IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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microfiches. 


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n 


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D 
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la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

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et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

NARRATIVE 


OF  A  SECOITD  EXPEDITIOBT 


TO  THE  SHORES-  OF 


TJiPtE   POiiAH   SEA, 


^. 


riiv 


Iff  THE  YEARS 

1825, 1836,  AND  1837, 


CAPT.  R.Ij[„  r.J^S,,  &C.  AND  COMlfAirbER  OP  THE  EXPEDITION 


INCLUDING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF  ^ii^  f  ftOfiga^sS  QF  A 

d|:tachment  to  the  eastward, 
PY  JOHN  RICHARDSON,  M.D.,  F.R.S.,  F.L.S.,  &c. 

■U*<'BON   AND   NATURALIST  TO  tJajS  EXPEOItlOM. 


PUBLISHED  By  AUTHORITY  OP  THE  RIGHT  HONOURABLE  THE. 
SECRETARY  OF  STATE  FOR  COLONIAL  AFFAIRS. 


■■  ■  I 

-;1 


r 


i 


,<;:« 


p[iila())frl|ifito: 


CAREY,  LEA,  AND  CAREY— CHESNVT  STREET. 

■OLD    IN    NEW    YORK   BY   G.   AND  C.  CARVILL — IN   BOSTON   By  MUNROE 

ANP  FRANCn. 


i@:isS» 


:  "•»>'■ 


W.  PILKINGTON  &  CO.  PRINTERS. 


I 


i 


), 


V    -r 


■  f        1 


,  TO 

^    ^         THE   RIGHT   HONOURABLE 

TJife  EARL  BAT^RST,  K.  G., 

LORD  PBK8IDKNT  0»  HIB  »lJE8TYVc0VNCa, 
,&C.&C.&C. 


THE  FOLLOWING 


NARRATIVE  OF  A  SECOND  JOtlltNEY  OF  DISCOVERY  ALONG 
THE  NORTHERN  CO^St  OF  Al^ERICA, 

UN6eRTA^BN  By  order  and  under,  the  AUSPfCES 

,     ; '•  .         OP  his  lo'rdship,  , 


A-  ■   <■ 


IS,  Bit  permission,  inscribed   ' 

with  great  respect  and  GRATITUDE, 


BY 


THE  AUTHOR. 


M 


4 


CONTENTS. 


itroductory  Chapter        -        .        .        ..        .        _        _  "^J^ 

>fficial  Instructions  -        -        .        .        . 


e 

IX 

xix 


CHAPTER  I. 

foin  the  Boats  in  the  Methye  River— Cross  the  Long  Portage— Ar- 
rival at  Fort  Chipewyan— Departure  from  thence  with  the  whole 
party  lor  Mackenzie  River— Arrangements  at  Fort  Norman— 
DOTcent  to  the  Sea— Return  to  the  Winter  Quarters  at  Great  Bear 


^m 


23 


CHAPTER  n. 

rransactions  at  Fort  Franklin,  1825-6 


61 


CHAPTER  m. 

Voyage  to  the  Sea— Part  from  the  Eastern  Detachment  at  Point  Se- 
paration—Reach the  Mouth  of  the  Mackenzie— Interview  and 
Contest  with  the  Esquimaux— Detained  by  Ice— Meet  friendly 
Esquimaux— Point  Sabine        -        .        .        ,        .        .        /    37 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Babbage  River— Meet  Natives  at  Herschel  Island— Their  Trade  with 
the  Russians,  through  the  Western  Esquimaux— Ascend  Mount 
Conybearo--Boundary  of  the  British  Dominions  on  this  Coast- 
Delayed  at  Icy  Reef-Barter  Island-Detention  at  Foggy  Island 
— Return  Reef— Limit  of  ontt«r«H  v«„- J,-  **■' 


114 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Commence  Return  to  the  Mackenzie— Delayed  again  at  Toggy  bland 
— Ice  packed  on  the  Roofs  near  Beaufort  Bay,  and  on  the  Coaat 
about  Clarence  River — Pass  tlio  Channels  near  Horschol  Island  in 
a  Gale  and  Fog — A  sudden  Gale— Escape  an  Attack  which  the 
Mountain  Indians  meditated — Enter  the  Mackenzie — Peel  River 
—Arrival  at  Fort  Franklin 


141 


Brief 
1 
1 
< 
I 
t 


Dr.  Richardson's  Narrative  of  the  Proceedings  of  the  Eastern 
Detachment  of  the  Expedition.  ^ 


CHAPTER  I. 

Leave  Point  Separation,  and  descend  the  Eastern  Channel  of  the  Mac- 
kenzie—Arrive  at  Sacred  Island — Esquimaux  Graves— Interview 
with  the  Natives ;  their  thievish  disposition— Attempt  to  gain  pos- 
session of  the  Union— Heavy  Gale— Find  shelter  in  Refuge  Cove 
— Low  Coast— Mirage— Stojiped  by  Ico  at  Point  Toker— Roach 
the  Sea  -----....  162 


Topoj 


CHAPTER  H. 

Detention  by  wind— Visited  by  the  Esquimaux— Cross  a  large  Stream 
of  Fresh  Water— Winter  Houses  on  Atkinson  Island— Gale  of 
Wind  and  Fog— Run  into  Browell  Cove— Double  Capo  Dalhou- 
sie— Liverpool  Bay  and  Esquimaux  Lake — Icy  Cliffs — Meet  ano- 
ther party  of  Esquimaux — Cape  Bathurst     ...        -        180 


An  { 
being  I 
a  sepai 
ardson 
HisMi 


CHAPTER  IH. 

Double  Cape  Bathurst— Whales— Bituminous-shale  Cliffs  on  Fire- 
Enter  Franklin  Bay— Heavy  Gale— Peninsula  of  Cape  Parry- 
Perforated  Rock— Detention  at  Cape  Lyon  by  Wind— Force  of  an 
Esquimaux  Arrow— Meet  with  heavy  Ice— Pass  Union  and  Dol- 
phin Straits — Double  Cape  Krusenstern,  and  enter  George  the 
Fourth's  Coronation  Gulph— Reach  the  Coppermine  River— Re- 
marks—Meteorological  Table 


193 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Ascend  the  Coppermine  River— Abandon  the  Boats  and  Stores— Com- 
mence the  Land  Journey— Cross  the  Copper  Mountains  and 
Height  of  Land— Meet  Indians  who  bring  Provisions— Arrive  at 
Great  Bear  Lake— Detained  by  want  of  a  Boat— Send  out  Hunt- 
ers—Arrival of  Beaulieu— Collect  the  Party,  and  proceed  to  Fort 
Franklin— Conclusion 


222 


land 
oast 
d  in 
the 
iver 


141 


Eastern 


[ac- 
iow 

)0S- 

ovo 
ach 


CONTENTS. 


Captain  Franklin's  Narrative  resumed. 
CHAPTER  VI. 

Brief  Notices  of  the  Second  Winter  at  Boar  Lako-Traditions  of  the 
wJf;  Sri^r  ^°'*,F'anklin-Wintor  Journey  to  For?  cLpo! 
cS^S!^^  ♦"  ?■  ^^'A  P'^S'""  °^  improvement  in  the  Fur 
Countries— Set  out  m  Canoos  on  the  Voyage  Homeward— Join 

?v;    ArrYv'r  "^^  ^"7''-'-'^  Houso-M?.  f)rummo7d^'Vr?^ 
tivo— Arrival  m  Canada,  at  New  York,  and  London       - 


Vll 


238 


162 


am 
of 

no- 


180 


APPENDIX. 

Topographical  and  Geological  Notices,  by  Dr.  Richardson,  R.  N.  263 


an 
ol- 
he 
Le- 


193 


n- 
id 
at 

it- 
irt 


222 


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west 

of  St 

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publi 

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and  ( 

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dition 

minat 

My 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


tha"vea?'f8lf  dpSr^T"'  '"""'"e-  '"'vards  (ho  close  of 
uie  year  1 8i3,  determined  upon  another  attcmot  to  elfrrt  •, 

OctT-lT(^^^  '??  ""^'V"  ">«  AtLnt^Ld  Sic 
mandcr  of  l1,e  ?^'"'"  ^^"7'  't  '''S'''^'  distinguished  Com" 

wavsThan  onri  t      f  ""^'''  ^^  desirable  to  pursue  it  by  more 
ways  than  one;  I  therefore  ventured  to  Jay  before  His  Maip.<v'« 

of  irMacie'nztV"  ""  "yi''''""  -"'-"  "' thtSh 

3rmtt"iSri^?e:i"7'Gt:r'B'r;;;,^rtn'd"  r?:^^ 

direcfon,  from  the  Right  Honourable  E^  1  Bathur  t  „  IT' 
*e  necessary  preparations  for  the  equipmenro^  he  pTe 
mlSd"  "■"  '"•"•"'^  °f  """*  •  ""O'h'  honour  t^be^: 
My  much  valued  friend,  Dr.  Richardson,  oircrcd  his  services 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


^ 


as  Naturalist  and  Surgeon,  and  also  volunteered  to  undertake 
the  survey  of  the  coast  between  the  Mackenzie  and  Copper- 
mine Rivers,  while  I  should  be  occupied  in  endeavouring  to 
reach  Icy  Cape. 

Lieutenant  Bushnan,  who  had  served  under  Captains  Ross 
and  Parry  on  their  voyages  of  discovery,  was  also  appointed 
to  accompany  me  ;  but,  long  before  the  party  was  to  leave  Eng- 
land, I  had  to  lament  the  premature  death  of  that  excellent 
young  officer,  who  was  eminently  qualified  for  the  situation,  by 
his  skill  in  astronomical  observations,  surveying,  and  drawing. 
Many  naval  officers,  distinguished  for  their  talent  and  ability, 
were  desirous  of  filling  the  vacancy ;  but  my  friend  and  former 
companion,  Lieutenant  Back,  having  returned  from  the  West 
Indies,  the  appointment  was  offered  to  him,  and  accepted  with 
his  wonted  zeal. 

Mr.  E.  N.  Kendall,  Admiralty  Mate,  and  recently  assistant 
Surveyor  with  Captain  Lyon,  was  appointed  to  accompany 
Dr.  Richardson  in  nis  voyage  to  the  eastward,  and  to  do  the 
duty  of  an  Assistant-Surveyor  to  the  Expedition  at  large,  whilst 
it  continued  united.  Lastly,  Mr.  Thomas  Drummond,  of 
Forfar,  was  appointed  Assistant  Naturalist,  on  the  recom- 
mendation of  Professor  Hooker,  and  other  eminent  scientific 
men. 

A  residence  in  the  northern  parts  of  America,  where  the 
party  must  necessarily  depend  for  subsistence  on  the  daily 
supply  of  fish,  or  on  the  still  more  precarious  success  of  Indian 
hunters,  involves  many  duties  which  require  the  superinten- 
dence of  a  person  of  long  experience  in  the  management  of  the 
fisheries,  and  in  the  arrangement  of  the  Canadian  voyagers  and 
Indians :  we  had  many  opportunities,  during  the  former  voyage, 
of  being  acquainted  with  the  qualifications  of  Mr.  Peter  Warren 
Dease,  Chief  Trader  '^f  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for  these 
services,  and  I  therefore  procured  the  sanction  of  His  Majesty's 
Government  for  his  being  employed  on  the  Expedition. 

As  soon  as  I  had  authority  from  Earl  Bathurst,  I  entered 
into  a  correspondence  with  the  Governor  and  Directors  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  and  these  Gentlemen,  taking  the 
most  lively  interest  in  the  objects  of  the  Expedition,  promised 
their  utmost  support  to  it,  and  forthwith  sent  injunctions  to 
their  officers  in  the  Fur  Countries  to  provide  the  necessary 
depots  of  provision  at  the  places  which  I  pointed  out,  and  to 
give  every  other  aid  in  their  power.  I  also  wrote  to  the  dif- 
ferent Chief  Factors  and  Chief  Traders  of  the  Company,  who 
resided  on  the  route  of  the  Expedition,  explaining  its  objects, 
and  requesting  their  co-operation. 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER.  jj 

P'^^^can,  the  principal  article  of  provision  used  in  travel- 

ling,  being  made  during  the  winter  and  spring,  the  ordeSfor 

providing  the  extra  quantity  required  for  the  ExpedUion 

though  sent  out  from  England  b^  the  earliest  conveyance' 

rn.M  ^^T''^!^  P'-ovision  posts  in  the  summer  oFm? 

could  not  be  put  mto  effect  sooner  than  the  spring  of  1 825  •' 

hence,  .t  was  not  proper  that  the  main  body  of  the  ExpedS 

hould  reach  the  Ar  Countries  before  the  latter  period    Some 

stores  were  forwarded  from  England,  by  way  of  Sew  York^n 

inarch  1824,  under  charge  of  Mr.  RobertyVfca,SfTr^^^^^^^^^ 

for  the  purpose  of  relieving  the  Expedition  as  much  as  pos-' 

hfZr^hhrol'^^^^^ 
at  rL^f  R    "?  T"'''^^'  ^"^  ""^^^^  '*«  intended  winter-quarters 

able  r^cept^on  atlS^ ,"'"  -« to  provide  for  its  more  ^ZZt- 
aoie  reception  at  that  place.  These  stores,  with  the  addition 
of  other  articles  obta  ned  in  Canada,  sufficed  to  load  three  nor^h 

bX'S'V?cl.  t^^^^^        ''^'^''' '  ^"^  '"^^y  -ere  MvereS 

rTolf;,  1     c  u-       •  J^^'  ^^*^e  was  instructed  to  support  his 

2     'and'  etlTin^h"''''^^^^^'^^''"""^*'^^--*^^^^^^^ 

I  nL      'j      ^  '"  ^^^  'P""S  °f  *825,  to  proceed  to  Great  Bear 

lectin.  Great  RpT;  T  i,  ^^  ^'^'^  ^"'''«''''>^  '^""^'^  ^^^^^  >«  se- 
S^bvriw?  ?''^  f .^'Y  ^'"*^''  »-esidence,  I  wa^  influ- 
enced  by  the  information  I  had  obtained  of  its  beine  the  ohrP 

whJr.  .  '  t""'^'^  ^^  '^'  Mackenzie,  known  (T^.etradcps 
;'ro?so1ate%7t^:'  ""''''  ^^"''^  '-'  P-"-^  ^-  ^h-;: 
Three  light  boats,  which  I  shall  soon  more  particular] v  d'^ 
scnbe,  were  also  sent  out  to  York  Factory,  ^rjlei  824  in 
the  annua  Hudson's  Bay  ship,  together  with  aSe  suLv 

intir  reaching  Cumberland  House,  on  the  Saskatchawan  River 

^ga toToS  \:t  Tt^  '""-^^^^"^^  -  soonrthe":: 
v«gduon  opened  m  the  following  spr  ne,  that  thev  miahf  h«  o= 

advanta^P  nf  „r.„  r  "^^^/ofK  and  Canada,  wonid  have  the 

d;r»Vt„j  .  '    ""'  '"'^^'"'  '°  expedite  their  proercs's  1 

sa  V.5        'f«^""»e'  (canots  de  mattre,)  withEeces 

h'nTaTdTpt  :?'r1r"H''' ""  "^P"*^"  at  knetangSiS  , 
awa?to     S '^L'tfA""™"'  •»  "'«  »."tum„  of '',824,  to 


await  our  arrival  in  fho  fnli^,,,:.,^ 


spring ;  having  been  inform- 


XII 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


ed  that,  in  ordinary  seasons,  we  should,  by  commencing  our 
voyage  at  that  place,  arrive  in  the  north-west  country  ten 
days  earlier  than  by  the  usual  way  of  proceeding  up  the  Uta- 
was  River  from  Montreal. 

Tho  return  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  ship  towards  the  close  of 
the  year  1824,  brought  me  satisfactory  intelligence  of  the  pro- 
gress of  the  above-mentioned  parties,  together  with  the  most 
pleasing  assurances  from  the  Gentlemen  of  the  Company  to 
whom  I  had  written,  of  their  zeal  in  our  cause  ;  and  here  I 
must  express  the  deep  sense  I  have  of  the  kindness  of  the  late 
Honourable  William  M'Gillivray,  of  Montreal,  whose  experi- 
ence enabled  him  to  give  me  many  valuable  suggestions  re- 
lating to  the  clothing  and  subsistence  of  the  party,  and  to  the 
supplies  proper  for  the  Indians. 

In  connexion  with  the  above  sketch  of  the  preparatory  steps 
taken  in  the  course  of  the  year  1 824,  it  may  be  proper  to  give, 
in  this  place,  a  short  account  of  the  general  equipments  of  the 
Expedition. 

And  first,  with  regard  to  the  vessels  intended  for  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Arctic  Sea :  birch-bark  canoes,  uniting  lightness  and 
facility  of  repair  with  speed,  are  certainly  well  adapted  for  na- 
vigating the  rivers  of  Americ"  but  they  are  much  too  slight  to 
bear  the  concussion  of  waves  in  a  rough  sea,  and  they  are  still 
less  fitted,  from  the  tenderness  of  the  bark,  for  coming  in  con- 
tact with  ice.  I  therefore  requested  of  the  Lords  Commission- 
ers of  the  Admiralty  that  three  boat?  might  be  constructed 
under  my  superintendenc3 ;  and  they  v/ere  immediately  ordered 
and  promptly  finished  under  the  directions  of  the  Commis- 
sioners of  the  Navy.     To  fit  them  for  the  ascent  and  descent 
of  the  many  rapids  between  York  Factory  and  Mackenzie  Ri- 
ver;  and  to  render  their  transport  over  the  numerous  portages 
more  easy,  it  was  necessary  to  have  them  as  small,  and  of  as 
light  a  construction  as  possible ;  and,  in  fact,  as  much  like  a 
north  canoe  as  was  consistent  with  the  stability  and  capacity 
required  for  their  voyage  at  sea.     They  were  built  of  maho- 
gany, with  timbers  of  ash,  both  ends  exactly  alike,  and  fitted 
to  be  steered  cither  with  a  sweep-oar  or  a  rudder.  The  largest, 
tvvenlj-six  feet  long,  and  five  {ect  four  inches   broad,  was 
adapted  for  six  rowers,  a  steersman,  and  an  officer ;  it  could 
be  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  six  men,  and  was  found,  on  trial, 
to  be  capable  of  carrying  three  tons  weight  in  addition  to  the 
crew.     The  two  others  were  each  twenty-four  feet  long,  four 
feet  ten  inches  broad,  and  were  capable  of  receiving  a  crew  of 


fivi 


men,  a  steersman,  and  an  oflicer,  wilh   an   additioiiul 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER.  xiii 

weight  of  two  and  a  half  tons.     The  greatest  care  was  paid  to 
vZ  '°"?^"^t,on  by  Mr.  Cow,  boat-builder  of  Woolwich 

1  r^  ?  Vk      •'  ^'l^^l  undertook  to  report  their  progress  -and 

When  the  boats  were  finished,  they  were  tried  at  Woolwirh 
in  he  presence  of  many  naval  and  military  officers,  as  to  the^ 

mytl  lil^c^-  -rfrf  paddling,  a'nd  found  to  answe 
luiiy  tne  expectations  that  had  been  formed  of  them     At  th«» 
same  time  we  tried  another  little  vessel  belong  ng  to  the  Ex 
pedition,  named  the  Walnut-Shell,  the  invention  aid  construe-' 

o?ih/^''^'V  ^-^^  *°  "^y  ^^'^»d  Lieutenant-Colonel  Pas  ey 
?n?A  ^ 7^^  Engmeers.     Its  length  was  nine  feet  its  breadth 
four  feet  four  mches,  and  it  was  framed  of  well-sea  oned  ash 
fastened  with  thongs,  covered  with  Mr.  Mackintosh'  prepared 

TalStaTw  ^^^urr'^V'^  walnut-stllf Xn  e 
S  to  niZ*«  ^''^'^Y  °"  ^  ^Jghty-five  pounds,  could,  when 
noWo  !r  ?  •^''  ^^  "^^^  "P  *"  fi^^  «f  six  parcels,  and  vvas  ca- 

.ecure  was  this  httle  vessel,  that  several  ladies,  who  had  hn 
noured  the  trial  of  the  boats  with  their  presenTfearLs^^^^ 

frl'Kze"  'l^"'  n^^r/''^^  ^^^°-  *^^  Thames  n  I 
iresn  breeze.    It  was  intended  to  provide  against  a  similar  Hp 

ptt'o  "theT^  "^"^  ^^  '''''  -^^^^  pro?edfofotaTfo  ou" 

atiVbtkt?urdra\re'^^^    ^'^  ^h-sht,that 

«»,  4^u^  11  1  ,  ""^"  '^e  lountl  uselul  in  procuring  water-fowl 
on  the  small  lakes  to  which  the  boats  could  not  bITonveVed 
JVIl  'i°'- ^  ^^  astronomical  instruments  I  was  necelsarilv 
fplnf  \^^^''  portability.  Our  stock  consisted  of  two  3 
sextants,  two  artificial  horizons,  two  altitude  ins trumenra 
repeating  circle  for  lunar  observations,  and  a  sLlTtraSele 
scope  for  ascertaining  the  rates  of  the  chronometers     We  had 

dete  ZtolT^'f'^  ^-^  ^T'^'  P^""'  ^  P'^'"  needle  v'ry 
ICaSla^ziSJ"'  ^'^^^^^•"g  "^e  diurnal  variation;  two  o^f 
ficer  TheTt^^'  compasses,  and  a  pocket  compass  for  each  of- 
?wo  of  DanLT  f '"'"'  instruments  were  two  electrometers, 
iwo  01  Daniel  s  hygrometers,  Leslie's  photometer  and  hvcro 

Sr;'o7'dfer'"^p^V.'  '"^^^'"-»  -^  spirit  tiS: 

SaminPd  Jn '  V"^!f'     ^1^^  "^"-"^^^"^  instruments  were 

examined  m  concert  with  my  friend  Captain  Sabine  nrevio... 

obtTLd'^r  r  ^^T  L--'-  '  -^^  the  o\..orvations  'tl^Tl"" 
^ZlZ'Z:::i^:''''''''y^  ""^'  ^  P^"'^^  of  comparison 


XIV 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


The  stores  consisted  of  bedding  and  clothing,  including  two 
suiis  of  water-proof  dresses  for  each  person,  prepared  bj  Mr. 
Mackintosh,  of  Glasgow ;  our  guns  had  the  same  bore  with  the 
fowling-pieces,  supplied  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  the 
Indian  hunters,  that  is,  twenty-eight  balls  to  the  pound  ;  their 
locks  were  tempered  to  withstand  the  cold  of  the  winter ;  and 
a  broad  Indian  dagger,  which  could  also  be  used  as  a  knife,  was 
fitted  to  them,  like  a  bayonet.  Ammunition  of  the  best  quality 
was  provided  by  the  Ordnance,  the  powder  being  secured. in 
small  field  or  boat  magazines.  A  quantity  of  wheaten-flour,  ar- 
row-root, macaroni,  portable-soup,  chocolate,  essence  of  cof- 
fee, sugar,  and  tea,  calculated  to  last  two  years,  was  also  sup- 
plied, made  up  into  packages  of  eighty-five  pounds,  and  covered 
with  three  layers  of  prepared  waterproof  canvas,  of  which 
material  coverings  for  the  cai^o  of  each  boat  were  also  made. 
There  was  likewise  an  ample  stock  of  tobacco,  a  small  quan- 
tity of  wine  and  spirits,  marquees  and  tents  for  the  men  and 
officers,  some  books,  writing  and  drawing  paper,  a  considerable 
quantity  of  cartridge-paper,  to  be  used  in  preserving  specimens 
of  plants;  nets,  twine,  fishing-lines  and  hooks,  together  with 
many  articles  to  be  used  at  winter-quarters,  for  the  service  of 
the  post,  and  for  the  supply  of  our  Indian  hunters,  such  as 
cloth,  blankets,  shirts,  coloured  belts,  chiefs'  dresses,  combs, 
looking-glasses,  beads,  tapes,  gartering,  knives,  guns  and  dag- 
gers, hatchets,  awls,  gun-worms,  flints,  fire-steels,  files,  whip 
and  handrsaws,  ice-chisels  and  trenching-irons,  the  latter  to 
break  open  the  beaver  lodges.  • 

As  the  mode  of  travelling  through  the  Hudson's  Bay  territo- 
ries, with  all  its  difficulties  and  hazards,  is  now  well  known  to 
the  public,  1  think  it  better  to  give  in  this  Introductory  Chap- 
ter a  slight  outline  of  our  route  through  the  United  States, 
Upper  Canada,  and  Southern  part  of  the  Fur  Countries,  and 
to  commence  the  detailed  Narrative  of  the  proceedings  of  the 
Expedition  with  its  arrival  in  Methye  River,  where  the  officers 
joined  the  boats  that  had  been  sent  out  from  England  in  the 
preceding  year. 

On  the  16th  of  February,  1825, 1  embarked  with  Lieutenant 
Back,  Dr.  Richardson,  Mr.  Kendall,  Mr.  Drummond,  and  four 
marines,  at  Liverpool,  on  board  the  American  packet-ship, 
Columbia,  Captain  Lee ;  and,  on  quitting  the  pier,  we  were 
honoured  by  a  salute  of  three  animating  cheers,  from  a  crowdof 
the  principal  inhabitants,  who  had  assembled  to  witness  our 
departure.  The  passage  across  the  Atlantic  was  favourable  and 
pleafant,  and  our  reception  at  New  York  kind  in  the  extreme. 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


XV 


We  landed  at  that  city  on  the  1 5th  of  March,  and  our  bageage 
and  stores  were  instantly  passed  through  the  Custom-House 
without  inspection.  Cards  of  admission  to  the  Public  Scientific 
Institutions  were  forwarded  to  us  the  same  evening,  and  during 
our  stay  every  other  mark  of  attention  was  shown  by  the  civil 
r«lrr  ,?^'*^rities,  as  well  as  by  private  individuals,  indi- 
cat  ng  the  Iivo  y  interest  which  they  took  in  our  enterprise 

James  Buchanan,  Esq.,  the  British  Consul,  in  addition' to 
many  other  attentions,  kindly  undertook  to  accommodate  a 
journey  he  had  to  make  to  Upper  Canada,  so  as  to  accompany 
us  through  the  State  of  New  York.    After  a  stay  of  S 
days  m  the  city,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  the  rates  of  the 
chronometers,  and  for  making  some  other  observations  with 
Meyers  dipping  needle,  we  embarked  under  the  Consul's 
guidance,  in  the  ,.team-boat  Olive  Branch,  and  ascended  the 
Hudson  R.ver,  to  Albany,  where  we  experienced  similar  civili- 
ties  to  those  we  had  received  at  New  York.  Every  body  seem- 
ed to  desire  our  success,  and  a  fervent  prayer  for  our  preservation 
and  welfare  was  oflered  up  by  the  Reverend  Dr.  Christie,  the 
muus^r  of  the  church  that  we  attended.   The  Honourable  De 
Witt  Clinton,  the  Governor  of  the  State,  assured  me,  that  had 
we  not  been  accompanied  by  a  gentleman  so  conversant  in  the 
different  routes  and  modes  of  travelling  as  Mr.  Buchanan,  he 
would  have  sent  his  son  with  us,  or  would  himself  have  con- 
ducted  us  to  the  confines  of  the  State. 

From  Albany,  we  travelled  through  Utica,  Rochester,  and 
Geneva,  to  Leweston,  in  coaches,  with  more  or  less  rapiditv. 
accordingto  the  conditmnof  the  roads;  and,  crossing  the  rive; 
Niagara,  entered  Canada,  and  visited  the  Falls  so  justly  cele- 
brated as  the  first  in  the  world  for  grandeur.  We  n'ext  crossed 
■  Vtt      ^^""^ '?  *  '?'''"8  boat,  and  came  to  York  the  capital 
ot  Upper  Canada,  where  we  were  kindly  received  by  the  Lieu- 
tenant-Governor Sir  Perq^rine  Maitland,and  by  Colonel  Cock- 
burn  and  the  Commissioners  then  employed  on  an  innuirv 
respecting  the  value  of  the  Crown  Lands.  From  York  we  pass- 
ed on  to  Lake  Simcoe,  in  carts  and  other  conveyances,  halting 
for  a  night  at  the  hospitable  house  of  Mr.  Robinson  of  New- 
market.    We  crossed  Lake  Simcoe  in  canoes  and  boats,  and 
landed  near  the  upper  part  of  Kcmpenfeldt  Bay, but  not  without 
being  obliged  to  break  our  way  through  the  ice  for  a  short  dis- 
tance. A  journey  of  nine  miles,  performed  on  foot,  brought  us  to 
the  Kiver  Nattawassaga,  which  we  descended  in  a  boat :  and 
passing  tlirough  a  part  of  L.ke  Huron,  arrived  at  Penetanguis- 
hene.     At  this  place,  we  v, . .  -  hospitably  entertained  by  Lieu- 


XVI 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


I' 


tenant,  now  Captain  Douglass,  during  eight  days  that  wc  waited 
for  the  arrival  of  our  Canadian  voyagers  from  Montreal. 

We  left  Penetanguishene  on  St.  George's  day  (23d  April)  in 
the  two  large  canoes,  which  had  been  deposited  at  that  place 
in  the  preceding  autumn,  our  party,  by  the  accession  of  the 
voyagers,  now  amounted  to  thirty-three;  and  after  a  few  days 
detention  by  ice,  and  bad  weather,  we  reached  Sault  de  St.  Ma- 
rie on  the  1st  of  May,  being  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  earlier  than 
the  oldest  resident  remembered  a  canoe  from  Canada  to  have 
arrived.  From  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie,  we  coasted  the  northern 
shore  of  Lake  Superior  to  Fort  William,  formerly  the  great 
depot  of  the  N.  W.  Company,  where  we  arrived  on  the  10th  of 
May.  We  now  exchanged  our  two  canots  de  maitre  for  four 
small  north  canoes,  in  one  of  which,  more  lightly  laden.  Dr. 
Richardson  and  I  embarked,  with  the  view  of  proceeding  as 
rapidly  as  possible  to  arrange  supplies  of  provision  at  the  dif- 
ferent posts,  while  Lieutenant  Back  was  left  to  bring  up  the 
three  remaining  and  more  deeply  laden  canoes. 

We  proceeded  by  the  route  delineated  in  the  maps  through 
Ramy  Lake,  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Lake  Winipeg,  and  the 
Saskatchawan  River  to  Cumberland  House,  where  we  arrived 
on  the  15th  of  June,  and  learned  that  our  boats  had  left  that 
place  on  the  2d  of  the  same  month.  We  found  also  with  deep 
regret,  that  Thomas  Mathews,  the  principal  carpenter  who  had 
accompanied  the  boats  from  England,  had  had  the  misfortune  to 
break  his  leg  the  evening  before  their  departure.  But,  fortunate- 
ly, an  officer  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  then  present,  had 
sufficient  skill  to  set  it,  and  Dr.  Richardson  now  pronounced 
that  in  two  months  he  would  be  able  to  come  on  in  one  of  the 
Company's  canoes,  and  join  us  at  Bear  Lake,  which  he  was 
very  desirous  of  doing.  I  therefore  made  arrangements  to  this 
effect,  and  also  concerning  supplies  for  Mr.  Drummond  the 
Assistant  Naturalist,  who  was  to  be  employed,  during  our  stay 
in  the  north,  in  making  collections  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

Having  remained  one  night  at  Cumberland  House,  we  re- 
sumed our  voyage,  and  passing  through  Pine  Island  Lake, 
Beaver  Lake,  crossing  the  Frog  Portage,  and  ascending  the 
English  River,  with  its  dilatations,  named  Bear  Island,  Sandfly, 
Serpent,  Primeau,  and  Isle  a  la  Crosse  Lakes,  we  came  to  the 
post  situated  on,  and  named  from  the  latter  sheet  of  water, 
at  four  P.M.  on  the  25th  June.  In  the  course  of  this  voyage, 
we  met  the  Gentlemen  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  proceed- 
ing from  the  interior  with  various  brigades  of  canoes,  carrying 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER.  xyii 

the  returns  Of  trade  for  the  year  to  York  Factory,  and  I  had 
T...    /  the  «atf\<^t.on  of  hearing  frequent  news  of  the  pro 
gress  of  our  boats  but  that  the  deposits  of  provisions  I  had  re- 
quested,  and  the  other  arrangements  I  had  made,  were  all  punc 

at  Isle  a  la  Crosse,  mformed  us,  that  the  boats  had  gone  off  a 

ll7u  ?Xn  rT""'  ^°-^"''  ^''"^"''  ^'^^  t^^  ^^IditioS  of  a  bat! 
teau  laden  w>th  pemmican,  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Fraser  a 
clerk  of  the  Hudsons's  Bay  Company  ' 

•      I  waited  at  this  establishment  one  night  to  obtain  astrono- 
mical  observations  and  to  bespeak  an  additional  quant  ty  of 

oTv™eonih:2'^th  '"l"^  ^'*'^'^l^°"'^  donetUTesuL^d 
.Z  n^^f  T    ,    ^t*^'  ^"^'  P»ss'"g  through  Deep  River  Clear 
and  Buffalo  Lakes  overtook  the  boats  in  Methye  RWer  kt  un 
rise  on  the  29th  of  June.  ^^I'lyt:  ixiver,  at  sun- 

Having  brought  this  preliminary  sketch  up  to  the  date  at 
which  the  ensuing  Narrative  of  the  proceedings  of  he  Expedi 
tion  commences  I  turn  to  the  pleasing  duty  of  renderinrmv 
best  thanks  to  the  many  gentlemen  who  have  ass  sterme^'n 
forwarding  ,ts  progress.     To  the  Right  Honourab^  EarTfia 

Governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  Mr  &arrv 
the  Deputy-Governor,  as  well  as  every  MJmber  of  iis  cZ' 
mittee,  claim  my  most  sincere  thanks  for^eir  un  emUt?; 
endeavours  to  promote  the  welfare  of  thp  Fvn!Jr  t^^  F 
ts  whole  progrL;  and  I  feel  ti-uly^  o^^^^^^^ 
the  Governor  in  the  Fur  Countries  •  to  Mr  mTt  •  T^tv?' 
Haldane,  Mr.  M'Donald,  Mr  Ler  Mr  sL^  ^J  m'  ^^''• 
James  and  George  Keith    Chtcr    1  l^^'  ^'^^  Messrs. 

spirit  of  theirSc'^^  ';  2  e'^^er^tJidlt'  1%^""' 
provisions  and  stores  for 'the  use  o7  my  Zy  and  n  fo"r^ 
warding  all  our  sunnlip?      TK....^  "v  P'^'^y?  and  in  ior- 

requisite  in  this  place  necessarily  compels  me  to  refer  to  the 


XVIII 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


Narrative,  where  their  names,  and  the  services  they  rendered, 
are  mentioned. 

I  cannot,  however,  close  this  introductory  Chapter,  without 
expressing  the  deepest  obligation  to  those  kind  friends  and  ex- 
cellent officers  with  whom  I  had  the  happiness  of  being  asso- 
ciated, who  constantly  aided  me  by  their  most  cordial  co- 
operation, and  whose  best  efforts  were  devotedly  applied 
to  every  pursuit  which  could  be  interesting  to  science.  Nor 
can  1  omit  to  mention  the  gratitude  1  owe  to  each  of  the  sea- 
men, marines,  British  and  Canadian  voyagers  who  composed 
our  party  at  the  winter-quarters,  for  their  steady  obedience  and 
traly  good  conduct,  whether  in  the  days  of  relaxation  during 
the  winter,  or  in  the  more  arduous  exertions  of  our  summer 
occupations. 


OFFICIAL  INSTRUCTIONS. 


Sir, 


DoToning-street^  31s/  Jan.  1825. 


His  Majesty's  Government  having  decided  that  an  £x- 
nedition  should  be  set  forth,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the 
Northern  Coast  of  America,  between  the  Mouth  of  Mackenzie's 
River,  and  the  Strait  of  Behring;  and  confiding  in  your  zeal  and 
experience  for  the  due  execution  of  this  service,  I  have  recom- 
mended you  as  a  proper  person  to  be  charged  with  the  same. 
You  are,  therefore,  to  proceed  with  your  party  (a  list  of  whom 
is  annexed)  by  the  Packet  from  Liverpool  to  New  York,  and 
from  thence  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  Lake  Huron,  where 
the  stores  necessary  for  your  journey  have  already  been  sent. 
Enabarking  in  Canoes,  you  are  from  thence  to  follow  the  water 
communication  to  the  western  side  of  the  Great  Bear  Lake, 
where  you  are  to  establish  your  winter-quarters ;  and  having 
so  done,  your  first  care  should  be  to  endeavour  to  open  a 
friendly  communication  with  the  Esquimaux. 

xiarly  in  the  Spring  of  1 826,  you  are  to  proceed  down  the 
Mackenzie  River  with  all  the  necessary  stores  and  provisions, 
m  order  to  be  prepared  to  take  advantage  of  the  first  opening 
of  the  ice  on  the  Polar  Sea,  so  as  to  enable  you  to  prosecute 
your  voyage  along  the  coast  to  Icy  Cape,  round  which  you  are 
^.proceed  to  Kotzebue's  Inlet,  where  you  may  expect  to  find 
His  Majesty's  Ship  Blossom,  which  the  Lords  Commissioners 
of  the  Admiralty  will  order  to  proceed  to  that  rendezvous,  in 
the  Summer  of  1826.  But  if,  on  your  arrival  at  Icy  Cape,  or 
the  northern  point  of  Behring's  Strait,  you  should  be  of  opinion 
that  you  could,  with  safety,  return  the  same  season  to  the 
established  winter-quarters,  you  are  at  liberty  to  do  so,  instead 
of  proceeding  to  join  the  Blossom.    You  will,  therefore,  with- 


II 


OrnciAL  INSTRUCTIONS. 


out  loss  of  time,  settle  with  Captain  Beechey,  her  commander, 
such  a  plan  as  may  appear  to  you,  both,  best  adapted  for  en- 
suring your  meeting  together,  and  establish  a  code  of  signals, 
or  devise  such  other  means  as  may  tend  to  give  you  information, 
if  possible,  previous  to  your  reaching  the  longitude  of  Icy  Cape. 
On  your  arrival  at  the  mouth  of  Mackenzie  River,  you  are 
to  despatch  Dr.  Richardson  with  Mr.  Kendall  and  five  or  six 
men,  in  one  of  the  boats,  to  examine  the  intermediate  coast  be- 
tween the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Rivers ;  but  if  you 
should  find  that  the  stores  and  provisions  you  have  been  able 
to  accumulate  are  not  sufiicient  for  your  own  and  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson's party,  you  are,  in  that  case,  to  direct  Dr.  Richardson 
to  employ  himself  and  party  on  shore,  in  examining  the  coun- 
try contiguous  to  the  Mackenzie  River,  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
the  shores  of  the  Great  Bear  Lake,  the  Copper  Mountains,  and 
as  far  round  as  he  can  with  safety,  collecting  specimens  of  the 
animals,  plants,  and  minerals,  and  also  laying  in  a  stock  of 
provisions  sufficient  for  both  parties,  if,  by  any  unforeseen  ac- 
cident, you  should  find  yourself  compelled  to  return  without 
reaching  the  Blossom. 

If,  in  proceeding  westerly  towards  ley  Cape,  you  should 
make  but  slow  progress,  and  find  yourself  impeded  by  ice  or 
land  jutting  out  to  the  northward  farther  than  is  calculated 
upon,  or  from  accidents  to  the  boats,  or  any  other  unforeseen 
circumstance,  so  that  it  remains  doubtful  whether  you  will  be 
able  to  reach  the  neighbourhood  of  Kotzebue's  Inlet  the  same 
season,  vou  are  not  to  consider  yourself  authorized  to  risk 
yourself  and  party  to  the  chance  of  being  obliged  to  winter  on 
the  coast,  but  commence  your  return  about  the  15th  or  20th 
of  August  to  the  established  winter-quarters  on  Bear  Lake, 
unless  you  should  be  satisfied  that  yourself  and  party  could 
pass  the  winter  with  safety  among  the  Esquimaux,  and  that 
there  was  afforded  a  certainty  of  your  reaching  Behring's 
Strait  the  following  Season,  when  the  Blossom  will  again  pro- 
ceed to  the  appointed  rendezvous. 

In  the  event  of  your  reaching  Kotzebue's  Inlet,  the  first 
season,  Captain  Beechey  will  be  instructed  to  convey  you  and 
your  party  in  the  Blossom  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  or  Canton, 
as  may  seem  most  advisable  to  you,  from  whence  you  will  be 
able  to  take  a  passage  to  England  in  one  of  the  Company's 
Ships  or  Private  Traders ;  and  you  will  leave  such  instruc- 
tions with  Dr.  Richardson  for  his  guidance,  in  the  event  of 
your  being  able  to  accomplish  this  point,  as  you  may  deem  fit 
and  proper  for  his  return  to  England. 


OFFICIAL  INSTRUCTIO^S.  xx\ 

In  the  event  of  your  death,  or  any  accident  which  mav  ore 
vent  your  proceeding,  the  command  of  the  ExpeditSu!; 
necessarily  devolve  on  Lieutenant  Back,  who  is  to  follow  thesl 
Instructions ;  but  he  is  not  to  alter  any  arrangement  with  re 
^'.H  *?,^';  Ri^^J^ardson's  proceedings  whiclfy^mry  have 
settled  for  him  to  pursue,  the  principal  object  oVOr  nfchard 
son's  accompanying  you.  being  that  of  completing,  a  far  as 
can  be  done,  our  knowledge  of  the  Natural  flistorf  of  North 
America   Lieutenant  Back  will,  therefore,  in  the  even  aW 
mentioned,  act  in  concert  with  Dr.  Richardson,  but  not  direct 
him  and  his  party  from  any  plan  of  operations  whch  he  and 
you  may  previously  have  settled. 

You  will  take  care  to  inform  me  from  time  to  time  as  on- 
KTn'fh  "^#^  'T'^  '^  y^""-  proceedings,  and  thTprogre? 
hTrebrel^^fteT''*'^"'  "'*'  '''  '''^^'^'  «^  .vhich%u^%' 
I  have  the  honour  to  be, 
Sir, 
Your  most  obedient  Servant, 
To  Captain  Franklin,  /?. JV.,  BATHURST. 

4^C.  ire.  ire. 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


OF 


THE  POLAR  SEA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Join  the  boats  in  the  Mcthye  River — Cross  the  Long  Portage — Arrival  to 
Fort  Chipowyan — Departure  from  thence  with  the  whole  party  for  Mac- 
kenzie River — Arrangements  at  Fort  Norman — Descent  to  the  Sea — Re- 
turn to  the  Winter  Quarters  at  Great  Bear  Lake. 

The  boats  of  the  Expedition  had  advanced  from  Hudson's 
Bay  into  the  interior,  twelve  hundred  miles,  before  they  were 
joined  by  the  ofRcere ;  whilst  the  latter,  from  taking  a  more 
circuitous  route  by  New  York  and  Canada,  as  shown  in  the 
introductory  chapter,  travelled  two  thousand  and  eight  hun- 
dred miles,  to  reach  the  same  point. 

This  junction  took  place  early  in  the  morning 
of  the  20th  of  June,  1825,  in  the  Methye  River,     ^"^^  ^^' 
latitude  56°  10'  N.,  longitude  108°  55'  W.,  which  is  almost  at 
the  head  of  the  waters  that  flow  from  the  north  into  Hudson's 
Bay. 

In  no  part  of  the  journey  was  the  presence  of  the  officers 
more  requisite  to  animate  and  encourage  the  crews,  because 
the  river  itself,  beside  being  obstructed  by  three  impassable 
rnnids,  is  usually  so  shallow,  through  its  whole  course  of  forty 
miles,  as  scarcely  to  admit  of  a  flat-bottomed  bateau  float- 
ing with  half  its  cargo,  much  less  our  boats,  which  drew, 
when  loaded,  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches.  This  river 
and  its  impediments  being  surmounted,  the  Methye  Portage, 
ten  miles  and  three  quarters  long,  was  at  no  great  distance, 
which  i)  always  held  up  to  the  inexperienced  voyager  as 
tiie  most  laborious  part  of  the  journey.     But  whatever  ap- 


<A 


34 


SECO^fD  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


prehensions  the  men  might  have  entertained  on  this  subject, 
seemed  to  vanish  on  our  landing  amongst  them  ;  and  Dr.  Ri- 
chardson and  myself  were  received  by  all  with  cheerful,  de- 
hghted  countenances,  and  bynone  more  warmly  than  by  our 
excellent  friend  and  former  interpreter  Augustus  the  Esqui- 
maux, and  Ooligbuck,  whom  he  had  brought  from  Churchill, 
as  his  companion.  A  breakfast  was  quickly  prepared  by  Mr.' 
Fraser,  a  clerk  of  the  Hudson's  Bay-Company,  under  whose 
charge  the  boats  had  been,  since  their  departure  from  Cumber- 
land House ;  and  I  then  inspected  the  boats  and  stores,  which  I 
was  rf^joiced  to  find  were  in  good  order.  We  had  brought 
letters  from  the  relatives  of  several  of  the  party,  and  another 
hour  was  allowed  to  read  them. 

At  ten  A.M.  we  began  to  ascend  the  stream,  but  very  soon 
found  that  it  was  necessary  for  the  whole  party  to  walk  in  the 
water,  and  drag  the  boats  through  the  mud.  Nor  could  we 
long  advance  even  by  this  mode,  but  were  compelled  either  to 
carry  some  of  the  cargo  along  the  shore,  where  walking  was  at 
all  practicable,  or  else  to  take  half  the  lading  in  a  boat  to  a 
part  where  the  river  was  deeper,  and  then  return  for  the  re- 
mamder.  From  thus  travelling  the  distance  twice  over,  it  was 
the  fifth  day  before  we  reached  the  lake  from  whence  its  wa- 
ters flow. 

Thursday,  30       ^"  ^^^  evening  of  the  30th  of  June,  we  witness- 
'       ed  one  of  those  violent  but  momentary  gusts  of 
wmd  which  occur  not  unfiequenlly  in  the  spring  and  autumn, 
and  which  prove  so  destructive  to  the  forests  in  this  country. 
It  was  preceded  by  calm  and  very  sultry  weather,  with  loud 
thunder  and  vivid  lightning.      In  an  instant  the  tents  were 
overthrown,  and  even  very  large  trees  were  bent  by  its  force 
into  a  horizontal  position  ;   indeed,  for  a  few  seconds,  the 
scene  around  us  appeared  one  of  almost  entire  devastation. 
VVhen  the  violence  of  the  squall  was  past,  we  had  great  rea- 
son to  be  pleased  at  its  occurrence,  for  the  strong   steady 
breeze  and   heavy   rain   that  succeeded,  carried  away  the 
myriads  of  musquitoes  by  which  we  had  been  tormented  the 
whole  day. 

Monday,  4.  Having  crossed  the  Methye  Lake,  we  arrived  at 

the  portage  of  that  name.  Here  it  was  necessary 
to  make  an  equal  division  of  the  cargoes,  and  to  devise  means 
for  the  conveyance  of  the  boats.  The  packages  amounted  to 
one  hundred  and  sixteen,  weighing  from  seventy  to  ninety 
pounds  each,  exclusive  of  the  three  boats  and  the  men's  per- 
sonal luggage ;  and  there  were  nineteen  men  of  the  boats' 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


25 


crews  two  Canadians,  and  two  boys,  to  carry  these  burdens. 
At  hrst  the  packages  were  equally  distributed  among  this  party: 
but  several  of  the  men,  who  had  been  reduced  bl  their  pre- 

viousexertions,becamelame:amongthesewerethe  Esquimaux, 
and  we  were,  therefore,  compelled  to  make  other  arrange' 
ments,  and  ultimately  to  employ  the  crew  of  my  canoe,  though 
the  great  fatigue  they  had  suffered  in  our  rapid  journey  from 

rTsenT^"'         '  ""^  '^^'"'''"'  ""^  '^^""S  them  for  the 

*roT''^  boats  were  the  heaviest  and  most  difficult  articles  to 

I^r!^7^'-  K?"'  °^  '?'  ^'"^'^  ^°^*«  ^^^«  ^^"-"ed  on  the  shoul- 
ders  of  eight  men  of  whom  Mr.  Fraser  undertook  to  be  one, 
as  an  example  to  the  rest.  Another  of  the  same  size  was  drag- 

frn.i;^  I'Z  ^'?u  *  ""^'^ '  ^""^  *^^  ^^^g^^t  ^a«  conveyed  on  a 
truck  made  for  the  purpose  on  the  spot,  to  which  service  the 
lame  were  attached. 

Each  day's  journey,  and  also  the  intermediate  stages,  were 
determined  by  the  phces  where  water  could  be  procured,  and 
our  mode  of  travelling  was  as  follows  :-Rising  at  three  a.m., 
the  men  carried  a  part  of  their  burden  to  the  first  stage,  and 
denoTp^  Tf  ^f.^'^^^r^^^^d  forwards  till  the  whole  was 
deposited,  rhey  then  slept  for  a  few  hours,  and  in  the  cool 
ot  the  evening  the  boats  were  brought  up.  By  these  means 
every  thing  was  ready  at  the  western^end  If  theVorSe  ear?? 

''l^^u'^u^l'  *';\^  ^}^  °^  ^''^y-  The  slight  injuries^^  f  ^ 
which  the  boats  had  received,  principally  from  ex  ^'^"'^^y'  "t^^- 
posure  to  the  sun,  were  soon  repaired ;  they  were  put  into  the 
water  to  tighten,  and  the  whole  party  were  allowed  to  rest 

With  reference  to  the  Methye  Portage  I  may  remark  that 
except  the  steep  hill  at  its  western  extremity,  the  road  is'  good 
and  tolerably  level,  and  it  appeared  to  us  that  much  fatigue 
and  sufFering  might  have  been  spared  by  using  trucks  Ac 
cordmgly  two  were  made  by  our  carpenters  at  Fort  Chipewy- 
an  m  1 827,  for  the  return  of  the  Expedition,  and  they  ansvS 
extremely  well.  I  mention  this  circumstance,  in  the  hope  that 
some  such  expedient  will  be  adopted  by  the  Traders  for  the 
relief  of  their  voyagers,  who  have  twice  in  every  year  to  pass 
over  this  ridge  of  hills.  ^  ^  ^ 

Being  now  in  a  fair  way  to  reach  the  Athabasca 
J^ake,  Lh.  Richardson  and  1  embarked  on  the  1 2th   '^^^^day,  isth, 
in  the  canoe,  to  proceed  to  Fort  Chipewyan,  for'  the  purpose 
of^p^reparing  the  gentleman  in  charge  for  the  receptLno7?he 


36 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


m 


By  noon  we  got  over  the  four  Portages  on  Clear- Water  river, 
and  descended,  vfhh  some  trouble,  the  series  of  rapids  that  fol- 
low them.  Once  below  these,  the  passage  to  the  lake  is  gene- 
rally considered  as  free  from  fatigue ;  but  we  did  not  find  it  so, 
for,  owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  the  men  had  to 
get  out  and  drag  the  canoe  in  several  places.  The  difference 
between  the  depth  of  water  now  and  in  other  years  at  the 
same  period,  was  attributed  to  the  snow  having  fallen  in  the 
preceding  autumn  before  the  frost  was  sufficiently  intense  to 
harden  the  ground,  and,  consequently,  much  of  the  moisture 
had  penetrated  the  earth,  which,  under  other  circumstances, 
would  have  remained  in  a  frozen  state,  for  the  supply  of  the 
river  at  the  spring  thaw. 

In  the  course  of  the  night  we  were  under  much  alarm  for 
one  of  our  men,  who  having  incautiously  lain  down  to  sleep 
under  a  wet  sail,  while  the  rain  v/as  pouring  heavily,  was  seiz- 
ed with  a  cramp  in  the  stomach,  and  violent  pain  in  the  head. 
flaving  been  brought  into  the  tent  and  covered  with  blankets, 
he  became  better  before  morning,  but  not  swfliciently  strong  to 
allow  of  our  setting  off  at  the  usual  hour.  We  entered  the  Elk, 
Wednesda  13th  ^^  Athabasca  River,  at  three  p.m.,  on  the  13th, 
ay,  o  .  ^^^  ^,^fere  Carried  swiftly  down  by  its  current  to 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  post  named  Berens  House,  where 
we  stayed  the  night.  Here  we  received  a  supply  of  dried  meat. 
Frida  I5tli  ^^^  Safely  arrived  in  the  Athabasca  Lake  on  the 
n  ay,  o  i.   j^^j^^  |^^  ^j^^  channel  of  the  "  Riviere  des  Eaux  re- 

mnees ;"  but  in  the  subsequent  traverse  between  Bustard  Island 
and  Fort  Chipewyan  the  canoe  was  in  danger  of  foundering  in  a 
sudden  gale.  Two  large  waves  broke  with  full  force  into  it, 
and  obliged  us  to  bear  away  and  steer  for  the  nearest  shore ; 
but  the  men  having  soon  rested,  and  being  now  sheltered  by 
islands,  we  pushed  on  to  Fort  Chipewyan.  Our  arrival  there 
caused  great  surprise  to  its  inmates,  when  they  learned  that 
we  had  come  from  England  to  that  advanced  post  so  early  in 
the  season,  being  only  two  days  later  than  the  time  at  which 
Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr  Hood  had  arrived  in  1819,  though 
they  passed  the  winter  at  Cumberland  House. 

The  stores  at  Fort  Chipewyan  being  well  furnished  with 
warm  clothing,  and  other  articles,  which  we  required  for  the 
use  of  the  men  and  Indians  at  winter-quarters,  I  availed  myself 
of  the  permission  which  the  chief  factor  of  this  department,  Mr. 
James  Keith,  had  given  me  to  complete  our  stock  of  cloth, 
blankets,  nets,  and  twine,  to  a  quantity  sufficient  for  two  years' 


July.] 


OF  TIIK  I'OLAK  SEA. 


27 


consumption.  A  supply  of  twine  was  indispensable,  because 
by  a  letter  fiom  Mr.  Dease,  I  had  learned  that  the  Meshes  of 
the  nets  made  in  England,  of  the  size  generally  required  for 
fishing  throughout  this  country,  were  too  large  for  the  smaller 
fish  that  frequent  that  part  of  Bear  Lake  where  our  house  was 
to  be  constructed.  Mr.  Campbell,  the  clerk  in  charge,  cheer- 
fully gave  nae  the  benefit  of  his  experience  in  making  out 
fists  of  such  things  as  we  were  likely  to  want,  and  in  assorting 
and  packing  them.  ^ 

The  boats  rejoined  on  the  18th,  and  the  crews 
were  allowed  the  following  day  to  recruit  them-  ^^ont^ay,  isth. 

L'^ilf  •  K^if  ^'^^i  "^  *"^'^"'  "^^""^^  '''^'y  opportunely  with  fresh 
meat,  which  is  always  an  agreeable  change  to  the  voyager,  who 
has  generally  to  live  or  dried  provision.   The  Indians,  as  well 

n^hf  JT^^.^''^-^^''^.'^"  °/  ^^^  ^^^^'  ^P^"t  the  greater  part 
of  the  day  by  the  side  of  our  boats,  admiring  their  whole  equip- 
mTn^f^r'^  especially  the  gay  figures  painted  on  them. 
Many  of  these  were  dilTerent  from  any  animals  or  representa- 
tions  they  had  seen  and,  judging  from  the  bursts  of  laughter, 
some  curious  remarks  were  made  on  them. 

It  being  necessary  that  I  should  await  the  ar- 
rival of  Lieutenant  Back's  canoes,  Dr.  Richard-  "^^ednesday,  20th. 
^n  undertook  to  proceed  with  the  boats  towards  Slave  Lake. 
1  heir  lading  was  now  mcreased  by  the  bales  already  mention- 
ed as  well  as  by  several  bags  of  pemmican,  which  Mr.  Keith 

tit'!    l^       ""Vir-  ^^^  ^'-evvs,  however,  were  reduced 
by  the  discharge  of  three  Englishmen,  at  their  own  desire, 

T  u  J";'?^^^^"?'''''^^'  ""^^"'"^^  to  t^e  fatigue  of  the  service 
1  had  the  happiness,  on  the  23rd,  of  welcoming 
my  friends.  Lieutenant  Back  and  Mr.  Kendall  on  ^''^"^^'^3'' 23d. 
their  arrival  with  three  canoes.  Their  journey  from  Fort 
VVilliam  had  been  expeditious,  notwithstanding  the  detention 
of  eighteen  days,  by  bad  weather,  on  the  road.  A  serious  mis- 
fortune  had  happened  at  the  very  cutset  of  the  journey, 
through  the  unskilfulness  of  one  of  the  bowmen,  in  allowing 
his  canoe  to  turn  round  and  get  before  the  current,  while  at- 
tempting  to  ascend  the  Barrier  Rapid,  by  which  it  was  driven 
against  a  stone  with  such  force,  as  to  be  overset  and  broken. 
1  he  stores  were  fortunately  saved,  though  completeiy  drench- 
ed ;  but  many  of  the  delicate  atmospherical  instruments  were 
broken.  Mr.  Kendall  was  despatched  to  Fort  William  for 
another  canoe  while  the  things  were  dryiii'^ 

On  a  subsequent  occasion,  in  the  Winip^'eg  River,  the  same 


38 


SECOND  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


man  placed  his  canoe  in  such  a  situation,  as  to  endanger  its 
being  hurried  down  a  steep  fall,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the 
coolness  of  a  man,  named  Lavalle,  who  jumped  into  the  water 
and  held  the  canoe,  while  the  rest  of  the  crew  arranged  them- 
selves so  as  to  drag  it  into  a  place  of  safety,  every  life  must  have 
been  sacrificed.  The  success,  indeed  the  safety  of  this  kind  of 
river  navigation,  among  currents  and  rapids,  depend  on  the  skill 
of  the  bowman ;  and  after  these  proofs  of  his  incapacity,  Lieu- 
tenant Back  very  properly  engaged  a  substitute  at  the  first  fort 
to  which  he  came. 

At  another  time,  in  the  Sturgeon-weir  River,  the  canoe  in 
which  Mr.  Kendall  was  embarked,  having  been  accidentally 
driven  before  the  current,  she  was  only  saved  from  destruction 
by  his  own  powerful  exertion  and  activity. 

These  short  details  will  convey  an  idea  of  the  anxiety  and 
trouble  these  officers  experienced  in  their  journey  to  Chipe- 
wyan. 

The  party  and  the  stores  having  now  passed  the  more  diffi- 
cult part  of  the  road,  I  discharged  as  many  of  the  Canadians 
as  could  be  spared,  and  furnished  them  with  a  canoe  to  take 
them  home.  Some  went  to  Montreal ;  and  they  were  the  first 
persons  who  had  ever  gone  from  that  place  to  Chipewyan, 
and  returned  in  the  same  season. 

Monday  25th  "^^^  greater  part  of  the  25th  was  employed  in 
^'  ■  obtaining  astronomical  observations,  the  results  of 
which,  we  were  delighted  to  find,  placed  Fort  Chipewyan 
within  a  few  seconds  of  longitude  of  the  position  in  which  it 
had  been  laid  dovirn  on  the  former  Expedition.  Our  present 
azimuth  compasses  showed  an  increase  in  variation,  since 
1820,  of  2°  16'  E.     The  dip  was  observed  81°  2G'  47". 

Fort  Chipewyan  was  this  summer  visited,  for  the  first  time, 
b^  a  large  flight  of  swallows,  resembling  the  house-martins  of 
England.  They  came  in  a  body  on  the  25th  of  June,  and  im- 
mediately began  to  construct  their  earthy  nests  under  the  ledge 
of  the  south-front  of  the  house.  Some  barn  or  forked-tail  swal- 
lows also  arrived  on  the  15th  of  June,  and  took  possession  of 
the  store-houses  and  garrets,  as  they  had  in  former  years  done. 
Some  of  the  young  of  the  last-mentioned  birds  were  sporting 
on  the  tops  of  the  houses  as  early  as  the  17th  of  July. 

At  sunset  we  embarked  in  four  canoes,  one  having  been  pro- 
cured here.  The  descent  to  Slave  Lake  occupied  four  days, 
and  was  unattended  with  any  circumstance  deserving  mention, 
except  that  two  of  the  canoes  were  broken  in  consequence  of 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


39 


JuIy.J 

the  guide  mistaking  the  proper  channel  in  a  rapid ;  fortunate- 
ly, these  bark  vessels  are  soon  repaired,  and  we  had  only  to 
regret  the  delay  the  accident  occasioned. 

We  halted  at  the  Salt  River  to  take  in  salt,  as  we  found,  by 
a  note  left  here.  Dr.  Richardson  had  done.  The  geese  were 
moulting  at  this  time,  and  unable  to  fly;  they  allbrded  us  much 
sport  in  their  chace,  and  an  excellent  supper  every  night. 

A  body  of  Indians  were  waiting  near  the  entrance  of  the 
lake  to  welcome  our  arrival ;  they  were  so  numerous,  that  we 
were  forced  to  omit  our  general  custom  of  giving  a  small  pre- 
sent to  each  native,  and  thus  incurred  the  charge  of  stinginess, 
which  the  loud  vociferations  they  raised  on  our  setting  sail, 
were  probably  meant  to  convey. 

At  six,  on  the  evening  of  the  29th,  we  reached 
Fort  Resolution,  the  only  establishment  now  at  F^'^'iy' 29th. 
Slave  Lake,  and  we  felt  happy  in  being  once  more  under  the 
roof  our  hospitable  friend,  Mr.  Robert  M'Vicar,  to  whom  I  am 
much  indebted  for  the  excellent  order  in  which  he  had  brought 
up  our  supplies  from  Canada  in  the  preceding  year.  Dr.  Ri- 
chardson, after  a  halt  of  two  days,  had  gone  forward  with  the 
boats. 

All  the  portages  on  the  road  to  Bear  Lake  being  now  pass- 
ed, the  Canadians  made  a  request,  that  we  would  allow  them 
to  commemorate  the  event  by  a  dance.  It  met  with  a  ready 
compliance ;  and  though  they  had  been  paddling  for  thirty-six 
out  of  the  thirty-nine  preceding  hours,  they  kept  up  their  fa- 
vourite amusement  until  daylight,  to  the  music  of  bagpipes 
relieved  occasionally  by  the  Jews'  harp.  ' 

We  rejoiced  to  find  at  this  post  our  worthy  old  Copper-In- 
dian friends,  Keskarrah  and  Humpy,  the  brother  of  Akaitcho, 
who  had  been  waiting  two  months  for  the  express  purpose  of 
seeing  us.  These  excellent  men  showed  that  their  gratification 
equalled  ours,  by  repeatedly  seizing  our  hands  and  pressing 
them  against  their  nearts,  and  exclaiming,  «  How  much  we 
regret  that  we  cannot  tell  what  we  feel  for  you  here!" 
Akaitcho  had  left  the  fort  about  two  months  on  a  hunting 
excursion,  hoping  to  return,  with  plenty  of  provision  for  our 
use,  by  the  middle  of  August,  which  was  as  early  as  he  thought 
we  should  arrive.  Keskarrah  confirmed  the  melancholy  re- 
port we  had  heard  in  the  more  southern  districts,  that  most  of 
the  hunters  who  had  been  in  our  service  at  Fort  Enterprise, 
had  been  treacherously  murdered,  with  many  others  of  the* 
tribe,  by  the  Dog-ribs,  with  which  nation  we  also  learned  the 
Copper-Indians  had  been  at  war,  since  the  year  of  our  depar- 


30 


SECOM)  JOURNKY  TO  TIIK  SHORES 


ture  from  them,  till  the  last  spring.     The  peace  had  been  ef- 
fected  through  the  mediation  of  Messrs.  Dease  and  M' Vicar, 
and  we  were  gratified  to  find  that  Akaitcho  and  his  tribe  had 
been  principally  induced  to  make  this  reconciliation,  by  a  de- 
sire that  no  impediment  might  be  placed  in  the  way  of  our 
present  expedition.  «  We  have  too  much  esteem,"  said  Akait- 
cho, "for  our  father,  and  for  the  service  in  which  he  is  about 
to  be  again  engaged,  to  impede  its  success  by  our  wars,  and, 
therefore,  they  shall  cease ;"  and  on  being  asked  by  Mr.  Dease 
whether  he  and  some  of  his  young  men  would  go  to  hunt  for 
the  party  at  our  winter  quarters,  he  replied,  "  Our  hearts  will 
be  with  them,  but  we  will  not  go  to  those  parts  where  the 
u^fJ^I  °"^  murdered  brethren  lie,  for  fear  our  bad  passions 
should  be  aroused  at  the  sight  of  their  graves,  and  that  we  should 
be  tempted  to  renew  the  war  by  the  recollection  of  the  manner 
of  their  death.  Let  the  Dog-ribs  who  live  in  the  neighbourhood 
ot  Bear  Lake  furnish  them  with  meat,  though  they  are  our 
enemies."     Such  sentiments  would  do  honour  to  any  state  of 
civilization,  and  show  that  the  most  refined  feelings  may  ani- 
mate the  most  untutored  people.     Happily  we  were  now  so 
circumstanced  as  to  be  able  to  reward  the  friendship  of  these 
good  men  by  allotting  from  our  stores  a  liberal  present  to  the 
principal  persons.  On  the  delivery  of  the  articles  to  Keskarrah 
and  Humpy,  I  desired  them  to  communicate  to  Akaitcho,  and 
the  whole  tribe,  the  necessity  of  their  strictly  adhering  to  the 
terms  of  peace,  and  assured  them  that  I  should  not  fail  to  urge 
the  same  obligations  on  the  Dog-ribs.     A  silver  royal  medal 
such  as  IS  given  to  the  Indian  chiefs  in  Upper  Canada,  was' 
hkewise  left  with  Mr.  M'Vicar,  to  be  presented  to  Akaitcho,  as 
a  further  mark  of  our  regard  for  his  former  services  and  pre- 
sent good  wishes.  * 

Sunday,  sist.  ,.  T*^^'  P^^^^^  ^^^^  detained  at  Fort  Resolution  until 
this  morning  by  a  strong  south-west  gale ;  and  even 
when  we  embarked,  the  wind  and  waves  were  still  hi'^h  but 
time  was  too  precious  to  allow  of  our  waiting  when  there  was  a 
prospect  of  making  any  advance.  As  our  future  course  inclined 
to  the  westward,  we  now  (juitted  the  track  of  the  former  jour- 
ney to  Fort  Enterprise,  along  which  wc  had  been  travellinff 
from  Lake  Winnipeg.  We  first  steered  for  the  Buffalo  River! 
and  then  along  the  south  shore  of  Slave  Lake,  obtained  the 
Aw  T.r  ^^°.l'  ^-  at  noon,  and  afterwards  the  longitude  114^ 
1 8^  W.  at  the  Isle  of  the  Dead.  The  islands  and  shores  of  this 
part  ot  the  lake  are  composed  of  horizontal  beds  of  limcilonc, 
containing  pitch  and  shells. 


'■■'fTn?^ 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


31 


A  small  party  of  Chipewyan  Indians,  with  their  principal 
chief,  joined  us  at  the  encampment,  from  whom  we  learned 
that  they  had  supplied  Dr.  Richardson  with  dried  meat  the 
preceding  noon,  at  Hay  River.  The  Chief  was  very  impor- 
tunate  for  rum,  but  I  steadily  adhered  to  the  determination  I 
had  formed  this  time,  on  my  entering  the  Fur  Country,  of  not 
giving  spirits  to  any  Indian.  A  share  of  our  supper  and  tea, 
and  some  tobacco,  were  offered  to  him,  and  accepted,  though 
with  a  bad  grace.  The  Fur  Company  ceased  the  following 
season  to  bring  any  rum  to  this  quarter,  and  1  learned  that  this 
man  was  one  of  the  few  natives  who  were  highly  displeased  at 
this  judicious  change.  ^   ^      ^ 

We  coasted  this  day  along  the  low  shore  of  the 
lake,  steering  from  point  to  point  to  avoid  the  sinu-  ^''"'^''7'  1st. 
osities  of  several  deep  bays,  and  passed  the  mouth  of  the  San- 
obse?vations    ^^^''''  "^^"'^  Positions  we  settled  by  astronomical 

On  the  2nd  we  came  to  the  narrow  part  be- 
tween the  Jig  Island  of  Mackenzie,  and  the  main  Tuesday,  2nd. 
fhf  M  ^f  P^.^'^^i^ed  tli^t  a  gentle  current  was  setting  towards 
the  Mackenzie  river.  The  water  in  this  strait  is  very  shallow 
and  also  in  many  places  near  the  south  shore,  though  we  know' 
eJout  n  '"'''T!  Expedition,  that  th^  depti  of  the  eaTt 
sev.nfv  f^f    '"'  '*  ^p^tf  ^ef'-om  the  land,  exceeds  sixty  and 

z:^z::^!\s^,  -''  ^^'"^^^ '-  ^^'^  p^^-  of  th"e  sS 

.h^^?l''''^  *i^''  t^'T'  ^^^  '^'°''^'  ''•^^^^^  ^«  as  to  form  a  small 
hallow  lake,  about  twenty-four  miles  long,  by  from  fou7to 
twelve  miles  broad,  near  the  north-west  end  of  whidi  we  en^ 
camped,  m  latitude  61°  15'N.,  longitude  117°  6' W  Th^s 
R^VpJ^^^Th^  considered  as  the  commencement  of  Mackenzie 
onlv  bnf  7nl  ^'r".  ''  u""'^  swampy,  and  nourishes  willows 
Sv  of  f      "^'^*  %  short  distance  from  the  beach,  grow 

amoni  fL       ?'"''"^;'  P'P'"'''  ^^P^"'  ^"^  ^'^ch  trees  f  and 
among  the  underwood,  numerous  shrubs  and  berry-bearing 

On  the  3rd  we  travelled  to  another  contrac- 
tion ot  the  river  about  one  mile  broad,  through  Wednesday,  3rd. 
which  the  current  sets  between  high  banks  with  such  force  as 
to  form  strong  eddies.     There  arl  likewise  in  this  pa  t  manv 
sandy  islands,  and  through  the  channels  betweeZhem  the 


33 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


current  rushed  with  no  less  rapidity  than  in  that  we  descended. 
For  distinction's  sake,  these  islands  have  been  named  the 
"Isles  of  the  Rapid:"  below  them  occurs  another  expansion, 
which  is  called  by  the  voyagers  "The  Little  Lake ;"  and 
Sandy  Point  at  its  northwest  end,  is  considered  by  them  as  the 
commencement  of  the  Mackenzie  River. 

When  abreast  of  this  point,  a  favouring  breeze  enabled  us 
to  use  the  sail  as  well  as  the  paddles,  and  with  the  assistance 
of  the  current  great  progress  was  made.  We  had  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  Horn  and  Rein-Deer  Mountains  as  we  passed 
along;  but,  until  we  were  some  way  below  the  rapids,  our 
view  was  very  limited,  owing  to  the  woods  being  on  firs  in 
almost  every  direction.  This  I  should  have  mentioned  to  have 
been  the  case  in  many  parts  between  Isle  a  la  Crosse  and  the 
Mackenzie.  The  cause  of  these  extensive  conflagrations  1 
could  not  learn  ;  some  attributed  them  to  voluntary  acts  of  the 
Indians,  and  others  to  their  negligence  in  leaving  their  fires 
burning. 

We  put  up  at  sunset  on  a  beach  of  gravel  under  a  well- 
wooded  bank  of  moderate  height,  and  the  party  regaled  them- 
selves with  raspberries  and  other  indigenous  fruits. 

Thursday  4th  "^^  ^^'^  P^^*'  *^°  ^'^"^  °"  ^^^  ^^^'  *^^  CanoeS 

^'      '     were  again  on  the  water,  and  being  driven  by 

sail  and  current,  made  good  way.  We  stopped  at  the  Trout 
River,  which  flows  in  from  the  southward,  and  ascertained  its 
longitude  119°  47'  W.  The  breadth  of  the  Mackenzie  is  here 
about  two  miles,  and  its  banks  are  composed  of  a  muddy  clay : 
the  stones  on  the  beach  mostly  limestone,  with  some  boulders 
of  primitive  rocks.  The  trees  are  of  the  kinds  we  had  seen 
north  of  the  Athabasca  Lake :  they  are  here  of  a  smaller  size. 
Five  miles  below  this  part,  the  Mackenzie  is  divided  into  seve- 
ral channels  by  islands,  and  the  current  runs  with  increased 
swiftness,  and  strong  eddies. 

The  latitude  61°"26'  30"  N.  was  obtained  at  noon;  it  was 
the  same  as  on  the  preceding  day ;  so  that  our  course,  in  the 
interval,  had  been  due  west. 

The  banks  now  were  higher,  and  for  the  next  forty  miles 
the  breadth  of  the  streaii  did  not  exceed  one  mile,  nor  was 
less  than  half  a  mile ;  its  course  inclined  more  to  the  north. 
We  passed  the  site  of  the  first  establishment  that  the  North- 
West  Company  had  made  in  these  parts,  which  was  erected 
by  Mr.  Livingstone,  one  of  the  partners,  who,  with  the  whole 
o(  the  crew  of  his  canoe,  except  one  individual,  were  massacred 


August.] 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


33 


ufem^  Esquimaux  on  the  first  attempt  to  open  a  trade  with 

At  three  p.m.  a  picturesque  view  opened  upon  us  of  a  dia- 
tant  range  of  mountains  running  east  and  west,  and  nearly  at 
right  angles  to  the  course  of  the  river.  The  current  being 
cons.derab  y  increased  by  the  contribution  of  some  stream! 
P?nl  I  i"  Pj^?f'  ^e.d^^^cended  very  swiftly.  Six  miles  below 
line  island,  there  is  a  strong  but  not  a  dangerous  rapid  :  and 
about  fifteen  n^les  farther  is  Fort  Simpson,  the  principal  dept 
arr  v^H  h  \^'^  ^'^'"P^"^^  ^"''  ^'^'«  department,  at  which  we 
nLht  Dr"^  vf-''^'  '"l^^r  "'"^P"^  «  ""^'y  ^^t'  comfortless 
preceding  daf"  "^""'^^^  ^""'  ^"^'^  ^°'''"^"  *^^ 

from^ForTp^^'I'T"*'  ^H^^  ^T^'^"^  ^"^  thirty-eight  miles 

enc^  ofthA  "^'^.^M  "'"  ^•"'^"'  '^  ^'*"^*^^  «t  the  conflu- 
ence  of  the  River  of  the  Mountains  and  the  Mackenzie     The 

former  ,s  the  channel  of  communication  with  ffur  no  t"notfar 

distant  from  the  Rocky  Mountain  Range,  from  vvhence  the 

Eblt  ^r  r^"^'  "^"^^  °^*'^^'^  P--^---"'  includTng  a  to! 
lerablesupply  of  potatoes,  which  have  been  recently  introduced 
from  the  southern  parts.     Mr.  Smith,  the  chief  flc^o   of  the 

PortTn^irnf  ^'''""'^"'^  ""'  F'J'  ^•'"P^^"'  ^«  *h-t  ^  had  the  op! 
IZ     l^f  arranging  with  him  as  to  supplies  of  provision  or 

Lak?     H.'^Ju^'^'Ar^^'  '^f  ^"•••"g  ■*«  ^^^'^^n^-  ^t  Bear 

made*  an^likewi^l  r^  '?1'^  *"  -T^^  ^"Sg^^^'*^"  *»^^t  ^a« 
made,  and  Jdcewise  furnished  me  with  a  letter  of  instruction  to 

We'pcTsts   "''  '''""^'  ''  ^'^  gentleman  in  charge  oflh: 

I  learned  from  Mr.  Smith  that,  as  yet,  a  few  only  of  the  In- 

dians  whohve  nearest  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  none  of  the 

ei^'at'hri'ow'  ''^r  'r'^''  '^  °"^  '"^^"^^^  visit,  the  trad- 
tlr  fl  !?  r  Ti  P°'*'  ^'''^.'"S  considered  that  it  would  be  bet. 
ter  to  defer  this  communication  until  we  should  arrive  in  the 
hZ'  h'  ^5^7^di!«ppointing  these  people,  which  migh  have 
been  attended  with  unpleasant  results.  '^ni  nave 

There  were  two  Canadians  here  belonging  to  the  Exnedi- 
t.on  whomMr.  Dease  had  sent  to  seive'as  guid^  to  Bear 

d^an'hunfe  f '"  "'"'  ^^7  '^"'^^''^'  '  "-  informed  thatln' 
dian  hunters  were  engaged,  and  the  necessary  buildings  in 

be  n"hort^o7:m ''"  r'  Z'  "^"^k*'^"'  ^'  ^'''  Simpsofhad 
Deen  short  ot  ammunition  during  the  summer  from  some  acci- 

b  e"d  o'S't^n""  ^'^^  ''  '"V^'^*  ^'''  ^^-^  had  beLn  ena. 
Died  to  lend  from  our  stores  a  barrel  of  powder,  and  a  ba<r  of 

balls  and  I  now  increased  the  loan,  so  ns^o  meet'  the  n'ob^b 

r.  » 


34 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


Friday,  5tli. 


demands  of  the  Indians,  until  the  Company's  supplies  should 
arrive,  when  they  would  return  to  Fort  Norman  the  whole  of 
what  we  had  lent.  Cloudy  weather  limited  our  astronomical 
observations  at  this  place  to  the  dip  of  the  needle,  which  was 
observed  81°  54'. 

We  quitted  the  fort  on  the  5th,  soon  after 
noon,  whence  the  river  preserving  nearly  a 
straight  course  for  fifteen  miles,  gradually  extends  itself  to 
nearly  two  miles  in  breadth :  in  its  channel  there  are  three 
islands.  At  two  p.m.  we  obtained  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  kept  them  in  view  until  we  encamped,  which 
was  early,  as  tlic  canoes  required  gumming.  The  outline  of 
the  mountains  was  very  peaked,  and  at  their  eastermost  part 
was  a  cone-shaped  hill,  liighcr  than  the  rest,  whose  summit  was 
veiled  by  clouds.  The  general  appearance  of  the  range  some- 
what reminded  me  of  the  east  end  of  Jamaica. 

Q.     ,      „,,  The  morning  of  (he  Gtli  was  beautifully  fine: 

fcsaturuay,  otli.  ,      ,      ,   ^,  ^    o,,,  ,  ,  •' 

we  embarked  at  2i,  30  a.m.,  and  by  seven  came 

within  six  or  seven  miles  of  the  mountain  range,  where  the 

river  suddenly  changes  its  course  from  VV.b.N.  to  north,  in 

longitude  123°  31'  W. 

A  distinct  stratification  was  perceptible  on  the  face  of  the 
nearest  mountain  :  on  one  side  of  a  nearly  perpendicular  ravine 
the  strata  dip  to  the  southward  at  an  angle  of  25°  ;  whilst  on  the 
other  they  are  nearly  horizontal.  There  was  a  large  accumu- 
lation of  debris  at  its  base  :  every  part  of  the  hill  was  destitute 
of  vegetation.  Its  altitude  was  guessed  at  one  thousand  two 
hundred  feet. 

At  noon,  in  latitude  62°  49'  N.,  we  saw  a  chain  of  moun- 
tains, on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river,  similar  in  their  outline 
and  general  character  to  those  hitherto  seen  only  on  the  op- 
posite bank.  Between  these  ranges  the  river  flowed  in  a  chan- 
nel two  miles  broad ;  but  as  we  advanced  we  receded  from 
those  on  the  western  side,  their  direction  being  W.N.W.  In 
the  brilliancy  of  the  sunshine,  the  surfaces  of  some  of  the  east- 
ern hills,  which  were  entirely  bare,  appeared  white  as  marble, 
and  for  some  time  we  fancied  them  to  be  covered  with  snow. 
By  four  p.m.  we  reached  the  Rocky  Island  mentioned  by  Mac- 
kenzie, where,  from  the  river  being  contracted,  the  current 
flowed  with  great  rapidity,  and  soon  brought  us  opposite  to  the 
remarkable  hill  close  by  the  river  side,  which  that  persevering 
traveller  ascended  in  July,  1789.  His  account  renders  a 
description  of  it  unnecessary.  It  is  composed  of  limestone, 
and  is  about  four  hundred  feet  high. 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


35 


August.] 

We  continued  a  N.b.W.  course  for  eight  miles,  and  en- 
camped  at  sunset,  having  travelled  this  day  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles.  A  small  supply  of  fresh  deer's  meat  was  ob- 
tained from  some  Dog-Rib  Indians.  Their  canoes  were  made 
of  the  bark  of  the  pine-tree,  sewn  at  the  ends  and  top  with  the 
fibrous  parts  of  the  root  of  that  tree,  leaving  only  a  space  suffi- 
cient for  the  legs  of  the  sitter. 

We  pursued'our  course  at  dawn  of  day,  and  at  „  , 
the  end  of  a  few  miles  came  to  a  more  winding  ^""'^'^3''  '^^^• 
part  of  the  river,  where  the  stream  is  interrupted  by  numerous 
sand  banks  and  shoals  which  we  had  some  trouble  to  get  round. 
Mr.  Kendall,  in  his  Journal,  remarks  of  this  part,  "  That  bub- 
bles of  air  continually  rose  to  the  surface  with  a  hissing  noise 
resembling  the  efFervesccnce  produced  by  pouring  water  on 
quick  hme."  ^    i  o 

We  arrived  at  Fort  Norman  at  ten,  a.m.,  distant  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty-six  miles  from  Fort  Simpson,  and  five  hundred 
and  seventy-four  from  Fort  Resolution. 

Being  now  only  four  days'  journev  from  Bear  Lake,  and 
there  remaining  yet  five  or  six  weeks  of  open  season,  I  resolved 
on  following  up  a  plan  of  a  voyage  to  the  sea,  which  I  had  che- 
rished ever  since  leaving  England,  without  imparting  it  to  my 
companions,  until  our  departure  from  Fort  Chipewyan,  because 
I  was  apprehensive  that  some  unforeseen  accident  might  occur 
in  the  course  of  the  very  intricate  and  dangerous  river  naviga- 
tion betvycen  Fort  William  and  the  Athabasca  Lake,  which 
might  delay  our  arrival  here  to  too  late  a  period  of  the  year 
It  was  arranged,  first,  that  I  should  go  down  to  the  sea,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  Kendall,  and  collect  whatever  information 
could  be  obtained,  either  from  actual  observation,  or  from  the 
intelligence  of  the  Loucheux  Indians,  or  the  Esquimaux,  re- 
spcctmg  the  general  state  of  the  ice  in  the  summer  and  autumn ; 
the  direction  of  the  coast,  east  and  west  of  the  Mackenzie ;  and 
whether  we  might  calculate  upon  any  supply  of  provision. 
Secondly,  Dr.  Richardson,  on  his  own  suggestion,  was  to  pro- 
ceed in  a  boat  along  the  northern  shore  of  Bear  Lake,  to  the 
part  where  it  approached  nearest  to  the  Coppermine  River, 
and  there  lix  upon  a  spot  to  which  he  might  bring  the  party 
the  following  year,  on  its  return  from  the  mouth  of  that  river. 
And,  thirdhj,  that  these  undertakings  might  not  interfere  with 
the  important  operations  necessary  for  the  comfortable  resi- 
dence and  subsistence  of  the  Expedition  during  the  following 
winter,  Lieutenant  Back  was  to  superintend  them  during  my 


36 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 

absence,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Deasc,  chief  trader  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  whose  suggestions,  relative  to  the 
proper  distribution  of  the  Indian  hunters,  and  the  station  of  the 
fishernien,  he  was  to  follow.  Accordingly,  Dr.  Richardson,  on 
his  quitting  this  place  two  days  previous  to  our  arrival,  had 
left  the  largest  of  the  boats,  the  Lion,  for  my  use  and  a  well- 
selected  crew  of  six  Englishmen,  and  Augustus  the  Esquimaux. 

Lieutenant  Back  was  directed  to  take  the  canoes  forward 
to  Bear  Lake,  laden  with  such  supplies  as  would  be  required 
for  the  winter,  and  was  further  instructed  to  furnish  Dr.  Ri- 
chardson with  one  of  the  boats,  and  a  good  crew.  The  ser- 
vices of  the  Canadians  who  had  brought  the  canoes  from  Pene- 
tanguishene,  being  no  longer  required,  I  desired  Lieutenant 
Back  to  discharge  them,  and  also  all  the  voyagers  of  Mr. 
Dease's  party  who  could  be  spared.  They  were  sent  in  canoes 
to  Slave  Lake,  where  I  had  arranged  with  Mr.  M'Vicar  for 
their  being  supplied  with  the  means  of  gaining  subsistence  by 
fishing,  during  the  winter;  and  the  following  spring,  they  were 
to  be  forwarded  to  Canada,  at  the  expense  of  Government, 
according  to  the  terms  of  their  agreement. 

Fort  Norman  being  situated  in  our  way  to  the  sea,  the  pem- 
mican  and  other  stores,  intended  for  the  voyage  along  the  coast 
next  season,  were  deposited  here,  by  permission  of  Mr.  Smith, 
under  the  care  of  Mr.  Brisbois,  the  clerk  in  charge.  Our  ob- 
servations place  this  establishment  in  latitude  64°  40'  30"  N 
and  longitude  124°  53'  22"  W.  *' 

Monday  8th  '^^^  ^^°^*^  matters  being  satisfactorily  settled, 
'  '  and  a  few  articles  packed  up  as  presents  to  the 
Indians  and  Esquimaux,  Mr.  Kendall  and  I  embarked  on  the 
8th„  at  noon,  taking,  in  addition  to  our  crew,  a  voyager,  who 
was  reported  to  be  able  to  guide  us  through  the  proper  chan- 
nels to  Fort  Good  Hope,  of  which,  however,  we  found  him 
altogether  ignorant.  We  were  accompanied  by  Lieutenant 
Back,  with  the  three  canoes,  each  manned  by  five  men.  The 
crews  of  the  canoes  imagining  they  could  easily  pass  our  Eng- 
lish boat,  were  much  surprised,  on  putting  it  to  the  proof, 
to  find  the  boat  take  and  maintain  the  lead,  both  under  sail 
and  with  oars. 

A  few  miles  above  the  Bear  Lake  River,  and  near  its  mouth, 
the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie  contain  much  wood  coal,  which 
was  on  fire  at  the  time  we  passed,  as  it  had  been  observed  to 
be  by  Mackenzie  in  his  voyage  to  the  sea.  Its  smell  was  very 
disagreeable.  On  a  subsequent  trial  of  this  coal  at  our  winter 
quarters,  we  found  that  it  emitted  little  heat,  and  was  unfit  for 


August.]  or  THE  POLAR  SEA.  $J 

the  blacksmith's  use.  The  banks  likewise  contain  layers  of  a 
kind  of  unctuous  mud,  similar,  perhaps,  to  that  found  on  the 
borders  of  the  Orinoco,  which  the  Indians,  in  this  neighbour- 
hood,  use  occasionally  as  food  during  seasons  of  famine,  and 
even,  at  other  times,  chew  as  an  amusement.  It  has  a  milky 
taste,  and  the  flavour  is  not  disagreeable.  We  used  it  for 
whitening  the  walls  of  our  dwellings  ;  for  which  purpose  it  is 
well  adapted.  '^ 

The  entrance  of  the  Bear  Lake  River  is  distinguished  by  a  / 
very  remarkable  mountain,  whose  summit  displays  a  variety 
of  msulated  peaks,  crowded  in  the  most  irregular  manner.  It 
IS  composed  of  limestone  ;  and  from  the  lower  clitrs,  which 
front  the  river,  a  dark,  bituminous  liquid  oozes  and  discolours 
the  rock.  There  are  likewise  two  streams  of  sulphureous 
water  that  flow  from  its  base  into  the  Mackenzie.  At  this 
place  we  parted  from  our  friend.  Lieutenant  Back,  who  enter- 
ed the  clear  and  beautiful  stream  that  flows  from  Bear  Lake, 
of  whose  pure  waters  we  had  also  the  benefit,  till  they  were 
overpowered  by  the  muddy  current  of  the  Mackenzie.  The  day 
was  fine,  the  wind  fair,  the  current  swift,  and  every  circum- 
stance concurred  to  put  the  party  in  high  glee.  There  was 
httle  m  the  scenery  to  attract  our  attention,  now  that  we  had 
become  familiar  with  the  general  appearance  of  the  Macken- 
zie,  and  we  passed  island  after  island,  of  the  same  alluvial 
mud,  without  further  regard  than  the  delineation  of  them  in 
the  survey  book.  At  length,  however,  a  most  picturesque  view 
ot  the  Rocky  Mountain  range  opened  before  us,  and  excited 
general  admiration,  and  we  had  also  some  portions  of  the 
mountain  range  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river,  in  view  for 
the  remainder  of  the  day's  journey.  The  outline  of  these 
mountains  is  very  irregular,  the  highest  parts  being  peaked 
niJJs.  The  general  direction  of  the  ranges  is  between  N  W 
and  N.W.b.W.  *     " 

Being  unwilling  to  lose  the  advantage  of  the  wind,  we  only 
put  ashore  to  sup,  and  after  two  hours'  delay,  resumed  our 
voyage  under  easy  sail.  When  the  sun  rose,  the  oars  were 
used  ;  and  then,  as  the  current  set  at  the  rate  of  two  miles  and 
a  half  per  hour,  the  boat  travelled  swiftly  down  the  stream. 
1  he  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  along  which  we  were  passing, 
IS  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high,  almost  perpendicJ- 
Jar,  and  is  composed  of  thin  strata  of  bituminous  shale. 
Amongst  the  fragments  of  shale  which  strewed  the  beach,  we 
lound  many  pieces  of  brown  wood-coal.     A  reach,  eighteen 


38 


SECOND  JOURXEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 

Tuesday  9th     "'"^^  '"  length,  followed.     It  is  bounded  on  both 
'      •   r,ides  by  high  cliffs  of  sand-stone.     We  landed  to 
breakfast,  and  to  obtain  the  longitude,  128°  23'  W. 

From  the  reach  here  described,  are  seen  two  hills,  named 
by  me  the  East  and  West  Mountains  of  the  rapid,  which  seem 
to  present  a  barrier  to  the  further  progress  of  the  stream  ;  but 
the  river,  bending  suddenly  between  them  to  the  north,  di- 
lates into  a  kind  of  basin,  and,  by  so  doing,  opens  by  far  the 
most  interesting  view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains   which  the 
Mackenzie  affords.  The  river,  too,  makes  its  nearest  approach 
to  those  mountains  at  this  spot,  and,  probably,  the  easiest  com- 
munication with  them  would  be  by  ascending  a  small  stream 
that  flows  in  here  on  the  western  side.     Here  too  are  found 
the  first  rapids  mentioned  by  Mackenzie,  which  continue  in 
succession  for  two  miles,  when  the  water  is  low.     The  centre 
of  the  oasin  is  occupied  by  low  sandy  islands ;  and  the  channel 
on  the  western  side  is  the  deepest.     The  beauty  of  this  scene 
furnished  employment  for  the  able  pencil  of  Lieutenant  Back, 
on  a  subsequent  occasion.     As  the  Mackenzie,  in  its  further 
descent,  continues  to  hold  a  northerly  course,  and  the  range  of 
mountains  runs  N.W.b.N.,  we  did  not  obtain  any  other  view 
of  them  till  we  approached  the  sea. 

At  one  P.M.  we  saw  a  party  of  Indians  encamped  on  the 
beach  of  a  small  stream,  whom  we  invited  to  come  off  to  us. 
They  hesitated  at  first,  being  doubtful  who  we  were,  from  our 
boat  bemg  different  in  shape  frcm  any  they  had  seen,  and 
carrying  two  sails ;  but  after  some  time  they  launched  their 
canoes,  and  brought  us  a  good  supply  of  fresh  deer's  meat. 
The  sight  of  our  boats  seemed  to  delight  them  as  much  as  the 
ammunition  and  tobacco  which  they  "received.  These  were 
Hare  Indians,  the  tribe  that  follows  next  to  the  Dog-Ribs,  in 
the  line  of  country  below  Bear  Lake  ;  and,  like  them,  they 
speak  a  dialect  of  the  Chipewyan  language.  We  admired  the 
shape  and  appearance  of  their  canoes,  which  were  larger  than 
those  used  by  the  Chipcwyans,  and  had  the  fore  part  covered 
with  bark,  to  fit  them  for  the  navigation  of  this  broad  river, 
where  the  waves  are  often  high. 

The  river  varied  from  two  to  four  miles  in  breadth,  and  its 
course  was  interrupted  by  several  small  islands  and  sand- 
banks. At  SIX  I'.M.  we  came  to  an  open  space,  bounded  by 
lofty  walls  of  sandstone.  In  this  expansion  are  found  the  se- 
cond rapids  of  Mackenzie  :  at  the  first  appearance  thev  seem 
dangerous,  but  are  not  so.    The  river  becomes  again  co'ntract- 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


39 


August.] 

ed,  and  rushes  with  great  force  for  the  space  of  seven  miles 
through  a  kind  of  defile,  varying  in  breadth  from  four  hundred 
to  eight  hundred  yards,  which  has  been  appropriately  named 
"  The  Ramparts,"  by  the  traders.     The  walls  of  this  defile  are 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  are  com- 
posed of  limestone,  containing  numerous  shells :  for  a  part  of 
the  way  the  stone  is  very  white,  and  in  the  rest  it  is  blue. 
Several  streams  of  water  were  running  over  the  summits  of 
the  chffs,  which  had  worn  the  stone,  in  some  places,  into  a 
turreted  shape  ;  while  the  heaps,  overthrown  by  its  action  at 
their  base,  resemble  mounds  for  defence.     To  these  appear- 
ances were  occasionally  added  cavernous  openings,  and  other 
hollow  parts,  not  unlike  the  arched  windows  or  gateways  of  a 
castellated  building,     I  could  not  help  fancying  what  delight  a 
visit  to  this  spot  would  afford  to  any  person  of  a  romantic 
turn,  especially  at  the  time  we  first  saw  it,  when  the  broad 
shadows  of  a  declining  sun  gave  effect  to  the  picture.     This 
is  a  place  of  resort  for  the  Hare  Indians  to  fish,  and  we  were 
visited  by  a  large  party  of  men  and  women  of  that  tribe,  who 
brc^ight  fish,  berries,  and  meat.     They  were  all  neatly  cloth- 
ed m  new  leathern  dresses,  highly  ornamented  with  beads  and 
porcupine  quills.    The  ^  aintings  of  animals  on  the  sides  of  our 
boats  were  very  attractive  to  them  ;  they  scanned  every  figure 
over  and  over,  bursting  into  laughter  whenever  they  recognis- 
ed any  of  the  animals.     We  encamped  near  a  small  river  be- 
low the  ramparts,  one  hundred  and  ninety-three  miles  from 
h  ort  Norman.     Two  young  Indians  followed  us  in  their  ca- 
noes, bringing  some  musk-rat  skins,  and  fish  for  sale.      We 
purchased  the  fish,  but  declined  taking  the  furs.     They  were 
so  pleased  with  their  reception,  that  they  passed  the  nicht  bv 
ourhre.  ^       J 

At  day-light  we  again  embarked,  and  de- 
scended the  river  pleasantly  and  swiftly  un-  Wednesday,  loth. 
der  sail,  having  the  benefit  of  a  strong  current,  especially  where 
It  was  narrowed  by  islands  or  sand-banks.  The  sides  of  the  river 
are  generally  high  cliffs  of  limestone  or  sandstone,  and  its 
breadth  from  two  to  three  miles.  The  intervals  between 
these  chffs  are  mostly  occupied  by  hills  of  sand,  from  eighty  to 
one  hundred  feet  high,  whose  intermediate  valleys  are  well 
wooded ;  and  whenever  these  occur,  the  channel  of  the  river 
IS  much  interrupted  by  banks,  on  which,  as  well  as  on  the 
beach,  there  are  vast  collections  of  drift  timber,  piled,  in 
some  p.aces,  twenty  feet  high,  by  the  spring  floods. 

At  eleven  p.m.  we  arrived  at  Fort  Good  r|r>pc  the  lowest 


40 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 

Of  the  Company's  establishments ;  it  is  distant  from  Fort  Nor- 
man three  hundred  and  twelve  miles,  and  is  in  latitude  67°  28' 
21"  N.,  and  longitude  130°  51'  38"  W.:  the  variation  of  the 
compass  being  47°  28'  41"  E.     Our  arrival  at  this  period  of 
the  year,  at  least  two  months  earlier  than  that  of  the  Compa- 
ny's boats  from  York  Factory,  caused  great  astonishment  to 
the  few  inmates  of  this  dreary  dweUing,  and  particularly  to  its 
master,  Mr.  Charles  Dease,  who  scarcely  recovered  from  his 
surprise  until  we  had  been  seated  some  time  in  his  room.  But 
this  over,  he  quickly  put  every  one  in  motion  to  prepare  a 
meal  for  us,  of  which  we  stood  in  much  need,  as  it  was  then 
verging  on  midnight,  and  we  had  breakfasted  at  eight  in  the 
morning.     This  post  had  been  but  recently  established  for 
the  convenience  of  the  tribe  of  Indians  whom  Mackenzie  calls 
the  Quarrel lers,  but   whom  the  traders  throughout  the  fur 
country  name  Loucheux.     As  this  name  is  now  in  general 
use,  I  shall  adopt  it,  though  it  is  but  justice  to  the  people  to 
say,  that  they  have  bright  sparkling  eyes,  without  the  least 
tendency  to  that  obliquity  which  might  be  inferred   from 
the  term.     The  fact  is,  that  Loucheux,  or  Squinter,  was  in- 
tended to  convey  the  sense  of  the  Indian  name  of  the  tribe 

Deguthee  Dennee,  which  means  "  the  people  who  avoid  the 
arrows  of  their  enemies,  by  keeping  a  look  out  on  both  sides." 
None  of  the  tribe  was  at  this  time  at  the  fort ;  but  from  Mr. 
Dease  we  learned  the  interesting  fact,  that  the  Loucheux  and 
Esquimaux,  who  are  generally  at  war,  had  met  amicably  the 
preceding  spring,  and  that  they  were  now  at  peace.  We 
procured  from  the  store  an  assortment  of  beads,  and  such 
things  as  were  most  in  request  with  the  Loucheux,  and  made 
up  a  small  package  of  clothing  to  be  presented  to  each  chief 
of  that  tribe,  whose  favour  it  was  thought  advisable  by  this 
means  to  propitiate,  as  they  were  the  next  neighbours  to  the 
Esquimaux. 

Thursday  11th  ^^^^  ^^^  latitude  had  been  observed,  w^e  em- 
'  '  barked,  and  were  accompanied  by  Mr.  Dease 
as  far  as  Trading  River,  where  he  expected  there  might  still 
be  a  party  of  Indians,  which  did  not  prove  the  case.  This 
river  being  the  usual  limit  of  the  trader's  travels  towards  the 
sea,  the  voyager  who  had  come  with  us  from  Fort  Norman 
declined  going  any  farther,  and  by  permission  of  Mr.  Dease  he 
"was  exchanged  for  a  young  half-breed  named  Baptiste,  the  in- 
terpreter of  the  fort,  who  went  under  the  promise  of  being  left 
with  the  chief  of  the  Loucheux,  to  whom  he  was  to  inlro3uce 
the  party. 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


41 


August.] 

The  reach  below  Trading  River  is  remarkable,  from  the 
banks  on  the  eastern  side  consisting  of  hills  of  a  light  yellow 
marl-slate,  nearly  uniform  in  shape,  and  strongly  resembling 
*  piles  of  cannon  shot.     The  name  of  Cannon-Shot  Reach  was, 
therefore,  bestowed  on  it.     The  channel  of  the  river  is  very 
intricate,  winding  amongst  numerous  sand-banks,  and  some  low 
alluvial  islands,  on  which  willows  only  grow.     Its  breadth  is 
about  two  miles,  and  the  depth  of  water,  in  the  autumn,  from 
six  to  twelve  feet.     In  passing  through  Cannon-Shot  Reach, 
we  were  hailed  by  an  Indian  from  the  shore,  and  landed  im- 
mediately, to  inform  him  of  the  purport  of  our  visit.     As 
soon  as  Baptiste  had  explained  these  matters  to  him,  the 
man,  deeming  it  of  importance  that  we  should  be  properly  in- 
troduced to  hia  relatives,  ofTered  to  accompany  us  to  the  next 
party,  providing  we  would  undertake  to  carry  his  baggage. 
This  we  consented  to  do,  little  expecting,  from  the  appearance 
of  poverty  in  himself  and  his  family,  and  still  less  from  that  of 
his  tent,  a  mere  covering  of  bark  and  pine  branches,  support- 
ed on  three  poles,  that  load  upon  load  of  unsavoury  fish  would 
be  tossed  into  the  boat.    However,  we  were  unwilling  to  re- 
tract our  promise,  and  suffered  our  vessel  to  be  completely 
lumbered.     We  then  pushed  off,  leaving  the  family  to  follow  in 
the  canoe,  but  in  a  short  time  our  ears  were  assailed  by  the  loud 
cries  of  the  man  demanding  that  we  should  stop.     On  his 
coming  up,  we  found  he  was  apprehensive  of  the  canoe  sinking, 
it  being  very  leaky  and  overloaded,  and  of  his  losing  his  wiife 
and  infant  child.     The  water  being  thrown  out,  the  man  pro- 
posed going  forward  and  keeping  by  our  side.     There  was 
nothing  now  to  fear,  yet  the  lamentations  of  the  woman  be- 
came louder  and  louder,  and  at  Ipst  the  poor  creature  threw 
off  her  only  covering,  raised  the  most  piteous  cries,  and  ap- 
peared a  perfect  object  of  despair.     We  learned  from  Baptiste 
that  she  was  mourning  the  loss  of  two  near  relatives  who 
had  recently  died  near  the  spot  we  were  passing.     In  this 
manner  do  these  simple  people  show  their  sorrow  for  the 
death  of  their  connexions.     As  we  drew  near  the  tents  of  the 
party  on  shore,  the  husband  proclaimed  with  a  stentorian  voice 
who  we  were;  this  produced  a  long  reply,  of  which  Baptiste 
could  only  collect  enough  to  inform  us  that  many  persons 
were  lying  sick  in  the  lodges,  and  that  two  had  died  the  pre- 
cedmg  day.     Not  choosing  to  expose  ourselves  to  the  hazard 
of  contagion,  we  put  the  baggage  of  our  friend  on  shore  at 
some  distance  below  the  lodges.     All  those  who  were  able  to 
manage  a  canoe,  came  off  to  receive  presents,  and  to  see 

6 


42 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


Augustus,  the  principal  object  of  attraction.    Each  person 
crowded  to  the  side  on  which  he  sat  to  shake  him  by  the 
hand;  and  two  of  the  party,  who  had  been  occasionally  with 
the  Esquimaux,  contrived  to  make  him  understand  that,  being 
accompanied  by  him,  we  need  apprehend  no  violence  from 
them,  though  they  were  a  treacherous  people.     At  the  end  of 
five  miles  farther  we  put  on  shore  to  sup,  and  afterwards  slept 
in  the  boat ;  but  Augustus  spread  his  blankets  on  the  beach 
be  ore  the  hre,  and  allowed  four  of  the  Loucheux,  who  had 
lollowed  us  from  the  tents,  to  share  them  with  him. 
Friday,  12th        ^*  daylight  we  loosened  from  the  beach,  and 
continued  with  the  descent  of  the  river ;  winding 
m  our  course,  as  numerous  sandbanks  rendered  necessary     In 
a  few  hours  we  descried  another  collection  of  Indian^'lodges 
One  of  the  party  happened  to  be  examining  his  nets  nearer  to 
us  than  the  tents ;  on  espying  the  boat,  he  immediately  desist- 
ed, and  paddled  towards  his  friends  with  the  utmost  speed, 
bawling  the  whole  way  for  them  to  arm.     The  women  and 
children  were  seen  hurrying  up  the  bank  to  hide  themselves ; 
and  by  the  time  we  had  got  abreast  of  the  lodges,  the  whole 
party  were  in  a  state  of  defence.     They  stood  on  the  beach 
gazing  at  us  evidently  with  much  distrust ;  and  for  some  time 
no  one  would  accept  our  invitations  to  approach.     At  length 
an  adventurous  youth,  distinguishable  among  the  rest  by  the 
gaiety  of  his  dress,  and  the  quantity  of  beads  that  were  sus- 
pended  around  his  neck,  launched  his  canoe  and  paddled  gently 
towards  the  boat,  till  he  discovered  Augustus,  whom  he  knew 
by  his  countenance  to  be  an  Esquimaux ;  then  rising  from  his 
seat,  he  threw  up  his  hands  for  joy,  and  desired  every  one  of 
the  party  to  embark  at  onco.     The  summons  was  instantly 
obeyed,  and  a  friendly  intercourse  followed  ;  each  person  that 
had  a  gun  discharging  its  contents,  and  taking  the  iron  heads 
and  barbs  from  the  arrows,  to  show  their  entire  confidence. 
Un  landing  to  breakfast,  we  found  that  the  dialect  of  this  party 
was  different  from  that  of  the  men  we  had  seen  yesterday, 
and   that  Baptiste  did  not  understand  their  language ;  con- 
sequently our  communications  were  carried  on  by  signs  ex- 
cept   when    they  attempted    to    speak    Esquimaux,   which 
Augustus,  with  difficulty,  made  out.     He  was  still  the  centre 
of  attraction,  notwithstanding  Mr.  Kendall  and  myself  were 
dressed  m  uniform,  and  were  distributing  presents  to  them. 
Ihey  caressed  Augustus,  danced  and  played  around  him,  to 
testily  their  joy  at  his  appearance  among  them,  and  we  could 
not  tielp  admiring  the  demeanour  of  our  excellent  little  com- 


August] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


43 


panion  under  such  unusual  and  extravagant  marks  of  atten- 
tion.    He  received  every  burst  of  applause,  every  shake  of  the 
hand,  with  modesty  and  affability,  but  would  not  allow  them 
to  interrupt  him  in  the  preparation  of  our  breakfast,  a  task 
which  he  always  delighted  to  perform.     As  soon  as  we  had 
finished  our  meal,  he  made  his  friends  sit  down,  and  distributed 
to  each  person  a  portion  of  his  own,  but  without  any  affectation 
of  superiority.     When  we  were  on  the  point  of  embarkinc/, 
the  oldest  Indian  of  the  party  intimated  his  desire  that  w'e 
^ould  stop  until  some  one  whom  he  had  sent  for  should  come. 
This  proved  to  be  his  son,  in  a  very  sickly  state.     Though  the 
day  was  warm,  the  lad  wag  shivering  with  cold,  and  it  was 
evident  he  was  suffering  from  fever,  which  the  father  had  no 
doubt  we  could  cure.     The  only  remedy  we  could  apply  was 
some  warm  tea,  with  a  little  brandy  in  it,  which  we  after- 
wards learned  had  the  desired  effect  of  restoring  the  invalid 
Again  we  were  preparing  to  set  off,  when  the  same  old  man 
begged  us  to  stop  until  the  women  should  come  ;  these  were 
no  less  pleased  with  Augustus,  and  with  the  presents  they  re- 
ceived, than  the  men  had  been. 

This  good-natured  tribe  is  distinguished  by  the  traders  as 
the  Lower  Loucheux,  but  the  literal  meaning  of  their  Indian 
name  is  the  Sharp  Eyes.  They  are  decidedly  a  well-looking 
people  :  m  manner,  and  general  appearance,  they  resemble  the 
Esquimaux  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  though  not  in 
their  eyes  which  are  prominent  and  full.  Their  canoes,  too 
are  shaped  like  those  of  the  Esquimaux,  and  made  of  birch 
bark,  which,  by  some  process,  is  striped  from  the  gunwale 
perpendicularly  downwards,  for  the  purpose  of  ornament 
Their  summer  dress,  like  that  of  the  Upper  Loucheux  and  Es- 
quimaux, is  a  jacket  of  leather,  prolonged  to  a  point  before 
and  behind :  the  leggings,  of  the  same  material,  are  sewn  to 
the  shoes,  and  tied  by  a  string  round  the  waist.  The  outer 
edges  of  their  dress  are  cut  info  fringes,  coloured  with  red  and 
yellow  earth,  and  generally  decorated  with  beads.  Beads  are 
so  much  coveted  by  them,  that,  for  some  years,  they  were  the 
principal  article  of  trade  exchanged  for  tlieir  furs  ;  and  even 
now  the  successful  hunter,  or  the  favourite  son,  may  be  known 
by  the  quantity  of  strings  of  different  coloured  beads  which  he 
has  about  his  neck.  These  Indians  are  the  only  natives  of 
America,  except  the  Esquimaux,  whom  I  have  seen  with  the 
septum  of  the  nose  perforated,  through  which,  like  the  Esqui- 
maux, they  thrust  pieces  of  bone,  or  small  strini^'s  of  shJiN 
which  they  purchase  from  that  people.     Few  of  them  have 


44 


SE(  0\D  JOURXEV  TO  THE  SfTOnES 


[1825. 

guns,  but  each  man  is  armed  with  a  bow  and  arrows.  The 
bovys  are  constructed  of  three  pieces  of  wood,  the  middle  one 
straight,  and  those  at  each  end  crooked,  and  bound  with 
smews,  of  which  the  string  is  alsb  made.  The  dress  of  the 
women  only  differs  from  that  of  the  men  by  the  hood  being 
made  sufficiently  wide  to  admit  of  their  carrying  a  child  on 
their  back. 

At  ten  A.M.  we  resumed  our  journey,  followed  by  the  young 
man  who  had  first  spoken  to  us,  and  his  brother;  in  their 
canoes,  and  in  the  course  of  two  hours  came  abreast  of  a  re- 
markable round-backed  hill,  on  which  we  were  informed  Mr. 
Livingstone  and  his  party  had  encamped  in  1795,  the  night 
before  they  were  massacred.     This  hill  marks  the  commence- 
ment  of  another  contraction  of  the  river,  which  is  here  pent  in 
between  very  steep  cliffs  of  blue  limestone,  which  I  have  de- 
nommated  the  Narrows.     The  Red  River  contributes  its 
waters  to  the  Mackenzie  at  the  lower  part  of  the  Narrow?  in 
latitude  67°  27'  N.,  longitude  133°  3.1'  W. ;  and,  though  of 
mconsiderable  size,  is  remarkable  as  being  the  boundary  be- 
tween the  lands  claimed  by  the  Loucheux  Indians  and  those 
of  the  Esquimaux,  and  likewise  as  the  spot  where  the  amica- 
ble meeting  between  these  tribes  had  been  held  in  the  preceding 
spring.     We  did  not  find  the  chief  of  the  Loucheux  here,  as 
had  been  expected,  and  therefore  passed  on.     The  banks  of 
the  river,  now  entirely  composed  of  sand  and  sandstone,  be- 
came gradually  lower,  and  more  bare  of  trees.     At  the  end  of 
eight  miles  we  arrived  at  a  very  spacious  opening,  in  which 
were  numerous  well-wooded  islands,  and  various  channels. 
The  rocky  mountains  on  the  west  once  more  appeared  in  view* 
extending  from   S.W.  to   N.W.  and  preserving  a  N.W.^w' 
direction  ;  and  of  this  range  a  very  lofty  peak,  and  a  table 
mountain,  which  1  have  named  after  the  late  Mr.  Gifford, 
form  the  most  conspicuous  features.     We  steered  into  the 
eastern  channel,  as  being  that  through  which  the  current  seem- 
ed to  run  swiftest ;  and  as  soon  as  we  came  to  a  high  bank 
we  landed,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  a  survey  of  the  surround- 
ing scene.     But  even  from  its  summit  our- view  was  very 
limited,  and  all  we  could  discover  was,  that  we  were  certain- 
ly m  that  expansion  of  the  river  that  Mackenzie  delineates  in 
his  chart,  and,  therefore,  in  the  fair  way  to  the  sea,  whatever 
channel  we  took.     This  might  have  been  inferred,  from  the 
sadden  departure  of  our  two  Indian  companions,  who  dropped 
behind  and  turned  their  canoes  round,  without  further  ceremo- 
ny, as  soon  as  they  saw  our  intention  of  entering  the  eastern  chan- 


August] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


45 


TOWS,  m 


nel.     Baptiste,  who  was  asleep  at  the  time,  expressed  surprise 
at  their  having  gone  hack,  but  consoled  himself  with  the  idea 
of  meeting  the  Indian  chief  the  next  morning,  at  a  place  he 
called  the  Forks.     We  were   amused  at  conjecturing  how 
gr6at   his  surprise   would   be   should   he  next  be  disturbed, 
by  the  hallowing  of  a  party  of  Esquimaux,  whom  he  greatly' 
dreaded.     At  the  end  of  twenty-three  miles  descent  "in  the 
middle  channel,  having  passed  one  that  branched  off  to  the 
eastward,  we  put  up  at  an  early  hour,  and  caused  the  guns  to 
be  cleaned,  and  two  sentinels  appointed  to  watch,  least  the 
Esqumiaux  should  come  upon  us  unawares.     The  banks  of 
the  river,  as  well  as  the  islands,  are  entirely  alluvial,  and  sup- 
port willows  at  the  lower  parts,  and  the  spruce-fir  trees  at  the 
summits.    The  beach  on  which  we  were  encamped  was  much 
intersected  with  the  recent  tracts  of  the  moose  and  rein-deer. 

We  embarked  at  three  a.m.  on  the  1 3th  ;  and 
as  we  v/ere  in  momentary  expectation  of  meet-    ®**"'"'^*y'  13th. 
ing  the  Esquimaux  with  whom  I  wished  to  have  an  interview, 
the  masts  were  struck,  lest  they  should  discover  the  boat  at  a 
distance,  and  run  off.     We  soon  passed  two  of  their  huts 
which  did  not  seem  to  have  been  recently  inhabited.     The 
longitude  134°  20'  30"  W.,  and  variation  51°  4'  20"  E  ,  were 
observed  at  the  time  we  halted  to   breakfast,  and   the  lati- 
tude 68°   13'  50"  N.,  at  noon.      The  Rein-deer  mountains 
on  the  eastern  side,  came  in  view  before  noon.     The  range 
on  the  west  was  also  occasionally  visible  :  we  were  descend- 
ing between  the  M'Gillivray  and  Simpson  islands,  in  a  channel 
that  did  not  exceed  half  a  mile  in  breadth.     A  fine  breeze 
sprung  up  after  noon,  of  which  we  took  advantage  by  setting 
the  sails,  not  having  seen  any  recent  traces  of  the  Esquimaux 
At  the  extremity  of  Simpson  island  there  is  a  broad  channel' 
which  pours  its  waters  into  the  one  in  which  we  were  at  a 
place  where  the  stream  is  contracted  by  a  small  island,  and  a 
strong  rapid  is  the  consequence  of  this  junction.     Here  we 
lound  many  huts,  and  other  indications  of  its  being  a  place  of 
resort  for  fishing ;  here,  too,  it  is  supposed  Mr.  Livingstone 
and  his  crew  fell  a  sacrifice  to  the  first  party  of  Esquimaux 
wliom  they  met.     Several  other  openings  branched  off  to  the 
eastvvard  ;  but  we  continued  to  follow  the  largest  channel,  in 
which  the  current  was  very  strong,  and  kept  nearly  parallel 
to,  and  about  ten  miles  from,  the  Rein-deer  mountains:  Their 
outline,  viewed  from  this  distance,  appeared  very  regular,  the 
on  y  remarkable  parts  being  some  eminences  that  were  tinged 
with  a  deep  pink  colour.     Sailing  by  one  of  the  huts  at  a 


46  SECOND  JOUIINEY  TO  THE  SHORES  [1825. 

quick  rate,  every  one's  attention  was  arrested  at  hearing  a 
shrill  sound,  which  was  supposed  to  be  a  human  voice ;  but 
on  landing  to  ascertain  the  fact,  we  could  find  no  person,  nor 
any  footsteps.  We,therefore,  continued  our  journey.  As  we 
proceeded,  the  river  became  more  devious  in  its  course,  the 
nuts  of  the  Esquimaux  were  now  more  frequent ;  none  of  them, 
however,  seemed  to  have  been  recently  inhabited.  The 
islands  were  of  the  same  alluvial  kind  as  those  seen  yesterday, 
and  the  wood  on  them  equally  plentiful  and  lai^e.  We 
stopped  to  sup  at  nine,  extinguished  the  fire  as  soon  as  we  had 
finished,  and  then  retired  to  sleep  in  the  boat,  keeping  two 
men  on  guard. 

Sunday,  14th.      7^'?J°^'*i^^?  ^^  ^  ^""^'V  ^'^^^^  *^''  morning, 
and  at  the  end  ol  seven  miles  came  to  the  last  of 

the  fir  trees,  in  latitude  68°  40'  N.,  the  only  wood  beyond  this 
being  stunted  wil'ows,  which  became  still  more  dwarfish  at 
thirty  miles  fror     he  mouth  of  the  river.    There  was  plenty 
of  drift-w^ood  on  tiie  borders  of  the  islands,  and  some  even  on 
the  higher  parts,  at  a  distance  from  the  water;  from  which  it 
would  appear  that  at  certain  seasons  they  are  inundated.    At 
length  the  main  stream  took  a  turn  to  the  S.S.W.,  which  we  fol- 
lowed, though  there  was  a  branch  northwards,  but  it  seemed 
to  be  much  impeded  by  mud-banks.*  At  the  end  of  eight  miles 
the  river  again  inclined  to  the  north  of  west,  round  the  southern 
extremity  of  Halkett  island,  and  there  were  openings  to  the 
north  and  south,  which  we  did  not  stop  to  examine.     A  fog- 
bank  hung  over  the  northern  horizon,  which  gave  us  no  little 
uneasiness,  from  its  strong  resemblance  to  a  continuous  line  of 
ice-blink;  and  the  clouds,  from  the  sun-beams  falling  on  them, 
had  the  exact  appearance  of  icebergs.    However,  the  sun  be- 
came sufficiently  powerful  in  the  afternoon  to  dissipate  the 
cause  of  this  illusion,  and  relieve  us  from  anxiel)'  on  that  score. 
A  body  of  water,  nearly  equal  to  that  we  were  descending, 
poured  in  between  the  Colville  and  Halkett  islands  with  such 
force  as  to  cause  a  very  strong  ripple  at  the  point  of  junction, 
which  we  avoided  by  keeping  close  to  the  shore  of  Langley 
island.  The  channel,  after  the  union  of  these  streams,  increased 
to  a  breadth  of  two  miles,  preserving  a  N.N.W.  course.     We 
stood  twelve  miles  in  this  direction,  and  two  to  the  westward, 
when  we  were  gratified  by  the  delightful  prospect  of  the  shore 
suddenly  divei^ng,  and  a  wide  space  of  open  water  to  the  north- 

*  An  attentive  perusal  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzio'i  Narrative  loads  me 
to  the  concluBion,  that  it  was  this  northern  branch  which  that  traveller  pur- 
sued in  his  voyage  to  Whale  Island. 


August.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


47 


rson,  nor 


ward,  wh  ch  we  doubted  not  would  prove  to  be  the  sea.    Just 
at  this  time  a  seal  made  its  appearance,  and  sported  about  the 
boat  as  if  in  confirmation  of  this  opinion.     We  attempted  to 
coast  along  the  shore  of  Ellice  island,  but  found  the  water  too 
shallow,  and  that  the  boat  grounded  whenever  we  got  out  of 
^le  channel  of  the  river,  which  was  near  the  western  side. 
1  he  wind  and  waves  were  too  high  for  us  to  make  any  pro- 
gress in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  as  the  clouds  threatened 
more  boisterous  weather,  we  went  to  Pitt  island  to  encamp. 
Ihe  haze  which  had  hidden  all  distant  objects  since  five  p.m. 
passed  off  as  the  sun  set,  and  we  gained  a  very  magnificent 
view  oi  that  portion  of  the  rocky  mountain  which  I  have  called 
after  my  companion  Dr.  Richardson,  and  of  which  the  remark- 
able conical  peak,  named  in  honour  of  my  friend  Dr.  Fitton, 
President  of  the  Geological  Society,  and  the  Cupola  mountain, 
are  the  most  conspicuous  objects.     These  were  subsequently 
lound  to  be  near  sixty  miles  distant.     The  water  was  entirely 
Iresh,  and  there  was  no  perceptible  rise  of  tide.     Our  drowsy 
companion  Baptiste,  when  he  looked  upon  the  vast  expanse  of 
water,  for  the  first  time,  expressed  some  apprehension  that  we 
had  passed  the  Forks,  and  that  there  was  a  doubt  of  our  see- 
ing  the  Indian  chief;  but  he  was  by  no  means  convinced  of 
the  tact  until  the  following  day,  when  he  tasted  salt  water,  and 
lost  sight  of  the  main  shore.    After  our  Sundiiv  evening's  sup- 
per, the  party  assembled  in  the  tent  to  read  pra'yer3,and  return 
thanks  to  the  Almighty,  for  having  thus  far  crowned  our  labours 
with  success. 

In  the  morning  of  the  fifteenth  the  wind  blew 
a  gale,  as  it  had  done  through  the  night,  and  every  M°"^ay»  l^th. 
object  was  obscured  by  a  thick  fog.     About  six  a.m.  we  took 
advantage  of  a  temporary  abatement  of  the  wind  to  cross  over 
to  some  higher  land  on  the  eastern  side,  which  we  had  seen 
the  preceding  evening,  appearing  like  islands.    Owing  to  the 
thickness  of  the  fog,  we  were  guided  in  our  course  at  starting 
solely  by  the  compass.     When  we  reached  the  channel  of  the 
river,  the  gale  returned  with  increased  violence,  and  its  direc- 
tion being  opposite  to  the  current,  such  high  waves  were  raised, 
that  the  boat  took  in  a  good  deal  of  water.  The  fog  now  cleared 
away,  and  the  three  eminences  mistaken  for  islands  were  as- 
certained to  be  conical  hummocks,  rising  above  the  low  eastern 
shore.  We  pushed  for  the  nearest,  and  landed  a  short  distance 
trom  Its  base  at  eight  a.  m.     On  going  to  the  summit  of  this 
enrunence,  m  the  expectation  of  obtaining  the  bearings  of  seve- 
ral distant  points,  we  were  a  little  disappointed  to  find  that  only 


48 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


m4 


[1825. 

the  low  shores  of  Pitt  Island  were  visible,  extending  fronn  S.E. 
to  W.N.W.,  though  we  were  repaid  for  our  visit  by  observing 
two  moose  deer  quietly  browsing  on  the  tops  of  the  willows, 
a  short  distance  from  us.     Mr.  Kendall  hastened  down  to  de- 
spatch Baptiste  in  pursuit  of  them,  who  returned  an  hour  after- 
wards to  inform  us  that  he  had  wounded  one,  which  he  had 
been  prevented  from  following  by  the  loss  of  his  powder-horn. 
As  there  was  no  possibility  of  our  getting  forward  until  the 
gale  abated,  Baptiste  and  Augustus  were  sent  out  to  hunt,  there 
being  numerous  tracks  of  moose  and  rein  deer  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  tent.     I  also  despatched  Mr.  Kendall,  with 
two  seamen,  to  walk  some  distance  into  the  interior,  and  en- 
deavour to  clear  up  the  doubt  whether  we  were  upon  the  main 
shore,  or  upon  an  island.     The  astronomical  observations  ob- 
tained at  the  encampment  place  it  in  latitude  69°  3'  45"  N., 
longitude  ]  35°  44'  57"  W.     A  tide-pole  was  put  up  immedi- 
ately on  our  landing,  and  we  perceived  the  water  to  rise  about 
three  inches  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  and  to  fall  the  same 
quantity  in  the  evening.     The  temperature  of  the  air  did  not 
exceed  forty-eight  degrees  all  this  day:  when  in  the  river,  it 
used  to  vary  from  55°  to  70°.     Mr.  Kendall  came  back  in  the 
evening,  bringing  the  agreeable  intelligence  that  he  had  assisted 
in  killing  a  female  moose  and  her  calf,  and  that  Augustus  had 
shot  a  rein  deer.     Some  men  were  sent  to  carry  the  meat  to 
the  borders  of  a  river  which  Mr.  Kendall  had  discovered,  while 
the  boat  went  round  to  its  entrance  about  one  mile  from  the 
encampment.     They  returned  at  sunset.     Many  geese  and 
ducks  were  seen  by  our  hunters.     Throughout  the  whole  of 
Mr.  Kendall's  walk,  of  twelve  or  fourteen  miles,  he  saw  only 
the  same  kind  of  flat  land,  covered  with  the  dwarf  willow  and 
the  moose-berry  plant,  as  was  discovered  from  the  tent,  except 
one  small  lake,  and  the  river  that  has  been  mentioned,  issuing 
from  it. 

Tuesday,  16th.  ^^^  atmosphere  was  so  thick  on  the  morning 
of  the  16th  as  to  confine  our  view  to  a  few  yards; 
we  therefore  remained  at  the  encampment  till  the  sun  had 
sufficient  power  to  remove  the  fog :  temperature  of  the  air  39°. 
Embarking  at  eleven  a.m.,  we  continued  our  course  along  the 
shore  of  ElUce  Island,  until  we  found  its  coast  trending  south- 
ward of  east.  There  we  landed,  and  were  rejoiced  at  the  sea- 
like appearance  to  the  northward.  This  point  is  in  latitude 
69°  14'  N.,  longitude  135°  57'  W.,  and  forms  the  north-eastern 
entrance  to  the  main  channel  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  which, 
from  Slave  Lake  to  this  point,  is  one  thousand  and  forty-five 


August] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SKA. 


49 


!^'1j.?N  E  1n\^'  "m  '"7'^-   ^"  '^'^"^  ^««  now  discovered 

middle  of  the  trZrle  If  wf  °^  ^^e  eastern  land.  In  the 
^ind,  against  whTchonr-.  .'""^r^  ,^>^  ^  '*''°"g  *=«ntrarjr 
hours,  though  Tenched  hv  h^'  '''""'^"1'^  contended  for  fivi 
^vhich  camf  info  the  bo«tTP'"^l'"^."^""  ^^  ^^^  ^^^««' 
taining  the  object  of  o„r  J  ^r'"u"S  *  u  '^*"''"  ^'^hout  at- 
rowerl  was  nearly  exLrJd''''/^*'""  ^^^  ^^'"^"Sth  of  the 
set  double-reefed  and  nnr  '  ''  n  '^!t  r^^^^^cc,  the  sails  were 
wavesintheSTuov  "'"'""""*  ^'*  ™°""^^^  ^^^r  the 

hundred  and  fifty  fee  hth  to  JI    "^  "i"  "'""''•  «''»•'*  '«"> 

CCoTn^^'"'^^^"?^'"'^"^^^^^^^^^^ 

majesty,  entirely  free  frnm  L^     j      ■i''''PP'''''='' '"  '""s 

tions  as  to  our  own  success  ^nd  tLf  nf  "°'*  ^^"enng  expecta- 
and  thp  F.,rir    tu    ""'^^*^^^'  ^"<1  that  of ».  ur  friends  m  the  Hecla 

Sic*^?t•?;I„^r^7Jr^V!oX"P-f  island,  at  nogr^^^^^^^^ 
affixing  the  na^  of^  "fcXt"  ft; '  '.  '"I  ""^  P'*'""'''  "f 

tie  attentiol  to  the'clforfof  m'vllf  ■''"r  ""^  '■"'^'"'"'S'- 

Durine  our  awL.  ?!.„  ?^f  "^  ""''  ""X  companions. 

h u  '  ?,  .    absence  thp  men  had  Ditched  tho  t«nf  „„  .t. 

U..h,  uuu  ,  caused  the  siiic  union-flag  to  be  hoiSdr^hlch 


60 


SECOND  VOYAGE  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1025. 


my  deeply-lamented  wife  had  made  and  presented  to  me,  as  a 
parting  gift,  under  the  express  injunction  that  it  was  not  to  be 
unfurled  before  the  Expedition  reached  the  sea.  1  will  not 
attempt  to  describe  my  emotions  as  it  expanded  to  the  breeze 
—however  natural,  and,  for  the  moment,  irresistible,  I  felt 
that  it  was  my  duty  to  suppress  them,  and  that  I  had  no  right, 
by  an  indulgence  of  my  own  sorrows,  to  cloud  the  animated 
countenances  of  my  companions.  Joining,  therefore,  with  the 
best  grace  that  1  could  command,  in  the  general  excitement,  1 
endeavoured  to  return  with  corresponding  cheerfulness,  their 
warm  congratulations  on  having  thus  planted  the  British  flag 
on  this  remote  island  of  the  Polar  Sea. 

Some  spirits,  which  had  been  saved  for  the  occasion,  were 
issued  to  the  men  ;  and  with  three  fervent  cheers  they  drank 
to  the  health  of  our  beloved  monarch,  and  to  the  continued 
success  of  our  cntcrprize.  Mr.  Kendall  and  I  had  also  reserv- 
ed a  little  of  our  brandy,  in  order  to  celebrate  this  interesting 
event ;  but  Baptiste,  in  his  delight  of  beholding  the  sea,  had  set 
before  us  some  salt  water,  which  having  been  mixed  with  the 
brandy  before  the  mistake  was  discovered,  we  were  reluctantly 
obliged  to  forego  the  intended  draught,  and  to  use  it  in  the 
more  classical  form  of  a  libation  poured  on  the  ground. 

Baptiste,  on  discovering  that  he  had  actually  reached  the 
ocean,  stuck  his  feathers  in  his  hat,  and  exultingly  exclaimed, 
"  Now  that  I  am  one  of  the  Gens  de  la  mer,  you  shall  see  how 
active  I  will  be,  and  how  I  will  crow  over  the  Gens  du  nordy'' 
the  name  by  which  the  Athabasca  voyagers  are  designated. 
No  fresh  water  was  found  on  Garry  Island  until  Augustus  dis- 
covered a  small  lake,  the  streams  ttiat  poured  down  from  the 
cliffs  being  as  salt  as  the  sea.  The  temperature  of  the  sea  water 
was  51°  ;  the  fresh  water  w^c  had  left  at  five  miles  from  the 
island  55°  ;  and  that  of  the  air  52°. 

Garry  Island  is  about  five  miles  long,  by  two  broad,  and 
seems  to  be  a  mass  of  frozen  mud,  which,  in  the  parts  exposed  to 
the  air  and  sunt  has  a  black  earthy  appearance.  It  is  terminated 
to  the  north-west  by  a  steep  cliff,  through  which  protrude,  in  a 
highly  inclined  position,  several  layers  of  wood-coal,  similar  to 
that  found  in  the  Mackenzie.  There  was  likewise  observed 
a  bituminous  liquid  trickling  down  in  many  parts,  but  particu- 
larly near  the  south-west  point  of  the  cliff  where  the  bank  had 
been  broken  away,  and  a  hollow  cavity  was  formed.  The 
ravines  and  gullies  were  still  filled  with  ice,  though  none  was 
seen  on  the  level  ground.  There  were  no  stones  above  the 
sea  level ;  those  on  the  beach  consisted  of  granite,  greenstone, 
quartz,  and  lydianstone,  of  a  Bmali  size  and  completely  round- 


August.] 


or  THE  polah  sea. 


41 


ed.  The  vegetable  productions  were  grasses,  a  few  mosses 
and  some  shrubs,  the  latter  in  flower.  Four  foxes  were  th^ 
only  land  animals  we  saw;  and  a  small  hawk,  some  gulls,  dot'^- 
terels,  and  phaleropes,  composed  the  list  of  birds.  A  large 
medusa  was  found  on  the  beach.  ^ 

1  ^T^^  '^^  ^^^  cloudless  on  the  morning  of  the 
17th,  which  enabled  us  to  ascertain  the  posi-  Wednoaday,  I7th. 

35- 4r"w  "'T^'"*  *°  ^.^  •"  '^*'^"^*^  ^9°  29'  N.,  longitude 
5I°42'F  w  if'  variation  of  the  magnetic  needle  to  be 
oi    4^  a,.     We  likewise  found  that  it  was  high  water  that  dav 

r  eta  o?'th"/Ij  %""  "If  '^'l«^  '"^^^  infhes,tt  the'dY 
rection  of  the  flood  could  not  be  ascertained.     I  wrote  for 

tion  aThelTh?  ^"°""t  o^  <'"^  Progress,  with  such  informa- 
Ser  wfth Thlr'"'^""''^'/"!,'"''  he  wished  to  communicate 
mlr  «^i  /  Company's  Post  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  or  our 
prtv,  and  deposited  my  letter,  with  many  others  that  I  had 
in  charge  for  fi.mself  and  the  officers  of  the  ships,  under  a  pole 
erected  for  the  purpose,  on  which  we  left  a  blu^  and  red  flae 
%mg,  to  attract  his  attention.    Another  statement  of  our  pro? 

the  sef  rmim  '"  '  ^J^^^-P-^^  ^ox,  and  committeSTo 
the  sea  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  the  island.  The  wind 
blew  strong  oir  the  land  at  the  time,  and  ther^  was  aTa"e 

oflXT'^yT'''  "^'  ""f^'  ^^y^''  '^^'  there  is  eviry  chance 
of  the  letter  haying  made  good  way  to  the  eastward^ 

P  ^ZLXfT  '^1  ^h^^^^^tions,  we  embarked  at  two 
P.M.,  and  pulled  along  the  western  shore  of  the  island  thrPP 
miles  to  the  sandy  spit  at  its  south-west  end,  on  which  here 
was  a  vast  quantity  of  drift-wood  piled  by  the  action  of  fh. 

t^rM  I'''^  *'^^P°'"i  '''  ^^"-hed  fo?th  to  crortowards 
the  Mackenzie  under  double-reefed  sails,  as  the  wind  was 
blovvmg  strong,  and  the  waves  high  in  the  offing  ;bJ^  finding 
the  boat  very  stifT  and  buoyant,  the  sail  was  fnci"  ased  anf 
reaching  the  eastern  point  of  Ellice  Island  by  seven  pm  we 
encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  outermost  of  the  three  hummock! 
mentioned  on  the  1 5th  of  August.  As  we  passed  a wJhe 
shore  of  the  island,  we  disturbed  some  moosS  rSee; 
and  several  geese,  cranes,  and  swans,  that  were  quietly  feed: 
h!r  Sl'^^^'r-     ^*  *h'^  P^"^'^  of  the  yea?,  therefore 

nunter.     Jn  the  course  of  the  evening  I  found  that  a  oiece  of 

Towdthtn  bTl^'sidr  ^'^^^"'^'  ^"'  ^^^^^^'^  *^^  -t^' 

bee?H,n'l7r:?^T!Z?„l"^^^^  Alexander  Mackenzie,  has  • 

..,  „„^,i„,^  i"iit  he  nad  reached  the  sea,  without 


52 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 

having  ascertained  that  the  water  was  salt.   He,  in  fact,  clearly 
states  that  he  never  did  reach  the  salt  water.    The  danger  to 
which  his  canoe  was  exposed  in  venturing  two  or  three  miles 
beyond  Whale  Island,  (which  lies  to  the  eastward  of  our  route,) 
at  a  time  when  the  sea  was  covered  with  ice  to  the  north,  is  a 
sufficient  reason  for  his  turning  back ;  and  we  can  abundantly 
testify  that  those  frail  vessels  are  totally  unfitted  to  contend 
against  such  winds  and  seas  as  we  experienced  in  advancing 
beyond  the  volume  of  fresh  water  poured  out  by  the  Macken- 
zie.   It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  even  had  the  sea  been  free 
from  ice  at  the  time  of  his  visit,  he  could  not  have  gone  far 
enough  to  prove  its  saltness,  though  the  boundless  horizon, 
the  occurence  of  a  tide,  and  the  sight  of  porpoises  and  whales, 
naturally  induced  him  to  say  that  he  had  arrived  at  the  ocean. 
The  survey  of  the  Mackenzie  made  on  this  Expedition,  differs 
very  little  in  its  outline  from  that  of  its  discoverer,  whose  gene- 
ral correctness  we  had  often  occasion  to  admire.    We  had,  in- 
deed, to  alter  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  some  of  its  points, 
which  he  most  probably  laid  down  from  magnetic  bearings 
only ;  and  it  is  proper  to  remark,  that  in  comparing  our  mag- 
netic bearings  with  his,  throughout  the  whole  course  of  the 
river,  they  were  found  to  be  about  fifteen  degrees  more  easterly ; 
which  may,  therefore,  be  considered  as  the  amount  of  increase 
in  variation  since  1 789.    In  justice  to  the  memory  of  Macken- 
zie, I  hope  the  custom  of  calling  this  the  Great  River,  which 
is  in  general  use  among  the  traders  and  voyagers,  will  be  dis- 
continued, and  that  the  name  of  its  eminent  discoverer  may  be 
universally  adopted. 

The  excursions  to  Garry  Island  having  made  „,  ,  ..  , 
us  acquainted  with  the  state  of  the  sea  to  the  '""  '^^' 
northward,  and  having  shown  that,  the  bank  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  being  passed,  there  was  no  visible  impediment  to  a 
boat's  proceeding  eastward,  I  was  desirous  of  making  further 
examination  in  aid  of  the  future  operations  of  the  Expedition, 
by  going  over  to  the  western  shore,  and  of  reaching,  if  possible, 
the  fool  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  With  these  intentions  we 
embarked  at  nine  a.m.,  but  before  we  could  get  half  way  to  the 
nearest  part  of  Pitt  Island,  a  gale  of  wind  came  on  from  N,W., 
followed  by  violent  squalls,  which,  from  the  threatening  ap- 
pearance of  the  clouds,  and  the  rapid  descent  of  the  ther- 
mometer from  68°  to  51°,  seemed  likely  to  be  of  some 
continuance.  The  design  was,  therefore,  abandoned,  and  the 
boat's  head  directed  towards  the  entrance  of  the  river.  It 
proved,  however,  no  easy  task  to  get  into  the  proper  channel ; 

ani\    in  pflfiTf  iWte  nhinrJ-  t\\a  nfficoro  qnrl  c^f"'  h"''  *'»  Ac^nn  iVir* 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


63 


August.] 

ii''wiIi?*lMr'f^  '"''"'  ^^'''  ^.*^"^  *^^  ^^^^«  ^e^«  Seating  into 
llrmn  J    A     '""^  *'  ***  "'^''^  "'  apprehensive  of  its  being 

She  n«rrli  f  u^**  ^^f ''  ^"^  ^*  *^°  ^'^-  ^^  arrived  at 
break?n?rn/r  k  ""'"'  ^''^'T'^"'  ^'^^  ^^^^«  ^^^e  high  and 
KS.nf  t  P!;'P°'f  of  avoiding  these  and  the  strength 
throulhT  '  r  ^^P*  ^'  '^^'^  *«  **^^  «h«fe  a«  possible,  goL 
he  curreS^  "^Th?*  'uT  ?^''  ^"  ^««'''  ^"^  about  fou'rVef 
the  wl2lr  f  if  "^f  ^^''''  "^^'"^^  ^>^  **»«  «"dden  change  of 
awav  in  Wii  flf  K^  ^^  *'"^  ^^'^  ^'»d'  ^"d  hastlned 

SJJ^FJ'^a  a""}^^  ^^"thward.     At  ten  p.m.,  the  boat 
deariv  WP  L1I  S  .*^^'*'  fr^^our  not  being  able  to  see  our  war 

rhl!ll!r  '^^^■"^^'u  Pf  ^™'««d  us  to  distinguish  the 
channels,  we  embarked  again,  and  scudded  under    ^"'^'^y'  ^^th. 
the  foresail  before  the  gale,  which  this  day  blew  with  in- 
SSon'oT^^^^^  '^^*^'  to  breakfast  Lrsi:  winter 

frSn^s  of  fhl^n  K™  •  "^'  ^^'"**  ^«  supposed,  from  the 
that  wpL  J  .!  wood-shavmgs,  and  the  implements  of  fishing 

Sf  nlpl-  ^""'-^  ^''^"^  *''^'"'  h^d  been  abandoned  only  if 
the  precedmg  spnng;  and  as  it  was  probable  they  would  re- 

keme^nifrh'Jch  ?«'?  ''  *^-P°'^  '^  ^  tent  aTreTenf of" 
kettle,  knife  hatchet  file,  ice-chissel  some  beadsf  and  pieces 

wood  ir'i^^"^  '^'*^-     '^'^'^^  ^"*«  ^^^^  constructed  of  drift 

^sub;:Sue^i^.^'tT^'  *'  ^^•^^^  ^^^^^^  ^"^  •^^  described  in 
Ll^  -f  T   *   P"*  °^  *^^  narrative.     A  second  present  was 

t22     W    • '"^^  "?\^  *^"*^'  ^"d  ^  th'^^i  «t  those  belowThe 

?oud  bvThV rf  "'^  *^'*  ^T^'  '^"^^  ^"'  «f  these  wouTd  be 

wkh  ou^v  s^?  R^nn'"^'  "1^  7"^^^  "^^'^^  ^'"^  acquainted 
wim  our  visit.    By  noon  we  had  advanced  as  far  as  tlie  ranid 

pot\;inrtrtt'  f""'"  ""'r;?  ^^  ^  ^^-  miles  above  St' 
£lri'  .^  u*^^  fogginess  of  the  atmosphere,  we  took  a 
more  western  channel  than  that  by  which  we  desceiTded    This 

SiTrour "U  w'af"^'  '\  fTf^'^  broughTuTfol Jfor! 
Sace  for  thP  kLT  TK'^f'^  Y""'^  ^^  ^«"'d  find  a  secure 
?ontfntd  w^^^^^^^^  '^"l*"'J^  ^P«*  ^^'  «^^  t^nt.  The  gale 

and  t  was  w  h  ^flf^i"'"""*'  *?.^  ^^^^^^^  ^^«  ^aw  and  cold, 
S?e.^*S;etatu^^^^^^^^  "^  ^^"^^^^^  ^^™^  ^^^'^^  *«  ^-^'^  a 

On  the  20th  the  wind  was  moderate.    We 
resunied  our  journey  at  four  a.m.:  past  our   S^^^day, 20th. 

me  narrow  part  of  the  river  where  thf.  niimor«„.  „i,L„„i. 
commence.    Large  flights  of  geese  and  swanTwere  otee,;:! 


54 


SECOND  JOUUiVEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


Si"  ft 


passing  to  the  southward  all  this  day.     The  musquitoes  again 
made  their  appearance,  though  the  temperature  was  at  45°  : 
scarcely  any  of  them  had  been  seen  on  the  descent  to  the  sea. 
Temperature  at  day  light,  on  the  Slst,  37°. 
un  ay»    s .  -yy^^  commenced  our  labour  under  oars,  but  a  strong 
gale  from  the  southward  soon  rendered  this  mode  of  ascending 
the  river  ineffectual.     The  men  were,  therefore,  divided  into 
two  parties,  who  towed  the  boat  by  line,  relieving  each  other 
at  intervals  of  an  hour  and  a  half.    At  fifty  minutes  past  one 
P.M.  we  were  abreast  of  the  Red  River,  and  there  met  a  large 
party  of  the  lower  Loucheux  Indians,  who  had  assembled  to 
wait  our  arrival.     They  welcomed  our  return  with  every  de- 
monstration of  joy,  more  particularly  that  of  Augustus  and 
Baptiste,  and  at  first  cheerfully  assisted  the  men  in  towing,  but, 
like  Indians  in  general,  they  soon  became  tired  of  this  labour, 
and  rather  impeded  than  forwarded  our  progress.    So  we  dis- 
tributed to  each  a  present ;  made  known  as  well  as  well  as  we 
could  by  signs,  that  at  our  next  visit  we  would  purchase  what- 
ever fish  or  meat  they  might  collect,  and  took  our  leave  of 
them.     Owing  to  the  detention  these  men  and  another  party 
occasioned,  we  were  caught  by  a  heavy  gale  from  N.W.  before 
we  could  reach  our  encampment  at  the  head  of  the  Narrows, 
and  had  to  pitch  the  tent  in  pelting  rain.     Temperature  43°. 
M    d     22nd        ^"  *^®  22nd,  we  started  at  four  in  a  thick  wet 
MOD  ay,       .  ^^g^  which  gave  place  to  snow  and'sleet,  and  sailed 
the  whole  day  before  a  strong  N.W.  wind,  much  to  the  annoy- 
ance of  several  Indians  who  tried  to  keep  pace  with  the  boat, 
by  running  along  the  shore :  each  of  them  had  a  present  of  to- 
bacco thrown  to  him.     We  encamped  near  the  bottom  of 
Cannon-shot  Reach;  the  weather  was  extremely  cold,  and, 
during  the  night,  ice  was  formed  in  the  kettle.     On  the  next 

Tuesday,  23rd.  ^^  *^/  ^'"1  ^^^^  ^^^^^^^ry  from  S.E.,  which 
obliged  us  to  have  recourse  to  the  tow-lme.   The 
frequent  recurrence  of  sand-banks,  to  avoid  which  we  had 
either  to  pull  round  or  cross  the  river,  made  this  day's  opera- 
tions very  tedious.    In  turning  round  one  of  the  points,  we 
came  suddenly  upon  a  party  of  Indians,  who  had  not  seen  us 
on  our  way  down.     Our  appearance,  therefore,  created  great 
alarm ;  the  women  and  children  were  instantly  despatched  to  the 
woods,  and  the  men  came  down  to  the  beach  with  their  guns 
and  arroAvs  prepared,  and  knives  drawn ;  but  the  explanation 
that  Baptiste  gave,  soon  allayed  their  fears.     They  were,  in- 
deed, objects  of  pity ;  all  their  property  had  been  destroyed  to 
testify  their  grief  at  the  death  of  some  of  their  relations,  and 
the  bodies  of  several  were  still  sore  from  the  deep  gashes  they 


OF  THE  POLAR  8EA. 


65 


August.] 

had  inflicted  on  themselves  in  their  demonstrations  of  sorrow. 
We  distributed  such  useful  articles  among  them  as  we  had  re- 
maining, but  the  supply  was  not  at  all  equal  to  their  necessi- 
ties.    Several  of  them  attempted  to  follow  us  in  their  canoes 
by  poling,  which  they  dexterously  perform  by  pushing  at  the 
same  time  with  a  pole  or  paddle  in  each  hand ;  the  boat  how- 
ever, was  towed  faster  than  they  could  ascend  the  stream,  and 
they  were  soon  far  behind.   We  arrived  at  six  p.m.  at  the  Trad- 
ing River,  and  there  met  another  party  of  the  Loucheux,  among 
whom  was  the  woman  whose  tears  had  excited  our  sympathy 
on  the  1 1th,  now  in  high  glee,  and  one  of  the  most  importunate 
for  beads.     The  boy  was  likewise  there  to  whom  the  tea  had 
been  given  as  a  remedy  for  his  fever,  completely  recovered, 
which  was,  no  doubt,  ascribed  to  the  efficacy  of  the  medicine. 
Not  choosing  to  encamp  near  these  people,  we  crossed  the 
river,  and  towed  four  hours  longer,  when  we  reached  Fort 
Good  Hope.     Mr.  Dease,  and  all  his  fort,  were  overjoyed  on 
seeing  us  again,  because  the  Indians  had  begun  to  surmise,  and 
m  fact  had  brought  a  report  that  we  had  all  been  massacred 
by  the  Esquimaux ;  and  had  we  been  detained  another  week, 
this  statement  would  have  gained  entire  credence,  and,  in  all 
probability,  spread  throughout  the  country. 

The  Indian  whose  fish  we  carried  on  our  way  down,  hap- 
pened to  be  at  the  fort,  and  he  cheerfully  communicated, 
through  the  interpreter,  a  female,  all  the  information  that  he 
or  his  tribe  possessed  respecting  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the 
sea-coast,  and  the  Esquimaux,  all  topics  highly  interesting  to 
us,  but  we  subsequently  found  that  his  knowledge  of  these 
matters  was  very  imperfect.  We  made  known  to  him  our 
wish  that  the  Esquimaux  should  be  informed  of  our  arrival  as 
soon  as  possible,  and  signified  that  a  very  substantial  present 
would  be  given  to  any  person  that  would  carry  the  intelligence 
to  them  in  the  course  of  the  following  winter.  Mr.  Dease 
pressed  this  point  strongly  on  his  consideration.  This  gentle- 
man, indeed,  was  anxious  to  promote  oar  desires  in  every  re- 
spect, and  promised  that  his  utmost  exertions  should  be  used 
to  procure  a  good  supply  of  provision  for  our  next  summer's 
voyage,  though  he  represented  the  hunters  in  this  vicinity  as 
unskilful  and  inactive,  and  begged  of  me  not  to  rely  too  much 
on  his  collection.  We  left  in  his  charge  five  bags  of  pemmican, 
and  the  superfluous  stores,  to  lighten  the  boats.  We  quitted 
the  fort  in  the  afternoon  with  a  contrary  wind,  and  towed 
twenty  miles  up  the  stream  before  we  encamped,  though  the 
beach  was  composed  of  sharp  stones,  which  rendered  walkine 
very  unpleasant.  * 


56 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


The  wind  being  contrary  during  the  four  following  days,  we 
could  only  ascend  the  river  by  using  the  tracking  line.  Our 
crew  cheerfully  performed  this  tedious  service,  though  three 
of  them  had  been  much  reduced  by  dysentery,  brought  on 
by  previous  fatigue,  exposure  to  wet,  and  by  their  having  lived 
lor  some  time  on  dried  provision.  These  men,  however,  had 
gradually  been  gaining  strength  since  the  fresh  meat  was  pro- 
cured  on  Ellice  Island.  ^ 

I  .?^*^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^*"^  *®  *^^  aspen,  poplar,  and  larch,  in 
latitude  67°  10'  N.,  and  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  ■)b8ei-ve 
the  change  in  their  foliage  within  the  last  fortnight.  Their 
Jeaves  had  assumed  the  autumnal  tint,  and  were  now  fast  falling. 
Xhe  wild  fowl  were  hastening  in  lai^e  flocks  to  the  south,  and 
every  appearance  warned  us  that  the  fine  season  drew  near 
Its  close. 

28th.    ^  In  the  passage  through  the  rampart  defile,  several 
tamilies  of  the  Hare  Indians  were  observed  encamped 
on  the  heights,  for  the  purpose  of  gathering  berries  which  were 
at  this  time  ripe,  and  in  the  best  flavour.    At  the  first  sight 
01  the  boat  the  women  and  children  scampered  down  where- 
ever  descent  was  practicable,  to  get  at  their  canoes,  that  they 
might  cross  over  to  us,  but  we  travelled  so  fast  that  only  a  few 
could  overtake  the  boat.     The  Indians  who  reside  near  this 
river,  from  their  want  of  skill  in  hunting,  principally  subsist, 
from  spring  to  autumn  on  the  produce  of  their  fishing  nets 
and  on  wild  berries.     At  the  influx  of  small  streams,  or  where- 
ever  there  is  any  eddy,  a  net  is  set.   In  shallow  water  it  is  sus- 
pended  upon  sticks  planted  in  a  semicircle,  so  as  to  enclose  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  or  the  sweep  of  the  eddy ;  but  where  the 
water  is  deep,  and  the  shore  bold  or  rocky,  two  stout  poles  are 
farmly  secured  at  a  short  distance  from  the  water's  edge,  the 
breadth  of  a  net  apart,  tc  the  ends  of  which  pliable  rods  are 
lastened,  of  a  length  sufficient  to  hang  over  the  water,  and  to 
these  the  net  is  attached.     In  the  winter  these  Indians  snare 
hares,  which  are  very  ab-indant  in  this  quarter. 
29th.        ^»  *hc  29th  we  arrived  at  the  upper  rapids,  which 
were  scarcely  discernible  at  the  time  of  our  descent; 
but  from  the  falling  of  the  water  since  that  time,  there  was  a 
dry  sand-bank  of  considerable  extent  in  the  centre,  and  the 
waters  on  each  side  of  it  were  broken  and  covered  with  foam. 
Augustus  being  tired  with  tracking,  had  wandered  from  us  to 
the  extremity  of  this  bank,  from  whence  he  could  not  be  ex- 
fnfl    k'!;*'"''"*.^''.^^*  hazard,  unless  by  making  him  return 
.on!     11  ?'2!"  °^  H  \T^'     ^'  ^^''>  however,  would  have 
compelled  the  poor  fellow  to  pass  the  night  upon  the  sand- 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


57 


ins  snare 


ed  at  her  visUors  Vnt  Uhi  1  '  ^- °  ^'5^''  '"mewhat  afarm- 
band  and  s™  1  "'on  .!  T  J'"""'^'/^'^'-  da*,  by  her  hus- 
thai  we  were  des  rou,  „f  1  •"""  "'"'T^"'"'  fro™  our  .igns 
stantly  embirk^d  m"  "^.''^"'"S  """^  «'h  (<>'  supper,  he  in- 
be  e^'v^t"!"™"'  ''VJ'  •""  a»  therproved  to 
bundle  on  whrchshrwaS"^^.'''"'8S«'i  a  pike  out  of  a 
it  was  eyidlfy  reserved  S,f'^°''  P'"^'""'^'^  "«"  "».lhough 

furnished  Ihem  wU^a  mtf  '  w'%°r  "'™'-     '"  ■•"-•»  "« 
some  useful  prlsents     tLw.!' '"PP'"'' '"* '"»''« 'hem 

throughout  thfsry;  at  tvvopr,h^,i;  ™'  "^"'""^'J'  sulto' 
shade  at  66°,  and  at  7g'  wh.'^  '•"IOmeter  stood  in  the 
fraction  of  the  atmolh.™  ,  .<^y»«d '»  the  sun.  The  re- 
be  unusua n.'grea  s£  we'  7!!'''  7"  'j'!"'*''"  '■''"»*^<i  t« 
this  day  parti?7a  i;  poJrfid''' |hi'l*''f  Mackenzu,,  was 
ed  into  the  most  extraord?n»rv  i        """""'ains  were  distort- 

river,  which  we  knew  to  be  onl  f '""''.K-  ""  ^^"^'  "''"'« 
appeared  to  ha^e  su^h  ,n  eley^.^rtht''^ '°  tA ''^'"''S''' 
impossible  for  us  to  recognte  the  S  Th""  ''T  '"=™ 
cooler  in  the  evening    =nA  it      .        i    ''^"^  a"  became 

Soon  after  sunsetlKbiee"  s  appeare'dTn'T- ''''  '•'''™«™- 
and  we  enjoyed  the  proS  of  fh  °H'  ^.r*,''"'  P''"P"  f"™- 
ry  that  distinguishes  CS     ^'  ^"«''"^'' '»'"'"'»'°  ««»«■ 

gre^'rfhe  sJth  ^'^^  ^f''  ^'  made  great  pro- 
farcdinth..  The  temperature  of  the  air  Tuesday,  30th. 

:n7t;d.fl   s^rrr/e^teti:^?',''^" '"  ^"°-   ^O^"™'"'^ 
these  unlike  thernu^^ToirdLTp;:  r^h  trs^n"''''  •"" 

not  those  of  the  eastm,  ,id.  A™1'  '"''"''^^  "'*  '"»»'.  but 
rated  than  the  forme  VVe  had  no  ""•/'•"''ably,  less'ele- 
ing  thdr  heieht  thonih  ,„„'"'■  "''"PP.'"'''""'y  "f  ascertain- 
not  exceed  Stiousati  fcet'^^f,"''"  "■=/  *^  ''"■"'^^"iid 
early  part  of  August  '         "'"'  "■*''=  '^^<'"'  snow  in  the 

wafer' of  leM»J'"'"^  "e  quitted  the  muddy 

strtm  I't'Lt^'S'^he'^^^Ar^l,?!^'-'  ;7'-^-'"- 

""•  »'.anow„ess  of  the  water;e;r"rrmo,t '  „'d"'.h7'l^^ac'h 


53 


SECOND  JOUUNEY  TO  THE  SHOUES 


[1825. 


being  a  mere  collection  of  stones,  we  had  to  grope  our  way 
long  after  dark  in  search  of  a  place  for  an  encampment, 
stumbling  and  falling  at  every  step.  At  length  we  espied  a 
light  about  a  mile  further  up  the  river  on  the  opposite  shore ; 
we,  therefore,  crossed  over,  at  the  expense  of  some  heavy 
blows  to  the  boat,  and  tracked  along  the  base  of  a  steep  bank, 
until  we  reached  the  fire.  There  we  found  a  Canadian  and 
two  Indian  boys  who  had  been  sent  from  Bear  Lake  three 
days  before  in  a  canoe,  to  procure  some  white  mud  from  the 
banks  of  the  Mackenzie  to  decorate  our  houses.  This  man 
was  the  bearer  of  a  letter  from  Lieutenant  Back  to  me,  which 
detailed  the  proceedings  at  the  Fort. 

We  embnrked  at  daylight,  having  the  canoe  in 
Friday, 2nd.  ^,Q,^^pany.  The  weather  was  cold  and  raw  through- 
out the  day  ;  the  temperature  from  34°  to  45°  ;  but  the  party 
were  kept  in  constant  exercise,  either  in  tracking  or  walking ; 
the  steersman  and  bowman  only  being  required  in  the  boat. 
Except  where  the  river  was  bounded  by  steep  cliffs,  the  path 
was  pretty  good.  Its  general  breadth  varied  from  three  hun- 
dred to  five  hundred  yards,  and  its  banks  were  tolerably  well 
wooded,  but  the  trees  were  small. 

This  morning  the  ground  was  firmly  frozen, 
Saturday,  3rd.   ^^j  ^^^   thermometer  stood  at  28°,  when  we 

commenced  our  operations.  Early  in  the  afternoon  we 
arrived  at  the  lower  part  of  the  mountain,  and  which  we  had 
kept  in  view  this  day,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  preceding. 
As  we  had  now  to  ascend  a  succession  of  rapids  for  fifteen 
miles,  and  two  of  our  crew  were  lame,  I  directed  the  canoe 
to  be  laid  up  on  the  shore,  and  took  the  Canadian  and  the  boys 
to  assist  at  the  tow-line.  We  had  not  advanced  more  than 
two  miles  before  we  met  with  an  accident  that  was  likely  to 
have  been  attended  with  serious  consequences  :  in  the  act  of 
hauling  round  a  projecting  point,  and  in  the  strength  of  the 
current,  the  tow-line  broke,  and  the  boat  was  driven  with 
great  force  against  a  large  stone  at  some  distance  from  the 
shore,  having  deep  water  on  every  side.  There  it  lay  with 
the  broadside  exposed  to  the  whole  pressure  of  the  cur- 
rent, beating  violently  against  the  stone ;  and  from  this  situa- 
tion it  could  not  have  been  extricated,  had  not  Gustavus 
Aird,  the  strongest  man  of  the  party,  ventured  to  wade  into 
the  river,  at  the  imminent  risque  of  being  swept  off  his  feet, 
until  he  could  catch  the  rope  that  was  thrown  to  him  from  the 
boat.  As  soon  as  it  was  dragged  to  the  shore,  we  found  that 
part  of  the  keel  was  gone,  and  the  remainder  much  twisted, 

tttiii.    UI&    Lxi\.    lets  W  xisx'^<~?    ^^s    tiiO   xxJ\r  x,^\   LmxliEX.     TTviV    i^^Vl--^yi^  v-v#e  ^   ii\.- 


September.]  op  the  polar  sz..  59 

boat  was  again  llctT   The  kal  'Ir.''  "''"'^l'^'  '"^ 

".ight  have  proved  fetaa„d  if  lT„'"^''\"«hf:  a  fake  step 
the  rapids,  we  found  earthvh»rt  ''J"'?  ™''^"'  "'"'"g  Passed 
vices  of  A^gusturanl'teCtan  ,rd"A' ''''"".P^'''-   *^»  ^- 

.he'T^^l^r-it:^''.„»ISJ^t''7''S''V"*e™rning 

the  temperature  grad„™Vr„,e  ,0/4"'''"^'^  ""«  '■"S,  and  then 
At  four  P.M.  vv-«.  arrived  at  fho  f^^t-  '  cj^i. 

firstt.me,all  assembled.  Wehl^rZt  TT  '^°^'  ^°''  ^he 
on  this  circumstance,  and  also  on  h^  congratulated  each  other 
settled  in  our  winter  on«r^PrfKri''°'P^<'^  "^  being  snugly 
Richardson harurve?edth:|^^^^  ^^^*her.    Er 

River,  near  its  N.^Sin^^on'^^  ^^.^^ 
to  the  Coppermine  R^e;'r'fi-r''^  ^t'  ^^ '«  "^^--^^t 
Dease  River  as  the  best  nninf %  1  "P^"  ^^^  ^''^  ^^pid  in 
n;ent  of  the  ExpedlLnlu^d  direct  iS^  '"  '''''''  '''-^^^ 
the  mouth  of  [Ue  Coppernle  R  ^e^  T'?oV'' '"'"^'^  ^^°"^ 
i  he  rapid  was  bv  nhs^.Mror       .  * V         "^^  loJlowmg  season 

gitnde  118°  35'  vVand  H     "• '"  '"'"f  ^"^ '''  Cand  „ t" 
there,  was  47»  29'E  ^  '"''""">"  "'^  «"=  magnetic  needle 


60 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


1 
ii 


THE  FOLLOWING  TABLE  CONTAINS  THE  DISTANCES    TRAVELLED 
BY  THE  EXPEDITION  DURING  THE  SUMMER  OF  1825. 


Principal  Places. 


From  New  York  to  Penetanguishene,  by  the  route  we  travelled 
Lake  Huron  .-.----- 
Lake  Superior     ..------ 

From  Fort  William  to  Cumberland  House  .  -  -  - 
Cumberland  House  to  Fort  Chipcwyan  -  -  - 
Chipewyan  to  Fort  Resolution,  Slave  Lake  -  -  - 
Fort  Resolution  to  the  commencement  of  the  Mackenzie 
Head  of  the  Mackenzie  to  Fort  Simpson  -  .  - 
Fort  Simpson  to  Bear  Lake  River  .  -  .  - 
Bear  Lake  River  to,  and  the  return  from,  Garry  Island 

Length  of  the  Bear  Lake  River  to  the  Fort    -        -        -        - 

Dr.  Richardson's  excursion  to  the  north-east  termination  of 
Bear  Lake         ....---- 

Distance  travelled      .        -        - 

Number  of  Miles  surveyed 


Statute 
Miles. 


760 
25C 
406 

1018 
840 
240 
135 
103 
271 

1206 
91 

483 


5803 


2593 


September.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


61 


CHAPTER  11. 

TRANSACTIONS  AT  FORT  FRANKLIN,  1825-26. 

Mr.  Dease  having  passed  the  winter  of  1824-25  at  the  Big 
Island  of  Mackenzie,  arrived  here  with  fifteen  Canadian  voy- 
agers, Beauheu,  the  interpreter,  and  four  Chipevvyan  hunters, 
f"  *5^.  *.'^^»ty-seventh  of  July,  1825;  which,  on  account  of 
the  driiting  of  the  ice,  was  as  soon  as  he  could,  with  safety, 
ascend  the  Bear  Lake  River.   Several  of  the  Dog-Rib  Indians 
were  on  the  spot,  which  enabled  him  to  take  immediate  steps 
towards  procuring  a  supply  of  dried  meat  for  our  winter  use, 
as  well  as  of  fresh  meat  for  present  consumption.     It  havine 
been  ascertained  that  the  Rein-deer  are  most  abundant  in  the 
north-east  quarter  of  the  lake,  during  the  months  of  August  and 
September,  a  select  party  of  Indians  was  despatched  to  hunt 
thereabout,  under  the  direction  of  the  interpreter,  who  took  a 
large  canoe  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  home  the  produce  of 
their  hunt.     Other  men  were  sent  to  inform  the  Hare  Indians 

0  our  wish  to  purchase  any  meat  they  might  bring  to  the  esta- 
blishment. Our  principal  subsistence,  however,  was  to  be 
derived  from  the  water,  and  Mr.  Dease  was  determined  in  the 
selection  of  the  spot  on  which  our  residence  was  to  be  erected 
by  its  proximity  to  that  part  of  the  lake  where  the  fish  had 
usually  been  abundant.  The  place  decided  upon  was  the  site 
of  an  old  fort  belonging  to  the  North-West  Company,  which 
had  been  abandoned  many  years  ;  our  buildings  beine  required 

01  a  much  larger  size,  we  derived  very  little  benefit  from  its 
materials.  The  wood  in  the  immediate  vicinity  having  been 
all  cut  down  for  fuel  by  the  former  residents,  the  party  was 
obliged  to  convey  the  requisite  timber  in  rafts  from  a  consider- 
able  distance,  which,  of  course,  occasioned  trouble  and  delay. 
We  found,  however,  on  our  arrival,  all  the  buildings  in  a  habit- 
able state,  but  wanting  many  internal  arrangements  to  fit  them 
lor  a  comfortable  winter  residence.  They  were  disposed  so 
as  to  form  three  sides  of  a  square,  the  officers'  house  being  in 
the  centre  those  for  the  men  on  the  right,  with  a  house  for  the 
interpreter's  family,  and  the  store  on  the  left.  A  blacksmith's 
shop  and  meat  store  were  added,  and  the  whole  was  inclosed 

DV  trip  srnrl/arlinir   of  iU^  ^^:,.:.,^i  r.    i        •  •    ■  /.  ..... 

^ ....i^  oi  lUu  uiiij.uai  luii,  wmcn  we  fouiiu  highly 


63 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


serviceable  ni  skreening  us  from  the  snow-diift  and  wintry 
blasts.     The  oflicers'  dwelhng  measured   forty-four  feet  by 
tvyenty-four,  and  contained  a  hall  and  four  apartments,  beside 
a  kitchen.    That  of  the  men  was  thirty-six  feet  by  twenty-three 
and  was  divided  into  three  rooms.     These  buildings  were 
placed  on  a  dry  sandy  bank,  about  eighty  yards  from  the  lake, 
and  twenty-hve  (cet  above  it;  at  the  distance  of  a  half  a  mile 
in  our  rear,  the  ground  rose  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and 
htty  leet,  and  contmued  m  an  even  ridge,  on  which,  though  the 
timber  had  been  felled,  we  found  plenty  of  small  trees  for  fuel 
Ihis  ridge  bounded  our  view  tc  the  north;  and  to  the  west, 
though  confined  to  less  than  two  miles,  the  prospect  was  pretty, 
from  Its  embracing  a  small  lake,  and  the  mouth  of  a  narrow 
stream  that  flowed  in  at  its  head.     Our  southern  view  com- 
manded the  south-west  arm  of  Bear  Lake,  which  is  here  four 
miles  ^ylde,  and  not  deeper  than  from  three  to  five  fathoms, 
except  m  the  channel  of  the  river,  which  conveys  its  waters  to 
the  Mackenzie.   We  had  also,  in  front,  the  Clark-hill,  a  moun- 
tain  about  thirty-six  miles  distant,  which  was  always  visible 
m  clear  vyeather.     When  the  refraction  was  great,  we  saw 
the  tops  of  some  other  hills,  belonging  to  the  range  that  extends 
Irom  Clark-hill  to  the  rapid  in  Bear  Lake  River 

Immediately  under  the  sandy  soil  on  which  the  house  stood, 
there  IS  a  bed  of  tenacious  bluish  clay,  of  unknown  thickness, 
which,  even  in  the  months  of  August  and  September,  was 
firmly  frozen  at  the  depth  of  twenty-one  inches  from  the  sur- 
tace.  No  rocks  were  exposed  in  any  part,  and  wherever  the 
surlace  had  been  torn  up,  a  clayey  soil  appeared.  Many  boul- 
der stones  of  granite,  limestone,  sandstone  and  trap  rocks,  were 
scattered  about  the  lake,  not  far  from  the  shore. 

The  trees  at  some  distance  from  our  fort  consisted  of  black 
and  white  spruce,  and  larch,  generally  small,  though  a  few  of 
the  better  grown  measured  from  four  to  five  feet  in  cirth  and 
were  from  fifty  to  fifty-five  feet  high.     Dr.  Richardson  a'scer- 
tamed,  by  counting  the  annual  rings,  that  some  of  them  in  a 
sound  state,  were  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  old  • 
while  others,  which  were  not  much  greater  in  size,  had  two' 
hundred  and  fifty  rings,  but  these  were  decayed  at  the  heart. 
1  he  officers  had  done  me  the  honour,  previous  to  my  arrival 
of  giving  the  name  of  Franklin  to  the  fort,  which  I  felt  a  grate' 
Jul  pleasure  in  retaining  at  their  desire,  though  I  had  intended 
naming  it  Fort  Reliance.     The  number  of  persons  belonging 
to  the  establishment  amounted  to  fifty:  consisting  of  five  ofli- 
cers,  including  Mr.  Dease;  nineteen  British  seamen,  marines, 
and  vovacrers:  ninn  Canadians  •  f«r»  Fc^, ,.%>,„.,„  .  v>^_.-k  4 


September.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


C3 


four  Chipewyan  hunters ;  three  women,  six  children  and  nn. 
Indian  lad ;  besides  a  few  infirm  Indians  who  reSd  ?ln? 
rary  support    This  party  was  far  too  Ia;ge  to  gl  subs LtX 

C%7:  exTer  enced'  Zt'  ""^  -P^™tende„ce  of  P.Jl 
c,  an  experienced  fisherman,   who  had   two  a<?«»i<»fnnfc 

of  su'^r;'  ^^^'^'^  "PP°'"«  the  house,  and  towardrtretd 

employed  themselves  in  the  sam^Wrvicf  b,^  ?n"    Oohgbuck 
accnsto^ea  .0  hunt  i„  a  wood,  c^oS^th^;;  Ij™  ^  :::i 

»im'^sr™rt:';r[d?:::iz:X'trol"r'!'r^*«''''?^ 

whenevi  the  hunter  filHl^^r  '"  ^""^  '"""'=  ""^  "^^t 
fell  wood  for  fuel  ofhi  1       "  ^?'" '  ">""=  "'^''^  stationed  to 

set  r^plit    t  for  „  e      Tw'oT^j;:   '°  '^  '"'"''•  '"^'^'^'"^ 

Se^'Ts  t^t/rrhot„Xt  Va''s%^:£ft:"/d''"™ 

m  reading,  writina  a„d  rrithm^.t       ^  °/  """■■  'n^tniction, 
most  of  the  Britifh  mrtv     Tt,      '  »'«' 't  was  attended  by 

tions  amongst  the  oflfce^/whTseir  '^""''^  '?  ^"'^  f' 

rm,f atVed  Sl^^ele^vlcf  ^rS  ^l^-^^ 
the  other  eveni»,^  f"?  Xh  „T       ??  ^°'^  """'"S-     'f-  "■> 

appointed,  the  me°„'  fdf  the    L"L'^ru'ro;-.7.".P^''""  ™i 

us,  ui  .J  iiicy  expressed 


64 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


a  wish  to  vary  their  employments,  the  hall  was  at  their  service, 
to  play  any  game  they  might  choose;  and  on  these  occasions 
they  were  invariably  joined  by  the  otlicers.  By  thus  partici- 
pating in  their  amusements,  the  men  became  more  attached  to 
us,  at  the  same  time  that  we  contributed  to  their  health  and 
cheerfulness.  The  hearts  and  feelings  of  the  whole  party  were 
united  into  one  common  desire  to  make  the  time  pass  as  agree- 
ably as  possible  to  each  other,  until  the  return  of  spring  should 
enable  them  to  resume  the  great  object  of  the  Expedition. 

The  ofliccrs  found  employment  in  making  and  registering 
the  thermomctrical,  magnetical,  and  atmospherical  observa- 
tions, which  were  hourly  noted  from  eight  a.m.  to  midnight ; 
and,  in  addition  to  the  duties  which  they  had  in  common,  each 
had  a  peculiar  department  allotted  to  him. 

Lieutenant  Back  had  the  superintendence  of  the  men  ;  and 
the  accurate  drawings  which  he  finished  during  the  winter,  from 
sketches  taken  on  the  voyage,  alFord  ample  proof  of  his  dili- 
gence and  skill.  Dr.  Richardson,  besides  the  duties  of  medi- 
cal officer,  which,  from  the  numerous  applications  made  by  the  l 
natives,  were  not  inconsiderable,  devoted  his  attention  to  na- 
tural history,  as  well  as  to  a  series  of  observations  on  the  force 
of  the  sun's  radiation.  Mr.  Kendall  constructed  all  the  charts 
after  the  data  had  been  recalculated  by  myself;  he  also  made 
several  drawings  ;  and  he  undertook  an  interesting  series  of  ob- 
servations on  the  velocity  of  sound.  To  Mr.  Dease  the  charge 
was  committed  of  whatever  related  to  the  procuring  and  issuing 
of  provision,  and  the  entire  management  of  the  Canadian 
voyagers  and  Indians. 

Previous  to  the  officers  leaving  London,  Dr.  Fitton,  Presi- 
dent of  the  G'iological  Society,  had  the  kindness  to  devote 
much  of  his  time  to  their  instruction  in  geology;  and  having 
furnished  them  with  a  portable  collection  for  the  purpose  of 
reference  on  the  voyage.  Dr.  Richardson,  when  he  had  leisure, 
explained  these  specimens,  weekly,  to  the  party,  and  assisted 
them  in  reading  on  this  science,  which  proved  a  most  agreea- 
ble and  useful  recreation  to  us  all. 

Some  of  the  preceding  remarks  refer  to  a  period  of  our  resi- 
dence later  than  that  which  I  am  about  to  enter  upon;  but  I 
thought  it  best  to  insert  them  here,  that  the  mention  of  them 
might  not  interrupt  the  narrative  of  occurrences  which  I  shall 
now  resume. 

Thur  d     8th        ^^  September  8th,  two  men  were  sent  off  to 
Slave  Lake,  in  a  canoe,  with  a  despatch,  contain- 
ing an  account  of  our  proceedings,  addressed  to  His  Majesty's 


Septernber.j 


or  THE  J'OLAU  .SEA. 


Cd 


Secretary  of  Slate  for  the  Colonic. ;  and  as  wc  expected  letters 
fron.  England,  by  the  way  of  Ilnd.on's  J3av,  thc/^^re  d  S 
ed  to  awa.t  their  arrival  at  Slave  I.ake/  There  was  Tmolt 
constant  rain  from  the  1  Ith  to  the  Mtl,  whicrmLh  re  Ted 
he  work  go.ng  on  out  of  doors,  and  particularly  the  construe- 
tion  of  an  observatory,  which  we  were  desirous  of  cornpSl 
as  soon  as  possible,  that  the  magnetical  observations  St    f 

inLTnSr.  •    ^^'.f""^  employ?nent,  however,  in  whTtew    h- 
•ng  and  fittnig  up  the  .ntcrior  of  the  difrercnt  houses.   The  15tli 

Zv^nt'nl^'Ti'lr'  '  ---li- iine,  and  ascertained 
ine  variation  by  each  of  the  compasses. 

lieauheu  returned  with  his  family,  the  Chipe- 
wyan  hunters,  and  some  Dog-Ribs,  bringing  a  sup-'^^''^'''^^',  20th. 
ply  of  dried  meat,  rein-deer  tongues,  and  fat,  sufficient  for  a 
month's  consumption,  which  wa?  reserved  for  u  e  vvhen  thp 
fishing  should  become  unproductive.  These  m^' rerrt'd 
that  at  the  time  they  quitted  the  northern  shorTsof  tKke' 
IccolTJT  retiring  towards  this  quarter ;  which  inteU^^^^^^^ 

s^vrtu^'^"  '^^^'"° '''-'  ^-^  -^^-  ^4" 

The  chimney  of  the  last  of  the  buildings  beinc 
conipleted  this  morning,  the  flag-stalF  erected,  and     ^"•^"^'  23rd. 
all  the  men  assembled,  we  commemorated  these  events  bv  th^ 

coun^r  T^'r.''''  ^P"r^'  °^  '  --  estabhshme     i/tW^ 
Z    I'     ^^^•''.*  ^^'^  °^  ^'^«  ceremony  was  to  salu  e  the 

our  guns  ornamented  with  blue  ribbons,  and  we^were  ^c^"  ^^^^^^^^ 

me  tidg-statt.  The  men  then  Ored  two  volleys  and  cave  threp 
fune  ^an/''?'  ^^^'-^hich  Wilson  the  piper  Luck  Jp  a  J  vely 
^ne,  and  placing  himself  at  the  head  of  his  comnnni3 
marched  with  them  round  to  (he  entranrn  of  Vl,»  ?  if  ' 

they  drank  to  His  Majesty's  health  an^t^  LeS  ^^^tl" 
Expedition.     In  the  evening  the  hall  was  opened  frrdance 

es  attr  Tllrd '''  ''  *'^  ^'^'^  ^'^^'y^  drLed  in  thdr  ga;: 
nf  f hi  ^'r  •^^^,l'^n<^'»g  was  kept  up  with  spirit  to  the  music 
of  Uie  violm  and  bag-pipes,  until  day-liiiht.    ^  ^ 

Ihese  entertainments  over,  Beaulieu  and  the 
hunters  were  despatched  to  the  chacc,  and  thev     ^^^^'^^y^  26Ui. 
soon  added  two  moose-deer  to  our  store.  ^ 

r^JnlT  I"""''  '""'''^  ''^'"  '"  the  course  of  the 

* ""^o  -.TcuK,  aim  me  icinperaiure  was  gene-  ^"*^'''^'*->'' ^*'*'' 


66 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


rally  mild,  but  a  fall  of  snow  took  place  on  the  27th.  Some 
Dog-Ribs  came  to  the  fort  on  that  day  with  the  produce  of 
their  autumnal  hunt,  which  was  very  inconsiderable,  but  they 
rendered  good  service  to  us  by  taking  away  with  them  several 
of  their  relations,  who  had  been  subsisting  on  our  bounty  for 
some  time.  After  their  departure  there  only  remained  one  man 
of  the  tribe,  who,  being  afflicted  with  rheumatic  fever,  was 
retamed  under  the  care  o^  Dr.  Richardson.  Warm  clothing 
was  provided  for  him,  and  a  comfortable  leathern  lodge  was 
erected  for  himself  and  family, 
o  t  b  ^^^  month  of  October  commenced  with  frost 

c  o  er,  s .  ^^^  snow,  and  the  party  were  now  furnished  with 
fur  caps,  leathern  mittens  and  trowsers,  and  the  rest  of  their 
warm  winter-clothing.  This  day  we  completed  the  erection 
of  the  observatory,  and  adjusted  an  instrument  to  the  magnetic 
meridian,  for  the  purpose  of  observing  the  variations  of  the 
needle. 

Tuesday  11th  Much  SHOW  fell  on  the  night  of  the  7th,  and  on 
the  1  Ith  the  small  lake  was  firmly  frozen  over, 
and  the  ground  in  the  same  state.  All  the  migratory  birds  be- 
ing now  gone,  except  a  few  ducks,  which  still  lingered  in  the 
open  water  of  Bear  Lake,  we  considered  this  day  to  be  the 
first  of  the  winter.  It  was  remarkably  clear  and  fine,  and  we 
hailed  the  commencement  of  this  season  with  a  degree  of  plea- 
sure, from  its  contrast  with  the  wet  unsettled  weather  which 
marks  the  close  of  summer.  A  few  clouds  passing  over  the 
sun's  disk,  produced  an  instantaneous  depression  of  ten  de- 
grees of  the  me'-cury  in  a  thermon-eter  exposed  to  the  sun's 
rays.  The  atmospherical  refraction  was  remarkably  strong  at 
this  time.  We  had  repeated  opportunities,  in  the  course  of 
the  winter,  of  observing  it  to  be  greatest  in  similar  states  of  the 
atmosphere. 

The  boats  were  now  secured  for  the  winter  in  a  sheltered 
place,  and  screened  as  much  as  possible  from  the  effects  of  the 
wind  and  snow  drift,  by  a  strong  fence  made  of  boughs  and 
branches. 

Frida    14th  ^^  ^^^^  surprised  on  the  14th  by  the  arrival 

*  ^'  'of  two  Canadians  from  Fort  Norman,  with  letters 
from  Governor  Simpson,  and  other  gentlemen  :n  the  southern 
districts,  containing  satisfactory  answers  to  the  requisitions  for 
stores  that  1  had  made  in  iny  passage  through  the  country. 
We  were  also  pleased  to  learn  that  Thomas  Matthews,  the 
carpenter,  whom  we  had  left  at  Cumberland  House,  on  ac- 
count of  his  leg  being  broken,  had  reached  Fort  Norman,  in 

:lt\.   --••L.-jii^auj  n  vuuw;  ,    aUU  l  icil  lUU'CIl  inuCUlCU  lU  iTXi'.  t7UUlCS 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


67 


October.] 

Keith,  and  Mr.  Smith,  Ghief  Factors,  for  the  care  and  tender- 
ness with  which  they  had  conveyed  him  through  the  country. 
1  he  season  at  which  the  ice  begins  to  form,  is  the  mcst  fa- 
vourable for  fishing  in  the  lakes  of  this  country,  and  we  then 
procured  from  four  to  five  hundred  daily.  Those  not  required 
lor  immediate  consumption,  were  hung  on  a  stage  to  freeze,  in 
which  state  they  keep  until  the  following  spring.     But  we 
could  not  derive  the  full  advantage  from  the  season,  because 
the  drift  ice,  making  it  unsafe  to  keep  the  nets  set  in  Bear 
i.ake,  they  were  taken  up  on  the  1 8th.  Near  a  month  elapsed 
betore  they  could  be  set  with  safety  under  the  ice ;  our  first 
attempts  resulting  in  the  loss  of  three  nets.    We  procured, 
however,  a  few  fish  from  the  small  lal^e,  during  this  interval 
and  the  rest  of  our  food  was  supplied  from  the  store  of  dried 
meat. 

We  were  visited  on  the  20th  by  a  storm  of 
snow,  which  continued,  without  intermission  Thursday,  20th. 
for  thirty-six  hours.  Although  it  put  an  end  to  the  .kating! 
and  the  games  on  the  ice,  which  had  ^.een  our  evening' 
amusement  for  the  preceding  week,  yet  the  change  made 
every  one  glad,  because  the  snow  was  now  deep  enough  for 
winter  travelling.  We  had  learned,  some  days  before?  that 
!h!  oo""iT  ^^^  '^""'^^  F*^^"  '^'''-^^^'  in  the  woods,  aid  on 
to  the  forf  "'"'^''  were  despatched  with  sledges  to  bring  them 

f  n  TIr  ^f  throw  off  of  the  dog-sledges  for  the  season  never  fails 
to  attract  general  attention;  accordingly  the  whole  party  was 
collected  to  witness  it  on  this  occasion."^  They  set  off  at  full 
speed,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight.   From  this  time  dog-sledges 
were  used  to  drag  the  fuel,  which  had  been  hitherto  done  bv 
the  men    We  sent  a  party  to  cut  down  timber,  and  saw  it  intb 
planks,  fat  for  the  construction  of  another  boat. 
On  the  26th  the  thermometer  first  fell  below 
zero,  but  the  month  closed  with  a  very  calm  ^^<^°=^^ay,  26tli. 
mild  day     Mr  Kendall  and  I  were  employed'in  measuring  a 
geographical  mile  on  the  small  lake,  preparLry  t^a  seS 
observations  on  the  velocity  of  sound.     The  only  ferine  com 
panions  we  now  had  were  a  few  hardy  quadrupeds  and  W?dT 
capable  of  enduring  the  winter.     The  variety  ^  the  forme; 
was  confined  to  wolves,  foxes,  martens,  hares,  mice,  and  aTew 
rem-deer.     Of  the  feathered  tribe,  there  were  the  raven  and 
Canadian    crow,  some  snov/-birds,  wood-peckers,  red-caos 

h^tto^X'^'  ''^'^  ^"'  ^^"^^  P-^'^^-'  -^  ^^'w 
Having  received  information  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 


68 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 

pany  intended  sending  their  annual  despatch  from  the  Mac- 
kenzie River  to  York  Factory,  by  the  close  of  this  month, 

November  9th  *"^    *^^   *^^   ^^  ^^^^    ^^^^  *"^    **^®  ^^^' 

'      ■       kenzie  River  being,  on  the  9th,  sufficiently 

strong,  we  forwarded  a  packet  of  letters  to  Fort  Norman, 
and  a  dog-sledge  to  convey  Thomas  Matthews  to  this 
place.  On  the  1 5th  the  nets  were  reset  under  the  ice,  and 
we  were  relieved  from  the  necessity  of  putting  the  party  on 
short  allowance.  We  had  the  additional  pleasure  of  learning 
that  the  hunters  had  killed  ten  rein-deer.  The  men  returned 
from  Fort  Norman  on  the  18th,  accompanied  by  Thomas 
Matthews,  whose  leg  was  yet  too  wcik  for  him  to  walk  more 
than  a  short  distance. 

During  the  middle,  and  towards  the  close  of  November, 
parheliae  were  frequent ;  the  most  brilliant  appeared  on  the 
27th ;  it  continued  as  long  as  the  sun  was  above  the  horizon. 
The  atmosphere  was  cloudless,  and  apparently  free  from  haze, 
except  just  about  the  sun,  which  seemed  to  gleam  through  a 
fog.  The  surrounding  circle  was  nearly  complete,  and  dis- 
played the  prismatic  colours  vividly;  from  the  centre  of  the 
sun's  disk  a  beam  of  bright  light  extended  upwa.ds  several  de- 
grees beyond  the  circle.  The  inner  radius  of  the  circle  mea- 
sured  21°  34',  and  the  outer  22°  50'.  The  wind  blew  fresh  all 
the  day  from  E.N.E.,  and  the  temperature  was  10°.  In  the 
evening  the  moon  was  encircled  by  two  distinct  halos :  temper- 
ature 7°.  ^ 

Tuesday,  29th.     ry  T^'^  ^J"^^^^^  the  principal  leader  of  the  Dog- 
Kibs,  and  a  large  party  of  his  tribe,  came  to  the 
Fort.     It  is  usual  for  Indians,  on  the  first  visit  to  an  establish- 
ment, to  make  their  approach  in  line,  with  much  formality;  but 
on  this  occasion  our  visitors  showed  an  unusual  degree  of  cau- 
tion.    Their  distrust  had  originated  in  a  very  trifling  occur- 
rence at  the  close  of  our  house-warjning  festivities  on  the  23rd 
of  September.  Some  of  the  Canadians  having  asked  Mr.  Dease 
if  our  Ilighlandmen  did  not  come  from  the  same  country  with 
the  rest  of  the  English  party,  were  told  that  they  were  natives 
of  the  mountainous  lands,  or  Montagnards.     This  name  unfor- 
tunately being  used  by  the  voyagers  to  designate  the  Dog-Ribs, 
was  considered  by  the  Highlanders  to  be  a  term  of  reproach 
when  applied  to  themselves,  and  a  scuflie  ensued.    Harmony 
was  soon  restored  by  the  officers  sending  the  most  noisy  to  bed, 
and  next  morning  the  true  meaning  of  the  word  Montagnard 
was  explained  to  the  Highlandmen,  and  the  party  set  about 
their  usual  occupations  with  their  wonted  good  feeling  towards 
each  other.     Not  so  with  an  unlucky  Dog-Rib,  who  had  been 


November.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


69 


blow     This  at  once  confirmed  all  his  fears  and  hp  X^  f 
spread  a  report  amongst  his  countrymen  that  Hp  wh^f!    ^  ^ 
intended  to  destroy  the  Indiin.      Alfh.     ,l\^^  ^n^te  people 

ent, rely  removed  by  the  expla,  atior>re  iv^fc.'H-"^^ 

tr.^f;Syt.e°--f.:v-o'^^^^^^^ 

instead  of  caTrrinI  th™  to  pi?  n'  "'"''  t"'^  ^'  ">'*  ?'«"=«. 
suggestion,  and^dKd  M  .  Dease  to°aS  '  T"'^^''  '»  ""« 
the  goods  required  for  the  putchase  of  thlZ  T  T  '""•'' 
be  returned  when  we  shoufd  visirtLt'tt  nlhe't  J'"  '" 

Fo^"^lrLSf;»s^^'i;.^h"r[;i?rr^^^^^ 

couple,  who  were  n^uch  reduced  by  theirTte  S„  fa  e ^ 

Ihe  close  of  November  wa«;  mori.^j  ^'^  at-duiy  lare. 
strong  east  wind,,  andTmild^ess  of  tel^."  succession  of 
season.  On  the  36th  the  tCrorter  rZeTor+'jro  ?*  f^. 

The  ta'cTDe.'  ^'"T"  "''  g"'"  fr- "hetorth  '°  '' 
X  ne  nrst  ol  December  being  a  cloudless  tlav 

weendeavoured  to  observe  the  latitude  at  nooT    O'™-"".  i»>. 

Temperature  +  22°,  calm.     On  the  ntht  of  SI  li  ^^*"l"^- 

1  he  fishery  havmg  eraduallv  dorlinpH  fZ^  ?" 

nets  were  removed  nearerto  tE  en?  ance  ofVp""r  ^'^o'-  ^"^ 

where  the  current  continued  to  £p  the  water  o'^'^r''^^' 
considerab  e  snace      Wf^  fKo«       "^^^P  me  water  open  for  a 

sufiicient  for  the  rations  of  the  C'Tu'  ^^'^^  ^"PP^^  "^  A^h 
though  our  number  w  Iw  i 'cTeased  bv'fl  "'"  f  f'  '^^^' 
more  distant  fishery,  which  had  nrnvpH^  ^  ?^''^^  ^''°'"  ^^« 
allowance  was  seven  of  tho  hnr.  -^  f  ""P^-oductive.  The 
and  two  to  each  do^         '"  '''"'"«  '^^"'^^^  to  a  man  per  day, 

The  shortness  of^the  days  now  precluding  the  Indians  from 


■■■ 


70 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


hunting,  many  came,  according  to  their  custom,  to  spear  fish 
at  the  head  of  Bear  Lake  River,  and  their  numbers  gradually 
increased.  They  were  not,  however,  successful,  nor  diligent, 
preferring  to  beg  what  they  could  from  us,  and  sending  their 
women  and  children  to  subsist  on  the  offal  of  the  fish  used  at 
the  fort.  To  encourage  them  to  greater  exertion,  I  provided 
them  with  nets,  and  other  fishing  materials,  but  their  indolence 
led  them  to  make  a  very  ungrateful  return ;  for  on  several  oc- 
casions they  emptied  our  nets  in  the  night,  and  thus  not  only 
robbed  us  of  what  they  took  away,  but,  by  deranging  the  nets, 
deprived  us  of  the  whole  of  that  day's  supply.  We  never 
could  ascertain  the  perpetrators  of  these  thefts.  The  blame 
was  invariably  thrown  on  some  aged  and  infirm  men,  who  de- 
nied it.  Notwithstanding  the  straits  to  which  they  became 
reduced,  they  could  not  be  persuaded  to  go  off  to  a  more  pro- 
ductive fishery,  until  we  were  compelled  to  withhold  all  sup- 
plies, from  fear  of  starving  our  own  party.  These  Indians 
showed  more  indolence,  and  less  regard  for  truth  and  honesty, 
than  any  other  tribes  with  which  we  had  dealings.  Their  suf- 
ferings are  often  extreme,  and  some  of  them  perish  every  year 
from  famine ;  although,  from  the  abundance  of  fish  in  this 
country,  but  slight  exertion  would  be  required  to  lay  up,  at 
theproper  seasons,  a  stock  for  the  whole  year. 

Thi;  difficulty  of  procuring  nourishment  frequently  induces 
the  women  of  this  tribe  to  destroy  their  female  children.  Two 
pregnant  women  of  the  party  then  at  the  fort,  made  known 
their  intention  of  acting  on  this  inhuman  custom,  though  Mr. 
Dease  threatened  them  with  our  heaviest  displeasure  if  they 
put  it  into  execution :  we  learned  that,  after  they  left  us,  one 
actually  did  destroy  her  child  ;  the  infant  of  the  other  woman 
proved  to  be  a  boy.  Infanticide  is  mentioned  by  Hearne  as  a 
common  crime  amongst  the  northern  Indians,  but  this  was  the 
first  instance  that  came  under  our  notice,  and  I  understand  it 
is  now  very  rare  amongst  the  Chepewyan  tribes ; — an  im- 
provement in  their  moral  character  which  may  be  fairly  attri- 
buted to  the  influence  of  the  traders  resident  among  them. 

On  the  18th  a  party  of  sixteen  Hare  Indians, 
Sunday,  18th.  ^^^  Copper  Indians,  and  a  Loucheux,  arrived 
with  sledges  of  dried  rein-deer  meat  and  furs.  While  the  house 
was  in  confusion  from  the  unpacking  of  their  lading,  a  melan- 
choly scene  took  place,  which  excited  the  warmest  sympathy. 
The  wife  of  one  of  our  Dog-Rib  hunters  brought  her  only 
child,  a  female,  for  medical  advice.  As  she  entered  the  room 
it  was  evident  that  the  hand  of  death  was  upon  it.  In  the  ab- 
sence of  Bf.  Richardson,  who  happened  to  be  out,  all  the 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


72 


December.] 

remedies  were  applied  that  were  judged  likely  to  be  of  service  • 

othpfr^?"  ^'  ^^  '!*"?'?'  *^"'^  ^^^"S  y^^  ^  fai«t  pulsation; 
Ih    rf.f  ^^^!,*"e^'  ^^^  >n  vain.     So  gentle  was  its  last 
sigh,  that  the  mother  was  not  at  first  aware  of  its  death   and 
contmued  to  press  the  child  against  her  bosom.     As  'soon 
however,  as  she  perceived  that  life  had  fled,  she  cast  herself 
,W  5!i      J  /"  ^^?"^'  ^^'ghtened  by  the  consciousness  of  hav- 
ing delayed  to  seek  relief  till  too  late,  and  by  apprehension 
of  he  anger  of  her  husband,  who  was  doatingl/attE  to  Ihe 
bvsn;nrU!5     ?'  ^""'""^  *^?*'  participation  in  her  affliction 
A^the  dawn  nf^'T  ^^P^^««»«»  «f  pity  in  their  countenances, 
bv  hpr  r^r  1     ''f^  *^^  P?^''  ^'^^*"^^'  though  almost  exhausted 
foHnterment''  ^"'"'"*"*^""'  ^^^"^^  the  body  across  the  lake 

The  20th  being  a  very  stormy  day,  we  were 
surprised  at  the  arrival  of  two  voyagers  from  Tuesday,  20th. 
Fort  Good  Hope,  bearers  of  letters  from  Mr.  C.  Dease,  convev- 
ing  the  graffymg  intelligence  that  the  Loucheux  had  seen  t?e 
Esquimauxsince  the  autumn,  and  that  the  latter  had  found  he 
presents  which  had  been  left  at  their  huts,  and  would  be  de^ 
lighted  to  welcome  the  return  of  the  white  people  to  the  Es- 
quimaux  lands  next  spring.  ^    ^  ^ 

thP.'iu  ^«"«tant  occupations  had  made  the  time  pass  so  swiftly 
hat  the  shortest  day  came  almost  unexpectedly  upon  us    The 
sun  rose  this  morning,  (the  22d,)  at  lO^  24'" 
thirteen  minutes  earher  than  its  appearance    Thursday,  22d. 
mTS'flr  calculation,  owing^^o  the  great  refraction. 
11        -^u  J  ^"^  '  measured  its  meridional  altitude  from  tho 
ake  with  two  instruments,  the  one  bringing  its  upper  hmb  to 
the  top  of  the  land  four  miles  distant,  the  flevaS  of  which 
had  been  ascertained  to  be  eight  minutes,  and  the  other  toTts 
base,  the  depression  of  which  was  two  minutes.     The  mean  of 
.n  t  r  fT?!'""'"'  ^rrected  for  refraction  by  thrtables 
\-t  i^^!'*^''^*  Almanack,  gave  a  result  of  65°  U'  56'' N 

mad'e    n  the'  ''"!l^  ''""P«^^^^  ^''^  '"^^  best  observation^ 
Si!    ^  *^t  P^'^ced'ng  autumn.     At  8"  30™  p.m.  a  halo  was 
observed,  whose  radius  measured  28°  40'  from  the  moon    Tnd 
at  an  equal  altitude  with  the  latter  body  there  wer^two  n!" 
selen^,  which  as  well  as  the  moon,  werSrlected  by  a  u 

,794^",5""^'Th;r^r^""*V^^  its  centre,  a"fa  dl^fml" 
h\,,  u  *.  .u  ,  '^"Sth  of  our  shortest  da/  did  not  exceed  fivp 
^nnn'i\"f  the  long  nights  wcrc  enlivened  by  mo?  brilliant 
tTelut '  Wril^ter^l  ''''  fineV~^of 
its  grandest  di.;:i:J:-on  t  S oi^X^  ^^^Z^^ 


72 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


h 


ber,  and  the  7th  of  December.     On  all  these  occasions  the 
disturbed  motions  of  the  magnetic  needle  were  very  remarka- 
ble, and  a  most  careful  series  of  observations  convinced  the 
party  that  they  had  a  close  connexion  with  the  direction  of 
the  beams  of  light  of  which  the  aurora  was  composed.     My 
observations  also  led  me  to  conclude  that  the  deviations  of  the 
needle  were,  in  a  certain  degree,  connected  with  changes  in 
the  weather;  for,  previous  to  a  gale  or  a  snow-storm,  the  de- 
viations were  always  considerable;  but  during  the  continuance 
of  the  gale,  the  needle  almost  invariable  remained  stationary. 
Preparations  were  made  for  the  celebration  of  Christmas. 
The  house  vi^as  replastered  with  mud,  all  the  rooms  white- 
washed and  repainted,  and  Matthews  displayed  his  taste  by 
ornamenting  a  chandelier  with  cut  paper,  and  trinkets.     On 
the  evening  of  the  24th  the  Indian  hunters'  women  and  chil- 
dren were  invited  to  share  in  a  game  of  snap-dragon,  to  them 
an  entire  novelty.     It  would  be  as  difficult  to  describe  the 
delight  which  the  sport  afforded  them  after  they  recovered 
their  first  surprise,  as  to  convey  the  full  effect  of  the  scene. 
When  ihe  candles  were  extinguished,  the  blue  flame  of  the 
burning  spirits  shone  on  the  rude  features  of  our  native  com- 
panions, in  whose  countenances  were  pourtrayed  the  eager 
desire  of  po  ^<  ssing  the  fruit,  and  the  fear  of  the  penalty. 
Christmas  Day  falling  on  a  Sunday,  the  party  were  regaled 
with  the  best  fare  our  stores  could  supply ;  and  on  the  follow- 
ing evening  a  dance  was  given,  at  which  were  present  sixty 
persons,  including  the  Indians,  who  sat  as  spectators  of  the 
merry  scene.     Seldom,  perhaps,  in  such  a  confined  space  as 
our  hall,  or  in  the  same  number  of  persons,  was  there  greater 
variety  of  character,   or  greater  confusion  of  tongues.     The 
party  consisted  of  Englishmen,  Highlanders,  (who  mostly  con- 
versed  with  each  other  in  Gaelic,)  Canadians,  Esquimaux, 
Chipewyans,  Dog-Ribs,  Hare  Indians,  Cree  women  and  chil- 
dren, mingled  together  in  perfect  harmony.     The  amusements 
were  varied  by  English,  Gaelic,  and  French  songs.     After 
these  holidays  were  over,  the  Dog-Ribs  at  length  yielded  to  the 
repeated  solicitations  of  Mr.  Dease,  and  removed  in  a  body  to 
a  distant  part  of  the  lake,  where  they  now  confessed  the  fishery 
was  more  abundant.     As  the  hunters  were  drawing  rations 
from  our  store,  he  despatched  them  in  quest  of  deer,  furnish- 
ing them  also  with  nets.     After  which  there  remained  at  the 
establishment,  only  one  infirm  Indian  and  his  wife. 
January   1st  January  1st,  1826.     This  morning  the  men 

called  in  the  hall  to  offer  the  con  ■i.Ttulations  of 
the  season  to  the  officers,  and  we  afterwards  ass(  tsiMed  to  read 


OF  TIJE  I'OLAR  SEA. 


73 


January.] 

wetVeMTtho?"  1^*3/'/'^  ^ '  ^'"^''^  ^-^-"- 
The  temperature  was  at -490  on^^  welcome  the  new  year, 
state  durLZs  Jinlp     Th-  *"  *'*'  '^^'""^  ^^^'ts  lowest 

answer  for  the  latter  n?,!^       I  1   ^^  ?""'*  ^^^^  ^^at  would 

the  more^nterestingS  ^^^'^^ 

been  kind  enough  to^forward  nZTf  ''^*'°"''  ^""  ^"^»^«  had 
periodical  publicat  ons  ^fhe  ?Q^L  f  ^^^S^^P^rs,  and  several 
Eurgh  PhilosophicTJour?a^  ?nd  i^'^^^^'^^T''  ^^  '  ^din- 
Gazette/ and tL«MeScs']Cl-  'T''  ^^  ^^^  'Literary 
table,  and  affi,rded  us  ?he  Sofe^  spread  upon  thi 

as  never-failing  topics  for  ^onvS^  amusement,  as  well 
friends  have  dfopp^ed  in  upon  uHn  1";  ^'-^^  \">^  «^  °"^ 
have  found  us  discussing  Sfe  event  nff^r"'"^'  *^"J^  ^*>"^<1 
all  the  earnestness  and  ktererwh?rh  ^  ^^"^^^^ 
had  they  been  the  occurrenceTofThp  H  ""^  T}^  ^^^^  ^^^'^^ 
our  decision.  This  vZablp  Ll  *  i^Y'  ^"^  depended  upon 
way  through  the  inteSr  owln^/L  I^  ""t  ^"^»  '««*  ««  its 
The  fellow  had  undertaken  to^^^^^^  '"^ian. 

the  Hudson  Bay  Company  whf  h.V  f -^^  u'^^""  '^^^^"^s  of 
Factory  to  CumberlaTd  B^'uTe    but..    '"  '""?"'  ^'^"^  ^^^'^ 
unusual  to  forward  packets  atlh'.f  1  '"PP^^'ng?  from  its  being 
something  of  value  he  spIpV       ^^'*'"'  *^^'  ^^  "'"st  contain 
men  had^ne  a  httt  way  torn  Sfr^""'^^  ^^^n  the  two 
canoe,  with  its  contents,  and  cToTs  the  riv^  "t.;  '"  '"'^^  '^' 
means  of  pursuit,  and  the  poor  me„  deSp    f  ^''t  """'^  "° 
a  gun,  or  even  the  means  of  Sn^      j^  ^  ''^^°''^'  ^'^hout 
march  to  the  nearest  estab  ishmTntthrou^r'  '"'''  "'^^'S^^  *« 
thick ly-wooded  country.     ThTy  r^Iched^  ^^  "^-f  ^  '"^^ed  and 
travelhng,  and  much  siiffi^rin^     ^^      ^  ^^  ^^^er  many  days 
Mr.  Mackintosh    the  chtf  o^f  the  Z  'T  ''  "^^^  ^^'ve^d 
sent  off  differen    parties  t  search  nffK'^'"?*'  immediately 
not  find  him,  though  theVgorpo^tssfo^'f^h^''''  ,  ^^^y  ^'^ 
was  torn  open,  and  the  itters  sca^Z7f  the  packet,  which 
need  hardly  meaiion  ihaf    aft^rvv.^^^^    "^^""-  ^^'''  ground,     I 

1  aUerwards  remunerated  (j,e  Ca- 


74 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1 820. 


nadians  for  their  sufierings  and  good  conduct  on  this  occa- 
sion. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22nd  we  perceived  a 
Sunday,  22nd.  ^^^^  ^^j^  crossing  the  lake,  and  Augustus  and 

Ooligbuck  went  in  pursuit.  The  speed  of  the  animal,  how- 
ever, so  much  outstripped  theirs,  that  it  cooly  halted  to  snap 
up  an  unfortunate  fox  which  happened  to  cross  its  path,  and 
bore  it  off  in  triumph.  The  visits  of  this  animal  were  repeated 
for  three  successive  days,  and  it  at  last  became  so  bold  as  to 
steal  fish,  on  two  occasions,  from  a  sledge  which  the  dogs  were 
accustomed  to  draw  home  from  the  nets,  without  a  driver. 
The  does  were  not  touched,  but  this  was  accounted  for  when 
the  wolF  was  killed,  and  found  to  be  a  female,  as  Mr.  Dease 
informed  us  th^it  at  this  season  of  the  year  the  female  wolves 
never  attack  the  dog. 

The  month  of  February  was  a  very  anxious  period 
February.    ^^  ^^^  winter's  residence.    The  produce  of  the  nets 
and  fishing  lines  had  been  gradually  diminishing  during  Janu- 
ary, until  the  supply  did  not  afford  more  than  three  or  four  of 
the  small  herrings  per  man ;  and  none  could  be  furnished  to 
the  dogs.   The  stock  of  dried  meat  was  expended,  and  serious 
apprehensions  were  entertained  of  the  party's  suffering  from 
want  of  food.   The  fish  too,  from  being  out  of  season,  afforded 
very  little  nourishment,  and  frequent  indisposition  was  the 
consequence  with  us  all.  Three  of  the  stoutest  men  with  whom 
this  diet  particularly  disagreed,  suffered  very  much  from  diarr- 
hoea.   It  became,  therefore,  necessary  to  draw  upon  the  stores 
of  provision  which  had  been  set  apart  for  the  voyage  along  the 
sea-coast,  and,  on  the  6th,  we  despatched  three  sledges  to  Fort 
Norman,  for  some  pemmican,  arrow  root,  and  portable  soup : 
they  were  likewise  to  bring  any  iron  that  could  be  procured 
from  that  establishment  fit  for  being  converted  into  nails  or 
fastenings  for  the  intended  boat.    This  being  the  last  opportu- 
nity of  the  season  for  forwarding  letters  to  the  southci  n  depart- 
ment, 1  wrote  to  Governor  Simpson  and  the  council  at  York 
Factory,  requesting  that  supplies  of  provisions  might  be  stored 
for  the  Expedition,  on  the  route  to  Canada  and  York  Factory, 
and  that  the  necessary  means  of  conveyance  might  be  pro- 
vided for  its  return  in  1 827.  All  these  arrangements  requiring 
to  be  made  a  year  in  advance,  1  included  the  whole  party 
in  the  estimate  of  the  numbers  to  be  provided  for,  that  there 
might  be  no  want  of  provision,  if  the  western  part  of  the  Ex- 
pedition should,  from  any  cause,  be  obliged  to  retrace  its  steps. 
By  the  same  conveyance  I  sent  an  account  of  our  proceedings, 
with  mans  and  drawings,  to  be  forwarded  to  the  Colonial 
Office. 


i 


February.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


75 


I    ?"  iH^*?  *^^  **"'"  '"®"*'^'  ^'^e"  all  were  hearti-  „      , 

Jy  tired  of  short  allowance,  a  report  was  brought  ^''^"'^•'y' 4th. 

ot  the  traces  of  a  moose  deer  having  been  seen  about  twelve 
miles  from  the  fort.  Had  the  days  been  longer,  and  a  crust 
formed  upon  the  snow,  the  hunters  would  have^foinrno  gJea 

Jay  in  their  getting  within  shot  without  «  raising  it,"— the  ex- 
pression  uaed  when  a  deer  is  scared.   Beaulieu  being  the  mos 

bv^^woTr"\""^''  y"''"^  ^"*  «"  ^h'«  «"«-«>".  acc^ompared 
ter  When  fh  ^"'^ -^  ^^^Pewyan  lad,  and  a  Dog-Ri^  hun- 
it  Ld  K  -^  .^'"''^.^  °"  ^'^^  Peer's  track,  they  found  that 

veredV^tr-^'P?^'^'^  ^^  '^'  Indians' whi  first  disco' 
r/n..i  Vi?     ^"^'°"^  t°  P''°"-"*"e  meat  for  the  fort,  they  com- 

S!/f  K  '  ?"^.?^*^.^  winding  course  it  takes,  they  were  ena- 
bled  to  shorten  the  distance ;  but  after  running  four  successiVe 

fatfov'^pf r*  r'""'^  "  ^'S'^*'  ^^^""^"  ^'^  the  misfortu,  e  lo 
fwo  hunter  h*-'"P  ""^  ■  ^T '  ^"^.^P^^'"  ^'  ^"k'«?  the  other 
hroDened  ?hPv  t^  prey.ously  tired  out.  When  this  accident 
w?uW  ,nnn  ^^  "^T  ^^^^  "^-^'^  "^^^  ^he  deer,  and  that  it 
bloni  R  ^l''^  '1'  ^""^"'^  '^^  ^°°t«t^Ps  were  stained  with 
Sn.H  .  M"''\"'  ^^'''^^"^'  «"  ^«^°""t  of  his  lameness,  re 
turned  to  the  house,  and  his  companions  came  with  him 
During  the  chase  they  bivouacked  on  the  snow,  and  subsis  S 

rest  a^l^t^'^"  ^^'^  '^'^  '^^"^^-  Landre'after  a  night's 
rest,  again  set  out,  and  was  successful  after  two  more  lav', 
runmng;  not,  however,  without  having  nearly  S  Ws  life  for 
the  moose,  on  receiving  a  shot,  madi  a  rush  at  him  rikin^ 
furiously  with  his  fore  feet.     He  had  just  time  to  shdter  S 

hf gt'^'as^^^^^^^^  rd^  ^^^  ^'^  ^"^'^^^  ^p-*  ^^^  ^^-^^'  ^^ 

wa^Sii7/ft'i  "^'^^  *^^  joyful  intelligence  of  his  success, 
was  hailed  as  the  commencement  of  a  season  of  plentv    When 
the  moose  meat  was  brought  in,  we  had  not  an  ounce  of  nro 
vision  in  store,  and  t  was,  therefore,  most  acceptableTalthou^gh 
fronj  the  manner  m  which  it  was  hunted  down,  it  Proved  S-' 
ceedingly  tough.     In  the  evening,  to  increase  o  r  sat  Sion 
an  Indian  arrived  with  the  information  that  the 
tish  were  plentiful  at  the  station  to  which  the  Dog-  ^"'^'^y-  ^Oth. 

Vh.\^fi  'ATui'  '"^  ^'''."^''"  ^h^t  the  hunters  belonging  to 
the  fort  had  ki  led  some  rein-deer  near  their  lod-cs      Welm 
mediately  equipped  four  men  with  nets  and  lines  and  sent 
them  back  with  the  Indian,  giving  them  directas^o  Jepor 

reoorf  '  T'T'^^".'  '""'^  gain^ubsistence  there      The 
report,  a  few  days  afterwards,  being  favourable,  four  \norl 


^'Wlr^ 


76 


SECOND  JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


n 


[182G. 

men  were  despatched  thither.  They  sent  us  some  tittameg, 
weighing  from  six  to  eight  pounds,  which  were  the  more  ac- 
ceptable, because  none  of  that  kind  had  been  taken  in  our 
nets  since  the  lake  had  been  frozen  over.  By  the  time  the 
moose  was  finished,  the  men  came  back  from  Fort  Norman, 
with  three  bags  of  pemmican,  which  enabled  us  to  continue 
the  daily  issue  of  rations,  though  the  fare  was  still  scanty. 

Saturday,  25th        ^"  *^®  ^^^^'  Beaulieu,  accompanied-  by  two 
mr  rvvent  off  in  one  direction,  and  the  Dog- 
Rib  hunters  in  nisotftcr  '%  search  of  deer.     Both  parties  were 
successful.     From  the  Ibimer  we  received  a  summons,  after 
four  days'  absence,  to  send  sledges  for  meat,  but  not  so  from 
the  Dog-Ribs,  for  they,  to  compensate  for  their  long  abstinence, 
consumed  almost  all  the  meat,  and  gorged  themselves  to  such 
a  degree,  that  they  were  unable  to  mnvr  and  became  quite  ill. 
From  this  period  we  had  a  suHkient  supply  of  provision,  be- 
cause the  fisheries  improved,  and  we  received  deer  from  time 
to  time.     The  men  who  had  been  indisposed  gained  strength, 
from  the  increased  quantity,  and  amended  quality,  of  their 
food  ;  and  we  had  also  the  gratification  of  seeing  the  dogs  daily 
fatteii,  amidst  the  general  plenty.     The  conduct  of  the  men 
during  the  season  of  scarcity  was  beyond  all  praise  ;  and  the 
following  anecdote  is  worthy  of  record,  as  displaying  the  ex- 
cellent feeling  of  a  British  seaman,  and  as  speaking  the  senti- 
ments of  the  whole  party.     Talking  with  Robert  Spinks  as  to 
the  difference  of  his  present  food,  Yrom  that  to  which  he  had 
been  accustomed  on  board  ship,  I  said  I  was  glad  the  necessity 
was  over  of  keeping  them  on  short  allowance.     «  Why,  sir," 
said  he,  «  we  never  minded  about  the  short  allowance,  but 
were  fearful  of  having  to  use  the  pemmican  intended  for  next 
summer ;  we  only  care  about  the  next  voyage,  and  shall  all  be 
glad  when  the  spring  comes,  that  we  may  set  off;  besides,  at 
the  worst  time,  we  could  always  spare  a  fish  for  each  of  our 
dogs."    During  the  period  of  short  allowance,  the  three  dogs 
under  the  charge  of  this  man  were  kept  in  better  condition  than 
any  of  the  others. 

We  now  called  the  men  home  from  the  nearest  fishery,  and 
set  their  nets  near  the  Bear  Lake  River,  but  the  men  at  the 
distant  station  with  the  Indians  were  kept  there,  and  occasion- 
ally supplied  the  fort  with  fine  tittameg  and  trout.  The  otters 
did  considerable  mischief  to  our  nets  at  this  time  ;  six  of  these 
animals  were  seen  in  one  day. 

Manj  parheliac  were  observed  this  month.  On  the  l^h,  at 
forty.five  minutes  after  nine  a.m.,  the  arched  form  of  the  clouds, 
and  the  appearance  of  a  collection  of  rays  projected  from  the 


February.] 


OF  THE  rOL,  R  SEA, 


77 


en  in  our 


inS^es\ZlTL\  ^^^  atmosphere  was  misty;  temperature 
ZT^ltu  "^  ^  ^ '  ^"'^  ^^^"  ^^^  thermomciter  with  a  black- 
ened  bulb  was  oxposed  to  the  sun's  rays,  it  rosT  to  +  43° 

a  &:'vlSt  th""^  ^•"'  -- P-c'eived  to  ht^mtde 
»» greaier  v.  viation  to  the  westward  than  usual  at  th^t  h^..- 

from  tSr  'Y  '^t  ^^"^  «f  '^^'  increre  prob  b  ;  arose 
to  Snf  n    riP- "^'^  ^'^•"g  t'^^"*"  estate  of  electricity  simUar 
on  whi ' h"^*"''^  .** "  ^*^^"  ''^^  ^"'•^'•^  appears  in  hazy  weXr 
Wt  sl?onrt"^TW-^''^  observid^hat  its  co^rlcaS 
A  vfolTnf  1  r?    ^^^f  *  '"  *^^"^'"g  aberration:  of  the  needle 
nnrti  ?/^'\^''^'"  *^«  north-west  commenced  on    he  2eth 
and  lasted  without  intermission,  for  thirty.s?xhoui^  ' 

a  Jrrl''''^r\^^/^'^  '"onth  was  marked  by 
a  succession  of  gales  from  the  N.W.,  with  a  few  in-     March,  1st. 
tervals  of  moderate  weather,  in  which  the  winH  /.,„«  c       .u 
east,  and  was  attended  by  a  dearer  atmos^LetZ  ^'^'^  ^t 
accompanies  easterly  winds  in  the  corer^montS     W  "' k^ 

wealhe7  Slt.  fiT.H*'^  ^-^'^    brght'^^^^^^^^  s^^e" 

nf  S      i?  u*^®  ?  ^  ^'^  ^^^""^  ^^«  a  violent  gust 

oi  wind,  which,  m  its  passage  over  the  lake,  ga-    ^'^^"'•'Jay,  Hth. 

Dr    Ril  ^'  ^''^^  '".^  *^^^"™"'  ^'-"''^^  t«  that  of  a  waterspout 

reiurned  atter  two  days,  the  snow  being  too  deeo  for  him  t« 
obtain  specimens.     The  description  he  gave  oT-%Z  fr^ 
eminence  nine  miles  behind  the  fort,  iXedLieuJerifR  ?  - 

walk'Vr^'^  '""'T'^  'f  -^  "-«  amtly  rTpaTdlf  ^^^ 
ZIm  l^e  T'^  ^«*raced  the  mountains  on  the  bord/r<,nr 
the  Mackenzie  to  the  west,  a  considerable  poi  tfon  of  Bonr 
Lake  River,  with  the  mountains  near  its  rapids  ClarklHfn 

las  ttniT*^'  '"^  **1"  ^"^^  «^  ^'^^«*^d  landTe\cWng    o"he 
east  till  t'    y  were  lost  in  the  distmce.     To  the  N  F  ihZl 

senT^ln^^'J^u"^^^"  ^"''*^'''  ^h°  had  been  ab- 

sent  since  Chn  tmas,  returned  to  us  with  their  ^"^^''ay,  2m. 

VeTfoirwh'  hlf  h'^^*'^"  ^.  ^^^-^'^  ^''^^hout  twelve 
years  Old,  whu  had  been  deserted  by  her    libp      Wh^n  thlr 

""*      "'^^  =''°"  ""vc  enuoii  lier  sufferings.  They 


7S 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


*'l 


m 


;(   • 


i- 


[1826. 

fed  and  clothed  her,  and  waited  until  she  gained  strength  to  ac- 
company them.     The  wretches  who  had  abandoned  the  poor 
creature,  were  on  their  way  to  a  fishing  station,  which  they 
knew  to  be  very  productive,  and  not  above  a  day's  march 
distant.     She  was  unable  to  keep  the  pace  at  which  they  chose 
to  proceed,  and  having  no  near  relation  but  an  aged  aunt,  who 
could  not  assist  her,  they  left  her  at  an  encampment  without 
any  food.  The  hunters  met  this  party  of  Indians  about  a  month 
afterwards,  when  they  were  living  in  abundance.     The  girl, 
by  that  time,  had  perfectly  recovered  her  strength,  and  they 
desired  that  she  should  be  restored  to  them,  but  the  hunters 
firmly  resisted  their  importunity,  and  one  of  them  adopted  her 
as  his  own  child.     It  is  singular  that  she  was  the  only  female 
of  the  tribe  that  could  be  called  good-looking.     Her  Indian 
name  was  Aton-larree,  which  the  interpreter  translated.  Burnt- 
weed.     Lieutenant  Back  made  a  sketch  of  her,  in  the  dress 
^     which  the  hunter's  wife  gave  to  her  on  their  first  meeting. 
When  the  Indians  came  to  the  fort,  I  took  the  first  opportunity 
of  their  being  assembled  in  the  hall,  to  send  for  the  hunters  and 
their  wives,  and  to  reward  them  by  a  substantial  present  of 
clothing  and  ammunition.     I  also  gave  to  them  some  neat  steel 
instruments,  consisting  of  gimblets,  and  other  useful  articles, 
which  they  were  desired  to  preserve,  and  show  to  other  In- 
dians, as  a  testimony  of  our  approbation  of  their  humanity. 
A  present  was  also  bestowed  upon  the  girl,  and  then  the  Dog- 
Ribs  wen  addressed  as  to  their  unfeeling  conduct  towards  her. 
They  listened  t^uietly,  and  merely  stated  her  weakness  as  the 
cause.     There  is  little  doubt  but  that  the  transactions  of  this 
day  were  canvassed  afterwards,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the 
knowledge  of  our  sentiments  gaining  circulation,  may  induce 
a  discontinuance  of  their  inhuman  practices. 

Wednesday,  22nd.        ^J  }^^  ?J^"  ^^°  ^^^  conveyed  our  last 
packet  to  t  ort  Simpson,  we  received  intelli- 
gence that  some  Chipewyans  had  brought  information  to  the 
Athabasca  and  Slave,  Lakes,  of  their  having  seen  many  indica- 
tions of  a  party  of  white  people  on  the  sea  coast  eastward  of 
the  Coppermine  River.     The  report  stated,  that  they  had 
found,  in  tiie  preceding  autumn,  on  the  borders  of  a  river  near 
the  sea-coast,  a  sawpit,  some  saws,  and  axes,  and  a  store  of 
deer's  meat.     There  was  snow  on  the  ground,  and  the  foot- 
steps of  the  party  appeared  recent.  We  concluded  from  these 
statements,  that  Captain  Parry  had  laid  up  his  ships  in  the 
vicinity  of  Bathurst's  Inlet,  and  sent  hunting-parties  up  the 
river  to  augment  his  stock  of  provision.   I  therefore  despatched 
two  men  with  letters  to  Mr.  M'Vicar,  at  Slave  Lake,  contain- 


March.] 


OF  THE  rOLAR  SEA. 


79 


ing  a  series  of  questions,  that  the  matter  might  be  Ihorouchly 
.nvestigated,  and  requested  him  to  transmit  tie  answers  to  the 
Admiralty  I  hkewise  begged  of  him  immediately  to  procure 
a  party  of  Indians  to  go  to  the  spot,  and  convey  a  letter  from 
^Li  1  ^P^'".  ^"""7' '".  ''''^^'  *^^*  *^^y  »"'ght  either  be  em- 
nearest  establishment  for  conveyance  to  England.     Had  the 

f^^m"'R!'°VT^'^.^'  '°°"^''' «°  *^^*  ^  party  could  have  gone 
iZJZl  ^'Sf  *°  ^'^^  P"'"*  "*  ^^'^^  ^^'  ^hips  were,  and  re^ 
rpr?«^n  ^hfT  ^"^  ^u'"  T ''"  ^""*^^'  '  ^^'ould  have  sent  to  as- 
certain  the  fact.     The  idea  of  the  ships  being  on  the  northern 

LTe;n  irrr '*  ?^  '^'''-  ^"^'^^^^'  ^"^  the  Expectation  of  the 

dav  th.  LIT"  ''^  ^^«versation  for  several  days,  and  on  the 
day  the  intelligence  came,  we  celebrated  its  arrival  with  a 
bowl  of  punch.     The  health  of  Captain  Parry,  and  h  sTartv 
as  well  as  that  of  Captain  Beech^y,  was  di^nk  wiSi  effi-' 

We  obtained  obser^-ations  for  the  time,  from 
^hich  It  appeared  that  the  chronometer  No    Thursday,  23rd. 

if?  VooThf/  ^T  *°  the  Expedition  by  my'  friend  the  late 
Mr.  Moore,  had  only  varied  its  rate  two  hundredths  of  a  se- 
cond,  since  the  3rd  of  November.   I  had  worn  it  next  my  sk  n 

t7aTno?r"^  ?^  "^'^'Jh^  ^*^°'^  t'"*^'  and, consequent ; 
™  "l^''P?f,?  t^"™"ch  variation  of  temperature.  ^ 

After  the  middle  of  this  month  the  N.W.  winds  gave  place 
to  a  successH)n  of  easterly  breezes ;  whenever  these  prevailed 
we  observed  the  terrestrial  refraction  was  much  , Ceased ' 
double  refraction  of  tlie  land  was  not  unfrequent,  and  twice 
ce'  "'when  Th!  "^^'^  ^^e  open  water,  appeared  like  a  vvaTl  of 
W^  ,  •   u,  ™*''*",  '*'°"^'  *^^'«^'  ^°d  occasionally  parase- 

rus?at^^ront ''  '"^  *°^^^<^«  tJ^^  <^>^«e  of  the  month  fhe  co- 
ruscations ot  the  aurora  were  often  very  brilliant 

During  this  month  I  noticed  that  on  several  occasions  the 

mapetic  needle  oscillated  when  I  approached  tTn  a  dress  of 

waer-proof  cloth,  although  it  remained  stationary  when  othe^ 

of  the  party  examined  it  in  their  ordinary  garments      Th^ 

rodvTthf  wl-P^^^'^'^  ''''^  "^y  ^^^it-g  -J^S  in  the 
body  although  this  opinion  is  rather  contradicted  by  the  fact 

ed  thr^olTielf ' ?  '.''  'r  '"'^^'  '^  th^  h-d  untilit  afflct- 
dle  and^mvlnn  'K?";f*''',P''°^""*"g  "^  change  in  the  nee- 
leaf  to  ex/anff'""'^*"  '^'^  electrometer  not  cauling  thegold- 

srnkh'I'ufe^alfhu"  f  ^"'"^P^  *^  "^^'^"  "h^''^^^^  ^^'  ^^^  black- 
smith s  use  at  this  place,  we  despatched  William  Duncan,  and 


80 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[I82G. 


i 


the  blacksmith,  to  make  some  at  Fort  Norman,  where  birch 
April,  6th  ^\^J  ^'■^  plentiful ;  and  on  the  6th  of  April  we  were 
glad  to  see  them  return  with  the  first  load.  The 
carpenters  had  already  prepared  the  timbers  and  the  keel  for 
the  new  boai,  and  we  were  waiting  for  the  coals  to  get  the 
iron-work  forward. 

Monday,  10th  ,  P"  '^^  *^*^  ^^'  ^^c^ardson  and  Mr.  Kendall 
left  the  fort  on  snow-shoes,  accompanied  by  an 
Indian  guide,  and  a  man  driving  a  dog-sledge  with  provisions, 
for  the  purpose  of  completing  the  survey  of  Great  Bear  Lake, 
which  Dr.  Richardson  had  commenced  the  preceding  autumn 
The  day  was  remarkably  warm;  the  blackened  thermometer*, 
exposed  to  the  sun,  rose  to  +  90;  and  we  hailed  with  deUght 
a  coniplete  thaw.     Cheered  by  the  prospect,  a  spot  was  clear- 
ed of  snow,  the  keel  of  the  boat  laid  down,  and  that  there 
might  be  no  delay,  all  the  sledges  we  could  spare  were  de- 
spatched to  fetch  the  remainder  of  the  charcoal  from  Fort  Nor- 
Tuesday,  11th.    ?*"'  ?"  *^^  following  day  water  was  dripping 
Irom  the  roofs,  and  the  flies  were  active  within 
the  rooms.     The  continuance  of  mild  weather  for  six  days 
caused  a  rapid  decay  of  the  snow,  but  no  spots  of  land  became 
visible.    The  men  returned  with  the  charcoal,  and  from  them 
we  learned  that  the  season  was  more  backward  here  than  in 
the  vicinity  of  Fort  Norman.     In  the  evening  of  the  17th  a 
telescope  was  put  up  in  the  meridian  for  finding  the  rates  of 
Wednesday,  19th.  j!?®  chronometers  by  the  transit  of  Arcturus. 

•.u     ,  J        .  .'^  .*"^    ^^*^'   *^'''*y    Hare-Indians    arrived 
with  sledges,  bringing  their  winter's  collection  of  furs  for 
the   Hudson   Bay  Company,  and  a  large  supply  of  dried 
meat  for    us,    which,    with    the    stock    already    in    store 
put  us  quite  at  ease  respecting  food  until  the  season  for  our 
departure.     Ihe  party  consisted  mostly  of  young  lads,  who 
very  good-naturedly,  sang  and  danced  for  our  aimisement  all 
the  evening     They  also  gave  us  specimens  of  the  dances  in 
use  ammig  the  Loucheux,  which  were  more  graceful  than  their 
own.     1  he  tune  they  sung  to  the  Medicine-dance  of  the  Lou- 
cheux, struck  me  as  being  soft  and  pretty.     The  Udicrous  at- 
titudes and  grotesque  figures  of  the  dancers,  as  they  wheeled 
in  a  circle,  shaking  the  knives  and  feathers  which  they  had  be- 
bIci"  ^'"^"^""^  ^^'"^  ^""^^''^  sketched  by  Lieutenant 

As  the  fish  had  withdrawn  from  the  open  water  st  the  com- 
mencement of  the  fine  weather,  the  nets  were  brought  nearer 
to  the  house;  but  we  did  not  obtain  more  than  thirty  fish  daily, 
ihis  dimunition,  however,  gave  us  no  concern,  as  we  bad 


i 


April.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


81 


plenty  of  meat     Shortly  afterwards  the  trout  began  again  to 
take  ba,t,  and  we  caught  several  of  large  size.   EaSerlTwhids 

IZtfU^]"  ?r'^'  '"/  '^'^  ^^^^  "ninterrupted^l/om  ?he 
21  St  to  the  last  day     A  storm,  on  the  28th  and  29th  delayed 

Dr.  R  chardson  and  Mr.  Kendall  returned  on  the  Tt  of 
ttfr'rourn"'  were  furnished  with  the  following^artu  ars  ^ 
o    hSer^;  in  MaTv'"''f'p"  ^'"1^"^  "s,  was  first  directed 

ot  Mac  Tavish  Bay  are  the  only  parts  of  th^  vJll  t    i 

Great  Bear  Lake  ic  formed  bj-  the  union  of  five 
kZ  %"  !;r;. "'"'"'  ^^'•'=  ™"'^d  after  Me,"™    M*^.  >««• 

ff  Li.        i  Jease  Bay,  which  is  the  most  northern  oart  of 
the  westward      Mrv:.    ^n     u       ''^'  opposite  to  it,  runs  to 

A  ra„«e  of    ™fc  ifiullVl"  h^^t^Jr'S.rT""^''^'- 

si  re^mf/af;::;ptT'rx'  r''^%^  -e^b^^ 'o^s 

'  "■■''  "'"^  Iveuh  Ba,, ;  a  similar  mountaii:  lies 


82 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


Jli»,  .: 


betwixt  Keith  and  Smith  Bays.  In  Dease  Bay,  Hmestone  and 
sandstone  are  the  prevailing  rocks.  The  waters  of  the  lake 
are  very  clear,  and  of  unknown  depth ;  forty-five  fathoms  of 
line  were  let  down  near  the  shore,  in  Mac  Tavish  Bay,  with- 
out reaching  the  bottom.  There  is  a  considerable  quantity  of 
good  wood,  principally  white  spruce,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
lake ;  but  there  is  reason  to  believe  that,  before  many  years 
elapse,  it  will  become  scarce,  for  it  is  very  slow  of  growth,  and 
the  natives  every  year  set  fire  to  it  in  various  quarters,  and 
thus  destroy  it  for  many  miles.  The  finest  timber  was  ob- 
served on  the  west  side  of  Great  Bear  Lake  Mountain.  There 
are  good  fisheries  in  Dease  Bay,  and  in  various  other  quarters 
of  the  lake  ;  but  the  fish  taken  in  Mac  Vicar  Bay  are  remark- 
ably fine  and  abundant  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  princi- 
pal advantage  of  the  site  chosen  for  Fort  Franklin,  is  its  vicinity 
to  the  Bear  Lake  River,  and  the  great  quantity  of  fish  that  can 
be  procured  at  certain  seasons,  although  they  are  small  and  of 
inferior  quality." 

On  the  5th  of  this  month,  the  men  being  called  in  from  the 
fishery  in  Mac  Vicar  Bay,  the  whole  party  was  once  more  as- 
sembled at  the  house,  anxiously  looking  forward  to  the  arrival 
of  spring.  We  hailed  the  appearance  of  swans,  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  as  a  sure  sign  of  its  approach.  A  goose  was  seen  on 
the  7th,  two  ducks  on  the  8th,  and  on  the  9th  several  gulls  were 
observed  in  the  open  water  near  the  Bear  Lake  River.  The 
sno  V,  at  this  time,  was  rapidly  diminishing  from  the  surface  of 
the  lake,  and  there  were  many  spots  of  ground  visible.  We, 
therefore,  commenced  the  preparations  for  the  summer's  voy- 
age. The  seamen  were  employed  in  repairing  the  coverings 
and  sails  of  the  boats,  as  well  as  in  refitting  their  rigging,  and 
<-  'cupation  was  allotted  to  every  person  in  the  establishment. 
These  operations  requiring  the  constant  superintendence  of 
the  ofticers,  the  observations  of  the  magnetic-needle  were  dis- 
continued. After  the  middle  of  the  month,  we  were  visited 
by  occasional  showers  of  rain,  which  removed  the  snow,  and 
produced  a  perceptible  decay  of  the  ice. 

On  the  23d,  the  ice  broke  away  from  the  shore  of  the  small 
lake,  and  also  of  Bear  Lake,  in  front  of  the  house.  Swans  and 
geese  were  now  daily  passing  to  the  northward;  many  shots 
were  fired  at  them,  both  by  the  Indians  and  our  own  party,  but 
only  a  few  were  killed.  The  geese  were  principally  of  the 
kind  known  to  naturalists  by  the  name  of  Cfanada  geese,  and 
denominated  bustards  by  the  voyagers.  Numbers  of  white 
geese  also  passed;  we  saw  only  two  flocks  of  laughing-geese. 
The  first  swallow  came  on  the  16th,  and,  on  the  following  day, 


May.] 


or  THE  VOLAR  SEA. 


83 


many  o  hers  arnved  A  variety  of  ducks,  gulls,  and  many  of 
the  sn^all  aquatic  birds,  now  frequented  the  marshy  borders  of 
the  httle  lake  vvnch  afforded  constant  amusement  to  the 
sportsmen  and  full  occupation  to  Dr.  Richardson  in  preparing 
the  skins  for  specimens.  ^    ^       ^ 

On  the  24th,  the  musquitoes  appeared,  feeble 
at  first,  but,  after  a  few  days,  they  became  vi-  ^^^^^nesday,  24th. 
gorous  and  tormenting.     The  first  flower,  a  tussilago,  was  ga- 
thered  on  the  27th.     Before  the  close  of  the  month  Tevefal 
whitPnnr  ^"^'^^-^'^f  ^hich  the  most  abundant  was  the 

b^!:^  trxi=rto:pt'^  ^'^  ^^^^-^-^^ '-'  -^^  >-^^ 

with  birch  timbers  after  the  model  of  our  largest  boat,  the  Lion,' 
but  with  a  more  full  bow,  and  a  finer  run  abaft.  Its  length 
was  abou    twentysix  fee^  and  breadth  five  feet  eight  infh 

h nV  J  fh  •    !"^^  '?  ^^^  '"""^  "'^""*^''  ^^  t'^e  «iher  boats, 

but  With  iron  mstead  of  copper,  and  to  procure  sufficient  nails 
we  were  obliged  to  cut  up  all  the  spare  axes,  trenches*,  and 
ice-chisels.  Being  without  tar,  we  substituted  strips  of  water- 
proof canvass,  soaked  in  some  caoutchouc  varnish;  which  we 

?orn  Jn?^  ^  """S^^  ^'^  ^f''''''  ^'^^  ^^^^^  «f  the  planks;  and 
for  paint,  we  made  use  of  resin,  procured  from  the  pine-trees 
boded  and  mixed  with  grease.  The  other  boats  were  afte  -' 
wards  put  in  complete  repair.  The  Lion  required  the  most 
.n  consequence  of  the  accident  in  Bear  Lake  River.  Thrde- 
fects  m  the  other  two  principally  arose  from  their  having  been 
repaired  at  Cumberland  House  with  the  elm  that  grows  in  "ts 
vicinity,  and  IS  very  spongy.  We  now  substituted  white  spruce 
far,  which  when  grown  in  these  high  latitudes,  is  an  excellent 
wood  for  boat-building.  We  were  surprised  to  find,  that,  not- 
withstanding  the  many  heavy  blows  these  boats  had  received 
in  their  passage  to  this  place,  there  was  not  a  timber  that  re- 
quired to  be  changed. 

In  our  bustle,  we  would  gladly  have  dispensed  with  the  pre- 
sence of  the  Dog.Ribs,  who  now  visited  us  in  great  numbers 

the  Z  ^••'"f'/if  .^"{  ^yPP''-^-   They  continued 'hanging  about 
the  fort  and  their  daily  drumming  and  singing  over  the  sick 
the  squalling  of  the  children,  and  bawling  of  the  men  and  wo-' 
men,  proved  no  small  annoyance.  We  were  pleased,  however 
at  perceiving  that  the  ammunition  we  had  givon  to  them  in 
return  for  meat,  had  enabled  them  to  provide  themselves  with 

*  Used  by  the  Jiidian.  (o  break  up  Ihc  beaver  lod./o«. 


84 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SIIOUES 


[1826. 

leathern  tents.  Their  only  shelter  from  the  wind,  snow,  or 
rain,  before  this  season,  had  been  a  rude  barricade  of  pine 
branches.  Fortunately,  for  our  comfort,  they  were  obliged  to 
remove  before  the  expiration  of  the  lonth  to  a  distant  fishery 
to  procure  provision. 

June  1st  y^^^  preparations  for  the  voyage  along  the  coast 
'  '  being  now  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  my  attention  was 
directed  to  the  providing  for  the  return  of  Dr.  Richardson's 
party  to  this  establishment  in  the  following  autumn,  and  to  the 
securing  means  of  support  for  all  the  members  of  the  Expedi- 
tion at  this  place,  in  the  event  of  the  western  party  being  like- 
wise compelled  to  return  to  it.  Respecting  the  first  point,  it 
was  arranged  that  Beaulieu  the  interpreter,  and  four  Cana- 
dians, should  quit  Fort  Franklin  on  the  6th  of  August,  and 
proceed  direct  to  Dease  River  with  a  bateau,  and  wait  there 
until  the  20th  of  September,  when,  if  Dr.  Richardson  did 
not  appear,  they  were  to  come  back  to  the  fort  in  canoes, 
and  to  leave  the  boat,  with  provision  and  other  necessaries, 
for  the  use  of  the  eastern  detachment.  All  these  points 
were  explained  to  Beaulieu,  and  he  not  only  understood 
every  part  of  the  arrangement,  but  seemed  very  desirous  to 
perform  the  important  duty  entrusted  to  him.  I  next  drew  up 
written  instructions  for  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Dease,  during  the 
absence  of  the  Expedition,  directing  his  attention  first  to  the 
equipment  and  despatch  of  Beaulieu  on  the  6th  of  August,  and 
then  to  the  keeping  the  establishment  well  stored  with  provi- 
sion. He  was  aware  of  the  probability  that  the  western  party 
would  meet  his  Majesty's  ship  Blossom,  and  go  to  Canton  in 
her.  But  as  unforeseen  circumstances  might  compel  us  to 
winter  on  the  coast,  I  considered  it  necessary  to  warn  him 
against  inferring,  from  our  not  returning  in  the  following  au- 
tumn, that  we  had  reached  the  Blossom,  ile  was,  therefore, 
directed  to  keep  Fort  Franklin  complete,  as  to  provision,  un- 
til the  spring  of  1828.  Dr.  Richardson  was  likewise  in- 
structed, before  he  left  the  fort  in  1827,  on  his  return  to  Eng- 
land, to  see  that  Mr.  Dease  fully  understood  my  motives  for 
giving  these  orders,  and  that  he  was  provided  with  the  means 
of  purchasing  the  necessary  provision  from  the  Indians. 

Wednesday,  7th.     ,  ^^'^  ^f  ^,  '^'&'  «/  ^\^  Jfi^V"^  ^^'  ^*  '^"^th 
termmated  by  a  fresh  N.W.  breeze,  and  the 

ice  yet  remaining  on  the  small  lake  soon  disappeared,  under 

the  softening  effects  of  this  wind.     This  lake  had  been  frozen 

eight  months,  wanting  three  days.     A  narrow  channel  being 

opened  along  the  western  border  of  Bear  Lake,  on  the  14th 

Dr.  Richardson  took  advantage  of  it,  and  went  in  a  small 


June.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  S'JA. 


85 


,  snow,  or 


dlTnTf  jT''^'^  ^^^"^•ne  the  mountains  on  the  bor- 
DknA^f       ^'^'^  ^'T'  ""^.^^  "^"^^*  specimens  of  the 

?  Fnrf  N  """'^  "^o  '"i^'^"'"'  ^"^"'^^•"g  t«  ^eJ°in  the  party 
at  Fort  Nornrmn.  On  the  same  day,  in  1 82  ] ,  the  former  Ex- 
pedition  left  Fort  Enterprize  for  the  sea. 

The  eqmpments  of  the  boats  being  now  com- 
plete, they  were  launched  on  the  small  lake    Thursday,  isth. 

apnointeVtnl'  ^^"'  '""^  !-^^''  '"  ^^'  ^^^^'•"««"  ^he  men  were 
appo  nted  to  their  respective  stations,  and  furnished  with  the 

t^r'^cloTht?' v^ri.^''"^  ^"^  ^'^'^''"'^  ^'  ^^^"  ««  ^ith  the 
warm  c  othmg  which  had  been  provided  for  the  vovaee      I 

PoCout'th?  '""^  ^''V"'  ^'j^^^  ^^  ^^^  ExpVdS  -and 
pointed  out  their  various  duties.     Thev  received  thpsr  rnm 

munications  with  satisfaction,  were  delig^rd  wilh  the  pro^^^^^^^ 

of  the  voyage,  and  expressed  their  readiness  to  commence  i 

immediately.     Fourteen  men,  including  Augustus    were  ao 

pointed  to  accompany  myself  and  Lieutena^nt  B^crin  th^e 

olTif"!  Rehance,  the  two  larger  boats;  and  ten,  includ  ng 

Oo  igbuck,  to  go  with  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Kendall,  in  hi 

Dolphin  and  Union.     In  order  to  make  up  the  complemen  of 

un?  r  from  X"r  "  f  ^'^'  '  P'^^^^^ '  ^«  reeeivVtrto-' 
CaSn  f  •^"'''''^"  voyagers;  and  to  the  credit  of 
Canadian    enterprise,  every  man   came  forwar  1      I   chose 

l^TT  ^/  u  ""^  ^'^"'^  ^'^'^'''  b^^^"^e  they  weVe  he  first 
Spare  blankets,  and  every  thing  that  could  be  useful  for  the 

and  DuJ  uninto  h't"^  ^'^^''"  ^^^  ""^^^"^  ^"^  ^^^^ern  parties^ 
and  put  up  into  bales  ofa  size  convenient  for  stowage    This  in 
terestmg  day  was  closed  by  the  consumption  of  a  smlll  qua.  tuJ 
of  rum,  reserved  for  the  occasion,  followed  by  a  merry  dance^ 

Snle  fn     J^.'"^'^,^^?  g^f  t  glee,  in  theirUrrng'd'eres' 
On  the  following  Sunday  the  officers  and  m.  i  assembled  a 

tion  to  the  ordinary  service  of  the  day,  the  special  protection 

to  L"  mtnc"  "^V"^'"^'  ^"  the  ej;;erprise' we'lreS 
to  commence.     The  guns  were  cleaned  the  next  dav  and 

X  uesaay  and  VVednesday  were  set  apart  for  the  officp-s  »nA 

™e„  we.  eo,.t     ,0,  ,Uk>  b„a|  „,        ,,  ^^  ^^.^^ 
""~   ■■     ■     --^^"0  chucicd  on  (luiUing  the  beach. 


evenmcr 


86 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 

The  officers  remained  to  pack  up  the  charts,  drawings,  and 
other  documents,  which  were  to  be  left  at  the  fort ;  and,  in 
the  event  of  none  of  the  officers  returning,  Mr.  Dease  was 
directed  to  forward  them  to  England.  We  quitted  the  house 
at  half  past  ten,  on  Thursday  morning,  leaving  Cote,  the  fish- 
erman, ill  chaise,  until  Mr.  Dease  should  return  from  Fort 
Norman.  This  worthy  old  man,  sharing  the  enthusiasm  that 
animated  the  whole  party,  would  not  allow  us  to  depart  with- 
out giving  his  hearty,  though  solitary  cheer,  which  wc  returned 
in  full  chorus. 

The  position  of  Fort  Franklin  was  determined  to  be  in  lati- 
tude  65°  IV  56"  N.,  longitude  123°  12'  44"  W.;  variation  of 
the  compass  39°  9'  £.;  dip  of  the  needle  82°  58'  15". 


I 


•June.] 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


87 


CHAPTER  III. 

Voyage  to  the  Sea-Part  from  the  Eastern  Detachment  at  Point  9pn„« 

On  our  arrival  at  the  Bear  Lake  River,  we 
were  mortified  to   find  the  ice  drifting  down  Thursday,  22nd. 

un  aff  ThT:  ""''^  «"^\rapidity  as  to  render  embarkation 
unsale.  The  same  cause  detained  us  the  whole  of  the  follow 
ng  day ;  and  as  we  had  brought  no  more  provLon  from  thL 
house  than  sufficient  for  an^ninterrupted  pas  age  to  Fort 
dav  TVr"  ''"*  ^r  "-^"PP'^  «^  ^'^'   This  wTafery  sultry 

ing^ottSifrx^^^^^^^^ 

into  a  bateau,  manned  by  Canadfans,  whoUe  exper  ^n^^^^^^ 
m  the  passage  through  rapids,  and  the  rest  o f  fL  S  [ 

the  rope  sank  up  to  the  knee   It  ev'rv  sten •  WH '"  "^'"^^'^^ 
ments  were  less  rp^ar^^^  Vk       f/'^'^y  step;  but  these  impedi. 

musqui^e       We  halted  to  sn'"  fit  ''^''^'''  t^™^"^  o^  the 
kenzie  saw  thetf.ir"  '  V    '^  '  h ''t  «P«*  ^here  Sir  A.  Mac 


'H  irom  the  f)ank  in  17B9.    The 


pre- 


88 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


■^n  j/> 


[1826. 

cipice  was  still  on  fire,  the  smoke  issuing  through  several  aper- 
tures.    Specimens  of  the  coal  were  procured. 
Sunday  25tli  ^  ^^  reached  Fort  Norman  at  noon  on  the  25th. 
"  On  the  following  morning  the  provision  and  stores 
vjrhich  had  been  left  at  this  place  were  examined,  and  found  to 
be  in  excellent  order,  except  the  powder  in  one  of  the  maga- 
zines, which  had  become  caked  from  damp.     I  had  ordered  a 
supply  of  iron-work,  knives,  aud  beads,  for  the  sea  voyage  from 
Fort  Simpson ;  they  had  arrived  some  days  before  us,  and  with 
our  stock  thus  augmented,  wo  were  well  furnished  with  pre- 
sents for  the  natives.  The  packages  being  finished  on  the  27th, 
the  boats  received  their  respective  ladings,  and  we  were  re- 
joiced to  find  that  each  stowed  her  cargo  well,  and  with  her 
crew  embarked  floated  as  buoyantly  as  our  most  sanguine 
wishes  had  anticipated.     The  heavy  stores,  however,  were 
afterwards  removed  into  a  bateau  that  was  to  be  taken  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  to  prevent  the  smaller  boats  from  receiv- 
ing injury  in  passing  over  the  shoals. 

We  waited  one  day  to  make  some  pounded  meat  we  had 
brought  into  pemmican.  In  the  mean  time  the  seamen  en- 
larged the  foresail  of  the  Reliance. 

The  letters  which  I  received  from  the  Athabasca  depart-  ^ 
ment  informed  me  that  the  things  I  had  required  from  the  Com- 
pany in  February  last,  would  be  duly  forwarded;  they  likewise 
contained  a  very  different  version  of  the  story  which  had  led 
us  to  suppose  that  Captain  Parry  was  passing  the  winter  on 
the  northern  coast.  We  now  learned  that  the  Indians  had  only 
seen  some  pieces  of  wood  recently  cut,  and  a  deer  that  had 
been  killed  by  an  arrow  ;  these  things  we  concluded  were  done 
by  the  Esquimaux.  Three  men  from  Slave  Lake,  whom  I  had 
sent  for  to  supply  the  place  of  our  Chipcwyan  hunters,  who 
were  very  inactive  last  winter,  joined  us  at  this  place.  They 
were  to  accompany  Mr.  Dease  and  the  Canadians  to  Fort 
Franklin ;  and  that  they,  as  well  as  the  Indians,  might  have 
every  encouragement  to  exert  themselves  in  procuring  provi- 
sions during  the  summer,  I  directed  a  supply  of  the  goods  they 
were  likely  to  require,  to  be  sent  from  Fort  Simpson,  as  soon 
as  possible.  The  longitude  of  Fort  Norman  was  observed  to 
be  124°  44'  47"  W.,  its  latitude  64°  40'  38"  N. :  variation  39° 
57'  52"  E. 

Wedne8dav,28th.  fV'^y  **"^  morning  the  boats  were  laden 
and  decorated  with  their  ensigns  and  pendants, 
and  after  breakfast  we  quitted  the  fort,  amidst  the  hearty 
cheers  of  our  friends  Mr.  Dease,  Mr.  Brisbois,  and  the  Cana- 
dians, and  1  am  sure  carried  their  best  wishes  (or  our  success. 


June.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


89 


cm  receiv- 


r  success. 


We  halted  at  noon  to  obtain  the  latitude,  which  placed  the 

entrance  of  Bear  Lake  River  in  64°  55'  37"  N.;  and  Dr  Ri- 

chardson  took  advantage  of  this  delay  to  visit  the  mountain  at 

that  point,  but  his  stay  was  short,  in  consequence  of  a  favour- 

able  breeze  springing  up.    We  perceived  that  the  four  boats 

sailed  at  near  y  an  equal  rate  in  light  breezes,  but  that  in 

strong  winds  the  two  larger  ones  had  the  advantage.     When 

we  landed  to  sup  the  musquitoes  beset  us  so  furiously  that  we 

hastily  despatched  the  meal  and  re-embarked,  to  drive  under 

easy  sail  before  the  current.     They  continued,  however,  to 

,    pursue  us  and  deprived  us  of  all  rest.     On  our  arrival,  next 

mormng,  at  the  place  of  the  first  rapids,  there  was  scarcely  any 

IfZZTu  ^^^'•^ken  water,  and  the  sand-bank  on  which  Au- 

gustus  had  been  so  perilously  situated  in  the  preceding  autumn, 

was  entirely  covered.     This  was,  of  course,  to  be  afcribed^to 

the  spring  floods;  the  increase  of  water  to  produce  such  a 

change,  mus    have  exceeded  six  feet.     In  the  afternoon  we 

were  overtaken  by  a  violent  thunder-storm,  with  heavy  rain 

which  made  us  apprehensive  for  the  pemmican,  that  spoils  on 

being  wet    It  unfortunately  happened  that  a  convenient  place 

for  spreading  out  the  bags  that  were  injured  could  not  be 

S.'^;  Vfi     ^t-^f^'^^d  "^e  Hare-Skin  River,  below  the  Ram- 
part  Dehle,  which  was  at  nine  o'clock.     They 
were  spread  out  the  next  morning',  with  the      F"day,30th, 
other  perishable  parts  of  the  cargo,  and  we  remained  until  they 

r/pL  '^'  .^'  T^"''^"^  "^  *^"'  ^""^^  ^'^^d  by  a  favourable 
breeze,  made  good  progress  until  six  p.m.,  when  the  threaten! 
mg  appearance  of  the  clouds  induced  us  to  put  on  shore  and 
we  had  but  just  covered  the  baggage  before  heavy  rain  fell  that 
continued  throughout  the  night.  Four  Hare  Indians  ^ame 
to  the  encampment,  to  whom  dried  meat  and  ammunition 
were  g^ven,  as  they  were  in  want  of  food  from  being  unable 
to  set  their  nets  in  the  present  high  state  of  the  water  The  e 
were  the  only  natives  seen  since  our  departure  from  Fort  Nor- 
man; they  informed  us,  that,  in  consequence  of  not  bein-  able 
lUZT^  ^  suthc.ency  offish  in  the  Mackenzie  at  this  season! 

thr^m^n^t'""'  Y  )"'"^<^'-^^^»  to  gain  their  subsistence  from 
the  small  lakes  in  the  interior. 

We  embarked  at  half  past  one  on  the  morning 
of  the  1st  of  July.     The  sultry  weather  of  the        ^""^y^  ^'^' 
preceding  day  made  us  now  feel  more  keenly  the  chill  of  a 
strong  western  breeze,  and  the  mist  which  it  brou-^ht  on  about 
four  hours  after  our  departure.  This  wind  being  contrary  to  ?he 

great  deal  o.  water;  and  a=  'v^  ^^a^  u.,f  ^u^y  . 

t.--i  5  aim  d-,  Av,  mai^c  uut  iiLilc  progfess,  aiid 


Hi 


90 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


i  i\ 


[1826. 

were  very  cold,  we  landed  to  kindle  a  fire,  and  prepare  break- 
fast; after  which  we  continued  the  voyage  to  Fort  Good  Hope, 
without  any  of  the  interruptions  from  sand-bunks  that  we  had 
experienced  in  the  autumn. 

On  our  arrival  we  were  saluted  with  a  dischai^e  of  mus- 
ketry by  a  large  party  of  Loucheux,  who  had  been  some  time 
waiting  at  the  fort,  with  their  wives  and  families,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  seeing  us.   After  a  short  conference  with  Mr.  Bell,  the 
master  of  the  post,  we  were  informed  that  these  Indians  had 
iatel)  met  a  numerous  party  of  Esquimaux  at  the  Red  River, 
by  appointment,  to  purchase  their  furs ;  and  that  in  consequence 
of  a  misunderstanding  respecting  some  bargain,  a  quarrel  had 
ensued  between  them,  which  fortunately  terminated  without 
bloodshed.     We  could  not,  however,  gain  any  satisfactory  ac- 
count of  the  movements  of  the  Esquimaux.   The  only  answers 
to  our  repeated  questions  on  these  points  were,  that  the  Es- 
quimaux came  in  sixty  canoes  to  Red  River,  and  that  they  sup- 
posed them  to  have  gone  down  the  eastern  channel,  for  the 
purpose  of  lishini^  near  its  mouth.     The  chief,  however,  in- 
formed us  that  he  h  id  mentioned  our  coming  to  their  lands 
this  spring,  and  that  they  had  received  the  intelligence  with- 
out comment;  but  from  his  not  having  alluded  to  this  commu- 
nication until  the  question  was  pressed  upon  him,  and  from  the 
manner  of  his  answering  our  inquiries,  I  thought  it  doubtful 
whether  such  a  communication  had  really  been  made. 

We  had  been  led  to  expect  much  information  from  the  Lou- 
cheux respecting  the  channels  of  (he  river,  and  the  coast  on 
the  east  and  west  side  near  its  mouth,  but  we  were  greatly  dis- 
appointed. They  were  ignorant  of  the  channel  we  ought  to  fol- 
low  m  order  to  arrive  at  the  western  mouth  of  the  river ;  and 
the  only  intelligence  they  gave  us  respecting  the  coast  on  that 
side  was,  that  the  Esquimaux  represented  it  to  be  almost  con- 
stantly beset  by  ice.  They  said  also  that  thcv  were  unac- 
quainted with  the  tribes  who  reside  to  the  westward.  Several 
of  the  party  had  been  down  the  eastern  channel,  of  which 
they  made  a  rude  sketch  ;  and  their  ac-  ount  of  the  coast  on 
that  side  was,  that,  as  far  as  Ihey  were  .cquainted  with  it,  it 
was  free  from  ice  during  the  summer. 

Mr.  C.  Dease,  the  former  master  of  Fort  Good  Hope,  had 
retained  two  of  the  Loucheux  to  accompany  the  Expedition 
until  we  should  meet  the  Esquimaux :  they  spoke  a  few  words 
of  the  language,  which  they  had  learned  during  an  occasional 
residence  with  the  tribe  that  resides  on  the  eastern  border  of 
the  river.  But  the  knowledge  of  the  recent  transactions  at  Red 
Kiver  had  convinced  us  that  their  presence  would  be  more 


J^^Y']  OF  THE  POLAR  SEA.  9| 

likely  to  irritate  than  pacify  the  Esquimaux.     We  also  disco- 
vered that  their  sole  motive  for  accompanying  us  wae  the  de- 
sire of  trading  with  that  people;  and  further,  that  they  ex- 
pected we  should  take  their  families  and  baggage  in  the  boats, 
fheir  services  were  therefore  declined ;  and  a  compensation 
was  offered  to  the  m  for  their  loss  of  time  in  waiting  for  us  • 
but  havmg  fixed  their  minds  on  the  gain  to  be  derived  from  us 
and  from  the  trade  with  the  Esquimaux,  they  expressed  great 
disappomtment,  and  were  very  intemperate  in  their  language. 
As  I  was  anxious,  for  the  sake  of  the  trade  at  the  post,  to  leave 
them  no  room  to  complain  either  of  us  or  of  Mr.  Dease  who 
had  acted  for  us,  I  spent  several  hours  in  debate  with  them  to 
very  little  purpose,  and  at  last  discovered  that  the  whole 
scerie  was  got  up  forjhe  purpose  of  oUaining  a  few  more 
goods.     My  compliance  with  their  wish  rendered  thr     auite 
contented    1  afterwards  added  a  preset  to  the  principal  chief 
of  the  party,  who  still  expressed  a  wish  to  accompany  us,  but 
he  irankly  said  that  if  he  went,  all  his  young  men  must  go 
i'^?l  J ■? came  m  the  evemng  in  great  good  humour  to  ex- 
hibit their  dances  m  front  of  our  tent,  a  compliment  we  could 
wrell  have  dispensed  with,  as  we  were  busy. 

Having  ascertained  that  the  Esquimaux  were  likelv  to  Ha 
seen  in  greater  numbers  than  had  been  at  first  imagined  I  in 
creased  the  stock  of  presents  from  the  store  at  this  place  and 
exchanged  two  of  our  guns,  which  were  defective,  that  thr 
party  migh  have  entire  confidence  in  their  arms.  And  to  nro 
vide  against  the  casualty  of  either  or  both  branches  of  theEv" 
pedition  having  to  return  this  way,  I  reque^ted  Mr.  Bell  to 
store  up  as  much  meat  as  he  could  during  the  summer.     We 
learned  from  this  gentleman  that  the  supply  of  meat  at  thi« 
post  was  very  precarious,  and  that  had  we  not  left  the  five 
bags  of  pemmican  in  the  autumn,  the  residents  would  have 
been  reduced  to  great  distress  for  food  during  the  winLr 
These  bags  were  now  replaced.     The  arrangements  bein. 
concluded,  we  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  night  in  writing  tf 
England.     I  addressed  to  the  Colonial  Secretary  an  account 
of  our  proceedings  up  to  this  time,  and  1  felt  happy  ?o  be  able 
Expettlon   "'  ""'  ''''''''''  "'^'^  ^^^^^  ^^ '"-'«  f^'  the 

We  quitted  Fort  Good  Hope  at  five  on  the  2nd 
In  the  passage  down  the  river  we  were  visited  bv  ^^^""7^  2nd. 
several  Loucheux,  who,  the  instant  we  appeared  launched 
heir  canoes  and  came  off  to  welcome  us.^  We  landed  4 
their  request,  to  purchase  fish ;  yet,  after  the  bargain  had  b;en 
completed,  an  old  woman  stepped  forward,  and  would  o7y 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


// 


A. 


1.0  if  "^  isi 


I.I 


^  ■-    III  2.2 

t  1^ 


!2.0 


1.8 


1.25      1.4   III 

1.6 

-■ 6"     

► 

V] 


<^ 


/a. 


<^ 


7. 


M 


y 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


92 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


allow  of  our  receiving  two  fish :  she  maintained  her  point, 
and  carried  off  the  rest  in  spite  of  all  remonstrance.  The  na- 
tives were  all  clothed  in  new  leathern  dresses,  and  looked 
much  neater,  and  in  better  health,  than  last  autumn.  Being 
anxious  to  reach  the  Red  River,  we  continued  rowing  against 
the  wind  until  after  midnight.  On  reaching  that  place,  the 
ground  proved  too  wet  for  us  to  encamp ;  we,  therefore,  pro- 
ceeded a  short  distance  lower  down,  and  put  up  under  some 
sandstone  cliffs,  where  there  was  but  just  room  for  the  tents. 
As  we  were  now  on  the  borders  of  the  Esquimaux  territory, 
we  devoted  the  following  morning  to  cleaning  the  arms ;  and 
a  gun,  dagger,  and  ammunition,  were  issued  to  each  person. 
We  had  no  reason,  indeed,  to  apprehend  hostility  from  the 
Esquimaux,  after  the  messages  they  had  sent  to  Fort  Franklin, 
but  vigilance  and  precaution  are  never  to  be  omitted  in  inter- 
course with  strange  tribes. 

Monda  3rd  Embarking  at  two  in  the  afternoon  of  the  3rd, 
*^'  '  '  we  soon  entered  the  expansion  of  the  river 
whence  the  different  channels  branch  off,  and  steering  along 
the  western  shore,  we  came  to  the  head  of  a  branch  that  ^ 
flowed  towiirds  the  Rocky  Mountain  range.  Being  anxious 
not  to  take  ihe  eastern  detachment  out  of  their  course,  1  im- 
mediately encamped  to  make  the  necessary  arrangements  for 
the  separation  of  the  parties.  The  warm  clothing,  shoes,  and 
articles  for  presents,  had  been  previously  put  up  in  separate 
packages,  but  the  provisions  remained  to  be  divided,  which 
was  done  in  due  proportion.  Twenty-six  bags  of  pemmican, 
and  two  of  grease,  were  set  apart  for  the  Dolphin  and  Union, 
with  a  supply  of  arrow-root,  macaroni,  flour,  and  portable 
soup,  making  in  all  eighty  days'  provision,  with  an  allowance 
for  waste.  The  Lion  and  Reliance  received  thirty-two  bags 
of  pemmicatj,  and  two  of  grease,  with  sufficient  arrow-root, 
&c.,  to  make  their  supply  proportionate  to  that  of  the  eastern 
party.  Provided  no  accident  occurred,  neither  party  could  be 
in  absolute  want  for  the  whole  summer,  because  at  two-thirds 
allowance  the  pemmican  could  be  made  to  last  one  hun- 
dred days ;  and  we  had  reason  to  expect  to  meet  with  deer 
occasionally. 

In  the  evening  I  delivered  my  instructions  to  Dr.  Ri(;hard- 
8on  ;  they  were  in  substance  as  follows: — He  was  to  take  un- 
der his  charge  Mr.  E.  N.  Kendall,  and  ten  men,  and  proceed 
in  the  Dolphin  and  Union  to  survey  the  coast  between  the 
Mackenzie  and  Copper-Mine  Rivers.  On  reaching  the  latter 
river,  he  was  to  travel  by  land  to  the  northeast  arm  of  Great 
Bear  Lake,  where  Beaulieu  was  under  orders  to  meet  him 


Julj.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


93 


RnMf  I     uV}?  conveyance  of  his  party  to  Fort  Franklin 
But  If  he  should  be  so  much  delayed  on  the  coast  as  to  have 
no  prospect  of  reaching  the  Copjer-Mine  River  by  the  dole 
c.  August,  or  the  Bear  Lake  Portage  by  the  20th  of  Seotem 
J^'J"  T  »«*  *«  «^P««e  himself  1r  his  party  to  ri  k  bTpe^r 
rv'l^r^^Tv  *t^  ^^^^  ^'  20th  of  August,  but  was  toTet^urn 
to  Fort  Franklm  by  way  of  the  Mackenzie  or  by  any  o  Ser 

«nl?-  ^  T^^*  ^'?^''^^''-  '^^^^  «»Jy  <^ause  of  regret  I  had  re 
TA  *''"  equipment  of  the  eastern  party  was  my  bein; 
unable  to  provide  Dr.  Richardson  with  a  chronometer  thf 
ma.n-sp„ngs  of  two  out  of  the  three  chronomS  futn  'shed 
to  us  having  been  broken.  I  borrowed,  however  from  Mr 
?Kf-%t7*'^.'T'^^  byBarraud,to  enable  MrkenLl  to 
obtain  the  longitude  by  lunar  distances.  They  were  hkewise 
provided  with  that  excellent  instrument  Masse^'s  Lof  Tnl 
knowing  Mr  Kendall's  intimate  acquaintance  Smarin;  sur^ 
veying,  I  had  no  doubt  of  his  beinl  able  tn  rnlto  I 

survey  of  the  coast     The  spot'Sethe^tvTai^aVeS 

EdTsTo  38'n'Y  "T5  '^  P°'"^  Separation'Tnd^rst 
A     u  '  ^''"g'tude  133°  53'  W 

Hve  voyages.     Ihe  best  supper  our  meanq  nfTnr^o^ 
provided,  and  a  bowl  of  P'^nc^croy,ZiZr;j^ttt'' 
We  were  joined  by  an  elderly  Loucheux,  who  ea™  ufa  w 

L'?b::roiit^Tsreir^?H4?»"i^^ 

viH  uic  iiiounidins.         ihe  eastern  was  a  eood  rhann<.l  a«j 
passed  close  to  the  hills  on  that  side  "     Hlfnrfi?    "  r  ' ^"? 

we^e  alililn^^^  morning  of  the  4th  the  boats 
TZn^fJ       .\^''^  '^^^y  ^°^  departure.     It  was   Tuesday,  4th. 
Te^f  ^o^p  ete^^^^^^^^^^^  the  differenee\etween  our 

.A...  .o..„ci  uisasirous  voyage.    Instead  of  a 


ii- 


94 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


frail  bark  canoe,  and  a  scanty  supply  of  food,  we  were  now 
about  to  commence  the  sea  voyage  in  excellent  boats,  stored 
with  three  months'  provision.  At  Dr.  Richardson's  desire  the 
western  party  embarked  first.  He  and  his  companions  saluted 
us  v/ith  three  hearty  cheers,  which  were  warmly  returned ; 
and  as  we  were  passing  round  the  point  that  was  to  hide  them 
from  our  view,  we  perceived  them  also  embarking.  Augustus 
was  rather  melancholy,  as  might  have  been  expected,  on  his 
parting  from  Ooligbuck,  to  proceed  he  knew  not  whither;  but 
he  recovered  his  wonted  flow  of  spirits  by  the  evening. 
The  western  party  were  distributed  as  follows  :^- 


LION. 

John  Franklin,  Captain  R.  JV. 
William  Duncan,  Cockswain. 
Thomas  Matthews,  Carpenter. 
Gustavus  Aird,  Bowman. 
George  Wilson,  Marine. 
Archibald  Stewart,  Soldier. 
Neil  Mac  Donald,  Voyager. 
Augustus,  Esquimaux. 


RELIANCE. 

George  Back,  Lieutenant  R.  Jf. 
Robert  Spinks,  Cockswain. 
Robert  Hallom,  Corpl.  of  Marines. 
Charles  Mackenzie,  Bowman. 
Alexander  Currie,  Middle  Man. 
Robert  Spence,        Ditto, 
Alexis  Vivier,  Canadian.  \ 

Francois  Felix,    Ditto. 


Our  course  was  directly  towards  the  Rocky  Mountain  range, 
till  we  came  near  the  low  land  that  skirts  its  base ;  where,  fol- 
lowing the  deepest  channel,  we  turned  to  the  northward.  I 
was  desirous  of  coasting  the  main  shore,  but  finding  some  of 
the  westermost  branches  too  shallow,  we  kept  on  the  outside 
of  three  islands  for  about  twelve  miles,  when  we  entered  the 
channel  that  washes  the  west  side  of  Simpson's  Island.  It  was 
v/inding,  and  its  breadth  seldom  exceeded  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 
During  our  progress  we  occasionally  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  which  was  an  agreeable  relief  to  the  very 
dull  picture  that  the  muddy  islands  in  our  neighbourhood  af- 
forded. We  halted  to  breakfast  just  before  noon,  and  observed 
the  latitude  67°  51' N. 

In  the  afternoon  one  deer  was  seen,  and  many  swans  and 
geese ;  we  did  not  fire  at  them,  for  fear  of  alarming  any  Esqui- 
maux that  might  be  near.  Encamped  at  eight  p.m.,  opposite 
Simpson's  Island,  in  latitude  68°  13'  N.,  longitude  134°  27'  W. 
The  boats  were  secured  without  discharging  the  cargoes, 
and  two  men  were  placed  on  guard,  to  be  relieved  every  two 
hours. 

,„  ,     J      _.,  We  set  forward  at  four  a.m.,  with  a  favour- 

Wednesday,  5th.       Ill  J         J  J  jii 

•'  able  breeze,  and  made  good  progress,  though 

the  river  was  very  winding.     At  eight  we  entered  a  branch 

that  turned  to  the  westward  round  the  point  of  Halkett  Island 


I 


[1826. 

2  were  now 
boats,  stored 
I's  desire  the 
nions  saluted 
ily  returned ; 
to  hide  them 
;.  Augustus 
icted,  on  his 
nrhither;  but 
ening. 


'enant  R.  JV. 

cswain. 

pi.  of  Marines, 

Bowman. 

liddle  Man. 

Ditto.  I 

dian.  \ 

Itto. 


intain  range, 
;  where,  fol- 
>rthward.  I 
ling  some  of 
1  the  outside 

entered  the 
and.  It  was 
T  of  a  nnile. 
mpse  of  the 

to  the  very 
)ourhood  af- 
nd  observed 

f  swans  and 
I  any  Esqui- 
M.,  opposite 
134°  27' W. 
he  cai^oes, 
1  every  two 

th  a  favour- 
ress,  though 
sd  a  branch 
ilkett  Island 


July.] 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


95 


i 


islands.   The  ypruceTf^^^^^^^^^        the  last  of  the  well-wooded 
and  dwarf  winnw?^^  1  ^^''""nated  m  latitude  68°  36' N: 

tures  uTl^'tTobtLroTt  el:^^^^^^^^        -^  ^^^ /-' 
saw  the  entire  outhn^nfihl-        ^focjcy  Mountains,  and  we 

quoin  shaped  terSionsVo'frf  ^'"^'  ^^^^'^-'^nd,  and 

by  a  loweHine  of  munrh*  J7h-.^^^'^  '^l^^^'  ^^^«  fronted 

the  strata  t^be  LrLontal  t  Ah  ^  '"  '"^'"^  ^"  ^^''^'^^^ 

land  and  the  main  TL  '"^ '"^  '*''""^''  '^^^^^^^  Colvill  Is- 
ed,  in  lat  tudr68°  4^  N^  Z^'-^T  f^^'^^'  "'''•  ^^  ^"^«™P- 
of  the  air  42°  that  of  th^'J  f  ^'k  ^^  ^^^°  ^'  ^'^  temperature 
stream.     Sev;  d  of  Vh,  .?""  ''"'"^.f  ^°  '"  ^^^  ""'^^^^  of  the 

circumstuncef  ;:^t„*t  f  linr  T"'  ^"^  ^^is 

resembling  the  ice  blink  rLv"     /  ^''t^  "^^"^  *«  ^'^e  N.W. 
off.     A  rlin-de^r  app^^^^^^^^^^  '''''  '^'  '''  ^««  "«t  f«r 

were  sent  after  it  who  r^LnS"  *^^  ^"^'ampment,  two  men 
#«:.,«j  .   ^        *."' "^"O  returned  unsuccessful      An^..^*,,- „l 

6      e  loi  supper.     Many  geese,  swans,  and  ducks, 


96 


SECOND  JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


i! 


had  been  seen  on  the  marshy  shores  of  the  island  in  the  course 
of  the  day. 

■Tfii         ^^^  ^'8^*  ^^^  *^°^^'  ^^^  ^*  day-light  on  the  7th 
Friday,  7tii.    ^^^  thermometer  indicated  36°.     Embarking  at 

four  A.M.  we  sailed  down  the  river  for  two  hours,  when  our 
progress  was  arrested  by  the  shallowness  of  the  water.  Hav- 
ing endeavoured,  without  effect,  to  drag  the  boats  over  the 
flat,  we  remounted  the  stream  to  examine  an  opening  to  the 
westward,  which  we  had  passed.  On  reaching  the  opening 
we  found  the  current  setting  through  it  into  the  Mackenzie,  by 
which  we  knew  that  it  could  not  afford  a  passage  to  the  sea, 
but  we  pulled  up  it  a  little  way,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a 
view  over  the  surrounding  low  grounds  from  the  top  of  an  Es- 
quimaux house  which  we  saw  before  us.  A  low  fog,  which 
had  prevailed  all  the  morning,  cleared  away,  and  we  discovered 
that  the  stream  we  had  now  ascended  issued  from  a  chain  of 
lakes  lying  betwixt  us  and  the  western  hills,  which  were  about 
six  miles  distant,  the  whole  intervening  country  between  the 
hills  and  the  Mackenzie  being  flat. 

After  obtaining  an  observation  for  longitude  in  136°  19'  W., 
and  taking  the  bearing  of  several  remarkable  points  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  range,  we  returned  to  the  Mackenzie,  and- 
passing  the  shallows  which  had  before  impeded  us,  by  taking 
one  half  the  boats'  cargoes  over  at  a  time,  we  came  iri  sight  of 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Whilst  the  crews  were  stowing  the 
boats,  I  obtained  an  observation  for  latitude  in  68°  53'  N.,  and 
having  walked  towards  the  mouth  of  the  river,  discovered  on 
an  island,  which  formed  the  east  side  of  the  bay  into  which  the 
river  opened,  a  crowd  of  tents,  with  many  Esquimaux  strolling 
amongst  them.  I  instantly  hastened  to  the  boats,  to  make  pre- 
parations for  opening  a  communication  with  them,  agreeably 
to  my  instructions.  A  selection  of  articles  for  presents  and 
trade  being  made,  the  rest  of  the  lading  was  closely  covered  up ; 
the  arms  were  inspected,  and  every  man  was  directed  to  keep 
his  gun  ready  for  immediate  use.  I  had  previously  informed 
Lieutenant  Back  of  my  intention  of  opening  the  communica- 
tion with  the  Esquimaux  by  landing  amongst  them,  accompa- 
nied only  by  Augustus ;  and  I  now  instructed  him  to  keep  the 
boats  afloat,  and  the  crews  with  their  arms  ready  to  support 
us  in  the  event  of  the  natives  proving  hostile ;  but  on  no  ac 
count  to  fire  until  he  was  convinced  that  our  safety  could  be 
secured  in  no  other  way.  Having  received  an  impression 
from  the  narratives  of  different  navigators  that  the  sacrifices  of 
life  which  had  occurred  in  their  interviews  with  savages,  had 
been  generally  occasioned  by  the  crews  mistaking  noise  and 


July.] 


OF  THE  J'OLAR  SEA. 


m,  accompa- 


97 
^S?St^t^»;  L"K^  ^^  -ce.a^  to 

also  forbidden  to  tide  w  th^L^'^/'"^"*  ^^'^^'     Th^y  were 

were  ordered  to  leave  eTerv  hL  ofIh%7T  P^^^^"'^'  «"d 

On  quitting  the  channer^fKiv^^^^^^^^  *.''^"  "ffi^^''^- 

which  was  about  six  miJp,  wjJf      ?!  ^  ^"^^'"^^  '"to  the  bay, 

to  seaward,  and  steered  ^  J 1%"'^^  "".'''""'^'^  P'-^P-^^ 
the  ensigns  flyin..     ThpT!!     u    *^"*^  ""^^*'  easy  sail,  with 

towardsihe  isfan^',  and  thTb^at^frt  fll''''  '' ^'  ^^^^w 
about  a  miJe  from  the  L^Ph  touched  the  ground  when 

the  Esquimaux  to  come  ofc^^  "^'^^  ^'^S^st 

to  await  their  arrivalbdefper  wafer  ^S  '  ''"^'  "^''^^^'^ 
put  off  from  the  shore,  and  before  thpv,f/^"°f  '"^*«»tly 
were  launched  in  such  quick  s.r.l-^  T^^  ""^^^^  "s  others 
between  the  island  and  l^hL  Ll      '"""'  ^^^*  *he  whole  space 
Esquimaux  canoes  contain  ont  T.  nT '"'  '^.^^^'"-    ^^''^ 
/?:«^y«c/{:.,.  but  they  have  a  kind  n?.    P^l'^*'"' and  are  named 
ing  six  or  eight  peonll    wh  rh  ^     P^"  ^^^  ^^P^^le  of  hold- 
alone  use  tht  kaiyacki    «n J  ^?  "  ""^""^^  '''^'"'''     The  men 
•  women  and  chlE.^%?."/e„laT  ^"^"^^  ^^'he 

bers  as  they  approached  ).nAu  f  ^^^  *®  *^°""t  their  num- 
three  canois,^aTfive  'oomiakf  ^T^'t^  ''  ^'^'^  ^^venty- 
crowded  by  fresh  arrivLZtw'^^??  ?^  '^^  became  so 
our  reckoning.  The  three  he«dmn?"''^  '^'"""^  "«  ^^^-ther  in 
elderly  men,  iho,mos^^^^^^^^^^  Paddled  by 

the  communication.     They  adva '  ed  f^'"  j'^^^'*"^  *«  «Pe« 
caution,  halting  when  iustwffhln         Z^'*'^''^'  "^  with  much 
had  been  assurld  of  o(^r  fril^d^pPr^^^  ^'^Jf  ^'  ""^"  ^'^e' 
Augustus  to  approach  and  recPiv?;^"^  repeatedly  invited  by 
to  them.    Augistus  next  exp  a  ned  t^  ?h'''"'  ^^^'^^  '  ^^^^^^^ 
port  of  our  vi?it,  and  told  them  that  fM""  '"  ^f''^^^'^  P""- 
a  navigable  channel  for  lanre  lin!     T^  ^"cceeded  in  finding 
to  them  would  be  opened  Ve^P''"  ^^i^^.^highly  beneficial 
elhgence,  and  repeated  it  to  theTr  Tn     f^^'^^'^^^  ^^'^"^  ^^'^^  *"- 
their  joy  by  tossing  Se ir  Lnd    1^  '^.™'"j  -^^^  *^«*'fied 

feh^r.^^'pP'--^^^^^^^^^^^^^  """^  ^'^  '"^^^ 

tuitty,tt^l^;^^^^^  bestow  no  more  gra- 

return;  the  three  elderly  men  re^dl  v'ol  ^Tf^'  ^^"'^"' *" 
they  wore  in  their  cheeks  Xt ?  ^  ^fT^  "^^  ornaments 
for  the  articles  I  gave  theV  rjn?';^^^"'""^' '«  ^^^hange 
weretheonlykaiyacks  th^U^  /''''  ^"'"^  the  first  thrfe 
the  natives  .Lll^^  i^^*  ^^^  ventured  near  th^  h.^t-  H,? 

"  "       "'""""  '^^  ^^^  "^^^  73^^eased  to  two  YundTed'a'd 


98 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


fh      I 


fifty  or  three  hundred  persons,  and  they  all  became  anxious  to 
bhare  in  the  lucrative  trade  which  they  saw  established,  and 
pressed  eagerly  upon  us,  otfering  for  sale  their  bows,  arrows, 
and  spears,  which  they  had  hitherto  kept  concealed  within 
their  canoes.  I  endeavoured  in  vain,  amidst  the  clamour  and 
bustle  of  trade,  to  obtain  some  information  respecting  the 
coast,  but  finding  the  natives  becoming  more  and  more  impor- 
tunate and  troublesome,  I  determined  to  leave  them,  and, 
therefore,  directed  the  boats'  heads  to  be  put  to  seaward.  Not- 
withstanding the  forwardness  of  the  Esquimaux,  which  we  at- 
tributed solely  to  the  desire  of  a  rude  people  to  obtain  the 
novel  articles  they  saw  in  our  possession,  they  had  hitherto 
shown  no  unfriendly  disposition ;  and  when  we  told  them  of 
our  intention  of  going  to  sea,  they  expressed  no  desire  to  de- 
tain us,  but,  on  the  contrary,  when  the  Lion  grounded  in  the 
act  of  turning,  they  assisted  us  in  the  kindest  manner  by  drag- 
ging her  round.  This  manoeuvre  was  not  of  much  advantage 
to  us,  for,  from  the  rapid  ebbing  of  the  tide,  both  boats  lay 
aground;  and  the  Esquimaux  told  us,  through  the  medium  of 
Augustus,  that  the  whole  bay  was  alike  flat,  which  we  after- 
wards found  to  be  correct. 

An  accident  happened  at  this  time,  which  was  productive 
of  unforeseen  and  very  annoying  consequences.  A  kaiyack 
being  overset  by  one  of  the  Lion's  oars,  its  owner  was  plunged 
into  the  water  with  his  head  in  the  mud,  and  apparently  in 
danger  of  being  drowned.  We  instantly  extricated  him  from 
his  unpleasant  situation,  and  took  him  into  the  boat  until  the 
water  could  be  thrown  out  of  his  kaiyack,  and  Augustus,  see- 
ing him  shivering  with  cold,  wrapped  him  up  in  his  own  great 
coat.  At  first  he  was  exceedingly  angry,  but  soon  became  re- 
conciled to  his  situation,  and  looking  about,  discovered  that  we 
had  many  bales,  and  other  articles,  in  the  boat,  which  had  been 
concealed  from  the  people  in  the  kaiyacks,  by  the  coverings 
being  carefully  spread  over  all.  He  soon  began  to  ask  for 
every  thing  he  saw,  and  expressed  much  displeasure  on  our 
refusing  to  comply  with  his  demands ;  he  also,  as  we  after- 
wards learned,  excited  the  cupidity  of  others  by  his  account  of 
the  inexhaustible  riches  in  the  Lion,  and  several  of  the 
younger  men  endeavoured  to  get  into  both  our  boats,  but  we 
resisted  all  their  attempts.  Though  we  had  not  hitherto  ob- 
served any  of  them  stealing,  yet  they  showed  so  much  desire 
to  obtain  my  flag,  that  I  had  it  furled  and  put  out  of  sight,  as 
well  as  every  thing  else  that  I  thought  could  prove  a  tempta- 
tion to  them.  They  continued,  however,  to  press  upon  us  so 
closely,  and  made  so  many  efforts  to  get  into  the  boats,  that  I 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


99 


in  fact,  stolen  frorL^en  !nlf  S  ^  L°"^^"^-  '*  had  been, 
our  attention  Sted  to  ?t  1^  !i  '  ?"r  *^"  *'^'^^'  Perceiving 
his  countrymen  carrvil^  with  ^^^  °1*  ""^  *'^"  ^"^^^  «nd  joined 
gustus  had^l^nt  hir^'"^  ""'^^  '""^  ^'^^  8''^^^  «<^«t  which  Au- 

The  water  had  now  ebhpH  en  fan  tu^t  -i. 
at  the  boats,  and  the  younger  men  wIh    ''  ^''  "^*  ^"^  ^^^P 
us,  tried  to  steal  evPrv  fK  "".^".^^^^'ng  '"  crowds  around 

ev^r,  and  wittso  Sd  K  Is  ll'"  ^^^  '  ^'^'^'  '^°^- 
tion.  The  mome^  thU  .jln  ? '  *''"'*'^  ***  ^^^ape  detec 
the  crews  noT^  uffer Iv  oC trV''  r^^n\restea,  fdirected 
Augustus  to  tell  the  two  ch?'^^!  ^'^  ?,°™t.^  o^g^'de,  and  desired 
the  Lion,  tha  the  noL^nH'  f  '.^'"  ^^'"^'"ed  seated  in 
crowd  around  thph^  ?,  ^^.^"^"sion  occasioned  by  the 

that  if  thr/^tSV'^t  S'^ai?^^      our  exertionsf  and 

we  would  hereaftefreturnfrl^heshr  Z^t'  ^^'  P''^^^"^' 
to  meet  near  this  part  ofThp  .^  !      Ju'P  '^^'^'^  ^^  expected 
ply  of  goods.     Kv  rece^vprfh-  '  '"*''  ^  "l^'"  ^^""^^"t  «"P- 
apparent  satisfact^  rnd'^mptg  ^uT  0?^^^  ."'^'^  ""^^ 
the  speech  aloud  to  their  comnlnl.      ^   ^  ^°**^  repeated 
clamation  of  «  J^  «  'S^^nU     ''.  ^''r.*''^  g^"^'-^!  e^' 
inanyoftheelderrLnrettS^^^^^         ^"^  P^'*^^'^''"g 
they  acquiesced  in^  t^e  prooHet^  nf  .t"'^'  ^  ''^-"^^'^^^  ^^at 
they  were  going  away  bJt Tw.^      u!  '"gg^^^ion,  and  that 
retired  to  concert  a  plan  nf  !  f    ^^  ^T^''^^'     They  only 
time  shouting  some  words  whirh^A'  '"^.  ''^"''"^^  '»  '^^hort 
out.     We  soon,  hTwever  di  coIp  JT  •*"'  '°"'^  "^*  "^^^e 
the  three  chiefs  whrwere  on  bSl  ^'j?''!  P"''Port,  by  two  of 
and,  with  the  others  X  hurried  to  tL^"''""'^^^ 
her  towards  the  south  shore  of  11    •     '  ^T^^'''^''^  ^''^gg'ng 
desired  the  chief  who  remainpH       /k  l"'-     lieutenant  Back 
sist,  but  he  replied  Wportirto  Thp  h^'"l^"  ^f  '^'"^  *«  ^^^ 
word  teyma,  tevma  l\itT^\    ^^^  beach,  and  repeating  the 
ever,  soSinno  Ze  ir^"^*"^^^  '^^^'  He  said,  IZ 
were  alona^Wj"^..^  ^,Ju  !._^^  ^f  ^  seated  in  the  canoed  that 
°  ■     '  ''  ''^""  '""^y  threw  their  long  knives  and 


"1 


fi    n 


'  il 


m  h 


100  SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES  [1826. 

arrows  into  the  boat,  taking  care,  in  so  doing,  that  the  handles 
and  feathered  ends  were  turned  towards  the  crew,  as  an  indi- 
cation of  pacific  intentions. 

As  soon  as  I  perceived  the  Reliance  moving  under  the  ef- 
forts of  the  natives,  I  directed  the  Lion^s  crew  to  endeavour  to 
follow  her,  but  our  boat  remained  fast  until  the  Esquimaux 
lent  their  aid  and  dragged  her  after  the  Reliance.  Two  of  the 
most  powerful  men,  jumping  on  board  at  the  same  time,  seized 
me  by  the  wrists  and  forced  me  to  sit  between  them ;  and  as  I 
shook  them  loose  two  or  three  times,  a  third  Esquimaux  took 
his  station  in  front  to  catch  my  arm  whenever  I  attempted  to 
lift  my  gun,  or  the  broad  dagger  which  hung  by  my  side.  The 
whole  way  to  the  shore  they  kept  repeating  the  word  "  teyma^^'' 
beating  gently  on  my  left  breast  with  their  hands,  and  pressing 
mine  against  their  breasts.  As  we  neared  the  beach,  two 
oomiaks,  full  of  women,  arrived,  and  the  "  teymas''^  and  voci- 
feration were  redoubled.  The  Reliance  was  first  brought  to  the 
shore,  and  the  Lion  close  to  her  a  few  seconds  afterwards. 
The  three  mea  who  held  me  now  leaped  ashore,  and  those 
who  had  remained  in  their  canoes  taking  them  out  of  the  water, 
carried  them  to  a  little  distance.  A  numerous  party  then 
drawing  their  knives,  and  stripping  themselves  to  the  waist, 
ran  to  the  Reliance,  and  having  first  hauled  her  as  far  up  as 
they  could,  began  a  regular  pillage,  handing  the  articles  to  the 
women,  who,  ranged  in  a  row  behind,  quickly  conveyed  them 
out  of  sight.  Lieutenant  Back  and  his  crew  strenuously,  but 
good-humouredly,  resisted  the  attack,  and  rescued  many  things 
from  their  grasp,  but  they  were  overpowered  by  numbers, 
and  had  even  some  difficulty  in  preserving  their  arms.  One 
fellow  had  the  audacity  to  snatch  Vivier's  knife  from  his  breast, 
and  to  cut  the  buttons  from  his  coat,  whilst  three  stout  Esqui- 
maux surrounded  Lieutenant  Back  with  uplifted  daggers,  and 
were  incessant  in  their  demands  for  whatever  attracted  their 
attention,  especially  for  the  anchor  buttons  which  he  wore  on 
his  waistcoat.  In  this  juncture  a  young  chief  coming  to  his 
aid,  drove  the  assailants  away.  In  their  retreat  they  carried 
off  a  writing  desk  and  cloak,  which  the  chief  rescued,  and  then 
seating  himself  on  Lieutenant  Back's  knee,  he  endeavoured  to 
persuade  his  countrymen  to  desist  by  vociferating  '» teyma 
teyma,''  and  was,  indeed,  very  active  in  saving  whatever  he 
could  from  their  depredations.  The  Lion  had  hitherto  been 
beset  by  smaller  numbers,  and  her  crew,  by  firmly  keeping 
their  seats  on  the  cover  spread  over  the  cargo,  and  by  beating 
the  natives  off  with  the  butt-ends  of  their  muskets,  had  been 
able  to  prevent  any  article  of  importance  from  being  carried 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


101 

tus  to^s^st  in  UrS  the  t^m.?  ;'"'':! '  ""'?*  with  Augus- 
iittle  interpreteSed  ImnnlT      '  '"?  '*"''  ^^'^  «"^  «<^tive 

Duncan,  who  ca£  o^h^"r/fh\'.r'y"'".'"^"^^  b**^k  by 
commenced  in  ea  nest  to  nh.nT.  ^h*  *r^-  ^^^"•'"a"^  ^ad  now 
I  found  the  side/o?  hi  f  f  r*'' *.*'^^'*'"' ^nd  on  my  return. 

could  stand!  b-di:Lng^  ^  Kst'th^^^^^^^^  **^^^ 

away  the  stolen  goods  Th?"f^  ?"  ^^"  ^"*^'^«  ^^^^^  t«  bear 
but  as  it  was TmpSie  for  so  m  "l '  ""'^  l""  ^^P*  *^^'^  ^^^^s, 
a  formidable  a^rde  erm.viru"i'"  ^  """™^^'  *«  ^^^ep  off  such 
ried  off.     Our  princtaTo^^^^  T''^  «^"^'^«  ^^^^  car- 

arms,  oars,  or  ma  Js  or  «nf  fk-  ^'  *^  P""^^^"*  ^'^^  loss  of  the 
of  the  voyage,  or  our  perLaHJ';  ""^'^  '^'  continuance 
tempts  were^  ^aSe  o  Tur  oin  thf  h^'  depeM.  Many  at- 
nomical  instruments,  and  Duncan  af^rV""*''"'"^*^"  «^*^«- 
their  hands,  made  i    fast  to  hU  L        5"'^^  '^'^"'"g  '*  ^om 

*t  S7  ^."' W^  ^-  -^  a  o  'T^^y\ZY''''"''''^' 

n^Jnlttf.^:^^^^^^^^^^ 

the  Esquimaux  received  th.  hi    '"J^^  "^''^^^^  ^'th  which 

the  butts  of  the  muskets     BuJft?  ^Ir?  ''•"^'^  *«  ^^em  with 

often  foiled  in  their  attemnf;/      'engjh  irritated  at  being  so 

and  forcibly  ende  ;ot:7to%a\;'te''d''"  ^'""P^^^  ?»^«"^ 
that  were  about  the  men's  peiLon, .  «n^  ?^^^"  ,5"^  shot-belts 
with  three  of  them  w^o  we?e7ry  nl  to  d;  "^^^^^^ '^f.  engaged 
Back  perceiving  our  situ^tfon  Tnlf  fn  ^^'"^  "'^  .Lieutenant 
tives  in  not  coming  to  extremUip,  h  fl  «PP^f 'ating  my  mo- 
my  assistance  theyluLchiTwi.  k  ^"^  ^^^  ^'"^"^^^  ^  ^^^d  to 
on  his  arrival,  drove  £  w         'j^^  Protected  him,  and  who 

saw  that  my  crew  wer7n.ir"''*'  °"*  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^'     I  then 

oftheboatfandLSnr^^^^^^^^^  ^^^  5^" 

time  to  prevent  Geome  W  Ison  Xn.^  '^-  ^''/^^"".^tely  arrived  in 
of  his  musket  into  Sodv  of  1  F      discharging  the  contents 
a  provocation  of  which  I  Ls  f-^''^^^''^^-^^^ 
the  follow  had  str^k  at  hfm  jri'^^r^"'  *5"  "^^*  d«7'  for 
coat  and  waistcoat-  «n5  •  f  ^"/^'  «"d  cut  through  his     ' 

that  I  lea^nef  ttt  GustavuTrrd'^th'^^^^  '^'  ^^"^^^  --  « 'e 
and  three  of  the  Rehance!^,  tr^     'k  I  ^^^'^^^  ^^  ^^e  Lion, 
from  being  wounded  thefrcE  k'*^  "'^^  "^'"''^^'^^  escaped 
at  them  with  knives     nTs'I!!!'  ''"'"F '"^ ^^ ^'^^  ^'^^^  "'ade 

"   '"'  "'^s  the  DOW  clear  of  one  set 


103 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182C. 


«i!^ 


I 


Tllll 

ill 


of  marauders,  than  another  party  commenced  their  operations 
at  the  stern.  My  gun  was  now  the  object  of  the  struggle, 
which  was  beginning  to  assume  a  more  serious  complexion, 
when  the  whole  of  the  Esquimaux  suddenly  fled,  and  hid  them- 
selves behind  the  drift  timber  and  canoes  on  the  beach.  It 
appears  that  by  the  exertions  of  the  crew,  the  Reliance  was 
again  afloat,  and  Lieutenant  Back  wisely  judging  that  this  was 
the  proper  moment  for  more  active  interference,  directed  his 
men  to  level  their  muskets,  which  had  prodnced  that  sudden 
panic.  The  Lion  happily  floated  soon  after,  and  both  were 
retiring  from  the  beach,  when  the  Esquimaux  having  recovered 
from  their  consternation,  put  their  kaiyacks  in  the  water,  and 
were  preparing  to  follow  us ;  but  I  desired  Augustus  to  say  that 
I  would  shoot  the  first  man  who  came  within  range  of  our  mus- 
kets, which  prevented  them. 

It  was  now  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  we  had 
been  engaged  in  this  harrassing  contest  for  several  hours,  yet 
the  only  things  of  importance  which  they  had  carried  off  were 
the  mess  canteen  and  kettles,  a  tent,  a  bale  containing  blanket^ 
and  shoes,  one  of  the  men's  bags,  and  the  jib-sails.  The  other 
articles  they  took  could  well  be  spared,  and  they  would,  in 
fact,  have  been  distributed  amongst  them,  had  they  remained 
quiet.  The  place  to  which  the  boats  were  dragged  is  desig- 
nated by  the  name  of  Pillage  Point.  I  cannot  sufficiently 
praise  the  fortitude  and  obedience  of  both  the  boats'  crews  in 
abstaining  from  the  use  of  their  arms.  In  the  first  instance  I 
had  been  influenced  by  the  desire  of  preventing  unnecessary 
bloodshed,  and  afterwards,  when  the  critical  situation  of  my 
party  might  have  well  warranted  me  in  employing  more  de- 
cided means  for  their  defence,  I  still  endeavoured  to  temporize, 
being  convinced  that  as  long  as  the  boats  lay  aground,  and  we 
were  beset  by  such  numbers,  armed  with  long  knives,  bows, 
arrows,  and  spears,  we  could  not  use  fire-arms  to  advantage. 
The  howling  of  the  women,  and  the  clamour  of  the  men,  proved 
the  high  excitement  to  which  they  had  wrought  themselves; 
and  I  am  still  of  opinion  that,  mingled  as  we  were  with  them, 
the  first  blood  we  had  shed  would  have  been  instantly  revenged 
by  the  sacrifice  of  all  our  lives. 

The  preceding  narrative  shows  that,  bad  as  the  general  con- 
duct of  the  Esquimaux  was,  we  had  some  active  friends  amongst 
them;  and  I  was  particularly  desirous  of  cultivating  a  good 
understanding  with  them,  for  we  were  as  yet  ignorant  of  the 
state  of  the  ice  at  sea,  and  did  not  know  how  long  we  should 
have  to  remain  in  their  neighbourhood.  I  was  determined, 
however,  now  to  keep  them  at  bay,  and  to  convince  them,  if 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


103 


TtillA   .       ^J""*^^  ''^'*^'"«  ^'»e  boats  again  took  the  trronnH 
♦hof  #k      **  '^scenained  by  the  men  vvadinir  n  cverv  dirprfinn 

r^tt^tXr^rr'^^^ 

iittle  ibnow  en Kted  o"fa  n  ^Tll  'I'T  *«  S"'  '^"^  ^^e  brave 
land  and  reprove  the  E^mlTV^l '•  ^'^"'^  '^^^'  ^'"^  to 
length  consented    and  tZ  m.      ^""^  ^^^  '°"^"^*'  ^^^^^  '  ^^ 

you'ng  chief  whotractdin'^Trie'nlv^'  '"  """^'  *'^*  '""^ 
the  number  on  the  beach  Vvihor^^IlTT^'''^'  ^"'^"g^* 
the  shore,  the  numhprnf  K-c^  ""^  ^^^^^  Augustus  reached 

watched  v^th  great  anxe^vTh""'""  ^T^'"^  *"  ^^''y^  «"d  we 
ried  on  with  them  nT)J  !  ^"'7^^^^^  conversation  he  car- 
was  as  fo  lows  w.  Your  rnn?"";"  ^  'H  "^  *''^*  ''«  P"''P«''t 

tad,  and  unlTke  that  of  all  ot%r^  ^^^  "  ^^  ^^^"  '^''y 
even  stole  from  me  vo  ,r  i.    I      ^^qu/maux.     Some  of  you 

I  onlv  re|r  uIToH^^^^  ^f^.  ^  -iL  ; 

tX  t:;t  t^si^f rhT  -f F^  4^.^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

before  the  white  peoole  rnm/Fnt*"  I.".,^^'"^  ^«"  "^^  «re, 
are  supplied  w  th^everv  th^^^^^^^^^  Church.ll  but  at  present  they 
well  clothed  r  get  aJHha  f  i^  ^"''^.'  '"^  >^°"  ^^^  ^^at  lam 
You  cannot  expert  aftVri.,  '*•"''  ^"^  '^^''^  comfortable, 
people  will  eve^r  Srinf/ood!  J''^"^^*^*'^"^  ^^  ^^is  day,  that  these 
sho^  your  contriti  7byT^^^^  again%nless  you 

people  love  the  Esquilux  and^Ji  h  to  sl^^w^fh:*  J.k'  "^'^^ 
kmdness  that  they  bestow  mon  thfi  a-  .    ""  ^^^  ^^"^^ 

yourselves,  and  suLosetM  ^'T'  ^«  ««*  deceive 

they  are  nit!  and  tharft  fs  In/ ^i""'  '■''"^  ^'^^^^^  I  tell  you 
that  many  of  you  were  not  kS  J'T^  *".  ^^'''  ^"•"^"'ty 
guns,  with  which  thlvr^ni  .  ^"^  ^^'^^^^  ^^^  they  have  all 
t  dis'tance     I  also  K^-^^^^  ''"'  when  near  or  a 

white  man  had  fallen  I  woaldh^  ?"  '?"^^  ^^^^  that  if  a 
venged  his  death  "'         "'^  ^"^"^^  ^^^"  ^^^  ^^'^  to  have  re- 

suc?a%;r^^dettff :  rcl'Tf'  f  ^""5^"  ^^^  ^ ' 
remarkable  instance  of  nil«nn^  ^  ^^  ^'"'^'^  •"«"'  ^^^  a 

by  the  shouts  ofTpi:2e"S'X^^^^^^^^  perceive, 

wj.st,..  i„cjr  m,uu  jne  pauses  in 


104  SECOND  JO.UBNEy  TO  THE  SHORES  [IS^^l. 

his  harangue,  that  they  assented  to  his  arguments,  and  he  told 
us  that  they  had  expressed  great  sorrow  for  having  given  us  so 
much  cause  of  offence,  and  pleaded,  in  mitigation  of  their  con- 
duct, that  they  had  never  seen  white  people  before,  that  every 
thing  in  our  possession  was  so  new  to  them,  and  so  desirable, 
that  they  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  steaHng,  and  beg- 
pfd  him  to  assure  us  that  they  never  would  do  the  like  again, 
Lot  they  were  anxious  to  be  on  terms  of  friendship  with  us, 
that  they  might  partake  of  the  benefits  which  his  tribe  derived 
from  their  intercourse  with  the  white  people.     I  told  Augustus 
to  put  titieir  sincerity  to  the  test  by  desiring  thenr  to  bring  back 
a  large  kettle  and  the  tent,  which  they  did,  together  with  some 
shoes,  having  sent  for  them  to  the  island  whither  they  had  been 
conveyed.    After  this  act  of  restitution,  Augustus  requested  to 
be  permitted  to  join  a  dance  to  which  they  had  invited  him, 
and  he  was,  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  engaged  in  dancing  and 
singing  with  all  his  might  in  the  midst  of  a  company  who  were 
all  armed  with  knives,  or  bows  and  arrows.     He  afterward^ 
told  us  that  he  was  much  delighted  on  finding  that  the  words  of 
the  song,  and  the  different  attitudes  of  the  dances,  were  pre- 
cisely similar  to  those  used  in  his  own  country  when  a  friendly 
meeting  took  place  with  strangers.     Augustus  now  learned 
from  them  that  there  was  a  regular  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tide  in 
this  bay,  and  that  when  the  sun  came  round  to  a  particular 
Luint  there  would  be  water  enough  to  float  the  boats,  if  we 
kept  along  the  western  shore.     This  communication  relieved 
me  from  much  anxiety,  for  the  water  was  perfectly  fresh,  and 
from  the  flood-tide  having  passed  unperceived  whilst  we  were 
engaged  with  the  Esquimaux,  it  appeared  to  us  to  have  been 
subsiding  for  the  preceding  twelve  hours,  which  naturally  ex- 
cited doubts  of  our  being  able  to  effect  a  passage  to  the  sea  in 
this  direction. 

The  Esquimaux  gradually  retired  as  the  night  advanced ; 
and  when  there  were  only  a  few  remaining,  two  of  our  men 
were  sent  to  a  fire  which  they  had  made,  to  prepare  chocolate 
for  the  refreshment  of  the  party.  Up  to  this  period  we  re- 
mained seated  in  the  boats,  with  our  muskets  in  out  hands, 
and  keeping  a  vigilant  look  out  on  Augustus,  and  the  natives 
around  him.  As  they  had  foretold,  the  water  began  to  flow 
Saturday  8th  ^^°"*^  midnight,  and  by  half  past  one  in  the 
^'  '  morning  of  the  8th  it  was  sufficiently  deep  to 
allow  of  our  dragging  the  boats  forward  to  a  part  where  they 
floated.  We  pulled  along  the  western  shore  about  six  miles, 
till  the  appearance  of  the  sky  bespoke  the  immediate  approach 

C    III 


au  3vaiV.CiJr    xailUCU   UCiUlC  It,  buIUC   UU    Wilil 


II   I   1 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


105 


the  saiJs  and  ri|ing  hXstSV^JX  aUet^^^^^  ft 

haze,the^Llebod;ote  o  i^a^1  ntf'  ''^^^"^^  ^'^^ 
Uncertain  of  the  puroort  of  f hi"     •  •.   paddlmg  towards  us. 

open  a  conference  So  laLerhir*'""^""'  ^^°°«'"g  to 
vantageous  as  our  oTeslf  «n!^      ,  ^/ '"  *  ''*"«*•«»  so  dilad- 

throufh  the  surf"  aKadtherJ;^^^^  '^  '^""^"^  '^'  ^^^^ 

ceiving  that  wh;n  onceTiHyTfloat  w."^  "*,'3?*  ^P^^^5  con- 
ber  at  bay.  We  had  sca^ceVSed Tnt^  keep  anj.  num. 
some  of  the  kaiyacks  had  arrivpd  tii-  ^^^p  w^ter  before 
and  the  man  in  the  headmost  onlhnu"  '^^''^'"S  ^'«t«nce, 
aloud  that  he  wished  LrSu^TiSd/h"!  Z'  "  '^""^^'  <=«"«d 
was  some  distance  beWnd  conta^npd^h  i*''"  "r'^*^  ^»^><^h 
stolen  from  us,  whichte7we"  *f,?/'^^*  ^ad  been 
ceivmg  m  return  anv  nrpJnt  fhoV  •  I   f  ^^^toring,  and  re- 

I  did  not  deem  it  oSnf  ^^^'^  "^'^^^  ^^  ^'^Posed  to  give 
things  in  tht^o  LTonthicr^^^^^^  ^'^f  ^^4  «^  '"^^^^ 
whole  party  collecting  arWnd  uranTr^^^V*"  '^^"''^  ^'^^'^ 
gustus  to  tell  them  to  go  back  h^lf  fh  '  *^^'*^f«''e,  desired  Au- 
until  I  fired  a  ball  ahefd  oTL  \TJ^^^  <^o^timed  to  advance 
desired  effect-the  whole  n«rfv  -'"^  '^^"°^'  ^^"^'^h  had  the 
followed  us  for  fliTtle  wa^v  -^n^^^^^^^ 
companions.  ^  '^^^'  ^"^  ^^»^  ^^nt  back  to  join  their 

theset;^^^^^  elSt^-r  ^".^^  -'^^ 

of  the  people  we  had  to  deal  with    and  f  Vl  w.^  H  '^"^^^*^^ 
would  be  incomplete  withouTth;  ml  •        ''^V*^^  a^c°"«t 
some  communications  made  ?o  ,  ,1n^K     °"'  T  ^^''  P'^^-^  of 
lowing,  which  fully  explabed  thV    ^  "'°"*^  ^^  ^"gust  fol- 
We  learned  that  up^o  tfee   h^atTh^e  k.7  V"'"'  ^' "^"^^• 
Esquimaux  were  actuated  by  tL  mLf  r  •    /,^''> '^'*' "P^^t,  the 
us,  but  tliat  the  fellow  IoV^^ZIT''^^ ^ 
he  accident,  discovering  what ^heblr'*'?  •  °  5'"^^^  ^^^e'' 
to  the  younger  men  to^iHa  1  tLm      tT*''"'^' P''«P^««d 
buzzed  about,  and  led  to  thF.     r  ^'^"'  suggestion  was 

hdd  together' when  Id  :iredthrm[:"r  "'"^^'^^  ^'^  --" 
."i*l!7 -^^-ided  upon'nd'r Jr.f J:ri^^^^  ^  ?'-^  the 
.-.----..  .a.  u  ..ouid  be  attended  ^witf  tl^rt^^rm^rc;- 


106 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


our  party.  Providentially  a  few  suggested  the  impropriety  of 
including  Augustus ;  and  for  a  reason  which  could  scarcely 
have  been  imagined.  "  If  we  kill  him,"  said  they,  "  no  more 
white  people  will  visit  our  lands,  and  we  shall  lose  the  oppor- 
tunity of  getting  a  supply  of  their  valuable  goods;  but  if  we 
spare  him,  he  can  be  sent  back  with  a  story  which  we  shall 
invent  to  induce  another  party  of  white  people  to  come  among 
This  argument  prevailed  at  the  time;  but  after  the  in- 


us. 


llHii 


terviews  with  Augustus  at  the  dance,  they  retired  to  their 
island,  where  they  were  so  much  inflamed  by  the  sight  of  the 
valuable  articles  which  they  had  obtained,  that  they  all,  with- 
out exception,  regretted  that  they  had  allowed  us  to  escape. 
While  in  this  frame  of  mind  the  smoke  of  our  fire  being  dis- 
covered, a  consultation  was  immediately  held,  and  a  very  art- 
ful plan  laid  for  the  destruction  of  the  party,  including  Augus- 
tus, whom  they  conceived  to  be  so  firmly  attached  to  us  that  it 
was  in  vain  to  attempt  to  win  him  to  their  cause.  They  ex- 
pected to  find  us  on  shore;  but  to  provide  against  the  boats 
getting  away  if  we  should  have  embarked,  they  caused  some 
kettles  to  be  fastened  conspicuously  to  the  leading  kaiyack,  in 
order  to  induce  us  to  stop.  The  kaiyacks  were  then  to  be 
placed  in  such  a  position  as  to  hamper  the  boats,  and  their 
owners  were  to  keep  us  in  play  until  the  whole  party  had 
come  up,  when  the  attack  was  to  commence.  Through  the 
blessing  of  Providence,  their  scheme  was  frustrated. 

But  to  resume  the  narrative  of  the  voyage.  The  breeze 
became  moderate  and  fair;  the  sails  were  set,  and  we  passed 
along  the  coast  in  a  W.N.W.  direction,  until  eleven  in  the  even- 
ing, when  we  halted  on  a  low  island,  covered  with  drift  wood, 
to  repair  the  sails,  and  to  put  the  boats  in  proper  order  for  a 
sea  voyage.  The  continuance  and  increase  of  the  favourable 
wind  urged  us  to  make  all  possible  despatch,  and  at  three  in 
the  morning  of  the  9th  again  embarking,  we  kept 
Sunday,  9th.     j^  ^j^^.^^  fathoms  water  at  the  distance  of  two 

miles  from  the  land.  After  sailing  twelve  miles,  our  progress 
was  completely  stopped  by  the  ice  adhering  to  the  shore,  and 
stretching  beyond  the  limits  of  our  view  to  seaward.  We 
could  not  effect  a  landing  until  we  had  gone  back  some  miles, 
as  we  had  passed  a  sheet  of  ice  which  was  fast  to  the  shore; 
but  at  length  a  convenient  spot  being  found,  the  boats  were 
hauled  up  on  the  beach.  We  quickly  ascended  to  the  top  of 
the  bank  to  look  around,  and  from  thence  had  the  mortification 
to  perceive  that  we  had  just  arrived  in  time  to  witness  the  first 
rupture  of  the  ice.   The  onlv  lane  of  water  in  the  direction  of 

-^     •«*#««•     4-V«n4    fw*r\*tf*     mtHi/*!^     «t»A    rioH   Vv«»or»    fj-\f«#*z\H    frt    ft%Tf£kO,k* 


Out  course 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA, 


lor 


in  every  other  part  the  sea  appeared  as  firmly  frozen  as  in  win 

stone^s'o7anJV'''.'  Pai't  consists  of  black  earth,  unmixed  with 
Stv  ?pnf7h  ^"1^'.^"^  '*«  g«'^eral  elevation  is  from  sixtT  o 
hu'.^edtdXteT  77  'It  \^"^"^  into  hills  of  [J: 
extends  fro^tS^foLfr' P.'"'";  ^^^^ 

of  the  RorkrMoStwW  h7h1v"r„l:e& 
esteemed  companion  D^.  Richardrn!  the"'^,,"^"  7t,,""r'''" 
po  a  Mountains,  which  we  had  seen  from  Garry  Island  »t  ^h"' 

a"P"„fSa*'-     ^-  P^'^"-  "f-o-'^e^X^ihlet 
we"Srldttd^trel7'/r  Kl^  ^"<' .™-«''». 

t'jo,  as  he'  p:infed'o'ir?h'e''atXe:To  ^e'tiv^f^ 
quest  was'granS  a.'h,rdesirr'""'  ""  '"'"^''"'  =  ""''''  - 

h«ndtr.'„'d  fif^^7;i7i  rntrft^"?"  r '"« '^-''  o- 

tance  from  the  boatr.hlv  .         *5  '^"'•.''"'' '"'«  'ha'  dis- 

n*arest.p"rrchwhic'h'^J„;'f?;re'r"-"^"'''  "ff"-'^  "'''  "'«^ 

to  make;  kad  that  ^tthi7L    J       "^ ,  ^  '™'''''  ""^  permitted 

,  ana  tnat  at  this  boundary  only  would  gifls'be  made. 


W' 


108  SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES  [18  26 

and  barter  carried  on.  Augustus  was  likewise  desired  to  ex- 
plain to  them  the  destructive  power  of  our  guns,  and  to  assure 
them  that  every  person  would  be  shot  who  should  pass  the 
prescribed  limit.  This  plan  was  adopted  in  all  succeeding  in- 
terviews with  the  Esquimaux.  After  five  hours'  absence  Au- 
gustus returned,  accompanied  by  twenty  men  and  two  elderly 
women,  who  halted  at  the  boundary.  They  had  come  with- 
out bows  or  arrows,  by  the  desire  of  Augustus,  and,  following 
his  instruction,  each  gave  Lieutenant  Back  and  myself  a  hearty 
shake  of  the  hand.  We  made  presents  to  every  one,  of  beads, 
fish-hooks,  awls,  and  trinkets ;  and  that  they  might  have  entire 
confidence  in  the  whole  party,  our  men  were  furnished  with 
beads  to  present  to  them.  The  men  were  directed  to  advance 
singly,  and  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  the  Esquimaux  from 
counting  our  number,  unless  they  paid  the  greatest  attention, 
which  they  were  not  likely  to  do  while  their  minds  were  oc- 
cupied by  a  succession  of  novelties. 

Our  visitors  were  soon  quite  at  ease,  and  we  were  preparing 
to  question  them  respecting  the  coast,  and  the  time  of  re- 
moval of  the  ice,  when  Augustus  begged  that  he  might  put  on 
his  gayest  dress,  and  his  medals,  before  the  conference  began. 
This  was  the  work  of  a  few  seconds  ;  but  when  he  returned, 
surprise  and  delight  at  his  altered  appearance  and  numerous 
ornaments  so  engaged  their  minds,  that  their  attention  could 
not  be  drawn  to  any  other  subject  for  the  next  half  hour. 
"  Ah,"  said  an  old  man,  taking  up  his  medals, "  these  must  have 
been  made  by  such  people  as  you  have  been  describing,  for 
none  that  we  have  seen  could  do  any  thing  like  it ;"  then  tak- 
ing hold  of  his  coat,  he  asked  "  what  kind  of  animal  do  these 
skins  which  you  and  the  chiefs  wear  belong  to?  we  have  none 
such  in  our  country."  The  anchor  buttons  also  excited  their 
admiration.  At  length  we  managed  to  gain  their  attention,  and 
were  informed  that,  as  soon  as  the  wind  should  blow  strong 
from  the  land,  the  ice  might  be  expected  to  remove  from  the 
shore,  so  as  to  open  a  passage  for  boats,  and  that  it  would  re- 
main in  the  ofling  until  the  reappearance  of  the  stars.  "  Fur- 
ther to  the  westward,"  they  continued,  "  the  ice  often  adheres 
to  the  land  throughout  the  summer ;  and  when  it  does  break 
away,  it  is  carried  but  a  short  distance  to  seaward,  and  is 
brought  back  whenever  a  strong  wind  blows  on  the  coast.  If 
there  be  any  channels  in  these  parts,  they  are  unsafe  for  boats, 
as  the  ice  is  continually  tossing  about."  ".  We  wonder,  there- 
fore," they  said,  "  that  you  are  not  provided  with  sledges  and 
dogs,  as  our  men  are,  to  travel  along  the  land,  when  these  in- 
terruptions occur."    They  concluded  by  warning  us  not  to 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


109 


on  the  shore  On  f,,rVh!n  •  ^  ^  ?*^  ^^^'  ^"'l  Pack  the  ice 
usually  empioveS  Irin'  2?^  """  *'?'"^^  ^^^^'^is  party's 
seals,  in  the  Sty  ^tS  M^T''^  *°  "^'^!?'"g  ^^^^'^^  ^nd 
travel  to  the  ^SrAeyLf.t^T  '"^  ^'^^^  ^^^^^  '^^^^^ 
therefore,  not  much  distre.spH  Kv  7  fT  J°"™">^-  ^«  ^^re, 
posed  might  have  oriffinnS  •  ^  *«t«'»'gence  which  we  sup- 
frora  othfrs.     In  SenlnJ^/'^'f ''"^"'^  "^^°""t«  ^^^eive^d 

their  tents,and  two  of  th;"-^^^"*;'  '.'*"'"'*^  ^'*^  ^'^^'"  ^^ 
of  the  rock  from  Mountfc  ""^^l'^^^^^^  ^^tch  a  specimen 
nines.    The  fonow^nroh  1     '.^^"'"^  "^^^  ^''*^"*  about  twenty 

69»  r  24"  NTS^tTsToT^'w'^  "^*'j"^^  :-Latitude 
dip  82°  22'.  S'tude  137    35' W.;  variation  46°  41'  £. ; 

.«oh  a  heavy  swul"p„Xete,™af,t',"'«''''  "'"'=''  '™"g'" 
encampment  were  brolron  hJ?      1        ''"^"'  ">»««»  "ear  the 

%-  wa.  no  ch?4^T„\?e'.^ar™"^  "'""^  ">">• '»" 
ineJi^squimaux  revisited  us  Jn  fho  «,«    • 

ceived  any;  and  we  aflTrwLil  i!"^^^^^ 

seal-skin  boots,  a  flw  pYeceTof  d?^'i'''^'^'^'•^*  P^'"^  of 

deer-skin  cut  and  twisted  to  h/.T"*  '^^l''^'^^  and  some 

needles,  and  ornamSaiSclt:  w^remoTtt'    ^'^^^^^^^ 
women,  to  whom  the  tmn^V  JT?  '  •     ,,   1"°,^^  '"  request  by  the 

were  eager  to  gTt^^thfn/tZ?^'"^  ^'^T^'i^  ^^'  t^e^nen 
were  supplied  wi  h  hatS  fitt  •^^^^^'^e  of  iron.  They 
awls,  and  fishCks  Tfaf  I  'p'ri''  '^"''''  ^'^"^'^^'^  '"^'^^ 
knives,  but  as  each  was  in  nL  "^7-^  ^"'^'ous  to  procure 

which  we  had  for  another  P?'?''^"lone,  I  reserved  the  few 
these  knives  were  obtained  wiT  ^^'  ^""'^^^  ^^«^'^  ^^^^^ce 
of  the  narrative  It  1,'  -^PP?"  '"  ^  subsequent  part 
which  they  apph^d  IhZTfT  '"^"1?  .*°  '"^  ^^^^  P^^Poses  to 
of  the  men  d^anced  a^^^^^^^  T'^''  g'>"  *«  them^  some 
from  the  nose,  othlt  klfa^/j&t'  '"'  '^"^""^ 
the  women  immediately  decora W  thS  "^  f  ^e  part,  and 
rings,  thimbles,  or  whatever  t,?,^  ter  dressed  with  the  ear- 
was  in  the  party  a  great  pronorr..  ^^f/^^^'^ed.  There 
appeared  in  excellen?heahh  Lh     "  ""^  ^'^'''^  P'^'^ons,  who 

were  stout  and  robus    and  hill     .r^'^'^^''^  ^*^*'^^-  The  men 
o«^-  ^_  .1       •"  tuDusc,  and  taller  than  Aiiffn^tn"  r-  *»--     .i 

■==n  u„  .ne  east  coast  by  Captain  Parry.  °  Th^ir  iheZbrS 


'4 


110 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 

were  less  projecting  than  the  representations  given  of  the  Es- 
quimaux on  the  eastern  coast,  but  they  had  the  small  eye,  and 
broad  nose,  which  ever  distinguish  that  people.     Except  the 
young  persons,  the  whole  party  were  afflicted  with  sore  eyes, 
arising  from  exposure  to  the  glare  of  ice  and  snow,  and  two  of 
the  old  men  were  nearly  blind.     They  wore  the  hair  on  the 
upper  lip  and  chin ;  the  latter,  as  well  as  that  on  their  head, 
being  permitted  to  grow  long,  though  in  some  cases  a  circular 
spot  on  the  crown  of  the  head  was  cut  bare,  like  the  tonsure 
of  the  Roman  catholic  clergy.  Every  man  had  pieces  of  bone 
or  shells  thrust  through  the  septum  of  his  nose ;  and  holes 
were  pierced  on  each  side  of  the  under  lip,  in  which  were 
placed  circular  pieces  of  ivory,  with  a  large  blue  bead  in  the 
centre,  similar  to  those  represented  in  the  drawings  of  the 
natives  on  the  N.W.  coast  of  America,  in  Kotzebue's  Voyage. 
These  ornaments  were  so  much  valued,  that  they  declined 
selling  them  ;  and  when  not  rich  enough  to  procure  beads  or 
ivory,  stones  and  pieces  of  bone  were  substituted.  These  per- 
forations are  made  at  the  age  of  puberty;  and  one  of  the  par- 
ty, who  appeared  to  be  about  fourteen  years  old,  was  pointed 
out,  with  delight,  by  his  parents,  as  having  to  undergo  the 
operation  in  the  following  year.     He  was  a  good-looking  boy, 
and  we  could  not  fancy  his  countenance  would  be  much  im- 
proved by  the  insertion  of  the  bones  or  stones,  which  have  the 
effect  of  depressing  the  under  lip,  and  keeping  the  mouth  open. 
Their  dress  consisted  of  a  jacket  of  rein-deer  skin,  with  a 
skirt  behind  and  before,  and  a  small  hood  ;  breeches  of  the 
same  material,  and  boots  of  seal-skin.     Their  weapons  for  the 
chase  were  bows  and  arrows,  very  neatly  made ;  the  latter 
bemg  headed  with  bone  or  iron  ;  and  for  fishing,  spears  tipped 
with  bone.     They  also  catch  fish  with  nets  and  lines.     All 
were  armed  with  knives,  which  they  either  keep  in  their  hand, 
or  thrust  up  the  sleeve  of  their  shirt.   They  had  received  from 
the  Loucheux  Indians  some  account  of  the  destructive  effects 
of  guns.     The  dress  of  the  women  differed  from  that  of  the 
njen  only  m  their  wearing  wide  trowsers,  and  in  the  size  of 
their  hoods,  which  do  not  fit  close  to  the  head,  but  are  made 
large,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  their  children.     These  are 
ornamented  with  stripes  of  different  coloured  skins,  and  round 
the  top  IS  fastened  a  band  of  wolfs  hair,  made  to  stand  erect 
Their  own  black  hair  is  very  tastefully  turned  up  from  be- 
hind to  the  top  of  the  head,  and  tied  by  strings  of  white  and 
blue  beads,  or  cords  of  white  deer-skin.    It  is  divided  in  front, 
so  as  to  form  on  each  side  a  thick  tail,  to  which  are  appended 
sinngs  of  beads  that  reach  to  the  waist.     The  women  were 


July.J 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


men  were 


tZXtt  Toil  o?  the'  ''^^  '^"'.  *'r  ^"-*-  ^igh,  Z 
were  pr^ttv^  ^  ^""^  ^°""S^^  ^^^^les,  and  the  children, 

the'co":t';'fsrn"oAt  i'^  "f "'  '^^^^  "^*  ^'--^  this  part  of 
which  Li'eutenan  Sl  k  K?hnMh  °^"r^  "  ^^^^^^^^  «f  -"^ 
and  rein-deer.  We  learned  tlV/i*     T  'l''"""  '^"^^  ^^^^  «««1 
and  onl,  in  the  a«£nTand    kewise  tl? 2  "  ^^'''^'"  ^^ ' 
of  the  brown  bears    whirh  Jrr  f.  ^^^""^  ^''^  ^*^'')^  ^ew 

eastward  of  the  Copper  minpR   ^''"^"^"  ^):  ««w  on  the  coast 
few  white  whales  and  w^^  n^     ^'^  u^^  '^^^  ^'''e^dj  seen  a 
thispartofthe  coast  in  al  ""^^''«t°°<J  that  they  would  resort  to 
The  habfts  of  thesf  '  onl""'"^''''  ^'^1^  the  following  moon! 
to  those  of  the  tribes  dp.rrH  Tl^  T'^^'^ '"  ^^^'T  ^^spect, 
dialect  differed  so  m  le^^om  ^.?,,,^^  Captain  Parr^^/and  [heir* 
had  no  difficulty  in  undersrni      *f  ^"^  h  Augustus,  that  he 
able  to  give  them  f„n  n    r     ?  "^  ^^''"''    ^^  was,  therefore 
by  the  o?her  X  ateex?  '''fl'  *°  *^^  «"ack  niade 
at  their  treacLrou's  cldnTt  TtT'^  themselves  much  hurt 
said,  «  and  never  Z]  III     I       ^^°f  ^'"^  ^ad  men,"  they 
us,  when  we  meet     Thev  rV^  "^"'"'^  ""''^  "^'  ^'^  ^^eal  frorj 
ern  side  of  the  Mackenzie^  inT^^?2  V""^^  ^'^"^  ^he  east- 
them,  and  return  as  soon  I  ,S         *^^  ^'"'^  ^^^''^  :>'«"  ^aw 
guished  from  us,vvho  ive  to  fL  '  "'.°P'"/'  .  '^^^^^  ^''^  ^''^tin- 
nien  being  tato^d  acroslthe  face^'T"'^  '^'^^  T^'^  ^^^^ 
men  only  are  tattoed  "  h     -I:    ^""""^  our  tribes  the  wo- 

perpendicular  from  the  unnTn^r^'f  Z  '''\  ^'"^  ''"^s  drawn 
added,  "  If  you  ar^oblL"!  f  l'^  V^""  ^*^'"-  The  speaker 
people  remie,  we  w  11  t^'r"'"  ^^'^'^  ^^^'^  before  these 
be  in  the  vicin  ty,  InT  wiU  wlnfri''"'"*  "^  ^"""^  '"^"'  ^i» 
in  repelling  any  attack  '^   a    '"'"^''^  accompany  you  to  assist 

maux^oth'eirtUs     hhere  v'a^^^^^^^^^  ^'^^  Esqui. 

getting  forward,  though  the  irJl?  ^u^  P'^^'P^^^  of  our 

A  strong  breeze  from  h!        T  '  f  T^^^^bat  broken, 
bated,  wii  l!^l  swe  1  To  the'fur'^  'T^-  "^^  "'»^'t,  contri- 
front  of  the  encampment-  -/^k'  ^^'•"^^'^n  of  the  ice,  in      , 
the  nth  Hi«  ,«•  ^P?      '  ^"^  °"  the  morn  ng  of  »    *      - 

tossing  too  violSfor  h!\  /f^'^^'^'  th^"gb  they  were 
i»g  subsided  in  tKe  afternoon  ''  *°  r".'""^'  ^be  swell  hav! 
a  mile  anu  a  ha  t' were  force  J  ro'ir^'*^''^  'r^"'  ^*  ^'^^  ^"^^  °f 
fixed  to  the  shore-Tnd  asth^  •  f  ^^5'"'  '"*^*^''^*^^'"g 
and  was  driving  tl  elon,!         """^  'l*^  "^'^  ^^^^-^e  strong, 

unloaded  and  Sded   rKS^Fr^m  "if'  ^'^  '^^^^^  ^^^ 

uie  oeatn.    b  rom  the  summit  of  an 


113 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1836. 

adjoining  hill  we  perceived  an  unbroken  field  of  ice  to  the  west, 
and,  consequently,  a  barrier  to  our  progress. 

We  encamped  on  the  spot  which  our  Esquimaux  friends 
had  left  in  the  morning,  to  remove  in  their  oomiacks  and  kaij- 
acks  towards  the  Mackenzie,  where  they  could  set  their  fish- 
ing nets,  and  catch  whales  and  seals.  One  of  them  showed 
his  honesty,  by  returning  some  arrows,  and  a  piece  of  a  pem- 
mican  bag,  that  we  had  left  at  our  last  resting-place.  The  men 
also  joined  us  here  with  specimens  of  rock  from  Mount  Fitton. 

The  Esquimaux  winter  residences  at  this  spot  were  con- 
structed of  drift  timber,  with  the  roots  of  the  trees  upwards, 
and  contained  from  one  to  three  small  apartments,  beside  a 
cellar  for  their  stores.  There  were  generally  two  entrances, 
north  and  south,  so  low  as  to  make  it  necessary  to  crawl  through 
them.  The  only  aperture  was  a  hole  at  the  top  for  the  smoke, 
which,  as  well  as  the  doorways,  could  be  filled  up  with  a 
block  of  snow  at  pleasure.  When  covered  with  snow,  and 
with  lamps  of  fire  burning  within,  these  habitations  must  be 
extremely  warm,  though  to  our  ideas  rather  comfortless. 
Lofty  stages  were  erected  near  them  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
ceivmg  their  canoes,  and  bulky  articles.  A  north-east  gale 
came  on  in  the  evening,  and  rolled  such  a  heavy  surf  on  the 
beach,  that  twice,  during  the  night,  we  were  obliged  to  drag 
the  boats  and  cargoes  higher  up. 

Wednesday,  12th  ^^'^^^  *^'"^®  *^®  "^**  morning  a  heavy  rain 
commenced,  and  continued,  without  intermis- 
sion, through  the  day ;  at  which  we  were  delighted,  however 
comfortless  it  made  our  situation,  because  we  saw  the  ice 
gradually  loosening  from  the  land  under  its  efiects.  We  found 
the  keeping  a  tide-pole  fixed  in  the  loose  gravel  beach  imprac- 
ticable here,  as  well  as  at  the  last  resting-place,  on  account  of 
the  swell.  It  appeared  to  be  high  water  this  morning  at  half 
past  one  a.m.,  and  that  the  rise  of  tide  was  about  two  feet.  I 
need  nardly  observe  that  we  had  the  sun  constantly  above* the 
horizon,  were  it  not  for  the  purpose  of  mentioning  the  amusing 
mistakes  which  the  men  made  as  to  the  hour.  In  fact,  when 
not  employed,  a  question  as  to  the  time  of  day  never  failed  to 
puzzle  them,  except  about  midnight,  when  the  sun  was  near 
the  northern  horizon. 

Lieutenant  Back  missing  the  protractor  which  he  used  for 
laying  down  his  bearings  on  the  map,  Augustus  set  off  in  the 
ram  early  this  forenoon  to  recover  it  from  an  Esquimaux  wo- 
nian,  whom  he  had  seen  pick  it  up.  The  rain  ceased  in  the 
afternoon,  the  wind  gradually  abated,  and  by  eight  in  the  even- 
mg  it  was  calm.    A  south  wind  followed,  which  opened  a  pas- 


Jul^.J 


or  THE  I'OLAR  SEA. 


113 


n  was  near 


that  he  had  fakcn  h?s  Z      Z  u"  "''^'^'  ""'"i"?  ■"»"  found 

•nigh,  have  e:dt"vXf  t"o  v:re:,^:rhrr^  "^  ""'"«' 
the  po  nt  of  desoafrhmt,  '";™\"^om  him,  and  we  were  on 

-i/ed  at  fourS:!;;rnff fhe",^^^^^t;^  ^''"'  -»^-  ^^ 
fernrrn"^'  f^^^'-  of  thenS    '^^""'•a,,  t3th. 

recovered  the  protractor  tith  h'  't  ^T'^'"^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^^ 
ranee  of  its  utiJity  to  ^r*  H  ^'"^  '^^^^^  ''^P* '"  ^heir  igno- 
fish,and  some  sZimens  of^;t.?r^'?;^  ^^^  ^^ite 

mountains,  whicrwTrurchS  '  T  r  l'^''*' «t«"^«' ^rom  the 
for  their  kindness  in  L?  oil  '  f  ""^  ^"''^^^^  rewarded  them 

The  boats  we.V?mmedi7v"f  ^"^k  t^  *"''^*"''"  ^'^^e 
short  distance  frl  th^anf '^^1'?'^^'.?"'*  ^^^'"S  P""ed  a 
directed  to  the  outr  potin" Lw  tV^^^^^^  ^ 

the  coast.     We  passed  a  wide  tho,  ^h  n.?  }^  ''^^osxUes  of 
pomts  were  named  after  mvTiend,  r^  .  "^  c^PP  ^^^'  ^^ose 
King;  and  we  were  d  S  S^  .^^^^^^^      ^?^"?"  ^"^^  P-  P- 
compact  body  of  ice  wardi^rnv/J5    "^^^J^^J^ction,  when  a 
land  ahead.    At  the  slme  t  mP  «  H    '  "^r'"^  ^"'  J"'"^^  ^o  the 
fined  our  view  to  a  ?ew  ya  ds  It  w"?  ^'^  '""'^  •""'  ^^^^  ^«n- 
from  the  land,  and  hearyS  '  V^ZT'nTr''^  ^y  ^  g^'« 
round  the  point,  and  apDroachpHI  fhf  k  *'"  ^""P"^'  «^  g^^ing 
tion,  but  found  the  ce  so^cTospIv  n  *^^  ^T^  '"  ^^^^  4ecta? 
advance  nor  effect  a  landinT^^''^f'''?'^''°"'^  ^ 
ward,  and  turned  the  boat'  h;adTn  'fh  ^'^^f'"'  ?""^^  *«  ^^a- 
outer  border  of  the  ice      In  fhl    °.    f-  ^^^^^^''d,  to  trace  the 
to  great  danger  from  the  suddpn'^^'^"  ^"  ^^"-^  ^^Po^ed 
•vhich  raised  a  heavT«w^?i       ^  I    ''^^"g^  ""^  ^i^d  to    S  E 

ofice.ofas/et7trehrtt';7e:t^^^^^^^ 
have  injured  a  ship.     We  could  onhf^of  1  ^  '^^''^''  ^^a^d 
ses  of  the  land  through  the  fo^  ?n{      ^''^  occasional  glimp- 
anxious  suspense,  pulfng  t  and  o'^,,^?  '^^P^  in  the  mo^t 
masses  of  ice,  for  five  hours  bpfo-p        ^^'^^f  ^^^  ^^^^'^^S     ' 
shore.     We  linded  a  little    otho^  7  ? n'?  ^^^  "^«''  thf 
only  found  sufficient  space  for  the  ho^?^  °^  f"'"'  ^^b'^^'  and 
bank  and  the  water.  ^The  r2  ceaspd' r'""^  \"*'  ^^*^^^^»  the  -^ 
evenmg,  and  during  this  interval  wp  n.        ^^^7^  *'"^^  '"  ^^e 
the  bank,  that  the  who  Hoace  bp^    ''^'^' ^''^"^  ^^^  ^"P  of 
point,  as  well  as  the  chaTnefbTwhfHr'"."^  "?^  the  distant 
westward,  were  now  comp^etefy  btlpT  '^"l^^^^^^ed  to  the 
reason  to  congratulate  XS«     "^^^^  '^  ^^^^  ^^'«  '>ad  good 
in  safety.         ^  ourselves  on  having  reached  the  shore 

15 


Ill 


Si:«  U,M)  JOl  llNliV  TO  TIIK  SMORKS 


[ICJ6. 


^ 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Babbage  River-Meet  Natives  at  HerBchel  W^'J-Th^' J;j,'';j^^^^^^^ 
RuMi&ns  throuirh  the  Western  EBquimaux— Ascend  Mount  Lonybeare 

Brndrry  of  thf  B  itiBh  Dominions  on  this  Coast-Delayed  at  Icy  Reef 
-Barter^Island-Detention  at  Foggy  Island-Return  Reef-Linut  of 
outward  Voyage. 

Although  it  rained  heavily  during  the  night,  and  the  wind 
blew  strong  off  the  land  for  some  hours,  there  was  no  other 
change  in  the  state  of  the  ice  on  the  morning 
Friday,  14th.  ^^  ^^^  j^^j,,  than  that  the  smaller  pieces  were 
driven  a  short  way  from  the  beach.     The  day  was  foggy  and 
rainy,  but  the  evening  Bne.    The  bank  under  which  we  were 
encamped  is  of  the  same  earthy  kind  as  that  described  on  the 
9th,  but  rather  higher  and  steeper.    It  contains  much  wood 
coal,  similar  to  that  found  in  the  Mackenzie  R?vej-,  and  at  Gar- 
ry's Island.     The  beach  and  the  beds  of  the  rivulets  that  flow 
through  the  rav  \ies,  consist  of  coarse  gravel.     Specimens  of  its 
stones,  of  the  coal,  and  of  the  plants  in  flower,  were  added  to 
the  collection.     We  saw  two  marmots,  and  i wo  rein-deer, 
which  were  too  wary  to  allow  of  our  getting  withm  shot  ot 
them.     Between  noon  and  ten  p.m.  the  loose  >^^,^'^^  f  7;"S 
in  front  of  the  encampment  from  the  N.W.  to  S.E  ,  and  at  the 
latter  hour  it  stopped.     We  could  not  detect  any  d'^erence  in 
the  height  of  the  water,  and  there  was  a  calm  the  whole  time. 
Alight  breeze  from  S.E.  after  midnight,  brought  the  masses 
close  to  the  beach.  On  the  morning  of  the  1 5th, 
Saturday,  15th.    ^.^^\^^„  perceived  that  the  ice  was  loosened  from 
the  land  near  the  oufer  point,  to  which  1  have  given  the  name 
of  Kay,  after  some  much  esteemed  relatives,  we  embarked, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours  succeeded  m  reaching  it,  by 
passing  between  the  grounded  masses  of  ice.     On  landing  at 
Point  Kay,  we  observed  that  our  progress  must  ap"  be  stop- 
ped  by  a  compact  body  of  ice  that  was  fu.t  to  the  shore  of  a 
Seep  bay,  and  extended  to  our  utmost  view  seaward ;  and  that 
we  could  not  advance  farther  than  themoulh  of  a  river  which 
discharged  its  waters  just  round  the  pou.t.     1  he  boats  were 
therefore,  pulled  to  its  entrance,  and  we  encamped.     1*  ormer 
checks  had  taught  us  to  be  patient,  and  we,  therefore  commenc- 
ed such  employn.ents  as  would  best  serve  to  beguile  the  time, 
consoling  ourselves  wiin  the  au^ju  inat  <x  =i.on^  .......~~  


-«!■» 

m 


^4 


or  rm;  i'oi.ah  ska. 


II, 


Jul).J 

soon  spring  up  f.o.n  the  land  an<l  open  a  passage.     Astronomi- 

tt^tT'fT.T'^,  °u^^"'"^^*'  ^'^^^  '"^'P  ^''"^^  o"'  a»d  Lieu, 
tenant  Back  sketched  the  beautiful  scenery  allbrded  by  a  view 

of  the  Rocky  Mountan.s,  while  [  was  employed  in  collecting 
«pecHnens  o(  the  plants  in  flower.  The  men  amused  them? 
selves  in  various  ways,  and  Augustus  went  to  visit  an  Esoui- 
maux  family  that  were  on  an 'island  contiguous  to  ourT.. 
campment.  °  •"" 

We  now  discovered  that  the  Rocky  mountains  do  not  form 
a  continuous  chain,  but  that  they  run  in  detached  ranUsTt 
unequal  distances  from  the  coast.  The  Richardsmfha' 
commencing  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  t'mina 
within  vievv  of  our  present  situation.  Another  ran^c  which  I 
have  named  ,n  honour  of  Professor  Buckland,  bSns  Tn  tJ.e 
western  side  of  Phillips  Bay,  and  extending  to  the  boundarv  of 
our  view,  is  terminated  by  the  Conybcare  Mountalr        ^ 

Itgave  me  great  pleasure  to  affix  the  name  of  my  friend  Mr 
Babbage  to  the  river  we  had  discovered,  and  that  of  Mr  Phil' 
.ps,  Professor  of  Painting  at  the  RoyalAcademy,  to"^^ 
into  which  Its  waters  arc  emptied.  We  learned  fmm  the  Es 
qu.maux  that  this  river,  which  they  call  Cook-Stok  J; 
^ocky  River,  descends  from  a  very  distant  part  ofthefnterior 
though  they  are  unacquainted  with  its  course  beyond  the 
mountains.  t  appeared  to  us  to  flow  between  the  Spola  ad 
Barn  mountains  of  the  Richardson  chain.     There  are  manv 

tiotVJ  r''\  "''•'  *^"^°""^'  ^''  ^^^^-^  these  obsTr,"^ 
broad  Th''  appeared  deep,  and  to  be  about  two  Ss 
broad.  There  were  no  rocks  in  sitd,  or  large  stones  near  H?p 
encampment;  the  rolled  pebbles  on  the  bead,  were  landstoo 

W;tr'  'n^'^fi'"""  -'«-'^^'Sreenstone,andl tyl  mi^o^^^^^^ 
We  gathered  a  fine  specimen  of  tertiary  pitch-coal 

Augustus  returned  in  the  evening  with  a  youn-*Esauimanv 

The^had  now  quite  recovered  the  panic  into  which  they  had 
been  thrown  on  our  first  appearance,  which  was  L  Sned 
by  their  being  unable  to  escape  from  us  owinrjo  the  wanfof 
a  canoe.  We  made  them  happy  by  purchasing  th7f.l?K 
brought  and  giving  them  a  fev7prLL  s  they^ontitei^^ 
skip  and  laugh  as  long  as  thev  staid      ThI    ^  continued  to 

thatiudgin,  L.  theip'id'd?c:?otthe'^'c    irtKefcce"; 

Zii^J''  "/  ""^'"  T"  ^"P'^'^' '' ««  break  from  the  Ld  so  aj 
to  allow  of  our  reaching  Herschel  Island,  which  wasTnv^,^ 
but  he  represented  the  coast  to  the  westward  „f  Z  •  ?    a     ' 
being  low  and  so  generally  beset  wk^  cT  If  he  11',  of  -. "' 
mon  we  should  have  great  difficult"  i.^.;*"l,,„„t     T^ '- 


I 


116 


8F.C0ND  JOURNKY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


couple  had  been  left  here  to  collect  fish  for  the  use  of  their 
companions,  who  were  to  rejoin  them  for  the  purpose  ofkilhng 
whales,  as  soon  as  the  ice  should  break  up  ;  and  they  told  ub 
the  black  whales  would  soon  come  after  its  rupture  took  place. 
It  would  be  interesting  to  ascertain  where  the  whales  retire  in 
the  winter,  as  they  require  to  inhale  the  air  frequently.   Ihose 
of  the  white  kind  make  their  appearance  when  there  are  but 
small  spaces  of  open  water;  and  we  afterwards  saw  two  black 
whales  in  a  similar  situation.     One  might  almost  infer  Irom 
these  circum^  mces  that  they  do  not  remove  very  lar.     Is  it 
probable  that  they  go,  at  the  close  of  the  autumn,  to  a  warnrier 
climate  ?  or  can  the  sea  be  less  closely  covered  with  ice  in  the 
hieh  northern  latitudes  ?  The  situation  of  our  encampment  was 
observed  to  be,  latitude  69°  19'  N.;  longitude  138°  lOf  W.; 
variation  46°  16'  E.;  and  a  rise  and  fall  of  nine  inches  in  the 
water      The  wind  blew  from  the  west  during  the  night,  and 
drove  much  ice  near  the  boatj^ ;  but  as  the  masses  took  ground 
a  little  way  from  the  shore,  we  were  spared  the  trouble  ol  re- 
moving the  boats  higher  up  the  beach. 

We  were  favoured  in  the  forenoon  ot  the  ibtn 
Sunday,  16th.    ^  ^  strong  breeze  from  the  land,  which,  in  the 
course  of  a  few  hours,  drove  away  many  of  these  pieces  to- 
wards Point  Kay,  and  opened  a  passage  for  the  boats.     We 
immediately  embarked  to  sail  over  to  the  western  side  of 
Phillips  Bav,  concluding,  from  the  motion  of  the  ice,  that  it 
must  now  be  detached  from  that  shore.     On  reaching  it,  we 
had  the  pleasure  of  finding  an    open  channel  close  to  the 
beach,  although  the  entrance  was  barred  by  a  stream  of  ice 
lying  aground  on  a  reef.  The  boats  being  forced  by  poles  over 
this  obstruction,  we  stood  under  sail  along  the  coast  to  about 
five  miles  beyond  Point  Stokes;  but  there  we  were  again  com- 
pelled by  the  closeness  of  the  ice  to  stop,  and  from  the  top  o 
a  sand-hill  we  could  not  discover  any  water  in  the  direction  ot 
our  course.     The  tents  were  therefore  pitched,  and  the  boats 
uploaded,  and  hauled  on  the  beach.     Heavy  rain  can>"  on  in 
the  evening,  by  which  we  induliied  the  hope  that    mj  ice 
might  be  loosened.     We  were  encamped  on  a  lo" '    ■    ^     ' 
o-ravel  which  runs  along  the  base  of  a  chain  of  sana-nn.a  about 
Sue  hundred  and  fifty  iVrt  high,  and  forms  the  coast  line. 
The  bnnk  was  covered  with  drift  timber,  and  is  the  site  ol 
a   descit(Nl    Esquimaux    village.      The   snow   still    remain- 
ing   in    \he     nvines   was  tinged  with  light  red  spots.     Ihe 
niSit  V  -i     ilm.,   and  the  ice  remained  m  the  sam^  fixed 
siate   until   six  in    the  morniing   of  the    17tli, 
Monday,  iTtlt.   .^jj^j,^  pprreiving  the  pieces  in  the  offing  to  be 
in  motion  we  hiunchcd  tJie  bolits,  alid  by  breaking  our  way  at 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


117 


first  with  hatchets,  and  then  forcing  with  the  poles  through 
other  streams  of  ice,  we  contrived  to  reach  some  lanes  of  wa- 
ter, along  which  we  navigated  for  four  hours.  A  strong  breeze 
spnnging  up  from  seaward,  caused  the  ice  to  close  so  fast  upon 
the  boat,  that  we  were  obliged  to  put  again  to  the  shore,  and 
land  on  a  low  bank,  similar  to  that  on  which  we  had  rested  the 
night  before.  It  was  intersected,  however,  by  many  pools  and 
channels  of  water,  which  cut  off  our  communication  with  the 
land.     As  we  could  not  obtain,  from  our  present  station,  any 
satisfactory  view  of  the  state  of  the  ice  to  the  westward,  I  des- 
patched D  inc;m  and  Augustus  to  take  a  survey  of  it  from 
Foiut  Cattoii,  while  Lieutenant  Back  and  I  made  some  astro- 
nomical observations.    They  returned  after  an  absence  of  two 
hours,  u.id  reported  that  there  was  water  near  Herschel  Island 
'iiid  a  channel  m  the  offing  that  appeared  to  lead  to  it.  We 
therefore,  embarked ;  and  by  pushing  the  boats  between  the 
masses  that  lay  aground,  for  some  distance,  we  succeeded  in 
reachmg  open  water  at  the  enl«ance  of  the  strait  which  lies 
between  the  island  and  the  main,  and  through  which  the  loose 
pieces  of  ice  were  driving  fast  to  the  westward.     Having  now 
the  benefit  of  a  strong  favourable  breeze,  we  were  enabled  to 
keep  clear  of  them,  and  made  good  progress.     Arriving  oppo- 
site  the  S.E.  end  of  Herschel  Island,  we  perceived  a  large 
herd  of  rein-deer  just  taking  the  water,  and  on  approaching  the 
shore  to  get  within  shot,  discovered  three  Esquimaux  in  pur- 
suit.    These  men  stood  gazing  at  the  boats  for  some  minutes, 
and  after  a  short  consultation,  we  observed  them  to  change 
the  heads  of  their  arrows,  and  prepare  their  bows.     They 
then  walked  along  the  south  shore,  parallel  to  our  course,  for 
the  purpose,  as  we  soon  found,  of  rejoining  their  wives.     We 
reached  the  place  at  which  the  ladies  were  before  them,  and 
though  invited  to  land,  we  were  not  able,  on  account  of  the 
surf.     Augustus  was  desired  to  assure  them  of  our  friendship 
and  ol  our  intention  to  stop  at  the  first  sheltered  spot,  to  which 
they  and  their  husbands  might  come  to  receive  a  present 
More  t!(an  this  our  liittle  friend  could  not  be  prevailed  upon 
iO  communicate,  because  they  were  «  old  wives ;"  and  it  was 
evident  that  he  considered  any  further  conversation  with  wo- 
men  to  be  beneath  his  dignity.  On  passing  round  the  point  we 
discovered  that  the  ice  was  closely  packed  to  leeward,  and 
such  a  heavy  swell  setting  upon  it,  that  it  was  unsafe  to  pro- 
ceed.   We,  therefore,  encamped,  and  Augustus  set  off  imme- 
diately^to  introduce  himself  to  the  Esquimaux.     The  tents 
were  scarcely  pitched,  and  the  sentinels  placed,  before  he  re- 
turned, accompainied  by  twelve  men  and  women,  each  hrin"- 
mg  a  piece  of  dried  meat,  or  fish,  to  present  to  us.'  We  learned 


118 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[I82C. 


from  them  that  the  boats,  when  at  a  distance,  had  been  taken 
for  pieces  of  ice  ;  but  when  we  drew  near  enough  for  them  to 
distinguish  the  crews, and  they  p.^rceived  them  clothed  differ- 
ently  from  any  men  they  had  seen,  they  became  alarmed,  and 
made  ready  their  arrows,  as  we  had  observed.  On  receiving 
some  presents,  they  raised  a  loud  halloo,  which  brought  hve 
or  six  others  from  an  adjoining  island,  and  in  the  evenmg 
there  was  a  further  addition  to  the  party  of  some  young  men, 
who  had  been  hunting,  and  who  afterwards  sent  their  wives  to 
bring  us  a  p  .rt  of  the^poils  of  their  chase.  They  remained 
near  the  tents  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  and  testified  their 
delight  by  dancing  and  singing.  An  old  woman,  whose  hair  was 
silvered  by  age,  made  a  prominent  figure  in  these  exhibitions. 

The  information  we  obtained  from  them  confirmed  that 
which  we  had  received  from  the  last  party,  namely,  that  they 
procure  the  iron,  knives,  and  beads,  through  two  channels,  but 
principally  from  a  party  of  Esquimaux  who  reside  a  great  dis- 
tance to  the  westward,  and  to  meet  whom  they  send  their 
young  men  every  spring  with  furs,  seal-skins,  and  oil,  to  ex- 
change for  those  articles;  and  also  from  the  Indians,  who 
come  every  year  from  the  interior  to  trade  with  them  by  a 
river  that  was  directly  opposite  our  encampment;  which  I 
have,  therefore,  named  the  Mountain  Indian  River.  These 
Indians  leave  their  families  and  canoes  at  two  days'  march 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  the  men  come  alone,  bring- 
ing no  more  goods  than  they  intend  to  barter.  They  were  re- 
presented to  be  tall  stout  men,  clothed  in  deer-shins,  and 
speaking  a  language  very  dissimilar  to  their  own.  They  also 
said  that  the  Esquimaux  to  the  westward,  speak  a  dialect  so 
different  from  theirs,  that  at  the  first  opening  of  the  communi- 
cation, which  was  so  recent  as  to  be  within  the  memory  of  two 
of  our  present  companions,  they  had  great  difficulty  in  under- 
standing them.  Several  quarrels  took  place  at  their  first  meet- 
ings, in  consequence  of  the  western  party  attempting  to  steal ; 
but  latterly  there  has  been  a  good  understanding  between 
them,  and  the  exchanges  have  been  fairly  made. 

Our  visitors  did  not  know  from  what  people  either  the  In- 
dians or  the  Esquimaux  obtained  the  goods,  but  they  supposed 
from  some  "  Kabloonacht,"  (white  people,)  who  reside  far  to 
the  west.  As  the  articles  we  saw  were  not  of  British  manu- 
facture, and  were  very  unlike  those  sold  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  to  the  Indians,  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  they  are 
furnished  by  the  Russian  Fur  Traders,  who  receive  m  return 
for  them  all  the  furs  collected  on  this  northern  coast.  Part  of  the 


TTcnnitfMiiT  HurpllinE  on 


the  coast  east  of  the  Mackenzie.  The  western  Esquimaux  use 


[I82C. 

een  taken 
or  Ihem  to 
lied  differ- 
rmed,  and 
receiving 
ought  five 
e  evening 
oung  men, 
r  wives  to 
remained 
tified  their 
e  hair  was 
xhihitions. 
rmed  that 
,  that  they 
annels,  but 
L  great  dis- 
send  their 
oil,  to  ex- 
lians,  who 
them  by  a 
;  which  1 
ir.     These 
iys'  march 
one,  bring- 
y  were  re- 
shins,  and 
They  also 
dialect  so 
communi- 
lory  of  two 
y  in  under- 
first  meet- 
)g  to  steal ; 
;  between 

ler  the  In- 
y supposed 
3side  far  to 
tish  manu- 
dson's  Bay 
at  they  are 
;  in  return 
Part  of  the 
Iwplliner  on 
limaux  use 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


119 


July.] 

tobacco,  and  some  of  our  visitors  had  smoked  it,  but  thought 
the  flavour  very  disagreeable.  Until  I  was  aware  of  their  being 
acquainted  with  the  use  of  it,  I  prohibited  my  men  from  smot 
ing  m  their  presence,  and  afterwards  from  offering  their  pipes 
to  the  Esquimaux  at  any  time.    At  the  conclusion  of  this  con- 
ference, our  visitors  assured  us,  that  having  now  become  ac- 
quainted with  white  people,  and  being  conscious  that  the  trade 
with  them  would  be  beneficial,  they  would  gladly  encourage  a 
further  intercourse,  and  do  all  in  their  power  to  prevent  future 
visitors  from  having  such  reception  as  we  had  on  our  arrival 
in  these  seas.     We  learned  that  this  island,  which  has  been 
distinguished  by  the  name  of  Herschel,  is  much  frequented  by 
the  natives  at  this  season  of  the  year,  as  it  abounds  with  deer, 
and  Its  surrounding  waters  afford  plenty  offish.  It  is  composed 
ot  black  earth,  rises,  in  its  highest  point,  to  about  one  hundred 
Jeet,  and  at  the  time  of  our  visit  was  covered  with  verdure 
Ihe  strait  between  it  and  the  main  shore,  is  the  only  place 
that  we  had  seen,  since  quitting  the  Mackenzie,  in  which  a 
ship  could  find  shelter;  but  even  this  channel  is  much  inter- 
rupted by  shoals.  Latitude  69°  33^  N.;  longitude  139°  3'  W  • 
were  observed  at  the  encampment.  ' 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th  the  fog  was  so 
thick  that  we  could  not  see  beyond  the  beach,     '^^^^'^^y'  18th. 
It  dispersed  about  noon,  and  we  discovered  tliat  there  was  a 
channel  of  open  water  near  the  main  shore,  though  in  the  cen- 
tre  of  the  strait  the  ice  was  heavy,  and  driving  rapidly  to  the 
north-west.     We  embarked  at  once,  in  the  expectation  of  be- 
ing  able  to  penetrate  between  the  drift  ice  and  the  land  but 
the  attempt  was  frustrated  by  the  shallowness  of  the  water- 
and  the  fog  again  spreading  as  thick  as  before,  we  landed  on  a 
sand-bank.     We  were  soon  visited  by  another  party  of  the 
Esquimaux,  who  brought  deer's  meat  for  sale;  and  although 
the  whole  quantity  did  not  amount  to  a  deer,  we  had  to  pur- 
chase It  m  small  pieces.     This  practice  of  dividing  the  meat 
among  the  party,  we  found  to  prevail  throughout  the  voyage- 
and  they  avowed  as  their  reason  for  it,  the  desire  that  every 
one  might  obtain  a  share  of  the  good  things  we  distributed 
One  of  the  men  drew  on  the  sand  a  sketch  of  the  coast  to  the 
westward,  as  far  as  he  was  acquainted  with  it ;  from  which  it 
appeared  that  there  was  a  line  of  reefs  in  front  of  the  coast 
the  who  e  way ;  the  water  being  deep  on  the  outside  of  them, 
but  on  the  inside  too  shallow  even  for  their  oomiacks  to  float. 
We  subsequently  found  that  his  knowledge  of  the  coast  did 
noj^extend  beyond  a  few  days'  march. 

ccoming  more  clear  about  two  p.m.,  we 


>+«» — I — ,_ 


120 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


I 


again  embarked,  and  endeavoured  to  get  to  se^ard.     The 
bSats,  however,  soon  grounded ;  and  finding  all  our  attempts 
to  push  through  any  of  the  channels  between  the  reefs  inef- 
fectual, we  pulled  back  close  to  Herschel  Island.     Following, 
then  the  course  of  the  drift  ice,  we  passed  near  to  its  south- 
west  point,  which  was  found  to  be  the  only  deep  passage 
througli  the  strait.    We  afterwards  entered  into  a  fine  sheet  of 
open  water,  the  main  body  of  the  ice  being  about  half  a  mile 
to  seaward,  and  only  a  few  bergs  lying  aground  in  the  direc- 
tion of  our  course.     The  outey  parts  of  the  island  appeared 
closely  beset  with  it.     At  ihe'end  of  fiv#  miles  we  discerned 
another  large  party  of  Esquimaux,  encamped  on  a  reef;  they 
waved  their  jackets  as  signals  for  us  to  land,  which  we  de- 
cUned  doing,  as  we  perceived  the  water  to  be  shallow  between 
us  and  them.     They  ran  along  the  beach  as  for  as  the  end  of 
the  reef,  tempting  us  by  holding  up  meat.     Only  two  ot  the 
arty  were  provided  with  canoes,  and  they  followed  us  to  a 
uluff  point  of  the  main  shore,  on  which  we  landed.     These 
proved  to  be  persons  whom  we  had  seen  at  Herschel  Island, 
and  who  had  visited  the  Esquimaux  in  this  quarter  on  purpose 
to  make  them  acquainted  with  our  arrival.     We  were  happy 
to  learn  from  them  that  we  should  not  see  any  more  of  their 
countrymen  for  some  time,  because,  while  surrounded  by  them, 
the  necessity  of  closely  watching  their  motions,  prevented  us 
from  paying  due  attention  to  other  objects.     Resuming  our 
voyage,  we  pulled  along  the  outer  border  of  a  gravel  reef, 
about  two  hundred  yards  broad,  that  runs  parallel  to,  and  about 
half  a  mile  from,  the  coast,  having  a  Hne  of  drift  ice  on  the  out- 
side of  us.     The  wind  being  contrary,  and  the  evening  cold, 
temperature  40°,  we  encamped  on  the  reef  at  eight  p.m.,  where 
we  found  plenty  of  drift  timber;  the  water  was  brackish.  The 
distance  travelled  this  day  was  eight  miles  and  a  half.     The 
main  shore  opposite  the  encampment  was  low  to  a  great  dis- 
tance from  the  coast;  it  then  appeared  to  ascend  gradually  to 
the  base  of  the  Buckland  chain  of  mountains. 

The  following  morning  being  calm,  and  very 
Wednesday,  19th.  fi„e,the  boats  were  launched  at  three  a.m.,  and 
we  set  off  in  high  spirits ;  but  after  pulling  three  miles,  we 
perceived  the  channel  of  open  water  becoming  narrow,  and 
the  pieces  of  ice  heavier  than  any  we  had  before  seen,  some 
of  them  being  aground  in  three  fathoms  water.  At  six  a.m., 
after  having  gone  five  miles  and  a  half,  we  were  stopped  by 
the  ice  which  adhered  to  the  reef,  and  was  unbroken  to  sea- 
ward. Imagining  we  saw  water  at  some  distance  beyond  this 
barrier    we  ■wero  induced  to  dras  the  bosJts  across  the  reef. 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


121 


Julj.] 

reachinrll  '^ThJ  "*'  the  channel  on  the  inside,  in  the  hope  of 
reaching  it  Th  s  proved  to  be  a  bay,  at  the  head  of  which 
jve  arnved  ma  short  time.  It  was  then  discovered  that  a  fo^ 
hangmg  over  the  ice  had  been  mistaken  for  water  The  boS? 
were,  therefore,  reconvened  across  the  reef,  the  t;nts  pitched 
and  we  had  to  draw  largely  on  our  nearly  exhausted  Kk  of 

fey  S"'  Therd^r^'^*.^'  ''''  '^^^^^  ^'^^  of  thts  cfm'pac 
icy  neld.     A  herd  of  rem-deer  appeared  very  opportunelv  to 

of  ttXlT  °^"i'"*'  ^"^  "^^^''^  '^^  "^"  we?eTspa7heS 
on  the  chase,  but  cmiy  one  was  successful.    The  following  ob- 

/Qol7w'^''^-^>*^'"^^'-Latitude  69°  36'  N.    iZftu^^^^ 

139°  42'  W. ;  variation  46°  1 3'  E.   Being  now  abreast  of  lount 

Conybeare,  Lieutenant  Back  and  I  were  on  the  point  of  set 

ting  out  to  visit  its  summit,  when  we  were  stoppe^d  by  a  very 

dense  fog  that  accompanied  a  fresh  breeze  fr^om  the  N  W^ 

enTAn^l{  ""-'"^  '""•     ^\'  ^'^'^'^  continued  badfm^ii 
ten  the  following  mormng;  the  ice  near  the 

beach  was  broken  into  smaller  pieces,  but  as     Thursday,  20th. 

Jracki^hfn 'fvJfn/'n?''.h'^  ^"T  P^^^^^^ing.     The  water  being 
Drackish  m  front  of  the  reef,  we  despatched  two  men  to  brini 

h'ave  ttrsam^  f 'f  'J  ^  't""''  '''"^^'^  ^^'^^  v"as  found  o' 
have  the  same  taste;  from  this  circumstance,  as  well  as  from 

nfer'"  hat  the"!"''"'  ^'^^^T  "^  ^'^  ^^^^  *»^^  coaslone  ma™ 

The  i  e  b  Sken  off  f'''?'"^  ^'^^^^  ""'''  **^'^  ^^^  «hore^ 
ine  ice  broken  off  from  large  masses,  and  permitted  to  drain 

before  it  was  nrieked,  did  not  furnish  us  with  beTte  water  A 
couple  of  pin-tailed  ducks  were  shot,  the  only  pairTeen  tht 
black  kmd  were  more  numerous,  but  ^ere  not^fi?ed  at!as  'they 
are  fishing  ducks,  and,  therefore,  not  good  to  eat.  We  also 
saw  a  few  geese  and  swans.  ''ve  also 

in7of'theT«?''r7'lK'^"'''"^  P""^"'^">^  ^'^^'•' «» *he  morn, 
ing  01  the  21st;  and  as  there  was  not  any  change 

m  the  position  of  the  ice,  I  visited  Mount  Cony-  ^"*^^y'  21st. 
beare,  accompanied  by  Duncan  and  Stewart.  Though  its  dis- 
tance was  not  more  than  twelve  miles  from  the  coa  Z 
journey  proved  to  be  very  fatiguing,  owing  to  the  swampiness 
of  the  ground  between  the  mountain  and  the  sea.  We  had 
also  the  discomfort  of  being  tormented  the  whole  way  by  mv^ 
rivfr  l™';^^ J^^«-     The  plain  was  intersected  by  a^windTiL 

W^rn  "i  Y^  r't  ^''^^^'  ^'^'^^  ^e  forded,  and  on  tt 
western  side  found  a  thicket  of  willows,  none  of  which  were 

hkh  Tletl  'rr"-^--^^'  -d  only  five  or  six  to 
nign.  At  the  toot  of  the  mountain  were  three  parallel  nlat- 
forms,  or  terraces,  whose  heights  we  estini.t.d  'S  41.^ 
ana  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet;  composed  of^t^ansiiion  slat,' 

16 


I 


139 


'  -'-^i 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THK  SHORES 


[1826. 


the  stone  of  the  lowest  being  of  the  closest  texturdl  We  found 
the  task  of  climbing  above  the  upper  terraces  difficult,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  looseness  of  the  stones,  which  did  not  afford 
a  llirm  footing,  but  after  an  hour's  labour,  we  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  top.     The  mountain  is  also  composed  of  slate, 
but  so  much  weathered  near  the  summit,  as  to  appear  a  mere 
collection  of  stones.    Its  height  above  the  sea  we  estimated  at 
eight  hundred  feet.     Two  or  three  hardy  plants  were  in 
flower,  at  the  highest  elevation,  which  we  gathered,  though 
they  were  of  the  same  kind  th«yt  had  been  collected  in  the  lower 
lands ;  and  during  the  whole  inarch  we  di8  not  meet  with  any 
plant  different  from  the  specimens  we  had  already  obtained. 
On  arriving  at  the  top  of  the  mountain,  we  were  refreshed  by 
a  strong  south  wind,  which  we  fondly  hoped  might  reach  to 
the  coast,  and  be  of  service,  by  driving  the  ice  from  the  land. 
This  hope,  however,  lasted  only  a  few  minutes;  for,  on  casting 
our  eyes  to  seaward,  there  appeared  no  open  water  into  which 
it  could  be  moved,  except  near  Herschel  Island.     The  view 
into  the  interior  possessed  the  charm  of  novelty,  and  attracted 
particular  regard.     We  commanded  a  prospect  over  three 
ranges  of  mountains,  lying  parallel  to  the  Buckland  chain,  but 
of  less  altitude.     The  view  was  bounded  by  a  fourth  range  of 
high-peaked  mountains,  for  the  most  part  covered  with  snow. 
This  distant  range  was  afterwards  distinguished  by  the  name 
of  the  Bncish  Chain ;  and  the  mountains  at  its  extremities 
were  named  in  honour  of  the  then  Chancellor  of  the  Exche- 
quer, and  President  of  the  Board  of  Trade — the  Right  Ho- 
nourable Mr.  Robinson,  now  Lord  Goderich,  and  Mr.  Huskis- 
son.  Whe   seen  from  the  coast,  the  mountains  of  the  Buckl&nd 
chain  appeared  to  form  a  continuous  line,  extending  from  N. 
W.  by  N.,  to  S.E.  by  S. ;  but  from  our  present  situation  we 
discovered  that  they  were  seperated  from  each  other  by  a  deep 
valley,  and  a  rivulet,  and  that  their  longest  direction  was  N.N. 
E.  and  S.S.W.    The  same  order  prevailed  in  the  three  ranges 
behind  the  Buckland  chain  ;  and  the  highest  of  their  mountains, 
like  Mount  Conybeare,  were  round  and  naked  at  the  top;  the 
vallies  between  them  were  grassy.  We  erected  a  pile  of  stones 
of  sufficient  height  to  be  seen  from  the  sea,  and  deposited  un- 
derneath it  a  note,  containing  the  latitude,  longitude,  and  some 
particulars  relative  to  the  Expedition. 

The  22nd  was  a  calm  sultry  day,  the  temper- 
Saturday,  22nd.  ^^^^^  varying  between  58°  and  63°,  and  we 

were  tormented  by  musquitoes.    The  ice  remained  very  close 
to  the  beach.     Impatient  of  our  long  detention,  we  gladly 


-1 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


123 


July.] 

availed  ourselves,  at  three  in  the  morning  of  the 

23rd,  of  a  small  opening  in  the  ice,  to  launch  the    ^""'^■y'  23rd. 

boats,  and  push  them  forward  as  far  as  we  could  get  them. 

We  thus  succeeded  m  reaching  a  lane  of  water,  through  which 

we  made  tolerable  progress,  though  after  two  hours  and  a 

Halt  of  exertion,  we  were  gradually  hemmed  in,  and  forced 

again  to  encamp  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  westward  of 

Sir  Pulteney  Malcolm  River.     We  had,  however,  the  satis- 

Jaction  of  finding,  by  the  observations,  that  we  had  gained  ten 

A^o'%  ^^^'^r^^^  ?*•  36'  N. ;  Icytigitude  140°  12'  W.;  variation 

,       r     ^  ..®  temperature  of  the  water  at  the  surface  a 

quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore  was  40°,  that  of  the  air  being 

Seach  "  '''^'  ^'^'^  ^''^^''"'  ^^^^'  ten  yards  from  the 

nf  Ti!"^  K°^f  *  ^T  "^^^  ,^^°"*  ^^^^^"  ^^^t  '^'gJ' ;  and  from  the  top 
01  the  bank  a  level  plam  extended  to  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains,  which,  though  very  swampy,  was  covered  with  verdure. 
At  this  place  we  first  found  boulder  stones,  which  were  deeply 
seated  m  the  gravel  of  the  beach.     They  consisted  of  green- 
stone, sandstone,  and  limestone;  the  first  mentioned  being  the 
largest,  and  the  last  the  most  numerous.    Having  seen  several 
fash  leaping  m  the  river,  a  net  was  set  across  its  mouth,  though 
without  success,  owing  to  the  meshes  being  too  large.     Two 
men  were  despatched  to  examine  the  state  of  the  ici;  and  on 
the.r  return  from  a  walk  of  several  miles,  they  reported  that 
wi  h  the  exception  of  a  small  spot  close  to  the  beach  it  was 
quite  compact.  They  had  observ'ed,  about  two  miles  f/o^Th: 
encampment,  stumps  of  drift  wood  fixed  in  the  ground  at  cer! 
taiad.sances,  extending  from  the  coast  across  the  plain  to- 
wards  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  direction  of  two  piles  of 
stones,  which  vyere  erected  on  the  top  of  the  latter.  We  were 
at  a  loss  to  conjecture  what  motive  the  Esquimaux  could  have 
had  for  taking  so  much  trouble,  unless  these  posts  were  in! 
IpmKi   ,    .'T^  ^'  ^^'^^'  ^^'^  ^^^  rein-deer.     The  party  as- 
FTcte  etrrsldaT"  '"  ^'^  ^^^"'"^'  ^'  ^^^  »>'-  - 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  we  were  able  to 
make  a  further  advance  of  two  miles  and  three     M°n^ay,24th. 
quarters  by  forcing  the  boats  between  the  masses  of  ice,  as  far 
as  the  debouche  of  another  rivulet,  in  latitude  69°  36*'  N 

fuLfHTfl  ^'^V^^'  ^-  ^'"^^'-  «"y  other  circumsLce 
^an  that  of  being  beset  by  ice,  the  beautifully  calm  and  clear 
weather  we  then  had  would  have  been  deliitful  but  as  our 
hope  of  being  released  rested  solely  on  a  stron' wink  1  nl'er 
.casea  lo  ioiig  ior  ,ts  occurrence.  A  breeze  would  have  "been! 


I-. 


»H 


124 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


■|r>i^'; 


at  any  rate,  beneficial  in  driving  away  the  musquitoes,  which 

were  so  numerous  as  to  prevent  any  enjoyment  of  the  open 

air,  and  to  keep  us  confined  to  a  tent  filled  with  smoke,  the 

only  remedy  against  their  annoyance. 

We  were  still  detained  the  two  following 
Tuesday,  25th.     ^^^,^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^^^j^  ^^\^^^  ^^  g^^^  ^gpg  ^  grey 

wolf,  some  seals,  and  some  ducks.     More  tedious  hours  than 
those  passed  by  us  in  the  present  situation,  cannot  well  be 
imagined.     After  the  astronomical  observations  had  been  ob- 
tained  and  worked,  the  survey  brought  up,  a  sketch  made  of 
the  encampment,  and  specimens  of  the  plants  and  stones  in 
the  vicinity  collected,  there  was,  literally,  nothing  to  do.    The 
anxiety  which  was  inseparable  from  such  an  enterprize  as  ours, 
at  such  an  advanced  period  of  the  season,  left  but  little  dispo- 
sition to  read,  even  if  there  had  been  a  greater  choice  of  books 
in  our  travelling  library,  and  still  less  composure  to  invent 
amusement.     Even  had  the  musquitoes  been  less  tormenting, 
the  swampiness  of  the  ground,  in  which  we  sank  ancle  deep 
at  every  step,  deprived  us  of  the  pleasui  ?  of  walking.    A  visit 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains  was  often  talked  of,  but  they  were 
now  at  a  distance  of  two  days'  journey,  and  we  dared  not  to 
be  absent  (torn  the  boats  so  long,  lest  the  ice,  in  its  fickle 
movements,  should  open  for  a  short  time.     Notwithstanding 
the  closeness  of  the  ice,  we  perceived  a  regular  rise  and  fall 
of  the  water,  though  it  amounted  only  to  seven  inches,  except 
on  the  night  of  the  24th,  when  the  rise  was  two  feet;  but  the 
direction  of  the  flood  was  not  yet  ascertained.     We  found  a 
greater  proportion  of  birch-wood,  mixed  with  the  drift  timber 
to  the  westward  of  the  Babbage  than  wc  had  done  before ;  be- 
tween the  Mackenzie  and  that  river  it  had  been  so  scarce,  that 
we  had  to  draw  upon  our  store  of  bark  to  light  the  fires.  Some 
lunar  observations  were  obtained  in  the  afternoon  of  the  25th, 
and  their  results  assured  us  that  the  chronometers  were  going 
Bteadily.  At  midnight  we  were  visited  by  a  strong  S.W.  breeze, 
accompanied  by  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning.     This  weather 
was  succeeded  by  calm,  and  a  fog  that  continued  throughout  the 
next  day,  and  confined  our  view  to  a  few  yards.  Temperature 
from  41°  to  43°.     On  the  atmosphere  becoming  clear  about 
xju  A     A      9Rtu      *^'"6  ^"  ^^^  evening  of  the  26th,  we  discover- 
ed  a  lane  ot  water,  and  immediately  embark- 
ing, we  pulled,  for  an  hour,  without  experiencing  much  inter- 
ruption from  the  ice.     A  fresh  breeze  then  sprung  up  from  the 
N.W.,  which  brought  with  it  a  very  dense  fog,  and  likewise 
caused  the  ice  to  close  so  fast  upon  us,  that  we  were  compel- 
led to  hasten  to  the  shore.    We  had  iust  landed,  when  the 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


)35 


channel  was  completely  closed.  We  encamped  on  the  vvestern 
side  of  a  nver  about  two  hundred  yards  broad!"  hie  ha  the 
request  of  Lieutenant  Back,  was  nmed  after  M,  Backhouse 
one  of  the  under  Secretaries  of  Stale  for  Foreign  Affairs  It 
appeared  that  the  water  that  flowed  from  this  channe*  had 
caused  the  opemog  by  which  we  had  travelled  from  ou  K 
restmg-place;  for  beyond  it,  the  ice  was  closely  paclked 

Some  heavy  ram  fell  in  the  night,  and  td  ^ 
mormng  of  the  27th  was  foggy  ;  but  the  sun,  Thursday,  27th. 
about  noon,  having  dispersed  t>fe  fog,  we  discovered  an  OD*»n 
channel  about  half  a  mile  from  the  sh^re.     No  Ume  was  los^t  in 

Ld  brLV  ^"'''  '"*"  't     ^y  ^•^"^^•"g  it«  course  tMhe  end 

hril?  ?&  ''"'"  r^  .*'^''°"S^  ^^"'e  streams  of  ice,  we  were 

^h^t  In '    f^^  '!!^  °i''^:^*  "^''^^'  to  the  mouth  of  a  w^e  river 
that  flows  from  the  British  range  of  mountain.      Th;c  K  ^ 

the  most  westerly  river  in  the  Irit^hrmSs  on^'th     coast^ 

Russia'"  Jtm^d^Mh'^r^^^'""  '^*^^^^"  «-^*  Britain  and 

ness   h'e  r  orTH     ^'^a?"''"'!'^';'?  ^^^^^'^  ^^  ^'''  R«3'al  High- 
ness  the  Lord  High  Admiral.     Under  a  pile  of  drift  timber 

which  we  erected  on  the  mostelevated  pokit  of  he  coas  ^ear 
^8  mouth,  was  deposited  a  tin  box,  containing  a  royal  ilver 
medal,  with  an  account  of  the  proceedings  of  the  Exped  ion  • 
and  the  union  flag  was  hoisted  under  thrL  hear'y  cheer  Z' 
only  salute  that  we  could  afford.  This  ceremonv  did  no;  Jl 
am  us  longer  than  half  an  hour;  when  weZltdTnto  a" 

me  montn.     1  his  circumstance,  together  with  the  annparano^ 
of  several  seals,  and  the  water  becoming  more  salt  Seated  a 

temperature  of  the  air  from  ^7°  tn  4*;o      t-i  'dujoms,  and  the 

ednL  the  beach  by  li^rofVhe'ssrh/so  I'To'rd'^""^  "P^"- 
mit  the  boats,  we  embarked,  to  try  if  we  could  not  ^''^"y^  28th. 
advance  by  thrusting  the  masses  aside  with  poles  Aft.r 
spending  several  hours  in  this  labour,  Ld  gaiintonlv  two 
mi  es,  further  exertion  became  ineffectual,  oW  We  ke 

tety'SirK  '  '"'  "^;^  %{  ^^^  P'--  frfm  fifteen  o 
tlTe  remove .  if^'  ^'?^  f^'^T^*     ^^  ^^d'  however,  gained  by 

timhTLI^^H:^!:  }^^^.  ^^'\  encampment.    Among  the  drift 
'  ;^  "^"  '"'^^  ^  Fne  tree,  seven  feet  and  a  quarter 


m 


136 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


in  girth,  by  thirty-six  long.  We  had  previously  seen  several, 
little  inferior  in  size.  The  temperature  this  day  varied  from 
39°  to  48°.  We  had  observed,  for  the  preceding  fortnight, 
that  the  musquitoes  assailed  us  as  soon  as  the  temperature  rose 
to  46°,  and  that  they  retired  quickly  on  its  descending  below 
that  height. 

The  morning  of  the  29th  opened  with  heavy 
Saturday,  29th.    ^^-^^  ^^^  ^^^g.  ^^^  precursors  of  a  strong  gale 

from  E.N.E.,  which  brought  back  the  ice  we  had  already  pass- 
ed, and  closely  packed  it  along  the  beach,  but  we  could  not 
perceive  that  the  wind  had  the  slightest  efiect  on  the  main 
body  at  a  distance  from  the  shore.  This  was  a  very  cold, 
comfortless  day,  the  temperature  between  38°  and  42°.  On 
the  following  morning  a  brilliant  sun  contributed 
Sunday,  30th.  ^^j^j^  ^j^^  ^^j^  ^^  ^^^  dispersion  of  the  mist  which 

had,  for  some  days  past,  overhung  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
we  had  the  gratification  of  seeing,  for  the  first  time,  the  whole 
length  of  the  British  Chain  of  Mountains,  which  are  more 
peaked  and  irregular  in  their  outline,  and  more  picturesque 
than  those  of  the  Buckland  Range.  The  following  observa- 
tions were  obtained  here:— Latitude  69°  38'  N.;  longitude 
140°  51'  W. ;  variation  45°  43' E. ;  Dip  83°  27'.  In  exploring 
the  bed  of  a  rivulet  we  found  several  pieces  of  quartz,  con- 
taining pyrites  of  a  very  bright  colour,  which  so  much  attract- 
ed the  attention  of  the  crews,  that  they  spent  several  hours  in 
^examining  every  stone,  expecting  to  have  their  labour  re- 
warded by  the  discovery  of  some  precious  metal. 

The  gale  having  abated  in  the  evening,  we  quickly  loaded 
the  boats,  and  pulled  them  into  a  lane  of  water  that  we  had 
observed  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  This,  however, 
extended  only  a  short  way  to  the  west,  and  at  the  end  of  a 
mile  and  a  half  inclined  towards  the  beach,  the  ice  beyond  it 
being  closely  packed.  Before  the  boats  could  be  brought  to 
the  land,  they  received  several  heavy  blows  in  passing  through 
narrow  channels,  and  over  tongues  of  grounded  ice.  1  walked 
to  the  extreme  point  that  we  had  in  view  from  the  tent,  and 
was  rejoiced  by  the  sight  of  a  large  space  of  water  in  the  di- 
rection of  our  course;  but  up  to  the  point  the  ice  was  still 
compact,  and  heavy.  On  my  way  1  passed  another  Esquimaux 
village,  where  there  were  marks  of  recent  visitors. 

We  witnessed  the  setting  of  the  sun  at  eleven  p.m.  ;  an  un- 
welcome sight,  which  the  gloomy  weather  had,  till  then,  spared 
us ;  for  it  forced  upon  our  minds  the  conviction  that  the  fa- 
vourable season  for  our  operations  was  ia&t  passing  away, 


or  THE  POLAK  SEi. 


127 


Joly.J 

though  we  had,  as  yet,  made  so  little  proercss     Thi,  -».  n-* 

t^jf/  Sfrt?'!  ''--""•■>«  tf:rttteJdedr.w 


,1:^."?.^  severaKshowers  of  rain  during^he         '' "" 

in  the  morn-  J^o"day,  sist. 


bv  the  F,  '"'""'•     ^''''  iP"""  ■'^™»  '<"  be  much  resorted    o 

/1l«a  1/^    Stages.     Un  the  latter  were  deposited  several  bun 
dies  of  seal  and  deer  skins,  and  several  pair  of  snovv- hoes" 
The  snow-shoes  were  netted   with  rord,  ^r  J  snovy-slioes. 
were  shaped  hke  those  usjty  7hf  I„'d  a„s  nea'rThrMren- 

wass  n^a  chS„7V/„t.S\Tr;lT:^LtJtS 
mo-  ,«K«r,  r       -s-  °  "°'  happen  before  ten  n  the  evpn 

1  hough  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  Au^^ust  com- 
menced  with  a  he.vy  gale  from  E.N.eS  ve^y      ^"--^  ^«t. 
roggy  weather,  w«  »rorPP^*.(i  f«  fu.  „:V    "  ^^•'^  ,  „ ,. 


138 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1836. 


M 


dragging  the  boats  over  the  flats,  under  the  supposition  thai  our 
best  chance  of  getting  forward  would  be  bypassing  on  the  out- 
side of  it.  But  there  finding  heavy  ice  lying  aground,  and  so 
closely  packed  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  putting  the 
boats  into  the  water,  it  was  determined  to  examine  the  chan- 
nel by  walking  along  the  shore  of  the  reef.  An  outlet  to  the 
sea  was  discovered,  but  the  channel  was  so  flat  that  gulls  were, 
in  most  parts,  wading  across;  and  there  was,  therefore,  no 
other  course  than  to  await  the  separation  of  the  ice  from  the 
reef.  On  the  dispersion  of  the  fog  in  the  afternoon,  we  per- 
ceived that  some  of  the  masses  of  ice  were  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  high ;  and  we  derived  little  comfort  from  beholding, 
from  the  top  of  one  of  them,  an  unbroken  surface  of  ice  to 

The  gale  blew  without  the  least  abatement 
Wednesday,  2nd,  throughout  the  night,  and  until  noon  of  the 
2nd,  when  it  terminated  in  a  violent  gust,  which  overthrew  the 
tents.  The  field  of  ice  was  broken  in  the  offing,  and  the 
pieces  put  in  motion ;  and  in  the  evening  there  appeared  a 
large  space  of  open  water,  but  we  could  not  take  advantage 
of  these  favourable  circumstances,  in  consequence  of  the  ice 
still  closely  besetting  the  reef.  We  remarked  large  heaps 
of  gravel,  fifteen  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  reef,  on  the 
largest  iceberg,  which  must  have  been  caused  by  the  pressure 
of  the  ice ;  and  from  the  top  of  this  berg  we  had  the  satisfac- 
tion  of  discovering  that  a  large  herd  of  rein-deer  were  march- 
ing in  line  towards  the  opposite  side  of  the  channel.  Our 
party  was  instantly  on  the  alert,  and  the  best  hunters  were  sent 
in  the  Reliance  in  chase  of  them.  The  boat  grounded  about 
midway  across,  and  the  eager  sportsmen  jumped  overboard 
and  hastened  to  the  shore ;  but  such  was  their  want  of  skill, 
that  only  three  fawns  were  killed,  out  of  a  herd  of  three  or 
four  hundred.  The  supply,  however,  was  sufficient  for  our 
present  use,  and  the  circumstances  of  the  chase  afforded 
amusing  conversation  for  the  evening.  The  astronomical  ob- 
servations place  our  encampment  in  latitude  69°  43'  N.;  longi- 
tude 141°  30'  W.    The  temperature  this  day  varied  from  40° 

to  42°. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3rd  a  strong  breeze  set 
Thursday,  3rd.  j^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^  which  we  were  rejoiced  to  find 

caused  a  higher  flood  in  the  channel  than  we  had  yet  seen, 
and  the  hope  of  effecting  a  passage  by  its  course  was  revived; 
as  the  ice  was  still  fast  to  the  reef,  and  likely  to  continue  so, 
it  was  considered  better  to  occupy  ourselves  in  dragging  the 

I A-  i-i u  lU-  ~.. 4    4U«vv  *-^  r>op4'in>i'>  Irtnflfor  m  +hio  irkanmP 

UUaUS   llil'UUl^d  IIIC  ISiUU,  man  tv/  ^-viilnlT.!-^   f-:»j,-»    -■' 


[18S6. 

on  that  our 
on  the  out- 
ind,  and  so 
putting  the 
the  chan- 
itlet  to  the 
gulls  were, 
erefore,  no 
:e  from  the 
)n,  we  per- 
i  twenty  to 
I  beholding, 
e  of  ice  to 

abatement 
lOon  of  the 
erthrew  the 
ig,  and  the 
appeared  a 
e  advantage 
:  of  the  ice 
large  heaps 
eef,  on  the 
;he  pressure 
the  satisfac- 
vere  march- 
mnel.  Our 
rs  were  sent 
inded  about 
1  overboard 
ant  of  skill, 

of  three  or 
ient  for  our 
ise  afforded 
)nomical  ob- 
13'  N.;  longi- 
ied  from  40" 

g  breeze  set 
oiced  to  find 
ad  yet  seen, 
vas  revived; 
continue  so, 
dragging  the 

thic  irlfsnme 


OP  THE  rOLAR  SKA. 


139 


August.] 

spot,  where  the  wood  was  already  scarce,  and  the  water  indif- 
ferent.    The  boats,  therefore,  proceeded  with  four  men  in 
each,  while  the  rest  of  the  crew  walked  along  the  shore,  and 
rendered  assistance  wherever  it  was  necessary,  to  drag  them 
over  the  shallow  parts.    After  four  hours'  labour,  we  reached 
the  eastern  part  of  the  bay,  which  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of 
nammg  after  my  friend  Captain  Beaufort,  R.  N.,  and  which 
was  then  covered  with  ice.     We  had  also  the  happiness  of 
hnding  a  channel  that  led  to  seaward,  which  enabled  us  to  get 
on  the  outside  of  the  reef;  but  as  we  pushed  as  close  as  we 
could  to  the  border  of  the  packed  ice,  our  situation,  for  the 
next  tour  hours,  was  attended  with  no  little  anxiety.     The  ap- 
pearance of  the  clouds  bespoke  the  return  of  fog,  and  we  were 
sailing  with  a  strong  breeze  through  narrow  channels,  between 
heavy  pieces  of  drift  ice,  on  the  outside  of  a  chain  of  reefs  that 
stretched  across  Beaufort  Bay,  which  we  know  could  not  he 
approached  within  a  mile,  owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the 
water. 

Beyond  Point  Humphrys,  the  water  being  deep  close  to  the 
coast,  we  travelled  in  more  security,  though  the  ice  was  less 
open  than  before.  We  halted  to  sup  on  a  gravel  reef  that  ex- 
tends from  the  main  shore  to  Point  Griffin,  having  run  twen- 
ty-eight miles,  the  greatest  distance  we  had  made  on  one  day 
since  our  departure  from  the  Mackenzie. 

A  black  whale,  and  several  seals,  having  been  seen  just  be- 
fore we  landed,  the  water  now  decidedly  salt,  and  the  ice  driv- 
ing with  great  rapidity  to  the  westward,  were  circumstances 
that  we  hailed  with  heartfelt  joy;  as  affording  the  prospect  of 
getting  speedily  forward,  and  in  the  evening  we  lost  sight  of 
Mount  Conybeare,  which  had  been  visible  since  the  9th  of 
July.  There  were  several  huts  on  the  reef,  and  one  large 
tent,  capable  of  holding  forty  persons,  which  appeared  to  have 
been  lately  occupied,  besides  eighteen  sledges,  that  we  sup- 
posed to  have  been  left  by  the  men  who  had  gone  from  Hers- 
chel  Island,  to  exchange  their  furs  with  the  western  Esqui- 
maux. Among  the  baggage  we  found  a  spoon,  made  out  of  the 
nriusk  ox  horn,  like  those  used  by  the  Canadian  voyagers.  At 
SIX  this  evening  wc  passed  the  termination  of  the  British  chain 
of  Mountains-  and  had  now  arrived  opposite  the  commence- 
ment of  another  range,  which  I  named  after  the  late  Count 
Komanzoff;  Chancellor  of  the  Russian  Empire,  as  a  tribute  of 
respect  to  the  memory  of  that  distinguished  patron  and  pro- 
moter of  discovery  and  science. 

^  Having  taken-^e  precaution  of  supplying  ourselves  with 
ircsn  water,  we  quitted  the  reef,  to  proceed  on  our  vovayc  im- 

17  '   ^ 


ma 


m^ 


ISO 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


der  sail,  but  shortly  afterwards  arrived  at  very  heavy  ice,  ap- 
parently packed.  We  found,  however,  a  narrow  passage,  and 
by  forcing  the  boats  through  it,  reached  a  more  open  channel, 
where  the  oars  could  be  used.  This  extended  along  a  reef, 
so  that  we  could  pursue  our  course  with  safety,  being  ready  to 
land  in  the  event  of  the  ice  drifting  upon  us.  The 
Friday,  4ti.  ^^^  ^^^  ^j^j^  evening  at  half  past  ten  r.M.;  and  the 

temperature  of  the  air  during  its  disappearance  was  38°.  Be- 
tween the  reefs  and  the  low  main  land  the  water  was  entirely 
free  from  ice.  After  passing  Point  Sir  Henry  Martin,  we  were 
tempted,  by  the  appearance  of  a  bay,  to  steer  within  the  reefs, 
as  we  could  then  use  the  sails,  and  make  a  more  direct  course 
than  by  winding  among  the  ice.  The  water  proved  so  shallow 
that  the  boats  took  the  ground,  at  the  distance  of  three  miles 
from  the  shore,  which  caused  us  to  alter  our  plan,  and  follow 
the  line  of  drift  ice  near  the  border  of  the  pack.  The  breeze 
died  away;  and  in  proceeding  under  oars  beyond  Point 
Manning,  we  descried  a  collection  of  tents  planted  on  a  low 
island,  with  many  oomiacks  kaiyacks,  and  dogs  around  them. 
The  Esquimaux  being  fast  asleep,  Augustus  was  desired  to 
hail  them,  and  after  two  or  three  loud  calls,  a  female  appeared 
in  a  state  of  nudity ;  after  a  few  seconds  she  called  out  to  her 
husband,  who  awoke  at  the  first  sound  of  her  voice,  and  shout- 
ing out  that  strangers  were  close  at  hand,  the  whole  space  be- 
tween the  tents  and  the  water  was,  in  a  few  minutes,  covered 
with  armed,  though  naked,  people.  Their  consternation  on 
being  thus  suddenly  roused  by  strangers,  of  whose  existence 
they  had  never  heard,  can  be  better  imagined  than  described. 
We  drew  near  the  shore,  to  let  Augustus  inform  them  who  we 
were,  and  of  the  purpose  of  our  visit,  which  produced  a  burst 
of  acclamation,  and  an  immediate  invitation  to  land.  This  we 
declined  doing,  having  counted  fifty-four  grown  persons,  and 
knowing  that  we  had  not  the  means  of  furnishing  such  a  num- 
ber with  the  articles  they  might  crave.  Besides,  it  was  evi- 
dent, from  their  hurried  manner,  that  they  were  in  a  state  of 
high  excitement,  and  might  then,  perhaps,  have  been  disposed 
to  seize  upon  every  thing  within  their  grasp.  Four  of  the  kaiy- 
acks being  launched,  after  we  had  receded  to  a  proper  distance 
from  the  island,  we  allowed  them  to  come  alongside ;  and  pre- 
sents were  given  to  the  men.  We  then  learned  that  these 
were  the  people  who  had  conveyed  the  furs,  &c.,  from  Hers- 
chel  Island,  and  that  the  exchange  with  the  Esquimaux  had 
been  made  at  the  place  where  (hey  were  encamped,  only  a 
few  days  before.  They  intended  to  commence  their  return 
this  dav  to  Ilerschol  Island,  wlicrn  tho  iron  and  hf?jh  wovM 


[1826. 

vy  ice,  ap- 
esagc,  and 
n  chiinnel, 
ng  a  reef, 
ig  ready  to 

us.  The 
.;  and  the 
38°.  Be- 
as  entirely 
I,  we  were 
» the  reefs, 
ect  course 
so  shallow 
hrec  miles 
and  follow 
^'he  breeze 
ond  Point 
I  on  a  low 
mnd  them, 
desired  to 
i  appeared 
out  to  her 
and  shout- 
;  space  be- 
is,  covered 
rnation  on 

existence 
described. 
m  who  we 
:ed  a  burst 
.  This  we 
arsons,  and 
ich  a  num- 
it  was  evi- 
1  a  slate  of 
n  disposed 
•f  the  kaiy- 
?r  distance 
;  and  prc- 
that  these 
from  Hers- 
imaux  had 
)ed,  only  a 
leir  return 
>adfi  wo'.'.H 


August.] 


O*'  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


131 


be  distributed  among  their  relations,  according  to  the  furs  &c 
thoy  had  supplied.    The  Esquimaux  saluted  us  at  parting  'v^th 
maiw  vociferations  of  te^ma,  and  we  continued  ont  iourney 
for  hve  miles ;  at  the  end  of  which,  the  wind  setting  in  strongly 
ajamst  us,  we  landed  at  the  western  part  of  Barter  Island,  tJ 
refresh  the  crew.     We  then  found  tfiat  a  rapid  tide  was  run- 
ning to  the  eastward,  and  at  eleven  the  water  had  risen  one  foot 
from  the  time  of  our  landing.  The  tents  were  scarcely  pitched 
before  we  saw  two  kaiyacks  coming  towards  us  from  the  west- 
*Ton  '  ^   •     !  ?^"  '"  i*"^  headmost  accepted,  without  hesita- 
Uon  our  mvitation  to  land.     His  companion  was  asleep,  and 
his  canoe  was  driving  with  the  winJ^  and  tide;   but  when 
awaked  by  the  voice  of  Augustus,  he  also  came.     These  were 
young  men  returning  from  hunting  to  the  tents  that  we  had 
passed  ;  and  being  much  fatigued,  they  made  but  a  short  stay. 
1  he  only  mformation  collected  from  them  was,  that  the  coait 
before  "a  ^yas  similar  to  that  along  which  we  had  been  travel- 

-rnh^^iS  i  ^^^.""^  '''^'  '"''''''^"  ^'■"'^  ^^^  «»^'^''e.  The  latitude 
70  5  N  ;  longitude  143°  53'  W.;  variation  45°  36'  E  •  were 
observed.  ' 

As  soon  as  the  latitude  had  been  obtained,  wc  embarked 
favoured  by  wind  and  tide,  to  cross  the  bay,  which  has  been 
named  in  honour  of  the  Marquess  Camden.     The  water  was 
ot  a  seagreen  colour,  perfectly  salt,  and  from  three  to  five  fa- 
aT^  ^u^ '  !^^  temperature  35°  at  the  surface,  that  of  the  air, 
ttv.       f  .u  ^  iT^'  very  clear,  and  exposed  to  our  view  the 
outlme  of  the  Romanzoff  chain  of  Mountains,  whose  lofty 
peaks  were  covered  with  snow.     At  the  end  of  ten  miles  we 
observed  four  tents  planted  on  a  reef,  and  several  women 
standing  about  them,  who  made  many  signs  for  us  to  land,  but 
,^  the  surf  was  rolling  too  heavily  on  the  beach.     As  we  pro- 
ceeded,  their  husbands  were  perceived  on  the  main  shore,  in 
pursuit  of  a  large  herd  of  rein-deer,  which  they  seemed  to  be 
surrounding  so  as  to  drive  the  deer  into  the  water,  where  they 
would  probably  spear  them  to  more  advantage. 

Continuing  along  the  shore  beyond  the  reef  at  the  distance 
ot  two  miles  from  the  land,  the  boats  touched  the  ground  se- 
veral  limes,  which  made  us  conclude  we  were  steering  into  a 
bay  though  its  outline  could  not  be  seen.  The  wind  changed 
at  the  time  to  the  north,  blew  strong,  and  raised  a  heavy  swell, 
which  induced  us  to  haul  out  to  seaward,  and  we  soon  after- 
wards  discovered  an  island,  which  we  just  reached  under  sail 
InTl  '"T'*  we  perceived  a  chain  of  low  reefs,  extending 
vh^h  fK"°'*-^'f^  f  °?/  ^^  '"^"'•^^  ™"^«  t«  the  westward,  on 

which  the  wind  wae  thpn  blo'vm >J  L_:_-!.       1  ,,       '.  t" 

„  j_  .Mv  J5  fj!o,^  inj^,  uHu  uiiijgmg  down  the  drift 


ii  .^i 


132 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


ice.  We  were,  therefore,  compelled  to  halt,  and  await  more 
moderate  weather.  This  island,  like  the  projecting  points  of 
the  main  shore,  is  a  mere  deposit  of  earthly  mud,  covered  with 
verdure,  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  high.  There  was 
another  island  adjoining,  which  sefimed  to  be  a  collection  of 
boulder  stones;  from  whence  it  was  named. 

The  ice  appeared  closely  packed  to  the  seaward ;  nearer  to 
the  island  were  icebergs  aground,  and  within  these,  streams  of 
loose  pieces  driving  towards  the  reefs.  In  the  hurry  of  em- 
barkation from  Barter  Island,  one  of  the  crew  of  the  Reliance 
left  his  gun  and  ammunition,  which  we  regretted  the  more, 
from  being  apprehensive  that  an  accident  might  happen  to  the 
natives.  The  circumstance  was  not  known  before  the  boats 
were  a  great  distance  from  the  island,  or  we  should  have  put 
back  to  have  recovered  it. 

A  very  thick  fog  came  on  in  the  evening.  This  weather, 
however,  did  not  prevent  our  receiving  a  visit  from  two  of  the 
natives  about  midnight,  who  told  Augustus  that,  having  scented 
the  smoke  of  a  fire  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  they  had 
come  to  ascertain  who  had  made  it.  They  were  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  and  advanced  towards  the  tent  without  any 
alarm.  We  found  that  they  had  been  hunting,  with  several 
other  men,  at  the  foot  of  the  Romanzoff  Mountains,  and  that 
they  were  now  going  to  rejoin  their  friends  at  Barter  Island, 
with  the  fruits  of  a  successful  chase.  Their  knowledge  of  the 
coast  terminated  at  this  place,  which  is  as  far  to  the  westward 
as  any  of  the  party  from  Herschel  Island  travel. 

The  western  Esquimaux  had  parted  from  Ihem  seven  nights 
before,  but  they  supposed  that  they  had  not  made  much  pro- 
gress, as  their  oomiacks  were  heavily  laden.  Those  people 
had  informed  them  that  the  coast  to  the  westward  was  low, 
and  fronted  by  reefs,  like  that  we  had  already  passed ;  the  wa- 
ter also  was  very  shallow ;  they  therefore  recommended  that 
we  should  keep  on  the  outside  of  every  reef.  Our  visiters  had 
no  sooner  received  their  presents  than  they  raised  a  loud  cry, 
which  was  intended  to  bring  their  friends.  On  the  dispersion 
of  the  fog  at  the  time,  we  discovered  an  oomiack,  filled  with 
people  paddling,  and  some  other  men  wading  towards  us.  It 
being  calm,  and  the  swell  having  abated,  we  did  not  wait  for 
their  arrival,  but  embarked  at  one  in  the  morning 
Saturday,  5th.  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  pursued  our  course  to  the  west- 
ward, keeping  on  the  outside  of  the  reefs.  The  water,  how- 
ever, was  very  shallow,  even  at  the  distance  of  two  miles,  and 
we  were  much  teased  bv  tlic  boats  repeatedly  touchinp;  the 


August] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


133 


ate  Mr  Canning  where  we  found  the  water  perfectly  fresh 

Thi  1    A       '  *r    ? .  ^^^  <^"*  *o  seaward  into  deep  water 
nnf      ^7u'  r^"^"  ^'^^^"^  fr«"^  «"r  view  by  the  haz?  thoueh 

mn.7  n.!^  f!  *1      ^^  ^^'°S  aground;  but  at  the  eiid  of  three 

of  ke  ^liT[he 'tiS>^'"^'  ^^.*^^  ^"^^"g  ^f  *he  loose  pieces 
Ik.      l?u     ?^  *  ,®  ^^^  running  strongly  to  the  eastward 

^dot  untSTn^r  '^'  ^H  ^^.^"S'  -'^  *^^*  ^t  -ntrnu^d' 
was  falHnr  Tf  ?K  *^'\"™°f '"g'  during  which  time  the  water 

before  one^;  m  TW^^t  "'  *?'  ""^  ^^^  ^^^^^  *•*>««  o^^  foot 
oeiore  one  p.m.     This  observation  wou  d  indicate  the  AnnA  tr^ 

come  from  the  eastward,  though  contrarrto  what  was  re^ 
be"t  wifh  ?r"*"  ^'''"'  ?^  l^y  ^^^^^^ '  ^"*  ^"  -  sea  so  c  ose?; 
thTt!dTcoiM\?oS^^  ''""^^^^"^  ^^  ^^  *^^  ^'-^^  '' 

.JJ'^.^'l-^y  Mountains  eith  r  terminated  abreast  of  our  pre- 
sent  situa  ion,  or  receded  so  far  to  the  southward  as  to  be  im 
perceptible  from  the  coast  a  few  miles  beyonTthis  reef    The" 

at  onriJTf '*  t^T^  ^^u**^^  «°«^  *^^-'  wVembarLd 
^n^  "  ^if     '  *"*  ^^'l?^  *^^  ''^^ts  through  the  narrow  channels 

we  «niVT"!K  ^  *^"  ^""^^  reached  Point  Brownlow,  Xere 
JnnAu^^'  ^?i  *A^  P"'P^^^  °f  ascertaining  whether  the  ice 
could  be  avoided  by  passing  into  the  bay  that  then  opened  to 
our  view,  trending  to  the  south.  We  perceived  Siat^hisbay 
was  in  every  part  flat,  and  strewed  with  stones ;  and  that  the 
only  prospect  of  getting  forward  was  by  entering  the  ice  aeain 
and  pushing  to  an  island  about  two  miles  fortheVto  the  west' 
which  we  reached  after  receiving  several  heavy  blo^  n 
passing  through  the  loose  ice  at  the%ntrance  oTZ  IZ  he- 

'zz'^ter^tj^t^' '''  ''^"''  '-'^'^  ''^  p*-™ 

The  view  from  the  south-east  part  of  the  island  led  us  at 

S  the  Zund  nn^n'"''''"^  the  attempt,  the  boati  repeatedly 

nor?h  s  dfoflh:^  P--.g'  ''^"- 

f.^^r,  ,  isiana.    At  the  end  of  a  mile  in  that  dirpr 

^irZlTl.tFl^llV'?"  '^"  ""'?«   ..nbroken  from'Tho 

.  ___  -.„,.,..^.  j.av.Kcd  lu  seaward,     bnicc  the  day  after 


134 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


our  departure  from  the  Mackenzie,  when  we  first  came  to  the 
ice,  we  had  not  witnessed  a  more  unfavourable  prospect  than 
that  before  us.  No  water  was  to  be  seen,  either  from  the 
tents,  or  from  the  different  jpoints  of  the  island  which  we  visit- 
ed, for  the  purpose  of  examining  into  the  state  of  the  ice.  We 
were  now  scantily  supplied  with  fuel ;  the  drift  timber  being 
covered  by  the  ice  high  up  the  bank,  except  just  where  the 
boat  had  landed. 

In  the  evening  a  gale  came  on  from  the  east,  and  blew 
throughout  the  following  day:  we  vainly  hoped  this  would 
produce  some  favourable  change  ;  and  the  water  froze  in  the 
kettle  on  the  night  of  the  5th.  The  position  of  the  encamp- 
ment was  ascertained  by  observation  to  be,  latitude  70°  11' 
N. ;  longitude  145°  50'  W. ;  variation  42°  66'  E.; 
Sunday,  6th.  ^^  ^^^^  notwithstanding  the  obstructions  we  had 
met,  an  advance  of  two  degrees  of  longitude  had  been  made 
in  the  two  preceding  days.  .. 

This  island  received  the  name  of  Flaxman,  in  honour  of  the 
late  eminent  sculptor.  It  is  about  four  miles  long  and  two 
broad,  and  rises,  at  its  highest  elevation,  about  fifty  feet.  In 
one  of  the  ravines,  where  a  portion  of  the  bank  had  been  car- 
ried away  by  the  disruption  of  the  ice,  we  perceived  that  the 
stratum  of  loose  earth  was  not  more  than  eighteen  inches  thick, 
the  lower  bed  being  frozen  mud;  yet  this  small  quantity  of 
soilj  though  very  swampy,  nourished  grasses,  several  of  the 
arctic  plants,  and  some  few  willows,  that  were  about  three 
inches  high.  Several  boulder  stones  were  scattered  on  its 
beach,  and  also  in  the  channel  that  separates  it  from  the  main 

shore. 

An  easterly  wind  gave  place  to  a  calm  on  the 
Monday,  7th.  j^Q^ning  of  the  7th:  and  as  this  change,  though  it 
produced  no  effect  in  loosening  the  ice  to  the  north,  caused 
more  water  to  flow  into  the  channel  between  the  island  and 
the  main,  we  succeeded  with  little  difficulty  in  crossing  the 
flats  that  had  before  impeded  us.  Beyond  this  bar  the  water 
gradually  deepened  to  three  fathoms ;  and  a  favourable  breeze 
springing  up,  we  set  the  sail,  and  steered  for  the  outer  point  of 
land  in  sight.  We  continued  in  smooth  water  until  we  reach- 
ed Point  Thompson,  when,  having  lost  the  shelter  of  the  ice 
which  was  aground  on  a  tongue  of  gravel  projecting  from 
Flaxman  Island,  we  became  exposed  to  an  unpleasant  swell. 

The  Lion  was  very  leaky,  in  consequence  of  the  blows  she 
had  received  from  the  ice ;  but  as  we  could  keep  her  free  by 
baling,  we  did  not  lose  the  favourable  moment  by  stopping  to 


[1826. 

me  to  the 
pact  than 
from  the 

1  we  visit- 

2  ice.  We 
her  being 
vhere  the 

and  blew 
his  would 
oze  in  the 
e  encamp- 
le  70°  11' 
2*66'E.; 
IS  we  had 
)een  made 

lOur  of  the  \ 
y  and  two 
■f  feet.  In 
been  car- 
id  that  the 
ches  thick, 
[quantity  of 
iral  of  the 
bout  three 
red  on  its 
1  the  main 

Btlm  on  the 
,  though  it 
■th,  caused 
island  and 
rossing  the 
the  water 
ble  breeze 
er  point  of 
we  reach- 
of  the  ice 
:ting  from 
int  swell, 
blows  she 
ler  free  by 
itopping  to 


August.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


135 


repair  her   Our  course  was  continued  past  Point  BuUen  nntU 

cot  her  afloaf  nn?K  ?kT     .    ^^^  exertions  of  the  crew  soon 

fsbnd      ThA^n        *^  ?u^*'  ^^'^  P""^^  t«  windward  of  the 

mp  in.         f  ?  "^^'^  *^^"  ^^t'  but  as  the  wind  had  by  this 

proachable  part  of  the  coast,  and  we  effeS  aTnHin.  off^" 

vfrdlt^  '""l  ?r*^'  '^  ^^^^^'"g  part  ofl^'cargo  two  hLdr^^^^ 
yards  through  the  water.  The  main  shore  to  the  westward  of 
Flaxman  Island  ,s  so  low  that  it  is  not  visible  at  7hedTstance 

wbL^Toori^e^nJ^r  ^^^^^^^^"  ''  *^-  -^"  »^~^ 
The  carpenter  had  finished  the  repairs  of  the  boat  by  mid 
inght^  and  vye  were  prepared  to  go  forward,  but  were  prevent 

out  rnrhV"^  ^/A  T^  '^''^  ^'S'  ^^'^h  ^-"tinued  tCugh 
ou  the  night,  and  till  eleven  on  the  morning  of  the  ^ 

A  u  .  .  ^*^™  continued  violent  throughout  the  '^"^^day'  8th. 
day  but  the  fog  cleared  away  for  the  space  of  two  hours  and 
enabled  us  to  perceive  that  the  ice,  which  in  the  preSdin^ 
cven,„g  h  d  been  at  a  considerable  distance  f  om  \helt7 
was  now  tossing  about,  in  large  masses,  close  to  the  border  of 
the  shallow  water.  We  were  also  enabled,  during  the  interval 

lttir7S"l6%r  N^i"'  ^.{-^—-1  obseVv^atTo;: 
tion43M^^^^  N.;  longitude  147°  38' W.;  and  varia' 

The  hunters  were  sent  out  in  pursuit  of  some  deer  that  werr 
seen,  and  Augustus  killed  one.     They  ascertained  durL  the 

snore  Dy  a  channel,  fordable  at  low  water.     At  this  entamn 


r 


<■  \' 


equally  regular  tide  was  ob 


served 


^1 


136 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 

on  the  8  th,  but  we  could  not  ascertain  the  direction  of  the 

flood.  After  sunset  the  squalls  became  extremely  violent ;  and 

until  three  in  the  afternoon  of  the  9th,  the  fog 

Wednesday,  9th.      ^^g  ^^  ^^^^^  ^j^g^j  ^y^^y  object  more  distant 

than  forty  yards,  was  hidden.  After  that  period,  a  partial 
clearness  of  the  atmosphere  discovered  to  us  the  waves  more 
high  than  the  day  before,  and  beating  heavily  against  the  wea- 
ther beach  of  the  island.  We  rejoiced,  however,  at  seeing  a 
large  stream  of  ice  to  windward,  supposing  that  its  presence 
there  would  cause  the  swell  to  go  down,  and  that  we  should 
be  able  to  proceed  as  soon  as  the  wind  should  fall.  We  em- 
ployed ourselves  in  observing  the  dip  with  Meyer's  and  the 
common  needles,  as  well  as  the  magnetic  force.  The  mean 
dip  was  82°  26'.  The  temperature  of  the  air  this  day  varied 
from  38°  to  45°.  High  water  took  place  at  fifteen  minutes 
after  three  p.m.,  the  rise  being  two  feet.  The  water  did  not 
fall  so  low  as  yesterday,  owing  to  the  wind  blowing  more  across 
the  mouth  of  the  bay. 

On  the  10th,  the  continuance  of  the  gale,  and 
Thursday,  10th.  ^^  ^j^^  ^^^  ^^^^  opaque,  if  possible,  than  before, 

and  more  wet,  were  not  only  productive  of  irksome  detention, 
but  they  prevented  us  from  taking  exercise;  our  walks  being 
confined  to  a  space  between  the  marks  which  the  Esquimaux 
had  put  up  on  two  projecting  points,  whither  we  went  at  every 
glimpse  of  clearness,  to  examine  into  the  state  of  the  waves. 
We  witnessed  with  regret,  in  these  short  rambles,  the  havoc 
which  this  dreary  weather  made  amongst  the  flowers.  Many 
that  had  been  blooming  on  our  arrival,  were  now  lying  pros- 
trate and  withered.  These  symptoms  of  decay  could  not  fail 
painfully  to  remind  us  that  the  term  of  our  operations  was  fast 
approaching;  and  often,  at  this  time,  did  every  one  express  a 
wish  that  we  had  some  decked  vessel,  in  which  the  provision 
could  be  secured  from  the  injury  of  salt  water,  f>.nd  the  crew 
sheltered  when  they  required  rest,  that  we  might  quit  this 
shallow  coast,  and  steer  at  once  towards  Icy  Cape.  We 
designated  this  dreary  place  by  the  name  of  Foggy  Island. 
As  an  instance  of  the  illusion  occasioned  by  the  fog,  1  may 
mention  that  our  hunters  sallied  forth,  on  more  than  one  oc- 
casion, to  fire  at  what  they  supposed  to  be  deer,  on  the  bank 
about  one  hundred  yards  from  the  tents,  which,  to  their  sur- 
prise, took  vvin<5,  and  proved  to  be  cranes  and  geese. 

The  wind  changed  from  east  to  west  in  the  course  of  the 

night,  and  at  eight  in  the  morning  of  the  I  Ith,  the 

Friday,  11th.   ^^^  dispersed  sulficiently  to  allow  of  our  seeing  a 


more  across 


August.]  OF  THE  POLAR  SEA.  137 

point  bearing  N.W.  by  W.,  about  three  miles  and  a  half  dis- 
tan  ,  which  we  supposed  to  be  an  island.     W^  therefore 
hastened  to  embark;  but  before  the  boats  could  be  draKged  so 

Th  ^''°'"  i^K  '^''^  *^^*  ^^'y  ^^"'d  fl^at,  the  fog  refurned 
The  wind,  however,  being  light,  we  resoWed  to  proceed  and 
steer  by  compass  to  the  land  that  had  been  seen.^  Soon  after 
qu.tt.ng  the  beach  we  met  with  shoals,  which  forced  us  to  aker 
the  course  more  to  the  north;  and  having  made  the  d  stance 
wh^h'w  ^?,^«*'"^^ted  the  point  to  be,Ld  being  ignorant 
which  way  the  coast  trended  beyond  it,  we  rested  for  some 
time  upon  the  oars,  m  the  hope  that  the  fog  would  clear  aw^v 

bu? in^'/a.V'all  '"''  '^  ""''^  "^  *«  «^^p'  our  course  an^w^^ 
Dut  in  vain ;  all  our  movements  in  the  bay  being  impeded  bv 

r  oggy  island.    Scarcely  had  the  men  made  a  fire  to  drv  their 
t!hl'  '^';:^^^^r^  thoroughly  wet  from  wading  over  the 

On  this  occasion  we  arrived  abreast  of  the  point  whilS  the 
weather  continued  clear,  but  found  a  reef,  ?v^r  which  he 
waves  vvashed,  stretching  to  the  north-west,  beyond  Te  extent 
of  our  view.  Just  as  we  began  to  proceed  along  th^reef  the 
recurrence  of  the  fog  rendered  it  necessary  fori  to  seek  for 
shelter  on  the  shore ;  and  as  we  were  heartily  tired  of  our  ia?e 
encampment,  we  endeavoured  to  find  another,  but  the  hoals 
prevented  our  reaching  any  landing-place.    We,  therefore  rt 

S  X  rr"'  "^^"f '^  r'^  ^'^^  reluctance!  to  FogS^ 
^land  which  the  men  declared  to  be  an  enchanted  islanf 
Though  our  wanderings  this  day  did  not  exceed  seven  miles* 

It  hnT'.K'^^'^TP'^^"/  "P^^"^^«  «f  t^«  hours  in  draS 
the  boats  through  the  mud,  when  the  temperature  of  the  wat"? 

Sl^°  '  ^1^  ^l*  ""^f"?  "'^  ^^°"  The/endured  this  faZue 
with  the  greatest  cheerfulness,  though  it  was  evident  thev  suf 

ir« Vr^-if  "«-^  /'T  u*.^^  ^°^^ '  ^•^d  i»  the  evening  wYvvit 
l.h   *>M"/^^i«  «f  this  kind  of  labour  by  finding  Mr  TeL 
much  swelled  and  inflamed.     The  fear  of  their  blcoming ll 
from  a  frequent  repetition  of  such  operations  made  me  Tesflve     ' 
.hnnM  T""^^  ^  PT'S^  "^  these  flats  again  till  thTweato 

hould  be  so  clear  that  we  might  ascertain  their  extent  and 
see  in  what  way  they  might  be  passed  with  less  risk.  Fog  is 
of  all  others,  the  most  hazardous  state  of  the  atmospherS 
navigation  m  an  icy  sea,  especially  when  it  is  accompaS  bv 
strong  breezes,  but  particularly  so  for  boats  wher7the  shore 
IS  unapproachable.  If  caught  by  a  gale,  a  heavy  swe  1  or 
dnfting  ice,  the  result  must  be  LirVeck,  or  t7e  rowing 
the  provisions  o.orboard  to  lighten  them,  so  as  to  proceeTS 

18 


If 


fil 


138 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


shoal  water.     Many  large  pieces  of  ice  were  seen  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  shallow  water;  and  from  the  lowness  of  the  tem- 
perature, we  concluded  that  the  main  body  was  at  no  great 
distance.     We  had  also  passed  through  a  stream  of  perfectly 
fresh  watep,  which  we  supposed  was  poured  out  irom  a  arge 
river  in  the  intermediate  vicinity,  but  the  fog  prevented  our 
seeing  its  outlet.    The  atmosphere  was  equally  foggy  throug^i- 
out  the  night,  and  all  the  12th,  although  the 
Saturday,  12th.     ^^j^j   j^^^  changed  to  the  east,  and  blew  a 
stronc'  breeze.     Winds  from  this  quarter  had  been  extremely 
prevalent  since  the  preceding  April :  but  on  our  former  visit 
to  the  Polar  Sea,  they  had  been  of  rare  occurrenr^,  and  con- 
fined to  the  spring  months,  which  we  passed  at  t  ort  Enter- 
prize.     The  obstinate  continuance  of  fog  forms  another  mate- 
rial dilference  between  this  season  and  the  same  period  ot 
1821     We  were  only  detained  three  times  m  navigating  along 
the  coast  that  year  to  the  east  of  the  Coppermine  River;  but 
on  this  voyage  hardly  a  day  passed  after  our  departure  Irom 
the  Mackenzie  that  the  atmosphere  was  not,  at  some  time,  so 
foggy  as  to  hide  every  object  more  distant  than  tour  or  tive 
miles      The  day  that  1  visited  Mount  Conybeare,  and  that 
spent'  on  Flaxman  Island,  form  the  only  exceptions  to  this  re- 
mark.   A  question,  therefore,  suggests  itself :— Whence  arises 
this  difference  ?  which,  I  presume,  can  be  best  answered  by 
reference  to  the  greater  accumulation  of  ice  on  this  coast,  and 
to  the  low  and  very  swampy  nature  of  the  land.     There  is  a 
constant  exhalation  of  moisture  from  the  ice  and  swamps  during 
the  Summer  months,  which  is,  perhaps,  prevented  from  being 
carried  off  by  the  vicinity  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  there- 
fore, becomes  condensed  into  a  fog.     The  coast  to  the  east- 
ward  of  the  Coppermine  River  is  high  and  dry,  and  far  less 
encumbered  with  ice. 

Some  deer  appearing  near  the  encampment,  a  party  was 
despatched  in  pursuit  of  them;  but  having  been  previously 
fired  at  by  Augustus,  they  proved  too  wary.  The  exertions  ot 
the  men  were,  however,  rewarded  by  the  capture  of  some 
geese  and  ducks.  The  whole  of  the  vegetation  had  now  as- 
sumed the  autumnal  tint. 

There  was  not  the  least  abatement  in  the  wind,  or  change 
in  the  murky  atmosphere,  throughout  the  13th. 
Sunday,  13th.  ^j^^  ^^^^^  assembled  at  divine  service,  and  after- 
wards amused  themselves  as  they  could  in  their  tents,  which 
were  now  so  saturated  with  wet  as  to  be  very  comfortless 
abodes;  and  in  order  to  keep  ourselves  tolerably  warm  we 
were  obiigcu  lo  cover  ine  icfi  \viti«  i>ianiveia,  "«»  |,.^..,. 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


139 


August.] 

slay  having  caused  such  a  great  expenditure  of  the  drift-wood, 
thiit  we  found  it  necessary  to  be  frugal  in  its  use,  and  only  to 
light  the  fire  wlien  we  wanted  to  cook  the  meals.  The  nights, 
too,  we  regretted  to  find,  were  lengthening  very  fast ;  so  that 
from  ten  vm.  to  two  a.m.,  there  was  too  httle  light  for  pro- 
ceeding in  any  unknown  tract. 

The  wind  this  day  was  moderate,  but  the 
fog  was  more  dense,  and  very  wet.  Tired,  Monday,  14th. 
however,  of  the  confinement  of  the  tent,  most  of  the  party 
wandered  out  in  search  of  amusement,  though  we  could  not 
see  one  hundred  yards  ;  and  some  partridges,  ducks,  and  geese, 
were  shot. 

The  fog  was  disr)ersed  at  seven  in  the  morning 
of  the  15th,  by  a  north-east  gale,  which  created  Tuesday,  I5th. 
too  great  a  surf  on  the  beach  for  us  to  launch  the  boats,  and 
the  fog  returned  in  the  evening.  The  temperature  fell  to  35°, 
and  in  the  course  of  the  night  ice  was  formed  on  the  small 
pools  near  the  cncaujpmcnt.  Augustus  set  olFin  the  afternoon 
to  cross  over  to  the  main  shore  for  the  purpose  of  hunting,  and 
to  see  whether  there  were  any  traces  of  the  western  Esqui- 
maux, but  he  found  none,  and  only  saw  three  rein-deer. 

The  weather  again  became  clear,  after  the 
sun  rose,  on  the  IGth,  and  we  embarked  as  ^^edncsday,  I6th. 
soon  as  the  flowing  of  the  tide  enabled  us  to  launch  the  boats, 
all  in  the  highest  spirits  at  the  prospect  of  escaping  from  this 
detestable  island.  We  took  advantage  of  the  fair  wind,  set  the 
sails,  and  steered  to  the  westward  parallel  to  the  coast.  We 
had  never  mo.  j  than  from  three  to  six  feet  water,  for  the  first 
seven  miles,  until  we  had  [)assed  round  the  reef  that  projects 
from  the  point  we  had  so  often  attempted  to  reach,  and  which 
was  named  Point  Anxiety. 

Between  Point  Anxiety  and  Point  Chandos,  which  is  ei^ht 
miles  further  to  the  westward,  the  land  was  occasionally  seen; 
but  after  rounding  the  latter  point  we  lost  sight  of  it,  and' 
steered  to  the  westward  across  the  mouth  of  Yarboroufh  In- 
let, the  soundings  varying  from  five  feet  to  five  fathoms.  ^  The 
fog  returned,  and  the  wind  freshening,  soon  created  such  a 
swell  upon  the  flnts,  that  it  became  necessary  to  haul  further 
from  the  land;  but  the  drift  ice  beginning  to  close  around  us, 
we  could  no  longer  proceed  with  safety,  and,  therefore,  endea- 
voured to  find  a  landing-place.  An  attempt  was  made  at 
Point  Herald,  and  another  on  the  western  point  of  Prudhoe 
bay,  but  both  were  frustrated  by  the  shoalness  of  the  water, 
and  the  height  of  the  surf.  The  increasing  violence  of  the 
gale,  however,  and  density  of  the  fog,  rendering  it  absolutely 


140 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


necessary  for  us  to  obtain  some  shelter,  we  stood  out  to  sea- 
ward, with  the  view  of  making  fast  to  a  large  piece  of  ice.  In 
our  way  we  fell  among  gravelly  reefs,  and  arriving  at  the  same 
time  suddenly  in  smooth  water,  we  effected  a  landing  on  one 
of  them.  A  temporary  dispersion  of  the  fog  showed  that  we 
were  surrounded  with  banks  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  water, 
and  protected  to  seaward  by  a  large  body  of  ice  lying  aground. 
The  patch  of  gravel  on  which  we  were  encamped,  was  about 
five  hundred  yards  in  circumference,  destitute  of  water,  and 
with  no  more  drifl  wood  than  a  few  willow  branches,  sufficient 
to  make  one  fire. 


August.] 


OF  THE  rOLAR  SEA. 


141 


CHAPTER  V. 

Commence  Return  to  the  Mackenzie— Delayed  again  at  FoBtrv  T«Un^     T«. 
packed  on  the  Reefs  near  Beaufort  Bay,  and  on  the  Coasf  abJJf^i 
Fo^A  rdlen'^Sar  F^'^""*''^  near'kerscher  lilST  ^Se  ?„" 
meditated     Fnl??i";F''i''P^^"  ■^"■^''^  ^'^'^'^  *»>«  Mountain  Indians 
meditated-Enter  the  Mackenzie-Peel  River-Arrival  atFortFranS. 

The  period  had  now  arrived  when  it  was  in- 
cumbent  on  me  to  consider,  whether  the  pros-  W«<^nesday,  leth. 
pect  of  our  attaining  the  object  of  the  voyage  was  sufficiently 
encouragmg  to  warrant  the^^exposure  of  tL^arty  to  1  Iv  n^ 
creasing  risk,  by  continuing  on.    We  were  now  only  half  Vay 

rrhn.%ffr"/"!,^*°  '^\^^P^^  -**  the'^hancrYf 
reaching  the  latter  depended  on  the  nature  of  the  coast  that 

ZZ^-    aT^^^""'^^'  ^"^  *^^  P°'*'°"  of  the  summer  which  yet 
remained  for  our  operations.  ^ 

^boi'^r'  ??""  J!?^  descriptions  of  Cook  and  Burney,  that  the 
shore  about  Icy  Cape  resembled  that  we  had  already  nassed 
•n  being  flat   and  difficult  of  approach;  whiirthT general 

west  /  '^  '^%r?  ^'"i"  '^'  M.ckem\^  to  the  westS 
west,  nearly  m  he  direction  of  Icy  Cape,  combined  with  the 
information  we  had  collected  from  the  Esquimaux,  le^  me  to 
rSVo'tn?  ™^*^"^^  ^'^"^^  -^^''  ^^^-"^  -  *"-nU! 
The  preceding  narrative  shows  the  difficulties  of  navicatinff 
such  a  coast,  even  during  the  finest  part  of  the  summer-  if 
mdeed,  any  portion  of  a  season  which  had  been  marked  bV  a 
constant  succession  of  fogs  and  gales  could  be  called  fine  No 
opportunihr  of  advancing  had  been  let  slip,  after  the  time  of 
our  arrival  m  the  Arctic  Sea ;  and  the  unwearied  zeal  anTex! 

explore  the  ten  d^rees  of  longitude  between  Herschel  Island 

m^,l  In  *•  ten  remammg  degrees  could  be  navigated  fn 
much  less  time.  The  ice,  it  is  true,  was  more  broken  up,  and 
h«H  l!ir°'"'\*'"''  P'^]?*  encampment  was  clear;  but  we 
«hlL  K  ^  '""''  ^u"^  '"^^i'y  *^^  ^"ft  '^^  ^««  packed  ipon  the 
shoals  by  every  breeze  of  wind  blowing  towards  the  land    The 

nnT""'  ^'?  ri  1  ^^  ^^^"'  ^««  "«^  nearly  at  an  end,  anS 
on  this  poinU  hadjhe  experience  of  the  former  vovale  for  a 
gumc.    .u  romi  1  urn-again,  two  degrees  to  the  soiitl^  of  our 


142 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


present  situation,  the  comparatively  warm  summer  of  1821 
was  terminated  on  the  17th  of  August,  by  severe  storms  ol 
wind  and  snow ;  and  in  the  space  of  a  fortnight  afterwards 
winter  set  in  with  all  its  severity.  Last  year,  too,  on  the  1 8th 
and  following  days  of  the  same  month,  we  had  a  heavy  gale  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie ;  and  appearances  did  not  indi- 
cate that  the  present  season  would  prove  more  favourable. 
The  mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  had  decreased  ra- 
pidly since  the  sun  had  begun  to  sink  below  the  horizon,  and 
the  thermometer  had  not  lately  shown  a  higher  temperature 
than  37°.  Ice,  of  coisiderable  thickness,  formed  in  the  ntght, 
and  the  number  of  the  flocks  of  geese  which  were  hourly 
seen  pursuing  their  course  to  the  westward,  showed  that  then- 
autumnal  flignt  had  commenced.  c     •      i  i     i 

While  a  hope  remained  of  reaching  Behring  Straits,  1  look- 
ed upon  the  hazard  to  which  we  had,  on  several  occasions, 
been  exposed,  of  shipwreck  on  the  flats,  or  on  the  ice,  as  in- 
separable from  a  voyage  of  the  nature  of  that  which  we  had 
undertaken;  and  if  such  an  accident  had  occurred,  1  should 
have  hoped,  with  a  suflicient  portion  of  the  summer  before  me, 
to  conduct  my  party  in  safety  back  to  the  Mackenzie,  but 
the  loss  of  the  boats  when  we  should  have  been  far  advanced, 
and  at  the  end  of  the  season,  would  have  been  fatal.  1  he 
deer  hasten  from  the  coast  as  soon  as  the  snow  falls ;  no  Ls- 
quimaux  had  been  lately  seen,  nor  any  winter-houses,  to  de- 
note that  this  part  of  the  coast  was  much  frequented ;  and  i 
we  did  meet  them  under  adverse  circumstances,  we  could 
not,  with  safety,  trust  to  their  assistance  for  a  supply  of  pro- 
vision ;  nor  do  I  believe  that,  if  willing,  even  they  would  have 
been  able  to  support  our  party  for  any  length  of  time. 

Till  our  tedious  detention  at  Foggy  Island,  we  had  had  no 
doubt  of  ultimate  success ;  and  it  was  with  no  ordinary  pain 
that  I  could  now  bring  myself  even  to  think  of  relinquishing 
the  great  object  of  my  ambition,  and  of  disappointing  the  flat- 
tering confidence  that  had  been  reposed  in  my  exertions.  But 
I  had  higher  duties  to  perform  than  the  gratihcation  of  my 
own  feelings ;  and  a  mature  consideration  of  all  the  above 
matters  forced  me  to  the  conclusion,  that  we  had  reached  that 
point  beyond  which  perseverance  would  be  rashness,  and  our 
best  efforts  must  be  fcuitless.  In  order  to  put  the  reader  com- 
pletely in  possession  of  the  motives  which  would  have  mllu- 
cnced  me,  had  I  been  entirely  a  free  agent,  I  have  mentioned 
them  without  allusion  to  the  clause  in  my  instructions  which 
directed  me  to  commence  my  return  on  the  1 5th  or  20th  ol 
August,  "if.  111  consequence  oi  alow  piw^iu==,  -i  ^•".< '  mi.^-i- 


[1826. 

ir  of  1821 
storms  of 
ifterwards, 
m  the  1 8th 
ivy  gale  at 
d  not  indi- 
favourable. 
creased  ra- 
)iizon,  and 
imperature 
i  the  night, 
ere  hourly 
i  that  their 

Ills,  I  look- 
occasions, 
ice,  as  in- 
ch wc  had 
d,  1  sihould 
before  me, 
inzic.  But 
•  advanced, 
atal.  The 
Us ;  no  Es- 
ises,  to  de- 
ted;  and  if 
,  we  could 
ply  of  pro- 
would  have 
Tie. 

lad  had  no 
dinary  pain 
jlinquishing 
iiig  the  flat- 
rtions.  But 
ition  of  my 
the  above 
cached  that 
;ss,  and  our 
eader  corn- 
have  inihi- 
!  mentioned 
tions  whicii 
1  or  20th  of 

\Unf  iiufnrp- 

l5i».  *     r...- —  — 


August.] 


oil'  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


143 


seen  accident,  it  should  remain  doubtful  whether  we  should 
be  able  to  reach  Kotzebue's  Inlet  the  same  season." 

In  the  evening  I  communicated  my  determination  to  the 
whole  party;  they  received  it  with  the  good  feeling  that  had 
marked  their  conduct  throughout  the  voyage,  and  they  assured 
me  oi  their  cheerful  acquiescence  in  any  order  I  should  give 
The  readmess  with  which  they  would  have  prosecuted  the 
voyage,  had  it  been  advisable  to  do  so,  was  the  more  credita- 
ble, because  many  of  them  had  their  legs  swelled  and  inflamed 
Irom  continually  wading  in  ice-cold  water  while  launching  the 
boats,  not  only  when  we  accidentally  ran  on  shore,  but  tn^ery 
time  that  It  was  requisite  to  embark,  or  to  land  upon  this  shal- 
low coast.     Nor  were  these  symptoms  to  be  overlooked  in 
coming  to  a  determination;  for  though  no  one  who  knows  the 
resolute  disposition  of  British  sailors  can  be  surprised  at  their 
more  than  readiness  to  proceed,  I  felt  that  it  was  my  business 
tojudge  of  theircapabiHty  of  so  doing,  and  not  to  allow  myself 
to  be  seduced  by  their  ardour,  however  honourable  to  them 
and  cheering  to  me. 

Compelled  as  I  was  to  come  to  the  determination  of  return- 
ing, it  is  a  great  satisfaction  to  me  to  know,  as  I  now  do  that 
the  reasons  which  induced  me  to  take  this  step  were  'well- 
lounded.  This  will  appear  by  the  following  extract  from 
l^aptam  Becchey's  official  account  of  his  proceedings  in  ad- 
vancing eastward  from  Icy  Cape,  with  which  I  have  been 
lavoured. 

"  Mr.  Elson,  (the  master,)  after  quitting  the  ship  off  Icy 
Cape,  on  the  18th  August,  had  proceeded  along  the  coast 
without  mterruption,  until  the  22nd  of  the  month,  when  he 
arrived  off  a  very  low  sandy  spit,  beyond  which,  to  the  east- 
vvard,  the  coast  formed  a  bay,  with  a  more  easterly  trending 
than  that  on  the  west  side;  but  it  was  so  low  that  it  could  not 
be  traced  far,  and  became  blended  with  the  ice  before  it 
reached  the  horizon.     It  was  found  impossible  to  proceed 
round  tlie  spit,  in  consequence  of  the  ice  being  grounded  upon 
it,  and  extending  to  the  horizon  in  every  direction,  except  that 
by  which  the  boat  had  advanced,  and  was  so  compact  that  no 
openings  were  seen  in  any  part  of  it.   This  point,  which  is  the 
most  northern  part  of  the  continent  yet  known,  lies  in  latitude 
by  mendian  altitude  of  the  sun,  71°  23'  39"  N.;  and  longitude,' 
iL'oT/;  w^*'  of  lunar  distances,  both  observed  on  an  iceberg, 
156  21  W.;  and  is  situated  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
beyond  Icy  Cape.     Between  these  two  stations,  and,  indeed, 
to  the  southward  of  the  latter,  the  coast  is  very  flat,  abounding 
in  lakes  and  nvpre  wrhiVli  o.-^^  *f.^  „i,_ii_„.  j._  i_  _       ,        ,  ,  ° 
'  ".s.v.t  mv  iQu  snaiiuw  lu  DC  cnierea  by  any 


>  t:! 


41 


144 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


f't- 


thing  but  a  baidar.  The  greater  part  of  the  coast  is  thickly 
inhabited  by  Esquimaux,  who  have  their  winter-habitations 
close  to  the  beach. 

"  The  barge  had  not  been  off  this  point  sufficiently  long  to 
complete  the  necessary  observations,  when  the  same  westerly 
wind,  which  had  induced  me  to  proceed  round  Cape  Lisburn, 
brought  the  ice  down  upon  the  coast,  and  left  the  boat  no 
retreat.  It  at  the  same  time  occasioned  a  current  along  shore 
to  the  northward,  at  the  rate  of  three  and  four  miles  per  hour. 
The  body  of  ice  took  the  ground  in  six  and  seven  fathoms  water, 
but  pieces  of  a  lighter  draft  filled  up  the  space  between  it  and 
the  shore,  and,  hurried  along  by  the  impetuosity  of  the  current, 
drove  the  barge  ashore,  but  fortunately  without  staving  her. 
By  the  exertions  of  her  officers  and  crew  she  was  extricated 
from  this  perilous  situation,  and  attempts  were  made  to  track 
her  along  the  land  wherever  openings  occurred,  in  execution 
of  which  the  greatest  fatigue  was  endured  by  all  her  crew.  At 
length  all  efforts  proving  ineffectual,  and  the  spaces  between 
the  ice  and  the  shore  becoming  frozen  over,  it  was  proposed 
to  abandon  the  boat,  and  the  crew  to  make  their  way  along 
the  coast  to  Kotzebue  Sound,  before  the  season  should  be  too 
far  advanced.  Preparations  were  accordingly  made;  and  that 
the  boat  might  not  be  irrevocably  lost  to  the  ship,  it  was  de- 
termined to  get  her  into  one  of  the  lakes,  and  there  sink  her, 
that  the  natives  might  not  break  her  up,  and  from  which  she 
might  be  extricated  the  following  summer,  should  the  ship  re- 
turn. During  this  period  of  their  difficulties  they  received 
much  assistance  from  the  natives,  who,  for  a  little  tobacco,  put 
their  hands  to  the  tow-rope.  Their  conduct  had,  in  the  first 
instance,  been  suspicious;  but  in  the  time  of  their  greatest  dis- 
tress, they  were  well  disposed,  bringing  venison,  seal's  flesh, 
oil,  &:c.,  and  offered  up  a  prayer  that  the  wind  would  blow  off 
the  shore,  and  liberate  the  boat  from  her  critical  situation. 
Before  the  necessary  arrangements  were  made  respecting  the 
barge,  appeamnces  took  a  more  favourable  turn ;  the  ice  began 
to  move  offshore,  and  after  much  tracking,  &:c.,  the  boat  was 
got  clear,  and  made  the  best  of  her  way  toward  the  sound ;  but 
off  Cape  Lisburn  she  met  with  a  gale  of  wind,  which  blew  in 
eddies  so  violently,  that  it  is  said  the  spray  was  carried  up  to 
the  tops  of  the  mountains;  and  the  boat,  during  this  trial,  be- 
haved so  well,  that  not  a  moment's  anxiety  for  her  safety  was 
entertained.  I  must  not  close  the  account  without  expressing 
my  warm  approbation  of  the  conduct  of  Mr.  Elson." 

The  barge  rejoined  Captain  Beechey  on  the  10th  Septem- 
ber, at  Chamisso  Island,  the  Blossom  having  gone  thither  to 


[182C. 

:  is  thickly 
labitations 

tly  long  to 
B  westerly 
Q  Lisburn, 
e  boat  no 
long  shore 
I  per  hour. 
3ms  water, 
cen  it  and 
le  current, 
aving  her. 
extricated 
le  to  track 
execution 
crew.  At 
s  between 
t  proposed 
way  along 
uld  be  too 
;  and  that 
it  was  de- 
i  sink  her, 
which  she 
le  ship  re- 
'  received 
bacco,  put 
in  the  hrst 
eatest  dis- 
iaPs  flesh, 
d  blow  off 

situation, 
ecting  the 

ice  began 
J  boat  was 
lound ;  but 
;h  blew  in 
ried  up  to 
3  trial,  be- 
safety  was 
expressing 

h  Septem- 
thither  to 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


145 


August.] 

wood  and  water,  and  being  further  forced  to  quit  the  coast  to 
the  northward,  in  consequence  of  strong  westerly  winds. 

Could  I  have  known,  or  by  possibility  imagined,  that  a 
party  from  the  Blossom  had  been  at  the  distance  of  only  one 
hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  me,  no  difticulties,  dangers,  or 
discouragmg  circumstances,  should  have  prevailed  on  me  to 
return  ;  but  taking  into  account  the  uncertainty  of  all  voyages 
in  a  sea  obstructed  by  ice,  I  had  no  right  to  expect  that  the 
Blossom  had  advanced  beyond  Kotzebue  Inlet,  or  that  any 
party  from  her  had  doubled  Icy  Cape.  It  is  useless  now  to 
speculate  on  the  probable  result  of  a  proceeding  which  did  not 
take  place;  but  I  may  observe,  that,  had  we  gone  forward  as 
soon  as  the  weather  permitted,  namely,  on  the  18th,  it  is 
scarcely  possible  that  any  change  of  circumstances  could  have 
enabled  us  to  overtake  the  Blossom's  barge.* 

The  wind  changed  to  N.E.  after  midnight, 
the  squalls  were  more  violent,  and  in  the  morn-  ^"""day,  nth. 
ing  of  the  1 7th  such  a  surf  was  beating  on  the  borders  of  the 
reef,  that  the  boats  could  not  be  launched.   The  fog  disap- 
peared before  the  gale  about  eleven,  and  during  the  afternoon 
we  enjoyed  the  clearest  atmosphere  that  we  had  witnessed 
smce  our  departure  from  Mount  Conybeare.     This  was  the 
first  opportunity  there  had  been,  for  the  seven  preceding  days 
of  makmg  astronomical  observations,  and  we  gladly  took  ad- 
vantage o^it,to  observe  the  latitude,  70°  26'  N. ;  longitude 
148°  52  W . ;  and  variation  41°  20'  E.     We  had  likewise  the 
gratihcatioh  of  bemg  able  to  trace  the  land  round  Gwydyr  Bav 
to  Its  outer  point,  bearing  S.  79  W.  ten  miles,  which  I  have 
named  after  my  excellent  companion  Lieutenant  Back  and  of 
seeing  a  still  more  westerly  hummock,  bearing  S.  84  W   about 
fifteen  miles,  that  has  been  distinguished  by  the  name  of  my 
friend  Captain  Beechey ;  at  which  point,  in  latitude  70°  24'  N 
longitude  149°  37'  W.,  our  discoveries  terminated.     The  foe 
returned  at  sunret,  and  as  the  wind  was  piercingly  cold  and 
we  had  neither  fire  nor  room  for  exercise,  we  crept  between 
the  blankets,  as  the  only  means  of  keeping  ourselves  warm 

Ihe  gale  having  considerably  abated,  and  the 
weather  being  clear,  we  quitted  Return  Reef  on  ^"^^y^  ^^ih. 

*  I  havo  recently  learned,  by  letter  from  Captain  Beechey,  that  the  bar<re 

ice    He  hkewiBe  informs  me,  that  the  summer  of  1827  was  so  unfavourab 
for  the  navigation  of  the  northern  coast  of  America,  that  the  Blossom  dd 

rfa7tft^:etf„f  ^' r'^  ^V"  ''''  r-dingyear;'nor  coul^hS^  Zt^it 
BO  tar  to  the  east  of  Icy  Cape,  by  one  Imndrcd  miles.    The  natives  he  savs 
were  numerous,  and,  in  some  instances,  il!-di«posed.  n^^^^cs,  lit  says, 

19 


•ili 


146 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[18  26 


the  morning  of  the  18th,  and  began  to  retrace  our  way  towards 
the  Mackenzie.  As  the  waves  were  still  very  high  to  seaward, 
we  attempted  to  proceed  inside  of  the  reefs,  but  as  the  boats 
wero  constantly  taking  the  ground,  we  availed  ourselves  of  the 
first  channel  that  was  sufficiently  deep  to  pull  on  the  outside 
of  them.  The  swell  being  too  great  there  for  the  use  of  the 
oars,  the  sails  were  set  double  reefed,  and  the  boats  beat  to 
the  eastward  against  the  wind,  between  the  drift  ice  and  the 
shallow  water. 

A  gale  rose  after  noon  from  N.E.  by  N.,  which  enabled  us 
to  shape  a  course  for  Foggy  Island,  wijcre  we  arrived  at  three 
P.M.,  just  at  a  time  when  the  violence  of  the  squalls,  and  the 
increased  height  of  the  swell,  would  have  rendered  further 
proceeding  very  hazardous.     We  now  enjoyed  the  comforts  of 
a  good  fire  and  a  warm  meal,  which  we  had  not  had  since  the 
evening  of  the  16th.     The  men  were  afterwards  employed  in 
erecting  a  square  pile  of  drift  timber,  on  the  highest  part  of  the 
island  fronting  the  sea,  on  which  a  red  cornet  flag  was  left  fly- 
ing, and  underneath  it  was  deposited,  in  a  tin  case,  a  letter  for 
Captain  Parry,  containing  an  account  of  our  proceedings  ;  also 
a  silver  medal  and  a  halfpenny:  and  in  order  that  government 
might  have  some  chance  of  hearing  of  our  proceedings,  should 
any  accident  subsequently  befal  the  party,  there  was  also  depo- 
sited an  unsealed  letter,  wrapped  in  bark,  addressed  to  the 
Russian  Fur  Traders,  in  the  expectation  that  the  Esquimaux 
might  probably  convey  it  to  their  Establishment.  An  ice  chissel, 
a  knife,  a  file,  and  a  hatchet,  were  hung  up  on  the  pile,  for  the 
Esquimaux.     On  digging  to  erect  these  posts,  the  ground  was 
found  frozen  at  the  depth  of  sixteen  inches;  and  the  thermo- 
meter, during  the  day,  seldom  rose  above  37°.     This  evening 
the  temperature  was  33°.     We  were  vexatiously  detained  the 
19tli,  and  following  day,  by  the  continuance  of 
Saturday,  19th.    ^^^  gale,  and  a  thick  fog;  during  which  time 
many  large  flocks  of  geese  were  observed  passing  away  to  the 
westward.     The  tides  were  now  much  higher  than  during  our 
first  visit. 

The  breeze  was  moderate  on  the  morning  of 
Monday,  21st.  ^j^^  21st,  yet  We  were  prevented  from  embark- 
ing until  ten  o'clock,  by  the  return  of  the  fog.  We  then  hast- 
ened to  escape  from  this  ill-omened  island.  The  boats  were 
pulled  to  seaward,  so  as  to  gain  a  sufticient  offing  for  them  to 
pass  on  the  outside  of  the  shallow  water;  and  by  the  aid  of 
the  oars  and  sails  we  made  good  progress,  and  encamped  with- 
in sight  of  Flaxman  Island.  A  black  whale,  a  seal  of  the  lai^est 
kind,  and  numerous  flocks  of  geese  were  seen  in  the  course  of 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


147 


AugUBt] 

this  day  Several  stars  were  visible  after  ten  p.m.  Showers 
ot  snow  fell  during  the  night,  but  the  morning  of 
the  22nd  was  calm  and  clear.  We  embarked  Tuesday,  22nd. 
at  daylight  and  in  the  course  of  three  hours  arrived  abreast  of 
the  east  end  of  Flaxman  Island.  The  ice  had  broken  from  the 
northern  shore  dunng  our  absence,  and  was  now  lying  about  a 
mile  from  tne  land,  apparently  aground  on  reefs,  as  we  had  ob- 
served  It  to  be  along  the  outer  border  of  the  one  at  the  west 
end  of  the  island  The  water  was  much  deeper  between  Flax- 
man  Island  and  the  mam,  that  when  we  passed  in  the  early  part 
of  August  East^vard  of  Point  Brownlow  there  was  an  open 
channel  of  three  or  four  miles  wide.     And  by  keeping  close  to 

mouth  nnh.r  *^-  '^S^  '''  ^T  ^^"'^^^  '^'^  '^^^^^'^  «t  the 
mouth  ofthe  Canning  R,  ver,  and  arrived  at  Boulder  Island  about 

noon,     Here  we  found  an  Esquimaux  grave,  containing  three 
bodies,  covered  with  drift  timber,  and  by  their  side  the"l  were 
placed  the  canoes,  arrows,  and  fishing  implements  of  the  de- 
ceased.    Not  being  able  to  procure  fresh  water  here,  we  set 
forward  to  cross  Camden  Bay,  touched  at  one  of  the  points  to 
fill  the  water-casks,  and  reached  Barter  Island  after  dark  •  the 
crews  much  fatigued   having  been  pulling  for  nineteen  hours. 
We  regretted  to  find  the  Esquimaux  had  visited  this  spot  during 
our  absence,  and  carried  away  the  gun  and  ammunition  which 
had  been  left  by  mistake  at  the  encampment  on  the  4th  of 
August,  because  we  were  not  only  apprehensive  that  some  ac 
cident  might  have  occurred  in  the  attempt  to  discharge  the  gun 
but  were, desirous  to  prevent  the  introduction  of  fire-arms 
among  these  people.     Being  now  near  the  point  ofthe  coast 
at  which  we  had  seen  a  considerable  number  of  the  natives 
we  remained  at  the  encampment  until  ten  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  the  23d,  to  clean  the  guns  and 
issue  a  fresh  supply  of  ammunition  to  the     Wednesday,  23rd. 
party.     The  day  vvas  calm  and  cloudless ;  the  whole  range  of 
the  RomanzofT  Mountains  was  in  sight,  and  they  appearld  to 
be  more  covered  with  snow  than  when  we  passed  to  the  wesN 
ward    A  few  nj.isqu.toes  made  their  appearance,  but  they  were 
very  feeble.     Having  landed  at  Poiit  Manning  to  replenish 
the  water-casks  we  afterwards  pulled  throughout  theday  do  e 
to  the  edge  of  the  ice,  which  was  still  heavv,  though  loofe  and 
encamped  near  Point  Griffin.     Some  large^ized  medusi'  and 
several  of  the  gelatinous  substances  knotn  to  seamen  W 'he 
name  of  blubber  vvere  found  on  the  beach,  which  accoTned 
for  the  number  of  black  ducks  that  had  been  seen  in  ?he  course 
of  the  day,  as  they  feed  on  those  substances.  The  t" mn.'n"   ! 


148 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


■■■  f{. 


varied  this  day  from  35°  to  46° ;  and  the  thermometer  rose  to 
64°  at  two  P.M.,  when  exposed  to  the  sun's  rays. 

The  morning  of  the  24th  was  calm;  we  set 
Thursday,  24th.  forward  at  daylight,  and  having  proceeded  a 
few  miles  between  heavy  floating  ice,  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  shore  we  met  with  a  lai^e  sheet  of  bay  ice  of  last  night's 
formation,  of  sufficient  thickness  to  impede  though  not  to  stop 
the  boats.  Having  arrived  abreast  of  Point  Humphreys,  we 
steered  out  to  seaward,  for  the  purpose  of  avoiding  the  shal- 
lows that  extend  across  Beaufort  Bay,  intending  to  direct  our 
course  in  a  line  for  Mount  Conybeare,  which  was  in  sight.  We 
were  then  exposed  to  a  long  rolHng  swell,  and  we  soon  after- 
wards perceived  that  it  had  driven  the  ice  upon  the  reefs  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  bay,  which  would  have  precluded 
our  retreat  to  the  shore  in  the  event  of  the  wind  rising.  It 
therefore  became  necessary  to  penetrate  into  the  pack,  and 
keep  by  the  side  of  the  reefs  ;  but  in  doing  so,  the  boats  were 
exposed  to  no  little  danger  of  being  broken  in  passing  through 
the  narrow  channels  between  the  masses  of  ice  which  were 
tossing  with  the  swell,  and  from  which  large  pieces  frequently 
fell.  At  six  P.M.  we  passed  our  former  encampment  on  Icy 
Reef,  and  afterwards  proceeded  through  an  open  space  to  De- 
marcation Point,  where  we  encamped,  and  hauled  up  the  boats 
to  prevent  them  from  being  injured  by  the  surf.  We  found 
here  two  famihes  of  Esquimaux,  which  belonged  to  the  party 
that  had  been  to  Barter  Island,  waiting  the  return  of  a  man 
from  hunting,  in  order  to  follow  their  companions  to  the  east- 
ward. They  showed  much  joy  at  seeing  us  again,  and  remain- 
ed the  greater  part  of  the  night  talking  with  Augustus.  The 
most  active  young  man  of  the  party,  not  thinking  himself  suffi- 
ciently smart  for  the  occasion,  retired  to  the  oomiack  to  change 
his  dress  and  mouth  ornaments,  capering  about  on  his  return, 
evidently  proud  of  his  gayer  appearance. 

The  morning  was  foggy,  but  there  being  \iltle 
Friday,  25th.  ^^j^^j^  ^j^q  launched  the  l3oats,  and  pulled  for  an 

hour  close  to  the  shore,  when  we  came  to  a  body  of  ice  eo 
closely  packed  as  scarcely  to  affiard  a  passage,  and  it  was  with 
difficulty  that  we  arrived  at  Clarence  River.  There  we  perceiv- 
ed four  tents  ;  near  which  we  had  been  warned  by  our  visitors 
last  night  not  to  land,  as  the  party  had  recently  lost  their  pa- 
rents, and  it  was  feared  that,  in  the  state  of  mind  in  which 
they  then  were,  they  might  be  disposed  to  do  us  some  injury. 
We  pulled  near  enough  to  inquire  about  the  gun,  and  learned 
that  the  person  who  had  it  was  farther  to  the  eastward.  The 
diiTjcuiiieb  of  forcing  a  passairc  were  not  dirninishcu  beyond 


[1826. 

r  rose  to 

;  we  set 
:eeded  a 
lile  from 
st  night's 
>t  to  stop 
reys,  we 
the  shal- 
irect  our 
ight.  We 
on  after- 
;  reefs  at 
recluded 
ising.  It 
>ack,  and 
ats  were 
;  through 
ich  were 
requently 
it  on  Icy 
ce  to  De- 
the  boats 
Ve  found 
the  party 
of  a  man 
the  east- 
d  remain- 
US.  The 
iself  suffi- 
to  change 
us  return, 

eing  \itt1e 
3d  for  an 
of  ice  flo 

was  with 
e  perceiv- 
ir  visitors 

their  pa- 
in which 
ne  injury, 
d  learned 

Td.     The 

1  I ..  1 

u   ucyuliu 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


149 


this  place,  and  we  were  further  impeded  in  our  advance  by 
new  ice  formed  between  the  larger  masses,  which  required 
additiona  labour  to  break  through.  The  fog  cleared  away  at 
ten  i  ^ye  halted  to  breakfast  at  Backhouse  River,  and  remain- 
ed  whilst  Augustus  went  in  pursuit  of  two  rein-deer,  one  of 
which  he  killed.  ' 

Renewing  our  course,  we  passed  on  the  outside  of  the  ice  un- 
til we  vvere  nearly  abreast  of  Mount  Conybeare,  when  the  wind 
came  strong  from  the  eastward,  and  obliged  us  to  have  recourse 
again  to  its  shelter.  This  barrier,  however,  terminated  at  the 
end  othve  miles,  and  being  then  exposed  to  the  wind  and  swell, 
agajnst  which  the  men  were  unable  to  pull,  we  encamped. 

1  he  experience  we  had  now  gained  of  the  ice  being  packed 
upon  this  shore  by  a  wind  from  the  sea,  assured  us  of  the  cor- 
rectness of  the  report  which  the  Esquimaux  had  given,  and 
likewise  afforded  a  reason  for  their  expression  of  surprise  at  our 
being  unprovided  with  sledges,  as  it  was  evident,  unless  a  strong 
wind  blew  from  the  land,  that  the  new  ice  would  soon  unite  the 
pack  with  the  shore,  and  preclude  the  possibility  of  making  the 
passage  in  boats,  unless  by  going  outside  of  the  ice,  which  would 
be  extremely  hazardous,  from  the  want  of  shelter  in  the  event 
of  a  gale  springing  up.  The  pieces  of  ice  were  generally  from  ten 
to  fafteen  feet  m  height,  many  of  them  were  from  twenty  to  thirty 
teet :  their  length  was  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  yards     We 
saw  several  white  whales  in  the  open  water,  and  a  flock  of  white 
geese  at  the  encampment,  which  were  the  first  noticed  on  this 
coast.     The  rising  of  the  wind  from  E.N.E.  this  afternoon  was 
accompanied  by  an  increase  of  temperature  from  43°  to  53° 
and  we  felt  a  comfortable  sensation  of  warmth,  to  which  we  had 
been  strangers  for  the  preceding  month. 

We  took  advantage  of  a  favourable  breeze  to 
embark  before  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the    ^'^^"'•day,  26th. 
26th;  at  sunrise  it  increased  to  a  gale,  and  raised  a  heavy  sea 
In  two  hours  we  ran  to  the  commencement  of  the  intricate- 
channels  leading  to  Herschel  Island,  where  the  Esquimaux 
seen  at  Barter  Island  were  encamped  on  a  reef,  and  apparently 
gazing  in  astonishment  at  the  speed  of  our  boats.     They  made 
many  signs  for  us  to  land,  which  we  were  desirous  of  doing  had 
It  been  practicable  for  the  surf.     That  the  boats  might  be  per- 
fectly  manageable,  we  took  two  reefs  in  the  sails,  and  shaped 
the  course  for  Herschel  Island ;  but  scarcely  were  the  sails  reset 
before  a  .og  came  on  that  hid  every  mark  that  could  guide  us- 
a  heavy  swell  was  rolling  at  the  time,  and  to  arrive  at  the  island 
we  had  to  pass  through  a  channel  only  about  two  hundred  vards 
uroad.   1  o  fuul  this,  surrounded  as  it  was  by  shoals,  in  the  midst 


150 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


I'  -i 


%' 


,.M  r  ... 
'Iff  li.'(ii 


of  a  dense  fog,  was  a  task  of  considerable  anxiety  and  danger, 
and  our  situation  was  not  rendered  more  agreeable  by  being  as- 
sailed the  whole  way  with  continued  shouting  from  persons  to  us 
invisible ;  our  arrival  having  been  communicated  by  the  Esqui- 
maux who  first  descried  us,  to  their  companions  on  the  neigh- 
bouring reefs.  We  effected  it,  however,  and  landed  in  safety, 
though  we  did  not  discover  the  island  till  we  were  within  forty 
yards  of  its  shore.  We  had  scarcely  landed  before  the  fog  dis- 
persed, and  discovered  to  us  a  solitary  tent  on  an  adjacent  point. 
Three  men  soon  paid  us  a  visit,  whom  we  had  not  seen  bo- 
fore,  and  they  informed  us  that  nearly  the  whole  of  the  tribe 
was  now  collected  in  the  vicinity  for  the  purpose  of  hunting 
deer,  and  catching  whales  and  seals  for  the  winters  consump- 
tion. We  quitted  the  island  at  ten  a.m.,  and  steered  directly 
for  Point  Kay,  to  avoid  the  sinuosities  of  the  coast,  and  the 
frequent  interruption  of  the  Esquimaux,  whose  tents  were  ob- 
served to  be  scattered  on  the  beach  nearly  the  whole  way  to 
Babbage  River.  Three  men  and  some  women  came  otf  to 
bring  us  fish,  and  being  liberally  rewarded,  they  went  away 
perfectly  happy,  singing  the  praises  of  the  white  people.  We 
passed  round  Point  Kay  at  four  p.m.,  with  a  moderate  breeze 
from  W.N.W.,  and  steered  for  Point  King,  keeping  about  two 
miles  from  the  land.  As  the  afternoon  wore  away,  gloomy 
clouds  gathered  in  the  north-west ;  and  at  six  a  violent  squall 
came  from  that  quarter,  attended  with  snow  and  sleet.  The 
gale  increased  with  rapidity:  in  less  than  ten  minutes  the  sea 
was  white  with  foam,  and  such  waves  were  raised  as  I  bad 
never  before  been  exposed  to  in  a  boat.  The  spray  and  sea 
broke  over  us  incessantly,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  we 
could  keep  free  by  baling.  Our  little  vessels  went  through  the 
water  with  great  velocity  uiider  a  close-reefed  sail,  hoisted 
about  three  feet  up  the  main -mast,  and  proved  themselves  to 
be  very  buoyant.  Their  small  size,  however,  and  the  nature  of 
their  construction,  necessarily  adapted  for  the  navigation  of 
shallow  rivers,  unfitting  ihem  for  withstanding  the  sea  then 
running,  we  were  in  imminent  danger  of  foundering.  I  there- 
fore resolved  on  making  for  the  shore,  as  the  only  means  of 
saving  the  party,  although  I  was  aware  that,  in  so  doing,  1  in- 
curred the  hazard  of  staving  the  boats,  there  being  few  places 
on  this  part  of  the  coast  where  there  was  sufficient  beach  un- 
der the  broken  cliffs.  The  wind  blowing  along  the  land  we 
could  not  venture  on  exposing  the  boat's  side  to  the  sea  by  haul- 
ing directly  in,  but,  edgmg  away  with  the  wind  on  the  quarter, 
we  most  providentially  took  the  ground  in  a  favourable  spot. 
1  he  Doais  were  inaiantiy  ihiuu  witu  tnc  aUij,  uui  uic/   wcic 


[1826. 

ind  danger, 
>y  being  as- 
ersons  to  us 
r  the  Esqui- 
I  the  neigh- 
!d  in  safety, 
jvithin  forty 
the  fog  dis- 
acent  point, 
lot  seen  bo- 
>f  the  tribe 

of  hunting 
s  consump- 
red  directly 
st,  and  the 
its  were  ob- 
lole  way  to 
:ame  otf  to 

went  away 
Bople.  We 
rate  breeze 
2!  about  two 
ay,  gloomy 
olent  squall 
sleet.  The 
ites  the  sea 
ed  as  I  had 
ray  and  sea 
ilty  that  we 
through  the 
iail,  hoisted 
emselves  to 
he  nature  of 
ivigation  of 
tie  sea  then 
ng.  I  there- 
ly  means  of 

doing,  I  iii- 
;  few  places 
t  beach  un- 
lie  land  we 
sea  by  haul- 
the  quarter, 
irable  spot. 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


151 


unloaded  and  dragged  up  without  having  sustained  any  mate- 
rial damage.     Impressed  with  a  sense  of  gratitude  for  the  s^ 
nal  dehverance  vve  had  experienced  on  this  Td  oVhc    occa 
sions,  we  assembled  in  the  evening  to  oiler  up  nrai^e  and 
thanksgiving  to  the  Almighty.  ^  ^  ^"** 

On  the  27th  the  weather  was  calm  ;  but  as  a 
heavy  surf  prevented  our  embarkation,  we  took    Sunday,  27th. 

tlTu^^l!  *'''  ^^^^^'  ^Z?'y  °"'*  ^^^^"'^'  clothes,  and  pern- 
mican.  The  guns  were  likewise  cleaned,  and  every  thinrD^t 
in  order.  There  was  an  Esquimaux  party  at  this  7pot  whkh 
had  witnessed  the  landing  of  the  boats  in  the  sto  m  w  h  asto. 
nishment  having  expected  to  see  every  man  drowned  Aug  is- 
tus  passed  the  night  at  their  tents ;  and  havin-  broueht  the 
whole  party  to  our  encampment,  th^  women,  wfth  3 good 
nature,  sewed  soles  of  seal-skins  to  the  men's  mocassins^n 
order  to  ftt  them  better  for  the  operation  oHrack^ng  n  whi  h 
they  were  soon  to  be  employed.  These  Esquimaux  had  re- 
cen  ly  re  urned  from  a  visit  to  the  gang  that  had  pillaged  the 
boats  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie^  and  we  n^ow  learned 
he  intention  that  had  been  entertained  of  destroying  our  par- 

Our  approach  to  the  Mackenzie  was  marked  by 
the  quantity  of  drift  timber  floating  about     We  Monday,  28th. 
passed  several  families  of  the  natives,  without  visiting  them 
until  we  perceived  one  party  taking  some  fish  from  their  S' 
which  tempted  us  to  land.     The  fish  were  large^V  ame And 
tHconnA,  and  proved  remarkably  fine.     We  alain  embfrked 
but  having  to  pull  head  to  the  sea,  we  took  in  much  water 
and  vyere  glad  to  seek  shelter  on  a  gravel  reef,  where  three 
Esquimaux  tents  were   pitched.     The  whole  party  qu  cklv 
mustered  around  us,  and  we  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  find 
80  many  inhabitants  as  twenty-seven,  including  women  and 
children  m  three  tents  only;  but  on  inquiry  we  found  that 
the  number  was  not  greater  than  usual.     Two  of  the  men 
were  very  aged  and  feeble,  the  rest  were  young  and  actTve 
They  practise  jumping,  as  an  amusement,  from  their  youth' 
and  we  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  some  of  their  feats' 
which  displayed  much  agility.     The  women  cheerfully  re.' 

cond.l^nn';:''''''"''  ""^  ^^^''"  ^^^^^t'-^  ^«  ^^»  ^^  the  good 
^nduct  of  the  men,  were  rewarded  by  some  valuable  presents 

We  were  astonished  to  learn  that  there  had  been  foronly  a 
tKfd\^;'^'"  *^'^  neighbourhood  since  we  passed,Vut  fh^ 
!;i"?i'i^!''^.g^"r»3^  strong.  Augustus  gained  someinfor- 
».auv«  .c^pc^ung  the  western  Esquimaux,  and  the  coast  to 


4 


152 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


the  westward,  which  he  did  not  communicate  to  me  until 
some  days  afterwards,  otherwise  I  should  have  endeavoured  to 
elicit  more  satisfactory  details.    It  was  to  the  following  pur- 
port:— The  western  Esquimaux  having  purchased  the  lurs 
Lm  those  men  that  dwell  near  the  Mackenzie,  at  Barter 
Island,  proceed  to  the  westward  again  without  delay.    A  tew 
days  journey  beyond  a  part  of  the  coast  which  Augustus  un- 
derstood from  description  to  be  Return  Reef,  the  sea  is  still 
more  shallow  than  that  which  we  had  navigated,  and  the 
water  is  still,  except  at  certain  periods  of  the  year,  when  it  is 
agitated  like  a  strong  rapid,  by  the  efflux  of  the  waters  of  a 
deen  inlet,  or  strait.  The  land  is  visible  on  both  sides  from  the 
middle  of  this  opening ;  the  Esquimaux  make  for  the  west  side, 
and  on  reaching  it  relinquish  their  canoes,  and  drag  their  turs 
overland  to  the  Russian  establishments,  which  are  situated  in 
the  interior,  where  the  land  is  more  elevated  than  on  the  coast. 
The  Mountain  Indians  come  down  annually  in  large  parties  to 
this  inlet,  and  warm  contests  often  arise  between  them  and 
the  Esquimaux.  The  latter  are  frequently  worsted,  from  their 
inferior  numbers,  and  lose  their  property,  which  the  Indians 
bring  by  land  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Herschel  Island,  to  dis- 
pose of  to  the  Esquimaux  in  that  quarter.  The  direction  of  the 
inlet  was  supposed,  by  Augustus,  to  be  about  south-west.  I  am 
inclined  to  think  that  it  is  the  estuary  of  a  large  river,  flowing 
to  the  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  obstructed  by  sand-banks, 
like  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie.     In  the  course  of  the  day 
three  Esquimaux,  who  had  seen  our  tent  from  a  distance,  came 
to  visit  us.  One  of  them  was  recognised  to  have  been  of  the  par- 
ty which  attacked  us  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie.  He  gave 
Augustus  a  detailed  account  of  their  schemes  on  that  occasion, 
which  exactly  corresponded  with  that  we  had  received  on  the 
preceding  day.     He  further  told  us  that  the  party  which  had 
assailed  us  had  certainly  removed  to  the  eastward;  but  if  any 
of  them  should  have  remained,  to  watch  our  motions,  they 
could  be  avoided  by  entering  the  river  by  a  more  westerly 
branch  than  the  one  which  we  had  descended,  and  offered  to 
guide  us  thither.     This  man  was  very  intelligent,  and  having 
carefully  examined  the  boats,  intimated  that  he  would  con- 
struct an  oomiack  after  the  same  plan.    We  embarked  at  four 
in  the  evening  with  our  new  friend  for  a  guide,  and  in  a  short 
time  arrived  at  the  main  shore  where  his  tent  stood,  and  where 
he  asked  the  party  to  encamp,  as  he  intended  to  go  no  farther. 
We  were  not,  however,  so  disposed ;  and  having  filled  the 
casks  with  fresh  water,  and  made  some  presents  to  the  women, 
we  pushed  off  to  take  advantage  of  the  remaining  daylight  m 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


153 


August.] 

getting  round  a  reef  which  projected  far  to  seaward.  We  could 
not  effect  this,  and  at  sunset,  not  being  able  to  land  on  the 
reef  on  account  of  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  we  put  back 
to  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  Esquimaux  tents.     Garry 
Island  was  seen  soon  after  sunset;  and  the  aurora  borealis  ap- 
peared  in  the  night  for  the  first  time  this  season.    The  tempe- 
rature  of  the  air  varied  from  30°  to  49°,  and  that  of  the  sea 
water  was  37°  2',  a  (juarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.    A  eale 
corning  on  in  the  night,  and  continuing  till  the 
following  evening,  detained  us  on  shore.  During  Tuesday,  29th. 
our  stay  we  were  visited  by  a  numerous  party  6f  Esquimaux, 
and  found  it  necessary  to  draw  a  line  round  the  tents,  which 
they  were  not  permitted  to  pass.  These  people  told  us  that  Dr. 
Richardson's  party  had  been  seen  clear  of  tL  Mackenzie,  and 
had  g,ven  kettles  to  men  in  three  canoes,  after  escaping  an 
attempt  made  by  the  Esquimaux  to  drag  the  boats  on  shore. 
Ihis  account  showing  that  the  propensity  to  plunder  was  not 
contined  to  the  Esquimaux  with  whom  we  had  met,  excited 
painful  apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  the  eastern  party,  if  they 
should  find  it  necessary  to  return  by  the  Mackenzie,  because  we 
now  learned  that  the  natives  collect  in  numbers  near  its  mouth 
at  the  close  of  summer.     In  ordinary  seasons  the  weather  is 
mild,  and  the  winds  variable  until  the  ice  breaks  up,  which  is 
usu%  about  the  end  of  August,  when  north-west  winds,  and 
stormy  weather,  are  expected.     In  this  season,  however,  the 
winds  had  been  so  boisterous  that  the  Esquimaux  had  seldom 
been  able  to  venture  out  to  sea,  and  their  whale  fishery  had 
consequently  failed.     Our  visitors  left  us  about  two  p.m.-  but 
shortly  afterwards,  we  heard  loud  cries,  and  on  looking  round 
saw  two  young  Esquimaux  running  in  breathless  haste  to  an- 
nounce that  a  large  party  of  Indians  had  come  down  from  the 
mountains  with  the  express  purpose  of  attacking  the  boats  and 
killing  every  man  of  the  party.     They  desired  us  to  embark 
mstantly,  as  the  only  means  of  escape ;  for  the  Indians,  they 
said,  were  already  at  the  tents  within  our  view,  and  when  they 
left  them  they  were  on  the  point  of  spreading  round  us  to  com- 
mence the  onset.     They  further  said,  that  the  Indians,  having 
been  provoked  by  our  trading  with  the  Esquimaux,  had  been 
along  the  coast  m  search  of  «s,  and  that  it  was  only  this  after- 
noon  they  had  espied  our  tents,  which,  by  the  fluttering  in  the 
wind,  they  knew  did  not  belong  to  the  Esquimaux.     On  this 
discovery  they  had  come  to  the  nearest  party  of  Esquimaux  to 
make  known  their  intention,  and  to  request  their  aid    They 
were  met  by  our  two  young  friends,  who  were  out  hunting,  but 
who  returned  with  them  to  their  tents,  and  after  learning  the 

20  "" 


m 


154 


SECOND  JOL'IINEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


i: 

I 


plans  in  acitation,  had  stolen  off  to  apprize  us  of  our  danger. 
Coon  as^Spinks  returned,  >vho  had  gone  to  shoot  we  shoved 
off;  and  never  were  men  more  del.ghted  than  our  two  Ksqu.. 
maux  friends  seemed  to  be  at  our  escape ;  and  especially  at  that 
of  AuL'ustus  to  save  whom,  they  asserted  more  than  once,  was 
thir%  cipa?  "otivein  coming  to  us      While  Spinks  was  o« 
of  sisht,  they  climbed  up  to  the  top  of  an  old  house  to  look  for 
him,  with  the  greatest  apparent  solicitude,  and  were  the  first  to 
discover  him  returning.  ' Up  to  the  time  of  his  arnval  they 
kept  repeating  every  particular  respectmg  the  Indians,  and 
pofnting^out  tL  moie  of  avoiding  them      It  was  their  inten- 
tion they  said,  to  pursue  us  to  the  Mackenzie,  but  that  we 
shou'ld  get  there  before  them,  because  there  were  two  nvers 
in  the  way  which  the  Indians  would   have  great  difhculty 
in  crossing,  being  unprovided  with  canoes,     fhey  urged  us 
to  make  all  speed,  and  not  to  halt  in  the  night,  nor  to  go  to 
sleep;  but,  if  the  crew  became  tired,  to  put  up  on  an  island 
out  of  gun-shot  of  the  main  shore,  because  the  Indians  were 
armed  with  guns  as  well  as  bows.     They  instructed  Augustus 
minutely  as  to  the  course  we  were  to  steer  round  the  reef,  and 
directed  us  to  keep  along  the  main  shore  until  we  shou'dcome 
to  a  large  opening,  which  was  the  western  outlet  of  the  Mac 
kenzie,  and  had  a  deep  channel.     We  rewarded  their  friendly 
conduct  by  a  considerable  present  of  iron,  which  they  received 
with  an  indifference  that  showed  them  not  to  have  been  actua- 
ted by  interested  motives  in  making  the  communications.  1  re- 
vious  to  the  arrival  of  these  men  we  had  perceived  the  snioke 
of  a  distant  fire,  which  we  had  little  regarded,  supposing  it  to 
have  been  made  by  some  Esquimaux  who  were  hunting,  but 
which,  it  seems,  was  the  fire  of  the  Indians.     Having  pulled 
round  the  reef,  and  being  aided  by  a  westerly  breeze,  we  soon 
regained  the  main  shore,  and  passed  the  mouth  of  the  two  rivers 
of^which  the  Esquimaux  had  spoken.     The  night  beginning 
to  close  in  we  pulled  up  to  the  head  of  an  inlet;  when  heavy 
rain  and  squalls  coming  on,  we  determined  to 
Wednesday,  30th.  |^^jj._     ^g  g^^,^  ^^  ([^q  (jgy  dawned,  which  was 

about  half-past  two  in  the  morning,  we  returned  to  Shoal  Water 
Bay;  and,  sailing  along  the  coast  for  two  or  three  miles  to  the 
eastward,  arrived  at  another  opening,  in  which  the  water  was 
fresh  and  we  did  not  doubt  but  it  would  prove  the  deep  channel 
by  which  we  had  been  instructed  to  ascend.  There  was  plen- 
ty of  water  near  its  mouth,  but  it  gradually  shoaled  ;  and,  at 
the  distance  of  four  miles,  we  ascertained  that  this  promising 
opening  was  likewise  an  inlet.  I  now  relinquished  the  search 
fo..  o  jy,oro  w^Qferlv  nutlot  than  the  one  by  which  we  had  de- 
scended, and,  therefore,  steered  for  Pillage  Point,  which  soon 


[1826. 

mr  danger. 
we  shoved 
two  Esqui- 
ally  at  that 
1  once,  was 
iks  was  out 
to  look  for 
}  the  first  to 
rrival  they 
idians,  and 
their  inten- 
ut  that  we 
two  rivers 
it  difficulty 
ty  urged  us 
)r  to  go  to 
)n  an  island 
ndians  were 
;d  Augustus 
he  reef,  and 
should  come 
>f  the  Mac 
leir  friendly 
ley  received 
been  actua- 
ations.  Pre- 
d  the  smoke 
Dposing  it  to 
lunting,  but 
iving  pulled 
!ze,  we  soon 
le  two  rivers 
lit  beginning 
when  heavy 
termined  to 
1,  which  was 
Shoal  Water 
miles  to  the 
e  water  was 
leep  channel 
re  was  plen- 
jed ;  and,  at 
lis  promising 
d  the  search 
we  had  de- 
which  soon 


OF  TIIK  POLAR  SKA. 


na 


August.] 

afterwards  came  in  sight.  After  dragging  the  boats  for  two 
hours,  over  the  shoals,  we  rounded  Pillage  Point  at  ten  a.m., 
and  reached  the  deep  water  most  opportunely ;  for,  almost  at 
the  instant,  a  violent  north-west  gale  came  'on,  attended  by 
thunder,  lightning,  and  torrents  of  rain.  The  wind,  however, 
was  fair,  and  brought  so  much  water  into  the  channel  of  the 
river,  that  we  passed,  without  obstruction,  the  shallow  parts 
above  Pillage  Point.  A  temporary  cessation  of  the  rain  at 
noon  enabled  us  to  land  to  breakfast ;  and  we  afterwards  con- 
tinued to  scud  before  the  gale  until  sunset,  when  we  encamp, 
ed.  The  temperature  fell  from  48°  to  40°  in  the  gale,  and  we 
had  several  showers  of  snow. 

During  the  above  run  Augustus  entertained  us  with  an  ac- 
count, which  he  had  learned  from  the  two  Esquimaux,  re- 
specting the  Mountain  Indians;  the  substance  was  as  follows: 
—Seven  ntien  of  that  tribe  had  been  to  Herschel  Island  to  trade 
with  the  Esquimaux,  who  showed  them  the  diiferent  articles 
they  had  received  from  us,  and  informed  them  of  our  being 
still  on  the  coast,  and  that  our  return  by  this  route  was  not 
improbable.  This  intelligence  they  set  off  at  once  to  commu- 
nicate to  the  rest  of  their  tribe,  who,  supposing  that  we  should 
ruin  their  trade  with  the  Esquimaux,  resolved  on  coming  down 
in  a  body  to  destroy  us ;  and  that  they  might  travel  with  ex- 
pedition, their  wives  and  families  were  left  behind.  They 
came  to  the  sea  coast  by  the  Mountain  Indian  River,  opposite 
Herschel  Island,  and  finding  that  we  had  not  returned,  but  sup- 
posing it  possible  that  we  might  pass  them  there,  as  they  had 
no  canoes  to  intercept  us,  they  determined  on  travelling  to  the 
naouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  where  they  could  conveniently  sub- 
sist by  fishing  and  hunting  until  our  arrival.  They  had  been 
informed  of  the  manner  in  which  we  had  been  robbed  by  the 
Esquimaux  at  that  place,  and  they  formed  a  similar  plan  of 
operations.  When  our  crews  were  wading  and  launching  the 
boats  over  the  flats  in  Shoal  Writer  Bay,  a  few  of  them  were 
to  have  offered  their  assistance,  which  they  imagined  would  be 
readily  accepted,  as  we  should  f  robably  take  them  for  Indians 
belonging  to  the  Loucheux  trii>e,  with  whom  we  were  ac- 
quainted. While  pretending  to  aid  us  they  were  to  have 
watched  an  opportunity  of  staving  the  boats,  so  as  to  prevent 
them  from  floating  in  the  deeper  channel,  which  runs  close  to 
the  land  near  Pillage  Point.  The  rest  of  the  party,  on  a  signal 
being  given,  were  then  to  rush  forth  from  their  concealment, 
and  join  in  the  assault.  They  were,  in  pursuance  of  this  plan, 
travelling  towards  the  Mackenzie,  when  they  discovered  our 
tents;  and  it  appeared  that  the  two  young  men  who  brought 


i 


156 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


US  the  intelligence,  had  been  sent  as  an  act  of  gratitude  by  an 
old  Esquimaux,  to  whom  we  had  given  a  knife  and  some  other 
things,  on  the  preceding  day.     After  hearing  the  plans  of  the 
Indians,  he  called  the  young  men  aside  and  said  to  them, 
"  These  white  people  have  been  kind  to  us,  and  they  are  few 
in  number,  why  should  we  suffer  them  to  be  killed  ?  you  are 
active  young  men,  run  and  tell  them  to  depart  instantly.  The 
messengers  suggested  that  we  had  guns,  and  could  defend  our- 
selves.    "  True,"  said  he,  "  against  ai  small  force,  but  not 
against  so  large  a  body  of  Indians  as  thii,  who  are  likewise 
armed  with  guns,  and  who  will  crawl  uncer  cover  of  the  drift 
timber,  so  as  to  surround  them  before  they  are  aware ;  run, 
therefore,  and  tell  them  not  to  lose  a  moment  in  getting  away, 
and  to  be  careful  to  avoid  the  flats  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  by 
entering  the  western  channel." 

As  the  goods  which  the  Mountain  Indians  exchange  with  the 
Esquimaux  at  Herschel  Island,  are  very  unlike  those  issued 
from  any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts,  I  conclude 
that  they  obtain  them  from  the  Russians  ;  but  the  traders  of  that 
nation  being  prohibited  by  their  government  from  supplying 
guns  to  any  Indians,  I  am  at  a  loss  to  account  for  these  people 
having  them; — perhaps,  the  prohibition  only  applies  to  the  Es- 
quimaux, or  the  people  on  the  sea  coast.  That  the  Mountain 
Indians  have  fire-arms  we  learned,  not  only  on  the  present  oc- 
casion, but  in  our  first  interview  with  the  Esquimaux,  at  Hers- 
chel Island. 

The  few  general  remarks  which  I  have  to  offer,  on  the  sub- 
ject of  a  North- West  Passage,  will  appear  in  a  subsequent  part 
of  the  narrative ;  and  here  I  shall  only  state,  that  we  traced 
the  coast,  westward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  three 
hundred  and  seventy-four  miles,  without  having  found  one 
harbour  in  which  a  ship  could  find  shelter. 

On  the  31st,  we  continued  the  ascent  of  the 
Thursday,  31st.  ^.j^^j.^  ^^^  encamped  in  the  evening  within  the 

limit  of  the  spruce  fir  trees. 

Favoured  by  a  strong  north-west  gale,  on 
September  1st.     ^^^  j^^.  ^^  September,  we  sailed  the  whole  day 

along  the  western  main  shore,  and,  generally,  within  view  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  One  of  the  numerous  bends  of  the 
river  took  us  within  eight  miles'of  part  of  the  mountains,  which 
appeared  to  be  composed  of  a  yellow  stone,  and  was  from 
eight  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet  in  height.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  we  came  to  the  most  northerly  poplars,  where  the  fo- 
liage had  now  assumed  the  yellow  autumnal  hue.     The  gale 


[1826. 

ide  by  an 
ame  other 
,n8  of  the 
to  thero, 
y  are  few 
f  you  are 
iitly.  The 
jfend  our- 
,  but  not 
I  likewise 
.f  the  drift 
are;  run, 
ting  away, 
le  river  by 

;e  with  the 
3se  issued 

conclude 
lersofthat 

supplying 
ese  people 
I  to  the  Es- 

Mountain 
)resent  oc- 
x,  at  Hers- 

)n  the  sub- 
iquent  part 
we  traced 
nzie,  three 
found  one 

cent  of  the 
within  the 

3t  gale,  on 
whole  day 
lin  view  of 
jnds  of  the 
ains,  which 
,  was  from 
e  course  of 
lere  the  fo- 
The  gale 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


157 


September.] 

continued  with  strong  squalls  on  the  2nd,  and 
we  advanced  rapidly  under  double-reefed  sails      Saturday,  2nd. 
though  the  course  of  the  river  was  very  winding.     The  tem- 
perature of  the  air  varied  from  4 1  °  to  35°.     On  the  third  we 
had  calm  weather,  and  still  keeping  the  western  land  abl^d 

de^c^nr  ^Thf;  '  "-^,-'-hi;e'had  not  discovered  in"'; 
descent.     1  he  course  of  this  river,  was,  for  a  time  Darallpl  in 

ScSr-tuT  in'-S'  'V'  "''  '^'  ""^  °f  *•=  ZSTi^ 
iuacKenzie,  but,  m  the  afternoon,  we  saw  a  mountain  to  the 

IW  slrf-  ^''^t'^^'i  '^''  ^^  "^••^  to  the  SoXard  of 
'.ain  anHnr-     ^T'v'^^r^"?'  ^^^an  to  descend  the  river 
again,  and  encamped  shortly  after  sunset.     Just 
alter  it  became  dark,  voices  were  heard  on  the    Sunday,  3rd. 
S'*?h'"^^  i^}^  "^^'''  *°  ^^'^^  ^^  '•eplied,  and  soon  after- 

canoes      They  approached  cautiously,  but  on  being  invited  to 
land,  they  did  so,  though  one  of  them  was  so  great^  a  cripple 

Thp^r^"';:^  ^''"S  "''"""I  ^'"""^  ^^^  ^^"°^  to  the  fire-sMe! 
The  alarm  these  poor  people  had  felt,  was  soon  dissipated  by 

only,  and  clothed  m  hair  skins  and  leather.  Their  trowsers 
were  similar  to  tho^  ,,  ^y  the  lower  Loucheux   to  whTch 

^1  n T  r^^^^^'  ^"'^"8^^-  ^^  ^^"'^  communicate  with 
whTh  o/.  ^rT'  ^'^^^Ptl>y"«i»gafew  words  of  Chipewyan, 
which  one  of  them  appeared  to  understand.  We  collected 
from  them  that  they  knew  of  Fort  Good  Hope,  but  none  of 
them  seemed  to  have  visited  it,  as  they  had  not  a  single  article 
of  European  manufacture  about  their  persons.  They  deli! 
neated  on  a  stone  the  course  of  tho  Mackenzie,  and  of  the 
river  we  had  newly  discovered,  which  appears  to  flow  from 

m  fhs^l  ^""^'"^•'  'f  *"  ^'T^  through  the  same  rTdgeTf 
h.11  that  the  Mackenzie  does  at  the  Narrows.     It  is  probable 
that  I   was  to  this  river  the  Loucheux  alluded,  when  they  told 
Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  opposite  the  present  site  of  Fort 
Good  Hope  that  there  was  a  river  which  conducted  them  to 
the  sea  m  five  days.     I  have  distinguished  this  river  by  the 
name  of  Peel,  ,n  honour  of  His  Majesty's  Secretary  of  State 
for  the  Home  Department.     It  is  frim  a  quarter  to  half  a  mi  e 
wide,  and  ,  s  banks  are  clothed  with  spruce,  birch,  and  Donlar 
tree.,  like  those  of  the  Mackenzie  in  the  same  pa  aUel^   We 
set  forward  at  four  a.m.  on  the  4th,  with  a  strong 
tavourable  breeze,  and  in  an  hour,  passed  anothe?  Monday,  4th. 


favourable  breeze,  and  in  an  hour,  passed  anothe?  •"  -' 

laral  nffh^'iJ^^''^"!  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  nearly  , 
large  as  the  Peel,  mto  which  it  flowc     w i-.j-^^i 

Mackenzie  at  noon,  and  at  fiv.  "p." arrived  at  Pof.rsTpara- 


as 
he 


P.M. 


SECOND  JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182C. 


ke    e'^a  "r^reTt  acquisitio..  to  u,,  because  »e  had  suffe  ed 

,„g,  the  sand  il.e^  ^^  ^^^  ,^^_  ^.1"^ 

Tu»doy,5tli.      ,u    '  jver  to  look  for  a  itlark  which  Ur.  uicn- 
ardson  was  to  have  erected  if  he  returned^by  the  Mackenz.e, 

:i^tr:^o:7he^^hoXreV;%^^^^^^^^^^ 

^hi^Is  li  y  should  be  in  want  of  prov,8K>D  In  the  v.- 
,  i^itv  of  the  Red  River,  we  met  Barhne,  the  Chief  of  the  Lou- 
c"eux  and  tvvo  or  three  families,  who  seemed  u,  a  sorry  con- 
i^on  from  want  of  food,  the  water  bemg  too  1"" J^"' / »'""?: 
The  chief  appeared  very  anxious  to  communj^.ate  some  m,e  , 
eence  which  he  evidently  considered  ™P»/'»' ';.''"' ''''.'i,,;, 
fot  u  derstand  him.  We'learned  afterwards  at  he  ort,  h 

w  1  ♦«  tha  rlpifh  of  a  ch  e  by  violence  on  the  sea  coast, 
Ihfhad.ivt'iet'o  a  humour  ol^the  death  of  myself,  and  af- 
e  wards  "f  Dr.  Richardson,  which  occasioned  us  for  a  t.me 
miirh  anxiety.  The  weather,  on  this  and  several  days,  was 
Zarkably  fi^ne;  berries  of  various  kinds  were  very  abundant 
Tthe  balL,  a'nd  quite  ripe  By  the  aid  of  the  ^^^f^^l'^^^ 
with  the  occasional  use  of  the  oars  and  sa^s,  ^e  proceeded  up 
the  river  at  a  quick  rate,  and  reached  Fort  Good  Hope,  at 

Thursday,  7th.     above-mentioned  rumour,  I  requested  Mr.  Bell, 

pive  resardine  Ur.  nicnaruson  s  pan-j  '  ^,  '  ,,  t  ,  r^  l  _ 
I  rs  mi>  no^t  be  delayed  b^^-^Terorf/tSn  thl\  th'^^^ 
tlToZTjl'^^^oi  aTerirVarr^el  arising  between 
Te  urer  and  lower  Loucheux,  in  consequence  of  one  of  Bar- 

bue'^Tns  havinTkilled  his  wife,  a  woman  of  the  latter  tr.be. 
bue  s  sons         ^^    ^^^^^  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^  „  the  8th 

Friday,  8th.     ^^rived  at  the  entrance  of  Bear  Lake  River  on  the 

ifith    and  on  the   21st  reached   Fort  Franklin,   where  we 
16th,  and  on  ^the   2^^  ^^  ^^^^.^^  ^    ^^s  m 

Thursday,  2l8t.       r  .        The  eastern  detachment  had  arrivea 

^dieiy.  ^         ^^ ^^  c.,rrpc«fiil  vovaee;  and 

on  the  Istoi  bepiemoer,  uiLci  ^'""^'^  :"•-"-:;"  ^.^nmcal  re- 
Dr.  Richardson  being  anxious  to  extend  his  geological 


[182G. 

ope,  and 
;m.  The 
suffered 
after  the 
perature 
le  even- 

our  en- 
1  crossed 
)r.  Rich- 
ickenzie ; 
1   bag  of 
riod,  and 
n  the  vi- 
the  Lou- 
orry  con- 
>r  fishing. 
Tie  intelli- 
we  could 
ort,  that  it 
,ea  coast; 
If,  and  af- 
br  a  time, 
days,  was 

abundant 
:king  Une, 
ceeded  up 
1  Hope,  at 
;nce  of  the 
[  Mr.  Bell, 
wo  of  the 
Lith  of  the 
aux  could 
hie  messen- 
l  left  a  bag 
I  that  there 
g  between 
one  of  Bar- 
atter  tribe, 
on  the  8th, 
Liver  on  the 
where  we 

friends  in 
lad  arrived 
oyaee;  and 
jiogical  re- 


Scplcnibcr.] 


OF  THE  roi,AR  SEA. 


159 


searches,  as  far  as  the  season  wookl  permit,  had  gone  in  a 
canoe  to  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  having  previously  sent  a  re- 
port of  his  proceedings,  to  meet  me  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  in 
case  of  our  being  obliged  to  return  by  the  Mackenzie;  but  the 
bearer  of  them  passed  us  without  being  seen.  Having  read 
Mr.  Kendall's  journal,  I  drew  up  a  brief  account  of  the  pro- 
ceedings of  both  parties  for  the  information  of  His  Majesty's 
Government,  and  transmitted  it  by  canoe,  to  Slave  Lake  on 
the  following  morning. 

The  distance  travelled  in  the  three  months  of  our  absence 
from  Fort  Franklin,  amounted  to  two  thousand  and  forty-eight 
statute  nailes,  of  which  six  hundred  and  ten  were  through  parts 
not  previously  discovered. 

I  cannot  close  this  account  of  our  sea  voyage  without  ex- 
pressing the  deep  obligation  I  feel  to  Lieutenant  Back  for  his 
cordial  co-operation,  and  for  his  zealous  and  unwearied  assi- 
duity during  its  progress.  Beside  the  daily  delineation  of  the 
coast  in  the  field  book,  the  service  is  indebted  to  him  for  nu- 
merous drawings  of  scenery,  as  well  as  of  the  natives;  and  for 
an  interesting  collection  of  plants.  My  warmest  thanks  are 
likewise  due  to  the  men  of  my  party,  who  met  every  obstacle 
with  an  ardent  desire  to  surmount  it,  and  cheerfully  exerted 
themselves  to  the  utmost  of  their  power.  Their  cool,  steady- 
conduct  is  the  more  commendable,  as  the  sea  navigation  was 
entirely  novel  to  the  whole,  except  the  seamen  Duncan  and 
Spinks,  and  Hallom,  the  corporal  of  Marines.  The  Cana- 
dian voyagers,  Felix  and  Vivier,  first  saw  the  ocean  on  this 
occasion. 

The  following  Chapters  contain  the  narrative  of  the  pro- 
ceedings of  Dr.  Richardson  in  his  own  words ;  and  I  embrace 
this  opportunity  of  conveying  my  sincere  thanks  to  him,  to  Mr. 
Kendall,  and  to  their  respective  crews.  I  may  be  allowed  to 
bear  my  testimony  to  the  union  of  caution,  talent,  and  enter- 
prise in  the  former,  which  enabled  him  to  conduct,  with  sin- 
gular success,  an  arduous  service  of  a  kind  so  foreign  from  his 
profession  and  ordinary  pursuits ;  and  to  the  science  and  skill, 
combined  with  activity,  of  Mr.  (now  Lieutenant)  Kendall, 
which  must  heighten  the  character  he  has  already  obtained  for 
general  ability  and  energy  in  his  profession.  I  must  not  omit 
to  state,  that  these  officers  describe  the  conduct  of  their  crews 
to  have  been  excellent. 


■-'■ym 


160 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


ABSTRACT  of  the  Mean  Temperature  for  each  Day  during  the  Voyage  along 
the  Sea  Coast  wett  of  the  Mackemsic  and  on  the  return  to  Bear  Lake. 


1826. 
Date. 


Daily  Mean 


July. 
1 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 

9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

Mean 


52.8 
58.3 
50.3 
55.8 
53.7 
45.  1 
41.6 

2a 


.a  ® 
y'tca 

*"  J3 

IZ^ 
51. 
53. 
50. 
48. 
47. 
44. 
43. 
43. 
39. 
51. 
58. 
51. 
45. 
42. 
44. 
41. 
43 
41 
40 
42 


Wind  and  Weather. 


a  S 
».5 

OB   on 

6 

3 

5 

6 
.3 
.8 
.6 
.4 
.3 
,3 
,  5 
.6 
.6 
.0 
.3 
,4 
.2 
.6 
.3 
.7 


NNW,  WNW,  moderate,  gloomy 

West,  fresh,  clear 

WNW,  fresh,  clear 

West,  SSW,  N,  light,  gloomy  , 

SW,  NE.  moderate,  gloomy»|faggy 

NNW,  ENE.  fresh,  moderate,  rain 

SE,  moderate,  clear 


ENE,  strong,  fog  and  rain 


Situation. 


47.61 


Aug. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 


42.0 
44.6 
44.1 
40.7 
42.6 
43.2 
42.8 
42.9 
41.6 


EbyN.  fresh,  gloomy 

Variable,  fog  and  rain 

Calm,  rain,  ENE,  moderate,  clear 

Calm,  clear,  NW,  moderate,  foggy 

SSE,  moderate,  snow,  fog 

NW,  North,  moderate,  hazy 

NW,  moderate,  clear 

NW,  moderate,  heavy  rain  and  fog 

NW,  fresh,  fog 

East,  SE,  clear 

SE,  light,  clear 

West,  calm.  East,  clear 

Calm,  variable,  clear 

West,  light,  cahn,  foggy 

Calm,  KW,  fog 

West,  NW,  moderate,  fog 

ENE,  light,  gloomy 

ENE,  strong,  misty 

ENE,  fresh,  moderate,  clear 

NE,  moderate,  clear,  fresh  end  foggy 


Fort  Good  Hope. 
Mackenzie  Ri- 
ver, betwn.lat. 
67°  28',  &  60° 
^53'  N.,  longi- 
tudtt  130i°  & 
136i°  W. 
'Mouth    of  the 
Mackenzie. 


Between  the 
Mackenzie  Si 
Herschel  Isld. 
^lat.  68°  53*  & 
&fi  34'  N., 
long.  136°  'i9' 
&139°  5'  W. 

Herschel  Island. 

I  o  'V 


05 


s 


53  O    ,-< 
V  »   ®   3 


39, 
41, 
41 
41 

4J 


5 
1 
1 
6 
J 


31;.  1 


NE,  gale,  foggy 

ENE,  strong,  moderate,  clear 

ENE,  moderate,  cl6ar 

East,  moderate,  clear 

Calm,  WbyN,  moderate 

Calm,  ESE,  light,  clear 

ENE,  fresh,  clear 

ENE,  strong,  fog 

NE,  strong,  fog 

ENE,  strong,  fog 

NE,  moderate,  fog 

East,  moderate,  very  foggy 

NE.  strong,  foggy 

EWE,  Ne,  moderate,  foggy 

NE,  fresh,  hazy  


">  Between  Icy 
Reef  &  Flax- 
man's  Island, 
lat.  69°  44'  & 
70°  11'  N., 
long.  141°  30' 
&145°50'W. 


Foggy  Islan*?. 
lat.  70°  16' 
N.  bngiUide 
147°  38'  W. 


[1826. 


oyage  along 
•  Lake. 


aation. 


oodHope. 
ikenzie  Ri- 
betwn.  lat. 
28',  &  60° 
N.,  longi- 
i  ISOi'^  & 
i°  W.  1 
h  of  the 
.ckenzie. 

ween  the 
ckenzie  & 
rschel  Isld. 

6a°  sy  & 

34'  N., 
g.  136"  'i9' 
39°  5'  W. 

shel  Island. 

^  to 
%  a> 


"-0 

S    4^ 

its 

eS  O    r-l 


1826.J 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


3^;2: 


tween  Icy 
eef&Flax- 
an's  Island, 
t.  69°  44'  & 
)°  11'  N., 
ng.l41°3(y 
145°  sew. 


)gffy  Islanr?, 
at.  70°  16' 
f.  longitude 
47°  38'  \V. 


161 


'^^^the^slaC.fJ^'  ^^J^P^raturefor  each  Day  during  the  Voyage  along 
the  Sea  Coast  west  of  the  Mackenzie,  and  on  the  return  to  Bear  Lake. 


1826. 
Date. 


Aug, 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 

22 

23 

24 

26 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

Mean 


Sept, 
1 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

Mean 


Daily  Mean 


o 

35.0 
37.4 
36.2 
36.4 
36.4 
35.7 
37.6 
41.0 
39.4 
41.2 
39.6 
39.8 
43.0 
52.6 
45.6 
42.4 


38.3 

38.6 

41.1 

41.3 

45.9 

51 .0 

44.8 

41.0 

39.3 

45.8 

45.8 

37.3 

37.2 

37.9 

42.7 

44.5 

36.9 

29.4 

24.6 

29.2 

31.1 

39.22 


Wind  and  Weather. 


40.85 


ENE,  fresh,  foggy 

NE,  gale,  very  ioggy 

NE,  strong,  clear 

NE,ttrong,  foggy 

NE,  fresh,  foggy 

NNE,  North,  moderate,  clear 

North,  NE,  light,  clear 

Calm,  clear 

Calm,  clear,  foggy  in  the  night 

wife^M^'x?^?'  "^''''  ^SE,  strong 

S^^^'ii^-  heavy  gale,snow,8leet. 

Calm,  ESE,  light,  clear 

SW,  strong,  clear 

SSW,  heavy  gale 

NW,  Heavy  gale,  rain 

Calm,  SE,  gloomy 


Situation. 


J  Return  Reef, 
>  lat.  70°  26'  N. 
}Ig.  14a°52'W. 

Foggy  Island. 

oo  o  'a  la  CO 
^  e  "W  K.  >• 


W ' 

>  Mackenzie 
jRi\    I. 


NW,  gale,  snow 

NW,  strong,  clear 

Calm,  moderate,  SE,  clear 

SE,  NW,  moderate,  clear 

SE,  light,  clear 

Variable,  light,  clear 

SE,  light,  NW.  strong 

NW,  strong,  snow 

East,  moderate,  clear 

SE,  light,  clear 

NW.  moderate,  rain 

NW,  moderate,  gloomy 

Calm,  SE,  light,  clear 

ESE,  moderate,  clear 

Calm,  moderate,  fresh,  gloomy 

Variable,  light,  gloomy 

Variable,  moderate,  rain 

NW,  fresh,  gloomy 

NW,  moderate,  gloomy 

ESE,  fresh,  clear 

ENE,  fresh,  clear 


Mackenzie 
River. 


Fort  Franklin. 


^''inm^^iTttvZii^'r^  '"  this  register,  was  compared  with  those 
Sde  wUh  tW^'''^  '^"'"S  ^-  ^-y^  ^^ft^'  0-  -turn,  and  found  to 


21 


m 


iii^^ 


163 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


DE.  RICHARDSON'S   NARRATIVE 


OF  THE  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  EASTERN  DETACHMENT 

OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  I.  ;. 

Leave  Point  Separation  and  descend  the  ^^^^^"^Z^^lT^^^l 
"^  ^Arrive  at  Sacred  Island-Esquimaux  p;^^;°^^-„^"\",^^^^^^^       Uie  Union 

Ftopped^y  Joe  at  Point  Toker-Reach  the  Sea. 

The  two  parties  of  which  the  Expedition  was 
J»^y  ^^-        composed,  having  spent  the  evening  of  the  3rd  ot 
July  in  cheerful  c'onversation  about  tjjeir  future  Pr^^^^^^^^^^ 
oared  to  separate  on  the  morning  of  the  4th.  By  six  o  ciocK  au 
the  boate  were  stowed ;  and  Captain  Franklin,  Lieutenant  Back, 
and  their^arty^^^^     committed  themselves  to  the  stream  m  the 
Lbn  anSCance ;  while  the  Eastern  D/ach-ent  dmwn  up 
on  the  beach,  cheered  them  on  their  departure  with  three 
heart'huzzas    The  voices  of  our  friends  were  heard  in  reply 
S  the  current  had  carried  their  boats  round  a  projecting 
no  nt  of  land,  when  wc  also  embarked  to  proceed  on  our  vo>. 
r  Our  detachment  was  composed  of  twelve  individuals, 
distributed  in  two  boats,  named  the  Dolphin  and  Union. 


IN  THE  DOLPHIN. 

Dr.  Richardson. 
Thomas  Gillet,  Coxswain. 
John  M'Lellan,  Boioman. 
Shadrach  Tysoo,  Marine. 
Thomas  Fuller,  Carpenter. 
Ooligbuck,  Esquimaux. 


IN  THE  UNION. 

Mr.  Kendall. 
John  M'Leay,  Coxswain. 
George  Munroe,  Bowman. 
William  Money,  Marine. 
John  M'Duffey. 
George  HarknesB. 


The  instructions  we  received  were,  to  trace  the  coast  be- 
tween the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Pvivers,  and  to  return 


[1826. 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


163 


VE 

^CHMENT 


,e  Mackenzie 
with  the  Na- 
of  the  Union 
It — Mirage — 


'dition  was 
the  3rd  of 
spects,  pre- 
o'clock  all 
*.nant  Back, 
ream  in  the 
t,  drawn  up 
with  three 
ird  in  reply 
1  projecting 
on  our  voy- 
individuals, 
Jnion. 

ION. 


tswain. 

Bowman. 

Marine. 


the  coast  be- 
md  to  return 


from  the  latter  overland  to  Great  Bear  Lake.  Ice  was  the  only 
impediment  we  dreaded  as  likely  to  prove  an  obstacle  to  the 
execution  of  these  orders.  We  knew  that  the  direct  distance 
between  the  two  rivers  did  not  amount  to  five  hundred  miles ; 
and,  having  provisions  for  upwards  of  eighty  days  stowed  in 
the  boats,  we  were  determined  not  to  aband#h  the  enterprize 
on  light  grounds,  especially  after  we  had  seen  the  friends  that 
had  just  parted  from  us  embark  with  so  much  cheerfulness  in 
their  moie  arduous  undertaking. 

On  leaving  Point  Separation  we  pulled,  for  two  hours, 
against  the  current,  to  regain  the  entrance  of  the  "  Middle 
Channel,"  which  was  first  explored  by  Mackenzie,  on  his  way 
to  the  sea,  in  1798,  and  more  perfectly  surveyed  by  Captain 
Franklin,  on  his  voyage  to  Garry's  Island,  last  autumn.   It  has 
a  breadth  of  nearly  a  mile,  and  a  depth  of  from  three  to  five 
fathoms ;  though  in  one  place,  where  there  was  a  ripple,  the 
sounding  lead  struck  against  a  flat  bed  of  stone  in  nine  feet 
water.   Having  proceeded  about  ten  miles  in  this  channel,  we 
entered  a  branch  flowing  to  the  eastward,  with  the  view  of 
tracing  the  course  of  the  main  land.  Mackenzie,  on  his  return 
from  the  sea  by  this  route,  observed  many  trees  having  their 
upper  branches  lopped  off"  by  the  Esquimaux,  and  we  saw  se- 
veral such  trees  in  the  course  of  the  day.     The  lands  are  low 
and  marshy,  and  inclose  small  lakes  which  are  skirted  by  wil- 
lows.   The  summits  of  the  banks  are  loaded  with  drift-timber, 
showing  that  they  are  all  inundated  by  the  spring  floods,  ex- 
cept a  few  sandy  ridges  which  bound  the  principal  channels, 
and  which  are  clothed  with  well-grown  white  spruce  trees, 
Our  voyage  amongst  these  uninteresting  flats  was  greatly  en- 
livened by  the  busy  flight  and  cheerful  twittering  of  the  sand- 
martins,  which  had  scooped  out  thousands  of  nests  in  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  we  witnessed  with  pleasure  their  activity  in 
thinning  the  lanks  of  our  most  tormenting  foes  the  musquitoes. 
When  our  precursor.  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  passed  through 
these  channels  on  the  10th  of  July,  1789,  they  were  bounded 
by  walls  of  ice  veined  with  black  earth,  but  the  present  season 
was  so  much  milder,  that  the  surface  of  the  banks  was  every 
where  thawed. 

An  hour  before  noon  we  put  ashore  to  cook  our  breakfast, 
near  a  clump  of  spruce  trees,  where  several  fires  had  recently 
been  made  by  a  party  which  had  left  many  foot-prints  on  the 
sand ;  probably  a  horde  of  Esquimaux,  on  their  return  from 
trading  with  the  Indians  at  the  Narrows.  A  thunder  storm 
that  obscured  the  sky,  prevented  Mr.  Kendall  from  ascertain- 
ing the  latitude  at  noon,  which  was  the  hour  we  chose  tor 


ii 


m 


,0  */;f 


m 


164 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


breakfast  throughout  the  voyage,  in  order  to  economize  time, 
as  it  was  necessary  to  land  to  obtain  the  meridian  observation 
of  the  sun.  In  the  afternoon  we  continued  to  descend  the  same 
channel,  which  has  a  smooth  and  moderately  rapid  current, 
and  a  general  depth  o(  two  or  three  fathoms.  At  four  p.m.  we 
obtained  a  view  of  a  ridge  of  land  to  the  eastward,  which  we 
j(iave  since  learned  is  named  by  the  natives  the  Rein-Deer 
Hills,  and  at  seven  encamMd  near  two  conical  hills  of  lime- 
stone, about  two  hundred  f^t  high,  anct  clothed  with  trees  to 
their  tops.  The  length  of  the  day's  voyage  was  forty-two  miles. 
We  selected  a  sandy  bank,  covered  with  willows  sixteen  feet 
high,  for  our  encamping  place ;  and  here  again  we  found  that 
a  party  of  Esquimaux  had  lately  occupied  the  oame  spot,  the 
ashes  of  their  fires  being  still  fresh,  and  the  leaves  of  the  willow 
poles  to  which  they  had  attached  their  nets,  unwithered.  Be- 
fore we  retired  to  bed,  the  arms  were  examined,  and  a  watch 
was  set;  a  practice  which  we  kept  up  for  the  remainder  of  the 
voyage.     Much  rain  fell  in  the  night. 

On  the  3th  we  embarked  at  four  in  the 
Wednesday,  5th.  corning,  and  soon  afterwards,  the  channel 
conducting  us  to  the  base  of  the  Rein-Deer  Hills,  Mr.  Kendall 
and  I  ascended  an  eminence,  which  was  about  four  hundred 
feet  high.  It:  summit  was  thinly  coated  with  gravel,  and  its 
sides  were  formed  of  sand  and  clay,  inclosing  some  beds 
of  brownish-red  sandstone,  and  of  gray-coloured  slate-clay. 
Clumps  of  trees  grew  about  half  way  up,  but  the  top  produced 
only  a  thin  wiry  grass.  At  eleven  a.m.  we  landed  to  break- 
fast, and  remained  on  shore  until  noon,  in  the  hope  of  obtain- 
ing an  observation  for  latitude,  but  the  sun  was  obscured  by 
clouds.  In  the  afternoon  I  had  an  extensive  view  from  the 
summit  of  a  hill  of  flat  alluvial  lands,  divided  into  islands  by 
inosculations  of  the  channels  of  the  river,  and  bounded,  at  the 
distance  of  about  forty  miles  to  the  westward,  by  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  As  we  advanced  to  the  northward,  we  perceived 
the  trees  to  diminish  in  size,  becoming  more  scattered,  and 
ascend  a  shorter  way  up  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  they  altoge- 
ther terminated  in  latitude  68°  40',  in  an  even  line  running 
across  the  islands ;  though  one  solitary  spruce  fir  was  seen  in 
68°  53'*  Perhaps  the  lands  to  the  northward  of  this  abrr^pt 
line  were  too  low  and  wet  for  the  growth  of  the  white  spruce, 
the  tree  which  attains  the  highest  latitude  on  this  continent. 

We  pitched  our  tents  for  the  night  on  the  site  of  another 
Esquimaux  encampment,  where  a  small  bit  of  moose  deer's 
meat  was  still  attached  to  a  piece  of  wood  at  the  fire-place ; 
and  we  saw,  from  the  tracks  of  the  people  and  dogs  in  the 


[1826. 

ize  time, 
iervatioii 
the  same 

current, 
•  P.M.  we 
/hich  we 
ein-Deer 

of  lime- 
I  trees  to 
^o  miles, 
teen  feet 
>und  that 
spot,  the 
e  willow 
ed.     Be- 

a  watch 
ler  of  the 

ir  in  the 
channel 
,  Kendall 
hundred 
il,  and  its 
me  beds 
late-clay, 
produced 
;o  break- 
>f  obtain- 
cured  by 
from  the 
stands  by 
2d,  at  the 
le  Rocky 
)erceived 
sred,  and 
jy  altoge- 
5  running 
IS  seen  in 
lis  abrupt 
e  spruce, 
itinent. 
f  another 
)se  deer's 
ire-place ; 
s  in  the 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


165 


July.] 

sand,  that  a  party  had  left  the  river  here  to  cross  the  Rein- 
Ueer  Hills.  From  information  obtained  throudi  the  Sharp- 
eyed,  or  Quarreller  tribe  of  Indians,  this  appears  to  be  one  of 
the  Esquimaux  routes  to  a  large  piece  of  brackish  water 
named  Esquimaux  Lake,  and  alluded  to  by  Mackenzie  in  se- 
veral parts  of  his  narrative.  The  length  of  our  voyage  this  day 
was  lorty.four  miles,  and  our  encampment  was  opposite  to  an 
island  named  by  Captain  Franklp  after  William  Williams, 
t.sq.,  late  governor  of  Prince  Rupert's  land.  We  observed 
here  an  unusually  large  spruce  tree,  considering  the  high  lati- 
tude in  which  It  grew  ;  it  measured  seven  feet  in  circumference, 
at  the  height  of  four  feet  from  the  ground.  A  hole  was  dug  at 
the  toot  of  the  hill,  in  sandy  soil,  to  the  depth  of  three  feet 
without  reaching  frozen  ground. 

On  the  6th,  heavy  and  continued  rain  delayed 
our  embarkation  until  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon,  '^'^""•^ay,  6th. 
and  the  weather,  during  the  rest  of  the  day,  was  hazy,  with 
occasional  showers  of  small  rain.  Before  leaving  the  encamp- 
ment,  we  lopped  the  branches  from  a  tree,  and  suspended  to 
It  a  small  kettle,  a  hatchet,  an  ice-chisel,  and  a  few  strings  of 
beads,  together  with  a  letter  written  in  hieroglyphics,  by  Mr. 
Kendall,  denoting  that  a  party  of  white  people  presented  these 
articles  to  the  Esquimaux  as  a  token  of  friendship.*     As  we 
advanced,  we  came  to  the  union  of  several  ramifications  of  the 
middle  channel  with  the  eastern  branch  of  the  river,  and  the 
breadth  of  the  latter  increased  to  two  miles  ;  its  depth  of  wa- 
ter  being  rarely  less  than  three  fathoms.     In  latitude  69°,  the 
eastern  channel  of  the  Mackenzie  makes  a  turn  round  the  end 
ot  the  Rein-deer-hills  which  terminate  there,  having  previously 
diminished  m  height  to  about  two  hundred  feet.    At  the  com- 
mencement of  this  turn,  there  is  a  small  island  nearly  equal  to 
the  main  land  in  height,  and  appearing  when  viewed  from  the 
southward,  to  be  a  continuation  of  it.    Its  position  pointing  it 
out  to  be  the  one  described  by  Mackenzie  as  possessing  «  a 
sacred  character,"  and  being  still  a  burial  place  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, 1  named  it  Sacred  Island.    We  saw  here  two  recent, 

*  As  the  reader  may  desire  to  know  what  hieroglyphics  were  used  to  ex- 
press our  intentions,  a  copy  of  the  letter  is  annexed. 


^ 


^ 


if 


kM 


166 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


and  several  more  ancient  graves.  The  bodies  were  vyrapped 
in  skins  clo=ely  covered  with  dnft-wood,  and  laid  with  their 
heads  to  the  west ;  so  that  the  rule  mentioned  by  Captain  Lyon 
in  his  account  of  Melville  peninsula,  does  not  obtain  on  this 
part  of  the  coast ;  for  there  none  but  the  bodies  of  infants  are 
placed  in  that  direction.  Various  articles,  such  as  canoes, 
sledces,  and  fishing  nets,  were  deposited  near  the  graves. 

Sacred  Island  is  formed  Entirely  of  layers  of  fine  sand  ot  dii- 
ferent  colours,  covered  by  a  little  vegetable  mould.  One  ol 
its  sides  being  steeply  escarped  by  the  waves,  showed  its  struc- 
ture-completely. Amongst  the  vegetable  productions  of  this 
spot  we  noticed  the  perennial  lupine,  the  narrow-leaved  epilo- 
bium,  and  some  currant  bushes  in  full  flower,  and  growing 
with  great  luxuriance.  From  its  summit  we  had  a  view  ot  the 
river  flowing  in  many  channels,  both  to  the  eastward  and 
westward.  The  islands  lying  in  sight  to  the  westward  are  low, 
and  apparently  inundated  when  the  river  is  flooded ;  but  to  the 
eastward,  there  are  many  islands  having  hummocks  as  high  as 
Sacred  Island,  and  judging  from  those  that  were  near,  they 
are,  like  it,  compo-,ed  of  sand.  The  channels  surrounding  the 
island  appear  to  be  ihallow.  •     u       * 

After  leaving  that  island,  we  steered  along  the  mam  shore  to 
a  sandy  point  about  four  miles  distant,  and  encamped  near  a 
very  recent  resting  place  of  a  large  party  of  Esquimaux,  not 
fewer  than  ten  fires  having  been  made  since  the  heavy  ram  of 
the  morning.  There  was  also  vestiges  of  five  or  six  winter- 
houses  on  this  point.  Richard's  Island,  which  was  named  m 
honour  of  the  Governor  of  the  Bank  of  England,  forms  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  channel  here,  and  exhibits,  like  the  neigh- 
bouring islands,  some  sandy  hummocks  and  cliffs.  1  he  length 
of  the  day's  voyage  was  twenty-five  miles,  and  our  encamp- 
ment was  situated  in  lat.  69°  4'  N.,  long.  134°  10'  W. 

We  embarked  on  the  morning  of  the  7th  at  tour 
Friday,  7th.  Qigiock,  in  cold,  hazy  weather,  and  soon  came  to 
a  point  of  Richards'  island,  on  which  there  were  four  or  five 
Esquimaux  tents,  with  several  skin  canoes,  and  boats  lying  on 
the  beach.  I  had  previously  arranged  that  on  our  first  inter- 
view with  the  Esquimaux,  I  was  to  land  with  Ooligbuck,  wlulst 
Mr  Kendall  kept  the  boats  afloat  ready  to  lend  us  such  aid  as 
might  be  required;  conceiving  that  this  was  the  best  way  of 
inspiring  the  natives  with  confidence,  should  they  be  distrustful, 
or  of  securing  freedom  of  action  to  our  crews  should  they 
prove  unfriendly.  The  muskets  were  kept  in  the  am-chest 
out  of  sight,  but  ready  for  instant  use.  As  we  drew  near  the 
point,  two  women,  wiio  were  walking  along  the  sr^^rc,  i00iie« 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


167 


as  canoes, 


July.] 

at  us  with  amazement  for  some  minutes,  and  then  ran  into  the 
tents  and  alarmed  their  inmates.    Several  men  instantly  rush- 
ed out,  nearly  naked,  with  their  bows  and  quivers  in  their 
hands,  makmg  furious  gestures  and  apparently  much  frightened. 
I  desired  Oohgbuck  to  speak  to  them,  and  called  to  them  my- 
self  m  their  own  language  that  we  were  friends ;  but  their  ter- 
ror and  confusion  was  so  great,  that  they  did  no^  appear  to 
comprehend  us.     I  then  took  a  few  beads,  files,  and  knives,  in 
my  hand,  and  landing  with  Ooligbuck,  made  some  presents  to 
the  men,  and  told  them  I  was  come  to  trade.    The  moment  I 
mentioned  the  word  » trade  '  {noowarlook),  their  fears  subsided, 
and  they  se;it  away  their  bows,  but  retained  their  long  knives : 
those  that  were  clothed  thrusting  them  into  their  pockets  or 
up  their  sleeves.     An  old  woman  who  seemed  to  have  greater 
self-possession  than  the  rest,  and  to  understand  my  meaning 
more  readily,  ran  and  fetched  some  dried  fish,  for  which  I  gave 
her  beads  ;  and  the  others  then  began  to  manifest  an  eager  de- 
sire of  exchanging  their  fish  for  any  thing  that  I  offered.    More 
people  coming  from  the  tents,  a  crowd  was  formed,  who  ob- 
tained all  the  trading  articles  I  had  brought  on  shore.  As  their 
surpnse  subsided,  their  boldness  and  clamour  increased,  and 
some  few  of  them  began  again  to  use  threatening  expressions 
and  gestures,  either  from  a  dislike  to  strangers  coming  into 
their  country,  or  for  the  purpose  of  intimidation  and  extortion, 
When  the  interview  assumed  this  disagreeable  character, 
Uoligbuck  said  that  they  were  very  bad  people,  and  entreating 
me  to  embark,  took  me  on  his  back  and  carried  me  on  board. 
At  the  same  time,  several  of  the  natives  ran  into  the  water  and 
attempted  to  drag  the  boat  ashore,  but  on  my  calling  to  them 
they  desisted.     One  fellow,  whose  countenance,  naturally  dis- 
agreeable, had  been  rendered  hideous  by  the  insertion  of  a 
large  brass  thimble  into  a  perforation  in  the  under  lip,  seized 
upon  our  tea-kettle,  and  endeavoured  to  conceal  it  under  wa- 

*^  mS"'  ^^^"^  ^^^"^  ^^^^  ^^^^  Union,  he  was  made  to  return  it. 
When  we  left  the  shore,  all  the  males,  twenty-one  in  num- 
ber, embarked  in  their  small  canoes  or  kaiyaks  and  accompa- 
nied us ;  and  in  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  women  had 
struck  the  tents  and  embarked  them,  together  with  their  chil- 
dren,  dogs,  and  luggage,  in  their  row  boats  or  oomiaks,  and 
were  m  close  pursuit.  For  a  time  we  proceeded  down  the 
river  together  in  an  amicable  manner,  bartering  beads,  fire- 
steds,  flints,  files,  knives,  hatchets,  and  kettles,  for  fish,  adzes, 
spears,  and  arrows.  The  natives  seemed  to  have  a  correct 
idea  of  property,  and  showed  much  tact  in  their  commerce 
With  us;  circumstances  which  have  been  held  by  an  eminent 


168 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


historian  to  be  evidences  of  a  considerable  progress  towards 
civilization*.  They  were  particularly  cautious  not  to  glut  the 
market  by  too  great  a  display  of  their  stock  in  trade;  proauc- 
ing  only  one  article  at  a  time,  and  not  attemptmg  to  out-bid 
each  other;  nor  did  I  ever  observe  them  endeavour  to  deprive 
one  another  of  any  thing  obtained  in  barter  or  as  a  present. 
As  is  usual  with  other  tribes  of  Esquimaux,  they  asked  our 
names  and  told  us  theirs,  a  practice  diametrically  opposite  to 
that  of  the  Indians,  who  conceive  it  to  be  improper  to  men- 
tion a  man's  name  in  his  presence,  and  will  not,  on  any  ac- 
count, designate  their  near  relatives,  except  by  some  andirect 
phrase.  They  showed  much  more  curiosity  respecting  the 
construction  of  our  boats  than  any  of  the  tribes  of  Indians  we 
had  seen,  and  expressed  great  admiration  of  the  rudder,  soon 
comprehending  its  mode  of  action,  although  it  is  a  contrivance 
of  which  they  were  previously  ignorant.  They  were  mcessant 
in  their  inquiries  as  to  the  use  of  every  thing  they  saw;  m  our 
possession,  but  were  sometimes  content  with  an  answer  toa 
brief  to  afford  much  explanation;  as  in  the  following  instance. 
Ooligbuck  had  lighted  his  pipe  and  was  puffing  the  smoke 
from  his  mouth,  when  they  shouted  "  ookah,  ookah,""  (fire,  fire,) 
and  demanded  to  be  told  what  he  was  doing.  He  renhed  with 
the  greatest  gravity,  "  poo-yoo-al-lctchet-ratomaK'''  (1  smoke) ; 
and  this  answer  sufficed..  On  my  referring  to  an  Esquimaux 
vocabulary,  Ooligbuck,  in  answer  to  their  questions,  told  them 
that  the  book  spoke  to  me,  when  they  entreated  me  to  put  it 
away.  I  afterwards  detected  the  rogue  with  the  brass  thimble 
endeavouring  to  steal  this  book,  and  placed  it,  as  I  thought, 
out  of  his  reach;  it  was  missing  in  the  evening,  but  I  never 
ascertained  whether  it  had  been  purloined  by  the  Esquimaux, 
or  had  fallen  overboard  in  moving  some  of  the  stores.  Seeing 
me  use  my  pocket  telescope,  they  speedily  comprehended  il^ 
use,  and  called  it  'Hetee-yawgah;'  (far  eyes)  the  name  that 
they  give  to  the  wooden  shade  which  is  used  to  protect  their 
eyes  from  the  glare  of  the  snow ;  and  which,  from  the  small- 
ness  of  its  aperture,  enables  them  to  see  distant  objects  more 
clearly.  Of  our  trading  articles,  light  copper  kettles  were  m 
the  greatest  request,  and  we  were  often  asked  for  the  long 
knives  which  are  used  for  ffinching  whales.  It  is  creditable 
to  the  Esquimaux  habits  of  cleanliness,  that  combs  were  in 
great  demand,  and  we  saw  wooden  ones  of  their  own  manufac- 
ture, not  dissimilar  to  ours  in  form.  I  distributed  looking- 
glasses  to  some  of  the  young  men,  but  they  were  mostly  re- 
turned again,  although  I  do  not  know  on  what  account. 

*  Robertson's  History  of  America.  , 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


169 


July.] 

This  party  of  Esquimaux,  being  similar  in  features  and  dress 
to  the  tribe  seen  by  Captain  Franklin,  and  not  differing  mate- 
rially from  the  Esquimaux  inhabiting  Melville  peninsula  which 
have  been  bo  fully  described  by  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon,  it  is 
not  necessary  to  enter  into  any  detail  here  on  those  points. 
Ooligbuck's  dialect  and  theirs  differed  a  little,  but  they  mutu- 
ally understood  ooe  another.     I  observed  that  they  invariably 
sounded  th^  letter  m  instead  of  g,  when  in  the  middle  of  a 
word,  callmg  Ooligbuck,  Oolimbauk.     Ooligbuck's  attempts 
to  pronounce  "  Doctor"  were  sufficiently  imperfect,  but  to 
our  visitors,  the  word  seemed  utterly  unattainable,  and  they 
could  designate  me  only  by  the  term  Eheumaltak  or  chief. 
Ihey  succeeded  better  with  the  names  of  some  of  the  men, 
readily  naming  Tysoe,  and  calling  Gillet  »  mieC'    The  fe- 
malesy  as  they,  passed  in  their  oomiaks,  bestowed  on  us  some 
glances  that  could  scarcely  be  misconstrued,— their  manners, 
in  this  i»espect,  differed  widely  from  those  of  the  Indian  wo- 
men, who  have  a  modest  and  even  shy  demeanour.     Some  of 
the  young  girls  had  a  considerable  share  of  beauty,  and  seemed 
to  have  spared  no  paiins  in  ornamenting  their  persons.     Their 
hair  ^as  turned  up  in  a  neat  knot,  on  the  crown  of  the  head, 
and  a  lock  or  queue,  tied  by  a  fillet  of  beads,  hung  down  by 
the  ears,  on  each  side.    Mr.  Nuttall,  in  his  account  of  the 
Quapaws  or  Arkansas,  mentions  that  the  unmarried  women 
wear  their  Kair  braided  into  two  parts,  brought  round  to  either 
ear  m  a  cylindrical  form  and  ornamented  with  beads ;  and  a 
similar  attention  to  head-dress  is  paid  by  some  of  the  Indian 
women  inhabiting  the  borders  of  the  great  Canada  lakes,  and 
also  by  the  Tawcullies  or  Carriers  of  New  Caledonia  ;*  but 
the  females  of  all  the  tribes  of  Indians  that  we  saw  in  our  route 
through  the  northern  parts  of  the  fur  countries,  suffer  their  hair 
to  hang  loose  about  their  ears,  and,  in  general,  adorn  their 
persons  less  than  the  men  of  the  same  tribes.  The  Esquimaux 
women  dressing  better,  and  being  required  to  labour  less,  than 
the  Indian  females,  may  be  considered  as  a  proof  that  the 
former  nation  has  made  the  greater  progress  towards  civiliza- 
tion ;  and  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  Esquimaux  would  adopt 
European  habits  and  customs  much  more  readily  than  the  In- 
dians. 

Though  there  are  many  circumstances  which  widely  distin- 
guish the  Esquimaux  from  their  Indian  neighbours,  they  might 
all,  possibly,  be  traced  to  the  necessity  of  associating  in  num- 
bers for  the  capture  of  the  whale,  and  of  laying  up  large  hoards 

*  Harnwti'n  Journal,  p.  288. 


'm 


170 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1026. 


of  blubber  for  winter  consumption.  Thus  have  they  been  m- 
duced  to  build  villages  for  their  common  residence,  and  from 
thence  have  originated  those  social  habits  which  are  mcompa- 
tible  with  the  wandering  and  precarious  life  of  an  Indian  hun- 
ter. It  would  lead,  however,  to  too  long  a  digression,  were  1 
to  enter  into  details  on  this  ^nbiert,  and  I  resume,  therefore, 
the  narrative  of  the  voyae  . 

In  the  course  of  th:;  .  Ka.i  -^i     o  came  to  several  other  en- 
campments, one  of  them  consisting  of  nine  tents ;  and  each 
party  no  sooner  learnt  who  we  were,  than  they  embarked  bag 
and  baggage  and  followed  us.     Some  of  the  new  comers  vvere 
shy,  and  kept  aloof,  but  in  general  they  were  too  forward.  Em- 
boldened by  their  increase  of  numbers,  thry  ^-.unally  became 
more  daring,  and  running  their  kaiyacks  alongside,  laid  hold 
of  the  boat's  gunwale,  and  attempted  to  steal  any  thing  within 
their  reach.     To  lessen  their  opportunities  of  annoying  us,  1 
was  obliged  to  keep  the  crews  constantly  rowing,  for  when 
we  attempted  to  rest,  three  or  four  fellows  would  instantly 
seize  the  opportunity  of  lifting  the  blades  of  the  oars  and  push- 
ing their  kaiyacks  alongside,  whilst  others  would  cling  on  by 
the  bows  and  quarters,  nor  could  they  be  dislodged  without 
much  trouble.     They  manifested  great  cunning  and  dexterity 
in  their  pilfering  attempts,  and  frequently  acted  in  concert. 
Thus,  one  fellow  would  lay  hold  of  the  boat  with  both  his 
hands;  and  while  the  coxswain  and  I  were  disengaging  theni, 
his  comrade  on  the  other  side  would  make  the  best  use  of  his 
time  in  transferring  some  of  our  property  into  his  canoe,  with 
all  the  coolness  of  a  practised  thief.   The  smaller  things  being, 
however,  put  as  well  out  of  the  way  as  possible,  and  a  strict 
look-out  kept,  they  were,  in  almost  every  instance,  detected ; 
and  they  restored,  with  the  most  perfect  good  humour,  every 
arti^lo  they  had  taken,  as  soon  as  it  was  demanded,  often 
laughing  heartily  at  their  own  want  of  address.     They  suc- 
ceeded only  in  purloining  a  bag  of  ball,  and  a  powder-horn,  as 

•  The  Esquimaux  method  of  settling  disputes,  which  we  learned  from 
Augustus,  deserves  to  be  mentiontjd,  not  only  as  being  very  different  from 
the  sullen  conduct  of  an  affronted  Indian,  but  fro.n  its  coincidence  with  the 
practice  of  a  people  widely  separated  from  them — the  native  inhabitants  of 
Sydney,  in  New  South  Wales.  Mr.  Cunningham,  in  his  entertaining  work 
on  New  South  V  les,  says,  "  The  common  practice  of  fighting  amongst  the 
natives  is  still  w  a  the  waddie,  eacli  alternately  stooping  the  head  to  receive 
the  other's  blows,  until  one  tumbles  down,  it  being  considered  cowardly  to 
evade  a  stroke."  The  Esquimaux  use  the  rist  instead  of  the  waddie,  m 
these  singular  duels,  but  there  is  no  other  difference  betwixt  their  practice 
and  that  of  the  New  South  Wales'  people.  Another  coincidence  betwixt 
the  Esquimaux  and  the  inhabitants  of  Australasia,  is  the  use  of  the  thr«  J-^- 
in^  tttick  fur  uiocharging  thcir  spears. 


[1826. 

'  been  in- 
and  from 
incompa- 
dian  hun- 
n,  were  I 
therefore, 

other  en- 
and  each 
arked  bag 
ners  were 
ard.   Em- 
ly  became 
,  laid  hold 
ing  within 
)ying  us,  I 
,  for  when 
I  instantly 
and  push- 
ling  on  by 
;d  without 
1  dexterity 
n  concert, 
h  both  his 
jing  them, 
use  of  his 
anoe,  with 
ings  being, 
nd  a  strict 
,  detected ; 
our,  every 
ided,  often 
They  suc- 
er-horn,  as 

learned  from 
lifferent  from 
3iice  with  the 
nhabitants  of 
taining  work 
■  amongst  the 
sad  to  receive 
i  cowardly  to 
le  waddie,  in 
their  practice 
knee  betwixt 
Df  the  thro 


^^^y-l  or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 

the  theft  was  not  perceived  at  the  time     I 
check    *  ■ 


171 
was  unwilling  to 


this  conduct  by  a  display  of  arms,  because  1  was  desir- 
ous  of  gainuig  the  natives  by  kindness  and  forbearance,  the 
more  especially,  as  ur  ignorance  of  the  state  of  the  ice  ren- 
dered It  doubtful,  whether  we  might  not  be  under  the  necessity 
01  encamping,  for  some  time,  in  their  neighbourhood.  Had  we 
resented  their  pilfering  attempts  too  hastily,  we  should  have 
appeared  the  aggressors,  for  they  expressed  great  good- will  to- 
wards, us,  readily  answered  such  questions  as  we  were  able 
to  put  to  them  about  the  course  of  the  river,  pointed  out  to  us 
the  deepest  channels,  invited  us  to  go  ashore  to  cook  our 
breakjast,  and  even  offered  to  provide  us  with  wives,  if  we 
would  pass  the  night  at  their  tents.  For  very  obvious  reasons 
we  declined  all  their  invitations;  but  our  crews  being  fatitued 
with  continual  rowing,  and  faint  from  want  of  food,  we  halted 
at  one  p.m.,  by  the  side  of  a  steep  bank,  and  breakfasted  in  the 
boats,  insisting  on  the  Esquimaux  keeping  aloof  whilst  we 
were  so  engaged. 

In  the  afternoon  we  had  to  search  for  a  passage  amongst 
islands,  there  being  no  longer  water  enough  near  the  main  shore 
to  float  our  boats.   The  Esquimaux  undertook  to  guide  us,  but 
whether  through  accident  or  design,  they  led  us,  Sn  one  occa- 
sion, mto  a  shallow  chanuel,  where  we  grounded  on  a  sand- 
bank, over  which  there  was  a  strong  current  setting;  and  we 
had  not  only  much  difficulty  in  getting  afloat,  but  had  to  pull, 
or  an  hour,  against  the  s(  cam,  to  regain  the  passage  we  had 
leit.    Soon  after  this,  one  of  the  natives  made  a  forcible  at- 
tempt to  come  into  the  Dolphin,  under  the  pretext  of  bdrter- 
Hig  two  large  knives  which  he  held  in  his  hand ;  and  the  dex- 
terity with  which  he  leaped  from  his  kaiyack  was  remarkable. 
Ihero  were  three  other  kaiyacks  betwixt  him  and  our  boats 
which  on  his  giving  the  signal,  were,  by  their  owners  laying 
their  brond  paddles  across,  instantly  converted  into  a  platform 
over  which  he  rar    with  velocity  and  sprang  upon  the  steni 
seat  01  the  Dolphhi,  but     e  was  immediai.ly  tumbled  out 
again     Judging  from  the  boldness  of  this  fellow's  behaviour, 
and  the  general  tenour  of  the  conduct  of  the  natives,  that 
sooner  or  later  they  might  be  tempted  to  make  an  attack  upon 
js,  1  adopted,  as  a  meas-   e  of  precaution,  the  plan  of  purchas- 
ing their  bows,  which    .e  their  most  powerful  weapr  ns.  They 
were  at  hrst  unwilling  to  part  with  them ;  but  finding  that  we 
would  take  nothing  else  in  exchange   or  the  articles  we  ha^^  'O 
dispose  <  n  they  ultimately  1-t  us  have  a  good  number.     T  - 
^unaux  bows  are  formed  of  spruce-fir,  strengthened  on  the 
back  by  cords  made  of  the  sinews  of  the  rein-dp^r  on.i  wn„M 


172 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


have  been  prized,  even  beyond  their  favourite  yew,  by  the 
archers  of  Sherwood.  They  are  far  superior  to  the  bovvB  ot 
the  Indians,  and  are  fully  capable  of  burying  "  the  goose-wing 
ofa  cloth-yard  shaft"  in  the  heart  of  a  deer. 

Several  of  the  young  men  tried  the  speed  of  their  kaiyacks 
acainst  our  boats,  and  seemed  to  delight  in  showing  us  how 
much  their  little  vessels  excelled  ours  in  velocity.     lowards 
evening  the  womei^d  oomiacks  had  all  gone  ahead,  and  we 
were  given  to  understand  that  they  were  about  to  encamp  for 
the  niSht.  Thinking  that  they  would  choose  the  best  route,  we 
followed  them  into  a  channel,  which  proved  too  shallow ;  and 
when  we  put  about  to  try  another,  the  natives  became  more 
urcent  than  ever  that  we  should  land  and  encamp  along  with 
them.  Just  as  we  were  about  to  enter  a  passage  which  the  bs- 
quimaux,  doubtless,  knew  was  deep  enough,  and  led  by  ttje 
shortest  route  to  the  sea,  the  Union  grounded  upon  a  bank, 
about  half  a  bow-shot  from  the  shore.     Seven  or  eight  of  the 
natives  instantly  jumped  out  of  their  kaiyacks,  and  laying  hold 
of  the  boat's  bow  and  steering-sweep,  attempted  to  drag  her 
ashore.     They  were  speedily  joined  by  others,  who  hurried 
from  the  beach  with  knives  in  their  hands ;  and  Mr.  Kendall 
seeing  that  he  would  almost  immediately  be  surrounded  by  a 
force  too  great  to  permit  his  men  to  act,  called  to  me  that  he 
should  be  obliged  to  fire.     Fully  aware  of  the  necessity  of 
prompt  measures,  1  answered  that  he  was  at  liberty  to  fire  if 
necessary.     Upon  which,  snatching  up  his  fowj»ng-piece    he 
presented  it  at  three  of  the  most  daring  who  had  hold  of  the 
sweep-oar,  and  his  crew  who  were  now  in  the  water  endea- 
vouring to  shove  the  boat  off,  and  struggling  with  the  natives, 
lumped  on  board  and  seized  their  muskets.     The  crew  of  the 
Dolphin  likewise  displayed  their  arms  and  stood  ready,  but  I 
ordered  that  no  individual  should  fire  unt;.  called  upon  by 
name.     They  were,  however,  the  instant  that  a  shot  was  fired 
from  the  Union,  to  lay  the  Dolphin  aground  alongside  of  her, 
that  thus  we  might  present  only  two  assailable  sides  to  the 
enemy.     Happily  there  was  no  occasion  to  fire  at  all ;  the 
contests  of  the  Esquimaux  with  the  Indians  had  taught  them 
to  dread  fire-arms,  and  on  the  sudden  sight  of  every  man  arm- 
ed  with  a  musket,  they  fled  to  the  shore.     Until  that  monient 
we  had  kept  our  guns  carefully  concealed  in  the  arm-chest,  to 
prevent  any  of  the  natives  from  snatching  them  away  and  dis- 
arming us,  and  also  that  they  might  not  deem  our  intentions  to 

be  other  than  pacific.  .    ,    '  .       i        c    t. 

I  do  not  believe  that  the  natives  had  matured  a  plan  ot  at- 
tack, bat  the  stranding  of  a  boat  on  their  own  shore  was  too 


OF  THE  POLAR  SKA. 


173 


July.] 

great  a  temptation  to  be  resisted.  Some  individuals  had  ore- 
viously  shown  unequivocal  signs  of  good  feeling  towards  us, 
such  as  bringing  back  the  Union's  sweep-oar,  which  had 
slipped  from  the  coxswain's  hands ;  and  also  in  pointing  out 
the  channel  we  afterwards  pursued  to  the  sea,  as  preferable 
to  the  one  which  the  oomiacks  had  taken.  Even  the  better- 
disposed,  however,  would,  doubtless,  have  joined  the  others, 
had  they  began  to  plunder  with  success ;  for  they  told  us  in  the 
forenoon  that  there  was  no  one  of  their  horde  acknowledged 
as  a  chief.  It  is  probable  that  the  Esquimaux  were  doubtful 
as  to  the  sex  of  some  of  our  party,  until  they  saw  them  prepare 
for  battle.  None  but  women  row  in  their  oomiacks,  and  they 
had  asked  Ooligbuck  if  all  the  white  women  had  beards. 

The  crews  on  this  occasion  behaved  with  a  coolness  and  re- 
solution worthy  of  the  utmost  praise,  executing  without  the 
slightest  confusion  the  orders  they  received.  Mr.  Kendall  acted 
with  his  usual  judgment;,  and  his  prudence  and  humanity,  in 
relrain-ng  from  firing,  merit  the  highest  encomiums.  The 
Union  being  speedily  set  afloat  by  her  crew,  we  pulled  to- 
gether  through  a  wide  channel,  three  feet  deep.  The  spot  where 
this  transaction  took  place  has  been  named  Point  Encounter 
and  js  m  latitude  69"  16'  N.,  and  longitude  136°  20'  W. 

The  Esquimaux  seemed  to  hold  a  consultation  on  the  beach 
after  we  left  them ;  but,  as  none  attempted  to  follow  us  imme- 
diately, we  enjoyed  the  respite  from  their  forwardness  and  cla- 
mour, which  had  become  very  harassing,  particularly  to  Mr. 
uAfu  "myself,  who  had  other  duties  to  attend  to.     He 

had  full  occupation  in  surveying  and  delineating  the  route ;  and 
as  the  Dolphin  led  the  way  through  a  shoal  and  intricate  navi- 
gation,  It  was  requisite  that  I  should  keep  the  sounding-lead 
constantly  going,  and  be  on  the  watch  for  any  change  in  the 
appearance  of  the  current  which  might  indicate  shoal  water  the 
smallness  of  our  crews  preventing  me  from  appointing  any  man 
to  that  service.    In  about  an  hour  after  leaving  Point  Encoun- 
ler,  we  observed  ten  kaiyacks  coming  towards  us  from  a  clus- 
ter of  islands ;  they  soon  overtook  us,  but  kept  at  a  reasonable 
distance,  and  no  longer  gave  us  any  trouble  by  coming  along- 
side.   We  wished  to  show  that  we  had  no  desire  to  hurt  them 
notwithstanding  their  past  conduct,  and,  therefore,  began  again 
to  trade  with  them;  yet  we  were  naturally  anxious  that  they 
should  leave  us  before  we  encamped,  because,  from  the  fleet- 
ness  of  their  kaiyacks,  they  could  soon  collect  a  great  number 
of  their  countrymen,  and  give  us  much  annoyance  in  the  night 
Uur  wishes  were  seconded  by  a  fresh  breeze  of  wind  spring- 
ing up  and  enabling  —  *-  "-*  *>- — =»-  t^-     •  •  •  -^  *^     » 


set  the  sails,  by  which  the 


V.XC«T 


11 
Wil 


M 


ring- 

'ifli 

«  ^ 

a  wii- 

Hi 

^vi^^^^^^^l 

':^\^^H^^H 

174 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826, 


17/  r 


W 


loyed  a  rest,  after  fourteen  hours'  labour  at  the  oars ;  and  the 
Esquimaux  had  grca.^r  difficulty  in  keeping  up  with  the  in- 
creased velocity  of  our  boats.  Thinking  that  they  would  quit 
us  as  soon  as  they  lost  the  hope  of  getting  more  goods,  1  de- 
sired Ooligbuck  to  tell  them  1  would  trade  no  more,  and  they 
accordingly,  one  by  one,  dropped  behind  and  left  us.  Three 
followed  us  longer  than  the  others,  and  as  they  were  not  ot 
the  party  which  attacked  the  Union,  and  had  hitherto  receivea 
nothing  from  us,  I  made  each  of  them  «  small  present  of  beads 
and  fire-steels,  when  they  also  took  leave,  calling  out  "  teymah, 
peechaw-ootoo,'"  "  friendship  is  good."  .        ^u  ^ 

We  learned  in  the  course  of  the  day.  from  the  natives,  that 
they  call  themselves  Kitte-garrce-oot,  (inhabitants  of  the  land 
near  the  mountains,)  and  that  they  were  now  on  their  way  to 
a  place  favourable  for  the  capture  of  white  whales,  as  in  the 
sea,  which  they  said  was  many  days'  march  distant,  there  was 
too  much  ice  to  take  the  black  whales  at  this  season.     It  also 
appeared  that  they  annually  ascend  to  the  Narrows  of  Macken- 
zie River,  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  Quarrellers,  and 
were  accustomed  to  spend  their  summers  in  a  large  lake  of 
brackish  water,  (Esquimaux  Lake,)  lying  to  the  eastward, 
where  they  occasionally  meet  parties  of  Loucheux.     1  hey  in- 
formed us  that  the  land  to  the  eastward  of  Encounter  Point  is 
a  collection  of  islands,  and  that  there  were  many  of  their  coun- 
trymen fishing  in  the  rivers  which  separate  them.     Ihey  had 
heard  of  the  Esquimaux  at  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  Ri- 
ver, and  knew  them  by  their  name  of  :N'aggce-ook-tor-m(s-oot, 
(or  Deer-horns,)  but  said  they  were  very  far  ofT,  and  that  they 
had  no  intercourse  with  them  ;  adding,  that  all  the  inhabitants 
of  the  coast  to  the  eastward  were  bad  people.     They  knew 
white  people  by  the  name  of  Kabloonacht,  and  Indians  by  that 
of  EitkaUig,  the  same  appellations  that  are  used  by  the  Esqui- 
maux  of  Hudson's  Bay ;  but  their  name  for  the  black  whale 
was  different  from  that  given  to  it  by  Ooligbuck;  and  they 
also  gave  names  to  some  of  their  utensils  which  he  had  never 
heard  before.   Ooligbuck  was  not  of  much  use  as  an  interpre- 
ter, in  our  intercourse  with  these  people,  for  he  spoke  no 
English;  but  his  presence  answered  the  important  purpose  ot 
showing  that  the  white  people  were  on  terms  of  friendship 
with  the  distant  tribes  of  Esquimaux.    As  a  boatman  he  was 
of  the  greatest  service,  being  strongly  attached  to  us,  possess- 
ing  an  excellent  temper,  and  labouring  cheerfully  at  his  oar. 

We  could  not  ascertain  the  numbers  of  Esquimaux  we  saw 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  because  they  were  always  com.r.g 

J ;„„  U..4. ,,.«  ^^Bo^A  of  looat  ihtrfv  tpnts.  and  had  reason 

to  believe  that  on  some  of  the  islands  there  were  tents  which 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


175 


The  wind  freshened,  and  the  night  began  to  look  stormv 

a  dnzzJ.ng  ram  came  on,  attended  with  very  dark  w^Lr* 
wh,ch  induced  us  to  make  for  a  round  islet,  Jth  a  view  of  en 
campmg,  and  securing  the  boats  for  the  night ;  it  was  skh-fed 
anchored  t^  TlT'  f '^^"^  iandir.g,\nd  with  r  fore 
covS  Iffh.         ^^  P^'"'  '^""'^  *"  ^^^  '""d,  raised  the 

rain    and  lilV  r  ^°  ^"  '^^'^'  ^"^  ««'-^'  ««  ^'  to  turn  off  the 
ram  „  and  after  eating  our  supper  and  setting  a  watch  wp  ^n 

deavoured  to  get  some  repose  by  lying  doln  in  our  c7othes' 
fori  th  '^^yrr-     ^'  ^''^  ''^''^'y  '^'d  down,  however  be! 

1^00  tL"!!:*''"^''.'"^  '?-"^"  ''  '^'^^^  ^^^h  violence  d;ecl 
iy  on  the  shore,  so  as  to  render  it  necessary  for  us  to  shift  our 

situation  without  delay.  An  attempt  was  made  to  ow  ?he 
boats  round  to  the  other  side  of  the  islet,  but  they  drifted  upon 
the  shoals  in  spite  of  the  exertions  of  the  crewfand  beJn^o 
strike  violently.     In  this  perilous  situation  w^  ^ 

perceived  some  smooth  water  to  leeward    noon   Saturday, 8th. 
which  setting  the  foresails,  the  boats  were' pushed  over  a  san 
dy  bar  into  two  fathoms  water.     We  then  stood  towards  th: 

jnlet,  which  received  the  name  of  Refuge  Cove :  where  hav 
ing  made  fast  the  boats  to  the  beach,^itched'aTent  on  the" 

We  were  not,  however,  destined  to  enjoy  much  reoos-  fhaf 
ni^ht,  for  we  had  scarcely  overcome  the  ch^ilLess  occa1on;d  by 
lying  down  ,n  wet  clothes,  when  the  Union  broke  f  om  her 
moorings  in  a  violent  gust  of  wind,  and  .egan  to TriveTcross 

deraw'L^rt 'i.'  lee-shore  on  which^there  walacons! 
derable  surf.  Mr.  Kendall  and  one  of  the  crew,  who  were 
sleepmgon  board,to  be  ready  in  case  of  accident,  owe  red  the 
covering  with  the  utmost  expedition,  and  taking  the  Tars  kent 
her  from  driving  far,  until  the  rest  of  the  party  Arrived  o  their 
assistance  m  the  Dolphin.  The  boats  LrJ  brought  to  the 
beach  and  secured,  and  we  had  again  retired  to  rest,  when  the 

y  im  f.,..  „,  ,„e  wuiu,  and  ihe  tent,  drenched  with  rain,  fell 


176  SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES  [1826. 

^«  „=  If  was  in  vain  to  attempt  to  sleep  after  this,  be- 
"P  K  h.  we^erL  by  the  coldness  of  the  weather ;  but  the 
"in  c^aSoutTour'in  L  morning  of  the  8th  we  were  en- 
abled to  mfke  a  good  fire,  and  dry  our  clothes.  The  cargo  of 
Soats  was  then  landed,  the  wet  packages  spread  out  to  dry, 
and  the  boa  s  were  drawn  upon  the  beach  so  as  to  form 
with  the  baggage,  a  three-sided  breast-work,  to  which  we  cou  d 
retreat  should  the  Esquimaux  pay  us  a  hostile  visit.  These 
arrangme^^^^^^  made,  the  tent  was  removed  to  a  more 

shdteredspot,and  we  slept  quietly  until  ten  o'docK  in  the 
rno  nine   In  the  night  an  accident  happened  to  Mr.  Kendall 
which  mieht  have  had  fatal  consequences,  and  alarmed  us  at 
i^P  fimrixceedingly.     The  point  of  a  small  two-edged  knife 

fellins  aeainst  one  of  the  tent-poles,  forced  through  the  sheath 
•  In  hiS  exactlv  in  the  region  of  the  heart.     Through  the 
^rcy  Vf  Pro^i^^^^^^^^^^^^     p4ess  was  -rested  by  one^^^^^^^^^ 
Hbs  and  the  wound  healed  in  the  course  of  a  few  days.  At  noon 
a  m'prrLn  observation  was  obtained,  which  placed  the  mouth 
%  P  f  rrnvpTn  latVde  69°  29'  N. ;  and  the  sun's  bearing 
Iwfd  fhe  ^ar  a^nt^^^^^^  magnetic  n'eedle  to  be  49*0  master- 
?v   Tho  length  of  our  voyage  the  preceding  day  was  fifty-seven 
mile;     Sge  Cove  has  an  irregular  form  ;  its  length  is  abou 
?wo  miles  and  a  half,  and  its  greatest  width  one  mile.     It  is 
un°  m    of  two  fathoms  deep  at  the  entrance    and  for  some 
a^st-  nee  within ;  but  a  bar  runs  from  Shoal  slet  to  its  north  side, 
n  1  ^  J^  e  flJt  and  sandy,  but  hereand  there  hummocks  r^e 
tuvM^'  to  the  height  cf  one  hundred  feet,  resembling  the 
Sowns  on  the  Norfolk  coast.  The  sandy  hummocks  are  bound 
Sher  by  the  creeping  fibrous  roots  of  a  species  of  grass, 
SE/vm^^^^  molUs;  and  many  of  them  are  covered  by  a 
"rt  of  bS  vegetable  mould.     Ruins  of  Esquimaux  houses 
that  appeared  to  have  been  deserted  for  many  years  were  scat- 
tered  aCg  the  borders  of  the  cove,  and  much  d"ft-timber  lay 
nnfhP  low  grounds      We  saw  some  ducks  and  geese,  and  two 
of  the  crewCnt  t;  hunt  round  the  harbour  for  deer,  but  they 

^' The  w'nd'L'inc.  moderated  in  the  evening,  we  prepared  to 

reimer  voyage",  and  had  begun  to  load  the  boats  when  i 

St  1  saw  a  kaiyack  paddle  across  the  mouth  of  the  cove 

t  was  followed  by  many  others,  that  were  in  succession  lost 

[  u^  A  *Ko  rlint  with  the  excepllon  of  one  which  seemed  to 

et?n  a'n     oTk^n"n?er^  concluded  that  the  nat- 

were  in  search  of  us ;  and,  as  it  was  desirable  to  have  all  the 

were  'n  s«^f  rcu^     ^    -,  ^^^j^^^  t^e  utmost  despatch  was 

cai'go  on  uuuiu  \TiiT,ii  t-K^,.  — ?  —  1 


[1826. 

p  this,  be- 
r ;  but  the 
;  were  en- 
e  cai^o  of 
)iit  to  dry, 
1  to  form, 
1  we  could 
t.    These 

0  a  more 
tck  in  the 
.  Kendall, 
•med  us  at 
dged  knife 
iras,  by  his 
the  sheath 
irough  the 
one  of  the 
I.  At  noon 
the  mouth 
I's  bearing 
9^°  easter- 
fifty-seven 
th  is  about 
nile.     It  is 

1  for  some 
north  side, 
imocks  rise 
tnbling  the 

are  bound 
is  of  grass, 
irered  by  a 
lux  houses, 
,  were  scat- 
-timber  lay 
5e,  and  two 
ir,  but  they 

prepared  to 
iats,  when  i 
if  the  cove, 
cession  lost 
I  seemed  to 
the  natives 
lave  all  the 
sspatch  was 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


177 


ed  Mr  K^^%^^^  ^?/'-  •^'f^''"  *^'^  ^P^^'-^tion  was  complet- 
wi'th  hi  f!^  ''  ""^  «««»t»veJr  examining  one  of  the  objects 
withhis  telescope,  suggested  that  it  was  not  a  kaiyack ;  and 
thPrT"^'"^  ""^  "  ^a«dy  e'^inence  nearer  the  entrance  of 

bn  rln^rf  rtu^T^"^  *^^'  ^^^  ^'^^'^  ^^^  ^"  optical  decep- 

t  on,  caused  by  the  haze  of  an  easterly  wind  magnifying  the 

tumps  of  dnft  wood,  over  which  the  surf  was  rolnnr  The 

CTe  d:c;ntion'f '  'T'''  •"  ^^"'P'^^'"^  *^^  reser^blaice! 

wT    -^f  S  D  ";  ^""^  ^  ^^"^  mmutes,  was  perfect, 
roundinl^ql"    i  rl^f  F^^^^^nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and 

litSewal  fffl  ?  t^'^^  "^"^^  ^^^^"^^  t»^ere  was  too 
ed  thi  nrPrl/  ""'  ^°'*'  "r^^'  ^^^  ^"'''  ^^'^'^  ^^  bad  cross- 
^eavint  fhp.  ^"^  ^"""^T^'u  ^^^  temperature  of  the  air  on 
Jeaving  the  cove,  was  36°,  but  it  fe.M  at  midnight  to  32°-  and 

tret&',^"  f '^"i  ^'"^  ^"  ourlar!  the  boats 
tlinp/w  K  ^^^  f  estward,  by  a  current  which  we  ascer- 
tamed,  by  subsequent  observations,  to  be  the  flood  tide. 

After  puUmg  along  the  coast  for  some  time,  the 
ice-M,nk  appeared  in  the  horizon,  and  about  one    ^""^^^y^  ^th. 

0  Clock  in  the  morning  on  the  9th,  we  could  perceive  a  stream 

1  e'tenHo''  '"'^"^!  ''  1^'  «^  "^"'  miles  from    he 
snore,  and  mclosmg  several  small  ice-bergs.     At  four  o'clock 

a  northerly  breeze  springing  up,  brought^  quantity  of  loose 
ce  down  upon  us  and  we  made  for  the  shore.     This  part  of 
the  coast  ,s  skirted  to  the  distance  of  two  mile   by  flat  sTnd, 
on  which  there  is  not  more  than  a  foot  ordghteen  inches  of 

tZr-     I^l  ^^^'^  '^  ^^*^^  S^«^"-"3^  increases  ?o  four  fa- 
thoms, which  It  attains  at  the  distance  of  six  or  seven  milt 

lZV^^:\T'  ""^  '^'  ^'^^y  '^^  ^^  «-^  outside,  showed  tha 
the  depth  there  was  considerable.      Esquimaux  winter  hnf! 
occur  frequently  on  the  coast,  „nd  the  rowl  oHriLTee  'pan 
ed  m  the  sand  with  the  roots  uppermost,  in  the  r  v  cinitv  as 
sume  very  curious  forms,  when  seen  through  a  hazy  atmosphere" 
They  frequently  resembled  a  crowd  of  plople  and  sompHm. 
we  fancied  they  were  not  unlike  the  sp?res7f\  tow^u    Tn 
pearing  above  the  horizon.     We  learnt  by  experience  ha  tfe 
shore  was  moi-e  approachable  at  the  points  on  which  the  E^ 
quimaux  had  bu.lt,  and  we  efFected  a  landing  at  one  ofUio;; 
places,  when  having  discharged  the  cargoes,  we  "Lied  a  e 
boats  up,  and  pitched  the  tents.     The  vvate    at  ouriandi„^ 
place  was  fresh  but  too  hard  to  make  tea  ;  and  at  fou    or  five 
m,les  from  the  shore,  it  was  disagreeable  to  drink      Out  of  re 
r^^^S^t^t;:^?^  Navy,  under  w^:;]^^ 


'%^ 


i 


U'l' 


^ 


t*. 


■m^ 


ime 


23 


given  lo  inis  I'oiui. 


lit 


178 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


Mr.  Kendall  ascertained  its  latitude  to  be  69°  38'  N.;  its  longi- 
tude by  reckoning,  132°  18'  W.;  and  the  var  .tion  of  the  mag- 
netic needle  50i  degrees  easterly.  The  distance  rowed  irom 
Refuge  Cove  was  about  twelve  miles.  A  tide  pole  was  erect- 
ed by  which  it  appeared  that  the  ebb  ran  from  four  o  clock, 
the  time  at  which  we  landed,  until  ten  in  the  morning,  pro- 
ducing a  fall  of  eighteen  inches;  but  the  afternoon  tide  did  not 
rise  so  high,  and  at  lOh.  50'  p.m.  it  was  low  water  again,  the 
wind  blowing  fresh  from  the  northward  all  the  time. 

The  vicinity  of  Point  Toker,  like  the  rest  of  the  lands  to  the 
eastward  of  Point  Encounter,  consists  of  level  sands,  inclosing 
pieces  of  water  which  communicate  with  the  estuary  of  the 
river,  and  interspersed  with  detached  conical  hills  rising  trom 
one  to  two  hundred  feet  above  the  general  level.     These  hills 
are  sometimes  escarped  by  the  action  of  the  water,  and  are 
then  seen  to  consist  of  sand  of  various  colon.rs,  in  which  very 
large  losr^.  of  drift-timber  are  imbedded.   They  are  covered  by 
a  coat  of  black  vegetable  earth,  from  six  inches  to  a  foot^in 
thickness,  which  shows  that  they  cannot  be  of  very  recent  lor- 
ination,  though  at  some  distant  period  they  may  have  been 
formed  by  the  drifting  of  moveable  sands.     At  present,  the 
highest  floods  reach  only  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  where  they 
deposit  a  thick  layer  of  drift-timber.    One  straight  log  of  spruce 
fir,  thirty  feet  long,  was  seven  feet  in  circumference  at  the 
sm'all  end,  and  twelve  a  short  distance  above  the  root.     The 
branches  and  bark  are  almost  always  rubbed  off  from  the  drift- 
timber  which  reaches  the  sea,  but  a  few  of  the  main  divisions 
of  the  root  are  generally  left.     Various  instruments  tied  up  in 
bundles  were  suspended  to  poles  near  some  of  the  Esquimaux 
houses,  such  as  spear-heads  and  ice  chisels  made  from  the  tooth 
of  the  narwhal,  and  spoons  of  musk-ox  horn.    The  marine  ani- 
mals that  frequent  this  part  of  the  coast,  according  to  the  in- 
formation we  obtained  from  the  Esquimaux,  arc,  the  white 
whale,  the  narwhal,  large  and  small  seals,  {oggce-ook  and  nat- 
chiK-ook,)  and  a  species  of  black  whale,  named  aggee-zoark. 
There  are  also  many  sea-fish,  of  which  the  capeline  {arig-mag- 
g(B-ook,)  that  abound  on  the  shoals  at  this  season,  are  most 
easily  caught.     The  latives  are  unacquainted  with  sea-horses. 
Swans,  Canada  and  white  geese,  and  Arctic  ducks,  are  nume- 
rous, and    w(i  killed   several.     Oolij^buck   likewise  killed  a 
rein-doer,  which  allorded  ns  an  ngrceable  change  of  diet. 

In  the  eveninu,  liavin<j;  assembled  in  one  of  the  tents,  prayers 
were  read,  a  practice  to  which  we  adhered  on  every  Sunday 
evening  during  the  voyage.  At  lOh.  45m.  p.m.,1  lighted  apiece 
of  touchwood  with  a  coiivex  lens,  an  inch  in  diameter,  the  aiti- 


[1826. 

its  longi- 
the  mag- 
ved  from 
iras  erect- 
•  o'clock, 
iing,  pro- 
le did  not 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


Lgain, 


the 


nds  to  the 
,  inclosing 
iry  of  the 
ising  from 
'hese  hills 
•,  and  are 
hich  very 
overed  by 
I  a  foot  in 
•ecent  for- 
lave  been 
esent,  the 
rheve  they 
;  of  spruce 
ice  at  the 
oot.     The 
n  the  drift- 
n  divisions 

tied  up  in 
i^aquimaux 
n  the  tooth 
narine  ani- 
r  to  the  in- 

the  white 
j/c  and  nat- 
ssee-rocerk. 

(ang-mag- 
,  are  most 
sea-horses. 

are  nume- 
=6  killed  a 
f  diet, 
its,  prayers 
i3ry  Sunday 
lied  a  piece 
er,  the  alti- 


179 
tude  cf  the  sun  being  then  3°  6'.     Jt  is  seldom  ih^i  <h« 

the  opportunity  to  prepare  brcak&WhM  ,?''"'''"'='''=  "^ 
we  discovered,  on  tfe  opposite  Se  of  !  hi      k\  ""^"f ''' 
Jf '  "--0. 1™  1'"'^  -«vef  CO  d,ed  ;o„\:'""  ""=  "'"' 
sand  a„d  ev.dently  watching  us;  but  betb°e  we  """-'''MOU,. 

spits  and  then  pXd"  '  or  1"^  sC'bu?"  TTT  '"""^r 
Wind  created  such  a  swHI  Ihtf  Jj  ^  ^  ^'^^''^  '"'eeze  of 
three  miles  in  two  houl'n^  •""  -^'^  "^^  ^^^'^'^^^  ^'^^ve 
the  crews,  whiirthtpT  greS^  "?o  smalf':"^''?/^  '^^'^"^ 

sandy  baj,and  made  the  tasIstoorrof'^Taiir  "•'"  ' 

of  ice  which  were  slrandprl  nn  iul  f  I     • '  -^  '^'^e  pieces 

setting  out  in  Z'Z:^,  :^tnT'''  '"'"'  «"""="  ^'°- 
and  on  reconnokring  KiX^^^^  '^'^  ^'^'^^ 

of  grog,  which  had  been  resivcdToVteocc^sion     '"  '  "'"^^ 


IC-I 


ii'%^ 


1B0 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


CONTINUATION  OF  THE  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  EASTERN 
CONTlNUAiiui^   yj  DETACHMENT. 


si! 


CHAPTER  II. 

Detention  by  wind-Visited  by  Ksquimaux-Crgs  a  ^g^St'-^^/J-^'g^fl! 
Water-->>^nter  Houses  o^Atk^^^^^ 

?;;rurLX-?cy  CliiF^l^^^^^^^  Party  of  Esquin.aux_Cape 

Bathurst.  ^^^^  ^^.^^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^^^^  j^^j^g  the  1 1th, 

Tuesday,  lUh.    ^^^^  ^^  remained  in  our  mooring-place,  landing 
occasionally  to  take  a  little  exercise  on  the  beach ;  .and  ^s  i 
^^nSnPrl  to  freshen  from  the  north-east  m  the  evening,  most 
n?  the  Tee  in  he  offingTd  drifted  out  of  sight,  while  a  great 
rLuction  took  pla^^^^^^^        same  time  in  the  number  and  size 
of  the  Dkces  of  stranded  ice.   One  of  them  which  had  ground- 
:d'aboC  a  mile  outside  of  us,  and  -e  fifteen  feet  a^^^^^^ 
AvatPr    fell  over  and  floated  away  with  the  ebb  tide.     Mr. 
kSiI  obtained  a  meridian  observation  for  latitude,  and  af- 
terwards took  several  sets  of  lunar  distances,  whose  results 
dS  our  anchorage  in  latitude  69°  42^  N.,  and  longitude 
fsTo   58'  W      In  the  afternoon  two  Esquimaux  we.e  seen 
wa  kin-  fast'  over  a  hill,  and  often  stopping  and  looking  anxi- 
S  around  them.     About  midnight  two  black  foxes  earned 
ofi  the  scraps  of  meat  that  h.d  been  left  at  our  cooking-place, 
«na  buS  them  carefully  in  the  sand  above  high-water  mark 
We  Ob servedThat  they^du.,  separate  hiding-places  for  each 
Ice  and  that  they  were  careful  to  carry  the  largest  bits  far- 
fhest  frornthrsea.^The  time  spent  inactively  at  the  anchorage 

Wednesday  mh.   ^gj^^her  on  the  12th.     The  temperature  was 

boats,  ana  pd         b       ^        ^^  ,^  ^^^  morning  of  the 

hich  had  alarmed  them  greatly  ;  they  had  smce  bee.  to  m- 


w 


[1826. 


EASTERN 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


181 


■earn  of  fresh 
,  and  Fog— 
lool  Bay  and 
maux — Cape 

g  the  1 1th, 
Lce,  landing 
I ;  and  as  it 
3ning,  most 
niile  a  great 
er  and  size 
lad  ground- 
t  above  the 

tide.  Mr. 
iide,  and  af- 
hose  results 
id  longitude 

"wei'e  seen 
joking  anxi- 
oxes  carried 
oking-place, 
water  mark. 
ces  for  each 
gest  bits  far- 
le  anchorage 
mimals  were 
regret  when 
in  the  boats, 
place  in  the 
perature  was 
>nfinement  in 
y  Esquimaux 
proached  the 

us  that  they 
jrning  of  the 

had  first  dis- 
kill  the  deer, 
;e  been  to  in- 


July.] 

quire  about  us  from  the  party  at  Point  Encounter,  and  having 
learnt  thai  we  were  well-disposed,  they  had  come  to  open  a 
commumcation.  In  allusion,  1  suppose,  to  the  attempt  on  the 
Union,  they  often  said  that  the  Esquimaux  at  the  river's  mouth 
were  bad  people,  but  that  they  themselves  were  ^ood-hearted 
men  ;  and  they  struck  their  breasts  forcibly  with  their  hands, 
to  give  energy  to  their  assurances.  They  told  us  that  a  large 
party  of  their  countrymen,  who  were  at  present  fishing  at  the 
mouth  of  a  river  to  the  eastward,  would  soon  move  in  this 
direction  to  kill  white  whales.  Eetkoo-yak,  the  principal 
spokesman,  invited  us  to  go  to  his  tents,  where  he  said,  the 
women  would  be  glad  to  receive  us ;  and  added,  that  next  day 
he  would  bring  four  of  his  countrymen  to  visit  us.  We  made 
them  a  handsome  present  of  iron-work ;  and  having  paid,  with 
beads,  for  some  dried  fish,  sent  them  away  highly  contented. 

At  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  13th, 
nine  Esquimaux  came  to  us,  amongst  whom  were   "^^"'^^^y,  I3th. 
<)ur  two  acquaintances  of  yesterday.     Some  of  the  young  men 
inquired  when  we  were  going  away,  and  seemed  to  be  anxious 
that  we  should  depart;  but  our  friend  Eetkoo-yak  gave  us  a 
pressing  inv.tation  to  his  tents,  and  wished  to  embark  in  the  boats 
to  conduct  us  thither.  We  declined  his  proposal,  and  the  wind 
havmg  moderated,  we  unmoored  the  boats,  and  rowed  along 
the  coast.    The  natives  followed  us,  and  soon  afterwards  four 
women  and  two  boys  came  off  in  an  oomiak,  and  exchanged 
^me  boots,  pieces  of  leather,  deer's  meat,  and  fish  for  beads. 
1  he  point  on  which  their  tents  were  pitched  was  named  Point 
Warren  after  my  friend  Captain  Samuel  Warren,  R.  N     As 
we  continued  our  course  the  oomiak  returned  to  the  shore 
and  tiie  men  also  left  us  soon  afterwards,  apparently  pleased  with 
our  departure :  for  the  knowledge  of  the  effect  of  our  muskets 
seemed  to  have  impressed  them  with  some  dread.  They  were 
tattooed  across  the  cheeks.  The  tribes  to  the  westward  of  the 
Mackenzie  are  described  by  Captain  Franklin,  (p.  1 11,)  as  fol- 
lowing  a  different  fashion  in  the  application  of  this  ornament 
We  coasted  this  day  a  flat  shore,  with  dry  sands  running  off 
to  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  and  we  passed  within  se- 
veral shoals,  on  which  some  heavy  ice  had  grounded.    Only  a 
*^\?'"»"  streams  of  ice  were  seen,  although  the  ice-blink  was 
visible  the  whole  day.  Soon  after  rounding  Point  Warren,  we 
crossed  the  mouth  of  a  large  river,  the  water  being  muddy  and 
resh  for  a  breadth  of  three  miles,  and  the  sounding  lead  was 
letdown  to  the  depth  of  five  fathoms,  without  striking  the  bot- 
tom.    This  nver  is,  perhaps,  a  branch  of  the  Mackenzie,  and 
,a!l8  sn^o  a  ^ay,  on  wnich  i  have  bestowed  the  name  of  mv 
esteemed  friend  Copland  Hutchinson,  Esq.  Surgeon  Extraor- 


'm 


!ll 


182 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


M 


[182G. 

dinary  to  His  Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  Clarence.  On  its 
east  side  there  is  an  island,  which  was  named  after  Captain 
Charles  Phillips,  R.N.  to  whom  the  nautical  world  is  indebted 
for  the  double-capstan,  and  many  other  important  inventions. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  rainy  weather  setting  in, 
we  made  for  a  small  ij^land,  and  mooring  the  boats  as  near  the 
beach  as  we  could,  covered  them  up,  and  landed  to  prepare 
supper.  The  length  of  the  day's  voyage  was  twenty-eight  miles 
and  a  half.  Mr.  Kendall  named  the  island  in  honour  of  Mr. 
Atkinson,  of  Berry-House:  it  is  situated  in  latitude  G9°  55'  IS., 
longitude  130°  43'  W.,  and  is  separated  from  a  flat,  and  occa- 
sionally inundated  shore,  by  a  narrow  creek.  It  is  bounded 
towards  the  sea  by  a  bulwark  of  sand-hills,  drifted  by  the  wind 
to  the  height  of  30  feet.  Under  their  shelter  17  winter-houses 
have  been  erected  by  the  natives  besides  a  large  building  which 
from  its  structure,  seemed  to  be  intended  for  a  place  of  assembly 
for  the  tribe.  Ooligbuck  thought  it  was  a  general  eating-room, 
but  he  was  not  certain,  as  his  tribe  erect  no  such  buildings. 

I  annex  a  section  and  ground  plan  of  one  of  the  largest  of  the 
dwelling-houses.  The  centre  (A)  is  a  square  of  ten  feet,  having 
a  level  flooring,  with  a  post  at  each  corner  (D,D)  to  support  the 
ridge-poles,*  on  which  the  roof  rests.  The  recesses  (B)  are 
intended  for  sleeping-places.  Their  floors  have  a  gentle  incli- 
nation inwards,  and  are  raised  a  foot  above  the  central  flooring. 
Their  back  walls  are  a  foot  high,  and  incline  outwards  like  the 
back  of  a  chair.  The  ridge-poles  are  six  feet  above  the  floor,  the 
roof  being  flat  in  the  centre,  and  sloping  over  the  recesses.  The 
inside  of  the  building  is  lined  with  split-wood,  and  the  outside 
is  strongly  but  roughly  built  of  logs,  the  whole  being  covered 
with  earth.  An  inclined  platform  (C)  forms  the  ascent  to  the 
door,  which  is  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the  recesses,  and  is  four 
feet  high ;  and  the  threshold,  being  on  a  level  with  the  central 
flooring,  is  raised  three  feet  above  the  surrounding  ground,  to 
guard  against  inundations.  There  is  a  square  hole  in  the  roof, 
near  the  door,  intended  for  ventilation,  or  for  an  occasional  en- 
trance. As  we  observed  no  fire-places  in  these  dwellings,  it  is 
probable  that  they  are  heated, and  the  cookery  performed  in  the 
winter,  with  lamps.  Some  of  the  houses  were  built  front  to  front, 
with  a  very  narrow  passage  between  them  leading  to  the  doors, 
which  were  opposite  to  each  other.  This  passage  must  form  a 
snug  porch  in  the  winter  when  it  is  covered  with  slabs  of  frozen 
snow,  and  one  end  stopped  up.  Some  of  the  larger  houses 
which  stood  single,  had  log-porches  to  shelter  their  doors ;  and 
near  each  house  there  was  a  square  or  oblong  pit,  four  feet 

*  Tlie  ridge-poles  were  omitted  in  the  section  by  mistake. 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


183 


II 


beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground,  Hncd  and  covered  with 
dnft  tinriber,  which  was  evidently  intended  for  a  store-house. 
1  he  large  building  for  an  assembly-room  was,  in  the  interior 
a  square  of  27  feet,  having  the  log-ro'of  supported  on  t wo    rTn^ 
ndge  poles,  two  feet  apart,  and  resting  on  four  upright  posJs" 
rhefloor  m  the  centre,formed  of  split  Iogs,dressed  and  laid^w  th 
great  care,  was  surrounded  by  a  raised  border  about  threeTeet 
wide  which  was,  no  doubt,  meant  for  seats.     The  walls  three 
feet  high,  were  inclined  outwards,  for  the  conveniele  of  lean 
ing  the  back  against  them,  and  the  ascent  to  the  dlr,  [^^^^^^^^^^ 
-.  -1-        ^,.!...,  „,^,^  ,^^3  ioniicu  ot  Jogs.     The  outsidp  m 
vered  wth  earth,  had  „ca.l^  a  hemispherical  fol^J^rounJ 


■m^ 


184 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


its  base  there,  were  ranged  the  skulls  of  2 1  whales.  There  was 
a  square  hole  in  the  rolf,  and  the  central  lo^of  the  floor  had  a 
basShaped  cavity,  one  foot  in  diameter,  winch  was,  perhaps, 
infpnrd  Yor  a  lamp.     The  general  attention  to  comfort  in  the 

construct 

magS  requiring  a  Snion  of  purpose  in  a  considerable  num- 

K  people,\re  evidences  of  no  small  progress  towards  civi- 
lization.  Whale  skulls  were  confined  to  the  large  building,  and 
o  one  of  the  dwelling-houses,  which  had  3  or  4  placed  round  it. 
Many  wooden  trays,  and  hand-barrows  for  carrying  whale  blub- 
berwrre  lying  on  the  ground,  most  of  them  in  a  state  of  decay. 
Myriads  of  musquitoes,  which  reposed  among  the  grass,  rose 
in  clouds  when  disturbed,  and  gave  us  much  annoyance.  Many 
snow  birds  were  hatching  on  the  Point,  and  we  saw  swans,  Ca- 
nada geese,  eider,  king,  arctic,  and  surf  ducks ;  several  glaucous 
^Iverl,  black-headed:  and  ivory  gulls,  together  with  terns  and 
northern  divers.  Some  laughini^  geese  passe^^  to  the  northward 
in  the  evening,  which  may  be  considered  as  a  sure  indication  ot 
land  in  that  direction.     The  sea-water  at  Atkinson  Island  be 

ing  quite  salt,  and  the  ponds  on  the  shore  ^ra^^^'^,^' ^t.  „ffpr" 
course  to  the  ice  that  lay  aground  for  a  supply  of  fresh  water. 
Strong  eales  of  wind,  with  heavy  ram,  contiuued  a  1  mght. 

The  rain  ceasing  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning 
Friday,  14th.  ^^^^^  j  4^^,  we  embarked,  and  palled  along  a  sandy 
bar  which  projected  five  or  six  miles  from  Atkinson  Island,  and 
was  covered  by  masses  of  ice.     We  had  not  left  the  beach 
above  an  hour,  when  a  thick  fog  hid  the  land  from  our  view, 
and  a  noise  of  breakers  being  at  the  same  time  heard,  we  deem- 
ed it  prudent  to  moor  the  boats  to  a  piece  of  grounded-ice,  and 
wait  for  clear  weather.     After  a  time,  the  fog  dispersing  par- 
tially, we  made  sail  before  a  fresh  breeze  towards  the  most 
easterly  point  of  land  in  sight,  but  we  had  not  advanced  above 
five  or  six  miles  before  the  looming  of  the  shore  on  the  lar- 
board bow  made  it  necessary  to  haul  to  the  win    ;  and  the  fog 
becoming  as  dense  as  ever,  we  ran  aground  on  some  fla  s, 
where  the  surf  nearly  filled  the  boats.     ..1  lowering  the  sails 
deeper  water  was  attained,  but  the  wind  began  to  blow  hard 
directly  upon  the  shore,  and  we  could  not  discover  a  landing- 
place,  nor  did  we  even  know  our  distance  from  the  beach.   In 
this  dilemma  we  saw  a  long  line  of  floating  sea-weed,  and  Oolig- 
buck  suggesting  that  it  came  from  the  mouth  of  a  river,  we  fol- 
lowed its  direction,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  sounding  lead 
groped  our  way  betwixt  two  shoals  into  a  well  sheltered  inlet. 
Here  there  was  a  good  landing-place,  and  we  <^f"«ed  ourselves 
peculiarly  fortunate  in  reaching  so  ^nug  a  harbour,  for  the  fog 
continued  all  day,  and  the  wind  increased  to  a  heavy  gale. 


[1826. 

liere  was 
or  had  a 
perhaps, 
irt  in  the 
g of such 
ble  num- 
irds  civi- 
ding,  and 
round  it. 
lale  blub- 
of decay, 
rass,  rose 
ce.  Many 
ivanSjCa- 
glaucous, 
terns  and 
orthward 
ication  of 
sland  be- 
/e  had  re- 
sh  water, 
[light. 
;  morning 
tig  a  sandy 
sland,  and 
the  beach 
our  view, 
we  deern- 
id-ice,  and 
srsing  par- 
}  the  most 
iced  above 
n  the  lar- 
ind  the  fog 
iome  flats, 
;  the  sails, 
blow  hard 
a  landing- 
beach.   In 
and  Oolig- 
er,  we  fol- 
ding lead, 
ered  inlet. 
1  ourselves 
for  the  fog 
y  gale. 


July.] 


or  THE   rO{,AR  SEA. 


18^ 


I, 


teltUtlZV^rZ^^^^^  '"  1^--^  of  the  Lieu- 

bay  to  the  westward  ofTM^fC^  n  Greenwich,  and  the 
Captain  George  K'Kinlry  of  Ife  ?'^;  °"*  ^^  ^^^P^^*  *« 
of  t'he  mouth  SfBroweirCove'^%^^^^^^^  t7T\  ^^.^  '«*"t"^« 

19' W.  We  did  not  ascertain  itL^i^ntb.t-^'V'^*' 
brackjsh,  t  probablv  cnmn,„n;  !  ^^^e"f»  out  as  its  water  s 
which,  accorLg  to  IndiarrPnTrf  r  ^Z*'?  .^jq^i'^aux  Lake, 
form  this  part  o?the  coast  S^v-  U  ^'^'''^^  ^'^^  '^'«"^«  ^^at 
communicate  with  the  c'vo  s.  u'^!  ^'/'"'  ^f  salt  water 
but  too  many  hunters  ..o^n'.  ■    ^  ^^•'^'  ?^  ^^'^^  ''^^'^  «een, 

seen  there,  are  natives  of  the  Scott^hHll       'J'       J"^'  ?'""*' 
cies  of  willows  were  the  only  shrubs  '     ^^"  ^^^^^  'P^' 

I  he  fog  clearing  away,  and  the  wind  mode- 

,W  nf'fhTt'.TK^^'^!^  ^^°"*   ^^''^^  '«   *»'«    morn-     S'^'^rday,  ,5th. 

ing  ot  the  1 5th ;  and  steering  along  the  coast  rnmo  f^ 
ow  sandy  islands,  that  were  seSed  hv  wTk  ?  ^  ^'''"P  ^^ 
low  channels,  and  skirted! to  tKistance^oTfiL  "'  ""'^  '^^■ 
by  sand-banks,  which  wer^  near'y  dry  "t  fow  wl?.     T  '"'''i' 
ing  these  banks  our  soundings  vaS  from  T       r  '?  '"""'^■ 
fathoms,  and  we  were  occasfon.Hv^i    ?      ^^"^  ^^^*  *«  two 
the  land.   During  thrXl^da;     ^i^  muTh  c'^l^/J^'^  '/ 
and  m  some  places  it  was  so  closely  Da^k^H  .?  I    '^^^^^d' 
doubtful  whether  a  ship  would  have  been  ^I.  "^  ''?"^^'''* 
through  it.     The  line  o'f  deep  wate'  was  markeTh^r^^ 
njasses  of  ice  lying  aground,  an^d  was  ab^u   t^n  mit  f^oriT 
shore.     As  we  could  not  reach  the  beach  wp  if'    k/^^ 
upon  a  piece  of  ice  at  noon,  and  cut^ng  up  a  spare  sr.ffn''^^ 
wood,  proceeded  to  cook  our  breakf^^V  .Ll^V   I   *  ^^rfire- 
for  latitude  and  magnetic  variation     ''  "^'  observations 

acrt^anTnreKrthrtt:r  'T'^  ^'  *-  ^^^s 

and,  though  fi;e  falm^  S  [t^^s^T at  fe^^^ 
supposed  to  be  another  communication  bet W^  ^ 
Lake  and  the  sea,  and  named  it  Rusellnlft  after  thHT^ 
guished  Professor  of  Clinical  Sur^erv  in  fh/T?-  ^  ^"*'"- 
Edinburgh.  The  land  on  it  wesS  id^  L^.^TfTJ^  ""^ 
Brown  out  of  respect  to  the  em7nenTbo4nrst™ '!^"  '  •  ^■'?' 
researches  reflect  so  much  credit  on  British  tale„t;;dS?o 

•*4 


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33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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186 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826, 


the  eastward  of  the  iplpt  received  the  "»"»«  of  Dalhousie,  in 
the  «**7'Vj.  E  ceiiency  the  GovernormChief  of  the  Car 
tZ  Ca^rDarousie  consi^^^  of  a  number  of  high,  sandy 
i^2  r^embllng  those  seen  from  Sacred  Island  m  th,  mouth 
:!fhP  Mackenzie.  We  entered  some  deep  mlets  amongst 
fhVm  in  sS^^^^  a  landing-place,  but  the  beach  was  every 
SeTooflaf  At  length,  affer  dragging  the  boats  through  the 
Kr  a  coW;deral3e  way,  and  --)-§  ^S^^.^^Xo'eand 

^  to^thfot  JhSng  fl  one  hundred  to  o«e  hun^^^^^^^^ 
•nH  fiftv  feet  hiah  above  the  water,  and  bounded  on  alUldet 
hvt«D  sandy  &,  which  «ere  skirted  by  flat  sands.  From 
ttV;Sto?the  island  wc  had  «<«  ""P'^^^'"!;''"  «' »  Z 
^vered  with  floating  ice,  as  far  as  the  '3«  ""''' ''"j'^l"^^! 
eastward,    Tejn.e.tu^e  d-ng  the  «-Xg'5['„»{h!s  da';? 

t°'::raXt;iiieYrdrbainWdfofthee„p.™p, 

„ent  70"  ,2',  a^d  longitude  m;^!  J-^^^  ^j^,,^     ,  ...^.j 
Sunday,  16th.  I,    ggve„i,j  the  morning,  when  we  pulled  roun(^ 
r«nP  balhousie,  and  found  the  land  trending  as  we  wished  tf^ 
fh?  ontfr*:  -.ince  reaching  the  sea  the  coast  had  gra^^^ 
ally  inclined  to  the  northward,  which  with  the  increase^ 
«  Ltitv  of  ice  seen  on  the  two  or  three  last  days,  led  «8  to 
?ea' th7t  a  cape  might  exist,  extending  so  far  to  the  northward, 
as  to  prevent  us  from  reaching  the  Cop  perm  ne  River  w.thm 
ZJm  to  which  our  voyage  was  hmited.   It  was,  therefore^ 
S  peculiar  satisfaction,  that,  on  puttmg  ashore  to  ?ooH 
b^eakS,  we  saw  distant  land  to  the  S.E.,  apparently  of  grea^ipr 
Wh  than  that  which  we  had  recently  coasted;  and  we  n^w 
flattered  ourselves  that  we  were  about  to  leave  behmd  us  the 
fow  coasts^nd  shoals,  which  render  the  boat  navigation  mm 
t^Ss  of  the  Mackenzie  and  Esquimaux  Lake  ««  p^^^' 
DlexLng  and  hazardous.     Many  deer  were  seen  at  our  brejk. 
ras^gUce,  and  the  musquitoes  annoyed  them  so  much  that 
thcre^wouW  have  been  ni  difficulty  m  approaching  thenu  if 
we  could  h^ve  spared  time  to  send  put  the  hunters^       j. 

Having  obtained  an  observation  for  latitude,  we  direciej 
our  couri  tp  a  projecting  point  across  an  inlet,  vv.th  i.P  and 
vSbW  i^arda  Ss  tomtom.  The  soundings  in  the  middle  pf 
Iheopenii^  exceeded  nine  fathoms ;  the  w^ter  becairje  less  salt 
S  wraav\nced,and  ,t  last  Co«ld  ?^^y  he  termed  b^^kish- 
SuriZr^rnv^d  to  be  an  Island  sixteen  mil^a  dist^n.^  frpm 
oiTl^^K^S^ace;  and  as  we  apprpa«?hed  it,  we  h^ 


[1826. 

lousie,  in 
f  the  Car 
gh,  gaudy 
he  mouth 
amongst 
A'as  every 
rough  the 
goes  for  9 
shore,  ^n4 
mped  wasi 
e  hundred 
n  all  fiide^ 
ids.  From 
vv  of  a  sea 
ach  to  th€! 
of  the  dsiy 
r  this  day's 
le  enciiEnp? 

md  loaded 
(lied  roun4 
J  wished  tQ 
had  gra^Ui 
increased 

8,  |e4  us  t» 
nojthward» 

,iver  within 
J,  therefore, 
re  to  cooH 
y  of  greater 
md  we  D<>w 
;hind  us  the 
;ation  ac^fl^s 
^ake  80  per' 
t  our  brea^k-, 
o  much  that. 
)ing  tbenu  if 
■s.  \ ' 

we  directed 
with  BO  land 
he  middle  of 
am^e  less  salt 
ted  brackish, 
dists^nt  froro 
,  we  hakd  th^ 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


id7 


July] 

mortification  to  perceive  a  coast  seven  or  eight  miles  beyond 
ft,  apparently  continuous,  and  trending  away  to  (he  norih- 
nortii-west.     The  island  was  named  Nicholson  Island,  as  k 
mark  of  my  esteem  for  Willism  Nicholson,  Esq.,  of  ftdcheStfer. 
It  IS  bounded  by  high  cliffs  of  sand  and  mud,  and  rises  in  th^ 
interior  to  the  height  of  four  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  thb 
cliffs  were  thawed  to  the  depth  of  three  feet,  but  frozen  under- 
neath,  and  the  water  issuing  from  the  thawing  ground  tauSed 
the  mud  to  boil  out  and  flow  down  the  banks.    There  werd 
many  small  lakes  on  the  island,  and  a  tolerably  good  vegeta- 
tion.     Amongsfc  other  plants  1  gathered  here  a  very  beautiful 
American  cowslip,  (dodecatheon,)  which  grew  in  the  moist  val- 
leys,     b  rom  the  summit  of  the  island  a  piece  of  water,  resem- 
bling  a  large  river,  and   bearing  south,  was  seen  winding 
through  a  country  pleasantly  varied  by  gently  Swelling  hills 
and  dales,  and  differn)g  so  much  in  character  froih  the  alluvial 
islands  we  had  just  left,  that  I  thought  myself  iustified  in  con- 
sidering It  to  be  part  of  the  main  land.  From  ^.W.  to  W  N  W 
open  water  was  seen,  broken  only  by  a  few  islands,  that  were 
named  after  Major-General  Campbell,  of  the  Royal  Marines, 
i  his  large  sheet  of  watee  is  undoubtedly  the  Esquimaux  Lake, 
which,  according  to  the  natives,  not  only  communicates  with 
the  eastern  branch  of  the  Mackenzie,  but  receives,  beside^, 
two  Jarge  nvers;  and,  consequently,  the  whole  of  the  land 
which  we  coasted  from  Point  Encounter,  is  a  collection  of'  is- 
ands.    1  he  temperature^  varied  this  day  from  38°  to  55^  The 
length  of  the  day's  voyage  was  thirty-three  miles,  the  latitude 
of  our  encampment  69"  57',  and  longitude  123°  18'  W. 

On  the  17th  a  thick  fog  detained  us  until  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  it  dispersed,  and  we  ^""'l*^'  '"''th. 
left  our  encampment.     About  two  miles  from  Nicholson's  Is- 
land  the  water  was  nine  fathoms  deep,  and  had  a  brackish 
taste;  but  as  we  continued  our  course  to  the  northward,  it  be- 
came shoaler  and  salter.   This  added  to  the  probability  of  the 
winding  channel,  which  bore  south,  being  a  laree  river:  and 
that^opinion  was  further  strengthened  by  our  observing,  when 
we  landed  to  breakfast,  the  shore  to  be  strewed  with  tide- 
wrack,  resembling  that  which  is  generally  found  on  the  banks 
ot  rivers  m  this  country,  such  as  pieces  of  willows,  fragments 
of  fresh-water  plants,  and  lumps  of  peat  earth.     We  were  de- 
lighted to  find  here  a  beach  of  sand  and  fine  gravel,  bold 
enough  to  admit  of  our  running  the  boats  upon  it.     The  fresh 
footsteps  of  a  party  of  Esquimaux  were  seen  on  the  sand. 

After  obtaining  an  observation  for  latitude,  we  embarkpH, 
ana  coruiimed  our  course  along  the  coast  until  we  came  to  the 


188 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


m 


extremity  of  a  cape,  which  was  formed  by  an  island  separated 
from  the  main  by  a  shallow  channel.     Ttie  cliffs  of  this  island 
were  about  forty  feet  high,  and  the  snow  which  had  accumulat- 
ed under  them  in  the  winter,  was  not  yet  dissolved,  but,  owing 
to  the  infiltration  and  freezing  of  water,  now  formed  an  inclined 
bank  of  ice,  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  height  of  the  cliff.    This 
bank,  or  icebei^,  being  undermined  by  the  action  of  the  waves, 
maintained  its  position  only  by  its  adhesion  to  the  frozen  cliffs 
behind  it.     In ,  some  places  large  masses  had  broken  off  and 
floated  away,  whilst  in  others  the  currents  of  melting  snow 
floating  from  the  flat  land  above,  had  covered  the  ice  with  a 
thick  coating  of  earth ;  so  that  at  first  sight  it  appeared  as  if  the 
bank  had  broken  down ;  the  real  structure  of  the  icebei^  being 
perceptible  only  where  rents  existed.   In  a  similar  manner  the 
frozen  banks,  or  icebergs,  covered  with  earth,  mentioned  by 
Lieutenant  Kotzebue,  in  his  voyage  to  Behring  Straits,  might 
have  been  formed.   Had  the  whole  mass  of  frozen  snow  broken 
off  from  this  bank,  an  icebeeg  would  have  been  produced 
thirty  feet  wide  at  its  base,  and  covered  on  one  side  to  the 
depth  of  a  foot,  or  more,  with  black  earth.     The  island  was 
composed  of  sand  and  slaty  clay,  into  which  the  thaw  had  not 
penetrated  above  a  foot.     The  ravines  were  lined  with  frag- 
ments of  compact  white  limestone,  and  a  few  dwarf-birches 
and  willows  grew  on  their  sides.    The  sun's  rays  were  very 
powerful  this  day,  and  the  heat  was  oppressive,  even  while 
sitting  at  rest  in  the  boat ;  the  tempfl^ature  of  the  air  at  noon 
being,  in  the  shade,  62°,  and  that  of  the  surface  water,  where 
the  soundings  were  three  fathoms,  55°. 

Immediately  afler  rounding  the  cape,  which  was  named  aflev 
His  Excellency  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland,  Lieutenant-Governor 
of  Upper  Canada,  we  entered  a  channel  ten  miles  wide,  run- 
ning to  the  eastward,  with  an  open  horizon  in  that  direction ; 
and  a  doubt  arose  as  to  whether  it  was  a  strait,  or  merely  a 
bay.  Many  large  masses  of  ice  were  floating  in  it,  which 
proved  to  us  that  it  had  considerable  depth ;  but  the  water  be- 
ing only  brackish,  excited  a  suspicion  that  there  was  no  pass- 
age through  it.  While  we  were  hesitating  whether  to  hazard 
a  loss  of  time  by  exploring  the  opening,  or  to  cross  over  at  once 
to  the  northern  land,  several  deer  were  seen,  and  the  hope  of 
procuring  a  supply  of  fresh  meat,  induced  us  to  put  ashore  and 
encamp  for  the  night,  that  the  hunters  might  go  in  chase.  The 
beach  here  was  strewed  with  fragments  of  dark-red  sandstone, 
white  sandstone,  white  compact  limestone,  and  a  few  pieces 
of  syenite.  There  were  many  large  trunks  of  spruce-firs 
lying  on  the  sand,  completely  denuded  of  their  bark  and 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


.  189 

^^Hi^n^ti::^^^^^^  -anne  crustaceo.s  ani- 

were  successful,  Ooligbuck  and  ¥t  ^''  ""f  H*  ^"  ^^"nters 
Many  of  these  animalf  had  flef to  th^'Y  T'^  ^"""8  ^  ^^er. 
coast,  but  even  there  the  musamti«  *  ""^  '"^I'V^^^^  «»  the 
as  to  render  them  regardless  of  th^   *  u^  ?'™  «**  ™"<:h 

The  latitude  of  our  fnc!^i:ir^tt:X""r  f  ^^  I'"'^*^"- 
45' ;  and  the  length  of  fhp\il„"  " '  longitude  127° 

motion  of  the  tide  fnr  fho  „     *  ^^  •    %  watch  ng  the 

tisfied  ™7self^L^^t  fbbSutrf^h"'  ''^^  ?'^^*'  ^  ^4 1 

flood  came  round  the  land  on  fh"         ^  ^^'^"'"S^  «"d  that  the 

ed  that  there  clld  be  „o    *  ,-^^^^^^ 

direction,  and  that  the  opening  lellV  *^t  ""'*^^'^  ^«  this 

twelve  E^quimauxtnts  on  an  S^  ^""^  ^  '^*>"M 
was  walking  „„  the  Cch  gaveT  »^" '  'l^"  """»»  "ho 

were  near  enough  to  8peaKh*  hi  ""•  '?'  ?»'  »"«1  "« 
her  to  the  spot  L  a  time     Th.    ' '' V"''P™«  having  faed 

dishing  the,?  knive^rdTusiL Ihe '1*^,";.™*'''  '»"'>'™^ 
8.ons,  forbade  us  to  lanS, 'aSd  lefred^'  „  ^^'^"8  "P-^" 
we  came.  Ooligbuck  endeavonrwi  ♦  P'"!?'  ''J'  ""e  way 
tellingthemthatwewerefS  t  .2.  "'"'  *'"«'•  ^are,  by 
peatlHg  their  threata  .n^  u  A  *•"'  ""^^  '•«P''ed  only  bv  re 
which^displLdgr^i  altv^  h'deous  grimaces  andgX^ 

and  .hr.^ng^,g/X&  «  grlrth'^f  "I ""  o-'^^' 
on  my  bawling  "  nocwa>r£L^'  (itlT  k'T    ^'  '^--Sth 
came  quiet  at  once,  and  one  of  (^        ■       '"■'>  ^^  ^e- 
and  paddhng  off  to  us  was  fcn„».Ti."'""'"8  *"  h"  kairack, 
even  before  ftey  coul/wJeTe  .^jT  T"^  "^  ""«  »">«" 
They  came  boldfy  alongside   and  exZ  ''II'?. '?'*  8>^«  him 
™ws,  bows,  and  some  pSJes'of  w.?/^5    "^  j**  *«"•  'f^"<  ar- 
of  old  iron-hoop,  m"a'nd  beads     Thr''''  ''"■*»•  '""W" 
nished  with  iron-work  as  thp  f1.,-      ^  were  not  so  well  fu^ 
o  the  westward,  and  ve'  e^f f^ T""''  T  """J  =een  further 

In  our  intercou'rse  with^theTwe  evnT**  » j»PpIy  from  „,. 
tage  from  a  simole  contriv.„„         expenenced  much  advan. 

constructed  dZg  our  ha™rR.ff^'??''  ''^^'-  K»<la?Und 

formed  by  r,i,ip„H°"  ""5 '"  '^f  "ge  Cove :  it  was  a  h»,^iV."" 

y  -  ■%  ..»mas.s  and  spare  oars  eighteen  i^hl^ 


II 


'ii'   t 

m 


hri 


i 

..:. 


■li 


ll.Ni^J 


190 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THB  SHORES 


[1826. 

gbove  the  gunwale  on  two  crutches  or  davits,  which  not  only 
prevented  our  Esquimaux  visitors  from  stealing  out  of  the 
boats,  but,  in  the  event  of  a  quarrel,  could  have  been  rendered 
arrow  proof  by  throwing  the  blankets  or  sails  over  it.  On  a 
light  breeze  springing  up  we  set  the  sails,  and  continuing  to 
ph-  the  oars,  advanced  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour,  at- 
tended by  eleven  kaiyacks.  Three  oomiacks  with  the  women 
followed  us,  and  we  found  that,  when  rowed  by  two  women, 
and  steered  by  a  third,  they  surpassed  our  boats  in  speed. 

The  females,  unlike  those  of  the  Indian  tribes,  had  much 
handsomer  features  than  the  men ;  and  one  young  woman  of  the 
party  would  have  been  deemed  pretty  even  in  Europe.  Our 
presents  seemed  to  render  them  perfectly  happy,  and  they 
danced  with  such  ecstacy  in  their  slender  boats  as  to  incur,  more 
than  once,  great  hazard  of  being  overset.  A  bundle  of  strings 
of  beads  being  thrown  into  an  oomiack,  it  was  caught  by  an  old 
woman,  who  hugged  the  treasure  to  her  breast  with  the 
strongest  expression  of  rapture,  while  another  elderly  danie, 
who  had  stretched  out  her  arms  in  vain,  became  the  very  pic- 
ture of  despair.  On  my  explaining,  however  that  the  present 
was  for  the  whole,  an  amicable  division  instantly  took  place ; 
and  to  show  their  gratitude,  they  sang  a  song  to  a  pleasing  air, 
keeping  time  with  their  oars.  They  gave  us  many  pressing 
invitations  to  pass  the  night  at  their  tents,  in  which  they  were 
joined  by  the  men;  and  to  excite  our  liberality  the  mothers 
drew  their  children  out  of  their  wide  boots,  where  they  are 
accustomed  to  carry  them  naked,  and  holding  them  up  begged 
beads  for  them.  Their  entreaties  were,  for  a  time,  successful ; 
but  being  desirous  of  getting  clear  of  our  visiters  before  break- 
fast-time, we  at  length  told  them  that  our  stock  was  exhausted, 
and  they  took  leave. 

These  Esquimaux  were  as  inquisitive  as  the  others  we  had 
seen  respecting  our  names,  and  were  very  desirous  of  teaching 
us  the  true  pronunciation  of  theirs.  They  informed  us  that 
they  had  seen  Indians,  and  had  heard  of  white  people,  but  had 
never  seen  any  before.  My  giving  a  little  deer's  meat  to  one  of 
them  in  exchange  for  fish,  led  to  an  inquiry  as  to  how  we  killed 
the  animal.  On  which  Ooligbuck  showed  them  his  gun,  and 
obtaining  permission,  fired  it  off  after  cautioning  them  not  to 
be  alarmed.  The  report  astonished  them  much,  and  an  echo 
from  some  neighbouring  pieces  of  ice  made  them  think  that  the 
ball  had  struck  the  shore,  then  upwards  of  a  mile  distant.  The 
women  had  left  us  previously ;  several  of  the  men  departed 
the  instant  they  heard  the  report ;  and  the  resS  in  a  short  time, 


'1 


I»l 


July.] 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


We  learned  from  these  Deoole  fh«Mhl  cK  ^"'*'^''- 

tufts  of  a"b'ei:f;iZ  In'd  0;:?!?^^''  ''^™"'"'>"' 

cape  f„rmi„g'L"\lTe rZr:nh'- ""'.  '"''f^  ""'•  ^he 
70'  36'  N.,  lon^ftudel  27^35'  w  ""'/""•»"«'■«?  in  latitude 
northerly  ^art  of  the  mai,?.h  '>"^.  P™"''' *o  be  the  most 
voyage.     It  is  a  few  miles  farther  north  than  Return  R?»f  „f 

Hononrable  thrEan'ofl^h^^tr:  V"heTZdfi:t^o"l''f 
TZlTZt  »•>"?»»■?«  Baillie  Esq'  o?1he  Cotn  TSffiTe 

Lsriftts^r"  rerv!X7[efrtt„t"'''"""'«°*^ 

natives' wlrpT"*'^  ^'^'^  V^"  "^^«""t«  ^^  received  from  the 
?pr    TTc     •  ^  ^^'  ?"!:  °^"  observations  led  us  to  believTcor 

J-  —  B^i,5,j,  „j  MiOic  man  ons 


M 

m 


■m 

^^1 


192 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


hundred  and  forty  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty.  It  is  reported  to  be  full  of  islands,  to  be  every  where 
brackish ;  and,  besides  its  communication  with  the  eastern 
branch  of  the  Mackenzie,  to  receive  two  other  larce  rivers. 
If  a  conjecture  may  be  hazarded  about  the  original  formation 
of  a  lake  which  we  had  so  few  opportunities  of  examining,  it 
seems  probable  that  the  alluvial  matters  brought  down  by  the 
Mackenzie,  and  other  rivers,  have  gradually  formed  a  barrier 
of  islands  and  shoals,  which,  by  preventing  the  free  access  of 
the  tide,  enables  the  fresh  water  to  maintain  the  predominance 
behind  it.  The  action  of  the  waves  of  the  sea  has  a  tendency 
to  increase  the  height  of  the  barrier,  while  the  currents  of  the 
rivers  and  ebb-tide  preserve  the  depth  of  the  lake.  A  great 
formation  of  wood-coal  will,  I  doubt  not,  be  ultimately  formed 
by  the  immense  quantities  of  drift-timber  annually  deposited 
on  the  borders  of  Esquimaux  Lake. 


[1826. 

i  hundred 
ery  where 
e  eastern 
^e  rivers, 
formation 
mining,  it 
wn  by  the 
i  a  barrier 

access  of 
iominance 

tendency 

tnts  of  the 

A  great 

ly  formed 

deposited 


July.] 


OF  THE  rOLAR  SEA. 


193 


CONTINUATION  OF  THE  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  EASTERN 

DETACHMENT. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Krusenstern,  and  enter  Goorffr  the  Fourfhtt"  Strait«-Double  Cape 
the  Coppermine  Hiver-CXk^-Se'llogr^^^^^^^^^^ 

saw  several  white  whalf  .=?/.„      1.1   "^^^''S'm'ast  us,  and 
but  of  a  speciefuntti^:  oXbu'^t"'  T^'^^:'^'- 

^^^nireT;:^:^^^^^^^  n^idway  between 

thousand  miJes  distant  from  effir  t  ffw5     T  "  ^^i***"'  ^"'^  "P  wards  of  a 
tion.   It  is  known  th^t  they  mist "im^^^^^^  '^  interesting  specula! 

and  the  following  questiSnaSaTar^!^"'"/ ^  ll  *^°  ""^'^'^^  *°  '''^'the, 
spaces  of  open  water  in  the  Arctic  Seal  f  i'^?"^  ^^  ^"  '^^^n"  '"ge 
the  Atlantic  or  Pacific  Oceans  7^^?^/,  °'"  '^  V"^"^  '"^''"*^«  travel  from 
off  Cape  Bathurst,  Ind  srearlv  Hh^  «  '^^  °"  *l'  "''"'"^^•"ff  "P  o^  the  ic™ 
the  sea,  to  the  easlwa^d  Ld  te  "warVrrn"  '^'  "^'^^-^l  ?^  ^"'^  •  ^^ile 
ter  is  the  fact,  it  is  a  verrcurTous  part  of  ,h«  ''T'^f^'^^  ''^ '  '^^^e  lat- 
jnals     The  Esquimaux  UoSlTi^LthJ  Y^""'^  °^  *^^'«  '''''- 

hes  close,  and  in  accordance  S  this  r«i!  v^n  "'/^^i^  '''^"  ^^«"  the  ice 
the  westward,  and  we  also  lost  tSmT^  Captam  Franklin  saw  few  to 
River,  and  m^t  with  morelce  ^^  approached  the  Coppermine 

25 


■■^■i 


194 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


m 


I 

s'i 


to  the  northward,  and  even  westward,  had  excited  in  our 
minds  an  apprehension,  that  we  might  possibly  be  ob  iged  to 
make  a  great  circuit  in  search  of  a  passage,  out  of  that  extra- 
ordinary  piece  of  water,  and  that  the  opening,  when  found, 
might  he  so  far  to  the  northward  as  to  be  obstructed  by  an  icy 
sea    Fortunately  our  fears  were  groundless ;  and,  to  increase 
our  ioy,  the  coast-line  from  Cape  Bathurst  appeared  to  run 
in  a  straight  direction  for  Coppermine  River.     There  were 
many  winter-houses  built  by  the  Esquimaux  on  Cape  Bathurst. 
The  cUffs  facing  the  sea  were  still  frozen,  but  the  water  tnck- 
ling  down  their  sides  showed  that  they  were  thawing  rapidly. 
We  encamped  on  the  beach  in  latitude  70°  32i'  N.,  longitude 
127°  21'  W.,  having  sailed  that  day  thirty-seven  miles.  A  plen- 
tiful supply  of  very  fine  sorrel  {oxyria  reniformis)  being  ob- 
tained from  the  banks,  proved  an  agreeable  addition  to  our 

^^^^    '  Embarking  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of 

Wednesday,  19th.  ^^^  ^^^^^  ^g  rowed  along  the  coast  close  to 
the  beach,  in  from  two  to  three  fathoms  water.  We  landed  at 
noon  to  observe  the  latitude ;  and  at  four  p.m.  a  thunder-storm 
coming  on,  induced  us  to  encamp  for  the  night.  The  day  s 
voyage  was  thirty-two  miles,  and  our  encampment  was  situ- 
ated in  latitude  70°  11'  N.,  longitude  126°  15'  W.,  on  a  point 
which  was  named  after  Dr.  Fitton,  the  distinguished  Presiderit 
of  the  Geological  Society.  No  land  was  visible  to  seaward, 
nor  were  any  fields  of  ice  or  large  floes  seen,  but  we  passed 
many  smaller  pieces  and  some  masses,  that,  having  stranded 
on  the  beach,  were  dissolving  with  great  rapidity.  A  regular 
tide  of  six  hours  aflfecting  the  rate  of  our  progress,  an  allowance 
was  made  for  it  in  the  reckoning.  . 

The  coast  consists  of  precipitous  banks,  similar  in  structure 
to' the  bituminous-shale  cliffs  at  Whitby,  in  Yorkshire.     They 
gradually  increase  in  altitude  from  Cape  Bathurst,  and  near 
our  encampment  their  height  exceeded  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet.  The  shale  was  in  a  state  of  ignition  in  many  places,  and 
the  hot  sulphureous  airs  from  the  land  were  strongly  contrast- 
ed with  cold  sea-breezes  with  which,  in  the  morning,  they  al- 
ternated.   The  combustion  had  proceeded  to  a  considerable 
extent  on  the  point  where  we  landed  at  noon.    Much  alum 
had  formed,  and  the  baked  clays  of  yellow,  brown,  white,  and 
red  colours,  caused  the  place  to  resemble  a  brick-field  or  a 
pottery.     This  point,  which  was  named  after  Dr.  Traill,  of 
Liverpool,  lies  in  latitude  70°  19'  N.     The  interior  of  the 
country,  as  seen  from  the  top  of  the  cliffs,  appeared  to  be 
nearly  level,  and  to  abound  in  small  lakes.  The  soil  was  clayey, 


[182G. 

ted  in  our 
obliged  to 
that  extra- 
hen  found, 
d  by  an  icy 
to  increase 
ired  to  run 
'here  were 
e  Bathurat. 
water  trick- 
ing rapidly. 
.,  longitude 
les.  A  plen- 
)  being  ob- 
tion  to  our 

morning  of 
ast  close  to 
^e  landed  at 
under-storm 
The  day's 
nt  was  situ- 
,,  on  a  point 
Ejd  President 

to  seaward, 

it  we  passed 

ing  stranded 

A  regular 

in  allowance 

in  structure 
hire.  They 
st,  and  near 
Ired  and  fifty 
^  places,  and 
igly  contrast- 
ning,  they  al- 
considerable 

Much  alum 
n,  white,  and 
ck-field  or  a 
Dr.  Traill,  of 
terior  of  the 
peared  to  be 
il  was  clayey, 


July.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


195 


and  from  the  recent  thaw  wet  and  soft.   Tufts  of  the  beantirnl 
phlox  before  mentioned,  were  scattered  over  thLe  otherwf^i 
unsightly  wastes ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  scant^  VSSin 
mn-deer  were  nu^nerous.    Some  of  the  young  ones  to  whom 

tTeirSif^r'^^'l  "  ""^^'  °»^J^^*'  came  trotK  to  gratify 
their  curiosity,  and  were  suffered  to  depart  unmolestpH     Till 

sea  here  abounds  in  molluscs,  and  ma'^y  WacTwh^^^^^^^  werl 

seen^;  also  k.ng-ducks,  eiders,  snow-birds^awksranT:  U^^ 

.    We  embarked  at  half-past  two  on  the  morn- 

ing  of  the  20th,  and  ran  alongshore  for  two    Thuwday,  20th. 

hours  with  a  strong  and  favourable  breeze,  when  shoals  Ivin^ 

tte'ctst^Thrb"^  ''"^Y'^f "-' '''  "«  "'"'--  -"ef 

coiLtrb?;:UJa\^er^^^^^^^^^ 

we  attempted  to  pull  towards  the  sSr^but The  b  Aln^H 

Soon  after  landing  the  weather  became  very  foiy  and  SL' 
wind  increased  to  aheavv  mlp   Th.  ,!;«•    T  '  ^»''  "''°  "* 

Z:r  «r^^«i.-^t  hlu7o'?  i^t  u  ie  sSi'rtJ 

state  for  the  Colonial  Department     Its  brearlfh  «  oiwf  *  *7 
h-indred  yards,  and  it  seeL,  from  the 'quU^o   Srift-till? 

On  the  21st  strong  winds  and  foggy  weather 

a..,r  ei^nt  o  Uock  in  the  morning,  when  many  laige 


t.'3'l 

M 


m 
m 


Ml 


uei 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1836. 


196 

masse,  of  ice  coining  in,  took  the  ground  "e^rthe  shore,  «nd 
smoothed  the  water  sufficiently  to  enabie  us  to  embark.  1  he 
rgwas  dense  to  seaward  and  'over  the  land,  but  the  height  of 
the  cliffs  left  a  space  of  about  a  mile  from  the  beach,  over 
which  it  was  carried  by  the  violence  of  the  vvmd. 

About  two  miles  from  our  late  encampment,  the  bitummous 
shale  was  again  noticed  to  be  on  fire,  giving  out  much  smoke  i 
and  as  we  advanced,  the  cliffs  became  less  precipitous,  appear- 
ine  as  if  they  had  fallen  down  from  the  consumption  of  the 
combustible  strata.   They  gradually  terminated  in  a  green  and 
sloping  bank,  whose  summit,  about  two  miles  Jrom  the  sea, 
ro?e  tl  the  height  of  about  six  hundred  feet.    For  the  infor- 
mation  of  the  general  reader,  1  may  mention  that  the  shale 
takes  fire  iii  consequence  of  its  containing  *  considerable  quan- 
tity of  sulphur  in  a  state  of  such  minute  division,  that  it  very 
readily  attracts  oxygen  from  the  atmosphere,  and  intiames. 
T^e  combustion  is^  rendered  more  lively  by  the  presence  of 
bitumen :  and  the  sulphuric  acid,  which  is  one  of  its  products, 
unitS  with  the  alumina  of  the  shale  to  form,  with  the  addition 
of  a  small  quantity  of  potass,  the  triple  salt,  well  known  by  the 
name^f  alL.     the  moistening  of  the  strata  by  the  sea-spray 
accelerates  the  process.     In  some  alum-works,  where  nature 
has  not  been  so  favourable  as  in  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Bathurst  a 
deficiency  of  the  bituminous  matter  requisite  to  keep  up  the 
proper  intensity  of  combustion,  is  supplied  ^y  brush-wood 
which  is  strewed  in  alternate  layers  with  shale  that  has  been 
previously  much  divided  by  long  exposure  to  the  weather,  and 
the  whole  is  then  moistened  with  salt-water.  A  further  account 
of  these  cliffs  is  given  in  page  xl.  of  the  Appendix. 

In  the  forenoon  we  passed  the  mouths  of  two  small  rivers, 
which  were  designated  after  Sir  Henry  Jardine  Bart.,  King  s 
Remembrancer  in  the  Court  of  Exchequer  for  Scotland  ;  and 
Dr  Burnett,  Commissioner  of  the  Victualling  Board.  A  meri- 
dian observation  was  obtained  in  latitude  69°  38'  N. 

In  the  afternoon  the  wind  blowing  more  on  the  shore,  caused 
a  tumbling  sea.  We  sailed  amongst  much  stranded  ice,  and, 
following  the  line  of  coast,  were  gradually  led  into  a  deep  bay, 
whose  east  side,  having  a  northerly  direction,  was  formed  by 
low  land,  and  so  much  broken  by  numerous  and  extensive  in- 
lets, as  to  look  more  like  a  collection  of  islands  than  a  part  ot 
the  main  land.  We  were  now,  reckoning  by  degrees  of  lon- 
gitude, fully  half  way  from  Point  Separation  to  the  Copper- 
mine River,  and  the  coast  from  Cape  Bathurst  had  been  so 
exactly  in  the  proper  direction,  as  to  excite  high  hopes  of  a 
short  and  prosperous  voyage :  it  was,  tncrdv^iv,  »o  p.^. — 


[ 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


197 


July.] 

elsewhere.   This  inlet  is  six  fathoms  deep  at  its  entrance  and 
r^!^  P'-^ve  an  excellent  harbour  for  a  sEip  only  foX  sand 
pasteeTntol^^^^^^^^^        ^'r^'*^^  coast,  an'd  whfch;end"^he 

TwaTe    than  n^i  h?f '  ^V'^^'  '^'^'"g  ^  g»-««ter  draught 
01  water  than  our  boats.     It  was  named  Langton  Harbour 
after  the  agent  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Companrat  Liverpool   ' 
Leaving  this  harbour,  and  steering  to  V northward    we 

c'ur'nt'Te'  cit'  "*°.  "'^^?  *^.^  flood.tide^et  wlira'l^g 
current.  We  could  not  see  land  towards  their  bottoms  but 
Uieir  mouths  were  shoal,  and  we  felt  convinced  Ihat  there  was 
no  passage  through  them,  because  the  flood-tide Ttered  th^m 
from  the  westward.  We,  therefore,  proceeded  orourvovaa^ 
without  wasting  time  in  examining  them ;  and  at  ^  ^ 

two  o  dock,  on  the  morning  of  the  22nd,  havine  Saturday,  22nd. 

sS  &nts"'n?'i'''  r^'^P^.^  ^"  ^  ^'^'^  ^-"^Posed  of 
Tlf\  ^^    i^-  ^^  ^"nestone,  and  strewed  with  sea-weed 
This  beach  which  received  the  name  of  Point  Stivens  sell' 
rates  an  extensive  sheet  of  salt-water  from  the  sea,and  iss^i 
PorlnHTl''  *K  '^'  ^l"''^  ^'^'^^  '^''  connect   the  hCof 

yard   to  a  ou^^^^^^^  \  ''"''  ""  ^?'^'^  ^^^'^  «"^  h»»^' '^ 

yards  to  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  is  several  miles  long,  has  a  north- 

ern  direction,  and  seems  to  have  been  formed  by  the  sweep  of 

nt^i^ecVr'oi'nln'T  "^^'^'"^  *^^  ^'^  ^--  thl  basTns That 
Sd     ThP  J         "'^''  P/°"^«"t«''y  ^ith  which  it  is  con- 

whtch  the  tMr/'^  ''?'^    "'"'•^^  ^^^^^^^«  i«  it  through 
Which  the  tide  flows.    Anxious  to  discover  the  termination  nf 

t7co„r  foThrc '" "" '''"i'»s  "s  so  „,„ch  'zzTaI 

wound  abou?  fi  v»    TT?' '  r  »*  ">  """ummit  of  a  rising 
■"  ™-^'^"'  ^ouiaining  lour  young,  was  discovered.     The 


^<^fg^?w 


198 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


parent  bird  was  at  Brst  scared  away,  but  affection  for  ^*?  ^J: 
«S  at  length  gave  it  courage  to  approach  them  witn  food ; 
fndls^t  wafno't  molested  it%oon  became  quite  fc^^^^^^^^ 
fed  them  with  the  larvaB  of  msects,  whilst  the  party  were  seat 
4>d  at  breakfast  close  by  the  nest.  •      u„ 

*  At  nine  o'clock,  A.i.,  we  embarked agam,  and  rujingbe- 
fore  a  favourable  breeze,  came  to  a  PP'"*  ^^"f^«^"6,**f»fjf '  ^* 
limestone,  <•  .nty  feet  high,  with  a  small  inland  of  the  same 
S  of  rick  at  its  extremity.    Many  large  }>on\AeTs  oi  gveen- 
atone  were  seen  here.    After  ascertaining  the  lahtude  by  me- 
^m  Xervation  t-^  be  69°  42'  N.,  vre  continued  our  vovage 
alone  a  bold  shore,  consisting  of  precipices  of  limestone,  fo  ^ 
or^ty  f^t  high,  with  threl  or'^four  fathoms  of  water  at  the 
Lf^n  the  evening,  having  reached  a  projection  which  ap- 
nparei  to  bs  the  western  pitch  of  the  cape,  we  encamped  in  a 
'ear  a  remarkable  perforated  rock,  having  come  twentv-six 
.  since  leaving  Point  Stivens.    In  the  course  of  the  day  8 
.ge  we  had  t^  make  our  way  through  some  pretty  extensive 
str^S  of  ice,  composed  of  pieces  which  rose  eight  or^en  feet 
Iw^he  water  t^d  we  saw  a  considerable  quantity  of  what  i8 
termed  stiHng  ice  to  seaward,  being  such  as  a  ship  could  make 
her  C  through.    I  had  now  the  gratification  of  naming  the 
exLS  bay  Ire  had  been  coasting  for  three  days,  aflar  my 
S-S  and  commanding  officer;  and  to  Ac  several  mletson  ite 
eitem  side  1  assigne!  the  names  of  Wright,  Cracroft,  and 
^1  wood,  in  honour  of  his  near  relatives.    A  group  of  islands 
to  Ae  noiSward  was  named  Booth  Islands  on  the  same  ac 

^'T  bestowing  the  name  of  Franklin  on  this  remarkable  bay, 
I  paid  an  appropriate  compliment  to  the  officer,  under  whose 
oiSers  and  by  whose  arrangements  me  dehneation  of  all  that 
?9  known  of  the  northern  coast  of  the  American  Continent  has 
SeeSTfTected;  with  the  exception  of  the  parts  m  the  vicinity 
of  ley  Cape  diicovered  by  Captain  Beechey.  t  would  not  be 
DFOper  nor  is  it  my  intention,  to  descant  on  the  professional 
mXof  my  superior  officer;  but  after  having  served  under 
Saptain  Fra^nklin  for  nearly  seven  years,  in  two  successive 
vovaKes  of  discovery,  I  trust  I  may  be  allowed  to  say,  that  how- 
IveS  his  brothe;  officers  may  rate  his  courage  and  talents, 
either  in  the  ordinary  line  of  his  professional  duty,  or  in  the 
field  of  discovery,  the'hold  he  acquires  upon  the  affections  o 
those  under  his  command,  by  a  continued  series  of  the  most 
rdliating  attentions  to.thdrfe^U^^^ 


Os 


[1826. 

itoofT- 
h  food ; 
BBS,  and 
ire  seat- 

ning  be- 
cliffs  of 
he  same 
f  green- 
!  by  me- 
r  voyage 
He,  fo  ty 
er  at  the 
hich  ap- 
tped  in  a 
i^enty-six 
he  day's 
ixtensive 
p  ten  feet 
►f  what  is 
lid  make 
ming  the 
after  my 
ets  on  its 
roft,  and 
of  islands 
same  dc* 

able  bay, 
er  whose 
f  all  that 
inent  has 
e  vicinity 
lid  not  be 
ofessional 
^ed  under 
iuccessive 
that  how- 
[id  talents, 
,  or  in  the 
ections  of 
'  the  most 
iform  and 
consoicu- 
mpanions, 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA^r 


199 


July.] 

fwSt°h.^^?  ffi  ^  Lieutenant  Kendall,  are  in  unison  with  my 

Z  'Jn2i  ffi™'  *^^n  ^""^^^^  ^»d  attachment  to  our  late 
commanding  officer  will  animate  our  breasts  to  the  latest  pe- 
nod  of  our  lives,  After  this  feeble  but  sincere  tribute  of  Te- 
spect  and  re^rd  m  which  I  hope  I  have  not  overstepped  the 

SiXyage  '  °"^"'''  '  ^'^^^'^ ''  '^^""^  the  SeS  of 

««SlT°i*^?,**'^  neighbourhood  of  the  encampment  con- 

mite  and  5''^*""?'^'  "^"^^'^  ""^  ^^^  ^^"^^^  named  dolo- 
mite,  and,  as  is  u.^ual  where  that  stone  prevails,  it  was  ex- 
tremely  barren.  The  cliffs  and  noints  of  land  pVsenTma?; 
caverns  and  perforated  rocks,  which  have  very  sCg  re^em^ 
blances  to  he  windows  and  crypts  of  Gothic  bu  IdTngl  The 
common  k.ttiwake  breeds  in  great  numbers  on  tS  rocky 
^dges  m  thw  quarter,  and  their^oung  were  alrLdy  fledeed 

aur  j!^»    f         •  -^^  bags  which  were  scraped  and  iried ;  and 

Z^Z^'''T^\  ^^.  *^\^et««g  it  ^"Stained  in  the  gale  of 
the  20th,  proved  to  be  less  than  we  had  expected, 
liiinbarking  at  four  o'clock,  a.m.  of  the  23d,  we 
sailed  with  a  favourable  breeze  for  nine  miles    ^'^^''y^  23rd. 
betwixt  Booth  Islands  and  a  shore  presenting  alternately  pro- 
jecting rocky  shoals  and  narrow  inlets.     We  then  landel  and 
ascended  a  hill,  about  seven  hundred  feet  high,  to  ascertain 
the  direcUon  of  the  coast,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  findfng 

i!l7w  ^^^  "'''^  /'"'H'*  *^  °*^^*»^«™  ^^tremity  of  this  re? 
mark  ble  promontory.  It  was  named  Cape  Parry  after  the 
distinguished  navigator  whose  skill  and  preservance  havl 

ilt^^Af  ^'V^  *t?  P'^8"^^«  ^^  northern  discovery,  and  a 
letter  addressed  to  him,  containing  information  of  our  pro- 
ceedings  and  of  Captain  Franklin's  as  far  as  was  known  to^us, 
was  deposited  under  a  pile  of  stones  which  we  erected  on  the 
fZr*'^*l'  *'^"-  /'"™  *^'^  «^^^«ted  situation,  lanSwas 
tl^iw!'""  tearing  S.E.  by  S.,  about  forty  miles  distant;  and 
ZT^^tT  rrV^  ^^^^  ^^'^"^^  ^^^'^  appeared  an  open 
\!LT^^^  '^^^^^-  ""'^^  ^  ^^^  ^*'-e^™«  «f  sailing  ice,  but  no 
he^frJr  '"""  S  tb«t. direction.  There  art  maiy  well 
R  r  T  ,  """"rV  *^^  ^'^'"'ty  «f  <^ape  Parry  and  aiongst 
fenlr  h'"^''-^":*^'^°"r  ''  ^''^^y.and  numerourreffs 
CaDe  P.rr."r!?t-r  ""'"^'  ^'^  '  ^^'P-  The  eastern  side  of 
M  Fh  I  l^'j't'ts  a  succession  of  limestone  cliffs,  similar 

^  those  which  from  ts  western  shores  ;  and  as  wecintinued 
our  voyage,  we  passed  many  excavations  ornamPnfpH  Iw  ,rro.«_ 
iui  slender  pillars,  and  exhibiting  so  perfect  a 'similarity  toThe 


300 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1«26. 


I*  I' 


pure  Gothic  arch,  that  had  Nature  made  many  such  displays 
in  the  Old  world,  there  would  be  but  one  opinion  as  to  the 
origin  of  that  style  of  architecture.  A  small  island,  on  which 
we  landed  to  cook  breakfast,  was  named  after  the  late  Daniel 
Moore,  Esq.,  of  Lincoln's  Inn.  It  was  composed  of  a  cellular 
limestone,  containing  many  crystals  of  quartz.  The  whole 
party  went  in  pursuit  of  a  polar  hare  which  was  seen  here, 
but,  although  it  had  no  other  shelter  than  the  rocks,  it  con- 
trived to  escape  from  us  all. 

In  the  evening  we  encamped  on  an  island,  which  was 
named  by  Mr.  Kendall  after  the  Reverend  Dr.  Burrow  of 
Epping.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  69°  49'  N.,  longitude  123° 
33'  W.  The  length  of  the  day's  voyage  was  thirty-one  miles. 
Fine  we&ther,  and  a  temperature  of  52",  entailed  upon  us  a 
visit  from  the  musquitoes.  The  sea  water  here  is  of  a  light 
blue  colour  and  clear,  the  bottom  being  distinctly  visible  in 
five  fathoms.     Pieces  of  ice  still  adhered  to  the  cliffs. 

We  were  detained  in  the  morning  of  the  24th 
Monday,  24th.  ^^  ^  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^y^^^^i  cleared  up  about  eight 

o'clock ;  but  the  moon  being  then  in  distance,  we  remained 
until  noon,  that  Mr.  Kendall  might  take  observations  for  lunars 
and  latitude.  These  necessary  operations  being  completed,  a 
short  voyage  of  nine  miles  brought  us  to  an  island  on  which 
we  encamped,  and  which  obtained  from  us  the  name  of  Clap- 
perton,  in  honour  of  the  undaunted  explorer  of  central  Africa. 
In  our  way  we  passed  through  several  streams  of  ice,  com- 
posed of  pieces  of  considerable  size,  but  all  evidently  in  a 
state  of  rapid  dissolution,  under  a  bright  sun ;  the  water  flow- 
ing from  their  surfaces  in  rivulets.  Many  black  whales,  and 
various  kinds  of  seals,  were  seen  this  day.  We  saw  no  black 
whales  farther  to  the  eastward. 

From  Clapperton  Island  we  had  a  view  of  a  ridge  of  hills, 
which,  from  their  direction,  appeared  to  be  a  continuation  of 
those  on  the  west  side  on  Franklin  Bay.  The  island  itself,  like 
the  neighbouring  coast,  is  composed  of  limestone,  and  many 
detached  rocks  skirt  it,  rising  from  water  that  is  beautifully 
clear.  When  we  landed  there  was  a  strong  current  setting  to 
tiie  eastward,  rouni  the  end  of  the  island,  but  it  ceased  at  four 
P.M.,  the  time  of  low  water,  and  was  probably  produced  by 
the  ebb  setting  out  of  some  of  Se  inlets  of  Cape  Parry.  In 
the  evening  the  ice  made  a  noise  so  like  the  regular  firing  of 
half-minute  guns,  as  to  excite,  at  first,  an  idea  that  we  heard 
the  guns  of  a  ship.  The  temperature  at  six  o'clock  in  the 
evening  was  as  high  as  74°  in  the  shade. 

v^lappenon  isiana  hcs  in 


iiuuc 


July.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


201 


the  longitude  of  Fort  Franklin,  from  which  it  is  distant  three 
hundred  and  thirteen  miles  in  a  straight  line ;  but  the  distance 
between  the  nearer  part  of  the  Great  Bear  Lake  and  the  Arctic 
bea  here,  does  not  much  exceed  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles, 
iaking  advantage  of  a  light  breeze  and  very  fine  weather, 
we  embarked  at  midnight,  and  crossed  over  to  the  east  side  of 
the  bay,  passing  through  some  heavy  streams  of  ice  by  rather 
intricate  channels.  At  half  past  five  in  the  morn- 
ing  of  the  25th,  we  landed  on  a  point  of  the  main  Tuesday,  25th. 
shore,  and  Mr.  Kendall  took  observations  for  three  sets  of 
iunars.     On  re-embarking  we  proceeded  a  few  miles  further, 
when  a  heavy  gale  of  wind  suddenly  springing  up,  we  ran  for 
shelter  into  a  small  creek  at  the  extremity  of  a  cape,  which  I 
n^^S      fiu'}^^  distinguished  traveller  Captain  G.  F.  Lyon, 
II    ,  ^"e  bay  which  lies  betwixt  it  and  Cape  Parry,  was 
called  Darnley,  in  honour  of  the  Earl  of  Darnley.     The  dis- 
tance from  Clapperton  Island  to  Cape  Lyon  is  fourteen  miles. 
Ihe  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cape  Lyon  presents 
a  surface  varied  by  gently  swelling  eminences,  covered  with  a 
grassy  sward,  and  intersected  by  several  narrow  ridges  of 
naked  trap  rocks,  rising  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  general  level.  The  trap  ridges,  when  they  reach  the  coast, 
lorm  high  chffs,  and  the  clay-slate  and  limestone  lie  in  nearly 
horizontal  strata  beneath  them.     The  view  inland  was  termi- 
nated by  the  range  of  hills  which  we  had  seen  at  the  bottom 
ot  Darnley  Bay,  to  which  the  name  of  Melville  Range  was 
now  given,  in  honour  of  the  Right  Honourable  the  Lord  Vis- 
count Melville. 

From  the  top  of  the  highest  trap-hill,  near  the  extremity  of 
the  cape,  we  saw  some  heavy  ice  to  seaward,  but  with  enough 
of  open  water  for  the  passage  of  a  ship ;  and,  occasionally, 
during  our  stay,  there  was  an  appearance  of  land  to  the  north- 
westward, occupying  two  points  of  the  compass ;  but  we  were 
uncertain  whether  it  might  not  be  a  fog-bank  hanging  over  a 
field  of  ice.  If  It  was  land,  it  could  not  be  less  than  twenty- 
hve  or  thirty  miles  distant,  and  must,  from  the  portion  of  the 
horizon  it  occupied,  be  a  large  island.  Upon  the  summit  of 
the  hill  we  erected  a  pile  of  stones,  and  deposited  another  letter 
lor  Captain  Parry,  containing  a  short  account  of  our  proceed- 

A  gale  of  wind  detained  us  two  days  at  Cape  Lyon,  during 
which  Ooligbuck  supplied  us  with  rein-deer  meat,  and  Mr^ 
Kendall  obtained  several  sets  of  Iunars.     The  latitude  of  our 

""^."SK"*'^^^  T'"'?  "i*^*"^^  ™^"^*^"  observations,  was 
, — g.,?iuv,  iry  lunsi  uistuiicus,  122    i)l   W 

26 


202 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


The  temperature  of  the  air,  during  the  gale,  was  about  45", 
that  of  the  water  35°.  During  our  stay  at  Cape  Lyon  the 
tides  were  regular,  but  the  rise  and  fall  were  short  of  twenty 
inches.  At  midnight  on  the  26th  of  July,  the  sun's  lower  limb 
was  observed  to  touch  the  horizon  for  the  first  time  since  our 
arrival  on  the  coast.  Some  old  winter  houses  were  seen  in 
our  walks,  but  we  perceived  no  indications  of  the  Esquimaux 
having  recently  visited  this  quarter. 

The  gale  moderated  on  the  27th,  and  at  eight 
Thunday,  27th.  ^^  ^^^  evening  it  was  sufficiently  abated  to  per- 
mit us  to  proceed  on  our  voyage.  After  rowing  about  two 
miles,  the  horns  of  a  deer  were  seen  over  a  rock  at  the  sum- 
mit of  a  cliff,  on  which  M'Leay,  the  coxswain  of  the  Union, 
landed  and  killed  it.  This  poor  animalhad  been  previously 
wounded  by  an  Esquimaux  arrow,  which  had  broken  its  shoul- 
der bone.  The  iagged  bone-head  of  the  arrow  was  buried 
in  the  flesh,  and  its  copper  point  bent  up  where  it  had  struck 
the  bone.  The  wound  was  open,  and  seemed  to  have  been 
inflicted  at  least  a  fortnight  before,  but  the  animal  was  still 
fat  The  extremity  of  Cape  Lyon  lies  about  three  miles  north- 
east of  the  encampment  we  had  left,  and  in  its  neighbourhood 
the  cliffs  form  bold  head-lands  and  several  small  rocky  islands. 
Soon  after  rounding  it  we  came  to  a  projecting  point,  consist- 
ing of  cliffs  of  limestone,  in  which  there  was  a  remarkable 
cave,  opening  to  the  sea  by  an  archway,  fifty  feet  high  and 
twenty  wide.  The  walls  of  the  cavern  were  two  hundred 
feet  high,  and  a  lai^e  circular  aperture  in  the  roof  gave  free 
admission  to  the  day-light.  Mr.  Kendall  named  this  point  af- 
ter Mr.  Pearce,  a  particular  friend  of  his. 

The  night  was  fine  but  cold,  the  temperature  having  fallen 
to  35"  soon  after  we  started,  and  at  midnight  the  sun  sunk  for 
ne.Tly  half  an  hour  beneath  the  horizon.  We  passed  much 
heavy  stream-ice,  and  towards  the  morning  a  quantity  of  new, 
or,  as  the  seamen  term  it,  "  bay  ice,"  having  formed  on  the 
surface  on  the  sea,  the  boats  were  so  much  retarded  that  we 
put  ashore  at  four  o'clock  of  the  28th,  to  wait  un- 
Friday,  28th.  ^jj  ^^^  increasing  heat  of  the  day  dissolved  it.  The 
point  on  which  we  landed  was  named  after  Admiral  Sir  Ri- 
chard Godwin  Keats,  G.C.B.,  Governor  of  Greenwich  Hospi- 
tal, and  lies  in  latitude  69°  49'  N.,  and  longitude  1 22°  W.,  being 
about  eighteen  miles  distant  from  our  encampment  on  Cape 
Lyon.  The  rocks  at  Point  Keats  consist  of  flesh-coloured 
sandstone.  The  Melville  range  of  hills  approaches  there  within 
eight  or  ten  miles  of  the  sea,  and  the  intervening  country  is 
travei'sed  by  ridges  of  greenstone.    On  the  coast  irom  ->-apc 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


303 


July.] 

Lyon  to  Point  Keats  there  is  a  line  of  large  drift  timber,  evi- 
dently thrown  up  by  the  waves,  about  twelve  feet  perpendicu- 
lar height,  above  the  ordinary  spring  tides :  a  sufficient  proof 
ot  the  sea  being  nearly  clear  of  ice  at  the  time  it  was  thrown 
up;  lor  the  presence  of  any  considerable  quantity,  even  of 
stream-ice,  prevents  the  waves  from  rising  high.  After  two 
hours  halt,  the  bay-ice  having  dissolved  we  re-embarked 

From  Cape  Lyon  to  Point  Keats  the  coast  runs  nearly  east: 
after  quitting  the  latter  we  found  it  trending  a  little  to  the 
southward,  and  from  a  point,  which  was  named  in  honour  of 
John  Deas  Thompson,  Esq.,  Commissioner  of  His  Majesty's 
XNavy,  it  has  nearly  a  south-east  direction.    We  landed  a  little 
to  the  eastward  of  Point  Deas  Thompson,  to  take  a  meridian 
observation  for  latitude,  in  a  small  bay,  bounded  by  cliffs  of 
Iiniestone,  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  high,  in  which  the  waves 
had  sculptured  some  beautiful  Gothic  arches.    From  the  sum- 
mit  of  the  chffs  we  saw  a  dark  appearance  in  the  eastern  hori- 
zon, but  it  was  too  indistinct  to  permit  us  to  decide  whether  it 
was  land  or  merely  a  fog-bank.  To  the  eastward  of  these  cliffs 
the  coast  decreased  in  height,  and,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles 
we  passed  a  small  river,  which  was  named  after  Francis  Pal- 
grave,  Esq.    Near  this  river,  on  the  summit  of  a  cliff,  which 
was  twenty-five  feet  high,  we  noticed  several  large  logs  of  drift 
timber,  with  some  hummocks  of  gravel,  that  appeared  to  have 
been  thrown  up  by  the  waves.    A  portion  of  the  Melville 
Kangelies  within  three  miles  of  the  shore  there;  and  one  of 
Its  most  remarkable  hills  was  named  after  my  esteemed  friend 
VVilliam  Jackson  Hooker,  LL.D.,  Regius  Professor  of  Botany 
in  the  University  of  Glasgow ;  and  another  after  Colonel  Colby 
of  the  Hoyal  Engineers,  one  of  the  Members  of  the  Board  of 
Longitude.     About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  came  to 
a  stream  flowing  from  a  lake,  and  as  it  was  an  excellent  boat 
harbour,  we  entered  it  and  encamped.    It  was  named  Roscoe 
eu  ^^  eloquent  historian  of  the  Medici ;  and  a  conical  hill 
of  the  jyielville  Range,  visible  from  its  mouth,  received  the 
name  of  the  venerable  geographer  Major  Rennel. 

We  passed  this  day  through  heavier  and  more  crowded 
streams  of  ice  than  any  we  had  previously  seen  on  the  voyage 
The  navigation  amongst  it  was  tedious  and  difficult,  and  just 
beiore  we  put  ashore  much  motion  was  imparted  to  it  by  a 
fresh  south-west  wind.     The  temperature  durine  the  day  va- 

*>  /'^To^.^"  *^T  ^f  •  .  '^'?"  '"'^"^•^  «^  ^^'''^^  Ri^er  lies  in  la. 
titude  69°  41' N.,  longitude  121°  2'  W.,  r  ■  >,  forty-eight  miles 
distant  from  Cape  Lyon. 


(I 


204  SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES       [1826. 

We  embarked  on  the  29th,  with  a  fair  wind; 
Saturday,  29th.  ^^^  ^^ie  ice  lay  so  close,  that  we  could  not  ven- 
ture to  set  more  than  a  reefed  foresail,  and  were  ultimately 
obliged  to  lower  the  sail  entirely,  and  to  find  a  passage  through 
ice  with  oars  and  poles.  The  pieces  of  ice  were  of  sufficient 
magnitude  to  deserve  the  name  of  floes,  and  were  sometimes 
several  fathoms  thick.  They  were  all  moving  before  the 
breeze,  which  caused  them  to  arrange  themselves  in  the  form 
of  streams  parallel  to  the  coast,  and,  consequently,  left  lanes  of 
open  water  in  the  direction  of  our  course.  These  lanes,  how- 
ever, were  continually  changing  their  form;  and,  on  several 
occasions,  when  we  had  been  tempted  by  the  favourable  ap- 
pearance of  a  piece  of  open  water  to  venture  from  the  coast, 
we  had  great  difficulty  in  extricating  ourselves  from  the  ice 
■which  closed  around  us.  The  thickness  of  the  ice  led  me  to 
conclude  that  the  sea  had  not  been  long  open  in  this  quarter; 
and  I  observed  that  the  vegetation  was  later  on  this  part  of  (he 
coast  than  on  the  western  side  of  Cape  Parry. 

For  the  first  twelve  miles  after  leaving  our  encampment,  the 
coast  was  low  and  sandy  ;  the  Melville  Range  still  forming  the 
back-ground,  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five  miles  from  the  sea. 
The  low  beaches  were  terminated  by  a  rocky  headland,  which 
obtained  from  us  the  name  of  De  Witt  Clinton,  as  a  testimony 
of  our  sense  of  the  urbanity  and  love  of  science  which  had 
prompted  his  Excellency  the  Governor  of  the  state  of  New 
York*  to  show  so  much  attention  to  the  members  of  the  Ex- 
pedition, in  their  passage  through  his  government.  Some  miles 
beyond  Point  De  Witt  Clinton  we  came  to  a  steep  cliff,  where 
the  ice  was  so  closely  packed  that  we  could  not  force  a  pas- 
sage. The  cargoes  were,  therefore,  carried  along  the  foot  of 
the  cliff,  and  the  boats  launched  for  a  few  yards  over  a  piece 
of  ice.  In  this  operation,  the  shelving  base  of  an  iceberg, 
which  had  formed  under  the  cliff,  and  still  adhered  to  it,  but 
which  was  undermined  by  the  waves,  gave  way  whilst  several 
of  the  men  were  standing  upon  it ;  but,  fortunately,  it  did  not 
overset,  and  they  received  no  injury,  as  it  was  large  enough  to 
support  them  in  the  water.  At  nine  o'clock,  a.m.,  we  were 
stopped  by  the  closencs  of  the  ice,  and  put  ashore  until  the 
tide  or  wind  should  produce  some  change. 

The  tides,  since  leaving  the  Mackenzie,  had  never  been 
observed  to  have  a  greater  rise  than  eighteen  inches:  but  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  our  encampment,  the  sea-wrack  and  lines 

*  Sinco  thu  above  passosfe  was  written,  tlie  world  has  had  to  mourn  the 
loss  of  tlj-s  distinguislicd  etatesman  and  philosopher. 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


205 


July.] 

of  drift  timber  indicated  a  washing  of  the  sea  to  the  perpen- 

dicular  height  of  twenty  feet.     The  country  in  this  vicinity 

consists  of  a  bluish  hmestone,  interstratified  with  slate-clay : 

and  naked  and  rugged  ridges  of  trap  rocks  rise  in  various 

places  above  the  general  level.     The  soil  is  composed  of  clay 

and  hmestone  gravel.     The  latitude  of  our  encampment  was 

ascertained,  by  meridian  observation,  to  be  69"^  29'  N^;  its  lonei- 

ude  was  120«  20' W.;  and  its  distance  from  Roscoe  River  wis 
twenty-five  miles. 

A  breeze  of  wind  from  the  land  having  opened 

a  passage  two  miles  wide,  we  embarked  at  two  ^""''ay'  30th. 

o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  30th,  and  ran  seven  miles  under 

sail ;  when,  having  overtaken  the  ice  which  had  passed  in  the 

night,  we  found  It  too  closely  packed  to  allow  us  to  proceed. 

In  making  for  the  beach,  the  Union  narrowly  escaped  being 

crushed  by  two  large  floes  of  ice,  which  came  together  with 

violence  just  as  she  was  about  to  run  betwixt  them.     The  Dol- 

phin  had  sailed  through  the  same  passage  not  two  minutes 

betore.     hrom  an  eminence  near  our  encampment,  we  had  the 

unpleasant  view  of  a  sea  covered,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 

n'l     rf'  excepting  a  few  lanes  of  open  water  far  to  seaward. 

1  he  tide  tell  here  seven  inches  in  the  morning,  and  eleven  in 

the  evening,  although  the  north-west  wind  increased  in  the 

afternoon  to  a  pretty  strong  gale.     The  greater  fall  of  the  water 

with  that  wind,  showing  that  it  found  an  exit  to  the  eastward, 

relieved  us  from  an  apprehension,  which  we  had  begun  to 

entertain,  that  we  were  entering  a  deep  bay,  which  miSht  be 

encumbered  by  the  drift-ice  for  many  days.     Much  ice  drove 

past  us  m  the  course  of  the  day,  before  a  west-north-west  wind 

Its  progress  being  only  slightly  checked  for  a  time  by  the  flood 

tide.     Recent  footsteps  of  a  small  party  of  Esquimaux  were 

f^I^^^  ir^  ^%^^^'    ^"''  encampment  was  situated  in  latitude 
69°  24' N.,  and  longitude  120°  03' W. 

Embarking  on  the  31st,  at  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  we  succeeded  in  getting  about  six  Monday  3 1st. 
miles  through  the  ice:  when  we  were  again  obliged  to  put 
asfiore  at  the  month  of  a  small  river,  which  was  named  after 
James  Buchanan,  Esq.,  his  Majesty's  Consul  at  New  York 
whose  friendly  attention  to  the  officers  of  the  Expedition  well 
entitled  him  to  their  gratitude.  After  waiting  for  awhile  the  tide 
loosened  the  ice  a  little,  and  we  made  some  progress  by  debark- 
ing upon  the  floes  and  pushing  them  apart  with  poles,  until  a 
sufficient  opening  was  made.  This  operation  was  tedious,  and 
not  devoi  1  of  hazard  to  the  boats,  arising  from  the  rotatory 
— i.,.,„i.^  5''vii  lO  tuc  iiuus,  by  ine  pressure  ol  the 


S06 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


body  of  the  ice.  At  noon,  an  observation  for  latitude  was  ob- 
tained on  a  projecting  point,  which  was  named  after  William 
Tinney,  Esq.,  of  Lincoln's  Inn.  At  three  in  the  afternoon,  our 
progress  being  again  arrested  by  the  compactness  of  the  ice, 
we  hauled  the  boats  upon  the  beach,  and  M'Leay  having 
killed  a  fat  buck  rein-deer,  the  party  had  an  excellent  sup- 
per after  the  fatigues  of  the  day.  The  length  of  the  day's 
voyage  was  twenty-two  miles ;  the  latitude  of  our  encampment 
69^  17i'  N.,  and  its  longitude  1 19°  27'  W.  The  coast  line  in 
this  quarter  is  lower,  few  of  the  cliffs  exceeding  forty  feet  in 
height,  and  there  is  a  greater  proportion  of  flat  beach  than  oc- 
curs nearer  Cape  Lyon.  The  ground  is  strewed  with  gravel, 
apparently  arising  from  a  limestone  conglomerate  which  exists 
there  in  considerable  quantity.  The  Melville  Range  is  within 
four  or  five  miles  of  the  shore  at  this  place,  and  does  not  rise 
more  than  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Many  small  rivulets 
flow  from  the  rising  grounds  into  the  sea,  through  wide  gra- 
velly beds,  indicating  that  at  times  they  swell  into  large  tor- 

A  iight  westerly  wind  having  opened  a  narrow  channel  be- 
tween the  ice  and  the  shore,  we  embarked  early  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  1st  of  August,  and,  three  miles  from  our 
August  1st.  encampment,  came  to  a  river,  which  discharged 
itself  by  various  shallow  mouths,  separated  by  sand  banks.  Its 
westernmost  and  easternmost  mouths  were  five  miles  apart ; 
and  the  latter,  which  was  the  largest,  was  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  wide.  Although  the  outlet  of  this  river  is  so  much 
barred  up,  it  discharges  a  considerable  volume  of  water,  and 
probably  has  its  sources  in  the  hills  which  are  visible  from  the 
northern  shores  of  Great  Bear  Lake.  It  was  named  after  John 
Wilson  Croker,  Esq.,  Secretary  to  the  Admiralty.  Further 
on  we  had  a  view  of  a  high  island,  lying  ten  or  twelve  miles 
from  the  shore,  which  received  the  appellation  of  Sir  George 
Clerk's  Island.  M'Leay,  who  was  now  acknowledged  to  be 
our  best  hunter,  was  sent  in  pursuit  of  a  deer,  which  we  saw 
from  the  boats,  and  being  successful,  we  landed  to  cook  our 
breakfast,  after  having  rowed  twenty  miles  in  the  course  of  the 
morning.  An  observation  for  latitude  was  obtained  a  mile  fur- 
ther at  a  point  which  was  named  after  Waller  Clifton,  Esq., 
Secretary  to  the  Victualling  Board.  Tl  e  coast  here  makes  a 
turn  to  the  southward,  and  about  six  miles  further  on,  where  it 
resumes  its  easterly  direction,  a  river  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide  flows  into  the  sea,  betwixt  two  sand  hills.  To  this  river 
Mr.  Kendall  gave  the  name  of  Inman,  out  of  respect  to  the 
Revemnd  tod  Learned  Professor  of  the  Royal  Naval  College 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


207 


August.] 

Ifh'^wtT!!-*'-  .-^  '^"•''*  *^'"'  ^b°«*  ten  miles  distant,  in  a 

Cal  So  ier/rh^M  "r '^  ^^^^  '^^  '«*«  President ;  the 
Rarni;    '^i^'  ^  ^ly  distinguished  Sir  Humphry  Daw 

fcctmped^rra  ?'J^^^^ 

Royal  Navy,  under  whose  command  he  sailed  inHis  Ma?estW« 
ship  Spartan.     It  ,s  situated  in  latitude  69o  osT'S.,  b^ 

The  coast  from  Cape  Clifton  to  Point  Wise  consists  nfUm^ 
stone  in  horizontal  layers,  forming  cliffi,  which  are    eDamT/cI 

Skirted  to  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  bv  rockv  «hn.l« 

fo  Id^r^fr* ""''''  ""y^'"  f«^  o"r  boats, It  not^nou^h' 
to  admit  the  heavy  ,ce.     This  was  the  cause  of  our  makiS 

fearl'^croTtri*''"  T  ^''  '^^"  K''  ^^P^^*  ^ "^  "^e  ap! 
pearance  of  the  ice  in  the  morning.     The  cliffs  at  Point  Wife 

are  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  from  their  summits,  the  err 

peared  closely  packed,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach    no  lanL" 

of  open  water  being  visible.     It  was,  however  composed  of 

p^ces   and  not  a  continuous  field,  for  we  could  distb?«yne?. 

ceive  that  severa  of  the  hummocks  it  inclosed  were  in  Z^^^^ 

clo  ei:  oa  ked  :  T  ^"""^  '^'  ^^^^^^  *^«*  we  saw^ce  "o 
crosely  packed,  as  to  appear  impenetrable  to  a  shin  when  im 

pelled  by  a  good  breeze,  but  it  is  necessary  to  stati^that  cvSi* 
It.  l^T^^'^^^'  height,  we  could  not  tell  wkh  ceSyIhe 
state  of  the  ice  six  miles  off;  scattered  pieces  at  that  dis  ance 
assuming  the  appearance  of  a  close  pack.  The  weather  tWa 
day  was  fine,  the  temperature  varying  from  43°  to  50- 

Soon  after  settin- out  on  the  2d,  the  tempera-  „  * 
ture,  whic.  had  been  about  40°  throughout  the  "^^'^^sday,  2d. 
night,  fell  to  34°,  and  a  fog  came  on.  The  wind  also  fr^sbpn 
jng  and  putting  the  ice  in  mention,  the  boats  rece^^td"^^^^^^^^^ 
blows;  but  we  continued  to  advance,  though  slowly  and  wilh 
muchcaution  Aboutten  miles  from  our  encampm2w"p^^^^^^^ 
Uie  mouth  of  a  small  river,  which  was  named  after  cSS 

ParTon'  h'  '^w  ^'^'^  ^""^^  ^^^^"'^  ^»  Command  to  Ca£ 
Parry,  on  his  third  voyage  of  discovery.    Towards  noon  the 

afitul'esoTe'^rVh""^  ^r^*^^-^  was  ^bEdt 
wiiiuae  b8   56  JN.     Three  miles  further  on  we  arrived  at  thft 

rHl''^.''-'*f  ^*  '^""^^  "^e^'  ^hich  flowed  over  a  rock? 
bottom,  betwixt  two  sand  hills,  and  joined  the  sea  by  seveS 
mouths,  separated  bv  shnaiB     t^  lur.  _•_._  «»    ..  "l  °^^^"^» 


208 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


|!   si/ 


the  name  of  his  friend,  Lieutenant  Harding,  of  the  Royal 
Navy  Five  miles  beyond  this  river,  on  the  extremity  ol  a 
rockv  cape,  the  Esquimaux  had  constructed  several  store- 
houses, oY  drift  timber,  which  were  filled  with  dried  deers- 
meat  and  seal-blubber ;  along  with  which,  cooking  kettles,  and 
lamps  made  of  potstone,  copper-headed  spears,  and  various 
other  articles,  were  carefully  laid  up.  The  ashes  of  the  re- 
centlv  extineuished  fires  showed  that  the  natives  had  qmtted 
this  place  only  a  few  days,  and  we  felt  much  pleasure  in 
figurine  to  ourselves  the  surprise  and  joy  with  which  they 
would  behold,  on  their  return,  the  iron  utensils  that  we  depo- 
sited  in  the  store-houses  for  their  use.  The  cape  received  the 
isame  of  "  Young,"  after  the  learned  Secretary  to  the  board 

of  Longitude.  ;,  ,  „  •  ,  i 

Froni  Cape  Young  we  had  a  view  of  the  sea  thickly  co- 
vered with  ice,  of  a  greater  thickness  than  any  we  had  pre- 
viously  encountered;  and  we  perceived  that  the'-e  was  a 
deeply  indented  bay  lying  in  our  route,  and  so  failed  vvith  ice, 
that  our  only  method  of  passing  it  appeared  to  be  by  keeping 
close  to  the  shore,  although  under  the  disadvantage  of  trebling 
the  distance.  The  coast  in  this  quarter  is  similar  to  that  which 
we  had  passed  on  the  two  or  three  preceding  days,  and  is 
formed  of  high  limestone  cliffs,  with  intervening  shingly 
beaches ;  but  the  country  is  still  more  barren,  the  quantity  of 
limestone  debris  almost  excluding  any  soil.  Flat  limestone 
rocks  having  only  a  few  inches  of  water  upon  them,  skirt  the 
beach,  and  terminate  like  a  wall  in  four  or  five  fathoms  wa- 
ter The  ice  was  closely  packed  against  these  rocks,  and  for 
five  miles  after  passing  Cape  Young,  we  made  a  way  for  the 
boats  only  by  the  constant  use  of  the  hatchet  and  ice-chisel, 
and  gladly  encamped  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  after  a 
day's  voyage  of  thirty-one  miles.  A  herd  of  twenty  rein-deer 
were  grazing  on  the  beach,  but  our  hunters  were  too  much  fa- 
tigued to  go  in  pursuit  of  them.  The  encampment  was  situ- 
ated in  latitude  68°  53' N.,  and  longitude  116°  50' W.  The 
temperature  varied  in  the  course  of  the  day  from  34°  to  50  . 
We  observed  that  the  ice  continued  to  dissolve,  but  not  so  ra- 
pidly as  in  the  month  of  July,  when  the  sun  did  not  sink  be- 
low the  horizon.  .  „  •  e 
We  resumed  our  operations  on  the  morning  ot 
Thursday,  3rd.  ^^^  g^j  ^^  ^j^g  ^5^^!  hour,  and  with  great  labour 
made  a  passage  for  the  boats.  At  eleven  o'clock  we  landed 
to  refresh  ourselves  on  a  projecting  point  at  the  western  en- 
trance of  a  deep  bay,  having  previously  passed  a  river  which 
was  about  one  hundred  yards  wide,  but  very  shallow.     Alter 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


209 


August.] 

e^ot"" Ve  m.?h'r'rr^  '  "*'"^'^"  observation  in  latitude 
8I0V.  piT  P^t  .''^^^S^'J'f  "^  for  some  time  made  very 
misfone  which  ^h  I  °'''-  f  ^  i^'  ^'^  *=°"^'«t^d  of  beds  oY 
mTsses  of'il  f  '  f '"""g  '"/^  ^^^  ^^t^'*'  ^^re  covered  with 
We  were  theefnrf  "^  ^^  ^^e  pressure  of  the  pack  outside 
w  J      !i  7^^'^^'ore,  compelled  to  work  our  way  in  deeoer 

sTot  iyX    eTto'the^h*^'  ".''^?J^-'  b,  turns, Ve^re'S 
oiv^ii<jii_y  exposed  to  the  hazard  of  be  nc  overset  bv  nipr*>Q /^f 

when  „" .f^!  ''T'S«  °f  "=  whalers,  the  ice  is  said  to  calf, 
tTmesoT„!ffl.'    »''"'"''?'*  r  ""'  ■"='"•'"■  »"d  they  are  somi- 

to  dSm  hwi;  f,''«."'>'Ph"'  was,  at  one  time,  nearly  crushed 
had*^  reached  ilJi?""^  "' ^'"'  '''"^"  ^ut,  fortunately,  she 
thev  rtconed  .,  ffl  ■  TT','''""  ='  ""^y  <^'""«  i"  ""tact  and 
.h!^i,  5      ?  •  ".  V^''''^'  '»  '<'ave  a  passage  for  her  exit  Wr 

per  tnks  "rhl""  "f  ?g  ""^^e  of  ai„  cracks  !n  t'he"" 
See  of  ih.  S'  ^l  i  i"*^  !"2l'"''  ">e  waves  acting  on  the 
suriace  of  the  floes,  had,  by  thaWng  them  irreeularlv  formpd 
akes  of  fresh  water  of  som'e  extent  upon  theTrfSS  When 

e  ve'sKem  tit'r"  '"^"'«='^"'  "'^P*'^-  weavaiierTr" 
sevesot  themto  make  some  progress  in  our  vovaee  and  in 

th»  way  we  frequently  sailed  o'ver^  considerableThfckness  of 

ouHof4°foind''alk''„-/?'''''  advanced  five  miles,  when  to 
crosstoZ.  ofh»r  ti  flT"  ™'"'  '"''ich  permitted  us  to 
tnTfiao  ^u°  N    "''^''f  "?e  hay,  where  we  encamped  in  lati- 

fte  cou«e  of  the'd^v  "hf"''"  V«°  °3"^-  ha""!  mailed  M 
I^l^T?.      u      ^^l  '''ghteen  miles  and  a  half.  The  bav  was 

G  A  C  Stu„'"rr?"'  "f  Major-General  the  HmroYraWe 
u.  A.  c.  Mapylton,  Chairman  of  the  Victualline  Board  •  ind 

caterwUh  "a'Lr'"'  «™T?  "^  P'^'"'™''  th^f  it  clmuni' 
cates  with  a  long,  narrow  lake.    A  few  miles  from  the  coi,t 

the  land  rises  from  three  to  five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea 
smalKs"''  Th7Pr;P"""  ''T""'^  olilTs,  and  cha» 

we  w°etr'stt\"'='  "'"^'■"^^•-  ^"'^*'"^''  an'S  *  t 

h'oldtTt^ea'L^tr^^r  J.  "'Jl^'^^  l-oPf  "f  "«• 
walked  seven  or  ei.*Vmlii  ;:;';.:'tsi;r;d  iSr^il^hrbuJ 


27 


SIO 


8IC0ND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1828. 


11  ml-' 


I  was  disappointed.    In  my  way  1  had  occasion  to  wade 
through  a  small  lake,  when  two  birds,  about  the  size  of  the 
northern  diver,  and  apparently  of  that  genus,  swart,  with  bold 
and  angry  gestures,  to  within  a  few  yards  of  me,  evidently  very 
impatient  of  any  intruder  on  their  domain.    Their  necks  were 
of  a  beautiful  pale  yellow  colour,  their  bodies  black  with  white 
specks.     I  considered  them  to  belong  to  a  species  not  yet  de- 
scribed, and  regretted  that,  having  left  my  gun  at  the  tent,  it 
was  not  in  my  power  to  procure  one  of  them  for  a  specimen. 
Embarking  at  three  a.m.  on  the  4th,  we  found 
Friday,  4th.      jj^^  difficulty  in  reaching  the  eastern  cape  of 
Stapylton  Bay,  the  wiiu.  having  formed  a  narrow  channel  be- 
tween the  ice  and  the  shore  in  the  night.  The  temperature  was 
low,  and  in  the  morning  some  new  ice  was  formed  which  we 
easily  broke.   We  noticed  several  eider  ducks  breaking  a  way 
through  the  thin  ice  for  their  young  ones  with  their  wings,  and 
in  this  operation  they  made  greater  progress  than  we  did  m 

the  boats.  .  , 

On  reaching  the  cape*  which  was  named  alter  Vice- Ad- 
miral Sir  William   Johnstone  Hope,  G.  C.  B.,  we    descried 
another  point  about  four  or  five  leagues  distant,  bearing  east- 
north-east,  the  intervening  bay  being  filled  with  closely  packed 
ice.    We  were  now  within  twelve  miles  of  Cape  Young,  after 
a  laborious  navigation  of  four  times  that  distance,  and  the  pros- 
pect of  another  bay,  equally  unpromising,  was  very  vexatious ; 
but  our  apprehensions  were  increased  by  the  view  of  a  continu- 
ous Hne  of  land,  extending  from  north-north-west  until  it  was 
hid  behind  the  nearer  cape,  which  bore  east-north-east,  for  we 
feared  that  it  might  prove  to  be  a  continuation  of  the  main 
shore.    Our  crews,  though  concerned  at  the  delay  that  so 
much  ice  was  likely  to  occasion,  set  about  overcoming  the  ob- 
stacle with  a  hearty  good  will,  and  after  an  intricate  and 
troublesome  navigation  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  amongst  the  ice, 
we  found  the  bottom  of  the  bay  more  open,  and  were  enabled 
to  cross  over  to  the  eastern  side  where  we  encamped.    This 
bay  received  the  name  of  the  eminent  astronomer  James 

South,  Esq.  ,     ,  .  ,  , 

Mr.  Kendall  having  gone  to  ascertain  from  the  higher  grour  1 
the  trending  of  the  coast,  returned  in  about  two  hours  w 
the  cheering  intelligence  that  the  land  to  the  northward 
was  unconnected  with  the  main  shore,  and  that  he  had  seen 
the  latter  inclii/mg  to  the  south-east,  with  a  much  more  open 
sea  than  we  ha<^.  iately  been  accustomed  to.     As  soon  as  sup- 

*  Its  latitude  was  aacer?  Jnud  by  meridional  observationb  to  be  68°  58'  N. 


Auguit.] 


or  TH£  POLAR  SKA. 


911 


camped  and  whirl;  ,^       'he  cape  on  winch  we  were  cn- 
Dorth-north-wesTti M^it  was  lii  in  ?h  t"" '""''  '■"""'"«  f™"" 

FranklinWormer'Fvn/HV  **""  P'''""^  ^^^«6^  ^''  «»  Captain 

I  bestoiei  iL  r'    ^^^  strait  separating  the  two  shores 

and  IJ?-  .  If  •  ''•  °f?"':  excellent  little  boats,  the  Dolphin 
and  Ur  ...  It  varies  in  width  from  twelve  to  twenty  miles  and 
to  the  eastward  semed  to  contain  merely  detached  sTreams  of 
V  Itwtd  hv'  thW^T'  ^P^.°^^^^^  ''  -  vett  bTitrthe 
TxtSn     !7s  a  v   rVhf  i?    'd^^  fi'iV'g  South's  Bay.and 

wa'd  t  f^f '  ^r  '  -"^^^i-  ofTpTwr^S  ■ 

wards  Wollaston  Land.     The  packed  ice  which  we  had  see^ 
Immg  the  coast  between  Point  Clifton  and  Cape  Bexley  ma? 

ly  fe  pr;'£  th/"  ''r'^'r  ^^  ''^  re^X2 

"/  ^dpiain  rarry,  that  the  western  sides  of  seas  and  inl^fa  in 

hose  latitudes  are  more  encumbered  with  ice  t^ian  the  oppo^^ 

site  sides ;  and  ,t  is  very  probable  that  a  ship  might  have  Znd 

a  passage  by  keeping  along  Wollaston  Lancl^^  an  opiS  which 

to  conrThe'f  n^r  ^^^"  ^^^"^  ^^P^  Be'xle;,  t^nd  S 
to  conhrm.     The  latitude  of  our  encampment  was  68°  58'  N 

and  Its  longitude  115°  47'  W.;  it  was  within  ten  miles  of  onr 

JwenTvTvl'm'f  *'•  P/k"^''"^"  night,  although  wThTdtvUed 
twenty-five  miles  m  the  course  of  the  day. 

Ihe  party  embarked  on  the  5th,  at  the  usual 
hour  m  the  morning,  with  their  spirits  pleasantly  S'^turday,  5th. 
excited  by  the  intelligence  of  the  favourable  trending  of  the 
coas^  communioted  by  Mr.  Kendall,  and  after  doubhng  C^^^^ 
Bexle:  ,  r  roceeded  under  sail,  before  a  west-north-west  w'nd 
with  a  rapid,  y  to  which  they  had  lately  been  unaccustomed 
tle^y^of  ho'ri  '"?  Tk'J^  ^?P,^  ^^^'^^  te^rminates  conttren 
han  three  hu^^^^^^^  ''  nowhere  more 

water  i^fwo  or  hi  At^^^^^'^^  '^^'  On  the  west  side,  the 
ZnTM  •  •/  ^^^^^  '^*^°'"'  <**^ep,  close  to  the  shore,  and  the 
land  attains  its  ereat^sf  *.I«vof;«/ u..  „  -x--_     •-'"""  ^P® 

bpoph      On  *k^  "    i  ^V  ". ■■■■"  "J  *  Sleep  nse  irom  the 

beach.     On  the  east  side  there  are  some  precipitous  cliffs,  bil 


i 


212 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


m 


the  coast  in  general  is  skirted  by  shelving  rocks.  No  soil  was 
seen  on  the  Cape,  nor  any  appearance  of  vegetation,  the  ground 
being  every  where  covered,  to  the  depth  of  a  foot,  by  fragments 
of  limestone,  which  are  detached  by  tb-  frost  from  the  solid 
strata  lying  beneath.  We  were  much  puzzled  at  first  with  the 
appearance  of  several  parallel  trenches,  a  foot  deep,  running 
for  a  great  distance  amongst  the  fragments,  but  on  examination 
they  wert  ascertained  to  originate  in  fissures  of  the  subjacent 
strata.  Much  quartz  being  intermixed  with  the  limestone  ol 
Cape  Bexley,  the  fragments  which  covered  the  ground  had, 
by  the  action  of  the  veather,  lost  most  of  the' softer  calcareous 
matter,  and  were  converted  into  a  kind  of  rasp,  very  annoying 
to  pedestrians,  being  capable  of  destroying  a  pair  of  stout 
English  shoes  in  a  walk  of  a  few  hours. 

At  eleven  o'clock  we  came  to  a  pack  of  ice  abutting  against 
the  shore,  but  while  we  halted  to  cook  breakfast,  the  wind 
opened  a  way  for  us.  In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  passed 
many  heavy  streams  of  ice,  separated  by  lanes  of  open  water, 
which  would  have  afforded  an  easy  passage  for  a  ship.  Hav- 
ing obtained  a  meridian  observation  for  latitude,  we  re-em- 
barked, and  pulled  for  five  miles  through  an  open  channel,  to 
Point  Cockburn,  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  bay,  which  appeared 
to  be  four  or  five  miles  deep,  and  to  be  quite  filled  with  dnft- 
ice.  Many  deer  were  seen  grazing  near  this  point,  but  we  did 
not  stop  to  send  a  hunter  in  pursuit  of  them.  We  afterwards 
crossed  several  other  indentations  of  the  coast,  skirted  by  reefs 
of  limestone  and  low  islets,  and  encamped  on  Chantry  Island, 
lying  close  to  the  main  shore,  in  latitude  68°  45'  N.,  longitude 
1 1 4°  23'  W.,  having  sailed  thirty-nine  miles  in  the  course  of 
the  day.  Two  islands,  lying  opposite  to  our  encampment,  re- 
ceived the  appellations  of  Manners  Sutton  and  Sir  Robert 
Listen's  Islands.  The  degree  of  motion  in  the  ice,  which 
was  drifting  between  these  islands  and  the  shore,  indicated 
a  stronger  current  of  both  flood  and  ebb  than  we  had  hitherto 

seen. 

On  the  6th,  we  commenced  the  day's  voyage  at 
Sunday,  6th.  ^^^^^  -^^  ^^^^  morning,  but  were  compelled  to  put 
ashore  soon  afterwards  by  a  stream  of  ice  barring  our  way. 
At  six  o'clock,  however,  the  flowing  tide  opened  it  sufficiently 
to  enable  us  to  push  the  boats  along  with  poles,  our  progress 
being  occasionally  facilitated  by  the  rocky  reefs,  which  kept  the 
heavier  masses  from  pressing  down  upon  us.  Much  of  the  ice 
lay  aground,  in  nine  fathoms,  but  none  of  it  rose  more  than 

6,^0  «t.  civ  foot-  oKnvp  tho  onrfnrf*  of  the  water.    We  estimated 
the  velocity  of  the  flood  tide,  off  some  of  the  rocky  points,  at 


August.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


213 


three  miles  an  hour,  and  at  such  places  we  had  much  trouble 
in  endeavounng  to  keep  the  boats  clear  of  the  drift ngice 
The  circular  motion  which  the  pieces  occasionally  acquired 

rndKn tt  ^'^'^"'V^  g-rdVinst,  and  hadle  n^o  de 
pended  on  the  tongues  of  ice,  which,  lying  deep  under  water 

Fmr:; '^^^^•"pp"' p^^*^  ^^^^^^ fl«^«  '<>  which  they  beioS 

from  coming  m  contact,  we  should  scarcely  have  ventured 
amongs  them.  We  did  not,  however,  entfrely  Lape  for 
t^unf^l""^  7"\  ^^"g^b^t^^en  a  floe  and  a  piece  tEa  lay 
Sh  K  ?  ^"'"'^  Jl''^^  **"*  «^  the  water  by  the  pressure. 
Wp  nnf  l^  ^^  °^*^"^  t'^^he^^  ^'^d  several  of  he?  planks 
We  put  ashore  on  a  small  island  to  repair  the  damage  and 

feTstJ^^^'^^K'^"  ^^•^  ^  "^-^'^  observaffin  fa 
the  m  in  1    t^-  ^^°*^e^'«'and,  lying  about  two  miles  from 
the  mam  land,  was  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Aylmw- 
Bourke  Lambert,  Esq.,  Vice-President  of  the  Linnean  SoSy 
The  sea  water  there  was  beautifully  clear  ^ 

tbv  L     "P^'*  ^'r^J  *^^  ^""'Ph'"  '^^'"g  ^g^'n  rendered  sea-wor- 

i£  If  P'-fu'^^^^u  ^",'  ''P^'S^  '""^  fi^e  ^•^•'  when  the  flood- 
tide  set  with  such  velocity  round  a  rocky  point,  and  broueht 

60  much  ice  with  it,  that  we  considered  it  pVdent  CtaXfe 
1  he  Violent  eddies  m  the  currents  there,  and  the  sudden  ap- 

foSw'of  r"""p  ""{ **^".*"?"Se  masses  of  ice,  reminded  us 
Thp  Si  ^^J^'f^  d^^"'Pt'«"  «f  Sc^'Wa  and  Charybdis. 
Ihe  length  of  the  day's  voyage  was  twenty-one  miles,  and  our 

uT^^^W     t".  f"^^'^  r  ^""^"^^  ^^°  32'  N.,  I'ongitudc 
?T    i     J-  ,  ^he  temperature  at  nine  p.m.  was  60». 
Mr.  Kendall  and  I  took  a  walk  of  some  miles  along  the  shore 
and  were  happy  to  observe  the  coast  inclining  to  the  south' 
ward,  although  no  doubt  now  existed  as  to  our  accomplishing 
the  voyage  sufficiently  early  to  allow  us  to  cross  the  barren 
grounds,  to  the  eastward  of  Great  Bear  Lake,  before  the 
cold  weather  set  in.     The  flowering  season  for  most  of  the 
plants  on  the  coast  was  already  past,  but  our  route  for  the  re- 
mamder  of  the  distance  to  Bear  Lake,  inclining  much  to  the 
southward,  would  naturally  have  the  effect  of  prolonging  tons 
the  duration  of  the  summer.    A  conspicuous  hill,  discovered  in 
our  waJk,  received  the  name  of  Mount  Barrow,  in  honour  of 
John  Barrow,  Esq.,  Secretary  to  the  Admiralty;  and  two 
islands  m  the  offing  were  named  after  Commanders  Bayfield 
and  Douglas  of  the  Royal  Navy,  to  both  of  whom  the  officers 
ot  the  Expedition  were  indebted  for  much  assistance  and  per- 
sonal kindness,  in  their  progress  through  Canada.  The  interior 
01  the  country  was  flat,  but  tho  Hm^cfnno  f^,^^A  «i;«%  ^_  ^u- 
shore  two  hundred  feet  high.    From  the  form  of  the  islands,  I 


214 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


was  led  to  believe  that  they  consisted  of  trap  rocks.  Wollas- 
ton  Land,  as  seen  from  the  encampment,  appeared  to  recede 
gradually  from  the  main,  and  it  sunk  under  the  horizon,  on  a 
north-east  bearing.  By  estimation,  the  most  easterly  part 
of  it  which  we  saw,  is  in  latitude  68°  45'  N.,  and  longitude 
113°  53'  W.  The  navigation  of  the  Dolphin  and  Cnion 
Straits  would  be  dangerous  to  ships,  from  the  many  sunken 
rocks  which  we  observed  near  the  southern  shore. 

Embarking  at  two  a.m.  on  the  7th,  we  crossed 
Monday,  7th.  ^  j^eply  indented  bay,  which  was  named  after 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Pasley,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  to  whose 
invention  we  owe  the  portable  bout,  named  tlie  Walnut-shell, 
which  we  carried  out  with  us.  On  the  east  side  of  Pasley 
Cove  there  are  some  bold  lime-stone  cliffs,  that  form  the  ex- 
tremity of  a  promontory,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of  Cape 
Krusenstern,  in  honour  of  the  distinguished  Russian  hydrogra- 
pher.  It  lies  in  latitude  68°  23'  N.,  longitude  113°  45'  W., 
and  is  the  most  eastern  part  of  the  main  land  which  we  coast- 
ed. From  a  cliff,  two  hundred  feet  high,  two  miles  to  the 
southward  of  Cape  Krusenstern,  we  had  a  distinct  view  of  the 
high  land  about  Inman's  Harbour,  on  the  western  side  of  Cape 
Barrow,  which  was  the  most  easterly  land  seen  on  this  voyage, 
and  lies  in  longitude  1 1 1°  20'  W.  The  space  between  Capes 
Barrow  and  Krusenstern  is  crowded  with  islands. 

By  entering  Geoi^e  the  Fourth's  Coronation  Gulf  at  Cape 
Krusenstern,  we  connected  the  discoveries  of  this  voyage  with 
those  made  by  Captain  FrankUn  on  his  former  expedition,  and 
had  the  honour  of  completing  a  portion  of  the  north-west 
passage,  for  which  the  reward  of  five  thousand  pounds  was  es- 
tablished by  his  Majesty's  Order  in  Council,  but  as  it  was  not 
contemplated,  in  framing  the  Order,  that  the  discovery  should 
be  made  from  west  to  east,  and  in  vessels  so  small  as  the  Dol- 
phin and  Union,  we  could  not  lay  claim  to  the  pecuniary  re- 
ward. 

While  the  party  were  at  breakfast  I  visited  Mount  Barrow, 
which  is  a  steep  hill  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  surrounded 
by  a  moat  fifty  or  sixty  feet  wide  and  twenty  deep,  and  having 
a  flat  summit  bounded  by  precipices  of  limestone.  Three 
banks,  like  causeways,  afforded  the  means  of  crossing  the  moat, 
and  the  hill  altogether  formed  a  remarkably  complete  natural 
fortification.  The  Esquimaux  had  marked  most  of  the  promi- 
nent points  in  this  quarter,  by  erecting  piles  of  stones  similar 
to  the  cairns  built  for  land-marks  by  the  shepherds  in  Scotland. 
These  erections  were  occasionally  noticed,  after  doubling  Cape 
Parry,  but  they  were  more  numerous  here.    The  ice  which 


"^' 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


215 


August.] 

we  saw  this  day  was  in  form  of  loose  streams,  and  offered  no 

ofthatw^rlh  ^^^"°w'T.^''P^^^^       "^^'^g  the  remains 
"?at  which  had  accumulated  in  the  winter. 

The  latitude  68°  1 3'  N.  was  observed  at  noon  on  a  low  point 

which  projected  from  some  higher  lands.     From  tWspS 

which  was  named  after  Edward  H.  Locker,  Esq  ,  Secr^erry 

to  the  Royal  Hospital  at  Greenwich,  we  had  a  v?ewTf  Cape 

Hearne,  the  form  of  which  1  thought  I  recognised  frommy^e^ 

H^  rn  "%^^  ''  °"  ^^l  ^''"'''  ^«W-  ^^  reached  Cape 
and  nH  V5'  ^^^"^v'^"^'"^  ^"  ^^^  Iftevnoon  skirted  a  low 
nil/  ?.  ^'^n''''^'  ^i^y  im'Tiediately  to  the  north  of  it  was 

H^^rt  X^^'r  ^'''^  ^^"'  «^  '^^  I^^Pl  Navy,  clpe 
Hearne  itself  is  a  low  point,  not  visible  from  the  mouth  of  the 

distance,  appears  like  a  steep  promontory,  and  is  that  desig- 
nated  as  Cape  Hearne  in  Captain  Franklin's  chart  of  his  fo?- 
mer  voyage.  The  latitude  of  this  cape  is  68°  11 '  K  and  its 
longitude  1140  54'  W.  The  length  of  the  day's  voyage  was 
forty  miles.  Many  deer  were  seen  here,  and  Ooligbuck  killed 
a  very  hne  one  in  the  evening.  After  encamping  I  went  a  few 
mi  es  mo  the  interior  and  found  that  the  country  was  com 

fhp  ht  h/'Tf  "!'.r''''l'  '°'^  ^y  ^  succession  of  terraces  to 
the  height  of  about  three  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  The  heat 
of  the  day  was  considerable,  the  thermometer,  when  exposed 

Llnl  T  °^  ^^^  T'  '»<^'^^t'"g  86°,  without  the  bulb  being 
blackened,  or  any  other  means  used  to  retain  the  heat. 

Embarking  early  on  the  eighth,  and  passing 
through  several  loose  streams  of  ice,  some  pieces  "^^^^day,  sth. 
of  which  were  twenty-four  feet  thick,  we  landed  at  nine 
o  clock  on  a  bold  cape  to  prepare  breakfast.     It  is  formed  of 

nrp.rr  fT'^^'lt'  '^P°''"S  on  slaty  limestone,  and  rising 
precipitously  from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  three  hundred  ani 
hfty  feet   I  named  this  well  marked  point  Cape  Kendall,  after 
my  highly  esteemed  friend  and  companion,  and  had  the  plea- 
sure of  pointing  out  to  him,  from  its  summit,  the  gap  in  the 
hills  at  Bloody  Fall,  through  which  the  Coppermine  River 
flows     Mr.  Kendall  having  taken  the  necessary  bearTngs  and 
s^cetches  for  the  completion  of  his  chart,  we  descended  the 
hill  to  announce  to  the  men,  that  a  short  traverse  would 
bring  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River.   As  we  were 
aware  of  the  disappointment  which  often  springs  from  the 
premature  excitement  of  hope,  we  had  not  priviously  ac! 
quamted  them  with  onr  n^nr  annr/^or^i.  *-.  ^u^  * -.--J.     - 

our  voyage ;   fearing  that  an  unfavourable  trending  of  the 


216 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


i 


coast,  or  an  intervening  body  of  ice,  might  protract  it  some 
days  longer  than  we  expected.  The  gratifying  intelhgence 
that  we  now  conveyed  to  them,  was,  therefore,  totally  unex- 
pected, and  the  pleasure  they  experienced  found  vent  in  heart- 
felt expressions  of  gratitude  to  the  Divine  Being,  for  his  pro- 
tection on  the  voyage.  At  noon  the  latitude  of  Cape  Kendall 
was  ascertained  to  be  67°  58'  N.,  and  its  longitude  by  reckon- 
ing was  115°  18' W.  ,     .  .    ^ 

Re-embarking,  we  steered  for  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
■River  with  the  sails  set  to  a  fine  breeze,  plying  the  oars  at  the 
same  time,  and  on  rounding  Cape  Kendall,  we  opened  a  mag- 
nificent inlet,  or  bay,  rendered  very  picturesque  by  the  man- 
ner in  which  its  lofty  cliffs  came  successively  in  sight  as  we 
crossed  its  mouth.  We  distinguished  it  by  the  name  of  our 
mutual  friend  and  companion  Captain  Back.  One  of  Couper  s 
Islands,  on  which  we  landed,  consists  of  greenstone,  rising  from 
the  water  like  steps  cf  a  stair ;  and  from  its  summit  we  per- 
ceived that  a  low  piece  of  land,  which,  on  the  former  voyage, 
had  been  mistaken  for  aii  island,  was,  in  fact,  the  extremity  of 
Point  Mackenzie,  and  that  Richardson  River  was  merely  a 
ravine,  now  dry.*  Having  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Copper- 
mine River,  we  encamped  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  posi- 
tion of  the  tents  on  Captain  Franklin's  former  Expedition. 
Some  half-burnt  wood,  the  remains  of  the  fires  then  made, 
were  still  lying  on  the  spot ;  and  I  also  recognised  the  Esqui- 
maux stage,  which  we  visited  on  that  occasion,  but  there  were 
no  skins  nor  utensils  on  it  now. 

The  completion  of  our  sea  voyage  so  early  in  the  season 
was  a  subject  of  mutual  congratulation  to  us  all;  and  to  Mr. 
Kendall  and  myself  it  was  highly  gratifying  to  behold  our  men 
still  fresh  and  vigorous,  and  ready  to  commence  the  laborious 
march  across  the  barren  grounds,  with  the  sanie  spirit  that 
they  had  shown  in  overcoming  the  obstacles  which  presented 
themselves  to  their  progress  by  sea.  We  all  felt  that  the  com- 
fort and  ease  with  which  the  voyage  had  been  performed, 
were  greatly  owing  to  the  judicious  and  plentiful  provision  of 
stores  and  food  which  Captain  Franklin  had  made  for  us ;  and 
gratitude  for  his  care  mingUng  with  the  pleasure  excited  by 
our  success,  and  directing  our  thoughts  more  strongly  to  his 
party,  the  most  ardent  wishes  were  expressed  that  they  might 
prove  equally  fortunate.  The  correctness  of  Mr.  Kendall's 
reckoning  was  another  source  of  pleasure.     Having  been  de- 


*  Captain  Franklin  has  since  transferred  the  name  of  Riciiardson  to  tiic 
Bay  between  Point  Mackenzie  and  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River. 


August] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


217 


bv  Mr  hnZ\)^     '     high-water,  and  a  tide-table  drawn  up 

:ro?txrrairr»\r  £S^^^^^ 

expected  from  so  small  a  rise.    Off  the  Alluvial    lloT  ^^^ 
between  the  outlets  of  the  Mackenzie  RvPr^nir"'''^  ^^'"S 

Covp^^«  «f  J  ■  f»J?*.Separation,  attained  to  SO"  at  Refuee 
»hLh  -f      A    n'"5  *•*'"■'"<'.  and  56°  at  Cape  Parrv-  aft! r 

ai  ine  mourn  ot  the  Coppermine,  it  was  48° 

rpM  V.r  "°  =?  'Ji?'  """y  •'^"^  "»«=''  impeded  a  ehip  ex. 
»hlLt*  "  u"  «'»■?«  Clerk-5  Island  an5  Cape  fil^ley 
where  it  was  lieavy  and  closelv  n»rt»H     Ti..   "^    "eniey, 

however,  of  lanes  of  open  water'^towards  Wolh.?'"'^'''? 

opposite  to  Cape  Bexle/  indSd  „s  t^WnklaVheTe  St 

te  of  j^tt^r  tewesZKi^::°4t^'?!!?  *: 

«o  S8.P  iiarbonrs,  and  the  many  .andlbantTfeirg  tjle  TuSeta 

38 


218 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182C. 


of  Esquimaux  Lake  would  render  it  dangerous  for  a  ship  to 
approach  the  shore  in  that  quarter.  There  is  such  an  abundance 
of  drift-timber  on  almost  every  part  of  the  coast,  that  a  suft- 
cient  supply  of  fuel  for  a  ship  might  easily  be  collected,  and 
wherever  we  landed  on  the  main  shore  we  found  streams  or 
small  lakes  of  fresh  water.  Should  the  course  of  events  ever 
introduce  a  steam-vessel  into  those  seas,  it  may  be  important 
to  know  that  in  coasting  the  shores  between  Cape  Bathurst 
and  the  Mackenzie,  fire- wood  sufficient  for  h6r daily  consump- 
tion may  be  gathered,  and  that  near  the  Babbage  River,  to 
the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  a  tertiary  pitch-coal  exists  of 
excellent  quality,  which  Captain  Franklin  describes  as  forming 

extensive  beds.  .„.,.„  tu^ 

The  height  to  which  the  drift-timber  is  thrown  up  on  the 
shores  at  the  western  entrance  of  the  Dolphin  and  Union 
Straits  is,  1  think,  an  indication  of  an  occasional  great  rise  in 
the  sea,  which,  as  the  tides  are  in  comparison  so  insignihcant,  1 
can  ascribe  only  to  the  north-west  winds  driving  the  waters  of 
an  open  sea  towards  the  funnel-shaped  entrance  of  the  straits. 
If  this  view  is  correct,  Wollaston  Land  probably  extends  far 
to  the  north,  and  closely  adjoins  to  Banks'  Land,  or  is  con- 
nected with  it.     Captain  Parry  found  the  strait  between  Me  - 
viUe  Island  and  Banks'  Land  obstructed  by  ice,  and  this  will 
naturally  be  generally  the  case,  both  there  and  in  the  Dolphin 
and  U-ion  Straits,  if  they  form  the  principal  openings  through 
a  ran  e  of  extensive  islands,  which  run  north  and  south,  and 
bonnf  a  large  tract  of  sea,  comparatively  free  from  land.    1  he 
heat  of  the  summer  in  that  quarter  seems  to  be  always  or  al- 
most always  sufficient  to  admit  of  the  ice  breaking  up,  but  not 
powerful  enough  to  dissolve  it  entirely.     Hence  the  bose  ice 
driven  about  by  the  winds,  and  carried  to  the  lee-side  of  the 
wider  expanses  of  sea,  is  tirmly  packed  in  the  narrow  straits 
and  winding  passages  amongst  the  islands,  from  whence  it  can 
be  dislodged  only  by  a  concurrence  of  very  favourable  circum- 
stances, and  where  the  waste  by  the  solar  rays  is  replaced  by 
every  breeze  blowing  from  the  open  sea.    The  north-west 
winds  being  the  strongest  and  most  prevalent  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  summer,  it  is  at  the  western  end  of  a  strait  that 
the  ice  is  most  frequently  and  closely  packed.     Captain  Parry 
remarks  that  "  there  was  something  peculiar  about  the  south- 
west extremity  of  Melville  Island,  which  made  the  icy  sea 
there  extremely  unfavourable  to  navigation,  and  which  seemed 
to  bid  defiance  to  all  ellbrts  to  proceed  farther  to  the  west- 
ward in  that  parallel  of  latitude."     The  Dolphin  and  Union 
Straits  hold  out  greater  prospect?  of  surress  for  a  similar  at- 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


319 


August.] 

tempt,  not  only  from  their  more  southern  position,  but  from 
the  strong  current  of  flood  and  ebb  which  flows  through  them 
and  keeps  the  ice  m  motion.  ^ 

We  noticed  on  the  coast  about  one  hundred  and  seventy 
pfKBHogamous,  or  flowering  plants,  being  one-fifth  of  the  num. 

thP  s'i,tEw"^  ""^u^  '^''^  ^"f "  ^'^'^^'  '^^'^titudc  farther  to 
one  MhZlt'   ^^^^'^''J^  bents,  and  rushes,  constitute  only 

?nrtL  -K     ^^    *  T,^^'   "^  'P^^'^^   «"    *b«  coast,  but  the  twb 

ormer  tribes  actually  cover  more  ground  than  all  the  rest  of 
the  vegetation  -The  cruciferous,  or  cress-like  tribes  afford 
one-seventh  of  the  species,  and  the  compound  flowers  are 
neaHy  as  numerous.  The  shrubby  plants  that  reach  the  sea- 
Zlrf  V  "'^,,co™'"«»  J""'Per.  two  species  of  willow,  the 
dwarf  birch  {betula  glandulosa),  the  common  alder,  the  hin- 

fh?T!K^/''T^^''7'I*'^,/^^  bearberry  (arbutus  nva  wm\ 
the  Labrador  tea  plant,  (ledum  palustre,)  the  Lapland  rose 
(rhododendron  lappomcum,)  the  bog  whortleberry  (raccmium 
ubgmosum,)  and  the  crow-berry  (empetrum  nigrum.)     The 
kidney-leaved  oxyria  grows  in  great  luxuriance  there,  and  oc- 
casionally  furnished  us  with  an  agreeable  addition  to  our 
meals,  as  it  resembles  the  garden  sorrel  in  flavour,  but  is  more 
juicy  and  tender.   It  is  eaten  by  the  natives,  and  must,  as  well 
as  many  of  the  cress-hke  plants,  prove  an  excellent  corrective 
ot  the  gross,  oily,  rancid,  and  frequently  putrid  meat  on  whirh 
they  subsist.  The  small  bulbs  of  ?he  AlJiL  bistoT(^X^^^^^ 
vivzpamm)  and  the  long,  succulent,  and  sweet  roots  of  many 
of  the  astragalecB  M,hich  grow  on  the  sandy  shores,  are  eata- 
ble; but  we  did  not  learn  that  the  Esquimau^  were  acquainted 
with  their  use.    A  few  clumps  of  white  spruce-fir,  with  some 
straggling  black  spruces  and  canoe  birches,  grow  at  the  distance 
of  twenty  or  thrty  miles  from  the  sea,  in  Sheltered  situations! 
on  the  banks  of  rivers. 


i^ 


220 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


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1826.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SKA. 


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222 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  EASTERN  DETACHMENT 
CONCLUDED. 


#f 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Ascend  the  Coppermine  River— Abandon  the  Boats  and  Stores— Com- 
mence tho  Land  Journey-Cross  the  Copper  Mountams  and  Height  of 
Land-Moct  Indians  who  bring  Provisions-Arnve  at  Great  Bear  Lake 
—Detained  by^want  of  a  Boat— Send  out  Huntors-Arnval  of  Beauhcu- 
Collect  the  Party,  and  proceed  to  Fort  Franklin- Conclusion. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  9th  of 

Wednesday,  9tli.   ^y^^gt^  ^g  left  our  encampment  at  the  mouth 

of  the  Coppermine  River,  and  proceeded  in  the  boats  to  Bloody 

Fall  a  distance  of  about  eleven  miles.     The  river  was  very 

low,  and,  in  many  places,  there  was  scarcely  water  enough 

for  our  boats,  which  did  not  draw  more  than  fourteen  mcbes. 

On  the  preceding  evening  an  Esquimaux  dog  had  come  to  our 

encampment:  his  meagre  aspect  showed  that  he  had  fared 

badly  and  hunger  had  rendered  him  so  tame  that  he  readily 

ate  from  our  hands.     After  following  us  a  considerable  way 

up  the  river  he  left  us ;  and  we  found,  on  our  arrival  at  Bloody 

Fall,  that  a  party  of  Esquimaux  had  just  quitted  that  place ; 

probably  having  discovered  us  from  a  distance.  ^    „  „ 

The  Coppermine  River,  for  forty  miles  above  Bloody  tall, 

flows  over  an  uneven  stony  bed,  betwixt  precipitous  rocky 

walls,  and  is  full  of  rapids.  It  is  totally  impracticable  to  ascend 

it  in  boats  having  a  greater  draught  of  water  than  a  few  inches ; 

and  even  a  small  canoe  must  be  frequently  carried  over  land  for 

considerable  distances,  to  avoid  the  numerous  obstacles  which 

occur      It  was  necessary,  therefore,  that  we  should  leave  at 

this  place  the  Dolphin  and  Union,  and  every  thing  that  was 

not  absolutely  necessary  for  our  journey.     We  determined, 

however,  on  taking  with  us  Colonel  Pasley's  canvass  boat,  the 

Walnut-shell,  in  the  hope  of  its  occasionally  relieving    the 

men  of  their  burdens  for  a  short  time,  should  any  part  oi 


August.] 


OV  THK  POLAH  SEA. 


223 


the  river  admit  of  its  use.     The  afternoon  was  employed  in  ar- 
ranging the  loads  for'  crossing  the  barren  grounds.     Twenty 
pounds  of  pemmican  were  allotted  to  each  man,  and  the  pack- 
ages ol  maccaroni,  arrow-root,  portable-soup,  chocolate,  sugar, 
and  tea,  were  equally  distributed;  together  with  the  nautical 
almanack,  astronomical  tables,  charts,  two  fishing  nets,  the 
collection  of  plants,  specimens  of  rocks,  and  the  portable  boat, 
kettles,  and  hatchets ;  all  of  which,  with  the  blankets,  spare 
shoes,  guns,  and  antununition,  made  a  load  of  about  seventy-two 
pounds  a  man.     Mr.  Kendall  undertook  to  carry  the  sextant 
and  azimuth-compass  ;  and  I  took  the  artificial  horizon  and  a 
package  of  paper  for  drying  plants,  besides  which  we  each 
carried  a  blanket,  gun,  and  ammunition.  As  I  feared  that  some 
of  the  party  would  over-rate  their  strength,  and,  through  a  de- 
sire of  saving  some  favourite  article,  load  themselves  too  hea- 
yily  at  the  outset,  which  could  not  fail  to  prove  very  injurious 
to  the  regularity  and  speed  of  our  march,  I  informed  them, 
that,  as  soon  as  we  were  at  a  convenient  distance  from  our 
present  encampment,  I  should  halt  and  examine  all  their  bun- 
dies. 

The  boats  were  drawn  up  on  shore,  out  of  the  reach  of  any 
flood,  and  the  remainder  of  the  articles,  that  we  had  brought 
to  give  the  Esquimaux,  were  put  into  boxes  and  placed  in  the 
tents,  that  they  might  be  readily  found  by  the  first  party  of  that 
nation  that  passed  this  way.     They  consisted  of  fish-hooks, 
lines  hatchets,  knives,  files,  fire-steels,  kettles,  combs,  awls 
needles,  thread,  blue  and  red  cloth,  gartering,  and  beads,  sufR- 
cient  to  ^rve  a  considerable  number  of  Esquimaux  for  several 
years.     The  tents  were  securely  pitched,  and  the  Union  Jack 
hoisted,  partly  for  the  purpose  of  attracting  the  attention  of  the 
natives,  and  partly  to  show  them  the  mode  of  using  the  tents 
which  may  prove  to  be  very  useful  in  their  summer  journeys' 
1  hat  no  accident  might  occur  from  the  natives  finding  any  of 
our  powder,  all  that  we  did  not  require  to  take  with  us  was 
thrown  into  the  river. 

At  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  10th, 
after  the  men  had  been  down  to  the  beach  to  '^'^""dayi  lOth. 
take  a  last  look  of  our  little  boats,  we  be^an  our  march  to  Bear 
Lake,  intending  to  keep  on  the  banks  of  the  Coppermine  as 
far  as  its  bend  at  the  Copper  Mountains,  and  to  strike  from 
thence  straight  across  the  hills  for  the  mouth  of  Dease's  River 
which  falls  into  the  north-east  arm  of  Bear  Lake.  We  set  off 
at  a  pretty  quick  pace,  and  the  first  hill,  after  leaving  our  en- 
campment, bemg  steep,  tried  the  wind  of  most  of  the  party,  so 
„„  „„„  „aa  luEupu  uicniselveK  wiin  superfluous  ar- 


r^f^r'-^'Tn"' 


334 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[18'iG. 


tides,  were  glad  to  throw  them  away  during  a  short  halt  on  its 
summit,  and  when  I  examined  their  packages,  at  the  next  rest- 
ing-place, I  found  httle  to  reject.  A  path  beaten  by  the  rein- 
deer and  the  Esquimaux  conducted  us  down  the  southern  face 
of  this  range  of  hill  to  the  plain  beneath,  when  we  halted  to 
prepare  breakfast,  and  to  make  some  further  arrangements,  as 
several  of  the  party,  being  unaccustomed  to  carry  loads,  ad- 
vanced slowly.  After  breakfast  the  portable  boat  was  put 
together,  and  the  baggage  being  placed  in  it»,we  endeavoured  to 
tow  it  up  the  river,  but  found  this  to  be  iippracticable,  owing 
to  the  badness  of  the  towing-path,  the  numerous  high  clifi's 
which  bound  the  stream,  and  the  form  of  the  boat,  which  per- 
mitted the  water  in  strong  rapids  to  flow  over  its  bows.  This 
boat  was  admirably  adapted  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  was 
constructed  by  Colonel  Pasley,  that  of  crossing  a  river  or  lake, 
as  we  had  ascertained  by  previous  trials ;  but  we  knew  that 
no  river,  except  such  as  we  could  ford,  could  occur  on  our 
route  to  Bear  Lake  ;  and  I,  therefore,  determined  on  leaving 
it,  together  with  half  a  bag  of  arrow-root,  and  five  muskets,  by 
which  the  loads  were  reduced  about  fifteen  pounds  a  man. 
The  march  was  then  resumed  with  alacrity,  and,  notwithstand- 
ing that  the  day  was  hot  and  sultry,  we  proceeded  with  great- 
er speed  and  satisfaction.  Mr.  Kendall  walked  at  the  head  of 
the  line  at  a  steady  pace,  halting  for  five  minutes  every  half 
hour  to  rest  the  party,  and  prevent  straggling.  At  five  we  en- 
camped, having  marched  about  six  miles  in  a  direct  line.  The 
route  throughout  the  journey  was  regulated,  from  time  to  time, 
by  our  taking  the  bearing  of  a  distant  hill,  or  other  conspicu- 
ous object,  by  the  compass,  and  walking  directly  for  it ;  and 
the  distance  was  estimated  by  noting  the  time  and  guessing  the 
rate  of  our  march.  Of  this,  which  was  in  general  a  little  more 
than  two  miles  an  hour,  previous  practice  had  enabled  us  to 
judge  so  correctly,  that  the  estimate  seldom  erred  more  than  a 
mile  a  day.  The  error,  whatever  it  was,  was  always  corrected 
at  noon,  when  the  latitude  was  observed,  and  the  course  and 
distance  were  then  calculated  anew. 

During  the  day  several  small  herds  of  rein-deer  were  seen, 
but  I  would  not  permit  any  one  to  leave  the  line  of  march  to 
go  in  pursuit  of  them;  after  encamping,  however,  M'Leay 
killed  a  fine  buck.  A  solitary  stunted  spruce-fir  grew  near  our 
encampment,  and  the  most  northerly  clump  on  the  river  was 
seen  about  two  miles  to  the  southward.  When  supper  was 
over  and  a  watch  set,  we  stretched  ourselves  on  the  ground, 
and  soon  sunk  into  sound  sleep.  The  temperature  at  sunset 
was  62°. 


August.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


225 


the  frequent  ascent  anH  H...^-      ^'*^^  ^^^h,   but 

and  insccu  Jt7orfoot  n^  ZTZ^^  ^P«"g'"^««  «^  the  ground, 
rious  than  i   would  fe  I    ^''"^  marching  much  more  labo- 

The  direct  di  Ian  e  tavelleS'tl.iri  "  ^''^  ,^"^'''^^>  '^'^'^^^^ 
We  saw  many  L-riv  Arrft^  .  ''J^^'  "'^^"^  *"^e've  miles. 

ing  near  tIir^bS4  and  aS't  ^  ^"'•^'■')  ^r^'" 

our  fellow  voyagerTl  i^  i-f  terr.er  dog,  which  had  teen 
cutting  niT  .\y.i=^Y^^"^  i^ngiand,  showed  much  dexterity  in 
of  them      Tt' V  ''f '  •'^"^  succeeded  in  catching  seye^^  of 

Our  march  on  the  12th  was  rendered  pleasant 
by  a  coo  northerly  breeze,  and  the  men  bdng    Saturday,  ,2th. 

dTu^rXrhf pSii:^^^^^^^   '''^'  -^-^^  -- 

rapid  progre^  Th^e  len^  h^n^f h  ^"^ '  ?P''*'  ^^  "'^^^ ^ '"ore 
beVexflusiye  of  thShou  fy  S' TtVeT^  '"•'.^^' 
by  breakfast,  at  the  rate  of  two  lies  Id  a  h«lf  r\°''"P'?^ 

tr=?:totaV^:zTSrH^^^^ 

(con.™  Cknademi,)  visited  our  ^L^ll'     V?  Wh'sky-John 
un  the  13th,  commencing  the  day's  march  at 

formed  bys„o„;c„„/:Kdby^to:i/„fr^  "^  '« 

remained  in  the  bed  of  lliis  rivulet  ^        ^  stream,  still 

At  noon  the  latitude  was  observed  in  C7»  I T  M        i 
were  now  on  the  snot  wb^r.^  it.   r-  "•'  "'"'  ■■>5  w 

' "'  "'""^'^  '^'g-^  l-oppermmc  makes  the  near- 


m 


326 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


est  approach  to  the  north-east  arm  of  Bear  Lake,  we  decided 
on  striking  directly  from  this  place  to  the  mouth  ot  Dease  » 
River,  and  the  course  and  distance  were  accordingly  calcu- 
lated Our  route  lay  over  rocks  of  old  red  sandstone,  clay- 
slate,*  and  greenstone  disposed  in  ridges,  which  had  a  direction 
from  E.S.E.  to  W.N.W.  The  sides  of  many  of  the  ridges  were 
precipitous,  and  their  uneven  and  stony  summits  were  two 
hundred  or  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high.  The  valleys  were 
generally  swampy  and  abounded  in  small  lakes.  A  few  scat- 
tered and  thin  clumps  of  pines  existed  in  the  more  sheltered 
spots,  but  the  country  was,  in  general,  nake*.  Several  bur- 
rows of  wolves  were  seen  in  the  mountains.  We  crossed  two 
small  streams  in  the  course  of  the  day,  flowing  towards  the 
Coppermine,  and  encamped  at  four  p.m.  on  the  banks  ot  a 
small  lake.  Sand-flies,  the  first  we  had  seen  this  season,  were 
numerous  and  troublesome  in  the  evening,  the  temperature 

then  being  33°.  .     .   „  u  m.  a 

Setting  out  at  five  a.m.  on  the  14th,  we  halted 
Monday,  14th.  ^^  breakfast  at  nine,  after  a  pretty  brisk  walk 
through  a  country  entirely  destitute  of  wood.  Some  partridges, 
which  were  so  tame  as  to  be  easily  killed  with  stones,  furnished 
us  with  an  agreeable  variety  of  diet.     A  meridional  observa- 
tion was  obtained  in  latitude  67°  10'  N.     In  endea^uring  to 
get  round  the  south  end  or  a  small  chain  of  lakes,  which  lay  in 
our  route,  we  were  stopped  by  a  narrow  stream  about  six  feet 
deep,  flowing  from  them  towards  the  Coppermine  River ;  but, 
on  sounding  the  lake  a  little  way  from  the  head  of  the  stream, 
we  found  that  it  was  fordable  without  difficulty.  We  marched 
to  a  late  hour  in  search  of  fuel  to  cook  some  deer's  meat,  which 
M'Leay  had  procured  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  were  for- 
tunate in  at  length  finding  a  wooded  valley  on  the  banks  of  a 
small  stream,  that  fell  into  the  chain  of  lakes  which  vve  had 
crossed      It  is  probably  this  river,  and  chain  of  lakes,  that  the 
Indians*  ascend  from  the  Coppermine  River  in  canoes  to  the 
height  of  land  which  they  cross  on  their  route  to  Bear  Lake, 
The  ridges  of  hill  over  which  we  marched  on  this  day  con- 
sisted of  spotted  sandstone  and  porphyry.     The  temperature 
in  the  evening  was  47°,  and  the  night  was  frosty.    Two  white 
wolves  look  a  survey  of  our  bivouack,  but  did  not  venture 

within  gun-shot.  ,  ^         ,  i    i    * 

Starting  on  the  15th  at  five  o'clock,  we 
Tuesday,  15th.  ^^arched  until  eight,  when  we  halted  to  break- 
fast.    The  air  felt  very  cold,  although  the  thermometer  was 

*  Franklin's  First  Journey  to  the  Polar  Sea,  p.  'S^l. 


[182G. 

!  decided 
Dease's 
;ly  calcu- 
»ne,  clay- 
direction 
iges  were 
vere  two 
eys  were 
few  scat- 
sheltered 
^•eral  bur- 
)ssed  two 
wards  the 
inks  of  a 
son,  were 
nperature 

we  halted 
risk  walk 
»artridges, 

furnished 
1  observa- 
«^uring  to 
lich  lay  in 
ut  six  feet 
,iver ;  but, 
tie  stream, 
i  marched 
eat,  which 

were  for- 
)anks  of  a 
ch  we  had 
!s,  that  the 
loes  to  the 
;ar  Lake,* 
3  day  con- 
mperature 
rwo  white 
ot  venture 

'clock,  we 
i  to  break- 
•meter  was 


August.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


227 


not  below  39       In  the  early  part  of  the  day  we  crossed  some 
ndges  of  sandstone,  and  towards  noon  we  travelled  over  gra- 
nite, similar  to  that  which  abounds  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
fr  ort  Enterpnze      Much  wood  was  seen  in  a  valley  far  to  the 
westward    but  the  hills  over  which  our  course  lay  were  quite 
naked.      Ihe  bog  whortleberry  (vaccinium  ulieinosum,)  how- 
ever, grew  abundantly  on  these  hills,  and  as  its  fruit  was  now 
n  the  highest  perfection,  the  men  at  every  resting-place  threw 
hemselves  down,  and  indulged  freely,  without  sustaining  any 
injury. 

In  the  afternoon  our  route  was  over  nearly  horizontal  strata 
01  spotted  sandstone  and  conglomerate.    About  three  o'clock 
we  had  gained  the  summit  of  the  height  of  land  separating  the 
Coppermine  River  from  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  obtained  from 
It  an  extensive  view  of  a  lower  and  well  wooded  country ;  but 
all  the  grounds  m  our  immediate  neighbourhood  consisted  of 
barren  sandstone  strata.    After  looking  in  vain  for  a  comforta- 
ble sleeping-place,  as  the  night  threatened  to  be  stormy,  and  a 
moist  and  cold  fog  ^vas  setting  in,  we  were  obliged  to  content 
ourselves  with  building  a  rude  shelter  with  blocks  of  sand- 
stone;  and  to  use  for  firing  a  black  lichen  {comicularia  diver- 
gens,)  which,  fortunately,  grew  plentifully  in  the  crevices  of 
f^n  '°    w  T,^^^^'^t^"ce  walked  this  day  was  about  fourteen 
miles.     We  had  no  meridional  obser  -ations,  because  the  skv 
was  obscured.  -^ 

J^^Jj^V^P/n^'.^""*  '"°'*  ""^  *^e  men  had  retired  to  rest, 
when  Mr.  Kendall,  ,n  sweeping  the  horizon  with  his  telescope 
saw  three  Indians  coming  down  a  hill,  and  directing  their  steps 
towards  us      More  moss  was  immediately  thrown  on  the  fire, 
and  the  St  George's  ensign  hoisted  on  the  end  of  a  musquet 
to  point  out  to  the  comers  who  we  were ;  but  as  they  hid  the 
youngest  of  their  number  in  a  ravine,  at  the  foot  of  the  hilJ 
and  the  two  seniors  seemed  to  approach  slowly  and  with  sus-' 
picion,  Mr.  Kendall  and  I  went  unarmed  to  me^t  them    Thev 
came  up,  one  with  his  bow  and  arrows  in  his  hand  kndtS 
other  with  his  gun  cocked ;  but  as  soon  as  they  recognised  our 
dress    which  was  the  same  that  I  had  worn  in  our  vovaee 
round  Bear  Lake,  the  preceding  autumn,  when  I  hadS 
most  of  the  Hare  Indian  tribe,  they  shouted  in  an  ecstacv  of 
joy,  shook  hands  most  cordially  with  us,  and  calleS  Slv^for 
the  young  lad  to  come  up.   The  meeting  was  no  less  gratifyit 
to  us    these  people  had  brought  furs  and  provisions  to  For? 
frankin  in  the  winter,  and  they  now  seemed  to  be  friends 
come  to  rejoice  with  us  on  the  termination  oi'  onr  IvL.'w! 
learned  i.um  them,  partly  by  signs,  and  partlyfrom'the'litVi; 


228 


SECOND  JOUR^fEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


IT- 


we  understood  of  their  language,  that  by  the  advice  of  It-chin- 
nah,  the  Hare  Indian  Chief,  they  had  been  hunting  for  some 
time  in  this  neighbourhood,  in  the  hopes  of  falHng  in  with  us  on 
our  way  from  the  sea ;  that  they  would  give  us  all  the  provi- 
sion they  had  collected,  accompany  us  to  Bear  Lake,  and  warn 
all  the  Indians  in  the  neighbourhood  of  our  arrival.  They 
appeared  much  surprised,  when,  placing  the  compass  on  the 
ground,  we  showed  them  the  exact  bearing  of  the  mouth  of 
Dease's  River ;  and  they  were  not  able  to  comprehend  how 
we  knew  the  way  in  a  quarter  through  which  we  had  never 
travelled.  They  said,  however,  that  they  would  conduct  us 
in  the  morning  to  the  Indian  portage  road,  where  we  would 
have  better  walking  than  by  keeping  the  direct  route  across 
the  hills.  We  had  reserved  but  little  that  we  could  present 
to  these  kind  people,  though  every  one  contrived  to  muster 
some  small  article  for  them,  which  they  gratefully  received. 
They  were  dressed,  after  the  manner  of  their  tribe,  with  fillets 
of  deer-skin  round  their  heads  and  wrists,  and  carried  in  their 
hands  a  pair  of  deer's  horns  and  a  few  willow  twigs,  which  are 
all  serviceable  in  enabling  them  to  approach  the  rein-deer,  in 
the  way  described  by  Mr.  Wentzel  in  the  Narrative  of  Captain 
Fra.klin's  former  voyage. 

Ooligbuck,  who  had  gone  out  to  hunt,  returned  ira^the  night. 
He  met  an  Indian  who  had  just  killed  a  deer  with  an  arrow, 
and  had  tried  to  persuade  him  to  come  to  us ;  but  neither  of 
thsm  understood  the  other's  language,  and  the  Indian,  probably 
terrified  by  the  sight  of  an  Esquimaux  armed  with  a  gim,  pre- 
sented him  with  a  piece  of  the  deer's  meat,  and  then  made  off 
in  an  opposite  direction.  Many  of  the  Hare  Indians  abstain 
from  visiting  the  forts  for  several  years,  and  it  is  possible  that 
this  one  had  not  heard  of  us,  or  at  least  had  not  received  a  dis- 
tinct account  of  our  intention  of  returning  this  way,  and  of  our 
having  an  Esquimaux  with  us.  Our  Indian  friends  told  us  that 
they  did  not  know  that  any  of  their  countrymen  were  hunting 
in  the  direction  which  Ooligbuck  pointed  out. 

On  the  16th  a  thick  fog  prevented  us  from 
Wednesday,  16th.  ^yH^i^g  our  bivouack  until  seven  o'clock, 
when  the  Indians  led  us  down  the  hill  about  a  mile  to  the  port- 
age road,  and  wc  resumed  the  precise  line  of  march  that  we 
had  followed  from  the  Coppermine  River,  (S.  63°  W.)  Such 
of  our  llighlaudmen  as  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  and,  consequently,  knew  from  experience  the 
dilficulty  of  travelling  through  a  country  without  guides,  could 
not  help  expressing  their  surprise  at  the  justness  of  the  course 

...»  1>'>.I  r.JLMtTM.I        W<^  hajl  im(  rniirpnlril  from  tbein.  that  from 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


229 


so  that  thpv  w^L  „  ™^   J         "™"^  ^'^^w*'  >nour  reckoning, 

rJnTi  1  P°'  'g^;''«a<i  conducted  us  in  a  short  time  to  the  orin- 

d  sCrof'six  m^r '?  """"'  ^"  ^'^^  ^^"'^^  «f  whic^rthe 
Sfast  Thp?/i  r  ''"'  ^nca'npment,  we  halted  to 
preaKiast.     ihe  stream  there  receives  another  branch  but  it 

deep.     A  httle  way  further  to  the  westward,  however   it  is 

irom  last  night  s  encampment  was  over  sandstone  rock«i  an*1 
down  a  pretty  rapid  ascent.  The  ground  was  barren  in  the 
extreme,  except  at  our  breakfasting  place,  where  there  was  a 
convement  clump  of  wood  and  a  profusion  of  whortlebeTries 

tent^on  of  haltmg  a  few  miles  further  on,  that  our  Indian  friends 
might  rejom  us  with  their  provision,  which  lay  in  Ire  o  S^e 
outhward  of  our  route.  We  therefore  encamped  at  half  na^t 
two  o'clock  m  a  pleasant  pine  clump,  and  immedttely  sXe 
to  a  tree  t©  apprize  the  Indians  of  our  situation.  Thev  arrived 

1  r5  V,'y '^'^u^''!"^  *^^  ^^''  ^ft^r  ^e  encamped,  so  that 
we  revel  ed  in  abundance.  The  length  of  the  day's  iournev 
was  fourteen  miles,  and  the  estimated  distance Vthe^^ou[h7f 
Dease's  River  twenty  miles.  ^         moum  oi 

The  provisions  obtained  from  the  Indians  be- 
ing distributed  amongst  the  men,  we  commenced  Thursday,  nth. 
the  march  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  walked  until  th^ 
usual  breakfasting  hour,  over  a  piece  of  fine  irvel  ground  A 
range  of  sandstone  hills  rose  on  our  left,  and  tVl  r?.er  ran 
nearly  parallel  to  our  course  on  the  right  but  we  walked  at 
the  distance  of  one  or  two  miles  from  it,  ti  avoid  its  w  ndfni 

,n  2.1. 7rFf  ?"^'  ""  '^'  ^''^''''  P'^^-t'-ees  grow  o^fy 
n  mall  detached  clumps  on  its  south  bank ;  but  the  uneven 
valley,  which  we  saw  spreading  for  ten  or  twelve  miL  "oihe 
northward,  was  well  wooded.  The  Needagazza  Hills  wh  ch 
.e  on  the  north  shore  of  the  Bear  Lake,  closed  the  viW  to 
the  westward  Several  columns  of  smoke  wese  seen  to  the 
westward,  and  one  to  the  southward  ;  the  laL,  the  Indians 
mrormed  us,  was  made  by  It-chinnah.     We  breakfasted  on  the 

!rd'7l:^.:^.1  i^r:^^^^^^^^^  bushes  we': 

""  "  "  "  ""^*  navuur  man  any  v,i:  had  previously 


230 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[182G. 


met  with.  At  noon  we  crossed  a  hill,  on  the  summit  of  which 
Mr  Kendall  had  an  observation,  that  placed  it  in  G8°  58'  of 
north  latitude.  Our  route  afterwards  led  us  across  several 
deep  ravines  close  to  the  river,  which  there  runs  by  the  base 
of  some  lofty  cliffs,  of  light  red  sandstone,  and  we  pushed  on 
in  great  spirits,  and  at  a  rapid  pace,  with  the  intention  of  reach- 
ing  Bear  Lake  that  evening ;  but  the  Indians  complammg  that 
they  were  unable  to  keep  up  with  us,  we  halted  at  three  p.m. 
Several  trees  were  then  set  on  tire  to  apprize  It-chinnah  and 
his  party  of  our  approach ;  and,  after  supper,  1  went  to  the 
summit  of  a  hill,  and  readily  recognised  the  islands  m  Dease  s 
Bay  of  Bear  Lake,  from  their  pecuHar  form  and  disposition. 

Setting  out  at  three  a.m.  on  the  1 8th,  the  In- 
Friday,  l8Ui.  ^^^^^^  conducted  US  over  a  rising  ground,  cover- 
ed with  white  spruces,  to  a  bay  of  the  Great  Bear  Lake,  about 
a  mile  from  Dease's  River.  After  breakfast,  our  stock  of  pro- 
visions  being  examined,  it  was  found  that  we  had  two  days' 
allowance  remaining.  A  party  was  next  sent  to  Dease's  River 
to  make  a  raft  for  setting  the  two  nets,  and  they  were  also  di- 
rected to  look  for  traces  of  Beaulieu  and  his  party.  He  had 
been  ordered  by  Captain  Franklin  to  leave  the  fort  on  the  6th 
of  August,  and  to  make  the  best  of  his  way  to  the  rendezvous, 
where  he  was  to  remain  to  the  20th  of  September.  The  length 
of  his  voyage,  allowing  for  two  or  three  days  detention  by  ad- 
verse winds,  was  not  expected  to  exceed  seven  or  eight  days, 
nor  to  be  protracted,  under  any  circumstances,  beyond  ten  or 
twelve.  We  had,  therefore,  reason  to  suppose  that  he  might 
have  reached  Dease's  River  by  this  time.  He  was  fully 
aware  of  the  inconvenience  that  we  might  experience,  should 
we  reach  the  appointed  spot  and  find  no  provisions  there ;  and 
to  stimulate  him  to  make  as  much  haste  as  possible,  I  had  pro- 
mised him  a  fowling-piece,  on  condition  that  we  found  him 
waiting  for  us  on  our  arrival.  Huts  were  made  to  sleep  in, 
and  several  trees  set  on  fire  to  point  out  our  position  to  the 
Indians  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  mossy  ground  near  our  encampment 
Saturday,  19th.  ^^^^i^^  fi^e  in  the  night,  and  the  flames  spread 
so  rapidly  that  we  were  obliged  on  the  morning  of  the  19th, 
to  move  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  where  we  made  new  huts. 
Owing  to  the  loss  of  a  hatchet  in  driving  the  stakes,  only  one 
net  had  been  set  the  preceding  evening,  and  in  it  wc  took 
eight  carp.  The  raft  being  made  of  green  wood  was  not  sufli- 
ciently  buoyant,  and  a  new  one  was,  therefore,  constructed 
this  day  of  dried  timber.  The  carp  aflbrded  a  breakfast  for 
tne  party,  ana  supjjcr  uunsumcu  an  ^ui  iit;?..i  ..  m 7  — ;:, 


[182G. 

;  of  which 
68°  58'  of 
ss  several 
'  the  base 
)ushed  on 
I  of  reach- 
lining  that 
three  p.m. 
nnah  and 
!nt  to  the 
n  Dease's 
position. 
:h,  the  In- 
nd,  cover- 
ake, about 
)ck  of  pro- 
two  days' 
Lse's  River 
re  also  di- 
.     He  had 
on  the  6th 
jndezvous, 
Ihe  length 
ion  by  ad- 
;ight  days, 
3nd  ten  or 
t  he  might 
was  fully 
ice,  should 
there ;  and 
I  had  pro- 
found him 
0  sleep  in, 
ion  to  the 

icampment 
nes  spread 
f  the  19th, 
!  new  huts. 
s,  only  one 
it  we  took 
IS  not  suffi- 
onstructed 
eakfast  for 
if.  toerether 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


231 


August.] 

with  a  portion  of  the  remainder  of  the  pemmican.   The  young 
Indian  went  off  m  the  afternoon  in  quest  of  It-chinnah's  party! 

iSfatir"'  '^^^'"^  ^" '''  '^^'  --  ^^-- '« 

On  Sunday,  the  20th,  prayers  were  read,  and 
thanks  returned  to  the  Almighty  for  his  gracious  Sunday,  aoth. 
protection  and  the  success  which  had  attended  our  voyaee 
The  nets  yie  ding  seventeen  pike,  carp,  and  white  fish,  pro! 
vided  an  amp lebreakfastfor  the  party,  and  before  supped  tCe 
it  JTJ;^  I"'^'.-"  returned  with  two  of  his  countrymL^,  b  i^g! 
ng  meat  sufficient  for  three  days  consumption.  Part  of  it  was 
he  flesh  of  the  musk-ox,  which  was  fat  and  juicy,  but  had  a 

math  7''^  ^?r "n-  ^^  ^"^  ^^^"  "«"^  ^^  ^^ese^  animals  on  our 
march  Irom  the  Coppermine  River,  although  we  frequently 
noticed  their  foot  marks.  Frequent  squalls  during  the  day 
brought  much  rain  but  the  huts^hich  Ve  had  made  of  pine 
branches  kept  us  dry.  We  could  not  but  consider  ourselves 
ortunate  in  having  had  no  rain  in  the  journey  overland,  when 
there  was  not  sufficient  wood  to  afford  us  the  shelter  we  now 
experienced. 

On  the  21st  the  nets  yielded  sixteen  fish,  which 
were  enough  for  breakfast.     Mr.  Kendall  crossed  M*^nday,2lst. 
the  river  on  a  raft,  and  went  to  the  top  of  a  hill  to  the  westward 
to  look  for  Beau  leu;  and,  by  way  of  keeping  the  men  em 
p byed,  I  sent  M'Leay  and  some  of  our  best  hunters  in  que™ 
of  deer,  and  set  the  carpenter  and  the  remainder  of  the 
party  to  niake  oars.     Our  Indian  friends  left  us  to  warn  some 
more  of  their  countrymen,  of  our  situation,  and  five  othere 
arrived  in  the  evening,  bringing  meat  and  large  basketfuls  of 
whortleberries.    M'Leay  and  the  other  hunters  returned  with- 
out  having  seen  any  deer. 

To  secure  a  stock  of  provision  for  our  journey  to  the  fort 
in  the  event  of  any  accident  preventing  the  arrival  of  the  boat 

iTfji  %T.^t\^  '^'  ^'^'y  ^'-^  ^  ^'«t^"t  excursl,  and  :„' 

%  ??",•'  ^'"^*'  M'Leay,  M'Duflie,  M'Lellan, 
and  Oohgbuck,  were  despatched  to  hunt  in  the  '^"^s'^ay,  22nd. 
neighbourhood  of  Limestone  Point,  on  the  north  shore  of  the 
lake,  with  orders  not  to  extend  their  excursions  beyond  Hal! 
danes  River  which  falls  into  the  lake  about  sixty  miles  to  the 
westward  of  Dease  River.  If  they  went  on  to  Haldanes  rT 
ver,  they  were  to  set  up  a  mark  on  Limestone  Point,  that  1 
mjght  know  whether  they  had  passed  or  not.  They  took 
w.  h  them  a  small  supply  of  provision,  and  an  IndiKe 

i:  *!::::oTrjr;;?f  ^^^^^^^^  ""^  "'^'  •"t  '"^^*-  ^^^^^wer" 

i.i.,oi  Dcmgpaid  wuuammuniiion,  which  they  much  need- 


233 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1026. 


ed  but  we  Iiad  none  to  give  them,  and 


their 


they  cheerfully  took 
arrival  at  1 


fort  in 


payment, 
the  wmter.  ^^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^.^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^ 

Wodnesday,  23rd.  jjj^^  ^^^  f^^j.  preceding  ones,  in  anxious  expec- 
tation of  Beaulieu's  arrival,  I  began  to  apprehend  that  some 
serious  accident  had  happened  to  h.s  boat,  and  to  fear  /hat  we 
should  be  obliged  to  walk  round  the  Lake  to  the  Fort.  1  he 
Lance  exceeding  three  hundred  miles,  we  could  not  expec 
to  accomplish  it  in  less  than  three  weeks,  and  ft  ^»tn««J 
much  fatigue  and  suffering,  for  the  men's  stock  of  shoes  wa 
ITeariy  exhausted,  their  clothing  ill  adapted  for  the  frosty  nights 
that  occur  in  September,  and  deer  do  not  frequent,  at  this  sea- 
son, much  of  the  country  through  which  our  route  lay.  1  na- 
turallv  looked  forward  to  such  a  march  with  uneasiness,  yet, 
as  the  season  was  drawing  to  a  close,  I  determined  not  to  delay 
setting  out  beyond  the  28th,  when  I  intended  to  engage  some 
Indians  as  guides,  and  to  take  with  us  as  much  dned  meat  as 
vve  could  carry.  The  wind  blew  from  the  south-west  this  day, 
and  we  were  much  tormented  by  sand-flies, 
ana  we  w  ^^  ^^^  evening  of  the  24th,  as  we  were  about 

Thursday  24th.  ^^  ^^^^^.^  ^^  bed, having  given  up  all  hopes  of  Beau- 
lieu's  arrival  that  day,  we  heard  people  talking  in  the  direction 
of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  soon  afterwards  saw  a  boat  and 
several  canoes.  A  musket  being  Bred  to  show  them  our  posi- 
tion thev  steered  for  the  encampment,  and  landed  opposite  to 
the  huts  They  proved  to  be  Beaulieu's  party,  consisting  of 
four  Canadians,  four  Chipewyan  hunters,  f  d  ten  Dog-nbs, 
which,  with  their  wives  and  children,  amounted  to  about  thirty 
in  all  We  learnt  from  Beaulieu,  that  he  had  been  sent  off 
from  the  Fort  by  Mr.  Dease,  on  the  6th,  with  strict  injunctions 
to  proceed  to  the  rendezvous  with  his  utmost  speed ;  but  he 
nleaded  the  badness  of  the  weather  and  the  adverse  winds  as 
the  cause  of  his  delay.  He  had  not  seen  the  five  men  I  sent 
off  on  the  22d,  though  he  had  noticed  a  fire  in  a  bay  near 
Limestone  Point,  which  1  had  no  doubt  was  made  by  them ;  1 
I  therefore  embarked  directly  to  rejoin  them  at  that  place,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  Kendall  and  the  remainder  of  our  party, 
two  of  the  Canadians,  and  an  Indian  named  the  Babillard; 
directing  Beaulieu  to  stay  at  the  huts  until  he  heard  from  us 
aeain  We  rowed  all  night,  and  soon  after  day-break  reached 
the  spot  where  the  fire  had  been  made,  but  found  no  marks  lo 
indicate  which  way  our  men  had  gone :  neither  was  there  any 
jvjori.  of  Limostone  Point :  I  therefore  caused  a  large  fire  to  be 
made  at  the  latter  place,  and  remained  there  the  whole  day. 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


233 


Our  people  not  appearing  on  the  26th,  I 
returned  in  the  boat  to  Dease  River,  leavins    Saturday,  26th. 
Mr.  Kendall  and  the  Babillard  at  Limestone  Point.     Beau- 

ividen't  tha't  %:v  tf  '^  ''''  ^^^^"*^^^'  ^^  '^  was  therefore 
rl^i  Vr  ^y  ^"^^  Sone  on  to  Haldane  River,  whither  I 
resolved  to  proceed  m  search  of  them ;  but  that  the;  St  no 

d£.H7  T'  ^^  ^'°'^'  '^^y  ^"^  '^^^'^  ^«  mis^d  them 
direc  ed  Beauheu's  party  to  remain  where  they  were,  unS  I 

took  wwi;  P"™"*'°«  t«  deP^'-t  by  two  Canadians,  ;hom 
took  with  me  on  purpose  in  a  small  canoe.     Mr.  Dease  had 

w7s  wPl  Z^^A^  *'  '^°?  ^'  r  ^'"'^^'^  «"d  a«  the  boat 
7hL  a\  -Ful^  ^^^  '=^''''^'"8  ^"ed  provision,  I  now  ex- 
changed  it  with  his  north  canoe. 

We  rejoined  Mr.  Kendall  at  Limestone  Point 
at  day-break  on  the  morning  of  the  27th  and  af   Sunday,  27th. 
terwards  paddled  along  the  coast  until  two  p.m.,  when  a  strong 
head-wind  obliged  us  to  put  ashore.     As  soon  as  we  landed  1 
set  out  with  the  Babillard  for  Haldane  River,  carryfng  a  smil 

Jood  ;  and  after  a  walk,  or  rather  a  run,  of  five  miles,  I  had  the 
happiness  of  finding  them  all  well,  and  with  plenty  of  provi! 
sions,  as  they  had  killed  six  deer.     Their  Indian^u  de  hid 

PnJnf  *l'"?  !k'"''  '"'""^'  ^y  "^^''^  ^^^y  ^^^  ™'««ed  Limestone 
Point ;  but  they  were  very  sorry  it  had  so  happened,  when 
they  learned  the  anxiety  they  had  occasioned  to  Mr.  KendaU 
and  myself,  by  their  not  erecting  the  mark  there  as  they  had 
been  directed  to  do.     The  wind  moderating  after  sunset  Mr 
Kendall  joined  us  with  the  two  canoes,  so  that  the  party  was 
again  happily  reunited.     On  Monday  the  28th,  I 
sent  back  the  small  canoe  with  the  Babillard  and  M*'"<*»y.  28th. 
two  Canadians,  to  join  Beauiieu,  and  proceed  with  the  rest 
of  the  party  in  the  larger  canoe  to  Fort  Franklin,  where  we 
arrived  on  Friday,  the  1st  of  September,  and  received  a  warm 
welcome  from  Mr.  Dease,  after  an  absence  of  seventy-one  davs 
during  which  period  we  had  travelled  by  land  and  water  one 
thousand  seven  hundred  and  nine  geographical,  or  nineteen 
hundred  and  eighty  statute  miles. 

Having  now  brought  the  Narrative  of  the  proceedings  of  the 
Eastern  Detachment  to  t>.  conclusion,  the  pleasine  duty  re- 
mains of  expressing  my  gratitude  to  the  party  for  thdr  cheer- 
ful and  obedient  conduct.  Not  a  murmur  of  discontent  was 
heard  throughout  the  voyage,  but  every  individual  engaged 
with  alacrity  m  the  laborious  tasks  he  was  called  upon  to  per- 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


834 

form  Where  all  behaved  with  the  greatest  zeal,  it  would  be 
in^diourto  particularize  any  ;  and  !  am  happy  m  having  t 
n  mv  DOwer  to  add,  that  since  our  return  to  £ng  and,  Gillet, 
FuUe^and  Tysoe,  who  were  in  His  Majesty's  service  previous 
to  h?.r  being  employed  on  the  Expedition,  have  be^n  reward- 
Id  by  promof ion.^  6ur  good-natured  fndfa.thul  Esquimau, 
friend  boligbuck,  carried  with  h.m  to  his  native  lan^  the 
warmest  wishes  and  esteem  of  the  whole  party.  His  at- 
7achmentrus  was  never  doubtful,  even  when  we  were  sur- 
rounded  bv  a  tribe  of  his  own  nation.        - 

The  gene^l  abilities  and  professional  skil  of  my  companion 
Lieuten^ant  Kendall,  are  duly  appreciated  m  h;gher  quarters 
and  can  derive  little  lustre  from  any  eulogium  from  me ;  but  1 
cannot  deny  myself  the  gratification  of  recording  my  deep 
sense  of  the  good  fortune  and  happiness  I  experienced  in  be- 
ng  associated  with  a  gentleman  of  such  pleasing  n^^nners  and 
one  upon  whose  friendly  support  and  sound  judgmen^  1  could 
v^ith  confidence  rely,  on  occasions  of  difficulty  and  doubt  in- 
separable  from  such  a  voyage 


End  of  Dr.  RichardtonU  Narrativt  of  the  Proceedings  of  the  Eastern 
•'  Detachment. 


OF  THE  POLAR  SKA. 


936 


TABLE  of  the  Distances  travelled  by  both  Branches  of  the 
Lxpedttion,  and  ofi  ,e  extent  of  their  Discoveries  in  1827. 


Statute 

Miles. 


BY  THE  WESTERN  PARTY 
From  Fort  Franklin,  by  Fort  Norman,  to  Point  Separation  (river 

^°'"Sr"°" '°  ^'"''^'  ^°'"*'  ^'  *^"  M«"^h  ^^'"^^  Ma;.  ^^ 

S^^S"'"/»''^«t»™*I^««f(s*ea-voyageout)       .      '  'If. 

Hetum  Reef,  back  to  Fort  Franklin,  including  Peel  River  "  ^ 


1020 


"1r."al'ZS.tt' «""•""■.«,  in  Jul,.  A„. 


gust,  September,  1826. 


2048 


BY  THE  EASTERN  PARTY. 


"*' a„"bUT8S°'  '!' "'"'  ^"""'  ."""'^ '» '"'y  •»'•  I 


1980 


EXTENT  OP  THE  DISCOVERIES  OF  THE  WESTERN  PARTY  IN  1826 
From  Point  Separation  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  by  a  west- 
em  branch,  not  previously  known  ^ 

90 


129 


610 


EXTENT  OF  THE  DISCOVERIES  OF  THE  EASTERN  PARTY  IN  1826 

Prom  Sacred  Island  to  Point  Encounter,  bein?  a  portion  of  the 

Po!„tT'  '^?^  '°.'^^  ^'''''"''^  of  Mackenzie's  route 
Pomt  Encounter,  along  the  coast  to  the  Coppermine  River' 
The  Copper  Mountains,  overland  to  Bear  Lake 


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SECONU  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


CAPTAIN  FRANKLIN'S  NARRATIVE  RESUMED. 


; 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Brief  Notices  of  the  Second  Winter  at  Bear  Lake— Traditions  of  the  Dog- 
ribs— Leave  Fort  Franklin— Winter  Journey  to  Fort  Chipewyan— Re- 
marks on  the  progress  of  improvement  in  the  Fur  Countries— Set  out  in 
Canoes  on  the  Voyage  Homeward— Join  Dr.  Ricliardson  at  Cumberland 
House— Mr.  Drummond's  Narrative— Arrival  in  Canada,  at  Now  York, 
and  London. 

During  our  absence  on  the  sea-coast,  Mr. 
Thursday,  2i8t.  pg^gg  ^^(1  employed  the  Canadians  in  making 
such  repairs  about  the  buildings  as  to  fit  them  for  another  vvin^ 
ter's  residence,  but  he  had  not  been  able  to  complete  his  plans 
before  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Richardson's  party,  through  whose 
assistance  they  were  finished  shortly  after  our  return.  The 
inconvenience  arising  from  the  unfinished  state  of  the  houses 
was  a  trifle,  when  compared  to  the  disappointment  we  felt  at 
the  poverty  of  our  store,  which  contained  neither  meat  nor 
dried  fish,  and  the  party  was  living  solely  on  the  daily  produce 
of  the  nets,  which,  at  this  time,  was  barely  sufficient  for  its 
support.  Notwithstanding  the  repeated  promises  which  the 
Fort  hunters  and  the  Dog-ribs  in  general  had  given  us,  of  ex- 
erting themselves  to  collect  provisions  during  the  summer,  we 
found  that  they  had  not  supplied  more  than  three  deer  since 
our  departure.  The  only  reason  they  assigned  to  Mr.  Dease, 
on  his  remonstrating  with  them,  was,  that  they  had  been  with- 
held from  hunting  at  any  great  distance  from  the  Fort,  by  the 
fear  of  meeting  the  Copper  Indians,  who,  they  fancied,  would 
be  lying  in  wait  to  attack  them.  This  excuse,  however,  had 
been  so  often  alleged  without  a  cause,  that  it  was  considered 
mere  evasion,  and  we  attributed  their  negligence  to  the  indo- 
lence and  apathy  which  mark  the  character  of  this  tribe. 

I  need  not  dilate  upon  the  anxieties  which  we  felt  at  the 
nrnnnprt  of  commencing  the  winter  with  such  a  scanty  supply 

I sr -"    '    —     -  V  .         __   . 


[1826. 


or  THE  I'OLAR  SEA. 


239 


ED. 


8  of  the  Dog' 
pcwyan — Re- 
3B — Set  out  in 
t  Cumberland 
It  New  York, 


L-coast,  Mr, 
3  in  making 
nother  win- 
:te  his  plans 
ough  whose 
:turn.     The 

the  houses 
it  we  felt  at 
ir  meat  nor 
lily  produce 
cient  for  its 
3  which  the 
en  us,  of  ex- 
summer,  we 
B  deer  since 

Mr.  Dease, 
1  been  with- 
Fort,  by  the 
icied,  would 
3wever,  had 
3  considered 
to  the  indo- 
5  tribe, 
re  felt  at  the 
:anty  supply 


September.] 

of  food.  We  at  once  sent  off  five  men,  provided  with  nets 
and  lines,  to  the  hshery  in  M'Vicar'«  Bay,  which  had  been 
80  productive  in  the  preceding  year,  in  the  hope  that,  besides 
gannng  their  own  subsistence,  they  might  store  up  some  fish 
for  us,  which  could  be  brought  to  the  Fort  when  the  lake  was 

omf  "V  c  T  "?'"*'^f  '^"''  '"  '°'"^  measure,  relieved  on  the 
20lh  of  September,  by  the  arrival  of  Beaulieu  and  some  hun- 
ters  from  the  north  side  of  Bear  Lake,  with  a  supply  of  dried 
meat.  The  term  of  Beaulieu's  engagement  being  now  expired, 
he  was  desirous  of  ouitting  our  service ;  and  though  he  was 
our  best  hunter,  Mr.  I)ease  advised  me  to  comply  with  his  re- 
quest,  as  he  had  collected  a  number  of  useless  followers,  whom 
we  must  have  fed  during  the  short  days.  He  accordingly  took 
his  departure,  accompanied  by  seventeen  persons,  which  was 
a  very  important  relief  to  our  daily  issue  of  provision.  T  fur- 
n.shed  them  with  ammunition  from  the  store  to  enable  them  to 
hunt  on  their  way  to  Marten  Lake,  where  they  intended  to 
nsh  until  the  return  of  spring. 

Calculating  that  the  stores,  which  had  been  ordered 
hom  York  Factory,  must  have  arrived  at  Fort  Nor-  °<=*°^<"'' 
man,  I  despatched  Mr.  Kendall  for  them ;  and  he  returned 
on  the  8th  of  October,  with  as  much  of  them  as  his  canoe 
would  carry.  The  men  were  immediately  furnished  with 
warm  c  othing,  of  which  the  eastern  party  were  in  great  need, 
haying  left  every  thing  on  quitting  the  sea-coast,  except  one 
suit  each.  We  were  rejoiced  at  the  receipt  of  a  large  packet 
of  letters  from  England,  dated  in  the  preceding  February. 
They  brought  out  the  gratifying  intelligence  that  my  friend 
Lieutenant  Back  had  been  promoted,  in  December,  1825,  to 
the  rank  of  Commander.  1  likewise  received  a  large  packet 
of  news  papers  from  his  Excellency  the  Rarl  of  Dalhousie, 
bovernor-in-Chief  of  Canada,  to  whom  I  take  this  opportunity 
of  returnmg  my  best  thanks  for  the  warm  interest  he  took  in 
the  welfare  of  the  Expedition. 

I  shall  now  briefly  trace  the  advance  of  winter:  the  nights 
were  frosty  and  the  weather  was  unsettled  and  gloomy,  from 
the  time  of  our  arrival  to  the  close  of  September.  Heavy  rain 
fell  on  the  2nd  of  October,  which  on  the  following  day  was 
succeeded  by  hard  frost  and  much  snow.  The  snow  which 
fell  on  the  8th  remained  on  the  ground  for  the  rest  of  the  sea- 
son. The  small  lake  was  frozen  on  the  12th,  from  which  day 
we  dated  the  commencement  of  winter  as  we  had  done  in  the 
preceding  year.  There  was  a  succession  of  gales,  and  almost 
constant  snow  from  that  time  to  the  close  of  the  month ;  and 
on  the  30th  the  thermometer  first  descended  below  zero.   The 


240 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


1 


snow  then  was  much  deeper  than  at  the  close  of  November  in 
the  former  year.  The  last  of  the  migratory  birds,  which  were 
a  few  hardy  ducks,  took  their  departure  on  the  18th  of  Oc- 
tober. 

Stormy  weather  kept  the  Bear  Lake  open  until 
November,     ^j^^  jg^j^  ^^  November,  nine  days  later  than  the 

year  before ;  and  for  some  weeks  we  received  no  assistance 
from  the  nets,  which  again  reduced  our  stock  of  meat  to  a 
small  quantity.  The  same  occupations,  amusements,  and  ex- 
ercise, were  followed  by  the  officers  and  men  as  in  the  former 
residence ;  and  the  occurrences  were  so  siiiiilar,  that  particular 
mention  of  them  is  unnecessary.  On  the  25th  of  November 
we  despatched  some  men  with  dogs  and  sledges  to  bring  the 
remainder  of  the  stores  from  Fort  Norman.  As  it  was  my  in- 
tention, as  soon  as  the  maps  and  drawings  could  be  finished, 
to  proceed  on  the  ice  to  Fort  Chipewyan,  in  order  to  secure 
provisions  for  the  out-going  of  the  party,  and  to  reach  England 
oy  the  earliest  conveyance,  I  requested  of  Mr.  Brisbois  to  pro- 
vide a  cariole,  sledges,  and  snow-shoes,  for  my  journey,  the 
birch  of  which  they  are  made  being  plentiful  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Fort  Norman,  and  he  having  a  better  workman  than 
any  at  our  establishment.  On  the  28th  Mackenzie  arrived 
from  M' Vicar's  Bay,  with  an  acceptable  supply  of  fine  white- 
fish.  We  learned  from  him  that  our  party,  as  well  as  the  In- 
dians, were  living  in  abundance ;  and  that  the  latter  had  shown 
their  wisdom  this  season,  not  only  in  taking  up  their  quarters 
at  that  place,  instead  of  remaining  about  the  Fort,  as  they  had 
done  in  the  former  year,  but  also  in  building  themselves  houses 
like  those  of  our  men,  and  thus  having  more  comforts  and 
better  shelter  than  they  had  ever  before  enjoyed.  The  fishery 
opposite  the  Fort  was  now  sufficiently  productive  for  our 
wants,  though  the  fish,  from  being  out  of  season,  disagreed  so 
much  with  several  of  the  men  as  to  cause  great  debility,  which 
was  the  more  distressing  to  us,  as  we  were  unable  to  supply 
the  indvalids  with  meat  on  more  than  two  days  in  the  week. 
Contrary  to  what  had  happened  last  season,  we  did  not  receive 
meat  this  year  from  more  than  six  or  seven  persons  of  either 
the  Hare  Indians  or  Dog-rib  tribes,  after  the  ice  set  in ;  this 
happened,  probably,  from  our  being  now  unprovided  with 
goods  to  exchange  for  their  furs ;  though  they  had  been  ex- 
pressly told  in  the  spring,  that  we  should  have  abundance  of 
ammunition,  tobacco,  and  other  supplies,  to  purchase  all  the 
meat  they  would  bring. 

By  the  return  of  our  men  from  Fort  Norman,  we  learned 
thftt  one  of  our  Do^-rib  huntftrs  had  murdfired  a  man  of  his 


[1826. 

ovemberin 
vhich  were 
8thof  Oc- 

open  until 
er  than  the 
>  assistance 
'  meat  to  a 
its,  and  ex- 
the  former 
I:  particular 
November 

0  bring  the 
was  my  in- 
be  finished, 
ir  to  secure 
ch  England 
bois  to  pro- 
ourney, the 

neighbour- 

rkman  than 

zie  arrived 

fine  white- 

1  as  the  In- 
had  shown 

jir  quarters 
as  they  had 
Ives  houses 
mforts  and 
rhc  fishery 
ve  for  our 
lisagreed  so 
ility,  which 
e  to  supply 
1  the  week, 
not  receive 
18  of  either 
set  in ;  this 
vided  with 
id  been  ex- 
undance  of 
lase  all  the 

we  learned 


November.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


241 


^f  hi 


i« 


tribe,  in  the  autumn,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bear  Lake  River 

tie Uoft'lhi'c'K'  t  ^T'^  ^'  •"^"'^^'^  -*«  ^he  truth'of 
ZenTini  ii  A-^u  ^^"."^  "^^"^^'5  and  he  was  in  conse- 
been  a  ri'"r^  f '^S^a'-f  ?  from  our  service.  His  victim  had 
carried  TH./r*?"?"''-^>°^^.  ^l^'^'^  «"d '»  this  instance  had 
of  d^er  Ji  Ta-^1'  ""^^  ^"'^  "'^''^'  ^^hile  he  was  in  pursuit 
the  .n  iVt  ^"^fu  "*"*""""  ^''°'"  *h^  ^^'^'  The  husband  pursued 
the  gu  Ity  pair  the  moment  he  discovered  their  flight  and  on 

es"a?ed  a'  T'  rT'l"*'{  ''''' ''''  ^^^^^^ '  but  ffi  woman 
a  Sp  m  "  rl"'  ^^  '^"l'"S  *^^  P*"^^^"^^  «f  "''"<J  to  turn 
She  d  5  nnf  h  '  '^*^'  ^""  ^^'"  •"  ^^^  ^'^  «f  h^'"g  discharged, 
her  sensp  p  ;  rj^^''  ^'?P^  punishment :  her  husband  struck 
have  comn  li^  h' ^T?^  V^  ^^^ '^''''^  ^^^'^  g""'  ^^^  would 
ties  of  tS  n  1  ''^'n '*'S:i*.'°"'  ^"t  for  the  cries  and  intrea- 
meIancho?t  l?"f  ^f  .  •.  I^l'  t'-ansaction  adds  another  to  the 
^PfS  ^  If  ?^^^°"*  ^'/ty  murders  which  have  been  per- 
petrated  on  the  borders  of  this  lake  since  1799,  when  the  first 
trading  post  was  established.  '  ""^ 

r.Jh'ihPnl-'^  '""^'^"1'  ^^^^  ^^"^^^  ^'•o'n  the  same  stock 
with  the  Chipewyans,  have  many  traditions  and  opinions  in 
common  with  that  people.  I  requested  Mr.  Dease  to  obta  n 
answers  from  the  old  men  of  the  tribe  to  a  few  queries  which 
1  drew  up,  and  the  following  is  the  substance  of  thfe  information 
he  procured  which  may  be  compared  with  the  more  extend- 
^f  th':  ChiptyL^^^^^   "'  ''"'^'^^^^'  <>^*h«g--al  belief 

fhP^fiT"'  '"'''''  they  said,  was,  according  to  the  tradition  of 
their  fathers,  named  Chape  wee.     He  found  the  worid  well 
stocked  with  food,  and  he  created  children,  to  whom  he  gave 
two  kinds  of  fruit,  the  black  and  the  white,  but  forbade  them 
to  eat  the  black.     Having  thus  issued  his  commands  for  the 
guidance  of  his  family,  he  took  leave  of  them  for  a  time,  and 
made  a  long  excursion  for  the  purpose  of  conducting  the  sun 
to  the  worid     During  this,  his  first  absence,  his  children  were 
obedient,  and  ate  only  the  white  fruit,  but  they  con-umed  it 
all ;  the  consequence  was,  that  when  he  a  second  time  absent- 
ed  himself  to  bring  the  moon,  and  they  longed  for  fruit,  they 
forgot  the  orders  of  their  father,  and  ate  of  the  black,  which 
was  the  only  kind  remaining.    He  was  much  displeased  on  his 
return,  and  told  them  that  in  future  the  earth  would  produce 
bad  Iruits,  and  that  they  would  be  tormented  by  sickness  and 
death— penalties  which  have  attached  to  his  descendants  to 
the  present  day.     Chapewee  himself  lived  so  long  that  his 
throat  was  worn  out,  and  he  could  no  longer  enjoy  life;  but  he 

31 


242 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


waa  unable  to  die,  until,  at  his  own  request,  one  of  his  people 
drove  a  beaver-tooth  into  his  head. 

The  same,  or  another  Chapewee  (for  there  is  some  uncer- 
tainty on  this  head,)  lived  with  his  family  on  a  strait  between 
two  seas.    Having  there  constixicted  a  weir  to  catch  fash,  such 
a  quantity  were  taken,  that  the  strait  was  choked  up,  and  the 
water  rose  and  overflowed  the  earth.     Chapewee  embarked 
with  his  family  in  a  canoe,  taking  with  them  all  manner  ot 
birds  and  beasts.     The  waters  covered  the  earth  for  many 
days,  but,  at  length,  Chapewee  said,  we  cannot  hve  always 
thus,  we  must  find  land  again,  and  he  accordingly  sent  a  bea- 
ver to  search  for  it.     The  beaver  was  drowned,  and  his  car- 
case was  seen  floating  on  the  water ;  on  which  Chapewee  de- 
spatched a  musk-rat  on  the  same  errand.     The  second  mes- 
senger was  long  absent,  and  when  he  did  return  was  near  dying 
with  fatigue,  but  he  had  a  little  earth  in  his  paws.    The  sight 
of  the  earth  rejoiced  Chapewee,  but  his  first  care  was  about 
the  safety  of  his  diligent  servant,  the  rat,  which  he  rubbed 
gently  with  his  hands,  and  cherished  in  his  bosom,  until  it  re- 
vived     He  next  took  up  the  earth,  and  mouldering  it  with  his 
fingers,  placed  it  on  the  water,  where  it  increased  by  degrees 
until  it  formed  an  island  in  the  ocean.     A  wolf  was  the  first 
animal  Chapewee  placed  on  the  infant  earth,  but  the  weight 
proving  too  great,  it  began  to  sink  on  one  side,  and  was  in 
danger  of  turning  over.     To  prevent  this  accident  the  wolf 
was  directed  to  move  round  the  island,  which  he  did  lor  a 
whole  year,  and  in  that  time  the  earth  increased  so  much  m 
size,  that  all  on  board  the  canoe  were  able  to  disembark  on  it. 
Chapewee,  on  landing,  stuck  up  a  piece  of  wood,  which  be- 
came a  fir-tree,  and  grew  with  amazing  rapidity,  until  its  top 
reached  the  skies.     A  squirrel  ran  up  this  tree,  and  was  pur- 
sued by  Chapewee,  who  endeavoured  to  knock  it  down,  but 
could  not  overtake  it.     He  continued  the  chase,  however,  un- 
til he  reached  the  stars,  where  he  found  a  fine  plain,  and  a 
beaten  road.     In  this  road  he  set  a  snare  made  of  his  sister's 
hair,  and  then  returned  to  the  earth.     The  sun  appeared  as 
usual  in  the  heavens  in  the  morning,  but  at  noon  it  was  caught 
by  the  snare  which  Chapewee  had  set  for  the  squirrel,  and  the 
sky  was  instantly  darkened.     Chapewee's  family  on  this  said 
to  him,  you  must  have  done  something  wrong  when  you  were 
aloft,  for  we  no  longer  enjoy  the  light  of  day  ;  "  I  have,"  re- 
plied he,  "but  it  was  unintentionally."    Chapewee  then  en- 
deavoured  to  repair  the  fault  he  had  committed,  and  sent  a 
number  of  animals  up  the  tree  to  release  the  sun,  by  cutting 
the  gnare,  but  the  intense  heat  of  that  luminary  reduced  them 


the 


[182G. 

3  people 

B  uncer- 
between 
ish,  such 
,  and  the 
mbarked 
anner  of 
or  many 
3  always 
it  a  bea- 
1  his  car- 
ewee  de- 
ond  mes- 
ear  dying 
fhe  sight 
ras  about 
e  rubbed 
ntil  it  re- 
t  with  his 
y  degrees 
the  first 
le  weight 
nd  was  in 
the  wolf 
did  for  a 
much  in 
lark  on  it. 
which  be- 
til  its  top 
was  pur- 
lown,  but 
vever,  un- 
lin,  and  a 
lis  sister's 
peared  as 
^as  caught 
si,  and  the 
1  this  said 
you  were 
liave,"  re- 
e  then  en- 
nd  sent  a 
by  cutting 
uced  them 


November.] 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


243 


a  to  ashes  The  efforts  of  the  more  active  animals  being 
thus  frustrated,  a  ground  mole,  though  such  a  grovelling  and 
awkward  beast,  succeeded  by  burrowing  undef  the  road  in 

br!,nH  V"  ''  ""ff  i"^^  ^"^  ^"*  ^^""^e''  the  snare  which 
bound  the  sun.  It  lost  its  eyes,  however,  the  instant  it 
thrust  ,ts  head  into  the  light,  and  its  nose  and  teeth  have 

fnrZ?  .  ^:J?^"'  ■'  '^  ''"T^-  Chapewee's  island,  dur- 
mg  these  transactions,  increased  to  the  present  size  of  the 
American  Continent ;  and  he  traced  the  course  of  the  rivers 
and  scraped  out  the  lakes  by  drawing  his  fingers  through  the 
th.1hfr^  Tl  .^"°"'^  i*'  ^^^  quadrupeds,  birds,  and  fishes, 
riZ  i  ??^  1'*'°"'^  ^"^  endowing  them  with  certain  capa- 
cities,  he  told  them  that  they  were  in  future  to  provide  for 

hT'f  ""T.u^-^^*/'  ^^''^T  ™^"  ^^"'^  <^estroy  them  whenever 
thei  drp/^h""  T^"^\  ^^•?  *^°»«°l^them,  he  said,  that  when 

thrLn  •  /  !{ '^""".'^  ^'^  !'^^  ^  '""^  «^  g''^^^'  which,  when 
thrown  into  the  water,  springs  again  into  life.     The  animals 

Objected  to  this  arrangement,  and  said,  let  us  when  we  die  be 
as  a  stone  which,  when  thrown  into  a  lake,  disappears  forever 
from  he  sight  of  man.    Chapewee's  family  complained  of  the 
penalty  of  death  entailed  upon  them  for  eating  the  black  fruit 
on  which  he  granted  that  such  of  them  as  dreamed  certain 
dreams  should  be  men  of  medicine,  capable  of  curing  diseases 
and  of  prolonging  life.    In  order  to  preserve  this  virtue,  they 
were  not  to  tell  their  dreams  until  a  certain  period  had  elapsed, 
lo  acquire  the  power  of  foretelling  events,  they  were  to  take 
an  ant  alive,  and  insert  it  under  the  skin  of  the  palm  of  the 
hand,  without  letting  any  one  know  what  they  had  don« 

For  a  long  time  Chapewee's  descendants  were  united  as  one 
iamily,  but  at  length  some  young  men  being  accidentally  killed 
m  a  game,  a  quarrel  ensued,  and  a  general  dispersion  of  man- 
kind  took  place.    One  Indian  fixed  his  residence  on  the  bor- 
ders  of  the  lake,  taking  with  him  a  dog  big  with  young     The 
pups  m  due  time  were  littered,  and  the  Indian,  when  he  went 
out  to  hsh,  carefully  tied  them  up  to  prevent  their  straying 
Several  times  as  he  approached  his  tent,  he  heard  a  noise  of 
children  talking  and  playing;  but  on  entering  it  he  only  per- 
ceiyed  the  pups  tied  up  as  usual.     His  curiosity  being  excited 
by  the  noises  he  had  heard,  he  determined  to  watch,  and  one 
day  pretending  to  go  out  and  fish,  according  to  custom,  he 
concealed  himself  in  a  convenient  place.     In  a  short  time  he 
again  heard  voices,  and  rushing  suddenly  into  the  tent,  beheld 
some  beautiful! children  sporting  and  laughing,  with  the  dog- 
skins lymg  by  their  side.     He  threw  the  skins  into  the  fire,  and 
jhe  cmldren,  retaimug  their  proper  forms,  grew  up,  and  were 
the  ancestor?  ot  the  Hog-rib  nation. 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1827. 


344 

On  Mr.  Dease  questioning  some  of  the  elderly  mc^as  to 
their  knowledge  of  a  supreme  Bemg,  they  replied—"  We  be- 
Se  that  there  is  a  Great  Spirit,  who  created  every  thmg, 
«  Zlh  us  and  the  world  for  our  use  We  suppose  that  he  dwel 
.'  in  the  lands  from  whence  the  white  people  come,  that  he  is 
"Snd  to  the  inhabitants  of  those  lands,  and  that  there  are 
u  people  there  who  never  die :  the  winds  that  blow  from  that 
"Quarter  (south)  are  always  warm.  He  does  »;>*  ^"^^^^^^^ 
"  wretched  state  of  our  island,  nor  the  pitiful  condition  in 

"  'ro'the'^question,  whom  do  your  medicine  ^en  address  when 
they  coniu?e  ?  They  answered,-"  We  do  not  think  that  they 
«  s/eaHo  the  master  of  life,  for  if  they  did  we  should  fare 
«  better  than  we  do,  and  should  not  die.    He  does  not  inhabit 

"  our  an  s.  ^^^  ^^^  evening  of  the  1st  of  December  a  bril- 
December.  jj^^^  ^^^^^  appeared  in  the  western  quarter,  which 
had  been  indistinctly  seen  the  two  preceding  mghts.  A  Ime 
drawn  through  «  and,  Urs^  Majoris  led  to  its  PO^'tion ;  it  also 
formed  a  trapezium  with  «  Aquila^  and  «  Lyra,  and  a  Corona 
Borealis.  This  was  the  last  n.gh  of  its  being  visible.  1  he 
temperature  had  been  unusually  high  for  several  days  about  this 
time  +  18  above  zero;  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  night  of 
the  1st,  the  atmosphere  gloomy;  and  we  amused  ourselves 
with  conjecturing,  whether  this  extrordinary  warnith  and  the 
density  of  the  clouds,  could  in  any  way  be  ascribed  to  the 

^'^  At  Christmas  we  were  favoured  by  a  visit  from  Mr  Bnsbois, 
to  whom  we  felt  much  obliged  for  the  care  he  had  taken  of 
our  sea-stores,  beside  many  personal  civilities.     The  visit  ot  a 
stranger  is  always  heartily  welcomed  in  such  a  desolate  region, 
and  to  provide  for  the  entertainment  of  the  party  during  Mr. 
Brisbois's  stay.  Captain  Back  and  Mr.  Kendall  displayed  their 
ingenuity  in  cutting  out  several  pasteboard  figures,  to  represent 
behind  an  illuminated  screen  the  characters  of  a  comic  piece, 
which  Captain  Back  had  writi-^n  for  the  occasion.  1  he  exhi- 
bition was  entirely  new  to  most  of  the  party,  and  its  execution 
afforded  such  general  amusement,  that  it  was  repeated  on 
three  nights  at  the  request  of  the  men.     1  he  JNew 
January,     year  was  celebrated  by  a  dance,  which  closed  our 
festivities;  and  on  Mr.  Brisbois  quitting  us  the  following  day, 
we  resumed  our  ordinary  occupations.     Two  Hare  Indians 
arrived  at  the  fort,  whom  Mr.  Kendall  recognised  as  the  per- 
sons who  had  brought  provisions  to  Dr.  Richardson^  party,  as 
goon  as  they  had  heard  of  his  having  reached  the  Dear  i.ai^c 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


245 


January.] 

Portage ;  and  we  had  much  pleasure  in  rewarding  their  promp- 
titude  on  that  occasion,  by  a  substantial  present  and  a  silver 
medal  They  were  particularly  pleased  at  the  medals,  and 
assured  us  that  they  should  be  proud  to  show  them  to  the  rest 
ot  their  tribe  as  tokens  of  our  approbation 

?."  f^  r'^T^  ""I  uf  "^^^  °^  '^""""^'  *^*^  temperature  being 
~f  ,'  I  'n  .  ^?"l*"  ^'^^^  '^'"^  mercury  in  the  mould  of  a 
pistol  bullet,  and  fired  it  against  a  door  at  the  distance  of  six 
paces.  A  small  portion  of  the  mercury  penetrated  to  the  depth 
of  one  eighth  of  an  inch,  but  the  remainder  only  just  lodged  in 
the  wood  Much  snow  fell  in  the  second  week  of  January; 
and  on  the  12th,  we  ascertained  that  its  average  depth  was 
two  feet  in  the  sheltered  parts  of  the  woods.  The  weather 
became  mild  after  the  20th ;  and  on  the  22nd,  the  sun's  rays 
were  so  powerful  as  to  raise  a  spirit  thermometer  with  a 
blackened  bulb,  to  +  30,  5°.  when  the  temperature  of  the  air 
was  --3  5°.  A  very  brilliant  and  clearly  defined  parhelion 
was  visible  at  the  time,  and  there  were  only  a  few  hght  clouds 
1  be  wind  was  east,  and  as  usual,  with  the  wind  from  that 
quarter  when  the  sky  is  clear,  the  distant  land  appeared  much 
distorted  by  refraction. 

The  documents  which  had  been  preparing  being  now  nearly 
finished,  we  sent  for  the  cariole,  &c.  from  Fort  Norman.  When 
the  men  came  back,  they  brought  the  information,  that,  accord- 
ing  to  the  report  of  the  Indians,  the  ice  was  so  rough  on  the 
Mackenzie  above  Fort  Norman,  that  travelling  would  be  ex- 
tremely difficult.  I  therefore  abandoned  the  intention  of 
proceeding  by  that  way,  and  resolved  on  passing  through  ^^*^- 
the  woods  to  Fort  Simpson,  as  soon  as  guides  could  be  pro- 
cured. The  delay  afforded  me  the  opportunity  of  registerine 
the  lowest  temperature  we  had  witnessed  in  this  country  At 
a  quarter  after  eight  in  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  February  the 

thermometer  descended  to  — 58° ;  it  had  been 57.  ' 

5',  and  57.  3°  thrice  in  the  course  of  this  and  the  ^^^'•""y- 
preceding  day—between  the  5th  and  8th,  its  general  state  was 
from  —48°  to  —52°,  though  it  occasionally  rose  to  —43°. 

At  Fort  Enterprise,  during  a  similar  degree  of  cold,*  the 
atmosphere  had  been  calm :  but  here  we  had  a  light  wind 
which  sometimes  approached  to  a  fresh  breeze.  The  sky  was 
cloudless  the  whole  time.  Some  of  our  men,  as  well  as  the 
Indians,  were  travelling  on  the  lake  during  this  cold  without 
experiencing  any  greater  inconvenience  than  having  their  faces 
frost  bitten.  The  dogs,  however,  suffered  severely,  three  be- 
ing completely  lamed  by  the  frost,  and  all  of  them  becoming 


246 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1827. 

much  thinner.*  These  cold  days  were  followed  by  windy 
though  mild  weather,  which  brought  the  rein-deer  nearer  to 
the  Establishment ,'  and  our  hunters  killed  seven  within  a  day's 
march.  Their  re-appearance  in  our  neighbourhood  was  very 
gratifying  to  the  whole  party,  as  we  were  heartily  tired  of  a 
hsh-diet,  and  I  felt  an  especial  pleasure  at  being  able  to  quit 
the  place  without  the  least  apprehension  of  the  party  being  in 
want  of  provision. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  amount  of  provision  we 
obtained  at  Fort  Franklin,  from  the  time  of  Mr.  Dease's  arrival 
to  the  close  of  January  1 827 ;  independent  of  the  supplies  of 
pemmican,  &;c.  for  the  sea  voyage,  which  were  procured  from 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Small  FLh,  Bear  Lake  Herring,  79,440.— Trout,  3,475.— 
Pounds  of  fresh  meat,  24,053.— Dried  nbs  of  Rein  Deer, 
2,370. — Pounds  of  pounded  deers  meat,  1 ,744. — Pounds  of 
fat  or  tallow,  2,929.— Rein-deer  tongues,  1,849.— Beaver,  12. 
— Partridges,  386. — Hares,  52. 

On  the  1 6th  of  February,  Augustus  and  two  Dog-ribs  were 
sent  forward  to  be  at  the  track  in  the  line  of  my  intended  route. 
My  departure  being  fixed  for  the  20th,  the  charts,  drawings, 
journals,  and  provisions  were  distributed  between  the  cariole 
and  three  sledges  of  which  my  train  consisted ;  and  as  the  dogs 
were  in  too  weak  a  condition  for  drawing  heavy  burdens,  two 
Indians  were  engaged,  to  accompany  us  four  days,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  carrying  part  of  the  pemmican.  I  afterwards  delivered 
written  instructions  to  Captain  Back,  directing  him  to  proceed 
to  York  Factory  as  soon  as  the  ice  should  break,  and  from 
thence,  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  ship,  to  England,  taking  with  him 
the  British  party,  but  to  send  the  Canadians  to  Montreal.  Au- 
gustus and  Ooligbuck  were  to  be  forwarded  to  Churchill,  that 
they  might  rejoin  their  relatives. 

At  ten  A.M.,  I  quitted  the  Fort,  accompanied 
Tuesday,  20th.  ^^  g^^  of  our  men  and  the  two  Indians,  the  latter 
dragging  each  sixty  pounds  of  pemmican  on  their  sledges. 
Captain  Back,  the  officers,  and  men  assembled  to  give  us  a 
farewell  salute  of  three  hearty  cheers,  which  served  to  renew 
my  regret  at  leaving  a  society  whose  members  had  endeared 
themselves  to  me  by  unremitting  attention  to  their  duties,  and 
the  greatest  personal  kindness.  We  crossed  the  lake  expedi- 
tiously, favoured  by  a  north-west  gale,  and  then  continued  our 

*  Notwithstanding  the  severity  of  the  weather,  we  had  great  difficulty  in 
causing  these  animals  to  depart  from  their  usual  custom  of  sleeping  in  the 
snow,  and  in  inducing  them  to  occupy  the  warm  houses  which  were  built 
for  them. 


[1827. 

by  windy 
•  nearer  to 
bin  a  day^s 
i  was  very 
tired  of  a 
ble  to  quit 
ty  being  in 

tvision  we 
se's  arrival 
supplies  of 
:ured  from 

t,  3,475.— 
Lein  Deer, 
Pounds  of 
Jeaver,  12. 

;-ribs  were 
ided  route. 
,  drawings, 
the  cariole 
as  the  dogs 
rdens,  two 
or  the  pur- 
s  delivered 
to  proceed 
:,  and  from 
g  with  him 
itreal.  Au- 
rchill,  that 

companied 
,  the  latter 
ir  sledges, 
give  us  a 
1  to  renew 
1  endeared 
iuties,  and 
ke  expedi- 
tinued  our 

t  difficulty  in 
ieping  in  the 
h  were  built 


February.] 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


247 


b?en  so  fully descrihjfi  V°  """'^  "^ Proceeding,  having 
other  travelTe™  n  Si"oZvT"  ?"'^«™'  =>""  ''^  »«vera! 
"Mually  set  forward  atthLfiJ^'    "'*'*  "»'  '•«Poat  them.    We 

until  »™set  haTint ttoS:^  „T'\^r"'="  ?/"8'"  »"''  '"^"^^-^ 
depended  on  the  dlnth  of  .„    '"''^^'ffast.  The  rate  of  walking 

i»ai:trprois';?hrr:i'i¥er"^r?"'''^^^''^^<'- 

vantage  of  the  resf  nfiyJ     .   u  r^^'^wards  learned,  took  ad- 
of  them,  to  turn  back  to  t^hf  ^  ^""^  ^°™^  ^'^^^'^^^  *"  advance 

thepemmicann  asta^e  which'thJ^°°V"^  *^^^^  ^'P^^^' 
side.     Supposing  that  thev  bin      ^i  T'}'.''''^^^  by  the  road 
the  gale  that  wa!  then  biowinf  °"^>\^?^t^d  in  consequence  of 
them  before  th^  fonowinl  mn^' ''^  ^'t  "^*  ^^"^  *«  ^^ok  after 
path  was  covered  wUhthe  "now'Ii^Vr*'''!.  ^'''^  '''^'  «f  their 
""•ght  possibly  spend  some  Z^'     V  '",^  ^'  ^  considered  we 
the  wisest  coui^e  was  rDut^hr  ^  ?"'**'i'  ^^^''^'^'  '  thought 
allowance  thaTusTa  ,  anS  p  oai^^^.'^.^S^  - -ho^r 
conduct  affords  another  instance  of  ihr?.^    i"""""^^'     ^^^'^ 
ought  to  be  placed  Tthe  Indi/n,  !f  ^k''"'^  dependence  that 
than  ordinar^  exertion  is  required  '  """'^^''  "^^"  '"-^ 

thid;rc?ettK:^^^^^^^^^^^  ^evel  country, 

east  and  west  if  our  col^Thl  ^  T^^' '"  '^'  ^'^^^"^^ 
better  wooded  for  the  sucreedinl^h  ?""m^  ""^^^  ""^^^"  «nd 
ed  a  steep  range  7hills  SpH     ^^  ^/''^  u^^  "^''^  ^^ 

above  the  surrounding  land  tndhen'n"'  "^^*  ^""^''^^  ^«^t 
of  lower  hills  and  va]lip«    1        JT"^'''^^^^  succession 

and  following  that  rter  for  Ihir^mif  *'  '^''  Mackenzie, 
son  on  the  8th  of  March    f&  ?^^^^^^  *«  Fort  Simp- 

'y^t^^^^^^^^  ^  -"  woord  country, 

some  consideSlaCwhTctarpT-^"  '  ^»^^  Mackenzie,  an^d 
one  solitary  familv  of  Fn^,  ^  ^^'^  ''°^"  '»  the  map.  But 

^.e  -e^tti'r.2;ri:^rrrcr„fFcr'  ^"'' 

.KerrsZrft^Ste^'^t:;'™^^^ 

living  in  abundance,  anrwere;ve,,'cirh 'J  T^'f  "'•  ^^'^ 

asting  principally  of  hare  E  '  '"'"'  '''*''  ""''■ 

inflrof"^o^ap'p"t,!'':i'l^-'-  of  ^Oi'trict,  was 

«ons,  in  conseoui^"  f  .^^.i^t   ■'"'  ""^  '!"'''  "^  P™"" 
'  •-  '""'aus  naung  made  off  with  the 


248 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1827. 


pemmican,  he  kindly  sent  a  supply  of  fresh  meat  for  our  use ; 
and  on  our  arrival  at  the  Fort,  he  gave  us  the  most  friendly  re- 
ception. Our  Indian  guide  had  never  been  nearer  to  Fort 
Simpson  by  land,  than  the  Lake  of  the  Elevated  Land,  and 
only  once  by  the  course  of  the  Mackenzie,  many  years  before 
the  Fort  was  built ;  and  yet  if  he  had  not  been  led  aside  by 
falling  upon  the  track  leading  to  the  Indians  above-mentioned, 
he  would  have  come  upon  the  Mackenzie,  directly  opposite 
Fort  Simpson.  His  course  he  told  me  was  governed  by  his 
recollection  of  a  particular  mountain,  which  he  remembered 
to  have  noticed  from  the  Mackenzie,  and  which  we  now  pass- 
ed within  two  miles,  but  on  his  former  visit,  he  did  not  ap- 
proach it  nearer  than  eighteen  miles.  Its  outline  must  have 
appeared  so  different  when  seen  from  these  distances,  that  one 
can  hardly  imagine  a  less  observant  eye  than  that  of  an  Indian 
recognising  any  of  its  distinguishing  points,  especially  as  it  was 
not  a  detached  mountain,  but  formed  one  of  a  line  of  hills  of 
considerable  extent.  Our  dogs  being  completely  tired,  I  re- 
mained a  week  to  recruit  their  strength.  During  this  interval 
I  had  the  opportunity  of  examining  all  the  accounts  which  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  to  present  for  supplies  to  the 
Expedition  from  this  department,  and  of  making  provision  for 
the  outward  journey  of  Captain  Back  and  his  party.  Arrange- 
ments were  also  made,  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  should 
take,  at  a  valuation,  the  spare  stores  of  the  Expedition  on  its 
quitting  Bear  Lake.  1  accompanied  Mr.  Smith  to  a  part  of 
the  River  of  the  Mountains,  where  a  portion  of  the  bank,  se- 
veral acres  in  extent,  had  been  torn  off,  and  thrown  a  conside- 
rable distance  into  the  channel  of  the  river.  The  disruption 
took  place  in  the  preceding  November,  some  days  after  the 
water  had  been  frozen,  and  when  there  was  no  apparent  cause 
for  its  separation.  When  the  water  is  flowing  over  the  banks, 
and  the  earth  is  in  consequence  loosened,  the  falling  of  the 
bank  is  not  unfrequent  in  the  Mackenzie,  though  on  a  much 
smaller  scale  than  in  this  instance.  I  can  only  account  for  the 
separation  of  the  mass  after  the  ground  had  been  frozen,  by 
the  supposition,  that  there  was  some  spring  of  warm  water  in 
its  rear,  which  loosened  the  soil,  and  that  the  pressure  of  the 
ice  contributed,  with  the  weight  of  snow  at  the  top,  to  its  over- 
throw. .  . 
At  the  time  of  my  visit,  an  Indian  woman  committed  sui- 
cide, by  hanging  herself,  in  a  fit  of  jealousy,  at  an  encampment 
a  short  distance  from  the  Fort.  I  had  thought  that  suicide 
was  extremely  rare  among  the  Northern  Indians ;  but  I  subse- 
auentl?  learned  that  it  was  not  so  uncommon  as  I  had  imagined, 


[1827. 

our  use ; 
iendly  re- 
'  to  Fort 
jand,  and 
irs  before 

aside  by 
entioned, 

opposite 
ed  by  his 
icmbered 
now  pass- 
i  not  ap- 
nust  have 
,  that  one 
Bin  Indian 

as  it  was 
>f  hills  of 
red,  I  re- 
s  interval 
vhich  the 
2s  to  the 
vision  for 

Arrange- 
ny  should 
ion  on  its 
a  part  of 

bank,  se- 
i  conside- 
lisruption 

after  the 
ent  cause 
he  banks, 
ig  of  the 
I  a  much 
nt  for  the 
•ozen,  by 

water  in 
re  of  the 
)  its  over- 

litted  sui- 
ampment 
it  suicide 
it  I  subse- 
imagined, 


March.] 


OF  THE  rOLAR  SEA. 


249 


ons-7'  rtT^f'''''  '"^^^'^"^  '^^^  o<^cuTed  in  the  year 

Jc.:;terf  tr^rti^^s^r^^^^    4q 

^"n  7rr'^  °^^^^  indications  o  an  earl/^^^^^^^^  '"^ 

unfit  for  the  journey  to  sfav    F  ^l?n  """"^  ^^"'"^  P'-^^ed 

tohimfortheskiro^famoul^^^^^  ^>^o  indebted 

M'Pherson  for  the  skins  of  ..vl  f  ^  "i?^  ^  '^'"^ '  and  to  Mr. 
from  the  neighbourhood  of  thn  R  T'i^"'"  ^"""^'«  ^"^  birds, 
added  to  our  conectbn  I  «vi,  ^'^'^  Mountains,  which  they 
with  the  Indian  S  BeTLr'  ^''^  ^^  ^^  "^^  men 
sledges ;  but  as  we  wero  nn.M     ^'  "^^  ^^^  "°^^  ««'/  ^vvo 

iad.ng,  Mr.  SmUhTadTe  oltftoS'  '.."h'^^^  1  «"^ 
of  his  men  to  convev  a  u^rtJihT    ^^.^?"d  ^  fledge  and  one 

the  distance  of  J^^hf  rniCle  1^  Z7T'''  ^^  ^'^"^  ^.^^^-  ^^ 
sledge,  which  Mr  M  Vic  ir  h.H  LnT  r^^"  "^'"^  ^  ''^"^'^  and 
Lakt     but  beim/wdl  provided  T  H^^    ^^1'  ""^  ^'^  ^'^"^  ^lave 

oft.Hs'party,tho^ughwrd:;it^l'g      t^ 

as  we  proceeded,  and  also  from^  romeTnosirnr        *''*"'' 

which  they  had  made  on  the  route  ^  °^  provision 

Following  the  course  of  the  Mackenzie,  we 
arrived   on  the  21st,  at  the  expansion  of  the     Wednesday,  sist. 
nver  called  the  Little  Lake,  and  there  had  thn  ni 
meeting  two  Canadians,  on  their  way  to  n.Jj    P'^^^"''f  ^^ 
packet  of  letters  from  EnVanH      W    i   ^.^^^^^^^e,  with  a 

destination,  under  the  charge  of  M'Leav  who  h?H  o.  ' 

nied  me  from  Bear  Lake,  a^id  retained  oC  of  tht  P     T^"" 
in  his  stead.     We  arrived  at  Fnrf  Ro^  .      ^'^^  Canadians 

Lake  to  breakfast!  oT;re'26;h,?nd  u'ctm:"; ^ad' the'^^ 
piness  of  receiving  the  friendly' attentionro?M  MV^'a^L' 
whom  It  will  be  remembered  by  the  readers  of  L  i  V  m  ' 
live,  that  the  members  of  that  ExVedTtion  w.rp^  ^."'''" 
debted  for  his  tender  care  of  thS^tlTr".  if^r^T' Vr" 
Richardson  had  qu  tted  this  nUn^  ;«  fu^  -»«uerings.     Ur. 

for  the  purpo.  o^joll g'SJl'o^VltSTetf  5:^^^^ 
mst  m  the  Saskalchawan  River,  and  that  he  miSt  1;  1: 
benefit  of  an  earher  spnng  than  in  this  quarter  to  collect  nTaif, 

-^ ,..,  n..!ngdeoiiou3  of  remaining  as  long  as  f  could, 


2Sd 


gECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1827 


without  incurring  the  risk  of  exposure  to  the  thaw  on  nny  vray 
to  Fort  Chipewyan. 

I  was  glad  to  find  that  the  Chipcwyans  and  Copper  Indians 
were  at  length  employing  dogs  to  drag  Iheir  sledges.  A  super- 
stitious belief  that  their  own  origin  was  derived  from  those 
animals,  had  for  several  years  past  thrown  this  laborious  and 
degrading  occupation  on  the  poor  women,  who,  by  the  change, 
experienced  a  most  happy  relief.  It  was  indeed,  highly  grati- 
fying  to  observe  that  these  Indians  no  longer  beat  their  wives 
in  the  cruel  manner  to  which  they  had  been  formerly  accus- 
tomed ;  and  that,  in  the  comparative  tenderness  with  which 
they  now  treat  the  sex,  they  have  made  the  firs<  and  greatest 
step  to  all  moral  and  general  improvement. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  on  receiving,  at  Bear  Lake,  a  re- 
port of  the  traces  of  white  people  having  been  seen  near  the 
sea-coast,  I  had  requested  that  Mr.  M' Vicar  would  collect  a 
party  of  Indians,  and  send  them  to  the  spot  to  convey  a  letter 
from  me  to  Captain  Parry.  Mr.  M'Vicar  now  informed  me 
that  some  Indians  had  left  his  Fort  for  the  purpose,  under  the 
charge  of  a  Canadian,  named  Joseph  St.  Pierre,  who  volun- 
teered for  the  occasion,  but  the  Indians  continued  with  him 
only  for  a  short  distance  beyond  the  east  end  of  Slave  Lake, 
when  they  became  weary  of  their  journey,  and  dropping  off 
one  by  one,  left  him  alone.  St.  Pierre,  however,  having  deter- 
mined to  deliver  the  letter  to  Captain  Parry,  if  possible,  per- 
severed for  many  days  in  a  fruitless  search  for  the  river  on  the 
banks  of  which  the  marks  were  reported  to  have  been  seen  ; 
even  after  he  had  sustained  the  loss  of  all  his  clothes  (except 
those  on  his  person,)  by  the  grass  catching  fire  when  he  was 
asleep ;  but  at  length,  being  short  of  food,  his  shoes  worn  out, 
and  almost  without  covering  for  his  feet,  he  was  compelled  to 
return  to  the  Fort.  He  was  not  at  the  house  at  the  time  of  my 
visit,  but  I  left  an  order  with  Mr.  M'Vicar,  that  he  might  be 
rewarded  for  his  zeal  and  exertions,  and  handsomely  remu- 
nerated for  his  loss. 

The  subsequent  journey  to  the  Athabasca  Lake  occu- 
^P"''  pied  eight  days;  we  arrived  at  Fort  Chipewyan  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  12th  of  April.  I  found  Mr.  Stewart,  the  Chief 
Factor  of  the  Department,  surrounded  by  a  large  body  of  In- 
dians, who  quitted  the  Fort  as  soon  as  they  had  exchanged 
their  furs,  in  order  to  seek  their  living  by  fishing  and  hunting 
wild  fowl,  instead  of  passing  four  or  five  weeks  in  indolence 
about  the  Establishment,  as  had  been  their  custom  at  this  sea- 
son for  many  preceding  years.    This  beneficial  change  of  con 


* 


rfcorf     lo 


I  .nmnnnv 
£ ,• 


[1827 

my  way 

r  Indians 
A  super- 
om  those 
rious  and 
3  change, 
hly  grati- 
eir  wives 
•ly  accus- 
th  which 
1  greatest 

ake,  a  re- 
I  near  the 

collect  a 
y  a  letter 
)rmed  me 
under  the 
ho  volun- 

with  him 
i\e  Lake, 
)pping  off 
ing  dcter- 
sible,  per- 
'er  on  the 
ecn  seen ; 
3S  (except 
;n  he  was 
worn  out, 
npelled  to 
ime  of  my 

might  be 
cly  remu- 

ake  occu- 
yan  in  the 
the  Chief 
ady  of  In- 
2XC hanged 
id  hunting 
indolence 
it  this  sea- 
ige  of  con- 
Oomnany 


April.] 


or  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


S61 


' 


»nd' l!  ';ZfoV""f-  '•"'"''  '"'"  "•«  ■">^"'»™  deportment, 

J    »viiujesome  regulations   have  been    ntrodiirp<I  »w  tu^ 

and  thosp  nf  f  hL  r  "f  *^"^*^^''^  '^^""g  supplied  daily, 

ana  those  of  the  men  frequently,  with  potatoes  and  barlev 
Such  luxuries  were  very  rarely  found  Lyon^  Cumberland 
j^urn:;.'"  ^'^  ""^^  ^^^^  "^  *-^^"^d  during  my  fo^tr 

wM^fh '  i"i  ^  ^^^P  '"*^''^'*  '"  ^h*^  welfare  of  this  country  in 
which  I  have  spent  a  large  portion  of  the  last  seven  yeS  I 
have  much  pleasure  in  recording  these  improvements -and  in 
stating  my  conviction,  that  the  benevolent  wishes  of  the  0^ 
rectors,  respecting  the  inhabitants  of  their  territo  ies  wflUe 

no  Th'e  ch'IeTfctor^P;^^"?  ^'^^  ^^^^^  ^-'^-t  Sove'r! 
nor,  ttie  chiei  factors,  and  the  traders  of  the  Company 

Hilj^lf!!  r*?  !"  ™)^/°:.T'"  Narrative,  that  the  Northern  In- 
dians  had  cherished  a  belief  for  some  years,  that  a  great  change 
was  about  to  take  place  in  the  natural  ord^r  of  things!  and  thit 
among  other  advantages  arising  from  it,  their  own  cliditbn  of 
ife  was  to  be  materially  bettered.  This  story,  I  was  now  in- 
formed by  Mr.  Stewart,  originated  with  a  woman,  whose  his 

If  {h'Pfi'w  n  '"^  ^'''''"'"^'  «f  ^  ^hort  notice.  While  Hv^^g 
at  the  N.W.  Company's  Post,  on  the  Columbia  River  a  hi 
wife  of  one  of  the  Canadian  servants,  she  formeVa  sudden  re! 
solution  of  becoming  a  warrior ;  and  throwing  aside  her  female 

tl'di:JT'  ''T'^  '"  ^  ^"'^^^'^  --"-•  Having  pro! 
ion  f  nf f  '  r  r  '"^  "''■°'^''  ""^  «  horse,  she  sallied  forth  to 
join  a  party  of  her  countrymen  then  going  to  war;  and  in  her 
first  essay,  displayed  so  much  courage^s  to  attrac  gen^  al  re 

0    b;ave;v  t^T  '"  "^"''^  ^''§'^*^"^^  ^y  h^r  ^"bseq^ent  feats 

cLmJnT'  TK  "'"^  ^T^  "'"'^  ?"*  themselves  under  her 

aTTr^K  ^kJkI^:::?.";^. --  --  generally  followed,  and, 

""~ "— mc  iiic  priiicipal  leaaer  oi  the  tribe,  under 


252 


SECOND  JOl'RNKV  TO  TIIK  SHORKS 


[1827. 


the  desi'^nalion  of  the  "  Manhke  Woman."  lieing  young,  and 
of  a  dch'cate  frame,  her  followers  attributed  h*!r  exploits  to  the 
possession  of  supernatural  power,  and,  therefore,  received 
whatever  she  said  with  implicit  faith.  To  maintain  her  m- 
fluence  during  peace,  the  lady  thought  proper  to  invent  the 
above-mentioned  prediction,  which  was  quickly  spread  through 
the  whole  northern  district.  At  a  later  period  of  her  life,  our 
heroine  undertook  to  convey  a  packet  of  importance  from  the 
Company's  Post  on  the  Columbia  to  that  in  New  Caledonia, 
through  a  tract  of  country  which  had  not,  at  that  time,  been 
passed  by  the  traders,  and  which  was  known  to  be  infested  by 
several  hostile  tribes.  She  chose  for  her  companion  another 
woman,  whom  she  passed  oil  as  her  wife.  They  were  at- 
tacked by  a  party  of  Indians,  and  though  the  Manlike  Woman 
received  a  wound  in  the  breast,  she  accomplished  her  object, 
and  returned  to  the  Columbia  with  answers  to  the  letters. 
When  last  seen  by  the  traders,  she  had  collected  volunteers 
for  another  war  excursion,  in  which  she  received  a  mortal 
wound.  The  faith  of  the  Indians  was  shaken  by  her  death, 
and  soon  afterwards  the  whole  of  the  story  she  had  invented 
fell  into  discredit. 

In  the  Athabasca  department,  which  includes  Slave  Lake 
and  Peace  River,  as  well  as  in  the  more  southern  districts,  the 
autumn  of  182G,  and  the  following  winter,  were  unusually 
mild.  Near  the  Saskatchavvan  River,  there  was  so  little  snow 
before  the  middle  of  January,  that  the  sledges  could  not  be 
used  ;  but  at  Bear  Lake,  and  throughout  the  Mackenzie,  the 
weather  was  severe  during  the  same  periods,  and  the  snow 
came  early  ;  hence  it  would  appear,  that  even  in  this  climate 
the  meteorological  register  kept  at  any  one  place,  aflbrds  no 
index  from  whence  we  can  judge  of  the  season  at  another.  In 
my  journey  from  Slave  Lake  to  the  Athabasca  we  had  a  snow* 
storm  for  three  days,  which  we  found  did  not  extend  beyond 
sixty  miles  ;  and  on  our  arrival  at  Fort  Chipewyan,  we  learned 
there  had  not  been  a  single  shower  during  these  days.  The 
only  coinciding  circumstance,  at  the  different  stations  this  year, 
was  the  prevalence  of  north-east  winds. 

We  welcomed  the  appearance  of  two  of  the 
Sunday,  15th.  ig^ge-sized  swans  on  the  15th  April,  as  the  harbin- 
gers of  spring ;  the  geese  followed  on  the  20th  ;  the  robins  came 
on  the  7th  May ;  the  house  martins  appeared  on  the  12th,  and 
in  the  cour?e  of  a  week  were  busily  employed  repairing  their 
nests ;  and  the  barn  or  forked-tail  swallows  arrived  on  the  20th; 
and  on  the  same  day,  the  small-sized  swans  were  seen,  which 


the 


uic  iraiiers 


, .1--,  ii.„ 


lAtOSl  Oi 


r  * 


the 


hirds. 


11  *|. 


[1827. 

ling,  nnd 
its  to  the 
received 
ti  her  in- 
vent the 
1  through 
life,  our 
fronn  (he 
iledonia, 
ne,  been 
fcMted  by 
I  another 
were  at- 
Woman 
!r  object, 
i  letters, 
alunteers 
a  mortal 
er  death, 
invented 

ive  Lake 
ricts,  the 
inusually 
tic  snow 
Id  not  be 
nzie,  the 
he  snow 
s  climate 
ilbrds  no 
)ther.  In 
1  a  snow* 
i  beyond 
e learned 
fs.  The 
his  year, 

o  of  the 
e  liarbin- 
»inscame 
[2th,  and 
ring  their 
the  20th ; 
n,  which 


May.] 


OV  THK  POLAR  SEA. 


963 


per  ot  wLr  Few"  n    ""^'"^'  ^^^-*«*'-  «*  ^^is  , 
bursting  of  sol  c^tkinrr'%r  ""^'^'•'  «"^  ^^e  ^•'J^'^OU,. 
arrival  of  a  boat  from  tL  P  """T'  ''"*  ""'^  ^^^'^^^  h  an 

journey  from  the  Jake  The  h-  "^'  '*  "°* ""'"'  *^^"  «  ^«^'« 
vvyan  on  the  15th  Mw  nnf  f  ^  \^'  '*'^"  ^^  ^"^'^  Chine- 
seids  on  the  22d,  whidf'J.^^^^^  °?  *^  l'^*'^"^  the  gar/en 
the  close  of  the  fol lowir  ^  ^'u^^  *^  ^^  ""^"^^  for  use  by 
whether  the  bar?ey  "oWd f ifff'T^f '''  ^'  ^"  experiment, 
the  ground  through  thfvv'^^^^^^ 

preceding  autumn  bu  onTv  1  r  '"""^^h^^  >een  sown  in  the 
the  close  of  thTs  month  -^.^  ^  ""^  *'^"  P^""^^  ^PPe^'-ed  at 
vourably.  "'°"*^'  ^"^  ^^e  crop  did  not  promise  fa- 

fursToVsire  tte^hets?  o7th'^  P''  ''  ^^^  ^^^  ^'^ 
boats  was  despatched  oYo^k  rtt^rvZ^^ 
desirous  of  seeing  Dr  RicharH««n  !    •^'  ,  ^"g"st"s,  who  was 
from  the  country!  and  two  ofht "    ^" r  ^u^'f  ^''  d<^parture 

I  learned  from  him  that  d..rL  ^  u  ^  ^^.^^^"  months. 
Mr.  Drummond  the  Assistan?VoL- f'T'f  I"  *^"  "^''th, 
tigable  in  collecting  spec  mens  of  Nat^^^^^^^^^  H  'f  ^l' "  •  '"^^^^" 
8ent  for  that  purpose  toThe  Rock v^n^'""'^^^ 
the  Athabasca  River .  in  ho  rnl^  fountains  at  the  head  of 
uo^a  xiivcr ,  in  T.nc  course  of  which  sprviro  k«  u  j 
been  exposed  to  very  great  orivafinnc  V?'  ,  .^^'^^'^e,  he  had 
and  industrv,  science  is  hidebted  fir  h  v  ^'s  perseverance 
new  and  m^ny  rare^l^tX  td^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

I  remained  at  Cumberland  House  about  six 
'-  =«te  0,  ,„e  Indian,  in  (hat  neighbourho'od"rendering  exi 


354 


SECOND  JOURNEV  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1825. 


"  cursions  over  the  plains  very  unsafe,  I  determined  on  pro- 
"  ceeding  with  the  brigade  as  far  as  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
"  We  left  Carlton  House  on  the  1st  of  September,  and  reached 
«'  Edmonton,  which  is  about  four  hundred  miles  distant  on  the 
"  20th  of  the  same  month.  Sandy  plains  extend  without  ma- 
"  terial  alteration  the  whole  way,  and  there  is,  consequently, 
"  little  variety  in  the  vegetation;  indeed,  I  did  not  find  a  single 
»♦  plant  that  1  had  not  seen  within  ten  miles  of  Carlton  House, 
"  although  I  had  an  opportunity  of  -\amining  the  country 
"  carefully,  having  performed  the  greater  part  of  the  journey 
»'  on  foot.  After  a  halt  of  two  days  at  Edmonton,  we  conti- 
"  nued  our  route  one  hundred  miles  farther  to  Fort  Assinaboyn 
"on  the  Red  Deer  River,  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
"Athapescow.  This  part  of  the  journey  was  performed 
"  with  horses  through  a  swampy  and  thickly  wooded  country, 
"  and  the  path  was  so  bad,  that  it  was  necessary  to  reduce  the 
"  luggage  as  much  as  possible.  I  therefore  took  with  me  only 
"  one  bale  of  paper  for  drying  plants,  a  few  shirts,  and  a  blan- 
«  ket;  Mr.  M'Millan,  one  of  the  Company's  chief  traders,  who 
"  had  charge  of  the  brigade,  kindly  undertaking  to  forward  the 
''•  rest  of  my  baggage  in  the  ensuing  spring.  We  left  Fort 
"  Assinaboyn  to  proceed  up  the  Red  Deer  River  to  the  Moun- 
"  tains,  on  the  2d  of  October ;  but  the  Canoe  ap- 
October,  2d.  ^,  pointed  for  this  service  being  very  much  lum- 
"  bersd,  it  was  necessary  that  some  of  the  party  should  travel 
"  by  land,  and  of  that  number,  I  volunteered  to  be  one.  A 
"  heavy  fall  of  snow,  on  the  third  day  after  setting  out,  ren- 
"  dered  the  march  very  fatiguing,  and  the  country  being  thickly 
"  wooded  and  very  swp.mpy,  our  horses  were  rer.dered  useless 
"  before  we  had  travelled  half  the  distance. 

"We  reached  the  mountains  on  the  14th.  and  I  continued 
"  to  accompany  the  brigade,  for  fifty  miles  of  the  Portage-road, 
"  to  the  Columbia,  when  we  met  a  hunter  whom  Mr.  M'Millan 
"  hired  to  supply  me  with  food  during  the  v'inter.  The  same 
"  gentleman  having  furnished  me  with  horses  and  a  man  to 
"  take  care  of  them,  1  set  out  with  the  hunter  and  his  family 
"  towards  the  Smoking  River,  one  of  the  eastern  branches  of 
"  the  Peace  River,  on  vvhich  we  intended  to  winter.  My  guide, 
"  however,  loitered  so  much  on  the  way,  that  the  snow  became 
♦'  too  deep  to  admit  of  our  proceeding  to  our  destination,  and 
"  we  were  under  the  necessity  of  leaving  the  Mountains  alto- 
«  gether,  and  taking  up  our  winter-quarters  about  the  end  of 
"  December,  on  the  Baptiste,  a  stream  which  falls 
December.  „  .^^^^  ^^^  j^^^j  j)^^^  j^j^gj      During  the  journey,  1 

"  collected  a  few  specimens  of  the  birds  that  pass  ihc  winter 


[1825. 

d  on  pro- 
[ountains. 
d  reached 
nt  on  the 
thout  ma- 
lequently, 
d  a  single 
)n  House, 
;  country 
e  journey 
we  conti- 
ssinaboyn 
IS  of  the 
)erformed 
1  country, 
educe  the 
1  me  only 
id  a  Wan- 
ders, who 
rward  the 

left  Fort 
he  Moun- 
Uanoe  ap- 
[luch  lum- 
uld  travel 
J  one.     A 

out,  ren- 
ng  thickly 
ed  useless 

continued 
tage-road, 

M'Millan 
The  same 

a  man  to 
his  family 
ranches  of 
My  guide, 
w  became 
ation,  and 
tuins  alto- 
he  end  of 
hich  falls 
journey,  1 
he  winter 


August.] 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


255 


"mas  dav  I  h»d  (h.!,^  /'"''' "'°'*^'' »'"' o"  Christ- 

"  ther  being  a  hut  built  nf  .h„T  f  "«='!?"'«''<:y  of  the  wea- 
"  reaching oVrwinteritoLund  ''"'''•'  V'^'"'  ^oon  after 
"and  the  l,unte  „dTiffami?;T„fT•''"''"'"fy''^''"=«• 
"time  hang  er.lfeavy  as  lld^noV^f "  "."•'  '/""""^  'hj 
"  be  done  in  the  wat  of  ro  i„.-  "°  '"'"'"■  ""d  nothing  could 

ih::Ta~Sii?E---?? 

"L'ctdTn^/pi^^Ht?'""^^^^^^^ 

"  terofti';^o„''n°^,t/htii;grd™ '"" '"°'''  -"■»*■»'«• 

May,  ™hen  the  bngade  from  the  Columbia  arrived      "V.  S""- 
On  that  day  the  Mncmone  cuneifoUa,  and  Lvdovkiana  »nd 
"SnflSvTntf ''1'  'W  .""'•'""  i"  favouS  itua 

::  ^at/jiS- tifcttre":™^ira'."rhar 
"mSo  :Litd=f„grg"ertot  T7.r  ™V"'° '^' 

man  who  had  charge  of  the  horses  used  on  thTco lumbia 
Portage  and  botan.ze  in  that  neighbourhood.  ^ 

"On  the  10th  of  August,  I  set  out  with  another 
"  0 ll'slT  """r"  '  '■=','',P^«™iled  to  cond^t  me     *"Su... 
to  the  bmokmg  River,  although,  bei^a  AU, :„..j  : 

"t>y  of  ammunifoD,  we  were  badly  provide^-'we'trav^crd 


256 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1826. 


"  for  several  days  without  meeting  with  any  animals,  and  1 
"  shared  the  little  dried  provision  which  1  had  with  the  hunter's 
"family.  On  the  15th  we  killed  a  Mountain  sheep,  which 
»  was  quickly  devoured,  there  not  being  the  smallest  appre- 
"  hension  at  the  time  that  famine  would  overtake  us— day  after 
"  day,  however,  passed  away  without  a  single  head  of  game  of 
"  any  description  being  seen,  and  the  children  began  to  com- 
"  plain  loudly ;  but  the  hunter's  wife,  a  young  half-breed  woman, 
"  bore  the  abstinence  with  indifference,  although  she  had  two 
"  infant  twins  at  the  breast.  On  the  21st,  we  found  two  young 
"  porcupines,  which  were  shared  amongst  the  party,  and  two 
"  or  three  days  afterwards,  a  few  fine  trout  were  caught.  We 
"arrived  in  the  Smoking  River  on  the  5th  of  September, 
"  where  the  hunter  killed  two  sheep,  and  a  period  was  put  to 
"  our  abstinence,  for  before  the  sheep  were  eaten,  he  shot 
"  several  bufialoes. 

"  We  proceeded  along  the  Mountains  until  the  g  tember 
"  24th  of  September,  and  had  reached  the  head 
"waters  of  the  Peace  River,  when  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  stop- 
"  ped  my  collecting  plants  for  that  season.  I  was,  however, 
**very  desirous  of  crossing  the  Mountains  to  obtain  some 
«« knowledge  of  the  vegetation  on  the  Columbia  River,  and, 
*'  accordingly,  I  commenced  drying  provisions  to  enable  me 
♦*  to  accompany  the  Columbia  brigade,  when  it  arrived  from 
**  Hudson's  Bay.  I  reached  the  Portage  on  the  9th  of  Octo- 
«'  ber,  and  on  the  10th  the  brigade  arrived,  and  I  re-  ^^^^^^^ 
"ceived  letters  from  Captain  Franklin,  mstructmg 
*'.me  to  descend  in  the  spring  of  1827,  time  enough  to  rejoin 
"  the  Expedition  on  its  way  to  York  Factory.  It  was,  there- 
"  fore,  necessary  that  I  should  speedily  commence  my  return, 
"  and  having  gone  with  the  brigade  merely  to  the  west-end  of 
"the  Portage,  I  came  back  again  on  the  1st  of  November. 
"  The  snow  covered  the  ground  too  deeply  to  permit  me  to 
"  add  much  to  my  collections  in  this  hasty  trip  over  the  Moun- 
"  tains,  but  it  was  impossible  to  avoid  remarking  the  great 
»'  superiority  of  climate  on  the  western  side  of  that  lofty  range. 
"  From  the  instant  the  descent  towards  the  Pacific  commences, 
"  there  is  a  visible  improvement  in  the  growth  of  timber,  and 
"  the  variety  of  forest  trees  greatly  increases.  The  few  mosses 
"  that  I  gleaned  in  the  excursion  were  so  fine,  that  1  could  not 
"  but  deeply  regret  that  1  was  unable  to  pass  a  season  or  two 
"  in  that  interesting  region. 

"  Having  packed  up  all  my  specimens,  I  embarked  on  the 
"  Red  Deer  River,  with  Mr.  M'Donald,  one  of  the  Company's 
•'  officers,  who  was  returning  from  a  long  residence  on  the 


[1826. 

lis,  and  I 
2  hunter's 
jp,  which 
st  appre- 
-day  after 
if  game  of 
I  to  com- 
d  woman, 
;  had  two 
wo  young 
,  and  two 
ght.  We 
eptember, 
vas  put  to 
I,  he  shot 


September. 

now  stop- 
,  however, 
tain  some 
iver,  and, 
suable  me 
ived  from 
1  of  Octo- 


3F   THE   POLAR  SEA. 


257 


October. 


1  to  rejoin 
^as,  there- 
Tiy  return, 
est-end  of 
November, 
rmit  me  to 
the  Moun- 

the  great 
ofty  range. 
>mmences, 
mber,  and 
ew  mosses 

could  not 
son  or  Svo 

ed  on  the 
!^ompany's 
ce  on  the 


November.] 

"s^rtmttirf  ^'^  ^"'""'?'  ^"^  ^°"t'""^^  t"  de^^^nd  the 
4i'Donald  nTh7?''  ''^  ^?'\  ^y  '^'^  ^'•°^*-  ^  then  left  Mr. 
^oUo  rtt  A  r^;''^"  "/  ^'r  "^^SS^g^'  ^"d,  proceeding  on 
"  I  reached  i  h  «T'^'  ^^^  P"''P°^«  of  procuring  horses, 
»  LTes  cou  d  hVnK.  ^^"'i^'^'- .  '^  ^"^  ^^^^'•^'  days  before  the 
"  veil  Sfrm  thp  P  ^T'^'J"^.*.^?.^  ^^•■^  several  more  in  tra- 
"  that  gl  tie™, ^!.n^^  M'Donald,  during  which  time 

''TheSr'' ^"^  "  ^'^'  ^  ^"'■^  '^'y  short'of  provisions. 
"  the  For  in  sXv  'aT"'^  opportunely,  and  they  reached 
"  Edmonton  wh^  ^'  r  "^^^"^  '^'^'"S  a  few  days,  I  set  out  for 

"  RichardJo      p/^P'?'  '"'""^'^^ '""  ''»  '^"er  from  Dr.     ^     ^ 
"Houset^A'   n^"'?^'  me  to  join  him  at  Carlton     ^"'*- 

"fno  vVhoes^o  '  ?he   llToff'  f  ^^  '^^  *^.^'  P^^^^  ^" 
"specimens  nVoMh      '/^n  of  March,  takmg  with  me  single 

^Sy  Sen^in  U  f '""*'  ^'^*'?'"^^  ^"  ^^e  Mountains,  lest 
"cZe  bv  rTn  It  ''^PP^"  *^i'^^  duplicates  which  were  to 

»  bv^L/n.?  '"  •''^  'P"".g'  ^^^°  -"^^  ^''th  a  sledge  drawn 
"Xterr'T^.T''^"^  ^^  ^"^'^^  inhabitants  of  the 
"them  anTdiH^.  '*•'".:  Tf  T'^^  ^  ^^'"g^  ^i'"^"''  to  avoid 
"AprTl'  Wp  '?/  /'''^^''■^^"'^  ^^""^^  before  the  5th  of 
"  march  th.  h"  /^  T.'^'  ^'°'"  snow-blindness  on  the  ,  , 
"^arch,  the  dogs  failed  from  want  of  food,  we  had  to     ^P"'- 

"e'ei;  dts'Th?  '"  'f?^ '"'^'  and  had' nothing  to  eat  for 
"  n  the  kiS"  vv  1  '"P""S'  '^^'^'  ^^^^^^'•'  «o«n  forgotten 
"Mr  Prtdlsl.'T  *  ^^^f^??  from  Dr.  Richardson,  and 
"^ehosntThi;      f   rP'"^'  ^^'^^  Trader  at  Carlton  and 

"  lemanl^  111 T^^^^^^^^  ^"?  ^^"^  ^^^'^  ^^  ^^e  latter  gen- 

t  eman  s  able  enabled  me  speedily  to  recruit  my  lost  strenlth 

,;^{^«»^^i'«"s  on  the  Mountains  amounted  to  about  fif- 
teen hundred  species  of  plants,  one  hundred  and  fifty  bird 
Tltt-'^'^'ir^  "  considerable  number  of  insects.'       ' 

r^  sitiirwtn^^^-- ^^-  ^'^^-'-  ^-^  '^^^ '-  ^""^• 

nrn'!:!''^  ^.^^aining  pa.<;  of  a  day  at  Cumberland  House  we 
oTe  of  fh.  r"  «"••  journey.  Dr.  Richardson  following  .n  ' 
on  the  24th  n7r"^'  ^'f'r.  ^  J?''^^'^^'*  ^°^^«)^  '^^use  ''''' 
afVr  M  sl;  \u"'*  ^■'.'  ^'^hardson  on  the  third  day 
wl  .  ;  ^""P^«"'  the  resident  Governor  of  the  Compan/ 
va.  absent  on  urgent  business  at  York  Factory;  but,  So"  s 

" *'•  ^oug.a..r.,  who  hao  been  sent  to  the  Columbia  River 


258 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


[1827. 


by  the  Horticultural  Society,  as  a  Collector  of  Natural  His- 
tory, and  who  had  recently  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for 
the  purpose  of  proceeding  to  England  from  Hudson's  Bay. 
This  gentleman  being  desirous  of  occupying  himself  previous 
to  the  arrival  of  the  ship,  in  making  an  addition  to  his  collec- 
tion from  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Red  River  Colony,  1  felt 
happy  in  being  able  to  give  him  a  conveyance,  in  the  canoe 
with  Dr.  Richardson  and  myself,  through  Lake  Winipeg,  to 
Fort  Alexander,  where  he  met  another  canoe  that  was  going 
to  the  colony. 

On  quitting  Norway  House  we  took  leave  of  our  worthy 
companion,  Augustus,  who  was  to  wait  there  until  Captain 
Back  should  arrive.  The  tears  which  he  shed  at  our  parting, 
so  unusual  in  those  uncultivated  tribes,  showed  the  strength  of 
his  feelings,  and  I  have  no  doubt,  they  proceeded  fro.n  a  sin- 
cere affection ;  an  affection  which,  I  can  venture  to  say,  was 
mutually  felt  by  every  individual.  With  great  regret  he  learned 
that  there  was  no  immediate  prospect  of  our  again  meeting, 
and  he  expressed  a  very  strong  desire  to  be  informed,  if  an- 
other Expedition  should  be  sent  to  any  of  the  northern  parts 
of  America,  whether  by  sea  or  land;  and  repeatedly  assured 
me,  that  he  and  Ooligbuck  would  be  ready  at  any  time  to  quit 
their  families  and  their  country,  to  accompany  any  of  their 
present  officers,  wherever  the  Expedition  might  be  ordered.* 

We  reached  Fcit  Alexander  on  the  8th  of  July,  and  Mr. 
Douglass  having  left  us,  1  was  enabled  to  offer  a  passage,  as 
far  as  Montreal,  to  Monsieur  Picard,  one  of  the  clergymen  at- 
tached to  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission  at  the  Red  River  Co- 
lony. We  arrived  at  Lachine,  near  Montreal,  on  the  18th  of 
August,  and  were  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  James  Keith, 
Chief  Factor,  and  Agent  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  with 
whom  we  remained  five  days,  to  settle  the  accounts 
August.  ^^  ji^g  Expedition.  After  I  had  paid  my  respects  to  his 
Excellency,  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie,  Governor  in  Chief  of  Ca- 
nada, we  proceeded  to  New  York  by  the  way  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  In  our  passage  through  the  United  States,  we  received 
the  same  kind  attentions  we  had  before  experienced  ;  our  per- 
sonal baggage,  and  the  collections  of  Natural  History,  were 
forwarded  by  the  officers  of  the  customs  without  examination, 
and  every  assistance  we  required  was  promptly  rendered. 

Having  embarked,  in  the  packet  ship,  on  the  1st 
September.  ^^  September,  we  reached  Liverpool  on  the  26th, 

*  I  have  pleasure  in  mentioninff  that,  by  permission  of  Covernmcnf,  tho 
pay  whinli  was  duo  to  Augustus  and  OoliL'huck,  lias  been  delivered  to  the 
Directors  of  the  HudsonV  Bay  Company,  who  liavo  inidcrtakcn  to  distribute 
it  to  them  annually,  in  the  wuy  suited  to  their  wuntH. 


[1827. 

ral  His- 
ains,  for 
I's  Bay. 
previous 
3  collec- 
ly,  1  felt 
e  canoe 
lipeg,  to 
as  going 

r  worthy 
Captain 
parting, 
rength  of 
.n  a  sin- 
say,  was 
3  learned 
meeting, 
id,  if  an- 
;rn  parts 
■f  assured 
le  to  quit 
of  their 
rdered.* 
and  Mr. 
IS  sage,  as 
;ymen  at- 
liver  Co- 
e  18th  of 
es  Keith, 
any,  with 
accounts 
icts  to  his 
ef  of  Ga- 
te Cham- 
received 
;  our  per- 
ory,  were 
mination, 
lered. 
3n  the  1st 
the  26th, 

rnmcnt,  tlin 
'ercd  to  the 
to  distributo 


OF  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


359 


September.] 

after  an  absence  of  two  years,  seven  months  and  a  half.  Can- 

October  f  Lt  Ef;*^'  "[T^^^  Portsmouth  on  the  10th  of 
ucioDer.  Ithen  received  the  distressing  intelligence  of  the 
Rptl  ft'"'',  excel  ent  men,  on  their  homeward  Sage  from 
Bear  Lake  to  York  Factory;  Archibald  Stewart  who  dS 
from  consump  .on ;  and  Gustavus  Aird,  who  was  drowned  in 

Save  S'vPr  TTnfi  T  ^"''^'"^  ^°^"  *^^  ^^"can  Fall,  in 
the  hone  that  o^r  F.  ".v '°""^  'f^""}^^  ™^' '  ^"^^  ^^^erished 
mv  havinl  fn         ^/P^^'t'l^n  would  have  terminated  without 

Ted  ent Tnl  m.  ^f  ^  -^"'^  ^^  T'  ^'^"^  ^^^''  ""'^o™'  steady, 

portunkL  nf  nhT  •  °"'  ^T^"'^  ^^'"^  '  h«^  '•epeated  op- 
portunities  of  observmg  and  aamiring,  while  thev  were  mv 

companions  m  the  Lion,  during  the  voyage  along  the^oast  ^ 

I  must  be  allowed  to  add,  th°at  in  thii  fong  homeward    our- 

ney,  in  which  there  were  no  fresh  discoveries  toTe  made*'  nor 

any  of  those  excitements  that  relieve  the  monotonTof  con 

stant  labour,  and  m  wh  ch  they  had  to  contend  with  a  sue- 

cession  of  dangerous  rapids,  there  was  the  same  masterly  skill 

fplnf  rt'^f  "'""^Ifu'  ^^'"""^  ^y  ^^P*^i"  Back  and  Lieu- 
tenant  Kendall ;  and  the  same  patient  and  ready  obedience  by 
the  men*  which  had  marked  their  whole  conduct,  while  more 
immediately  under  my  own  observation. 

On  my  arrival  in  London,  on  the  29th  of  September  ac 
compelled  by  Dr.  Richardson,  1  had  the  honour  ofkying  the 
charts  and  drawings  before  his  Royal  Highness  the  Lord  H  gh 
Admiral,  and  Mr.  Secretary  Huskisson ;  tnd,  from  the  latter  I 
received  directions  to  publish  an  account  of  our  proceedings 


In  concluding  this  Narrative,  I  feel  it  incumbent  on  me  to 
offer  a  few  renriarks  on  the  subject  of  a  J^orth-JVest  Passage, 
which,  though  It  has  not  been  the  immediate  object  of  the  fn- 
terprises  m  which  I  have  been  engaged,  is  yet  so  intimately 
connected  with  them,  as  to  have  naturally  excited  in  my  m  nd 
a  strong  and  permanent  interest.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  (o 
remark,  that  the  opinion  I  ventured  to  express  in  my  former 
work  as  to  the  practicahility  of  the  passagct,  has  been  con' 
siderabiy  strengthened  by  the  information  obtained  durii.g  the 

,;/„b:! ''^JPy  J"'  =^''^,)'''^^  J.'':'^"  7'en  who  had  boon  in  His  Majesty'^  .cr- 
\.r..  .)8t..rc  the  pix-.ont  Lxpodilion,  htive  hecn  rewarded  l)y  promotion 
t  See  page  ;}(!8, 


260 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  SHORES 


present  Expedition.  The  Northern  Coast  of  America  has  ncv 
been  actually  surveyed  from  the  meridian  of  109°  to  14^ 
west;  and  again  by  the  exertions  of  Captain  Beechey,  m  His 
Majesty's  ship  the  Blossom,  from  Icy  Cape  eastward  to  about 
156°  west,  leaving  not  more  than  fifty  leagues  of  unsurveyed 
coast,  between  Point  Turnagain  and  Icy  Cape.    Further,  the 
delineation  of  the  west  side  of  Melville  Peninsula,  m  the  chart 
of  Captain  Parry's  Second  Voyage,  conjoined  with  information 
which  we  obtained  from  the  Northern  Indians,  fairly  warrants 
the  conclusion,  that  the  coast  preserves  an  easterly  direction 
from  Point  Turnagain  towards  Repulse  Bay ;  and  that,  in  all 
probability,  there  are  no  insurmountable  obstacles  between 
this  part  of  the  Polar  Sea  and  the  extensive  openings  into  the 
Atlantic,  through  Prince  Regent  Inlet  and  the  Strait  of  the 

Fury  and  Hecla.  i  i.    tu 

Whenever  it  may  be  considered  desirable  to  complete  the 
dehneation  of  the  coast  of  the  American  Continent,  I  conceive 
that  another  attempt  should  be  made  to  connect  Point  Turn- 
again  with  the  important  discoveries  of  Captain  Parry,  by  re- 
newing the  Expedition  which  was  undertaken  by  Captain 
Lyon,  and  which,  but  lor  the  boisterous  weather  that  disabled 
the  Griper,  must  have  long  since  repaid  his  well  known  zeal 
and  enterprize  with  discoveries  of  very  great  interest. 

In  considering  the  best  -neans  of  effecting  the  North- West 
Passage  in  a  ship,  it  has  hitherto  been  impossible  not  to  assent 
to  the  opinion  so  judiciously  formed,  and  so  convincingly 
stated,  by  Captain  Parry,  that  the  attempt  should  be  made 
from  the  Atlantic  rather  than  by  Behring's  Straits,  because 
the  enterprise  is  then  commenced  after  a  voyage  of  short  du- 
ration, subject  to  comparatively  few  vicissitudes  of  climate, 
and  with  the  equipments  thoroughly  effective.    But  important 
as  these  advantages  are,  they  may,  perhaps,  be  more  than  ba- 
lanced by  some  circumstances  which  have  been  brought  to 
light  by  our  Expedition.   The  prevalence  of  north-west  winds 
during  the  season  that  the  ice  is  in  the  most  favourable  state 
for  navigation,  would  greatly  facilitate  the  voyage  of  a  ship  to 
the  eastward,  whilst  it  would  be  equally  adverse  to  her  pro- 
gress in  the  opposite  direction.  It  is  also  well  known,  that  the 
coast  westward  of  the  Mackenzie  is  almost  unapproachable  by 
ships,  and  it  would,  therefore,  be  very  desirable  to  get  over  that 
part  of  the  voyage  in  the  (irst  season.     Though  we  did  not 
observe  any  such  easterly  current  as  was  found  by  Captain 
Parry  in  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  as  well  as  by  Captain 
Kotzebue,  on  his  voyage  through  Behring's  Straits ;  yet  this 
lY^ay  have  arissen  from,  our  having  been  confined  to  the  navign 
lion  of  the  flats  close  to  the  shore  ;  but  if  such  a  current  dot- 


OP  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


361 


las  no'v 
»   149i° 
,  in  His 
o  about 
urveyed 
her,  the 
le  chart 
rmation 
warrants 
lirection 
3it,  in  all 
between 
into  the 
it  of  the 

slete  the 
conceive 
nt  Turn- 
y,  by  re- 
Captain 
disabled 
)wn  zeal 

rth-West 
to  assent 
nncingly 
be  made 
,  because 
short  du- 

climate, 
mportant 

than  ba- 
rought  to 
est  winds 
able  state 
a  ship  to 
►  her  pro- 
I,  that  the 
chable  by 

over  that 
'e  did  not 
y  Captain 
f  Captain 

;  yet  this 
le  navig" 
rrent  doe- 


te  al Iv  St  .    h'  ^''''  ^'''  * ''  ^^'^^"^  '^^'  't  ^^«"1<J  ^^■ 
pirifir   fni   1         'P  S°""r'^"''"g  ^^^  undertaking  from  the 

douit  be  ?oan/'r"^'  '"i  '^!  ^''^  ^^*^^'  which  ^vould,  no 
doubt  be  lound  at  a  moderate  distance  from  the  shore. 

varv  mnihirHf?"^  ?"'"*'*^  ^^  ^^^  '^^  '"  the  Polar  Seas 

Jtae  that  L  fonn^'^r/  ^''^\V  ^"*'  ^^^"^^  ''  ^^  '»  ^he  same 
Irv  r?nl  '"^^f^""?  '*'  I  would  not  recommend  a  ship's  leaving 

2^,^^■  '"''''^''  ^^'"  *^"  "^'^^^e  o^  August,  for  after  that  pZ 
nod  the  ice  was  not  only  broken  up  within  he  sphere  of  our 

^s^un^tlter?;r"f '  ^.°"'"l^^^"^  ^^^  northward  TnlaH 
ITJ^^f^rr  ^  "^.^"u^''  ^"^  "°t  """^h  encumbered  by  ice. 
hope    o  ^f  J/    '^'  '*  *^'-^'"^  ^P^^'fi^^'  I  «»^°"'d  conadintly 

cSe  Bathnn^f      'T'^  '""^''■'"S  P^^^^  *«  ^he  eastward  of 
Cape  Bathurst,  m  the  direct  route  to  the  Dolphin  and  Union 
Straits,  through  which  I  should  proceed.*     If  d  her  or  both 
t'o  the'  ?ol7'"'  '^^^  '""^T"''  «^^  adopted  it  ;'oud  add 

one  or  ZftZ'f  ^f  ''^''^-  "^  '^""'^  ^^°  ""^^^^^^e  them,  if 
one  or  two  depots  of  provisions  were  established  in  places  of 
ready  access,  through  the  medium  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 

Arctic  discovery  has  been  fostered  principally  by  Great 
SrS'K""!  ''  r  "  ^"^J^^*  "^  J"^*  pride  that  it  has  blen  pro- 
icrh^in^^    f  r  ^'"""^  "''^*^^^'  ^^  disinterested  as  they  are  en- 
illf  h^ff  i'"''^  ^'""^  ^"/  P'^^'P^^t  «^  immediate  benefit  to  her- 
tnLl  i^.u'^^^"*^  "^'^^  *^  t*^^  acquirement  of  useful 

knowledge,  and  the  extension  of  the  bounds  of  science.  Each 
succeeding  attempt  has  added  a  step  towards  the  completion 
of  northern  geography  ;  and  the  contributions  to  natural  history 
and  science  have  excited  a  general  interest  throughout  the 
civihzed  world  It  is,  moreover,  pleasing  to  reflect  that  the 
loss  of  hfe  which  has  occurred  in  the  prosecution  of  these  dis- 
covenes  does  not  exceed  the  average  number  of  deaths  in  the 
same  population  at  home  under  circumstances  the  most  fa- 

wiH  nif '  1  .  '*  •'  ^"^^''''^  *^  h^  h«P^^  that  Great  Britain 
will  not  relax  her  efTorts  until  the  question  of  a  north-west 
passage  has  been  satisfactorily  set  at  rest,  or  at  least  until  those 
porhons  of  the  northern  shores  of  America,  which  are  yet  un- 
known be  laid  down  in  our  maps ;  and  which  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  small  space  on  the  Asiatic  continent  eastward  of 
bhelatskoi  Noss,  are  the  only  intervals  wanting  to  complete 
the  outline  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  America.  ^ 

*  See  Dr.  Richardson's  opinion  in  favour  of  this  route,  p.  218. 
END  OF  THE  NARRATIVE. 


P*^4 


'^' 


262 


SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


Summary  of  the  Distances  travelled  by  the  Expedition,  from 
its  Landing  in  America,  until  its  Embarkation. 


Distance  travelled  in  1825,  as  given  in  page  60  "      ,  '       »' 

Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr,  Kendall's  excursion  on  the  ice  to  the  east- 
ern parts  of  Bear  Lake,  in  the  Spring  of  1826        -        "    „.  7 
Distance  travelled  by  the  Western  Party  in  1826  (given  in  p.  235.) 
Distance  travelled  by  the  Eastern  Party  m  1826,  after  its  separation 
;■    from  the  Western  Party      ------- 

Return  from  Fort  Franklin  to  New  York  "„",„" 

Captain  Back  and  Lieutenant  Kendall's  journey  to  York  Factory, 
after  quitting  Captain  Franklin's  route        -        .        -        - 

Distance  travelled  by  the  Expedition  in  going  and  returning,  in- 
cluding the  excursions  of  detached  parties  -       -        - 

Number  of  miles  surveyed  and  laid  down  in  the  maps,  but  not 
all  included  under  the  head  of  discoveries,  because  the  routes 
have  been  traversed  by  Traders 


Statute  Miles. 
5,803 


359 
2,048 

1,455 
4,000 

520 


14,185 


5,000 


% 


orif  from 


lute  Miles. 

- 

5,803 

„ 

359 

) 

2,048 

n 

- 

1,455 

- 

4,000 

r. 

520 

- 

14,185 

ot 

» 

5,000 


APPENDIX. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


BY 


JOHN  RICHARDSON,  M.D.,  P.R.S.,  &c. 

SURGEON  AND  NATURALIST  TO  THE  EXPEDITION. 

[Read  be/ore  the  Geological  Society.] 


A  VERY  limited  portion  of  my  time  could  be  allotted  to 
geological  inquiries     For  eight  months  in  the  year  ?he  ground 
in  the  northern  parts  of  America  is  covered  with  snow    and 
during  the  short  summer,  the  prosecution  of  the  main  obfecl 
ofthe  expedition  rendered  the  slightest  delay  in  oriouSTev 
unadvisable     The  few  hours  that  could  be  stolen  S^he 
necessary  halts,  for  rest  and  refreshment,  were  principX  oc 
copied  in  the  collection  of  obiects  for  the^llustraSTfboV^^^ 
and  zoology.     It  is  evident,  tW  an  account  of  the  rock  fS 
tions,  drawn  up  under  such  circumstances,  cannot  be  oth™r 
wise  than  very  imperfect;  but  I  have  been  led  to  pubHsh  It 
from  the  be  lef  that,  in  the  absence  of  more  prec^e  inrrmatioi 
even  the  slightest  notice  ofthe  rocks  of  the%xtreme  nTrthern 
parts  ofthe  Anierican  continent  would  be  useful  to  those  em 
ployed  m  developing  the  structure  of  the  crust  of  the  earth- 
the  more  especially,  as  it  is  not  probable  that  the  same  ?ract 
of  country  will  soon  be  trod  by  an  expert  geolo^sT     The 
specimens  of  rocks  I  obtained  have  been  deposited  in  he  Mu! 
seum  of  the  Geological  Society,  and  are  referred  to  in  the 
ensuing  pages  by  he  numbers  affixed  to  them.     The  notices 
are  arranged  nearly  in  the  order  of  the  route  ofthe  expedition 
commencing  with  Great  Bear  Lake,  where  our  wX  quar- 
ters were  situated.  wnuer  quar- 

GREAT  BEAR  LAKE. 

Great  Bear  Lake  is  an  extensive  sheet  of  water,  of  a  verv 
•rrcgular  shape,  being  formed  by  the  union  of  fiy.  /^s  o,  w{ 
m  a  common  centre.     The  greatest  diameter"  of  ihe  lake 
measuring  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  geographica  miles  runs 


264 


APPENDIX. 


from  the  bottom  of  Dease  Bay,  wliich  receives  the  principal 
feeding  stream,  to  the  bottom  of  Keith  Bay,  from  whence  the 
Bear  Lake  River  issues,  and  has  a  direction  from  N.E.  to 
S.W.  The  transverse  diameter  has  a  direction  from  N.W.  by 
W.  to  S.E.  by  E.,  through  Smith  and  M'Tavish  Bays,  and  is 
upwards  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  in  length.  M'Vicar 
Bay,  the  fifth  arm  of  the  lake,  is  narrower  than  the  others,  and 
being  a  little  curved  at  its  mouth,  appears  less  connected  with 
the  main  body  of  water.  The  li"ht  bluish-coloured  water  of 
Great  Bear  Lake  is  every  wl  -le  ic'iv^j'-uent,  and  is  particu- 
larly clear  near  some  prusiitive  tii jiutains,  which  exist  in 
M'Tavish  Bay.  A  piece  of  white  rag,  let  down  there,  did  not 
disappear  until  it  descended  fifteen  fathoms.  The  depth  of 
water,  in  the  centre  of  the  lake  was  not  ascertained;  but  it  is 
known  to  be  very  considerable.  Near  the  shore,  in  M'Tavish 
Bay,  forty-five  fathoms  of  line  did  not  reach  the  bofton  Owing 
to  the  barometers  supplied  to  the  expedition  having  been 
broken  in  an  early  period  of  its  progress,  the  height  of  the  sur- 
face of  Bear  Lake  above  the  Arctic  Sea  could  not  be  ascer- 
tained ;  but  it  is,  probably,  short  of  two  hundred  feel.*  If  this 
supposition  come';  near  the  truth,  the  bottom  of  M'Tavish  Bay 
is  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  towards  the  centre  of  the 
basin  of  the  lake  the  depression  is  probably  still  greater.  The 
great  lakes,  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior,  which  discharge 
their  waters  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  are  reported  to  sink  three 
hundred  feet  below  the  level  of  the  ocean ;  and  the  Lake  of 
the  Mountains,  or  Chipewyan  Lake  and  Great  Slave  Lake,t 
through  which  the  Mackenzie  flows,  have,  it  is  highly  probable, 
some  portions  of  their  beds  below  the  sea  level. 

In  the  autumn  of  182.5,  I  coasted  the  western  and  northern 
shores  of  the  Great  Bear  Lake;  and  in  the  spring  of  1 826, 
travelled  on  the  ice  along  its  eastern  and  southern  arms,  leav- 
ing no  part  of  its  shores  unexamined  on  these  two  surveys, 
except  the  north  side  of  M'Tavish  Bay.  1  did  not,  however, 
on  these  orrasions,  make  excursions  inland. 

PRIMITIVE  ROCKS.— GREAT  BEAR  LAKE. 


At  the  south-east  corner  of  M'Tavish  Bay,  primitive  rocks 
form  a  hilly  range  which,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two  from 

*  This  was  estimated  by  allowincr  one  foot  descent  per  mile  for  Bear  Lake 
River,  whose  length  is  sr  nty  miles;  and  three  inches  per  mile  for  the  de- 
scent of  Mackenzie  Riv<  ,  from  the  junction  of  the  former  river  to  the  seu, 
being  a  distance  of  five  hundred  miles. 

t  In  our  former  journey,  we  sounded  near  the  Rein-Deer  Islands  in  Slave 
Lake,  with  sixty^tive  fathoms  lino,  without  reaching  the  bottom. 


principal 

lence  the 

N.E.  to 

N.W.  by 
r's,  and  is 

M' Vicar 
■hers,  and 
clcd  with 

water  of 
3  particu- 

cxist  in 
c,  did  not 
depth  of 
;  but  it  is 
VI'Tavish 
Owing 
ing  bten 
>f  the  sur- 
be  ascer- 
*  Ifthis 
wish  Bay 
re  of  the 
er.  The 
discharge 
ink  three 
!  Lake  of 
e  Lake,t 
probable, 

northern 
;  of  1826, 
ms,  leav- 
surveys, 
however, 


KE. 

ive  rocks 
two  from 

Bear  Lake 
for  the  (ie- 
to  tho  sen, 

ds  in  Slave 


TOrOORArHiCAL   AND  OEOLOOICAL  NOTICES.  265 

"and  iLT'  'Tfir  r  ''r"*"?  'J  '''^^'  '^"»^'«^  or  one  thou- 

N  W  T,v  W  to  i'l'  ""f  r^""^?  ^"'•*^*^'-'  0"  «  direction  from 
be^u-in^at  L  L^^^^^^  ''  ^''^'""g^^  ^^  the  latter 

Leiir^l  /^g'terar/irm  o7Th"h"n^^  '^""'^^  *'«'"^ 

some  inst»nrp«  UM  k-  *.^^  *^'"'  "  obtuse-conical,  in 

some  instances  approachnig  (o  dome-shaped.     None  of  them 

eldo7  wide  rj'"  ^'7/'  ^"'  ^^^^  ^^"-  betweeLthem t" 
SranrTear  roa.il' if  •  //  ^  ^\«t.^"^«' ^^'"e  of  the  masses  of 
^r^I*  '/-Ik  i^ound-backed;  and  m  certain  points  of  view  the 
crest  o(  the  r.dge  seems  to  consist  of  mammillarv  neaks      On 

^oTdTf  rZS''  '''  •"''^'^"^'  ^'"^  --  fo:Kbe  com" 
posed  01  rounded  emnienres,  having  summits,  eenerallv  of  in 

m  rJp  Sictf  ^"f^'"^  ?'  '^'^'''^  nakerr^'^'sl:,! 
sTre  L  b?nL  i;Th  ^'■''IT^'  ""^  ™'"^  ^^t^^J^^'d  blocks  of 
stone  He  beneath  them.     Between  the  eminences  there  are 

ir'.tS;'>r'^"  h  «^-S^*^!-"'«"d  cov.red  ^Ul'S  ones 
or  grav  el  not  much  worn.     A  considerable  portion  of  the  era- 

wh  "hfrhill"  '^"'^''^  debris,perhap^,of  the  rocksTof 
and  no  a  fef  of  °"'"  '  ''  ^^^"tains  also  some  pieces  ofslJte, 
and  not  a  few  of  quartzose  sandstone,  neither  of  which  I  ob 

he^e  huT'th'  'r  '""'rrt'  °^  ^  ^^^"^  «^  *^«  -J'-  over 
these  hills,  the  only  rock  I  observed  was  granite,  verging  in  a 

mica.     Sometimes  the  felspar  is  brownish-red,  and  the  rock 

:urfac"e"?r"f  '"^^^'"  '''''  T''''  ^'^''^'  TheVeathered 
surlace  ol  the  stone  was  every  where  of  a  brick-red  colour    lu 

many  .po  s  the  rocks  split  into  ^urh  thin  slaty  looking  tables 
that  they  have  the  appearance  of  being  stratified.  The  slaty 
masses  are,  t-nerally,  vertical;  but  in  one  hill  they  were  ob^ 
served  dipping  80°  to  the  south-east.  The  direcdon  of  t^ie 
tabular  masses  is  mostly  across  the  oblong  summits  of  the  hills' 
rhe  appearances  of  stratification  were  not  observed  to  extend 
through  a  whole  hill  and  seemed,  in  fact,  to  be  confined  to 
the  moiv  decomposable  granites;  but  the  naked  rocks  are 
every  where  tm  ersed  by  smooth  fissures.  The  blocks,  which 
he  under  the  chffs,  have  s.  .nctime  a  tabular  form,  mt  more 
generally  come  nearer  to  n  cube  or  rhomboid,  and  present  one 
or  two  very  even  faces.     Few  veins  were  noticed  tie 

more  sheltered  va  lies,  some  clumps  of  white  or  black  spruce 
trees  -    cur;  but  the  hills  are  b:    ren.  ^ 

The  point  of  land  which  lies    olween  M'Tavish  and  M'Vi.  ar 
Bays  has  lou   shores ;  but  five  or  six  miles  inland,  an  even- 

31 


.  .#  ft'- 1 


3^  APl'KNUIX. 

backed  ridge  rises  gradually  to  the  height  of  three  or  Tour  hun- 
dred  feet,  and  abuts  obliquely  against  tlie  primitive  hills.  I  did 
not  visit  this  ridge,  and  the  snow  prevented  me  from  seeing 
any  flat  beds  of  rocks,  if  such  exist  on  the  shore.  On  one  point, 
however,  near  the  north  end  of  Dease  Bay,  many  large  angular 
blocks  of  whitish  dolomite  were  piled  up,  and  I  have  little 
doubt  of  the  rock  existing  in  situ  in  that  immediate  neighbour- 

M'Tavish  Bay  is  forty  miles  long,  and  twenty  wide,  and  its 
depth  of  water,  near  th*;  eastern  shore,  exceeds  forty-five  fa- 
thoms. Some  shoals  of  boulders  skirt  the  coast  near  Point 
Leith.  M'Vicar  Bay  is  about  seventy  miles  long,  and  from 
eight  to  twelve  wide;  and  at  the  "fishery,"  in  a  narrow  pari, 
not  far  from  its  bottom,  its  depth  of  water;  two  miles  from  the 
shore,  is  twelve  fathoms.  Dease  Bay  is  equal  to  M' lavish 
Bay  in  extent,  and  opens  to  the  S.W.  into  the  body  of  the  lake. 
The  high  lands  at  the  N.E.  end,  or  bottom  oi  this  bay,  have  an 
even  outline,  and  appear  to  attain  an  elevation  of  eight  or  nine 
hundred  feet,  at  the  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles  from  the 
shore.  Near  its  east  side  lie  th'>  lofty  islands  of  Narrakazzae, 
which  rise  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  lake.  Dease  River, 
the  principal  feeder  of  the  lake,  falls  into  the  bottom  of  Dease 
Bay.  It  is  two  hundred  yards  wide,  and  from  one  to  three 
fathoms  deep  near  its  mouth.  A  few  miles  up  this  river  a  for- 
mation of  soft  red  sandstone  occurs,  which  will  be  noticed 
hereafter. 


LIMESTONE.— GREAT  BEAR  LAKE. 

At  the  mouth  of  Dease  river  there  are  hills  five  or  six  hun- 
dred feet  high,  composed  principally,  or  entirely,  of 
228*     dolomite  in  horizontal  strata.     Some  of  the  beds  con- 
sist of  a  thick-slaty,  fine-grained  dclom'it'^,  containing 
dispersed  scales  of  mica,  which  is  most  abundant  on  the  sur- 
faces of  the  slates.     Most  of  the  beds,  however,  consist 
228     of  a  thin-slaty,  dull,  purplish  dolomite,  traversed  by  veins 
of  calc-spar.     The  structure  of  this  rock  is  compact,  ap- 
proaching to  fine  granular;  and  some  of  the  beds  have  what 
quarry-men  term  "  clay-facings,"  that  is,  they  are  encrusted 
with  a  thin  film  of  indurated  clay. 

Greenstone  slate  ?  occurs  in  horizontal  beds  on  the  north 
shore,  eight  or  nine  miles  to  the  westward  of  Dease  River: 


bur  hun- 
lls.  I  did 
n  seeing 
nc  point, 
::  angul al- 
ive little 
jighboui- 

3,  and  its 
v-(\ve  fa- 
jar  Point 
md  from 
'ow  pari, 
from  the 
WL'Tavish 
the  lake. 
,  have  an 
it  or  nine 
from  the 
rakazzae, 
se  River, 
of  Dease 
to  three 
ver  a  for- 
3  noticed 


r  six  hun- 
itirely,  of 
beds  con- 
ontaining 
Q  the  sur- 
:r,  consist 
i  by  veins 
ipact,  ap- 
ave  what 
encrusted 

the  north 
se  River: 


TOPOORAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOQICAL  NOTICES.  267 

«m»n  l!;:'"""r?n  ^*''"*'*  ^^^'"^  *^*^"*y  "^'les  from  the  river,  a 
small  range  of  h.Iis  terminates  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  in 
shelvmg,  broken  cl.fls,  about  two  hundred  feet  high.     The  e 

f  leraSd^'-'^ °^ "^"'^ ''""'''' light-coloure'd  dolomfte. 

interstratjfied  with  greenstone,  and  a  brownish-red  limestone 

uch  as  occurs  in  the  hills  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dea  rR  ver 

t^one'tav  n";'^'  '^'  ^"^"1^°"^'  '^'"'^  '«  ^  ^'^  °^  taJcoseTmel 
dnlnmi  ^K^  T'^^^  ''^^^  structure.'  most  of  the  beds  of 
dolomite  are  hard,  and  pass  into  chert. 

ALUMINOUS  SHALE—GREAT  BEAR  LAKE. 

ml^V^^^/^'''^''!^''''^  L^^«  •«  low,  and  is  skirted  by 
many  shoals,  formed  by  boulders  of  limestone.    No  rocks,  il 

rro'/wn^P"''''^  ""^^Tf "  Limestone  Point  and  the  Scented 
and  Lifh  K^  remarkable  promontory,  which  separates  Smith 
l^tu^  7P  .  '*'  '?^'S5^  ^^°^^  t'^e  lake  is  betSixt  eight  and 
nine  hundred  feet  and  in  form  and  altitude  it  corresponds  with 
the  Great  Bear  Mountain,  which,  lying  opposite  to  it,  sepa- 

*  Section  of  the  cliffs  at  Limestone  Point-strata  dipping  to  the  N.N.W. 


real"  ^'^®J"'''*'°"  ^^^  ^^"'^''  "«  represented  much  more  inclined  than  they 

231  Fine-grained    nearly  compact,  yellowish-gray  dolomite,  forming  the 

of '""olo'ls      *''"'  *"'^'  ^^^  ^"*'  "'  '°^^^'  stratum,  in  the  languag. 

232  Compact,  splintery  dolomite,  with  a  conchoidal  fracture,  and  wax-vel- 

low  colour — second  stratum.  ■' 

233  A  chorty  dolomite;  containing  calc-spar— third  stratum. 

234  Bluish-gray  dolomite,  traversed  by  calc-spar— is  nearly  compact,  and 

has  an  uneven,  splintery  fracture— forms  the  uppermost  portion  of 
the  fourth  stratum.  *^ 

235  Talcose  ?  limestone,  having  a  curved  slaty  structure,  and  containing 
«o^  ^^cherty  portions— from  the  lower  part  of  the  fourth  stratum. 

236,  237  Earthy  greenstone?  forms  the  fifth  stratum. 

238  Brownish-red  dolomite,  with  ai\  uneven  fracture,  scarcely  splintery.     It 

has  a  compact  structure,  and  is  intersected  by  veins  of  calc-spar- 

from  the  sixth  stratum. 

^n  J;:\^il^''^\°T'^^F''^  dolomite,  passing  into  chert— seventh  stratum, 
o^o  241  Thm  slaty  beds  of  brownish-red  dolomite,  like  238— eighth  stratum. 
-4^  Bluish-white  porcelain  cJiert,  sometimes  mixed  with  red  dolomite— 243 
— ninth  stratum. 


My 


268 


APPENDIX. 


rates  M'Vicar  and  Keith  bays.  I  did  not  ascend  either  of 
these  hills;  but  cHffs,  corresponding  in  character  to  those  of 
the  aluminous  shale-banks  at  Whitby,  flank  thoir  bases;  and 
the  same  formation  probab; ,  extends  along  the  north  shore  of 
Keith  Bay,  and  some  way  down  Bear  Lake  Rivtr.  The 
ground  skirting  the  Scented  Grass  and  Great  Bear  Mountains 
is  much  broken,  and  consists  of  small,  rounded  and  steep  emi- 
nences, separated  by  narrow  vailies  and  small  lakes.  Several 
shelving  cliffs,  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  some  miles  in 
extent  are  washed  by  Bear  Lake.  They  consist  of  slate-clay 
and  shale,  more  or  less  bituminous,  and  the  dip  of  the 
strata  is  in  several  places  to  the  N.W.  by  N.  At  the 
foot  of  the  Scented  Grass  Hill  a  rivulet  has  made  a  sec- 
tion to  the  depth  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  here  the  shaly 
bedsare  interstratified  with  thin  layers  of  blackish-brown, 
earthy-looking  swinestone,  containing  selenite  and  py- 
rites. Globular  concretions  of  the  same  stone,  and  of  a 
poor  clay  iron-stone,  also  occur  in  beds  in  the  shale.  The 
surfaces  of  the  slates  were  covered  with  an  efflorescence 
of  alum  and  sulphur.  Many  crystals  of  sulphat  of  iron 
lie  at  the  bottom  of  the  cliff,  and  several  layers  of  plu- 
mose alum,  half  an  inch  thick,  occur  in  the  strata.  At 
the  base  of  Great  Bear  Mountain,  the  bituminous  shale 
is  interstratified  with  slate-clay,  and  I  found  imbedded  in  the 
former  a  single  piece  of  brown  coal,  in  which  the  fibrous  struc- 
ture of  wood  is  apparent.  Sections  of  slate-clay  banks,  and 
more  rarely  of  bituminous  shale,  occur  in  several  places  on  (he 
north  shore  of  Keith  Bay.  In  one  place,  about  seven  or  eight 
miles  from  Bear  Lake  River,  a  bed  of  plastic  and  bituminous 
clay  occurs,  and  in  another,  near  Fort  Franklin,  there  is  a  de- 
posit of  an  earthy  coal,  which  possesses  the  characters  o(  black 
chalk. 

It  is  probable  that  a  magnesian  limestone  underlies  this  for- 
mation of  bitumir\ous  shale.  I  have  already  mentioned  the  beds 
of  dolomite,  which  are  exposed  on  the  north  side  of  Bear  Lake, 
and  similar  beds  occur  to  the  southward  of  the  Great  Bear 
Mountain,  forming  cliffs  on  the  shores  of  M' Vicar  Bay.  At 
Manito  Point,  on  the  west  side  of  the  isthmus  that  connects 
Great  Bear  Mountain  to  the  main  shore,  a  low  ridge  of  lime- 
stone rocks  terminates  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  forming 
some  bold  cliffs  and  a  remarkable  cave.  The  stone  has  a  gniy 
colour  and  bituminous  smell,  and  contains  much  interspersed 
calc-spar.     The  strata  dip  to  the  north-west. 


251 


244 
246 
247 


249 
250 
248 


262 


2Ga 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  269 


VICINITY  OF  FORT  FRANKLIN,  GREAT  BEAR 

LAKE. 

Fort  Franklin  stands  on  the  northern  shore  of  Keith  Bav 
about  four  m.les  from  Bear  Lake  River,  upon  a  small  terrace' 

t:h:itTJi'''?''-''T  I'  '""'^'y''^'  abo'e  the  fake.' 
I  he  bay,  contractmg  towards  the  river,  is  about  four  miles 

west  shorp/nf  J/   kT'-     ^''f^^'"  ^''^'"  ^^^  '•'^e'*'  the  east  and 

from  each  othi  1  ^^^ '/'^^^  *"  *^^  ^'^^^"^^  «f  thirty  miles 
irom  each  other  and  the  depth  of  water  in  the  centre  of  the 
channel  greatly  increases.  The  bottom  of  this  bay,  whe  ever 
could  be  distinguished,  was  observed  to  be  sand  J  andXck- 
ly  strewed  with  round  boulders*  of  various  primilWe  rocks  of 

*  List  of  boulders  gathered  on  the  beach  at  Fort  Franklin. 


261  Coarse  crystalline  granite;  fel- 

spar flesh-red  in  large  crystals ; 
quartz  gray;  mica  black. 

262  Granite;  felspar  paler,  and  less 

distinctly  crystallized ;  quartz 

111  small  quantity,  gray ;  mica 

'  and  rather  abundant. 

263  Granite  ;  felspar  partly  reddish, 

partly  yellowish-white,  quartz 
m  small  grains ;  mica  equalling 
•  he  quartz  in  quantity,  black. 

204  Granite,  fine-grained;  quartz  and 
felspar,  white,  the  fo  mer  near- 
ly transparent,  black  mica  in 
small  specks,  garnets. 
268  Granite;  quartz  in  regukr 
crystals;  mica  blackish,  in 
small  quantity. 
Granite?  red  felspar  in  large 
crystals;  quartz  gray;  mica 
replaced  by  chlorite? 

267  Granite ;  felspar  gray ;  chlorite  ? 
in  small  quantity. 

269  Granite,  small  grained,  passing 

into  gneiss ;  reddish-brown  fel- 
spar and  gray  quartz,  intimate- 
ly mixed,  and  having  in  the 
»^gregato,  a  vitreous  lustre; 
mica  in  layers. 

270  Granite  coarser  grained  than  the 

preceding,  containing  more 
quartz ;  tlie  mica  disseminated. 
2/1,273  Granite  with  little  mica, 
Komc  jioiiiouH  of  tlic  felspar 
tinged  green. 


Granite  grayish  and 
small  grained  mica 
black. 


205, 


266 


272,  274, 
27r>,  277, 
278,  279, 
280, 

276   Granite;      brick-red      felspar; 

quartz ;  and  augite  ? — no  mica. 

The  mica  is  mostly  black  in  all  the 

granite  boulders  that  occur  here,  the 

felspav  most  frequently  reddish. 

281  Pcrphyritic  granite  ?  felspar  im- 
perfectly crystallized,  contain- 
ing large,  imbedded  crystals; 
quartz ;  and  chlorite  ? 

282  Granite  ?  composed  of  felspar,  of 
quartz,   with,  perhaps,  a  few 
minute  grains  of  chlorite? 

283  Granite?  contains  little  quartz, 
and  a  few  scales  of  mica,  with 
!  omo  chlorite  ? 

284  Sienite;  felspar  somewhat  gra- 
nular, a  little  quartz  and  chlo- 
rite ? 

285  Porphyritic  sienite  ?  having  a  ba- 
sis of  slightly  granular  felspar, 
with  light-coloured  crystals  of 
felspar,  some  quartz  and  disse- 
minated grains  of  chlorite? 

286  Reddish-brown  hornstone  por- 
phyry. 

287  Crystalline  greenstone. 

288  Fine-grained  greenstone. 

289  Porphyritic  greenstone. 

290  Pitchstono  porphyry. 

291  Greenstone  slate  witli  pyrites. 


270 


APPENDIX. 


large  size,  which  were  particularly  abundant  near  the  iiver, 
and  wX  arge  square  blocks  ofllmestone  most  Plentiful  near 
the  c^pe  formed  by  the  Scented  Grass  H.ll.  In  the  small  bay 
between  Krt  and  the  river,  shoals  are  formed  by  accuniu. 
latins  of  boulders,  and  the  shores  are  thickly  strewed  w.th 

261  to  308  of  flesh-red  granite,  having  only  a  small  quantity 
of  black  mica,  exactly  resembhng  the  primitive 
rocks  seen  in  M'Tavish  Bay,  but  noticed  no  where  else  near 
Se  lake  Boulders  of  the'same  description  occur  in  shoals 
at  the  mouth  of  M'Tavish  Bay,  and  on  the  shores  which  skirt 
the  ScTnted  Grass  Hill  which  faces  that  bay,  to  all  which 
nlaces  they  may  have  been  brought  from  the  parent  rock,  by 
Sent  flowing  from  the  east'  On  the  northern  shore  of 
Bear  £ake  the  great  majority  of  the  boulders  consists  of  hme- 
stone     Two  varieties  of  granite,  which  occur  aniongst  the 

boulders,  were  recognised  as  being  abundant  rocks 
266  282  at  Fort  Enterprise,  which  is  situated  about  one  hun- 

dred  and  seventy  miles  south-east  from  M'Tavish 
Bav  Some  of  the  boulders  were  of  a  peculiar-looking  por- 
phy^y  exactly  resembling  that  which  occurs  in  the  height  of 
fand  betwixt  the  Coppermine  River  and  Dease  Bay;  several 
of  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  which  probably  came  from  the 
same  quarter,  of  greenstone,  perhaps  from  the  Copper  Moun- 
tains, and  onnv;estone  from  the  northern  shores  of  the  lake, 
and  from  the  isthmus  of  the  Great  Bear  Mountain;  all  these 
places  l/i :r£  io  the  eastward  or  north-east. 

The  so>rin  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fort  Franklin  is  sandy 
or  gravelH.  and  covers,  to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  feet,  a  bed 
of  cbv  ofiin-aiown  thickness.  Gravel  taken  from  a  spot  thir- 
iy  feet  above  the  present  high-water  level  of  the  lake,  and  out 
of  the  reach  of  any  stream  or  torrent,  contained  rounded  peb- 
bles  of  granite,  of  greenstone,  of  quartz  rock,  of  lydian  stone, 
and  of  various  sandstones,  of  which  some  were  spotted,  and 


292  Amygdaloidal     claystono    por- 

phyry. 

293  Compact  grayish-blue  dolomite. 

294  Splintery  dolomite. 

295  Cellular  dolomite. 

296  Swincstone.   • 

297  Limestone  with  corallines. 

298  Chert. 

299  White  quartz. 

300  Quartz-rQck. 


301  Coarse  sandstone. 

302  Fine-grained  white  sandstone. 

303  Fine-grained  red  sandstone; 

304  Fine-grained  striped  sandstone. 

305  Fine-grained  spotted  sandstone. 

306  Slaty  sandstone  verging  towards 

slate-clay. 

307  Dark-red  claystono. 

308  Light-coloured  claystone. 


he  liver, 
tiful  near 
imall  bay 
accumu- 
,ved  with 
s  consist 
quantity 
primitive 
else  near 
in  shoals 
tiich  skirt 
ill  which 
rock,  by 
shore  of 
s  of  lime- 
ongst  the 
ant  rocks 
one  hun- 
M'Tavish 
king  por- 
height  of 
r;  several 
B  from  the 
ler  Moun- 
the  lake, 
,  all  these 

[1  is  sandy, 
eet,  a  bed 
spot  thir- 
3,  and  out 
nded  peb- 
lian  stone, 
ottcd,  and 


sandstone, 
idstone; 
1  sandstone, 
d  sandstone, 
ging  towards 


stone. 


TO,.0aRA,.„,CAL  AND  <,^OL0<.,CAL  NOTICES.  27, 

penetrating  mo7e  than  . "  nfv  n""'  "u  '''r'"^''  '^'^  ■>«"" 
the  earth.    In  spots  wheS       7''' •,'•"'"'"  *«  ="'«>«  »f 

-^ey  see.  t:  rife -IC^X^^^^^^ 

hundred  feet,  forrninf  wZn  v^  *^'r^'''"'  f^"  ^^'g^*  ^^  ^^^ 
even  ridge,  riS "  '-Hv  p"  V  "^^^  ^'T  *'^"  southward,  an 
fact,  thcLgh  ban?of  the  fakTasTt  .7^  "^S^  '«'  >" 

the  summit  levd  of  he  banks'  flTT'^"^'  '"  height  with 
southern  shorHf  Keith  R.v  T^  ^^^^  ^'^^'^  ^'^d  of  the 
northward,  ?rom  the  ton  of  Ihp  Z  t  ^«""^''3',^^tending  to  the 

cn,i"en  e  is  very  ex^ensirthr""  I."";  '""""i'  "'  *''  =^«»"» 
^..«  ^  1    -^  ^^•'^"sive,  the  whole  countrv  as  far  a«  tho 

e)e  can  reach  appearing  to  be  a  level,  from Vwch  several 

*  Liil  of  Specimens  from  Diluvial  Gravel,  Fort  Franklin. 

«  Coar.0  Mndalone ;  iZndad^r^^ZJP    '  ''.""S'fKJ' "»"  to  sandrtono. 

9  F,„e-gra,„ed  par;,rratd,f„™  r.hT"LCt%\&^^ 

curs  m  *i/u  near  tlip  Cnnr^n..  m       f'\"^y'^"  spots.   1  his  sandstone  oc- 

Coppormine  RlJer!      ^^     Mountains,  between  Dease  Bay  and  the 

10  Fine-grained  yellowish-white  sandstone, 

I3  llnZ:ne%ll-^^^^^^^^  S--  -^ vitreous  quartz. 

11  Lydian  stone  '       '  of  brownish-red  colour,  in  layers. 


070 


APPENDIX. 


narrow  precipitous  ridges  of  limestone  arise.   But,  although 
the  country  around  these  ridges  appears  from  a  distance  to  be 
level,  or  very  slightly  undulated,  yet  it  abounds  m  small  emi- 
nences and  steep-sided  vaUies  of  various  shapes,  ome  being 
rounded  and  basin-shaped,  others  long  and  narrow.     Lakes 
and  swamps  are  here  so  numerous,  that  the  country,  for  at 
least  sixty  miles  to  the  northward,  is  impassable  in  summer 
even  to  the  natives.     There  are  many  mounds  of  sand  and 
eravel,  and  fragments  of  sandstone  are  frequent;  but  having 
travelled  in  this  direction  only  in  winter,  when  the  ground 
was  covered  to  the  depth  of  upwards  of  three  feet  with  snow, 
I  had  not  an  opportunity  of  examining  its  geological  structure. 
White  spruces  cover  the  drier  spots;  larches,  black  spruces, 
and  willows  abound  in  moist  places ;  the  sandy  hillocks  are 
clothed  with  aspens,  and  the  sides  of  the  vallies  support  some 
canoe  birches,  with  a  thick  undergrowth  of  dwarf  birches, 
alders,  and  rose-bushes.  The  eminence  from  Avhence  the  view 
iust  described  was  obtained,  appears  like  a  ridge  only  in  ap- 
proaching it  from  the  lake,  for  it  rises  very  little  above  the 
general  level  of  the  country  behind  it.  It  has  a  direction  from 
N  W  by  N.  to  S.E.  by  S.,  and  terminates  about  eight  miles  to 
the  eastward  of  the  fort,  in  a  small  bluff  point  on  the  shores  of 
the  lake  and  there  the  strata  consist  of  slate-clay  slightly  bi- 
tuminous.    The  banks  immediately  behind  the  fort  also  exhi- 
bit, in  their  ravines,  a  bluish  slate-clay. 

The  land  on  the  south  side,  or  bottom,  of  Keith  liay,  pre- 
^ents  a  nearly  similar  aspect  to  that  just  described,  rising  on 
the  borders  of  the  lake,  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and  hfty 
feet  and  then  running  back  lo  a  great  distance  nearly  level. 
It  may  be  characterized  as  full  of  hollows,  narrow  vallies,  ra- 
vines, and  lakes ;  but  it  is  not  hilly,  although  it  is  traversed  by 
ridges  of  limestone,  which  rise  like  walls  through  the  flat 
country.  The  nearest  of  these  ridges  terminates  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  lake  at  the  Manito  Point,  (noticed  in  page  vii.)  It 
may  be  proper  to  remark  here,  that,  in  addition  to  the  lime- 
stone ridges  visible  from  Fort  Franklin,  or  from  the  heights 
behind  it;  the  summit  of  Clark  Hill,  bearing  south,  and  forming 
nart  of  a  ridge  about  fifty  miles  distant,  was  distinctly  seen. 
This  hill  lies  behind  Old  Fort  Norrnan  on  the  Mackenzie,  and 
has  more  the  outline  of  a  granitic  rock,  although  some  of  the 
peaks  which  skirt  it  have  the  serrated  crests  which  the  lime- 
stone ridges  in  this  quarter  show.  It  was  guessed  to  be  loOO 
feet  high  above  the  Mackenzie.  '     .     . 

This  sketch  of  the  general  features  of  the  country  about 


although 
nee  to  be 
mall  emi- 
me  being 
.     Lakes 
ry,  for  at 
summer, 
sand  and 
ut  having 
\e  ground 
rith  snow, 
structure. 
I  spruces, 
liocks  are 
port  some 
f  birches, 
3  the  view 
•nly  in  ap- 
above  the 
ction  from 
tit  miles  to 
e  shores  of 
slightly  bi- 
;  also  exhi- 

i  Bay,  pre- 

,  rising,  on 
;d  and  fifty 
sarly  level, 
vallies,  ra- 
aversed  by 
^h  the  flat 
)n  the  bor- 
ge  vii.)  It 
3  the  lime- 
the  heights 
and  forming 
inctly  seen. 
;kenzie,and 
lome  of  the 
h  the  lime- 
to  be  1500 

jiitry  about 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  273 

loHow  in  the  order  of  the  route  of  the  Expedition? 

BEAR  LAKE  RIVER-SANDSTONE,  LIMESTONE. 

Bear  Lake  River  is  about  seventy  miles  lone  from  it-  nrJ 
gmm  the  lake  till  it  falls  into  the  MLkenzirand  Zilhou; 
Its  w^hole  length,  its  breadth  is  never  less  than  one  hundred 

the^m  §:ife'on;''''P'  ''  ^^?^^"^'  ^  ''"^^'^'"^^^  place^aboul 

nd  v^rv  raJd  it?vT- '. '  k '•^'"'"  '''' ''  '^''^  ^^^^^^^ deep 
hour  Li  f  '^^'°?^^  ^'^'"g  estimated  at  six  miles  in  the 
hour.  Its  waters  are  clear  as  they  issue  from  the  lake  hnt 
several  branches  of  considerable  size  bring  dow^  imiddv  wk^^^^^^ 

Fo~ra^id^""''^''°"^  '^°™  '""^  nUanTSlfsTnte: 

h.tt''''^  ^^^  'T^'  *^^  y^^^^y  °^'*h^  "^er  is  very  narrow  the 
banks  every  where  sloping  steeply  from  the  level  of  thnoun- 
try.     Their  summit  line,  which  is  nearlv  straiahf  i.  .vZ  ^         • 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  theVe?ort{i:'t';r  ~ 
places  they  have  an  even  face  elevated  at  an  angle  of  about 
fbry-five  degrees,  and  they  are  not  unfrequently  cut  by  ra't 
into  pretty  regular  figures,  resembling  hay-ricks,  or  the  paranet 
m^dl^hv'  h'  '"''"'^  representing  the  embrasures      sSns 
made  by  the  river  presented  generally  sand  or  clay;  the   and 
probably  proceedmg  from  the  disintegration  of  a  friable  Sav 
sandstone   which  showed  itself  occasionally  in  a  mo  e'sS 
form.     The  rapidity  of  our  voyage,  however,  afforded  us  lit  le 
opportunity  of  searching  for  the^olid  strata  which  are  gene! 
rally  hid  by  the  debri.  of  the  bank.     About  twelve  miles  above 
the  rapid,  a  small-grained,  friable  sandstone,  of  a  ydlowllh 

IT.fr-'u''^  '"'f^"'"';  ^^-V  f'-acture,  is' associated  with 
beds  of  blu.sh-gray  slate-clay.  These  beds  consist  of  cone  e 
ons  of  various  sizes  and  irregular  shapes,  but  which  may  be 
said  to  approach  in  general  to  a  depressed  orbicular  form  •  their 
surfaces  are  coloured  purplish-brown  by  iron,  and  TtudHpH 
with  crystals  of  sulphate  of  lime.  This'  slatelcC  conS 
many  small  round  grains  of  quartz,  and  is  exact/similar  ?o 
that  which  occurs  at  the  rapid,  and  which  will  be  afterwards 
noticed.     In  other  places  the  banks  are  covered  by  the  debri 

IdetfllTegtt^  •^^^"'"^"^"^^  -''^^^^  ^^^ 


■■ii?.  , 


^ 


274 


APPENDIX. 


The  Rapid  is  caused  by  the  river  struggling  through  a  chasm 
bounded  by  two  perpendicular  walls  of  sandstone,  over  an  un- 
even bed  of  the  same  material.  On  escaping  from  this  narrow 
passage,  it  winds  round  the  end  of  a  lofty  clitf  of  limestone, 
which  forms  part  of  a  ridge  that  is  continued  through  the 
country  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

Viewed  from  the  summit  of  this  ridge,  which  rises  about 
eight  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  the  country  towards  Bear 
Lake  appears  level.  The  view  down  the  river  presents  also 
a  plain  country,  bounded  on  the  Mackenzie  by  another  lime- 
stone ridge,  which,  unless  the  eye  was  deceived  by  the  dis- 
tance, gradually  inclined  to  the  one  at  the  rapid,  and  appeared, 
by  joining  it  to  the  northward,  to  form  a  great  basin.  These 
ridges  are  also  prolonged  to  the  southward.  The  plain  is 
covered  with  wood,  intersected  by  chains  of  lakes,  and  seemed 
to  lie  rather  below  the  summit  level  of  the  banks  of  Bear 
Lake  River.  It  is  only  comparatively,  that  the  country  de- 
serves the  name  of  plain,  for  its  surface  is  much  varied  by 
depressions,  ravines,  and  small  eminences,  that  do  not,  how- 
ever, destroy  the  general  level  appearance  when  seen  from  a 
distance.  The  view  from  the  hill  is  terminated,  to  the  west- 
ward, by  the  distant  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  running 
nearly  N.W.  by  N.  A  little  below  the  rapid,  a  small  stream 
from  the  southward  flows  into  the  Bear  Lake  River,  near 
whose  sources  the  Indians  procure  an  excellent  common  salt, 
which  is  deposited  from  the  springs  by  spontaneous  evapora- 
tion. 

The  walls  of  the  rapid  are  about  three  miles  long,  and  120 
feet  high.  They  are  composed  of  horizontal  beds,  the  lower 
of  wiiich  consist  of  an  earthy-looking  stone,  intermediate 
25  between  slate-clay  and  sandstone,  having  interiorly  a  dull 
yellov/ish-gray  colour.  Concrciions,  with  smooth  sur- 
faces, about  the  thickness  of  a  swan's  quill,  pass  perpendicu- 
larly through  the  beds  like  pins,  are  prolonged  beyond  the 
partings,  and  bear  some  resemblance  to  portions  of  the  roots 
or  branches  of  a  tree.  The  seam  surfaces  are  very  uneven. 
These  beds  are  parted  by  thin  slaty  layers,  of  a  stone  similar 
in  appearance,  but  rather  harder,  and  containing  many  inter- 
spersed scales  of  mica,  and  also  some  minute  portions 

1 8  of  carbonaceous  matter  in  the  form  of  lignite.     The 
thin  layers  contain  impressions  of  ferns,  and  from  the 

19  debris  at  the  bottom  o(f  the  clitll  gathered  impressions 
1827     of  the  bark  of  a  tree  (Icpidoderidron)  and  some  am- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  275 

monites  in  a  brown  iron-shot  sandstone  *    Th. 

are  composed  of  «  fin^  ^'  j  "^"^  "PP^^  ^eds 
18,20,21,  sandstone  having  «n  ".K^'u"^.*^'  ^^^'^zose,  gray 
22,23,24    inter  p.rs;dc?rLn^^  ^'''''  ""^  occasionaJJy 

26,27,         beds  a^re  a  foot^nd  fh  ,?!k'"?"'''-     S°"^«  <>f  the 
tenacity  to  be  fitted  ?nr  f  ^^•'^'  ^"^  *^^^^  ^^^^'ent 
,3  *^esanit^:tw,^^^^^^^^^^ 

28  summit  there  is  interoosed  a  JwJ  «?«         ^^^"^  ^^e 

limestone,  havinTa^bluish  o.  h     '^^^^^  "  '^^^^  o^^J^*; 

29  fracture,  an^iafbL  cnmn^.f  f '''!^"S''^>^  ^°^°"r'  '^  ^"11 
beds  of  he  cliff  thpr/.^*?^^^  '"  the  lower 

concretions,  o'fln^'ifd^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

iron-stone,  containing  nvHtes      Thlt      ^'  •  "^  P®"**"  *^'^^- 

30  from  six  inches  to  a  foo^tCd  a  hllf  7„  VmZ"''^f'''' 
pear  to  be  formed  of  concentric  layers  whf^^^^^    ^"^  ^P; 

apparent  by  the  weathering  of  ^e  stone      Th?/"^"*^^'^'^ 
shales  of  the  raoid  hive  IJrl  l,  ^^^  sandstones  and 

to  those  of  theToal  measure;  ;^^  '"  «PP^^^-"^e 

at  this  place.     Severardistfnr;  .ij  *?"^^^' ^^^  "^t  detected 
clay,  assuming  thranne^nnV^fT*'^"'  ^^'n^urated  slate- 

way  be bw  the  ranid  hnf  fh«,,  '"'"^""^  ^ear  i^ake  River,  some 
be/s     Tl.e/:Ste  wite"  ""'  '^'''^'' '»  "'eir  parent 

upper  of  whi/^l  co„'sw3v  abolVn  '^"''k"'  1'™  ','='■"■=<=''  "«= 
of  the  rivulet,  or  of  B^p  LaS  R^ver  Th?';'''','^^'  ''""' 
of  varieties  of  granite  rnpi^mi;!  ?\  '^^.''"uWcrs  consist 
stone  and  porohvrV^  X^  r  fh  '^  T'""-  8""«ls.  green- 
m    stone,  co^^oHTf  hyacinth  re7Z'7™'  'V  .''>'^""''"' 

crystals  of  ".iik,  „„ar^t::'rti;i  ff^"4U"A;TS 

It  contain,  .ulphiio  of  barvto.  „n,l  ?i  „.  u  V, '  "'/"' '"'  '  ™"  'li»cover,  nc«r 

h...  no  doubt  of  it,  havi4  f.lltn  S^lrof.t';'    fi',',  °"  '^•'  ''"'*•  ' 
which  form  Ihe  walk  of  the  rapid  "'"  '""''  "f'^'VH  .»nd.ton., 


!  '< 


'J" 

4  ■' 


-  f 

vli 


•ft 


3'* 


176 


APPENDIX. 


."^'.W; 


W0! 


45 
47 
50 
51 
49 


ZToTth  bo*  We^  "^^^^^^^^^  of  co„glomer..es  and  sand- 
Slt  strongly  resenjWe  .ho,e  <^  *«  oW  -d  -d^ 

"^Tke  limestone  ridge  below  the  ™pid  ^t^';-)-"  "^--o" 
base,  whose  transverse  diameter  does  "»'"«'"*  J"  „BKed 

flat  »«7™^'"f  »*f  ,;;  °  forty  mnerand  it  is  visible  at  nearly 

Bear  ^J^  ,^;;j  V  ^e  perhaps  considered  as  the  general 
S^^l^  hV^t  on'tKd'e  slop'es  down  to.  the  surround.g 
country  at  an  anele  of  about  30°  or  40°,  while  on  the  N  E 
.^de  it  presents  bfty  precipices  formed  by  the  cropping  out  of 
the  strata  Many  of  the  beds  in  this  hill  consisted  of  a  black- 
the  strata      many  u^estone,  intersected  by  veins 

,q  ^4  of  elk  spar ;  but  several  layers  of  gray  and  dark 
''1o  colon  ed^dolomites,  and  some  of  a  yeHowish^gjay 
rauchv^acke,  were  interstratified  with  the"i  -"f  ^h^^^ 
uDoer  Darts  of  the  precipitous  cliff,  and  also  of  the  highest 
upper  par.  01  ^  J^^J^^  ^  ^^^^,,,,„,  ^recaa,  con  aining 

3 _  3g       P-„„iga  pieces  of  brown  limestone,  and  angular  frag- 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


277 


I  is  not 
jrprize. 
d  sand- 
d  sand- 
etween 
e  flinty 
jh  lime- 
th  flinty 

narrow 
arter  of 
rugged 
visiting 
already 
,  stream, 
\\  direc- 
ir  nearly 
3  smaller 
ough  the 
e  River, 
it  nearly 
ve\  coun- 
lid,  it  ap- 
utby  the 
i  is  about 
rhat  part 
consisted 
itification 
lation  the 
tous  cliff, 
ed  by  the 
W.  at  an 
le  general 
rrounding 
the  N.E. 
ing  out  of 
►f  a  black- 
Iby  veins 
and  dark 
(wish-gray 
1,  and  the 
le  highest 
containing 
igular  frag- 


ments of  chert;  and  the  faces  of  some  cliffs,  on  the 
42,43,44  N.E.  side  of  the  hill,  were  incrusted  with  a  fine 

crystalline  gypsum  to  the  depth  of  from  one  to 
two  feet.* 

The  banks  of  Bear  Lake  River  below  the  rapid  have  a 
more  gentle  declivity  than  those  above  it,  and  they  occasion- 
ally  recede  from  the  stream,  so  as  to  leave  a  grassy  sjope 
varying  from  a  few  yards  to  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  The'eec- 
tions  of  these  banks  by  torrents  present  only  sand  or  clay  ;  and 
the  hollows  of  the  ravines  are  lined  with  boulders  principally 
of  primitive  rocks.  No  stone  was  observed  in  situ  from  the 
rapid  until  we  came  to  the  junction  of  the  river  with  the 
Mackenzie. 

The  Bear  Lake  River  flows  into  the  Mackenzie  at  a  right 
angle,  and  on  its  north  bank,  at  its  mouth,  there  is  a  hill, 
which  has  been  already  noticed  as  forming  part  of  a  ridge 
visible  from  the  one  at  the  rapid,  with  which  it  probably  unites 
to  form  a  great  basin.  These  two  hills  seem  to  belong  to  the 
same  formation.  The  body  of  the  hill  consists  of  highly- 
inclined  beds  of  blackish-gray  limestone,  with  sparry 
veins,  and  of  brownish-gray  dolomite,  which  cannot  be 
distinguished  in  hand  specimens  from  that  uf  the  hill  at 
the  rapid.  The  superior  beds  are  formed  of  a  calcareous 


61,62 
60 


*  33  This  limestone  appears  as  if  composed  of  an  aggregate  of  small  crys- 
tals, and  presents  many  drusy  cavities. 

34  Is  an  adjoining  bed  of  a  similar  colour,  of  a  fine  crystalline  texture,  but 
without  the  drusy  cavities.  It  appears  to  be  a  dolomite.  These  two 
beds  dip  to  the  northward. 

35,  36  Calcareous  breccia.  The  two  preceding  beds  (33  and  34)  were  from 
the  summit  of  the  portion  of  the  hill  which  forms  the  cliff,  but  taken  a 
little  farther  to  the  N.W.  In  the  cliff  the  beds  dip,  as  has  been  stated, 
to  the  S.W.  The  following  beds  occur  in  going  to  the  north-westward, 
towards  the  summit  of  the  highest  peak,  commencing  near  its  base,  in 
a  valley  behind  the  cliff. 

37  A  fine-grained  blackish-gray  dolomite,  having  interspersed  many  nodules 

of  chert,  or  grayish-white  quartz,  not  crystallized. 

38  A  very  compact,  opaque  limestone,  of  a  smoke-gray  colour,  having  a 

flat  and  slightly  splintery  fracture.    Effervesces  briskly. 

39  Blackish-gray  rather  compact  limestone,  having  a  flat  and  dull  fracture, 

and  intersected  by  small  veins  of  calc-spa.  This  is  a  prevalent  stone  in 
the  hill,  and  also  occurs  in  quantity  in  other  limestone  ridges  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

40  An  ath-gray,  fine-granular  dolomite. 

41  A  conglomerate,  forming  the  summit  of  the  highest  peak. 


278 


APPENDIX. 


57     breccia.*   Associated  with  these  strata,  however,  there 

58,59    are  beds  of  Hmcstone,  highly  charged  with  bitumen  -, 

63,64    and  at  the  base  of  the  hill  there  are  beds  of  bituminous 

65     shale,  some  of  which  etll  rvesce  with  acids,  whilst  others 

ai)proach  in  hardness,  and  other  characters,  to  flinty 

slate.     These  shaly  beds  were  seen  by  Captain  Franklin  and 

Mr.  Kendall  in  autumn  1825,  and  they  also  saw,  at  that  time, 

some  sulphureous  springs  and  streams  of  mineral  pitch  issuing 

from  the  lower  parts  of  the  lim(  stone  strata;  but  the  whole  of 

them  were  hid  by  the  height  of  the  waters  of  the  Mackenzie 

in  the  spring  of  I836.t     The  same  cause  prevented 

69,66    me  from  seeing  some  beds  of  lignite  and  sandstone,  at 

67,68    the  same  place,  of  which  Captain  Franklin  obtained 

specimens. 


I 


I 


LIGNITE  FORMATION.— MACKENZIE'S  RIVER. 

Having  noticed  the  general  features  of  this  portion  of  the 
river,  I  have  next  to  state,  that  the  formation  constituting  its 
banks  may  be  characterized  as  consisting  of  wood-coal  in  va- 


I 


11 


*  57  This  breccia  has  a  white  calcareous  basis,  which  incloK'  s  angular  frag- 
ments of  compact,  yellowish-gray  limestone,  with  smoo;  h  dull  surfaces. 

58  Grayish-white  limestone,  having  a  fine  crystalline  texture,  with  drusy 

cavities,  incrustcd  with  bitumen. 

59  Limestone,  apparently  composed  of  crystalline  fragments,  highly  charged 

with  bitumen,  cemented  by  a  whitish  carbonate  of  lime  in  miimte  crys- 
tals. I  could  not  satisfy  myself  whether  this  variety  of  colour  pro- 
ceeded from  partial  impregnations  of  bitumen,  or  from  a  brecciated 
structure.  Specimens  58  and  59  were  from  beds  near  the  western  part 
of  the  hill. 

60  A  fine-grained  dolomite,  approaching  to   compact,  having  a  flat  an(. 

somewhat  splintery  fracture,  and  a  brownish-gray  colour. 

61,  62  Limestone  in  the  body  of  the  hill,  resembling  No.  39  in  the  hill  at 
the  rapid  in  Bear  Lake  River,  but  with  larger  veins  of  calc-spj' r. 

63,  64  Dark  blackish-brown  bituminous  shale,  veined  with  calc-  )ar,  and 
passing  into  bituminous  marl-slate.  It  contains  nodules  of  iron  pyrites. 

65  Thin  bed  of  indurated  shale,  approaching  to  flir'y  slate,  lying  at  the 
foot  of  some  beds  of  bituminous  limestone.  Their  connection  not 
clearly  made  out. 

66,67,68  Bluish -gray,  fine-grained  sandsone,  some  of  them  passing  into 
slate-clay,  and  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  those  at  the  rapid  in 
Bear  Lake  River.  Capt.  Franklin  took  these  specimens  from  horizon- 
tal beds  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  facing  Bear  Lake  River. 

+  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  in  p.  95  of  his  Voyage  to  the  Arctic  Sea, 
states,  that  he  saw  several  small  mineral  springs  running  from  the  foot  of 
thia  mountain,  and  found  lumps  of  iron  ore  on  the  beach. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOgicAL  NOTICES. 

i 


279 


rious  states,  alternating  with  beds  of  pipe-clay  potter's  cl«v 
Kstratat^^^^^^^^  ^vith  porcelain  earth. 


of  lumJfo  on„   ° "  """-^""^ii',  ana  as  many  as  four  bed» 

I'n:  i;^;ro?r  H:.v,ri!'^"^:i^«  ^-f  "-ic,,  are" 


above  the  levplof  ihA-  u  T  •  i"^"''  ^'^^  "J'P'^''  of  which  an 
aooye  tne  Jevel  of  the  highest  nver-floods  of  the  present  dav 
The  l^gmte,  when  recently  detached  from  the  bedsTs  nre-tiv 

separa" 'into  1?  ''''''  '"'^  r^^'"^-^^^  pieces  wh'ic'h'agai^ 
separate  into  slates  more  or  less  fine.     It  burns  with  a  verv 

tt  LX'irTare'r  """''l"»  '''''  ^'  phos^^^^r:^"  with  1  f- 
lit  smoke  or  llame,  leaving  a  brownish-red  ash,  not  one-    nth 
of  the  original  bulk  of  the  coal.     The  blacksmith  found  kun 
nu!Z  w?  irj  •''"  r'Tu  ''^l^  ^'°"^'  ^"^  't  answered  when 

the    amc  bpH  nt   ^5?'^"'  ''^^''  ^"^  ^^^"  ^'^^''^'^t  P^rts  of 
n.rfh       1       '  P/^^?^"Jed  specimens  of  the  fibrous  brown-coal 
car  h-coal,  conchoidal  brown-coal,  and  trapezoidal  brown-coal 
of  Jameson.  Some  of  the  pieces  have  the  external  appra  a^^^^^^ 

?ractuTtt  fibZ"'  ?"*  /'^^  r^'^'^y  ^^»^'^'^'  inTe  c^s: 
iracture,  the  fibrous  structure  of  wood  in  concentric  layers 

apparently  much    compressed.      Other    specimens    have  a 
strong  externa    resemblance  to  charcoal  in^tructure,  co  our! 

and  lustre.     A  frequent  form  of  the  lignite  is  that  of 
48     s  ate,  of  a  dull,  brownish-black  colour,  but  yielding  a 

shining  streak.     The  slate  is  composed  of  LSs 
resembling  charred  wood,  united  together  by  a  paste  of  more 
comminuted  woody  matter,  mixed, 'perhapsf  with  a  small  por! 
tion  of  clay.     In  the  paste  there  are  some  t^nsparent  crys^tals 
of  sulphate  of  lime,  and  occasionally  some  min'ute  portions  of 
a  substance  like  resin.    These  shaly  beds  bear  a  strong  resem 
blance  to  peat,  not  only  in  structure  but  also  in  the  mode  of 
burning  and  in  the  light  whitish  ashes  which  are  left      The 
external  shape  of  stems  or  branches  of  trees,  is  best  preserved 
m  some  fragments  impregnated  with  slate-clay,  and  occasion- 
all>  with  siliceous  matter,  which  occur  imbedded  in  the  coal. 
Snl  nf'^h       these  pieces  has  been  converted  into  lignite. 
Some  of  them  exhibit  knots,  such  as  occur  where  a  branch  has 
decayed,  and  others  represent  the  twists  and  contortions  of 
wood  of  stunted  growth.     The  lignite  is  generally  penetrated 
by  fibrous  roots,  probably  rhizomor^ha,  which  insinuate  their 
ramifications  into  every  crevice. 

The  beds  of  lignite  appear  to  take  fire  spontaneously  when 
^^  A  *«  ^he  atmosphere.  They  were  burning  when  Sir 
Alexander  Mackenzie  passed  down  the  river  irf  1789,  and 


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280 


APPENDIS:. 


ha8  been  washed  away  by  the  river  t»«|^P^^\j^       ^^^  the 

Sin  ^i  tsisr^  %Hr^^'  "^'^  "^"^ 

mation,  of  clay-stoKe,  .nd  of  sWe^c^^^^^^ 

nrct  wW  h  ^vis  The  f  Stafficient  tenacity  to  fonn 

ceoa,  matter  resembling  the  roots  »( ;ef  «»"»•      ,4 ;,  fo„„a 

•  i^"l?:m°riiin:rralrth*rdtot.iy^..ot 

Saskatchewan,  and  is  ajoc'^^??  ^'^"  ,j  mentions  a  similar 
rhm^r  tttm^oV  pK;n's  being  found  in  the 
"«Thet'°ct.r.*r/wtroLrved  only  at  one  place  v,here 

spersed  through  them,  having  a  grayish  hue.  Its  beds  are 
two  to  three  yards  thick. 


♦  Travete  in  the  Aj.kanM,  p.  52—54. 


I,  ever 
,  large 
debris 
are  vi- 
ndthe 
(many 

sists  of 
f  white 
te,  like 
me  for- 
from  a 
;d  with 
to  form 
;,  in  the 
hin  lay- 
1  occur- 

gray  or 

bitumi- 

iarbona- 

18  found 
,  contact 
;  colour, 
lives  use 
s  said  to 
led  white 
thit.     It 
es  of  the 
shale  on 
a  similar 
nd  in  the 

ce  where 

0  replace 
a  whitish 
but  some 
tter  inter- 

1  are  from 


81 


83 


82 


83 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOOICAL  NOTICES.  281 

In  a  note*  I  have  mentioned  the  most  remarkable  sections 
fO^ihis  formation  whioh  occur  on  the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie. 

*  Section  I. 

The  section  of  the  bank  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bear  Lake  River  is  as  foUowi, 
beginning  with  the  lowest  bed:— 
Gravel,  with  thin  layers  of  sand  rising  from  the  water's 

edge  in  a  perpendicular  cliff,  to  the  height  of      -        -  30  feet 
Lignite  (70  to  80  and  84)        -        .        .        .        .        .    i 
Potter's  clay  of  a  bluish  gray  colour,  alternating 

with  layers  of  sand --40 

A  sloping  uneven  brow,  covered  with  soil,  extends  - 

to  the  summit  of  the  bank  -        -        -        .        _  go 

91 

Lydian  stone  is  the  most  abundant,  and  whitish  quartz  the  least  so  of  the 
pebbles  mentioned  in  the  text  as  entering  into  the  composition  of  the  gravel. 
A  little  farther  up  the  Mackenzie,  this  bed  of  gravel  passes  into  sand, 
which,  m  some  spots,  has  sufficient  coherence  to  merit  for  it  the  name 
of  sandstone.  During  a  great  part  even  of  the  summer  season,  all  the 
beds  of  sand  are  frozen  into  a  hard  eandstone;  but  a  piece  having  been 
broken  off  and  put  into  the  pocket,  speedily  thawed  into  sand. 
Specimens  of  the  clay,  which  I  have  denominated  potter's  clay,  taken 
from  near  the  beds  of  lignite,  have  a  colour  intermediate  between  yellowish- 
gray  and  clove-brown,  a  dull  earthy  fracture,  and  a  slightly  greasy  feel.  It 
IS  not  gritty  under  the  knife,  and  acquires  a  slightly  shining  smooth  surface, 
adheres  slightly  to  the  tongue,  and,  when  moistened  with  water,  assumes  a 
darker  colour,  and  becomes  plastic. 

Section  IL 

About  five  miles  above  Bear  Lake  River,  the  cliff 
consists  of  Slaty  sandstone  evidently  composed  of  the  same 
materials  with  the  friable  kinds  described  in  the  text,  but 
having  tenacity  enough  to  form  a  building  stone.  It  in- 
closes some  seams  of  lignite    -        -        -        -        -        .  lo  feet 

Lignite 4^ 

Clay  and  Sand        ----...,50 
frregularslopefrom  top  of  cliff  to  summit  of  bank   -        -90 

1541, 
Section  III. 

A  little  farther  up  the  river  than  the  preceding  :— 

85  Pipe-clay  on  a  level  with  the  water         ....    1  foot 

86  Lignite  .        .        -        -        .        .        .        _.j 

90  Potter's  clay 14  feet 

87  Pipe-clay j  foot 

o9  Lignite  --.......j 

81  Potter's  clay 10  feet 

Lignite 1  foot 

Sandstone 8  feet 

Lignite 2i 

Potter's  clay 10 

3G 


282 


APPENDIX, 


The  deoth  of  the  formation  was  not  ascertained,  but  the  sec- 
Si^  w¥  show  the  thickness  of  the  beds  wh.ch  were  exposed. 


94  Friable  sandstone  and  clay  - 
Sandstone  a  little  more  durable 
Sloping  Summit     -        -        - 


.  20  feet 

-  12 

-  40 


12U 


The  pipe-clay,  when  taken  "-jy  ^^  ^jL^^^^j^w^^^^^^^^^ 
little  grittines8,and  when  chewed  for  a  little  t^';^^;'^^"™?;^^  ^-^^  hardness  of 
not  unpleasant  taste.     When  dried  in  the  air  "  ^c^^i^'^f,        .  .^      ^,j^^ 
chalk,  adheres  to  the  tongue,  and  has  the  appearance  of  the  whiter  Kma 
of  English  pipe-clay,  but  is  more  meagre. 


Section  IV. 

A  little  above  the  preceding  :— 
A  precipitous  bank  of  gravel  -        -        - 

Lignite  and  clay,  the  beds  concealed  by  debris^ 
Friable  sandstone  -        -        '        "        ' 

Height  of  the  cliff     - 
Section  V. 


-  12  feet 

-  40 

-  30 

-  82 


have  a  dip  of  sixty  degrees  to  the  southward. 


98  Bed,  No.  1  Porcelain  clay       -        -     ."        " 

2  Potter's  clay  slightly  bituminous  "  . 

3  Thin-slaty  lignite,  with  two  seams  of  clay-iron 
101  stone,  an  inch  thick       -        -         -        -         - 

4  Pipe  clay,  (nine  inches)  -        -        -        - 

5  Porcelain  clay        ---"'" 

6  Bituminous  clay  '  ,  c  ' 

7  Lignite,  with  a  conchoidal  fracture 

8  Pipe  clay       """""*        I 

9  Porcelain  clay       ---"-" 

10  Bituminous  clay    -        ','./, 

11  Lignite,  earthy  paste,  enclosing  fibrous 
ments  -----' 

12  Porcelain  earth         -         -         -         - 

13  Bituminous  clay       -        -        "        " 

14  Porcelain  earth  -        -         -         - 


99 

100, 

104 

105 
106 

107 

110 


frag- 


\ 


2  yards 


2i 
i 

3 

3 

2 
i 

3 

3 

2 


31  yards. 

The  three  last  beds  it  is  probable,  once  inclosed  «^^^«j[;°J^^*;;,t£r 
been  consumed,  but  the  quantity  of  debris  P[7«"  ^'^J'^'^^^^"'"  ^"""^ 
ccrtained  satisfactorily  during  the  hurried  visit  I  paid  to  them. 

Over  these  inclined  beds  there  is  a  shelving  an\f  "™^J>"S  cl  f  « 
108    sand  and  clay  covered  by  a  sloping  bunk  of  vegetable  earth    A   ay 
^         of  peat  at  the  summit  has  a  thin  slaty  structure,  and  prcBents  altoge 
ther,  except  in  colour  and  lustre,  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  shaly  hgmte. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


283 


The  height  above  the  sea  of  the  summit  of  the  banks  it  forms 
on  the  Mackenzie,  was  estimated  to  be  from  two  hundred  and 
fifty  to  three  hundred  feet. 

NOTICES  OF  OTHER  LIGNITE  FORMATIONS. 

Similar  formations  of  lignite  occur  near  the  foot  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  range  farther  to  the  southward ;  but  I  have 
not,  after  many  inquiries,  heard  of  any  traces  of  them  in  the 
eastern  parts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  lands.     Sir  Alexander  Mac- 
kenzie, after  describing  the  general  course  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, says  that  "along  their  eastern  edge,  there  occurs  a 
narrow  strip  of  marshy,  boggy,  and  uneven  ground,  which 
produces  coal  and  bitumen ;"  and  that  "  he  saw  these  on  the 
banks  of  the  Mackenzie  in  lat.  66°,  and,  in  his  second  journey, 
on  the  Peace  River,  in  lat.  56°  and  146°  W.  long;"  and  fur- 
ther, that  "  the  same  was  observed  by  Mr.  Fidler,  on  the  south 
branch  of  the  Saskatchewan,  in  lat.  52°  long.  112i°  W."  Mr. 
Alexander  Stewart,  an  intelligent  chief  factor  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  and  well  acquainted  with  those  countries,  in- 
forms me  that  there  are  beds  of  coal  on  fire,  on  the  Smoking 
River,  or  east  branch  of  the  Peace  P'     r,  and  on  the  upper 
parts  of  the  Rivitre  la  biche^  or  Elk  River ;  and  that  coal,  al- 
though not  on  fire,  occurs  at  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  on  a  line  with 
the  other  two  localities.    Mr.  Small,  a  clerk  to  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  likewise  acquaints  me,  that  coal  occurs  at  Ed- 
monton, on  the  north  branch  of  the  Saskatchewan,  in  beds, 
sometimes  seven  or  eight  feet  thick.     Most  of  the  coal  is  thin-^ 
slaty  ;  but  some  beds  yield  shining,  thick  lumps,  which  break, 
as  he  expresses  it,  like  Spanish  liquorice.     It  lies  over  beds  of 
bluish-gray  sandstone,  and  is  associated  with  a  white  clay, 
which  froths  in  water  and  adheres  to  the  fingers.  *' 

104,  98.  The  substance  composing  beds  Nob.  1  and  5,  which  I  have  de- 
nominated Porcelain  clay,  has  a  fine,  granular  texture,  and  the  appearance 
of  some  varieties  of  chalk.  It  adheres  slightly  to  the  tongue,  yields  readily 
to  the  nail,  is  meagre,  and  soils  the  fingers  slightly.  There  are  many  specks 
of  coaly  matter  disseminated  through  it,  and  some  minute  scales  of  mica, 
and  perhaps  of  quartz.  When  moistened  with  water,  it  becomes  more  fri- 
able, and  is  not  plastic.    It  does  not  effervesce  with  acids. 

Bod  No.  9  is  the  same  mineral  that  forms  beds  1  and  5 ;  but  it  has  a  grayer 
colour  from  the  greater  quantity  of  coaly  particles,  and  its  structure  is 
slightly  slaty. 

The  bituminous  clay  of  bed  No.  6,  has  a  thick-slaty  structure,  a  grayish- 
black  colour,  and  a  shining  resinous  streak.  It  is  sectile,  but  does  not  yield 
to  the  nail.  Fieces  of  lignite  occur  imbedded  in  it,  and  it  is  traversed  by 
fibrous  ramifications  of  carbonaceous  matter. 

Rnanimana     1  1  C      IK}      117      11Q      110     -  .•«    ^r  .■..kcfsnnna   oH«>a<)     Kn    y..v_«..4 

with  beds  of  burning  coal. 


284 


APPENDIX. 


Mr.  Drummond  brought  specimens  from  the  spot  which 
Mr.  Small  alludes  to  and  remarks,  that  the  lignite  occurs  in 
beds  from  six  inches  to  two  feet  thick,  separated  by  clay  and 
sandstones.     His  specimens  of  the  lignite 
1051,  1052,  1053    are  precisely  similar  to  the  slaty  and  con- 
choidal  varieties,  which  occur  at  the  mouth 
1055     of  the  Bear  Lake  River;  and  there  is  an  equal  resem- 
blance betwixt  the  sandstones  from  the  two  places. 
1053     The  slaty  beds  of  lignite,  at  Edmonton,  pass  into  a  thin, 
slaty,  friable  sandstone,  much  impregnated  by  carbona- 
ceous matter,  and  containing  pieces  of  fibrous 
1056,   1062     lignite.     In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lignite 
there  are  some  beds  of  rather  indurated,  but 
highly    bituminous    shale,  and    the    clayey    banks    contain 
clay-iron  stones,  in  form  of  septaria.    Mr.  Drummond  like- 
wise found  beds  of  a  beautiful  bituminous  goal,  which  Pro- 
fessor Buckland,  from  its  peculiar  fracture,  considers  to  be 
tertiary  pitch-coal.    The  banks  of  the  Saskatchewan,  near  the 
same  place,  exhibit  beds  of  a  very  compact  stone,  having  a 
brown  colour,  and  inclosing  many  fragments  of  bituminous 
limestone  and  some  organic  remains ;  like- 
1058,  1059,  1060    wise  beds  of  a  somewhat  similar  stone,  but 
full  of  drusy  cavities,  and  more  resembling 
a  recent  calcareous  tufa.  I  could  not  learn  how  far  these  beds 
were  connected  with  the  lignite  deposit. 

Captain  Franklin*  saw  beds  of  lignite  and  tertiary  pitch- 
coal  at  Garry's  Island,  off  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie, 
and  there  is  an  extensive  deposit  of  it  near  the  Babbage  River, 
on  the  coast  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  opposite  to  the  termination  of 
the  Richardson  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

MAciViENZIE  RIVER  FROM  SLAVE  LAKE  TO  THE  BASE  OF 
THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

Having  now  described  the  strata  in  Bear  Lake  River,  to- 
gether with  the  exposed  beds  of  the  lignite  at  its  mouth,  as  far 
as  opportunities  of  observation  enable  me,  and  also  added  a 
slight  account  of  similar  formation  which  occupy  a  like  situa- 
tion at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  range,  were  I  to  adapt 
the  order  of  my  notices  strictly  to  the  route  of  the  expedition, 
1  should  next  describe  the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie  from  the 
junction  of  the  Bear  Lake  River  downwards  to  the  Arctic 
Sea,    It  seems,  however,  more  advisable  to  commence  at  the 


'■  See  rage  50  of  the  Narrative. 


t  which 
>ccur8  in 
clay  and 
e  lignite 
tnd  con- 
le  mouth 
il  resem- 
I  places, 
to  a  thin, 
carbona- 
f  fibrous 
e  lignite 
Lted,  but 
contain 
)nd  like- 
lich  Pro- 
rs  to  be 
near  the 
having  a 
luminous 
ins ;  like- 
tone,  but 
sembling 
lese  beds 

iry  pitch- 
ickenzie, 
^e  River, 
nation  of 


BASE  OF 


tliver,  to- 
ith,  as  far 

added  a 
ike  situa- 

to  adapt 
cpedition, 
from  the 
ie  Arctic 
tee  at  the 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  285 

Origin  of  the  Mackenzie,  in  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  give  as 
o?Zt  gta7nVe"  "  '  ''"  ''  *'^  P""^'^^*  S^^'^^ical  features 
The  west  end  of  Slave  Lake  is  bounded  by  horizontal  strata 
ot  a  hmetone,  whose  characters  shall  be  ailcrwards  given  in 
detail ;  and  I  have  merely  to  remark,  at  present,  that  it  forms 
flat  shores,  vyhich  are  skirted  by  shoals  of  boulders  of  limestone, 

fhf      rK""*'""^  !?^^''     ^""'^  ^"^t  ^■•^"ber  is  accumulated  in 
the  small  bays  at  this  end  of  the  lake,  which,  in  process  of  time, 

PvfTr    K?  •"*?  ^  '"^'*"""^  '''^^  P^^t-     A  cl^ain  of  islands 
extends  obliquely  across  the  lake  at  the  orJLnn  of  the  river 
or  where  the  current  is  first  felt;  and  the  depth  of  the  wate^ 

termed  the  frst  htle  lake,  and  the  river  afterwards  contracts 
toj  less  than  a  mile  m  breadth ;  forming  in  one  place,  when 

tZlf  ''  T'  l'i'°"S  u^'Pi'^-  ^  ^^^°»d  dilatation  about 
twenty^ve  miles  below  the  first,  is  termed  the  second  little 
la/ce,  Ihe  shores  throughout  this  distance  are  generally  flat 
and  covered  with  boulders  of  limestone,  compact  felspar, 
granite,  gneiss,  and  sienite,  and  there  are  many  of  these  stones 
imbedded  m  a  tenacious  clay,  which  forms  the  beach  A 
ridge,  having  an  even  outline,  and  apparently  of  small  eleva- 
tion, comnaences  behind  Stony  Point,  in  Slave  Lake,  some 
distance  inland,  and,  running  nearly  parallel  to  the  river  dis- 
appears about  Fishing  River,  a  stream  which  joins  the  Mac- 
kenzie, below  the  Second  Little  Lake.  The  Horn  Mountains, 
a  ridge  of  hills,  of  considerably  greater  elevation,  and  havinu' 
a  more  varied  outline  than  that  on  the  south  shore,  are  first  vi- 
sible on  the  north  side  of  the  Second  Little  Lake,  and  con- 
tinue in  sight  nearly  as  far  as  the  junction  of  the  «  River  of  the 
Mountains,"  or  "Forks,  of  the  Mackenzie,"  as  the  traders 

1  on     •^'"?,    u  r^*""  l^  *^^  *'^°  "^^••^-     The  only  rocks  seen 

120  msitu  between  Slave  Lake  and  the  Forks,  were  a  bitu- 

1 21  minous  shale  of  a  brownish-black  colour,  in  thin  slates 

.= ,  n"  fu  u?"""'^.^  ^^^  P"''^  yellowish-gray  colour,  which! 
as  well  as  the  bituminous  shale,  forms  steep  banks. 

ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

About  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  below  the  forks,  the  first 
view  IS  obtained  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  there  appear 
to  consist  of  short-conical  peaks,  scarcely  rising  two  thousand 
teet  above  the  river.  Some  distance  lower  down,  the  river 
changing  ita  course  from  W.N.W.  to  N  N  E  turns  ch-^rpH' 
round  the  mountains,  which  are  there  disposed  in  ridge8,"hav- 


is 


286 


APPENDIX. 


ine  bases  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  and  a  direction  of  S.S.W. 
or  S  W.  by  S.  being  nearly  at  right  angles  to  the  general  course 
of  the  great  range  to  which  they  belong.  The  eastern  sides 
of  the  ridges  present  a  succession  of  wall-sided  precipices,  hav- 
ing  beneath  them  shslving  acclivities  formed  by  debris,  and 
exhibiting  on  their  faces  regular  lines  of  stratihcation  Ihe 
western  sides  of  the  ridges  are  of  more  easy  ascent.  Ihe  val- 
lies  which  separate  these  ridges  and  open  successively  to  the 
river,  are  narrow,  with  pretty  level  bottoms,  but  very  steep 
sides  well  clothed  with  trees.  Tn  the  farst  ridge,  the  strata 
seemed  to  dip  to  the  northward  at  an  angle  of  33°.  In  some 
of  the  others  they  were  horizontal,  or  had  a  southerly  dip. 
The  third  ridge  presents,  when  viewed  from  the  westward,  a 
magnificent  precipice,  seemingly  about  one  thousand  two  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  which  extends  for  at  least  fifteen  nriiles.* 
After  passing  this  ridge,  the  river  inclines  to  the  eastward,  and 
the  forms  of  the  hills  are  less  distinctly  seen. 

As  I  could  not  visit  the  Rocky  Mountains,  I  know  nothing 
of  their  structure  except  from  report  An  interpreter  m  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  service,  who  had  travelled  over  them, 
informed  me  that  there  are  fourteen  or  fifteen  ridges,  of  which 
the  three  easternmost  are  the  most  rugged,  those  that  succeed 
being  broader  and  more  rounded.     This  man  gave  me  a 

122  specimen  of  a  pearl-gray  semi-opal,  resembling  obsidian, 
brought  from  the  third  or  fourth  ridge.    1  he  natives,  by 

means  of  fire,  cause  this  stone  to  break  off  m  thin,  flat,  con- 

choidal  fragments,  with  which  they  form  arrow-heads  and 

knives     The  thin  pieces  are  nearly  transparent  on  the  edges. 

He  also  gave  me  a  specimen  of  plumbago,  from  the  same 

123  quarter,  and  some  specular  iron. 

Mr.  Macpherson,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  a 
letter  respecting  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  Fort  auLiard,  on 
he  River  of  iht  Mountains,  or  south  branch  of  the  Mackenzie, 
informs  me,  that  "  these  mountains  may  be  traced  >nto  some- 
what uniform  ranges,  extending  north-westerly  and  south-east- 
Trlv,  nearly  parallel  with  the  River  of  the  Mountains,  and  are 
in  appearance  confusedly  scattered  and  broken,  rising  here  and 
there  into  high  peaks."  This  gentleman  had  the  kindness  to 
send  me  specimens  of  a  cherty  rock,  some  of  which, 

124  P5     he  states,  were  from  the  third  range  westward  horn 
'    "      the  river,  and  others  from  a  q)ur  which  projects  in 

a  southern  direction  from  the  fourth  range,  and  rises  about  six 
hundred  feet  above  the  adjacent  valley.  These  specimens 
cannot  be  distinguished  from  those  of  Limestone  Point,  on  the 
north  shore  of  Great  Bear  Lake,  (noticed  m  page  ^2b/.j 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


587 


Mounts  Fitton  and  Conybeare,  two  remarkable  peaks  which 
terminate  the  Eastern  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the 
shores  of  the  Arctic  sea,  were  found  by  Captain  FrankHn  to 
consist  of  transition  rocks,  of  which  an  account  is  given  in  the 
subjoined  note.* 

*  List  of  gpocimons,  collected  by  Captain  Franklin,  on  the  Bea-coast,  to 
the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie. 

From  Mount  Fiiton  in  the  Richardson  Chain. 

344  Grauwacke-slate  in  columnar  concrotion8,dotached  from  the  rocky  strata 
by  an  Esquimaux. 

348  Grauwacke-slate,  resembling  the  preceding,  from   the  same  place. 

Used  by  the  Esquimaux  as  a  whetstone. 
345,  346  Globular  balls  of  dark,  blackish -gray,  splintery  limestone,  and  of 

flinty-slate,  traversed  by  minute  veins  of  calc-spar.    Picked  up  at  the 

base  of  the  mountain. 
347  Worn  pebbles  of  quartz,  lydian  stone,  splintery  limestone,  aud  grau- 

waoke,  from  the  same  spot. 

349  Fine-grained,  mountain-green   clay-slate,  approaching  to  potstone; 

quarried  by  the  Esquimaux  in  the  Cupola  Mountain  of  the  same 
chain,  and  used  to  form  utensils. 

350  Rock-crystal  from  the  same  chain  of  mountains. 

'         From  the  beach  between  Point  Sabine  and  Point  King. 

351  Brown-coal,  woody  structure  scarcely  perceptible.    There  are  beds  of 

this  coal  in  the  earthy  cliffs  where  the  party  was  encamped  on  the 
13th  and  14th  July  near  Point  King. 

352  Clay-iron  stone,  forming  boulders  in  the  channels  of  the  rills,  which  cut 

the  earthy  banks  containing  coal. 
353,  354  Pitch-coal,  having  a  fibrous  structure  and  a  very  beautiful  fracture, 
presenting  a  congeries  of  circles.  (This  coal  was  recognised  by  Pro- 
fessor Buckland  to  be  a  tertiary  pitch-coal,  and  is  precisely  similar  to 
specimens  brought  from  the  upper  branches  of  the  Saskatchewan,  by 
Mr.  Drummond  :  see  page  284.)  The  specimen  was  picked  up  from 
the  gravelly  beach  at  the  mouth  of  the  Babbage  River. 

355  Greenish-gray  limestone,  with  a  somewhat  earthy  granular  aspect ;  con- 

taining shells  which  Mr.  Sowbery  considers  to  be  very  like  the  cyclas 
medius  of  the  Sussex  weald-clay.     Picked  up  at  the  same  place  with 
the  preceding  specimen. 
Captain  Franklin  remarks,  that  "  the  Babbage  flows  between  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Richardson  Chain,  and  that  there  were  no  solid  strata  nor  any 
large  boulders  near  its  mouth.    The  gravel  consisted  of  pebbles  of  red  and 
white  sandstone,  slaty  limestone,  greenstone,  and  porphyry,  much  worn  by 
attrition." 

Prom  Mount  Conybcare,  in  the  Buckland  Chain. 

356  Greenish-gray  grauwacke  slate,  (resembling  No.  348,)  with  specks  of 

effervescent  carbonate  of  lime.  The  surfaces  of  the  slates  exhibit  in- 
terspersed scales  of  mica.  The  specimens  were  broken  from  the  sum- 
mit of  Mount  Conybearc,  at  the  western  extreme  of  the  Buckland 
Chain :  latitude  69°  27',  longitude  139°  53'  west. 
358  Fine-grained  grauwacke-slate  in  columnar  concretions,  from  the  same 
place  with  specimen  356. 

357  Grauwacko-slato,  in  thick  slaty  columnar  concretions,  besprinkled  with 


288 


APPKNDIX. 


Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  towards  the  conclusion  of  the  in- 
teresting narrative  of  his  voyages,  says,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
ran^e,  "  The  last  line  of  division  is,  the  immense  ridge,  or  suc- 
cession of  ridges  of  the  stony  mountains,  whose  northern  ex- 
tremity dips  in  the  Arctic  Sea  in  latitude  70°  north,  and  longi- 
tude 136°  west,  running  nearly  south-east,  and  begins  to  be 
parallel  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  ocean  from  Cook's  inlet, 
and  so  onwards  to  the  Columbia.  From  thence  it  appears  to 
ouit  the  coast,  but  still  continuing  with  less  elevation  to  divide 
tne  waters  of  the  Atlantic  from  those  of  the  Pacific.    In  these 


scales  of  mica.  Taken  from  a  bed  about  the  middle  of  Mount  Cony- 
beare.  The  resemblance  of  this  etono  to  that  of  Mount  Fitton  (No. 
344)  is  very  remarkable. 

360  Similar  rock  to  358,  with  an  adhering  portion  of  a  vein  of  crystallized 
quartz,  and  on  ono  side  a  bit  of  bluish-gray  elate.  From  the  middle 
of  Mount  Conybearo. 

359  Columnar  concretion  of  a  slaty  rock,  like  356,  but  more  quartzose,  break- 
ing into  rhomboidal  fragments.  From  the  middle  of  Mount  Cony- 
beare. 

361,  362  Grauwacko-slato,  with  a  thin  adhering  vein  of  carbonate  of  lime 
and  numerous  particles  of  disseminated  mica.  From  the  middle  of 
Mount  Conybearo. 

363  Bluish-gray  grauwacko-slatc,  resembling  Nos.  348  and  344.     From  the 

Upper  Terrace,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Conybearo. 

364  Dark-bluish  gray  and  very  fine-grained  grauwacko-slato,  with  a  glim- 

mering lustre,  traversed  by  a  vein  of  quartz.     From  the  same  place. 

365  A  thick-slaty  angular  concretion  of  a  very  quartzose  grauwacke-slate, 

(similar  to  Nos.  348  and  358,)  decomposed  on  the  surface  and  break- 
ing into  rhomboidal  fragments.    From  the  middle  Terrace  at  the 
base  of  Mount  Conybearo. 
3G6  A  somewhat  rhomboidal  portion  of  flinty-slate,  apparently  part  of  a  bed. 
From  the  Lower  Terrace  of  Mount  Conybeare,  which  is  composed  of 
this  rock.     The  terrace  is  ten  miles  distant  from  the  sea-coast,  and 
the  intervening  ground  is  swampy. 
The  wliolc  scries  of  specimens  from  Mount  Conybearo,  (Nos.  356  to  366,) 
appear  to  belong  to  transition  rocks ;  and  the  continuity  of  the  formation 
with  that  of  Mount  Fitton  is  rendered  probable,  both  by  the  resemblance  of 
the  specimens  and  the  geographical  situation  of  the  mountains. 

Captain  Franklin  saw  no  rocks,  in  silu,  on  the  coast  to  the  westward  of 
the  Richardson  Chain;  but  ho  gathered  boulders  of  the  following  rocks  from 
the  bed  of  the  Net-setting  Rivulet,  which  flows  from  the  British  Chain  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  falls  into  the  Arctic  Sea,  between  Sir  P.  Malcolm 
River  and  Backhouse  River. 

367  Greenstone;  368,  yellowish-gray  sandstone;  369,  dark-coloured  splin- 
tery-limestone;  370,  371,  372,  dolomite;  373,  quartzose  sandstone, 
like  the  old  red  sandstone;  374,  grauwacke-slate ;  375,  quartz  and 
iron  pyrites. 
Boulders  of  the  under-mentioned  rocks  were  gatliered  on  Flaxman  Islaild. 
378  Fine-grained,  greenish  clay-slate,  obviously  of  primitive  rock,  abundant 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  supposed  to  have  been  brought  down  by 
the  rivulets  which  flow  from  tlio  llomanzolf  Chain.     379,  quartz. 
376  and  377  were  from  Foggy  Island,  and  are  rolled epecinicus  of  flinty-blate ; 
one  of  them  contauiing  corallines. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOOICAL  NOTICES.  289 

snoNy-clad  mountains  rises  the  Mississippi,  if  we  admit  the  Mis- 
souri  to  be  IS  source,  which  flows  into  the  Guiph  of  Mexico : 

riv.rZf^^^'K^'  ""^'^i*  t^-""'^ '"  ""^''^"'^  fi^y ;  Mackenzie's 
river  that  discharges  itself  into  the  North  Sea,  ind  the  Colum- 

bia  emptying  itseU^into  the  Paciac  Ocean.  The  breadth  of  the 
mountains  from  Cook's  inlet  to  the  Columbia  is  from  four  to 
HnlL  ?^T  T^^'}y'''  J  may  add,  that  the  great  rivers  men- 
tioned  bv  Mackenzie  not  only  take  their  origin  from  the  same 
range  of  mountains,  but  almost  from  the  same  hill;  the  head 
waters  of  the  Columbia  and  Mackenzie  being  only  about  two 
hundred  yards  apart  in  latitude  54^.  Mr.  t)rummond,  who 
crossed  the  mountains  at  that  place,  informs  me,  that  the  East- 
ern  side  of  the  range  consists  of  conglomerate  and  sandstone, 
to  which  succeed  limestone  hills  exceedingly  barren,  and  after- 
wards  clay-slate  and  granite. 

James,  the  intelligent  naturalist,  who  accompanied  Maior 
Long  on  his  first  expedition,  says  of  the  Rocky 'Mountains  to 
the  southward  of  the  Missoun,  "  They  rise  abruptly  out  of  the 
plains  which  lie  extended  at  their  base  on  the  east  side  tower- 
ing into  peaks  of  great  height,  which  renders  them  visible  at 
ttie  distance  of  more  than  one  hundred  miles  from  their  base 
rhey  consist  of  ridges,  knobs,  and  peaks,  variously  disposed! 
among  which  are  interspersed  many  broad  and  fertile  valleys 
James  s  peak,  one  of  the  more  elevated,  was  ascertain.»d  by 
trigonometrical  measurement  to  rise  8500  feet  above  the  coni- 
nion  level.    The  rocky  formations  are  uniformly  of  a  primitive 
character,  but  a  deep  crust  of  secondary  rocks  appears  to  re- 
cline on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains,  exten^ng  upwards 
from  their  base  many  hundred  feet."    In  another  place,  he 
says,  "  The  woodless  plain  is  terminated  by  a  range  of  naked 
and  almost  perpendicular  rocks,  visible  at  the  distance  of  seve- 
ral miles,  and  resembling  a  vast  wall  parallel  to  the  base  of  the 
mountain.    These  rocks  are  sandstone,  and  rise  abruptly  to  an 
elevation  of  one  hundredand  fifty  or  two  hundred  feet ''  The 
sandstone  walls  seem  to  present  an  appearance  not  very  dissi- 
milar to  some  of  the  cliffs  seen  from  the  Mackenzie. 

Having  thus  mentioned  as  briefly  as  I  could  the  extent  of 
the  information  1  was  able  to  collect,  respecting  the  Rocky 
Mountain  range,  I  may  remark,  that  a  formation  of  primitive 
rocks,  but  little  elevated  above  the  general  level  of  the  coun- 
try, appears  to  run  from  near  the  west  end  of  Lake  Superior 
gradually  and  slightly  converging  towards  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, until  it  attains  the  east  side  of  Great  Bear  Lake.  In  lat 
50°,  the  two  ranges  are  nearly  seven  hundred  miles  apart,  and 

37 


1 


m 


390 


API'KNDIX. 


there,  and  as  far  m  lat.  G0°,  the  space  between  them  is  i|rinci. 
paly  occupied  by  horizontal  strata  of  limestone    1  hi^re-^U^ 
much  limestone  m  the  narrower  interval  north  of  GO  ,  but  the 
Sa  armore  inclined,  .nd  form  abrupt  hills  and  ndges,  par- 
ifu  irrabout  lat.  GG%  where  the  primitive  rocks  o..  the  east 
of  BeaJ  Lake  are  within  two  hundred  m.les  ot  the  Kocky 
Mountains.  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  ^as  noUced  U^^^ 
of  great  lakes  skirts  this  eastern  range  of  prim  tive  •'ocks,  wUc  c 
they  are  approached  by  the  Hat  hmestonc  strata  winch  he  to 
west  of  them     Thus  the  primitive  rocks  bound  Great  b  ave 
Lake    o  the  eastward  of  Slave  River,  and  the  flat  hmcstone 
[Jrata  Occupy  The  country  westward  of  that  lake,  as  has  been 

'^Tfttr'iJgrt ion,  which  seemed  necessary  for  the  pur- 
pofe  of  giving  a  general  idea  of  the  structure  ot  the  country,  1 
Kn  to  Ihe^description  of  the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie. 


120 
127 


MACKENZIE  RIVER  FROM  T"E  HRST  SIG„T  OF  THE  ROCKY 
MOUNTAINS  TO  BEAR  LAKL  RIVER. 

At  the  sharp  turn  of  the  river  round  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
its  els  bank  swells  gently  into  a  hill  several  feet  high.  Below 
thisJhe  banks  are  broken  into  conical  masses  by  ravmes  and 
present  a  finely  variegated  outline.    A  pretty  high  ndge,  look- 
Kke  a  continuation  of  the  Horn  Mountain,  is  visible  on  the 
east  sWe  some  distance  inland.     Opposite  to  the  Big  Island 
there  is  a  green  hill  three  or  four  hundred  feet  high,  which,  as 
we  descended  the  river,  showed  itself  to  be  part  of  a  range 
UiathS  a  direction  apparently  to  the  N.N.W.,  and  towards 
ts  northern  end  becaSie  mor/  rugged  and  craggy,  exhibitnig 
cHlTs  and  rude  embrasures,  at  the  same  time  increasing  in  height 
?o  dght  hundred  or  one  thousand  feet.     The  boulders  on  the 
beaT  change  their  character  considerably  about  this  place. 
Farther  up,  the  yellowish-white  limestone  which  occurs  m 
Slave  Lake  formed  a  great  portion  of  them ;  but  here  a  green- 
ish gray,  and  rather  dark-colourcd,  compact  limestone,  with  a 
flat  conchoidal  fracture,  replaces  it.     Variegated-sand  tone 
and  some  purplish,  felspathose-sandstone,  or  compact  felspar, 
a^so^cur^>retty  frequently,  together  with  slaty  hmestonc, 
bituminous-shale,  lydian-stonc,  pitchstonc-porphyry,  and  va- 
rious  sienities,  granites,  and   greenstones,   almost   all   por- 
phyritic. 


131 

132 


princi- 
is  also 
but  the 
c»,  par- 
he  cast 
Rocky 
a  chain 
,  where 
h  lie  to 
it  Slave 
[nestonc 
as  beeu 

the  pur- 
)untry,  I 
ic. 


2  ROCKY 


ountains, 
1.  Below 
incs,  and 
3gc,  look- 
)lc  on  the 
5ig  Island 
which,  as 
if  a  range 
I  towards 
exhibiting 
s,  in  height 
crs  on  the 
his  place, 
occurs  in 
e  a  grcen- 
ne,  with  a 
sandstone, 
ict  felspar, 
limestone, 
r,  and  va- 
t  all   por- 


TOPOORAnilCAL  AND  OEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  291 

llmrircc!.?iVh^''^"''^'>'^^  ''»"t  Bolid  strata 

te  Forks  It  i  ""'"^fjate  banks  of  the  river  after  passing 
w^^h  a  slL  If  '■''""'*  '''"/'^^'"  "''^"^  *^^^  ^""^'-^^^  feet  high, 
S  L    hi Ih  il'TTl'^^  A  precipice   three  hSn- 

urea  ictt  high,  washed  by  the  river,  is  composed  of  strata  of 

Z^    "'\.^'PP'"S  N.W.  by  W.  at  In  angie^of  TQo.  but  the 

Z:^eLr''  °'  ^  '^'•ir^?  '"  applaraice  the  saddle! 
lormed  arrangement.     The  limestone  is  of  a  blackish- 

rapid  and  rionM^^^^^^^^^^  P""*^'?^*  ^'^'  •"  t^^  hills  at  the 

to  hvo  feot  lh?.^       ?'"■  k^^^  ^^'^^•*-     '*«  h^^«  ^'•e  ffO'n  one 

spar     Thorp      ' '"?  """'^  intersected  by  small  veins  of  calc 

t  ick   whi.  h  f     ""  --^'^^  sonie  larger  veins  a  foot  and  a  half 

edwittr.  "''""'"  ^\\'^'^^^  ^'^'•^"^•^  »^^^'"g  their  sides 

rvn„  m    i'Pf'  '"V^"''"  V-^'""'  ^"'^^  with  transparent 

gypsum.  I  observed  a  small  mibcdded  pebble  of  white 

sandstone  in  the  gypsum.  Some  of  the  beds  of  limestone 

Iv^nt  ^?  fif  "^  Y  i-"^  concretions.  A  small  island 
Jying  ofj  this  rock,  having  its  strata  dipping  south  at  an 
angle  of  20^  presents  a  Sed  a  foot  tia,lntirel7com" 
posed  01  these  angular  concretions,  covered  by  a  thin- 
s  aty  limestone,  and  reposing  on  thicker  beds,  all  of  which 
are  dark-coloured.     No  organic  remains  were  observed 

A  fevv  miles  below  the  «  Rock  by  the  river  side,"  a  very 
rugged  ndge  appears  on  the  eastern  bank.  It  has  sharp  craZ 
gy  summi  s,  and  is  about  five  or  six  hundred  feet  high     For 

liT  {  "!5  ^  r''"".  ^"'^^  ^^'^  P'^^«  the  river  continues  abou[ 
eight  hundred  yards  wide,  bounded  by  banks  chiefly  of  clay  • 
but  in  some  places  of  a  clayey  shale  having  a  bluish  colour 
lie  banks  are  m  many  places  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  hieh* 
with  a  beach  beneath  covered  with  boulders.  A  little  abovp 
the  site  of  the  Old  Fort  Norman  the  river  dilates  and  is  full 

rhrt  H^f  ""^K^  u'^- ''  y'^y  •"'«"^'  «»  the  east  side,  stands 
Clark's  Hill,  which  ,s  visible  from  Fort  Franklin,  and  is  sup! 
posed  to  be  near  1500  feet  high.  It  is  shaped  somewhat  lik^e 
the  amphibohc-granite  mountain  of  Criffel  in  Galloway,  and 
in  Its  immediate  neighbourhood  there  are  some  less  lofty,  but 
very  rugged  and  precipitous  hills,  resembling  in  outline  the 
ndges  of  limestone  on  Bear  Lake  River.  From  this  place  to 
the  commencement  of  the  lignite  formation,  already  described, 
the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie  are  high  and  clayey 


120 
127 

131 
132 


292 


APP&KDIX. 


MACKENZIE  RIVER  FROM  BEAR  LAKE  RIVER  TO  THE 

NARROWS. 

Below  Bear  Lake  River  the  general  course  of  the  Mac- 
kenzie for  eighty  miles  is  about  N.}V.  by  W  ,  when  aremark- 
able  rapid  is  produced  by  ledges  of  stone  which  cross  its  chan- 
nel     The  width  cf  the  river  varies  in  this  distance  from  one 
to  three  miles,  but  the  watei-course  is  narrowed  by  numerous 
islands,  and  the  current  continues  strong.    The  Rocky  Moun- 
tains are  visible,  running  in  a  direction  from  S.E.  to  r^.vv. 
Judging  merely  by  the  eye,  we  did  not  estimate  their  altitude 
above  four  thousand  feet,  and  I  may  remark,  that  the  snow 
disappears  from  their  summits  eariy  in  the  summer.    A  bacK 
view  of  the  hill  at  the  mouth  of  Bear  Lake  River  is  also  ob- 
tained for  upwards  of  twenty  miles,  but  the  ndge  of  which  it 
forms  a  part  curves  inland,  probably  uniting,  as  was  formerly 
rema"ked  with  the  one  which  crosses  Bear  Lake  River  near 
the  middle  of  its  course.    The  banks  of  the  Mackenzie  are  in 
general  from  one  hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  high  in  this  part,  and  there  are  occasional  sections  ot 
them,  but  we  had  little  leisure  to  examine  their  structure.     In 
the  voyage  of  1826  we  drifted  down  the  stream  night  and  day, 
landing  only  when  necessary  to  cook  our  provisions;  and  in 
the  following  geological  notices,  as  far  as  the  passage  of  the 
river  named  the  Mrrows,  I  have  done  little  more  than  describe 
the  specimens  collected  by  Captain  Franklin,  when  he  ascend- 
ed the  river  by  the  tow-Une  in  1825.    The  few  notes  that  the 
rapidity  of  our  voyage  permitted  me  to  make,  as  to  the  direc- 
tion of  the  strata,  &c.,  were  faserted  in  the  book  that  was 
purioined  by  the  Esquimaux  it  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

About  fifty  miles  below  Bear  Lake  River  there  is  an  almost 
precipitous  cliff"  of  bituminous-shale,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  high,  strongly  resembling  the  cliffs  which  occur  near  the 
bases  of  the  hill  of  Scented-Grass  and  Great  Bear  Mountain 
in  Bear  Lake  already  described*,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Clear  Water  River  in  lat.  66i°.  In  the  two  former  localities 
the  shale  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of  horizontal  strata  of  lime- 
stone ;  and  in  the  latter  it  actually  reposes  on  the  limestone, 
which  extends  in  horizontal  strata  as  far  as  Great  Slave  Lake, 
is  connected  with  many  salt  springs,  and  possesses  many  of  the 

*  Page  268. 


0  THE 

the  Mac- 
i  remark- 
i  its  chan- 
from  one 
numerous 
ky  Moun- 
,  to  N.W. 
ir  altitude 
the  snow 
Aback 
is  also  ob- 
f  which  it 
3  formerly 
liver  near 
izie  are  in 
ndred  and 
sections  of 
cture.     In 
it  and  day, 
ns;  and  in 
age  of  the 
in  describe 
he  ascend- 
es  that  the 
>  the  direc- 
:  that  was 
;rer. 

1  an  almost 
ind  twenty 
ir  near  the 
■  Mountain 
)uth  of  the 
ir  localities 
ta  of  lime- 

hmestone, 
lave  Lake, 
nany  of  the 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  293 

characte,^  ascribed  to  the  zechstein  formation.     Captain 

133      t^e  £l.^^'-T\*^"  ^^^^^  ""^^^  *he  shale  cliffs  of 

of  th^shalpT/^^"  '*!r^^  "«*  «"'>^  ^'t^  fragments 

which  occui^lt  thl       ^^"^  ^-   S"'*"  "^*''  '™""  *^  *'^^* 
wnicn  occurs  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bear  Lake  River     TwpIv*. 

or  Seer:?,  'f  ^"  *t^^^  ?"«'«  ^^^'^  -  ^  S'seventeen 

1^4      5p"^ontal  beds.      Specimens    obtained    by  Captain 

\l\      ir!^^^  ^'  ^^^  "PP^'  ^"^  «f  t»^«  '•each  consist  of  fine" 
135      grained  quartzose  sandstone*  of  a  gray  colour   a„d 

m^hen^d'ro?R''^7  ^^t^'/^^-'-Wing  thU  which  iccur 
tL  -  (?rLat^'^^  At  the  commencement  of 

ine     ureat  K^pid  of  the  Mackenz  e"  there  is  a  hill  on  Parh 

wtt^ri'mS 

peafrnHil^f  H-  f'^^^^^^'P't  ^^^  ^^^^^^  Mountains  ap- 
KrW  unfinof  fn  ?r^-^ir  ^'^^P^"'^'  running  about  N.\V. 
or  fifty  m  1  K  1  *^^  -'f^  '  ^""^  ^'  ^^^  Mackenzie  for  forty 
or  htty  miFes  be  ow,  winds  away  to  the  northward   and  iW 

bri't^WK^'  ^  *'"'t  *^  *^"  ^^^*^«^^'  they  are  nTagaL  visi" 
ble,  until  the  nver  has  made  a  bend  to  the  westward  and 
emerges  from  the  defile  termed  "the  Narrows."  '    ""* 

1  he  "Eastern  mountain  of  the  rapid"  seems  to  have  a  simi- 
lar structure,  with  the  "Hill  by  the  River's  «,i.lp  "  II  k- 1    I 
the  mouth  of  Bear  Lake  Rivei(^d  theoth  rl  m^tonerfe^^^ 
whichtraversethispartofthecountry.     From  some  Wgh^^^^^^ 

136    stnl  i'^'  "'"  •*'  ^^'^ '  ^'^^^  off  specimens  off  lime- 
1 36    stone,  having  an  imperfectly  crystallfne  structure,  and  a 

brown  colour  which  deepens  into  dull  black  on  the  sur 
faces  of  Its  natural  seams.    /  piece  of  dark^ray!  compact" 

limestone,  hav  ng  the  peculiar  structure  to  whShe 

1 38    beach ;  also  several  pieces  of  chert,  and  some  fragment^ 
n«!r\^\'''''®''®  "Pefimens  have  a  wood-brown  colour  internallv  an^  «n 
hard  and  apparently  durable  stone,  occufring  in  layers  an  inch  ^^^^^^ 

colour,  wlk  conMier.Me  listrt  m  the  c^S'.,.     ''"  '  ''""'° 


294 


APPENDIX. 


142 

143 
140 


139    of  a  tn»p-rock,  consisting  of  pieces  of  greenstone,  more 

141     or  less  iron-shot,  cemented  by  calc-spar. 
Immediately  below  the  rapid  there  are  horizontal  layers  of 

sandstone  which  form  cliffs,  and  also  the  bed  of  the  river. 

Captain  Franklin  obtained  specimens  of  this  stone,  which  do 
not  differ  from  the  sandstones  above  the  rapid.  And 
amongst  the  debris  of  the  cliff  he  found  other  specimens 
of  the  "  cone  in  cone^''''  such  as  it  occurs  in  the  clayey 
beds  of  the  coal  measures,  and  also  some  pieces  of  crys- 
tallized pyrites. 
About  forty  miles  below  the  rapid,  the  river  flows  through 

a  narrow  defile  formed  by  the  approach  of  two  lofty  banks  of 
limestone  in  highly-inclined  strata,  above  which  there  is 

1 44  a  dilatation  of  the  river,  bounded  by  the  walls  of  sand- 
1 44a  stone,  which  have  weathered,  in  many  places,  into  pil- 

145  lars,  castellated  forms,  caves,  <Sz;c.  The  sandstone  strata 
are  horizontal,  have  slate-clay  partings,  and  seams  of  a 
poor  clay-iron  stone,  but  do  not  differ  in  general  appear- 
ance from  the  sandstone  beds  at  the  rapid,  except  that  a 
marly  stone  containing  corallines,  and  having  the  gene- 
ral colour  and  aspect  of  the  sandstone  beds,  is  associated 

with  them  at  this  place. 

The  very  remarkable  defile,  below  these  sandstone  beds,  is 
designated  "  the  second  rapid'''  by  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie, 
and  "  the  ramparts''''  by  the  traders,  a  name  adopted  by  Cap- 
tain Franklin.  Mackenzie  states  it  to  be  three  hundred  yards 
wide,  three  miles  long,  and  to  have  fifty  fathoms  depth  of  wa- 
ter. If  he  is  correct  in  iiis  soundings,  its  bed  is  probably  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  below  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  walls 
of  the  defile  rise  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
above  the  river,  and  the  strata  are  inclined  to  the  W.N.W.,  at 
an  angle  of  seventy  or  eighty  degrees.     It  is  worthy  of  remark, 


146 
147 

144b 


148 


151 


The  specimens  collected  by  Captain  Franklin  wore  as  follows : — 

144a  Sandstone  of  an  ash-gray  colour,  composed  of  rounded  grains  of  semi- 
transparent  quartz  of  various  sizes,  imbedded  in  a  considerable  pro- 
portion of  a  powdery  basis  which  effervesces  with  acids.  This  bed 
weathers  readily. 

1 15  Thick-slaty  sandstone  passing  into  slate-clay,  having  a  very-fine  grain- 
ed earthy  fracture,  and  a  light  bluish-gray  colour.  It  is  very  similar 
to  some  of  the  softer  sandstones  that  occur  in  the  coal  field  at  Edin- 
ourgh,  particularly  in  the  Calton  Hill.  , 

146  Scctilo  ash-gray  slate-clay  which  forms  the  partings  of  the  beds. 

144b  Bluish-gray  marl,  improgAatod  with  quartz,  forming  a  moderately 
hard  stone,  and  containing  corallines  {amplexus.') 


TOPOORAPHICAL  AND  QEOLOGICAL  NOTICES.  295 

\V;S  W  ttr^h  fh  of  the  rapid  it  runs  about 

hillsTf -c'lf  cTo'^  ts^^^^^^^^^  t»^«  "dge  of 

various  oarf*  nf  tu^  ^V"*^**^  "^[e-     oimiJar  elbows  occur  in 

1 48,  1 49    sLlaf  I  /^^upper  part  of  the  Ramparts  con- 

noticed  !l?" t'  ^"''"*'J  *™^^*°"^'  ^hi^h  was  not 

the  greater  ni^f.^'?^^'■^  ^"  ^^^  ^^"^«  «f  the  river,  but 

which  has  bLn  o?^  f  l™es  one,  strongly  resembling  that 

tlfsqua,?:r     MoS^^  ^^^"'"^  the  rid|es  in 

4      ""tir.     iviost  ot  the  beds  are  impregnated  wholly,  or  in 

*  Upper  part  of  the  ramparts. 

150  Compact,  white  limestone,  which,  when  examined  with  „  I«. 

to  be  entirely  composed  of  madrepores  "  '"''  ^P?""" 

151  Specimens  of  limestone,  havino'  a  crvst-i'llino  «„,.. 

lour  and  slaty  structure       ^      crystallme  texture,  a  brownish  co- 

From  the  middle  of  the  ramparts. 

156  feome  beds  contam  a  shell,  which  Mr.  Sowerby  refers'  tlioucrh  with 
doubt,  to  the  species  named  tcrebratula  sphoDroiila  is    /«,"•!' r^^^^^^ 

ed  aifj'*'  ^P''""^'^^  contain  ;,™rf„./,-  and  fragments  of  the  coral  nam- 

Lower  end  of  the  ramparts. 

'''  ""'JoTdtttoirba^iroVlrk  r'-'r ™  ^°'""^'  ^°"*^'"'"^  -">•'  -'^"' 

vera  tho  horizontal  beds  of  limcstono  last  mention^!  (IsS' 


m 


1*1 


ii 


ri<ii 


i 


296 


APPENDIX. 


patches,  with  bitumen.  Some  of  these  specimens  contain  co- 
FalHnesandterebratulae;  and  at  the  lower  end  of  the  defib 
there  are  horizontal  strata  of  limestone,  covered  by  a  thm  layer 

"^S^tl'ramparts  the  river  expands  to  the  width  of  two 
miles  and  for  a  reach  or  two  its  banks  are  less  elevated,  m 
Seer,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  i^mparts,  there  are  cliffs 
which  Captain  Franklin  in  his  notes,  remarks,  "run  on  an  E. 
hvi  course  for  four  miles,  are  almost  perpendicular,  about 
one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high,  and  present  the  same  castel- 
lated  appearances  tha'tare  exhibited  by  the  sands  one  above 
the  defile  of  the  «  ramparts."  The  clitts  are,  in 
159  160,  fact,  composed  of  sandstones  similar,  m  general  ap- 
61  162  pea  ance,  to  those  which  occur  higher  up  the  river; 
161,  ibA  je^a^^^^'^f  ^^^  ^^^3  ^^„tai„  the  quartz  m  coarser 

163  164,  grains,  with  little  or  no  cement.    The  beds  are 

65    66  horizontal,  and  repose  on  horizontal  hmestone^ 

'       '  from  which  Captain  Franklin  broke  "lany  speci- 

1C7  iRR  mpnsin  1825.    We  landed  at  this  place  in  1826 

\IV  170  TseeSie  junction  of  the  two  rocks,  but  the  lime- 

'  stone  was  concealed  by  the  high  waters  of  the  river. 

*  Specimens  from  the  diffs  in  lat.  esi®. 

159  Very  fine-gramed  sandstone,  with  much  clayey  basis-portiong  of  the 

ifiO  SaStone'fine^irained,  and  appearing,  when  examined  with  a  lens,  to 

160  Sandstone  nne  g';*        '  ^^     f  whitish  translucent  quartz,  black 

LVdrTnerLd^^eSoured  grains,  probably  of  disintegrated 

161  Rounded'grains  of  nearly  transparent  quartz  united  without  cement- 

162  SaStr:ompted%f  grains  like  the  preceding,unitedby^ 

formin?  a  firmer  stone.  , 

ift^i  H.trH  thin  slatv.  bluish-gray  sandstone,  much  iron-shot. 

IS  Sne'/raKbluis^^^^  t°  be  distinguished  m  hand- 

''*  ^';;Sns  from  some^of  the  sandstones  which  occur  at  the  rapid  m 
Bear  Lake  River. 

t  Horiionlal  liimlme  ieii  lying  wider  Ike  larMoM. 
166  Fine-graioed  limeetone,  will,  in  earthy  fracture,  coloured  brown  «.d 
,67,  .sIXilTrlr  trptSding,  containing  man,  .hell..    Some  bed. 
169  Berftn,;lX'c"^Sne  limeetone,  of  a  brownieh-gra,  colour, 

debris  of  the  limeBtone  cliffs. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


297 


Captain  Franklin's  specimens  are  full  of  shells,  many  of  which 
are  identical  with  those  of  the  flat  limestone  strata  of  the 
Athabasca  River.  One  bed  appears  to  be  almost  en- 
1  n  tireiy  composed  of  a  fine  large  species  of  terrebratula, 
not  yet  described,  but  of  which  Mr.  Sowerby  has  a  spe- 
cimen trom  the  carboniferous  limestone  of  Neho,  in  Norway, 
some  of  the  beds  contain  the  shells  infragments;  in  others,  the 
shells  are  very  entire. 

About  forty  miles  below  these  sandstone  walls  the  banks  of 
the  river  are  composed  of  marl-slate,  which  weathers  so  readi- 
1 7o  V  5* ''  ^^'"'"^  shelving  acclivities.  In  one  reach  the 
I  /^  sou  strata  are  cut  by  ravines  into  very  regular  forms, 
resembling  piles  of  cannon  shot  in  an  arsenal,  whence  it 
was  named  Shot-reach. 

The  river  makes  a  short  turn  to  the  north  below  Shot 
neacn,  and  a  more  considerable  one  to  the  westward,  in  pass- 
ing the  present  site  of  Fort  Good  Hope.  The  banks  in  that 
neighbourhood  are  mostly  of  clay,  but  beds  of  sandstone  occa- 
sionally show  themselves.  The  Indians  travel  from  Fort  Good 
Hope  nearly  due  north,  reach  the  summit  of  a  ridge  of  land  on 
the  farst  nighi,  and  from  thence  following  the  course  of  a  small 
stream  they  are  conducted  to  the  river  Inconnu,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  4th  day  they  reach  the  shores  of  Esquimaux 
l^ake.  Its  water  is  brackish,  the  tide  flowing  into  it.  The 
neck  of  land  which  the  Indians  cross  from  Fort  Good  Hope  is 
termed  "isthmus"  on  Arrowsmith's  map,  from  Mackenzie's 
inlormation;  and  its  breadth,  from  the  known  rate  at  which  the 
Indians  are  accustomed  to  travel,  cannot  exceed  sixty  miles 
Ihe  ridge  is  named  the  Carreboeuf,  or  Rein-deer  Hills,  and 
runs  to  lat.  69°,  forming  a  peninsula  between  the  eastern  chan- 
nel of  the  Mackenzie  and  Esquimaux  Lake. 

A  small  stream  flows  into  the  Mackenzie  some  way  below 
Fort  Good  Hope,  on  the  banks  of  which,  according  to  Sir 
Alexander  Mackenzie,  the  Indians  and  Esquimaux  collect  flints 
He  describes  these  banks  as  composed  of  «  a  high,  steep,  and 
soft  rock,  variegated  with  red,  green,  and  yellow  hues;  and 
that,  from  the  continual  dripping  of  the  water,  parts  of  it  fre- 
quently fall,  and  break  into  small,  stony  flakes,  like  slate,  but 
"°i!-^?u  ^'^^*  Amongst  these  are  found  pieces  of  petroleum, 
JJ^J'C"  oears  a  resemblance  to  yellow  wax,  but  is  more  pliable." 
The  flint  he  speaks  of  is  most  probably  flinty-slate;  but  1  do 
not  know  what  the  yellow  petroleum  is,  unless  it  be  the  varie- 
ty of  alum,  named  rock-butter,  which  was  observed  in  other 
situations,  forming  thin  layers  in  bituminous  shale. 


f^s 


'<^l- 


m 


1? 


298 


APPENDIX. 


About  twenty  miles  below  Fort  Good  Hope  there  are  some 
sandstone  cliirs,*  which  Captain  Franklin  examined 
173, 174     in  1825.     The  sandstones  are  similar  to  those  oc- 
curring higher  up  the  river,  but  some  of  the  beds 
contain  small  pieces  of  bituminous  shale;  and  they  are  inter- 
stratified  with  thin  layersof  flinty -slate,  and  of  flinty -slate  pass- 
ing into  bituminous  shale.    The  flinty-slate  contains 
175,  176     iron  pyrites,  and  its  layers  are  covered  with  a  sul- 
phureous efflorescence.    Some  of  the  beds  pass  into 
a  slate-clay,  which  contains  vegetable  impressions,  and  some 
veins  of  ciay-iron  stone  also  appear  in  the  clifF. 

Sixty  miles  below  Fort  Good  Hope  the  river  turns  to  the 
northward,  and  makes  a  sharp  elbow  betwixt  walls  of  sand- 
stone eighty  or  ninety  feet  high,  which  continue  for  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles.    Captain  Franklin  named  this  pas- 

178  sage  of  the  river  "  The  Narrows."!   The  sandstones 

179  of  the  J^arrows  lie  in  horizontal  beds,  and  have 
generally  a  d<irk  gray  colour.     They  are  parted  by 

1 80  thin  slaty  beds  of  sandstone,  containing  small  pieces 
181,  132     apparently  of  bituminous  coal,  and  some  casts  of 

183       vegetables.    Most  of  the  beds  contain  scales  of  mica, 
and  some  of  them  have  nodules  of  indurated  iron- 
shot  clay  which  exhibit  obscure  impressions  of  shells.     A  bed 
of  imperfectly  crystalline  limestone  was  seen  by  Captain  Frank- 
lin underlying  the  sandstones. 


*  Sandstone  clijjfs  twenty  miles  below  Fort  Good  Hope. 

173  Friable  sandstone,  composed  of  grayish-white  quartz,  in  smooth,  round- 

ed grains,  cemented  by  a  brownish  basis.  Some  carbonaceous  mat- 
ter is  interspersed  tlirough  tlie  stone,  and  it  contains  small  fragments 
of  bituminous  shale. 

174  Calcareous  sandstone  passing  into  slate-clay — bluish-gray  colour. 

173  Black,  flinty-slato,  with  a  flat  conchoidal  cross  fracture.  Some  of  the 
pieces  appear  to  be  rhomboidal  distinct  concretions. 

176  Dull,  flinty-slate,  witli  an  even  fracture. 

178  Thin-slaty  blackish-gray  sandstone,  much  indurated,  containing  scales 
of  mica. 

179,  180  Bluish-gray  sardstone,  containing  many  minute  specks  of  carbo- 
naceous matter;  also,  in  patches,  grains  of  chert,  and  flinty -slate,  and 
imbedded  pieces  of  iron-shot  clay,  which  has  obscure  casts  of  shells. 
Scales  of  mica  are  interspersed  through  this  stone. 

181,  18'2  Sandstone  containing  specks  of  bituminous?  coal,  and  casts  of 
some  vegetable  ?  substance. 

133  Gray  limestone,  much  impregnated  with  quartz,  and  having  an  imper- 
fect crystalline  structure. 
1   Mackenzie  notices  the  precipices  of  "  gray  stone,"  which  bound  the 

river  hero,  p.  71. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


299 


MACKENZIE  RIVER  BELOW  "THE  NARROWS." 

\ni^"r^Ji^K^^''T'  on  emerRing  from  the  Narrows,  separates 
di  uvkl7pU«r^'''t  ""^''^  iri?  *^^  '^^  through  alluvial  or 
fhp  I^if  K  ^1"^  "r^*?^'-  ^^^  ^°^ky  Mountains  are  seen  on 
owInlr^T^K'^*^'  river,  forming  the  boundary  of  those 
mul^i '  ""^l^^  ^^''^'•'  **"*  ^^^'^^**  "dge,  of  the  Rein-deer 
t^llv  Iv'  l^f^  ^P^""^'  ^^""-^^  °"  the  east  bank.  The  es- 
N^nfn  Ih^  between  these  two  ranges,  opens  to  the  N.W.  by 

m;nfnf    \  ''ul^  •  ^^^'     ^  ^^"^  already  mentioned  the  spec^ 
mens  of  rocks  obtained  at  the  few  points  of  the  Rocky  M?»un. 
tains  that  were  visited,*  and  therefore  shall  now  speak  only  of 
n«!.?rf""^^K''  ."'"'••.     Y"  ^'^  "*^t  ^PP'-^^^h  them  Sntil  we  had 
?hroui  nil    "'ir'^f  ^"7"  a  branch  of  the  river  which  winds 
Sin     ?      i^^"?'-.  ^*  t^'^  place  there  are  several  conical 
hill   about  two  hundred  feet  high,  which  appeared  to  consist 
ot  limestone.     Specimens  taken  from  some  slightly-inclined 
beds  near  their  bases,  consisted  of  a  fine-grained,  dark,  bluish- 
gray  limestone.    After  passing  these  limestone  rocks,  the  Rein- 
deer  Hills  were  pretty  uniform  in  appearance,  having  a  steep 
acclivity  with  rounded  summits.     Their  height,  on  the  borders 
of  the  nver,  is  about  four  hundred  feet,  but  a  mile  or  two  in- 
land  they  attain  an  elevation  of  perhaps  two  hundred  feet  more 
rheir  sides  are  deeply  covered  with  sand  and  clay,  arising 
most  probably  from  the  disintegration  of  the  subjacent  rocks 
A  section  made  by  a  torrent,  showed  the  summit  of  one  of  the 

ift4   ifl.    ^'M^f^  ^e  formed  of  gray  slate-clay,  its  middle  of 
1 84,  1 85     friable  gray  sandstone  much  iron-shot,  and  its  base 

,  ofdark  bluish-gray  slaty  clay.     The  sandstone  pre- 

dominates  in  some  parts  of  the  range,  forming  small  cliffs,  un- 
derneath which  there  are  steep  acclivities  of  sand.     It  contains 

r.'^h-?/^"'l'^"'"l'^^''^'''""'^^"**>'^^^*^^  l)^d'an  stone, 
and  white  quartz  in  its  composition,  and  greatly  resembles  the 
friable  sandstones  of  the  lignite  formation  at  the  mouth  of  Bear 
Lake  River.  In  some  parts  the  soil  has  a  red  colour 
trom  the  disintegration  of  a  reddish-brown  slate-clay 
Ihe  summits  of  the  hills  that  were  visited  were  thinly 
coated  with  loose  gravel,  composed  of  smooth  pebbles 
01  lydianstone,  intermixed  with  some  pieces  of  green  fel- 
spar, white  quartz,  limestone,  and  chert.  In  some  places  almost 


186 


187 


v.*  I 


'Si 


*  See  page  288. 


300 


JirPENDIX. 


all  the  pebbles  were  as  lai^e  as  a  goose-egg ;  in  others  none  of 
them  exceeded  the  size  of  a  hazel  nut.  The  Rein-deer  Moun- 
tains terminate  in  lat.  69°,  having  previously  diminished  in 
altitude  to  two  hundred  feet,  and  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
river  turns  round  their  northern  extremity.  White  spruce 
trees  grow  at  the  base  of  these  hills  as  far  as  lat.  68i°  ;  north 
of  which  they  become  very  stunted  and  straggling,  and  very 
soon  disappear,  none  reaching  to  lat.  69°. 

Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  who,  on  his  return  from  the  sea, 
walked  over  these  hills,  says,  "Though  the  country  is  so  ele- 
vated, it  is  one  continued  morass,  except  on  the  summits  of 
some  barren  hills.  As  I  carried  my  hanger  in  my  hand,  1  fre- 
quently examined  if  any  part  of  the  ground  was  in  a  state  of 
thaw,  but  could  never  force  the  blade  into  it  beyond  the  depth 
of  six  or  eight  inches.  The  face  of  the  high  land  towards  the 
river  is,  in  some  places,  rocky,  and  in  others  a  mixture  of  sand 
and  stone,  veined  with  a  kind  of  red. earth,  with  which  the  na- 
tives bedaub  themselves."  It  was  on  the  14th  of  July  that  he 
made  these  observations.  On  the  5th  of  the  same  month,  in  a 
milder  year,  we  found  that  the  thaw  had  penetrated  nearly  a 
foot  into  the  beds  of  clay  at  the  base  of  the  hills. 


ALLUVIAL  ISLANDS  AT  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE   MACKENZIE. 

The  space  between  the  Rockv  Mountains  and  Rein-deer 
Hills,  ninety  miles  in  length  from  "lat.  67°  40'  to  69°  10',  and 
from  fifteen  to  forty  miles  in  width,  is  occupied  by  flat  alluvial 
islands,  which  separate  the  various  branches  of  the  river. 
Most  of  these  islands  are  partially  or  entirely  flooded  in  the 
spring,  and  have  their  centres  depressed  and  marshy,  or  oc- 
cupied by  a  lake ;  whilst  their  borders  are  higher  and  well 
clothed  by  white  spruce  trees.  The  spring  floods  find  their 
way,  through  openings  in  these  higher  banks,  into  the  hollow 
centres  of  the  islands,  carrying  with  them  a  vast  quantity  of 
drift  timber,  which,  being  left  there,  becomes  water-soaked, 
and,  finally,  firmly  impacted  in  the  mud.  The  young  willows, 
which  spring  up  rapidly,  contribute  much  towards  raising  the 
borders  of  the  stream,  by  intercepting  the  drift  sand  which  the 
wind  sweeps  from  the  margin  of  the  shallow  ponds  as  they  dry 
up  in  summer.  The  banks,  being  firmly  frozen  in  spring, 
are  enabled  to  resist  the  weight  of  the  temporary  floods  which 
occur  in  that  season,  and  before  they  are  thawed  the  river  has 


188 


189 
190 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOUICAL  NOTICES. 


301 


resumed  its  low  summer  level.    The  trees  which  grow  on  the 
islands  terminate  suddenly,  in  lat.  68''  40'. 

I  have  already  mentioned,  that  a  large  sheet  of  brackish  wa- 
ter, named  Esquimaux  Lake,  lies  to  the  eastward  of  the  Rein- 
deer Mountains,  running  to  the  southward,  and  approaching 
within  sixty  miles  of  the  bend  of  Mackenzie's  River  at  Fort 
Good  Hope.  This  lake  has  a  large  outlet  into  Liverpool  Bay, 
to  the  westward  of  Cape  Bathurst,  and  there  are  many  smaller 
openmgs  betwixt  that  bay  and  Point  Encounter,  near  the  north 
end  of  the  Rein-deer  Hills,  which  are  also  supposed  to  form 
communications  betwixt  the  lake  and  the  sea.     The  whole 
coast-hne  from  Cape  Bathurst  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie, 
and  the  islands  skirting  it,  as  far  as  Garry^and  Sacred  Islands, 
present  a  great  similarity  in  outline  and  structure.   They  con- 
sist of  extensive  sandy  flats,  from  which  there  arise,  abruptly, 
hills  of  an  obtuse  conical  form,  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  general  level.  Sandy  shoals  skirt  the  coast,  and  nu- 
merous inlets  and  basins  of  water  divide  the  flat  lands,  and 
frequently  produce  escarpments  of  the  hills,  which  show  them 
to  be  composed  of  strata  of  sand  of  various  colours,  sometimes 
inclosing  very  large  logs  of  drift  timber.     There  is  a  coating 
of  black  vegetable  earth,  from  six  inches  to  a  foot  in  thick- 
ness, covering  these  sandy  hummocks,  and  some  of  the  es- 
carped sides  appeared  black,  which  was  probably  caused  by 
soil  virashed  from  the  summit. 

It  is  possible  that  the  whole  of  these  eminences  may,  at 
some  distant  period,  have  been  formed  by  the  drifting  of 
moveable  sands.  At  present  the  highest  floods  reach  only  to 
their  bases,  their  height  being  marked  by  a  thick  layer  of  drift 
timber.  When  the  timber  has  been  thrown  up  beyond  the 
reach  of  ordinary  floods,  it  is  covered  with  sand,  and,  in  pro- 
cess of  time,  with  vegetable  mould.  The  Elt/mus  mollis,  and 
some  similar  grasses  with  long  fibrous  roots,  serve  to  prevent 
the  sand-hills  from  drifting  away  again.  Some  of  the  islands, 
however,  consist  of  mud  or  clay.  Captain  Franklin  describes 
Garry's  Island  as  presenting  cliffs,  two  hundred  feet  high,  of 
black  mud,  in  which  there  were  inclined  beds  of  lig- 
nite. Specimens  of  this  lignite  have  the  same  appear- 
ance with  the  fibrous  wood-coal  occurring  in  the  for- 
mation at  the  mouth  of  Bear  Lake  River,  and,  like  it, 
contain  resin.  Imbedded  in  the  same  bank,  there  were 
large  masses  of  a  dark-brown  calc-tuff,  full  of  cavities 
containing  some  greenish  earthy  substance.  Some 
boulders  of  lydian  stone  strew  the  beach.    The  cHffs  of  Ni- 


188 


189 
190 


■w\ 


;Ei 


I 


m' 


302 


APPENDIX. 


cholson^s  Island  also  consisted  of  sand  and  mud,  which,  at  the 
time  of  our  visit,  (July  16th,)  had  thawed  to  the  depth  of 
three  feet.  This  island  rises  four  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  is  covered  with  a  thin  sward  of  grasses 
and  bents. 


SEA-COAST.— BITUMINOUS  ALUM  SHALE. 

The  main  land  to  the  east  of  Nicholson^s  Tsland,  as  far  as 
Cape  Bathurst,  presents  gently  swelling  hills,  which  attain  the 
height  of  two  hundred  feet  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  from 
the  beach,  and  the  ground  is  covered  with  a  sward  of  moss 
and  grasses.  At  Point  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland  there  are  cliff's 
forty-feet  high  of  sand  and  slaty  clay,  and  the  ravines  are  lined 
with  fragments  of  whitish  compact  limestone,  exactly  resem- 
bling thai  which  occurs  in  Lakes  Huron  and  Winipeg,  and 
which  was  afterwards  seen  forming  the  promontory  of  Cape 
Parry,  bearing  E.N.E.  from  this  place.  The  beach,  on  the 
south  side  of  Harrowby  Bay,  not  far  from  Point  Maitland,  was 
thickly  strewed  with  fragments  of  dark  red  and  of  white  sand- 
stone, together  with  some  blocks  of  the  above-mentioned  lime- 
stone, and  a  few  boulders  of  sienite. 

From  Cape  Bathurst  the  coast  line  has  a  S.E.  direction,  and 

is  formed  by  precipitous  cliffs,  which  gradually  rise  in  height 

from  thirty  feet  to  six  hundred.     The  beds  composing  these 

cliff's  appear  to  be  analogous  to  those  of  the  alum-shale  banks 

at  Whitby,  and  similar  to  those  which  skirt  the  Scented-grass 

Hill  and  Great  Bear  Mountain,  in  Great  Bear  Lake.     The 

Scented-grass  Hill  is  distant  from  Cape  Bathurst  about  three 

hundred  miles,  on  a  S.E.  bearing,  which  corresponds,  within 

a  point,  with  the  direction  of  the  principal  mountain  chains 

in   the  country.     There  is  evidently  a  striking  similarity 

in   the  form  of  the  ground  plan  of  these  two  pro- 

191       montories.     At  the  extremity  of  Cape  Bathurst  the 

cliffs  consist  of  slaty-clay,  which,  when  dry,  has  a  hght 

bluish-gray  colour,  a  slightly  greasy  feel,  and  falls  down  in 

flakes.     The  rain-virater  had  penetrated  the  cliff"  to  the  depth 

of  three  yards  from  the  summit;  and  this  portion  was  frozen, 

on  the  1 7th  July,  into  an  icy  wall,  which  crumbled  down  as 

it  thawed.  On  proceeding  a  little  further  along  the  coast,  some 

beds  were  observed  that  possessed,  when  newly  exposed  to 

the  air,  tenacity  enough  to  be  denominated  stone,  but  which, 

under  the  action  of  water,  speedily  softened  into  a  tenacious 

bluish-clay. 


192 
193 
197 
198 
199 


200 
194 
195 
196 


201 


and 


192 
193 
197 
198 
199 


200 
194 
195 
196 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOaiCAL  NOTICES.  303 

of  fhl^riwr  '^"'"i"  "^"i  ""T  ^l^'^'^^^'^  ^>'  ^''^  variegated  colours 
of  the  c  i«,  and  on  landing  found  that  they  proceeded  from 
clays  baked  by  the  heat  of  a  bed  of  bituminous-alum. 
shale  which  had  been  on  fire.  Some  parts  of  the  earth 
were  still  warm.     The  shale  is  of  a  brown  colour  and 
thin  slaty  structure,  with  an  earthy  fracture.     It  con- 
tains many  interspersed  crystals  of  selenite;  between 
Its  Jamina  there  is  much  powdery  alum,  mixed  with 
in  .!«  j"'P'^".'''  an^  »'  '^  traversed  by  veins  of  brown  selenite, 
m  slender  prismatic  crystals.     The  bed  was  much  broken 
down,  and  hid  by  the  debris  of  the  bank,  but  in  parts  it  was 
several  yards  thick,  and  contained  layers  of  the  wax- 
coloured  variety  of  alum,  named  Rock-butter.     Tho 
shale  IS  covered  by  a  bed  of  stone,  chiefly  composed  of 
oval  distinct  concretions  of  a  poor  calcareous  clay-Jron 
stone.     These  concretions  have  a  straight  cleavage  in 
hv  fiK  ^^ection  of  their  short  axis,  and  are  often  coasted 

by  fabrous  calc-sinter  and  calcedony.  The  upper  part  of  the 
cliff  ,8  clay  and  sand  passing  into  a  loosely  cohering  sandstone. 
Ihe  strata  are  horizontal,  except  in  the  neighbourhood  of  ra- 
vines, or  of  consumed  shale,  when  they  are  often  highly  in- 
c  ined,  apparently  from  partial  subsidence.  The  debris  of  the 
cliff  lorm  declivities,  having  an  inclination  of  from  fifty  to 
eighty  degrees,  and  the  burnt  clays  variously  coloured,  yellow 
white,  and  deep  red,  give  it  much  the  appearance  of  the  rub-' 
bish  of  a  brick-field.  The  view  of  the  interior,  from  the  sum- 
IIIkvk  n  '  P*;^^^"*!^  l^'-Zace  slightly  varied  by  eminences, 
which  swell  genUy  to  the  height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  the 
generalievel.  The  soil  is  clayey,  with  a  very  scanty  vegeta- 
tion, and  there  are  many  small  lakes  in  the  country 

Ten  miles  further  on,  the  alum-shale  forms  a*  cliff  two 
hundred  feet  high,  and  presents  layers  of  the  Rock-butter 
about  two  mches  thick,  with  many  crystals  of  selenite  on  the 
surfaces  of  the  slates.  The  summit  of  the  cliff  consists 
-iOl  ol  a  bed  of  marly  gravel  two  yards  thick,  which  is 
composed  of  pebbles  of  granite,  sienite,  quartz,  lydian- 
stone,  and  compact  limestone,  all  coated  by  a  white  powdery 
marl.  The  dip  of  the  strata  at  this  place  is  slightly  to  the 
northward.  °     •' 

A  few  miles  to  the  south-east  of  Wilmot  Horton  River  the 
cliffs  are  six  hundred  feet  high,  and  present  acclivities  having 
an  inclination  of  from  thirty  to  sixty  degrees,  formed  of  wea- 
thered 3late-clay.  Some  beds  of  alum-shale  are  visible  at 
the  foot  of  these  cliffs,  containing  much  sulphate  of  alumina 
and  masses  of  baked  clay. 


IF 


I 


li 


304 


AFPEXDIX. 


Two  miles  further  along  the  coast  the  shalv  strata  were  on 
Two  mles  urine         |j^^  ^^ig  t^e  cliffs  become  much 

c litft  eSau/te^  in  green  a.>d  «»0P'"g  ^»"^«'.  ^^°;„" 

X  e  clay  were  e^^oled-'on  reaching  the  bottom  of  Franklm 

SH^Sfe^t;'  iri;.^=",  foSt 
peaked    i  the  outline. 


SEA  COAST.-LIMESTONE. 

5:rr4  T  uM  Jbur  it  graaially  increases  in  he^Jl 
aenieu  ujr  ^  ^^^^^^  ^^^  separated  Irom 

Sr^ea  by  Caches  l^mpoLd  /f  rolled  pieces  of  compact  ime- 

So^n^  anV:hich,althoVthey-^^ 

^{  '^J::st^:£^;l^  I tsr x».  ap- 

nearl  from  the  mineralogical  characters  of  the  stone  compos- 
fne  the  grTat  mass  of  the  strata,  and  the  o'jg^'^^^/^"^^'"^^;^ 
served  fn  U,  to  be  identical  with  the  limestone  formations  of 
Lakes  Winipeg^and^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^^^^  ^^^^  .„  ,, 

cliffs  about  twenty  feet  high  are  composed  of  a  hne- 
g  ained*  brownish  dolomite,  in  angular  distinct  con- 
Sns,  and  containing  corallines  and  vo^ 
soar  In  the  same  neighbourhood  there  is  a  bed  oi 
/ravish-black  compact  luculite  with  drusses  of  calc- 
fparvery  similar  to  the  limestone  which  occurs  m 


202 
204 


203 


*  Specimens  from  Sellwood  Bay. 

202  Fine-grained  dark  brownisl.  gray  dolomite,  with  corallmos  f  Hed  w.th 

203  Slmttg^/ajuh-black,  compact,  and  without  lu.a.. 

^  SZed'rectev.dently  of  the  same  rock  with  th. preceding,  contain- 
ing  the  impresaion  of  a  cardiiim.  ^ 


207 


TOPOORAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOOICAL  NOTICES. 


305 


'ere  on 
emuch 
quence 
ruined 
,  whose 
ix  hun- 
)f  level 
ind  the 
beds  of 
'rankliu 
S.E.  di- 
mewhat 


ery  low, 
«atly  in- 
in  height 
ted  from 
act  lime- 
ew  yards 
I  part  of 
vhicji  ap- 
compos- 
Tiains  ob- 
lations of 

;.  69°  42', 
of  a  fine- 
tinct  con- 
13  of  calc- 
a  bed  of 
B  of  calc- 
occurs  in 


IE  filled  with 


ing,  contain- 


highly  inclined  strata  at  the  "  Rock  by  the  River  Side,"  on 
the  Mackenzie,  and  in  horizontal  strata  in  an  island  near  that 
rock,  where  it  forms  angular  concretions. 

After  passing  Scllwood  Bay,  the  north  and  cast  shores  of 
Cape  Parry,  and  the  islands  skirting  them,  present  magnifi- 
cent chlFs  of  limestone,  which,  from  the  weathering  action  of 
the  waves  of  the  sea,  assume  curious  architectural  forms. 
Many  of  the  insulated  rocks  are  perforated.  Between  the 
bold  projecting  chfls  of  hmestone  there  are  narrow  shelving 
beaches,  formed  of  its  debris,  that  alFord  access  to  the  interior. 
The  strata  have  generally  a  slight  dip  to  the  northward,  and 
the  most  common  Rock  is  a  yellowish-gray  dolomite  which 
has  a  very  compact  structure,  but  presents  some  shining  facets 
of  diss  minated  calc-spar.  This  stone,  which  is  not  to  be 
distinguij'n  d  by  its  mineralogical  characters  from  the  prevail- 
ing limestone  of  Lake  Winipeg,  and  at  the  passage  of  La  cloche 
in  L.ike  Huron,  forms  beds  six  or  eight  feet  thick,  and  is  fre- 
quently interstratified  with  a  cellular  limestone,  approaching 
to  chert  in  hardness,  and  exhibiting  the  characters  of  rauch- 
wacke.  In  some  parts,  the  rauchvvacke  is  the  predominating 
rock,  and  has  its  cells  beautifully  powdered  with  crystals  of 
quartz  or  of  calc-spar,  and  contains  layers  of  chert  of  a  milky 
colour.  The  chert  has  sometimes  the  appearance  of  calcedo- 
ny,  and  is  finely  striped. 

The  extremity  of  Cape  Parry  is  a  hill  about  se- 
208, 209  ven  hundred  feet  high,  m  which  beds  of  brownish 
dolomite,  impregnated  with  silica,  are  interstratified 
with  a  thin-slaty,  gray  limestone,  having  a  compact  structure.* 
The  vegetation  is  very  scanty,  and  there  are  some  spots  co- 
vered with  fragments  of  dolomite,  on  which  there  is  not  the 
vestige  even  of  a  lichen.  Many  large  boulders  of  greenstone 
were  thrown  upon  the  N.W.  point  of  Cape  Parry.  The 
islands  in  Darnley  Bay,  between  Capes  Parry  and  Lyon,  are 
composed  of  limestone. 


♦  Spocimons  from  the  Promontory  of  Capo  Parry,  which  rises  into  a  hill, 
seven  hundred  foot  high.    Strata  dipping  lightly  to  the  northward. 

207  Yellowish-gray  dolomite,  imperfectly  crystalline,  being  similar  to  the 

limestone  of  Lake  Winipeg. 

208  Brownish  dolomite  impregnated  with  silica. 

209  Thin-slaty,  gray  limestone.     Very  common  also  in  Lake  Winipeg. 
210,  211  Boulders  of  dolomite. 

212 

213  Brown  dolomite,  with  drusy  cavities  and  veins,  lined  by  calc-spar. 

39 


306 


APPENDIX. 


SEA-COAST.— FORMATION    OF  SLATE-CLAY,  SANDSTONE, 
AND  LIMESTONE,  WITH  TRAP-ROCKS. 

From  Cape  Lyon  to  Point  Tinney,  the  rocks  forming  the 
coast-line  are  slate-clay,  limestone,  greenstone,  sandstone,  and 
calcareous  puddingstone. 

Near  the  extremity  of  Cape  Lyon  the  slate-day  pre- 
^^       dominates,  occurring  in  straight,  thin,  bluish-gray  layers, 
which  are  interspersed  with  detached  scales  of  mica.  It  some- 
times forms  thicker  slates,  that  are  impregnated  with 
215     ,ron,  and  occurs  alone,  or  interstratified  in  thin  beds 
with  a  reddish,  small-grained  limestone.     The  strata,  in 
general,  dip  slightly  to  the  N.E.,  and  form  gently-swelling 
grounds,  which  at  the  distance  of  about  fifteen  miles  to  the 
southward  terminate  in  hills,  named  the  Melville   Range. 
These  hills  are  apparently  connected  with  those  which  skirt 
the  coast  to  the  westward  of  Parry's  Peninsula,  have  rather  a 
soft  outline,  and  do  not  appear  to  attain  an  altitude  of  more 
than  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.     Ridges  of 
naked  trap-rocks,  which  traverse  the  lower  country  betwixt 
the  Melville  hills  and  the  extremity  of  the  Cape;  rise  abrupt- 
ly to  the  height  of  one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
and  have,  in  general,  an  E.N.E.  direction.    When  these  trap 
ridges  reach  the  coast,  they  form  precipices  which  frequently 
have  a  columnar  structure,  and  the  nearly  horizontal  strata  of 
slate-clay  are  generally  seen  underlying  the  precipices.     In 
many  places  the  softer  clay  strata  are  worn  considerably  away, 
and  the  columns  of  greenstone  hang  over  the  beach.  Columns 
of  this  description  occur  at  the  north-eastern  extremity  of  the 
Cape,  and  the  slate-clay  is  not  altered  at  its  point  of  contact 
with  the  greenstone.  The  soil  in  this  neighbourhood  is  clayey, 
and  some  small  streams  have  pretty  lofty  and  steep  clayey 
banks  ;  the  shaly  strata  appearing  only  at  their  base.     A  bet- 
ter sward  of  grasses  and  carices  exists  at  Cape  Lyon,  than  is 
usual  on  those  shores.     Many  boulders  of  greenstone  and 
large  fragments  of  red  sandstone  strew  the  beach. 

At  Point  Pearce,  four  or  five  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Cape 
Lyon,  a  reddish,  small-grained  limestone  forms  perpendicular 
cliffs  two  hundred  feet  high,  in  which  a  remarkable  cavern 
occurs.  Near  these  cliffs  the  slate-clay  and  reddish  limestone 
are  interstratified,  and  form  a  bold  rocky  point,  in  which  the 
strata  din  (o  the  N.E.  at  an  analc  of  20°*     The  coast  line  he- 


217 
218 
219 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


307 


STONE, 


ning  the 
one,  and 

"lay  pre- 
ly  layers, 

It  some- 
ted  with 
iiin  beds 
strata,  in 
-swelling 
;s  to  the 
Range, 
lich  skirt 
;  rather  a 

of  more 
Hidges  of 
/  betwixt 
;  abrupt- 
fifty  feet, 
liese  trap 
requently 

strata  of 
ices.  In 
bly  away, 

Columns 
ity  of  the 
if  contact 
is  clayey, 
;p  clayey 
'..  A  bet- 
n,  than  is 
tone  and 

d  of  Cape 
lendicular 
►Ic  cavern 
limestone 
ivhich  the 
st  line  by- 


comes  lower  to  the  eastward,  and  at  Point  Keats  a  fine-grain- 
ed, flesh-coloured  sandstone  occurs.  This  sandstone  is 
quartzose,  does  not  possess  much  tenacity,  and  is  without  any 
apparent  basis. 

At  Point  Deas  Thompson  the  limestone  re-appears,  having 
reddish-brown  and  flesh-red  colours,  and  a  splintery  fracture. 
There  are  some  beautiful  Gothic  arches  formed  in  the  cliffs 
there  by  the  v^eathering  of  the  strata. 

Five  miles  farther  along  the  coast,  near  Roscoe  River,  the 
same  kind  of  limestone  forms  cliffs  twenty-five  feet  high,  and 
is  covered  by  thin  layers  of  soft  slate-clay.  On  the  top  of 
these  chffs  we  observed  a  considerable  quantity  of  drift-timber 
and  some  hummocks  of  gravel.  The  spring  tides  do  not  rise 
above  two  feet.  The  Melville  Range  approaches  within  three 
miles  of  the  coast  there,  and  presents  a  few  short  conical  sum- 
mits, although  the  hills  composing  it  are  mostly  round-backed. 
At  Point  De  Witt  Clinton,  a  compact  blackish-blue  lime- 
stone, traversed  by  veins  of  calc-spar,  forms  a  bed  thirty  feet 
thick,  which  reposes  on  thin  layers  of  a  soft,  compact, 
light,  bluish-gray  limestone  or  marl.  The  cliffs  at  this 
place  are  altogether  about  seventy  feet  high,  but  their 
bases  were  concealed  by  accumulations  of  ice.  Veins 
filled  with  compact  and  fibrous  gypsum  traverse  the  up- 
per limestone.  Naked  and  barren  ridges  of  greenstone,  much 
iron-shot,  cross  the  country  here,  in  the  same  manner  as  at 
Cape  Lyon.  The  soil  consists  of  gravel  and  clay;  the  former 
mostly  composed  of  whitish  magnesian  limestone ;  and  the  ve- 
getation is  very  scanty. 

At  Point  Tinney,  in  lat.  69"^  20',  cliffs  of  a  calcareous  pud- 
dingotone,  about  forty  feet  high,  extend  for  a  mile  along  the 
coast.  The  basis,  in  most  of  the  beds,  is  calc-spar;  but  in 
some  small  layers  it  is  calcareous  sand.  The  imbedded  peb- 
bles are  smooth,  vary  in  magnitude,  from  the  size  of  a  pea  to 
that  of  a  man's  hand,  and  are  mostly  or  entirely  of  chert, 
which  approaches  to  calcedony,  and,  when  striped,  to  agate  in 
its  characters.  Perhaps,  much  of  the  gravel  which  covers  the 
country  is  derived  from  the  destruction  of  this  conglomerate 
rock. 

SEA  COAST.— LIMESTONE. 

From  Point  Clifton  to  Cape  Hearne,  the  whole  coast  con- 
sists of  a  formation  of  limestone  precisely  similar  to  that  which 


217 
218 
219 


I 


occurs  on  L^kp.  Wininpor  nnrl  P 


'pnincnla 


Si 


308 


APPENDIX. 


Dolomite,  the  prevailing  rock  in  this  formation,  is  generally 
inlhin  hye  s,  and  has  a  lilht  smoke-gray  colour,  varying  occa 
s^onally  to  ye  lowish  gray,  and  buff.     Its  structure  is  compact, 
Smt  efustre,  except'from  facets  o[dissem.nated  calcspa  . 
It  sometimes  passes  into  milk-white  chert,  which  forms  beds, 
n  some  ptLr^e  dolomite  alternates  with  cellular  limes  one, 
which  is  eenerallv  much  impregnated  with  quartz,  and  has  its 
TavUie  p'oS^^^  with  cryLir  of  that  -jn-al.    No  jamc 
remains  were  observed  in  the  strata,  but  fragments,  evidently 
derived  from  some  beds  of  the  <^«rmatmn,  contained  othoce^^^^ 
tites,  like  those  of  Lake  Huron.     The  «  f^^^^' ^^.?"f„  "'^^^^^^^ 
horizontal,  appear  to  crop  out  towards  t^e  north  and^^^^^^^^ 
forming  precipices  .bout  ten  feet  high,  ^f '"§  I"  *^'^*„^^ 
and  running  like  a  wall  across  the  S?""*^^.  /"  "^fy  Kr'- 
however,  and  particularly  at  Cape  Krusenstern,  the  strata  ter 
SeJi  magnificent  clifrs  upwards  of  t-o  hundred  feet^^^^^^ 
the  country  in  the  interior  re«iaimng  level.     Mount  B^^^^^ 
is  a  small  hill  of  limestone  of  a  ^^^"^^^kable  form   bein|a^^^^ 
tural  fortification  surrounded  by  a  rnoat.     The  coast  line  is 
•  j\,f^^  w  shallow  bavs,  and  sk  rted  by  rocks  and  islands. 
'"Ke  ^hl    ountryocoupied  by  this'formation  the  ground 
is  covered  with  slaty  fragments,  sometimes  to  the  depth  of 
three  feet  or  more.  These  slates  appear  to  have  heen  detached 
tm  tt  stra"  they  eover  by  the  f--ing  of  the  watej,  whjch 
iiK^inuates  itself  betwixt  their  layers.     At  Cape  bexiey,  me 
Sents  of  dolomite  cover  the  ground  to  the  exclusion  of  all 
oThSl    and  in  a  walk  of  several  miles,  I  did  not  see  the 
vXo;  vegetable,  except  a  small  gf  en  scum  upon  some 
Itones  that  formed  the  lining  of  a  pond  ^^^hjiad  dr^ed  u^ 
Tn  this  neiehbourhood  there  are  a  number  of  straight  lurrows 
a  foo  deep,  as  if  a  plough  had  been  drawn  through  the  loose 
fragments      After  many  conjectures  as  to  the  cause  of  this 
Smenonf  i  ascertaiLd  lilat  the  furrows  had  their  origm  m 
fioonrpt!  of  the  strata  lying  underneath.  -n,  .  ^rT<- 

*^  A  the  eo^mencem^ent  of  this  formation  between  Point  Tin- 
nev  and  Point  Clifton,  the  coast  is  low,  and  a  stream  of  con- 
Srabte  magnitude,  named  Croker  River,  together  wn  h  many 
rivulet«  flow  into  tho  sea.  Its  termination  to  the  southwara 
of  C^J;'  Erne  is  also  marked  by  a  low  coast  line,  which  is 
bounded  by  the  bold  rocky  hills  of  Cape  Kendall. 


220 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND    GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


309 


lerally 
w  occa- 
mpact, 
Ic-spar. 
s  beds, 
lestone, 

has  its 
oi^anic 
fidently 
hocera- 
1  nearly 
lid  east, 
rection, 

places, 
rata  ter- 
cet high, 
Barrow 
ng  a  na- 
t  line  is 
lands. 
e  ground 
iepth  of 
ietached 
!r,  which 
xley,  the 
ion  of  all 
t  see  the 
)on  some 
dried  up. 
t  furrows 
the  loose 
e  of  this 
•  origin  in 

»ointTin- 
m  of con- 
I'ith  many 
lOuthward 
,  which  is 


i 


FORMATION  SIMILAR  TO  THAT  AT  CAPE  LYON. 

The  beach  between  Cape  Hearne  and  Cape  Kendall  is  in 
some  places  composed  of  slate-clay,  and  of  a  clay  resembling 
wacke.  Many  large  boulders  of  greenstone  occur  there.  Cape 
Kendall  is  a  projecting  rocky  point,  about  five  or  six  hundred 
feet  high,  and  nearly  precipitous  on  three  sides,  which  are 
washed  by  the  sea.  On  the  north,  its  rocks  consist  entirely  of 
greenstone,  but  on  the  south  side  of  the  Cape  the  greenstone 
in  lofty  columns  reposes  on  thin-slaty  beds  of  fine-grained,  blu- 
ish-gray limestone.  Back's  Inlet  presents  on  each  side  a  suc- 
cession of  lofty  precipitous  headlands,  which  have  the  shape 
termed,  by  seamen, "  the  gunner's  quoin."  Most  of  the  islands 
and  points  near  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  have  this  form, 
and  are  composed  of  trap  rocks.  One  of  Cowper's 
220  islands  on  which  we  landed  consists  of  beds  of  greenstone 
cropping  out  like  the  steps  of  a  stair. 

A  low  ridge  of  greenstone  exists  at  the  mouth  of  the  Copper- 
mine river,  and  from  thence  to  Bloody-fall,  a  distance  of  ten 
miles,  the  country  is  nearly  level,  with  the  exception  of  some 
low  ridges  of  trap  which  run  through  it.  The  channel  of  the 
river  is  sunk  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  below  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  is  bounded  by  clitfs  of  yellowish  white 
sand,  and  sometimes  of  clay,  from  beneath  which,  beds  of 
greenstone  occasionally  crop  out. 

At  Bloody-fall,  a  round-backed  ridge  of  land,  seven  or  eight 
hundred  feet  high,  crosses  the  country.  It  has  a  gentle  ascent 
on  the  north,  but  is  steep  towards  the  south.  The  river  at 
the  fall  makes  its  way  through  a  narrow  gap,  whose  nearly 
precipitous  sides  consist  of  tenacious  clay,  the  bed  and  imme- 
diate borders  of  the  stream  being  formed  of  greenstone.*  From 
thence  to  the  Copper  Mountains,  gently  undulated  plains  oc- 
cur, intersected  in  various  parts  by  precipitous  ridges  of  trap 
rocks,  and  the  river  flows  in  a  narrow  chasm,  sunk  about  one 
hundred  feet  below  their  level.  A  few  miles  above  Bloody- 
fall,  strata  of  light  gray  clay-slate,  dipping  to  the  north-east,  at 
an  angle  of  20°,  support  some  greenstone  cliffs  on  the  banks 


*  In  the  geological  notices  appended  to  the  narrative  of  Captain  Frank- 
lin's Journey  to  the  Coppermine,  I  have  termed  this  rock  a  dark  purplish- 
red  felspar  rock.  On  examining  it  again  on  this  journey,  I  perceived  it  to 
be  a  greenstone,  whose  surfaces  weather  of  a  rusty  brown  colour. 


S 


310 


APPENDIX. 


of  the  river.    From  this  place  to  the  Copper  Mountains 

222  the  rocks  observed  in  the  ravines  were  a  dark  reddish- 

223  brown,  felspathose  sandstone,  and  gray  slate-clay  in  ho- 

224  rizontal  strata,  with  greenstone  rising  in  ridges.     Th^ 
soil  is  sandy,  and  in  many  places  clayey,  with  a  pretty 

close  grassy  sward.  Straggling  spruce  trees  begin  to  skirt  the 
banks  of  the  river  about  eighteen  or  twenty  miles  from  the 
sea. 

COPPER  MOUNTAINS. 

The  Copper  Mountains  rise  perhaps  eight  or  nine  hundred 
feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  at  a  distance,  present  a 
somewhat  soft  outline,  but  on  a  nearer  view  they  appear  to  be 
composed  of  ridges  which  have  a  direction  from  vV.JN.VV.  to 
E  S  E     Many  of  the  ridges  have  precipitous  sides,  and  their 
summits,  which  are  uneven  and  stony,  do  not  rise  more  than 
two  hundred,  or  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  valhes, 
which  are  generally  swampy  and  full  of  sma     lakes.     The 
only  rocks  noticed  when  we  crossed  these  hills  on  the  late 
iourney,  were  clay-slate,  greenstone,  and  dark  red  sandstone, 
sometimes  containing  white  calcareous  concretions,  resembhng 
an  amygdaloidal  rock.     On  our  first  journey  down  the  Copper- 
mine  River,  we  visited  a  valley  where  the  Indians  had  been 
accustomed  to  look  for  native  copper,  and  we  found  there 
many  loose  fragments  of  a  trap  rock,  containing  native  copper, 
ereen  malachite,  copper  glance,  and  iron-shot  copper  green ; 
also  trap  containing  greenish-gray  prehnite  with  disseminated 
native  copper,  which,  in  some  specimens  was  crystallized  m 
rhomboidal  dodecahedrons.     Tabular  fragments  of  prehnite, 
associated  with  calc-spar  and  native  copper,  were  also  picked 
up,  evidently  portions  of  a  vein,  but  we  did  not  discover  the 
vein  in  its  original  repository.     The  trap-rock,  whose  frag- 
ments  strewed  the  valley,  consists  of  felspar,  deeply  coloured 
by  hornblende.     A  few  clumps  of  white  spruce  trees  occur  in 
thevallies  of  the  Copper  Mountains,  but  the  country  is  in 
general  naked.     The  Coppermine  River  makes  a  remarkable 
bend  round  the  end  of  these  hills.  . 

After  quitting  the  Copper  Mountains,  and  passing  a  valley 
occupied  by  a  chain  of  small  lakes  in  lat.  67°  10',  long.  116°  46 
we  travelled  over  a  formation  whose  prevailing  rocks  are  spot- 
ted  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  and  which  forms  the  height 
of  land  betwixt  Bear  Lake  and  the  Coppermine  River.     1  he 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


311 


intainf 
eddish- 

in  ho- 
ThQ 

pretty 
cirt  the 
)m  the 


lundred 
esent  a 
ar  to  be 
^f.W.  to 
td  their 
tre  than 
vallies, 
3.    The 
the  late 
ndstone, 
embling 
Copper- 
ad  been 
id  there 
copper, 
r  green ; 
tminated 
llized  in 
jrehnite, 
0  picked 
over  the 
3se  frag- 
coloured 
occur  in 
try  is  in 
narkable 

a  valley 
11 6°  45', 
are  spot- 
\ie  height 
er.    The 


ascent  to  this  height  from  the  eastward  is  gradual,  but  the  de- 
scent towards  Bear  Lake  is  more  rapid.  The  country  is  broken 
and  hilly,  though  the  height  of  the  hills  above  the  sea  is  per- 
haps inferior  to  that  of  the  Copper  Mountains.  The  vallies 
through  which  the  small  streams  that  water  the  country  flow, 
are  narrow  and  deep,  resembling  ravines,  and  their  sides  are 
Clayey.     1  he  ground  is  strewed  with  gravel. 

The  sandstone  has  very  generally  a  purplish  colour,  with 
gray  spots  of  various  magnitudes.  It  is  finegrained,  hard, 
Has  a  somewhat  vitreous  lustre,  and  contains  little  or  no  dis- 
seminated mica. 

The  conglomerate  consists  of  oval  pebbles  of  white  quartz, 
sometimes  of  very  considerable  magnitude,  imbedded  in  an 
iron-shot  cement.  Many  of  the  pebbles  appear  as  if  they  had 
been  broken  and  firmly  re-united  again.  The  conglomerate 
passes  into  a  coarse  sandstone. 

Porphyry  and  granite  form  hills  amongst  the  sandstone 

The  porphyry  has  a  compact  basis,  like  hornstone,  of  a  dull 
brown  colour,  which  contains  imbedded  crystals  of  felspar 
and  quartz,  and  occasionally  of  augite.  It  forms  some  dome- 
shaped  apd  short  conical  hills. 

The  granite  is  disposed  in  oblong  ridges,  with  small  mural 
precipices.  It  has,  generally,  a  flesh-red  colour,  and  contains 
some  specks  of  augite,  but  little  or  no  mica.  The  granite  and 
porphyry  were  observed  only  on  the  east  side  of  the  height  of 
land,  the  brow  of  which,  and  its  whole  western  declivity,  is 
formed  of  sandstone.  Boulders  of  granite  and  porphyry,  pre- 
cisely similar  to  the  varieties  which  occur  in  situ  on  the  height 
ot  land,  are  common  on  the  beach  at  Fort  FrankHn,  and  on 
the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie  above  Bear  Lake. 

To  the  westward  of  the  height  of  land,  the  country  on  the 
banks  of  Dease  River  is  more  level,  and  few  rocks  in  situ 
were  seen,  until  within  five  or  six  miles  of  Bear  Lake,  where 
the  streani  flows  through  a  chasm,  whose  sides  are  composed 
at  a  sott,  fine-grainsd  red  sandstone,  like  that  which  occurs  in 
the  vale  of  Dumfries,  in  Scotland.  Several  ravines  here  have 
their  sides  composed  of  fine  sand,  inclosing  fracments  of  soft 
sandstone. 

About  three  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Dease  River  we 
came  to  a  limestone  formation,  which  has  been  already  no- 
ticed in  the  account  of  the  geological  structure  of  the  shores 
ofGreat  Bear  Lake. 


3)3 


APPENDIX. 


11 


EASTERN  CHAIN  OF  PRIMITIVE  ROCKS. 

The  orecedins  part  of  the  paper  describing  the  rock  forma- 
tions which  we?l  noticed  on  the  route  of  'he  ^P^d.t.on  from 
Great  SlLve  Lake  down  the  Mackenzie  along  the  shores  of  the 
Aretic  Sea  the  Coppermine,  Great  Bear  Lake,  and  Great  Bear 
RWer  being  a  distance  of  three  thousand  n-iles,  I  shalU  by 
way  if  supplement,  mention  very  bneliy  some  of  the  more 

'"The'tetTSve  to  speak  of  is  the  chain  of  primitive  rocks 
to  whioM  hive'alludeS  in  page  289,  as  extending  for  a  very 

KKrts  '^.h-l^HHSSs;: 

Dr.  Biesby,  in  hia  account  of  the  geology  ot  {;'a^e  Huroi  y  ^ 
that  "The  primitive  rocks  on  the  northern  shores  of  that  lake 
that     Y     pnnimv  southern  portion,  ex- 

are  part  «f  \^,f„^Xmptrdly  from  the  north  and  east  of 
tendmg  probably  ""'"^/^'^P'  'lone  the  northern  shores  of 
Lake  Winipeg,  P^f^^^^^^.^^^Se    and  after  forming  the 

accurate  details  ot  tne  jormaiuji  degrees  farther  to 

!■f^t^triXetr^lC'f  le  through  the  more 
northerly  parts  of  the  Am;riean  c°°U^^^^^^^  „,;;„,, 


% 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


313 


forma- 
n  from 
I  of  the 
it  Bear 
lall,  by 
J  more 

B  rocks 
a  very 
5  in  the 
Chain. 
m  says, 
lat  lake     , 
ion,  ex- 
l  east  of 
lores  of 
ling  the 
)f  Lake 
of  New 
louthern 
;  further 
eaks,  al- 
Winipeg 
ogist  has 
ting  and 
:he  great 
arther  to 
eological 
1  the  Ap- 
journey. 
joundary 
he  more 

s  original 
■  quarters 
he  secon- 
i^inipeg  is 
is  bound- 
ostly  gra- 
jd  of  hori- 


zontal limestone  strata.  The  western  boundary  of  the  pri- 
mitive rocks,  extending  on  this  lake  about  two  hundred  and 
eighty  miles,  has  nearly  a  north-north-west  direction.  From 
Norway  Point,  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  to  Isle  a  la  Crosse, 
a  distance  of  four  hundred  and  twenty  miles  in  a  straight  line, 
the  boundary  has  a  west-north-west  direction.  For  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles  from  Isle  a  la  Crosse  to  Athabasca  Lake, 
the  course  of  the  primitive  rocks  is  unknown  to  me ;  but  from 
Athabasca  Lake  to  M'Tavish's  Bay,  in  Great  Bear  Lake,  a 
distance  of  five  hundred  miles,  their  western  edge  runs  about 
north-west-by-west,  and  is  marked  by  the  Slave  River,  a  deep 
inlet  on  the  north  side  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  a  chain  of 
fivers  and  lakes,  (including  great  Marten  Lake,)  which  dis- 
chai^e  themselves  into  that  inlet. 

.  Captain  Franklin  on  his  voyage  crossed  this  primitive  chain 
nearly  at  right  angles  to  its  line  of  direction,  in  proceeding 
from  Hudson's  Bay  to  Lake  Winipeg — it  was  there  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles  wide. 

The  hills  composing  the  chain  are  of  small  elevation,  none 
of  them  rising  much  above  the  surrounding  country.  They 
have  mostly  rounded  summits,  and  they  do  not  form  continu- 
ous ridges ;  but  are  detached  from  each  other  by  vallies  of 
various  breadth,  though  generally  narrow,  and  very  seldom 
level.  The  sides  of  the  hills  are  steep,  often  precipitous.  When 
the  vallies  are  of  considerable  extent,  they  are  almost  invaria- 
bly occupied  by  a  lake,  the  proportion  of  water  in  this  primi- 
tive district  being  very  great ;  from  the  top  of  the  highest  hill 
on  the  Hill  River,  which  has  not  a  greater  altitude  than  six 
hundred  feet,  thirty-six  lakes  are  said  to  be  visible.  The  small 
elevation  of  the  chain  may  be  inferred  from  an  examination  of 
the  map,  which  shows  that  it  is  crossed  by  several  rivers,  that 
rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  most  considerable  of  which 
are  the  Churchill  and  the  Saskatchewan,  or  Nelson  River. 
These  great  streams  have,  for  many  hundred  miles  from  their 
origin,  the  ordinary  appearance  of  rivers,  in  being  bounded  by 
continuous  parallel  banks ;  but  on  entering  the  primitive  dis- 
trict, they  present  chains  of  lake-like  dilatations,  which  are 
full  of  islands,  and  have  a  very  irregular  outline.  Many  of 
the  numerous  arms  of  these  expansions  wind  for  miles  through 
the  neighbouring  country,  and  the  whole  district  bears  a  strik- 
ing resemblance,  in  the  manner  in  which  it  is  intersected  by 
water,  to  the  coast  of  Norway  and  the  adjoining  part  of  Swe- 
den. The  successive  dilatations  of  the  rivers  have  scarcely 
any  current,  but  are  connected  to  each  other  by  one  or  more 

40 


314 


APPENDIX. 


.traits  in  which  the  waterK^ourac  is  more  or  ^^ohiim^^^ 
S;and  the  stream  is  very  t-bulent  and  njpid^    The  mo^ 

rocks. 


LIMESTONE  OF  LAKE  WINIPEG. 

To  Ihe  westward  of  the  chain  of  V^?!^ll'^l^'^J. 
great  part,  if  not  through  the  whole  of  its  coarae,  he.  an  ex 

*X''Bi±"t'  t'SX'STr^nUction.,  hu  deacrihed. 
i„  deJ,1he'^toes*L  of  lIico  Hu«.n,  »-^'J^-^^^. 

'fer ..  the'cavernous  and  b't^^tUhTta  E^t^  c»S^t^ 
nac  to  the  magnesian  breccia,  whictt  w  in  ^J?8^  ,        i^    ^ 

S  the  red  Irl^  «W'^**« 'rrorrTemMn^  ftM 
the  northern  isl«,  he  c.n,.de«  as  mo^^^bta^  , 

known  formation  «  ""*.'«y',i"  °"g£,„  fte  remarkable  ape- 

^TS^iiSr-dij^^^^^^^^^ 

t^»r?;  Ja^^.e  tt^  l^.S^"h^-Te 
ralogical  characters,  and  in  containing  .j^ 

-^tXlToftelitt^/^^^^ 

tion  of  it,  however,  .a  ""£"/=.*' »"?Jr*"S  i„to  a  beantifol 
.lightly  splintery  f^^J^";  T^,' ^TlffZof  long,  narrow 
ch,na.hke  O^^J^^^vtS"  which  a-'-d.  aometim^.  ^«. 

don,  exceed'? fl^n  ^^'^^Z^^'^S^i^'^^^"'^^' 
Klatv      The  arenacious  and  cherty  l^^^^^?\r*^  r^J     The 

tX  imc  bed;  »»e«r  ^itwte  mlTwWchis  n.^ 
.ofter  kind,  weatherread.ly  mto  a  ^h  ^  marl,  wh.ch^  ^^^^^ 

by  the  lesidenls  to  wniiewaBri  m^.r  fiousi— 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  GEOLOGICAL  NOTICES. 


Sift: 


si^e  surfaces  of  the  strata  were  exposed,  as  in  the  channels  of 
oivers,  they  were  observed  to  be  traversed  by  rents  crossing 
each  other  at  various  angles.  The  larger  rents,  which  were 
sometimes  two  yards  or  more  in  width,  were,  however,  gene- 
rally parallel  to  each  other  for  a  considerable  distance. 

Professor  Jameson  enumerates   terebratulce,  orthoceratites, 
encnmhs,  caryophyllita,  and  lingula,  as  the  organic  remains  in 
the  specimens  brought  home  by  Captain  Franklin  on  his  first 
expedition.     Mr.  Stokes  and  Mr.  James  De  Carle  Sowerby 
have  examined  those  which  we  procured  on  the  last  expedi- 
tion, and  found  amongst  them  terebratuHtes,  spirifers,  maclit- 
ntea,  and  corallines.     The  maclurites  belonging  to  the  same 
species,  with  specimens  from  Lakes  Erie  and  Huron,  and  also 
Irom  Igloohk,  are  perhaps  referrible  to  the  Maclurea  magna  of 
Le  Sueur.    Mr.  Sowerby  determined  a  shell,  occurring  in  great 
1015    abundance  in  the  strata  at  Cumberland-house,  about 
1019    ?"®  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  westward  of 
Lake  Winipeg,  to  be  the  Pentamerus  Ayhsfordii. 
The  extent  to  the  westward  of  the  limestone  deposit  of 
Lake  Winipeg  is  not  well  known  to  me ;  but  I  have  traced  it 
as  far  up  the  Saskatchewan  as  Carlton  House,  and  its  breadth 
there  is  at  least  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles.  For  about  one 
hundred  miles  below  Carlton  House,  the  river  Saskatchewan 
flows  betwixt  banks  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet  in  height, 
consisting  of  clay  or  sand,  and  the  beds  of  limestone  are  ex- 
posed m  very  few  places.    The  plains  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Carlton  abound  in  small  lakes,  some  of  which  are  salt.  The 
country  which  the  Saskatchewan  waters  for  one  hundred  and 
ninety  miles  before  it  enters  Lake  Winipeg,  is  of  a  different 
kind.     It  is  stiU  more  flat  than  that  about  Carlton,  and  is  so 
little  raised  above  the  level  of  the  river,  that  in  the  spring-floods 
the  whole  is  inundated,  and  in  several  places  the  river  sends 
off  branches  which  reunite  with  it  after  a  course  of  many 
miles.    In  this  quarter  the  soil  is  generally  thin,  and  the  lime- 
stone strata  are  almost  every  where  extensively  exposed.  To 
the  southward  of  Cumberland  House,  the  Basquiau  Hill  has 
considerable  elevation.  I  had  not  an  opportunity  of  visiting  it ; 
but  in  the  flat  limestone  strata,  near  its  foot,  there  are  salt 
springs,  from  which  the  Indians  sometimes  procure  a  consider- 
able quantity  of  salt  by  boiling;  and  there  are  several  sulphu- 
reous springs  within  the  formation. 

I  observed  no  beds  of  conglomerate  in  it,  and  no  sandstone 
associated  with  it ;  but  the  extensive  plains  which  lie  betwixt 


*' 


316 


APPENDIX. 


rorlinn  House  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  sandy,  and  beds! 
?ies,  are  interpoed  b«'''«»r*'>\t7/Xe  wTn '  <=«•  •  "'y  «'•• 


LIMESTONE  OF  THE  ELK  AND  SLAVE  RIVERS. 

-  .  f„„.,.tmr.  1  have  to  mention  is  one  which  ap- 

The  next  fo™ahon  '  "r";^       ,^„  ^,„-^i  by  German 

pe»rs  to  possess  ^-'^"^i  *"  ,*  xTend,  from  the  noith  ride  of, 
geologis  s  to  the  zechstein  the  Clearwater,  Elk,  andl 

the  Methy  ^^"^'"8-P  „  ,L  ,„„th  shore  of  Great  Slave  Lake  I 
Slave  Rivers,  and  aloygjhe  south  *^^^^^^^^    ^  ^^^^  ^^^^ 

'?  "*"  f  of  tt  expedmonTand  is  al«.  very  nearly  that  of  the 
the  route  of  the  ^''P^"'"^ ''.(„„.  primitive  rocks  occur  m 
eastern  boundary  of  the  hmestone^^^P^^^^^ 

Lake  Ma"""^"«''r*?,h.%^vr  River  they  are  separated 
and  on  several  parts  of  the  Sl^ve^  K^^^'  »«y  H      ^^ 

?"^''sb«  Cre%he''sto  ytla'nton  thtiorth-east  s^^ 

'  marly  sandstone.     Extensive  beds  of  stmkstone 

or,rmanv  bcds  of  Hmcstone  containing  fluid  bitu- 

alsooccur,andman    bcdsm  1  ^^^ntity,  in  some 

men  m  cavities.     The  f  ^""™^"  !V"L.^_e  J^  the  rock ;  and 
quarters  as  to  flow  in  strea^^^  ^^  ,, 

.  and  may  be  collected  in  large  quanuUes  by  digging 


1^ 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  AND  OEOLOOICAL  NOTICES. 


317 


A  calcareous  breccia  also  exists  in  various  places,  particu- 
larly on  the  Slave  River.  Springs  depositing  from  their  waters 
sulphur,  and  sulphate  of  lime,  slightly  mixed  with  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  muriate  of  soda,  and  iron,  are  common  and  copious. 
A  few  miles  to  the  westward  of  the  Slave  River,  there  is  a 
ridge  of  bills  several  miles  long,  and  about  two  hundred  feet 
high,  having  several  beds  of  compact,  grayish  gypsum'exposed 
on  its  sides.  From  the  base  of  this  hill  there  issue  seven  or 
eight  very  copious,  and  many  smaller  springs,  whose  waters 
deposit  a  great  quantity  of  very  fine  muriate  of  soda  by  spon- 
taneous evaporation.  The  collected  rivulets  from  these 
springs  form  a  stream  which  is,  at  its  junction  with  the  Slave 
River,  sixty  yards  wide  and  eight  or  ten  feet  deep. 
1  non  f/v  1  ncic  The  organic  remains  in  this  deposit,  accord- 
lu^utoio-ib   .^g  ^  jjg^  j^j^jjy  furnished  by  Mr.  Sowerby, 

consist  of  spirifers^  one  of  which  is  the  spirifer 
1029  to  1032   acuta  J  several  new  terebratulce^  of  which  one 
resembles  the  T.  resupinata^  a  cirrus^  some  cri- 
noidal  remains,  and  corals. 

At  the  union  of  Clearwater  and  Elk  Rivers,  the  limestone 
beds  are  covered  to  the  depth  of  one  hundred  and  tifity  feet 
with  bituminous  shale.    ' 

I  have  stated,  that  on  Slave  River  this  limestone  formation 
succeeds  immediately  to  primitive  rocks,  but  I  am  not  ac- 
quainted with  the  rocks  that  lie  to  the  eastward  of  it  on  the 
Elk  River.  The  traders  report  that  there  are  extensive  depo- 
sits of  sandstone  on  the  eastern  arm  of  the  Athabasca  Lake, 
and,  perhaps,  these  sandstones  extend  nearly  to  Clearwater 
River.  Sand  covers  the  limestone  on  that  river  to  the  depth 
of  eight  or  nine  hundred  feet,  and  the  fragments  of  sandstone 
in  it  are  large,  numerous,  and  not  worn. 

The  quantity  of  gypsum  in  immediate  connection  with  ex- 
tremely copious  and  rich  salt  springs,  and  the  great  abundance 
of  petroleum  in  this  formation,  together  with  the  arenacious, 
sofl,  marly,  and  brecciated  beds  interstratified  with  the  dolo- 
mite, and  above  all,  the  circumstance  of  the  latter  being  by 
far  the  most  common  and  extensive  rock  in  the  deposit,  led  me 
to  think  that  the  limestone  of  the  Elk  and  Slave  Rivers  was 
equivalent  to  the  zechstein  of  the  continental  geologists.  My 
opinion,  however,  on  this  subject  is,  from  a  total  want  of  prac- 
tical acquaintance  with  the  European  rock  formations,  of  lit- 
tle weight;  and  several  eminent  geologists  are,  after  an  exami- 
nation of  the  organic  remains  and  mineralogical  characters  of 
the  specimens  brought  home,  inclined  to  consider  the  forma- 


31 B 


AirilfDIZ. 


% 


tion  as  analogous  to  tbte  carboniferous  or  moantain-limestone 
of  EogliUkd. 

As  to  the  limestone  formation  of  Lake  Winipee,  I  have  no 
doubt  of  its  identity  with  that  occurring  in  the  islancb  at  the 
passage  of  La  Cloche,  in  Lake  Huron,  and  also  with  that  at 
Cape  Parrj  and  at  Cape  Kruaenstern,  on  the  coast  of  the 
Arctic  Sea.  It  is  probable,  also,  that  these  four  deposits 
belong  to  the  same  epoch  with  the  limestone  of  Elk  and  Slave 
Rivers,  although  they  differ  in  containing  little  or  no  petro- 
leum. It  is  proper  to  mention,  however  adverse  it  may  be  to 
the  opinion  1  have  ventured  to  hint  at  above,  of  these  exten- 
sive horizontal  deposits  of  limestone  being  referable  to  the 
zechstein,  that  the  Hmestone  of  Lake  Huron  is  generally  con- 
sidered as  belonging  to  the  mountain-limestone ;  and  Professor 
Jameson,  from  a  review  of  the  organic  remains  occurring  in 
the  Lake  Winipeg  deposit,  considered  that  it  also  belonged  to 
that  formation.  The  formation  of  Cape  Lyon  may  be,  with 
less  danger  of  a  mistake,  referred  to  the  transition  or  moun- 
tain-limestone. 


THE  END. 


>g»a>i/ 


lesione 

tave  no 
I  at  the 
that  at 

of  the 
leposits 
i  Slave 
<  petro- 
y  be  to 

exten- 

to  the 
\y  con- 
ofessor 
rring  in 
nged  to 
e,  with 

moun- 


